UKC

Superb video of Rob Matheson, who's in his mid 70s, checking out the gear on  The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) in preparation for a possible headpoint.

youtube.com/watch?v=c0w33E8WrXw&

Part 1 'Aspirations' has already been mentioned on here  youtube.com/watch?v=VvDyP0xFDGU&

He is hoping to post a third video of the send.

All the other videos on his channel are great too.

Some of the best climbing content on YouTube IMO

And it gives us all hope that we're not completely past it 

Rob is very calm and rational whilst walking us through probably the worst gear I've ever seen. I saw some clips Gresh posted on his IG before watching the full episode and it made me feel a bit sick, seeing so many abysmal pieces placed in quick succession. 

Describing that sideways brass offset as 'fall gear' says it all really. Wouldn't fancy testing it!

What an absolute masterclass in the art of optimizing marginal protection. That´s a brilliant film, not only in its content but because of Rob´s calm, clear and very personal style. I honestly don´t know how he´s able to sleep at night, knowing that he´s going to be attempting that lead sometime in the near future. But I bet he does, like a log, and I wish him all the best for the big day.

See you there next week? 🤣

Love the mix of optimism, blue tack, enthusiasm, sky hooks, duct tape, experience, rotten pegs and talent. 

OMG, that's brill! I don't think I'll ever do any routes where blu-tack forms part of the gear placements :oS

This is just brilliant on so many levels!

Even just driving down there, in the middle of winter, on your own, to abseil in and inspect the route takes bottle in itself, especially knowing what might lie ahead in the future.

And then recording it all on a phone. The best one-man show in town!

That's a first - getting sweaty hands watching a video of somebody just inspecting a route!  

Part 3 will be exciting. 

Glad to see this, I've gone off youtube in the past year as mostly full of shite, but I'll check this out later.

I listened to Rob on the Jam Crack podcast the other week, and it was a great interview.  

"that would calm the nerves" referring to a piece of retreat gear - WHAT!!! - it didn't even calm my nerves just watching him on an ab rope detailing all the gear

That video's brilliant, not just because it shows lots of specialised gear trickery, but because it gives such a great idea of what being on that face and doing the route is like - with greatly increased respect to John Redhead for even seeing that there was a devious line there and also to Andy Pollitt doing the second ascent on-sight!

Excellent! Thanks for posting this.

All these years later I wonder how much greater my climbing achievements might have been had I thought of taking some Blu-Tak with me. Silly me.

I thought the placements he found were all brilliant, and would give a good chance of survival - but I can't imagine how it's possible to hang on long enough to put it all in. Very much looking forward to the next episode, I was worried about the risk but I am reassured having seen this. Same age as Rob, climbing V2 indoors and moaning when it's cold...

I tried to use blu tack with a placement recently. Unfortunately I’d put in my chalk bag and it had lost all it’s stickiness…🤦‍♂️

Truly outstanding, such a great character. I have to say i'm excited with anticipation. Really looking forward to watching part 3, in the near future. I take my hat off to him, and wish him the best on his ascent of a classic sea cliff climb. 

To drive 4 hours and to set this all up and record all on your own takes some competitive drive for anybody. Never mind somebody in their mid 70s 

I saw big Ron down  there ( about the time he did the Cad)and also John Redhead back in the day( abbing snd checking out a route) .  They had teams of people with them.That was when you could get a cup of tea at the lighthouse , which is now automated.

Its a beautiful spot  when  the tide is out And the sea is calm.

But to do all this on your own in Winter  takes a special drive. 

Superb and inspiring. Fingers crossed for him when he does it .
 

A positive move away from Sika at least 👍

Loving this series and looking forward to next ones

Meanwhile 😀

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/hhUa5N39HFI

Imagine doing it on sight then, when you have to look for the placements. Talked to someone on Wednesday who has just done that - he didn't get most of of what Pete found. But still---- either way, onsight or headpoint, amazing outing.

There’s an account of Andy Pollitt’s on sight here -

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_t...

Brilliant reading, and gives a phenomenal account of the task, and his experience. I wonder if the book is still available? 

Punk in the Gym is a brilliant book and it looks like it’s still in stock.

https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/punk-in-the-gym?srsltid=AfmBOorml-P...

There can’t be many people who’ve onsighted it, given how few ascents it actually gets.

I hopefully look forward to enjoying the third episode with sweaty palms even if I know it's all alright (similarly to watching Free Solo).

Yes.

Potentially the third episode will be awesome or there won’t be one at all.

Fingers crossed for Mr Matheson.

Please tell me Rob doesn't speak of "sending" it !

Send not to know for whom the bell tolls!