UKC

The West Country encompasses a number of counties in southwest England, and boasts a multitude of rock types that run from limestone to granite with some shales and slate included in the mix, The landscapes shift from rugged coastlines and idyllic countryside to expansive moorlands and serene river valleys - given all these attributes it comes as no surprise that the region offers an abundance of high-quality trad climbs, making it a haven for teams operating at all grades.

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Thanks for these great suggestions, Mark 🙂.  Any chance of setting up a UKC ticklist for these (though I think I've done most of them already over the years)?

Here you go: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/mark_glaisters_finest_hard_sev...

What a great list. After moving to the UK in 2012 I've ticked a good few of these, as living in Dorset I was hunting out classic routes nearby at a nice grade. Now I've got a few more to try. 

Good list. A few that could have made the cut:

Bard the Bowman (HS 4b) As good as Esgaroth

Pharos (HS 4b)

...One for All (HS 4b) The best HS at Shorny by miles

Crumble (HS 4b) As close to an Avon 'King Line' as you can get

Thank you!!!

I've not climbed much in the SW of England but have done a few on that list, but is my memory failing me - I thought Terrier's Tooth at Chair Ladder was VDiff (I climbed it before the rockfall) ?

Great list Mark and clear that the SW is a mecca for the HS climber looking for quality routes. Think I've done them all save from Devil's Slide, Sinister at Avon Gorge and Never on a Sunday at Chudleigh. 

If you're at Dewerstone ticking off HS routes, Fly on the Wall is well worth doing - the excellent second pitch has exposure totally out of proportion to the size of the climb! And there are some more quality HS's on the Culm  worth adding to a longer list - The Plumed Serpent and Cara the Lascivious Lobster at Dyer's Lookout for e.g. 

Cheers    

Before the rockfall the "normal" way up the vein was originally graded VD IIRC - rather naughty. The 2000 West Cornwall guide (the one with 2 books inside a plastic sleeve) gives it HS 4b which was reasonable as long as you did it late enough so that any salty/slimy stuff had burnt off.

[Offwidth will probably come along and argue that it was worth VS 4b, doesn't really matter - apart from being demised - you could see what you were getting and it wasn't a sandbag at HS 4b]

My own personal favourite must be Diamond Rib at Meadfoot, probably ascended 30+ times, and a lovely crux sequence too.

Was a bit surprised to see left hand route at Wintours in there - ive never seen such polished rock in all my life, but after that bit its an easy and fun romp i suppose.

A bit surprised to see Golden Fleece there as I would not encourage anyone to go to Symond's Yat at the moment.  After a large rockfall in 2023, the Yat has been closed to all climbers.  A recent update suggests that remedial works will take until April 2026.  It is hoped climbing can resume there after that time.
I like, and have done most of , the other suggestions.