UKC

FEATURE: Finding The Right Angle

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 UKC Articles 26 Aug 2016
Iain Peters and Right Angle Cliff, 3 kbToday marks the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Right Angle HS at Gurnard's Head, Cornwall by Iain Peters and John Gerber. UKC user James Mann has submitted a fantastic photo feature and video interview to commemorate the event. We've been told that the full film has been kept secret from Iain - we hope it brings him many happy memories as he celebrates today!

Iain Peters and Right Angle; a personal perspective on West Penwith. On 26th of August 1966, Iain Peters and John Gerber set out along the West Penwith coast towards the Gurnard's Head with the intention of making the first ascent of 'the extreme to end all extremes.'



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In reply to UKC Articles:

Great film, great bloke, and a great route too.

I did the route on 18th May 2011. I never usually remember dates, but it was significant: firstly because it was my climbing partner's birthday and secondly because the route was just so bloody good! I just remember repeating the word 'wow' over and over again in the days that followed - that's only happened a few times*.

In terms of atmosphere and exposure I can think of few routes that match at ANY grade, let alone Hard Severe!!


* I did the same after doing Darkinbad + Black Magic over at Pentire, as their combined quality seemed to blow a fuse in my brain that left me incapable of anything other than repeating that same, rather unimaginative, monosyllable: wow...
 leewil86 26 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great video! Love films like this well done guys
 BALD EAGLE 26 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Yeah a top video of a top guy and the route is pretty darn amazing as well so great job James!
Hope to see you guys in the Count House later!
Cheers
Dave
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks, really enjoyed the film, good interview and what an excellent looking route for hard severe.
 Mick Ward 26 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Superb article, brilliant film.

Happy anniversary!

Mick
 AP Melbourne 27 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Marvelous film. Thanks.
AP.
 dominic lee 27 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

A wonderful and memorable route in a spectacular location.
 Mick Ward 27 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Iain's recollections of youthful high jinks in West Penwith pubs resonated guiltily with me. A few years later, I had similar episodes in Bradford. Probably the imperatives troubling us were similar. Unfortunately one can't undo the past. You can only learn from it, express your regret, make your amends, put back into society. It seems that, with 'Right Angle', Iain has made his amends in an exemplary fashion, giving so much pleasure to so many thousands of climbers.

Unfortunately as I staggered along Bradford back streets, much the worse for wear, I never encountered any five star classics! The karmic debt's taking rather longer to repay.

And a courteous admission from Ken of, 'One of the few mistakes in judgement I ever made'. Ken didn't have to proffer many such admissions because he so rarely made errors of judgement.

Mick

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great short film. More of these please.
 aln 27 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good w3e film
 Dr_C 28 Aug 2016
In reply to David Wynne:

Yep wonderful. And the lack of irritating background music was such a Joy - I just like to listen to the person talk without distraction.
In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant. I climbed right angle about 25 years ago. I'm going to have to revisit after watching that.
 james mann 28 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

I am pleased that people enjoyed the little film and article. The fiftieth was fantastic fun with a small blue Camalot as the only casualty. Iain, belayed by his son, led the top pitch most ethically, clipping only one runner next to the rusted peg stump at around halfway. Pat Littlejohn even had a zip across accompanied by Dave Garner and Toni Carver before shooting off to try a couple of new routes on the end of Gurnards Head. Right Angle was cruised by teams varying in age from 12 to late sixties with a pint at the Gurnards Head Hotel and a wonderful barbecue at the count house after which included a Peters versus Littlejohn first ascent top trumps. I'll let you guess who won that. Dave Linnet filmed the day so watch this space for a little film of the day. Iain is about to set off for pastures new in Germany. I for one will miss his company dearly, although I wouldn't tell the old goat that. Somehow I don't think he's quite ready to be put out to grass yet!

James
 Mick Ward 29 Aug 2016
In reply to james mann:

> Dave Linnet filmed the day so watch this space for a little film of the day.

Will very much look forward to this. Glad it was such a great day for everyone.

Mick

 BALD EAGLE 30 Aug 2016
In reply to james mann:

Hey James
It was great to meet you, Saturday was a most excellent day and a maa-hoosive thanks to you, Tom and the guys for rigging the route and some stripping action at the end of the day...
The whole weekend was a blast and having had a quick look at some of the footage it is looking pretty cool, especially the aerial footage courtesy of Arnie, so hopefully a wee video (Fifty shades of Right Angle?) as a nice memento of the day in a couple of months time so watch this space! Once I have finished off the other two videos which are currently being cobbled together on the cobbling machine...
Cheers
Dave
In reply to UKC Articles:

Absolutely loved this... West Pentire climbing really is special and my head is full of memories and dreams of times i've been lucky enough to climb those cliffs. Cornwall on a warm day as a climber is as close to heaven as we're likely to get and Right Angle is right up there in the top entries on the list.

I regularly look back at the first time i stood on that final belay with the waves licking my feet and the cave to the right booming feeling immensely privileged to be in that magical spot, having my own little experience with a mate, being temporarily tolerated by the unseeing, uncaring sea with the tidal clock ticking.

Can there be any more to life than that? Magic.
 Bill Birkett 30 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great video piece, about real climbing and climbers. Very special.
 Sean Kelly 02 Sep 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

I climbed this route on the BMC's International Meet a couple of years back, and Iain was in charge of the kitchen for the week. I teamed up with Alberto Rampini from Aosta and experienced very heavy seas as we traversed across to the big corner. Indeed the noise from crashing waves & spray entering the zawn was like a German '88' blasting us every few seconds. It all made for a totally memorable experience, and a top 5 HS!
 SATTY 24 Oct 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

did this route in the 70s with pal dave ludlam remeber it as the besdt route did that holiday,really good position when you think it should be e2 but keeps providing good holds
ace

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