UKC

NEWSFLASH: First Repeat of Burden of Dreams 9A by Will Bosi

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 UKC News 14 Apr 2023

Will Bosi has made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, the world's first 9A boulder in Lappnor, east of Helsinki, Finland. Initially known as the Lappnor Project, Nalle climbed the line in 2016 to establish the world's hardest boulder problem. Will has confirmed the grade at 9A/V17.

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 deacondeacon 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Rad!

1
 robertmichaellovell Global Crag Moderator 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Absolutely mega!

 InC 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

The most coveted second ascent in bouldering, Chapeau

In reply to UKC News:

Amazing! Nice one Will!

 Wooj 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Outrageous effort Will. Made my year this has. Come on the Brit’s! 
 

3
 TobyA 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

I told him it would get easier after Finland joined NATO last week - the country is now welcoming allied forces and all that.

Well done Will!

2
 alx 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant! Well done Will!

In reply to UKC News:

Congrats and well done will!!!!

Spectacular!!!! 

 Fellover 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing stuff. I couldn't believe how psyched I was to see the first livestreams, especially when he did all the moves in the first session.

> Hopefully a trip to America to climb out there!

Hoping this means Sleepwalker Sit and Megatron are going to get some attention...

 NickBradley 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Correction needed in the article; he's the third person to climb two 9As, the others being Shawn Raboutou (Alphane and Megatron) and Simon Lorenzi (Soudain Seul and Alphane). 

 Spanish Jack 14 Apr 2023
In reply to NickBradley:

I also hope the grade of Soudain Seul solidifies at 9A. Currently, Will is the second person to have climbed two confirmed 9A boulders.

11
 JLS 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Awsome! Now that's done, he'll be able to concentrate on sending the replica. I expect it'll go quickly with all the training on the real thing over the last few weeks. The worlds first 9A+ perhaps?

Post edited at 13:21
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 Spanish Jack 14 Apr 2023
In reply to Fellover:

Megatron could be well down his street!

 Dale Turrell 14 Apr 2023
In reply to Spanish Jack:

2 people have given Soudain Seul 9A, 2 people have given Burden of Dreams 9A (although Nico Pelorson said he doesn't think SS is 9A). Simon Lorenzi said that he found Soudain Seul a bit harder than Alphane. It's just speculation but if you assume SS isn't confirmed then it throws doubt on Alphane as well, so potentially no one has done 2 confirmed 9As. I personally think it seems like they are all 9As.

As an aside, well done to Will, this is a great time for British bouldering.

Post edited at 13:37
1
 Spanish Jack 14 Apr 2023
In reply to Dale Turrell:

Personally, I would assume Soudeain Seul is 9A. But that is me, Nico Pelorson thought 8C+. Alphane is 9A (soft) in Wills eyes.
I would have thought, it just takes a couple more ascents and the grade of Soudain is more solid, likewise in Alphane. Or is that thinking too conservative?

While your argument is interesting, it only builds on one opinion, that of Simon Lorenzi. OK he is the only one that climbed both. So we could deal with more opinions.

Post edited at 14:05
 InC 14 Apr 2023

I wonder if the UK has anything close to BOD? be cool if it did, maybe Shadowplay? that'd be an interesting livestream for sure!

1
In reply to UKC News:

I wonder if, now he's got the experience of a couple of 9As, whether he still considers Honey Badger 'only' 8C+. 

 bouldery bits 14 Apr 2023
In reply to InC:

> I wonder if the UK has anything close to BOD? be cool if it did, maybe Shadowplay? that'd be an interesting livestream for sure!

Having looked at Shadowplay, I genuinely have no idea how it be possible at all. 

 Mick r 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

sent on Wednesday 12th, reported early Friday 14th. How on earth did he keep that quiet?

 Edshakey 14 Apr 2023
In reply to Mick r:

Shouldn't be too hard given how isolated it is - it's hardly in the middle of Stanage!

1
 TobyA 14 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

"Scottish man" Mr Bosi made it into the sports pages of Helsingin Sanomat, Finland's leading national daily paper. My Finnish isn't good enough to get it all but it definitely mentions it's the world's hardest climbing route! Perhaps it gets into the nuances of bouldering compared to route climbing further into the article, but Finns do tend to get very excited when the country is the best at anything, so perhaps the nuances aren't so important after all!


 deacondeacon 15 Apr 2023
In reply to Edshakey:

> Shouldn't be too hard given how isolated it is - it's hardly in the middle of Stanage!

He was literally livestreaming progress on it two weeks ago 😅 

 Edshakey 15 Apr 2023
In reply to deacondeacon:

True, but then he stopped. All he needs to do to keep it quiet is ask Shawn and the two people videographers to not tell anyone, and it's sorted. Just look at Shawn doing Alphane and Megatron, they weren't publicly known for months!

Post edited at 08:41
 SDM 15 Apr 2023
In reply to Edshakey:

Shawn's ascents were the worst kept secret ever. 

For anyone who wanted to know, the Raboutou family had confirmed both ascents (in as many words) lots of times on social media in the months before they made it "official". 

4
 UKB Shark 15 Apr 2023
In reply to SDM:

Clever you

 Jody 18 Apr 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing, I think with the models of very hard problems, 9A+/9B might be possible.

I was doing other early ascents in the boulder area in Lappnor, and scrambled on top of the BoD boulder before it had been cleaned from moss and wet rock plants . Maybe one of the first 'ascents' of the boulder


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