/ DESTINATION GUIDE: Bouldering in Oukaimeden, Morocco
Dutch climber and local resident Keoma Jacobs reveals all.
Possibly a stretch to say it's maybe the highest bouldering area in the world at 2700m?!
Most of the Mount Evans CO bouldering is at 3600m plus.
Anyone know how much there is to do here for bumblies?
Our group tends to operate at significantly lower grades that most of the routes mentioned in the article (typically 3-5s).
That's an unusual looking bouldering pad in the pic of Tarte Tatain, is it inflatable?
The promo blurb for the guide book says "Oukaimeden Morocco Bouldering has the potential to be the next Rocklands. It is the first bouldering destination in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco. In summary, the guidebook includes 700 problems of which almost 80 problems in the 7th grade, approximately 450 in the 5th and 6th grade and 150 beginner problems ranging between 3 to 4+."
That's a Mad Rock R3, it's stuffed with shredded recycled foam, not inflatable
> The promo blurb for the guide book says "Oukaimeden Morocco Bouldering has the potential to be the next Rocklands."
As an aside, how many more Rocklands are in Africa waiting to be discovered? It's an absolutely huge place and clearly has lots of potential for rock climbing. Whilst the Med seems to be a huge limestone bowl with unending sport climbing, Africa seems to have a lot of granite and sandstone which are pretty good for bouldering (and everything else really).
Can any adventurous pad people enlighten us?
Been there in the winter (Feb) about thirty years ago and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. There was no guide, we had no maps, but just prospected like pioneers, mainly winter climbing some of the bigger peaks. Superb weather all week. The locals were very friendly, but that was obviously before all this Taliban stuff, and all that has since followed to sour relations with the West.
I was out there in December by myself, didn't do any climbing but everyone I meet was friendly and seemed happy for me to be there.
The day the bodies were found I was about 40 miles away (ok on the other side of Toubkal) and I didn't even know what was had happened.
I the only time I felt for my safety was dodging the mopeds in the Medina in Marrakesh.
Looks like the ecology there would be disrupted by a big influx of boulderers.
I recently had the pleasure of traveling to Oukaimeden in Morocco to meet up with an international group of climbers to help develop the boulders in the area.
The picture above is of Keoma, the organiser of the trip, who has been working for a few years to put together a guide book, whilst encouraging climbers from around the world to contribute. He's also built good relationships with local people, and in an area that struggles economically climbers represent another potential source of income for them.
If you have any questions about the climbing in Oukaimeden I'd be happy to answer them if I can.
More pictures from the trip can be seen here: http://imgur.com/a/woObl
my issue has been solved!!
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