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Steve McClure has finally ticked his long-term super project at Malham Cove to establish the UK's first 9b. The line starts up Raindogs 8a, negotiates the crux of Rainshadow 9a, then leads up Batman 9a/+ before finishing up Bat Route 8c. Steve has not yet named the route, but we hope to hear from him shortly to provide more details. Read more
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Absolutely incredible, Stevie Mac is a national treasure. Lets club together for a knighthood
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In reply to UKC News:
Brilliant effort that I have enjoyed following via the evil Facebook from the other side of the world. Congratulations Steve. Delighted of Australia.
Brilliant effort that I have enjoyed following via the evil Facebook from the other side of the world. Congratulations Steve. Delighted of Australia.
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In reply to Brendan:
He should definitely call it Umbrella since it incorporates multiple routes named after rain... Not sure that it 'sounds' like a 9b name though...
He should definitely call it Umbrella since it incorporates multiple routes named after rain... Not sure that it 'sounds' like a 9b name though...
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In reply to UKC News:
The new route goes up Rainshadow etc but the article says it replaces Overshadow, which is in a different place. I'm confused.
The new route goes up Rainshadow etc but the article says it replaces Overshadow, which is in a different place. I'm confused.
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In reply to Jonathan T:
The new route goes up Rainshadow etc but the article says it replaces Overshadow, which is in a different place. I'm confused.
Think you might be miss reading it: -
This new line replaces Steve's previous project, Overshadow 9a+ - which he climbed in 2007 and was later confirmed by Adam Ondra at 'hard 9a+' - as the hardest sport route in the UK.
The new route goes up Rainshadow etc but the article says it replaces Overshadow, which is in a different place. I'm confused.
Think you might be miss reading it: -
This new line replaces Steve's previous project, Overshadow 9a+ - which he climbed in 2007 and was later confirmed by Adam Ondra at 'hard 9a+' - as the hardest sport route in the UK.
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In reply to Brendan:
The main man agrees - Rainman, f9b
https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.c...
> Rainshadow into Batman makes... Rainman?
The main man agrees - Rainman, f9b
https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.c...
Post edited at 16:12
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In reply to UKC News:
How things have changed - I remember doing this (approximately) (or attempting it) when it was an A2/3 called superdirect on rather sketchy bolts. Took us all afternoon to get half way and belay at a large nest of tat, up and a bit right from where Steve is in the photo, whereupon, as it was getting dark, we went down. We would never have dreamed of freeing it (although I did notice one or two potential holds).
Impressive (Steve, not us!). Brilliant.
How things have changed - I remember doing this (approximately) (or attempting it) when it was an A2/3 called superdirect on rather sketchy bolts. Took us all afternoon to get half way and belay at a large nest of tat, up and a bit right from where Steve is in the photo, whereupon, as it was getting dark, we went down. We would never have dreamed of freeing it (although I did notice one or two potential holds).
Impressive (Steve, not us!). Brilliant.
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In reply to pneame:
Reading the interview on the BMC site, seems like one of the peg scars was used as a handhold.
> I remember doing this (approximately) (or attempting it) when it was an A2/3 called superdirect
Reading the interview on the BMC site, seems like one of the peg scars was used as a handhold.
In reply to UKC News:
I was following it on Steve's facebook. I am so bloody pleased it's him who brings 9b to the UK. What an utter hero.
I was following it on Steve's facebook. I am so bloody pleased it's him who brings 9b to the UK. What an utter hero.
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In reply to pneame:
I remember a highly excited Johnny Dawes announcing in the bar at UMIST "Rob Gawthorpe's freed Malham Main Overhang".
We've come a long way.
("We" = climbers in general, rather more than me personally)
I remember a highly excited Johnny Dawes announcing in the bar at UMIST "Rob Gawthorpe's freed Malham Main Overhang".
We've come a long way.
("We" = climbers in general, rather more than me personally)
In reply to UKC News: If only he'd learn to tie his shoelaces up, he'd be an even better climber
In reply to pebbles:
A Hard Rainman's (Not? /) Gonna Fall.... (Bob Dylan)
(With reference to the last move)
A Hard Rainman's (Not? /) Gonna Fall.... (Bob Dylan)
(With reference to the last move)
Post edited at 12:58
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In reply to UKC News:
Remember watching PSYCHE and hearing Dave Birkett saying something along the lines of "he is all on his own in terms of world class british sport climbers. how does he keep going ?" and that was 10 years ago!
Note to self MUST TRY HARDER
Remember watching PSYCHE and hearing Dave Birkett saying something along the lines of "he is all on his own in terms of world class british sport climbers. how does he keep going ?" and that was 10 years ago!
Note to self MUST TRY HARDER
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In reply to RupertD:
Sorry, I'm not that well informed. running out of name options for the next route, but I like "A Hard Rain" which is what we experienced this last few days!
Sorry, I'm not that well informed. running out of name options for the next route, but I like "A Hard Rain" which is what we experienced this last few days!
In reply to SuperLee1985:
Pretty sure it does. How many in the world have climbed that grade? Can't be much more than 5?
> Does this also make him the first Brit to climb 9B?
Pretty sure it does. How many in the world have climbed that grade? Can't be much more than 5?
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I suspect it'll be in double figures by now. But still a pretty elite club.
> How many in the world have climbed that grade? Can't be much more than 5?
I suspect it'll be in double figures by now. But still a pretty elite club.
In reply to Sean Kelly:
I really liked The Easy Easy. Very understated - very British. A bit like "Slab and Crack" but with an even bigger contrast.
But Rainman is ok too.
I really liked The Easy Easy. Very understated - very British. A bit like "Slab and Crack" but with an even bigger contrast.
But Rainman is ok too.
In reply to Sean Kelly:
I think you may be right. The Superdirectissima (A2)#overview
Although there was this: The Directissima (A2)
Which confuses me, as I have absolutely no idea what any of the modern routes are or how they relate to these.
> Wasn't it Superdirectissima?
I think you may be right. The Superdirectissima (A2)#overview
Although there was this: The Directissima (A2)
Which confuses me, as I have absolutely no idea what any of the modern routes are or how they relate to these.
In reply to pneame: I thought Superdirectissima was superseded by The Groove and Free & Easy. Directissima was to the left of this although where it went in respect of today's routes I've no idea. I've got some B&W photos from 83 of a mate leading the pitch from the catwalk, I'll see if I can equate Steve's positions to that.
In reply to Michael Hood:
The logbook links provided by pneame provide pretty accurate descriptions of the original aid bolt routes as far as I can recall.
Surprising how few folk have logged them as they were fairly popular back in the day.
A good practice ground for learning how to move efficiently on fixed gear.
> I thought Superdirectissima was superseded by The Groove and Free & Easy. Directissima was to the left of this although where it went in respect of today's routes I've no idea. I've got some B&W photos from 83 of a mate leading the pitch from the catwalk, I'll see if I can equate Steve's positions to that.
The logbook links provided by pneame provide pretty accurate descriptions of the original aid bolt routes as far as I can recall.
Surprising how few folk have logged them as they were fairly popular back in the day.
A good practice ground for learning how to move efficiently on fixed gear.
In reply to jon:
I'm thinking my route follows exactly where the aid line went, the 'new' section at least. Rainshadow crosses the bulge just to the left of some old bolts, and then goes left, my new route follows that and moves slightly right to then climb right over a line of old aluminium bolts, about a meter or even less apart. Some are totally shot, but some can still take my weight no problem. Though I'd not like to lead just on them!!
I'm thinking my route follows exactly where the aid line went, the 'new' section at least. Rainshadow crosses the bulge just to the left of some old bolts, and then goes left, my new route follows that and moves slightly right to then climb right over a line of old aluminium bolts, about a meter or even less apart. Some are totally shot, but some can still take my weight no problem. Though I'd not like to lead just on them!!
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In reply to ste mac:
The rock is probably easier to recognise in this one (I assume it's the same route): https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=138567 although I appreciate it is low down.
I'd say the aluminium hangers you refer to are maybe a slightly later addition. My recollection is a mixture of occasional rusty homemade hangers and the odd old coach bolt (maybe being generous there) with a bit of tat tied around it. I've no idea where the route finished but we must have topped out somewhere as I have a vivid memory of walking back down in the dark, to the clanking of aluminium etrier rungs.
The rock is probably easier to recognise in this one (I assume it's the same route): https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=138567 although I appreciate it is low down.
I'd say the aluminium hangers you refer to are maybe a slightly later addition. My recollection is a mixture of occasional rusty homemade hangers and the odd old coach bolt (maybe being generous there) with a bit of tat tied around it. I've no idea where the route finished but we must have topped out somewhere as I have a vivid memory of walking back down in the dark, to the clanking of aluminium etrier rungs.
In reply to jon:
I'm guessing that picture is just to the right of Raindogs start. I'll have a look when I'm there for the old studs. Its interesting to imagine the history of the place, and forging up there on dodgy bits of tat. Bet it was well exciting!!
And you must have finished on the big ledge, followed by a scary walk off leftwards, particularly in the dark, though after what you'd done it wouldn't be scary at all!!
I'm guessing that picture is just to the right of Raindogs start. I'll have a look when I'm there for the old studs. Its interesting to imagine the history of the place, and forging up there on dodgy bits of tat. Bet it was well exciting!!
And you must have finished on the big ledge, followed by a scary walk off leftwards, particularly in the dark, though after what you'd done it wouldn't be scary at all!!
In reply to ste mac: There was a second pitch from the tree to the top. I don't remember the bolts being really scary back in the early 80s but maybe we were young and had no judgement. As long as they held bodyweight we were happy
In reply to Michael Hood:
Not sure where we finished but the ledge does sort of ring a bell, but it was a long time ago. I think that if you didn't think the bolts were too scary then they were probably the ones that Steve's referring to and not the earlier ones - I remember being scared shitless all day! Funny how one's memory retains the odd random image. I'm seeing flimsy rusty screws/bolts screwed into wooden rawl plugs driven into tiny holes of unknown depth, sometimes adorned with a hanger of sorts, sometimes a bit of tat... Maybe there was other better stuff from time to time, but that's my memory of them. Interestingly my diary has Superdirect as the route, though looking at the database it seems more like Directissima?
Not sure where we finished but the ledge does sort of ring a bell, but it was a long time ago. I think that if you didn't think the bolts were too scary then they were probably the ones that Steve's referring to and not the earlier ones - I remember being scared shitless all day! Funny how one's memory retains the odd random image. I'm seeing flimsy rusty screws/bolts screwed into wooden rawl plugs driven into tiny holes of unknown depth, sometimes adorned with a hanger of sorts, sometimes a bit of tat... Maybe there was other better stuff from time to time, but that's my memory of them. Interestingly my diary has Superdirect as the route, though looking at the database it seems more like Directissima?
In reply to jon:
I've just uploaded a picture of my mate on the upper wall of the main pitch of The Directissima in 1983, so those who recognise every bulge might be able to see where it goes in relation to today's routes.
Other photos I've got show that we started up the line of what is now Chiselling the Dragon (7c), which ties in with the "the second pitch was straightened out" description in The Directissima (A2). My log notes were "A very enjoyable and exposed route that didn't seem very difficult". I remember some of them required nut wires looping over the bolts (no hangers) but I've not noted anything special so they must have felt ok (*). I'm guessing that your ascent was earlier than 1983 so maybe "your" bolts had been replaced.
The last pitch to the top of the cove must have gone somewhere in the area where Local Hero (7c+) and Niagara (8a+) are.
* - my log notes "some very manky kit" on Kyrie Eleison (A1) later that year (wasn't only A1 back then). I remember that several bolts in a row across the roof were too thin to dare putting a crab in so we used larks-footed tape. I was worried that me (as 2nd) being a stone heavier might be the final straw, and remember seeing several shiny new bolts in a row a few weeks later - that must having been an exciting unzipping
I've just uploaded a picture of my mate on the upper wall of the main pitch of The Directissima in 1983, so those who recognise every bulge might be able to see where it goes in relation to today's routes.
Other photos I've got show that we started up the line of what is now Chiselling the Dragon (7c), which ties in with the "the second pitch was straightened out" description in The Directissima (A2). My log notes were "A very enjoyable and exposed route that didn't seem very difficult". I remember some of them required nut wires looping over the bolts (no hangers) but I've not noted anything special so they must have felt ok (*). I'm guessing that your ascent was earlier than 1983 so maybe "your" bolts had been replaced.
The last pitch to the top of the cove must have gone somewhere in the area where Local Hero (7c+) and Niagara (8a+) are.
* - my log notes "some very manky kit" on Kyrie Eleison (A1) later that year (wasn't only A1 back then). I remember that several bolts in a row across the roof were too thin to dare putting a crab in so we used larks-footed tape. I was worried that me (as 2nd) being a stone heavier might be the final straw, and remember seeing several shiny new bolts in a row a few weeks later - that must having been an exciting unzipping
Post edited at 19:08
In reply to jon:
My memory seems to have kicked into action - the route up the middle was definitely Superdirect / Superdirectissima,
The Direct / Directissima started a little left and headed up to the right-hand end of the ledge (with the tree) in the middle that bisects the two wings and runs out in the middle of the cove - that was a more successful foray a year or so later (and was considerably less scary).
I'm glad I've sorted that out! Now I need to try and remember where the one or two pictures are in my lamentably badly sorted slides.
As Steve says in his interview - Malham really is a special place - both wonderfully bucolic and downright intimidating at the same time. It's where Mrs pneame discovered nettles and discovered the world of horticultural knowledge in yours truly as I presented some dock leaves "here rub these on your arm..."
My memory seems to have kicked into action - the route up the middle was definitely Superdirect / Superdirectissima,
The Direct / Directissima started a little left and headed up to the right-hand end of the ledge (with the tree) in the middle that bisects the two wings and runs out in the middle of the cove - that was a more successful foray a year or so later (and was considerably less scary).
I'm glad I've sorted that out! Now I need to try and remember where the one or two pictures are in my lamentably badly sorted slides.
As Steve says in his interview - Malham really is a special place - both wonderfully bucolic and downright intimidating at the same time. It's where Mrs pneame discovered nettles and discovered the world of horticultural knowledge in yours truly as I presented some dock leaves "here rub these on your arm..."
In reply to Michael Hood:
I must have been on it just after you. Early to mid 80s? On of those wafer thin hangers broke just as I was transferring my weight onto it, seconding, leaving me hanging off a similar one with a large gap to the next "intact" one. My mate, fearing for his gear, suggested tying off the remains of a hanger with a sling and proceeding, in the hope that when my sling slipped off, or the skimpy remains broke, the next one - or six - wouldn't zipper and splatter me into the cave floor or against the opposite wall. I declined, politely, lowered off the "bolt" I was on very, very carefully and bought him some new krabs.
That was the beginning and the end of my aid climbing career.
> my log notes "some very manky kit" on Kyrie Eleison (A1) later that year (wasn't only A1 back then). I remember that several bolts in a row across the roof were too thin to dare putting a crab in so we used larks-footed tape. I was worried that me (as 2nd) being a stone heavier might be the final straw, and remember seeing several shiny new bolts in a row a few weeks later - that must having been an exciting unzipping
I must have been on it just after you. Early to mid 80s? On of those wafer thin hangers broke just as I was transferring my weight onto it, seconding, leaving me hanging off a similar one with a large gap to the next "intact" one. My mate, fearing for his gear, suggested tying off the remains of a hanger with a sling and proceeding, in the hope that when my sling slipped off, or the skimpy remains broke, the next one - or six - wouldn't zipper and splatter me into the cave floor or against the opposite wall. I declined, politely, lowered off the "bolt" I was on very, very carefully and bought him some new krabs.
That was the beginning and the end of my aid climbing career.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Maybe 15:
Sachi Amma
Dani Andrada
Pirmin Bertle
Seb Bouin
Bernabe Fernandez
Stefano Ghisolfi
Edu Marin
Steve McClure
Alex Megos
Magnus Midtboe
Adam Ondra
Ethan Pringle
Fred Rouhling
Jakob Schubert
Chris Sharma
Maybe 15:
Sachi Amma
Dani Andrada
Pirmin Bertle
Seb Bouin
Bernabe Fernandez
Stefano Ghisolfi
Edu Marin
Steve McClure
Alex Megos
Magnus Midtboe
Adam Ondra
Ethan Pringle
Fred Rouhling
Jakob Schubert
Chris Sharma
Post edited at 18:17
In reply to Michael Gordon:
It may not be quite that many. At least two of those names are questioned by some, and several others claim to 9b are boulder-route link ups so again, are questioned.
It may not be quite that many. At least two of those names are questioned by some, and several others claim to 9b are boulder-route link ups so again, are questioned.
In reply to UKC News:
hard core ! ... though violent new bread still has no second ascent so could it be 9b
hard core ! ... though violent new bread still has no second ascent so could it be 9b
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