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THE LOWDOWN: Ondra gets Overshadow

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 Adam Ondra – tearing up the upper bulges of Overshadow (F9a+), Malham Cove, North Yorkshire, 5 kbIt took two trips and 7 days or so of effort, but now he's bagged it. Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Stevie Mac's Overshadow at Malham.
From Steve's blog: "At last he repeated Overshadow and I think reckoned it was a hard 9a+. 7 days of effort confirmed what I always thought, it's just a...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62235
 JimboWizbo 17 May 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: I wonder if I could do any of the moves if they were in my local bouldering room
 Enty 17 May 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

I think it's fantastic that he's done 9b's in quicker time.

Well done Ste Mac!!!

E
 jacobjlloyd 17 May 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Long awaited news! Wonder what else he is going to get up to while hes here. Good for Ondra, good for Steve Mac, good for british climbing... good news all round!
 Michael Gordon 17 May 2011
In reply to JimboWizbo:

I somewhat doubt it! Doing a move would require you to be able to pull on the holds (don't imagine many of us would have any more luck)
 Andy Farnell 17 May 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: I think it's fabulous that the worlds best climber (on current form) comes to these shores not once, but twice to try the hardest thing we've got. And does it. And confirms the grade. And onsights some of our 'lesser' hard routes. Kudos to Adam for coming over and Steve for the inspiring efforts in putting up Overshadow.

Andy F
 chris_j_s 18 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell:

Totally agree, brilliant and inspiring stuff!

Adam also did Rainshadow yesterday confirming 9a, and slipped off wet holds at the top of Total Eclipse too (after less than an hour working it). He reckoned 8c+/9a for that one.

Steve's the man with the news again.

http://www.steve-mcclure.com/
Kipper 18 May 2011
In reply to chris_j_s:

"Right now, Wednesday morning, he will be at Ravenstor. Its his last day, or morning rather as he has to leave by 9.30am! So that should be enough time for Mutation, or Hubble, or even both………."


 Andy Farnell 18 May 2011
In reply to Kipper: I find it incredible that Ondra's ascents (9a+, 9a and and 8c onsight, plus falling off an 8c+/9a due to wet holds) has received so little coverage and comment on this site.

Andy F
 Andrew Smith 18 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell: Yes it is incredible. I take it an ascent of Total Eclipse would have been the first repeat?
 Wft 18 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell: hopefully they are like me and just lost for words, good effort just doesn't seem to cut it. The wad mold.
 roddersm 18 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell: I agree andy. It's amazing how low key this has all been. The best climber in that planet comes to malham and does the 1st repeat of the hardest route in the country. It seems like an anti-climax after the initial buzz that he was here, I wonder were people expecting the route to be upgraded to 9b?

Anyone hear how he got on at Raven Tor?
In reply to andy farnell:

Don't know if you caught this Andy?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62186

It's been read 14,000 times so the interest is definitely there, I guess there's not a lot to say because everyone just expects him to do this stuff now.
In reply to andy farnell: hopefully they are waiting to talk to him once he has finished his trip to provide an interesting angle and some depth to the facts! Sort of sucks that he did Overshadow and didn't upgrade it, imaagine if he still hadn't linked it! Imagine the speculation!!! But its awesome he has and confirmed it at the grade, just right at the top of the spectrum.

Mcclure is a beast Ondra only knows how hard the next route will be!

DC
 Adam Lincoln 18 May 2011
In reply to roddersm:

> Anyone hear how he got on at Raven Tor?

Not much. What a punter
In reply to roddersm:

>The best climber in that planet comes to malham and does the 1st repeat of the hardest route in the country.

Hmm. I think one might want to wait until VNB was repeated before saying that, perhaps?

What's the story with that, anyway? No-one's interested because it's too hard? Too short? Too eliminate? In some crappy hole in the ground? Or perhaps they are interested and we just don't hear about it.

jcm
 roddersm 18 May 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Ha ha thats rubbish adam, I knew this kid was all hype!
 chris_j_s 18 May 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> What's the story with that, anyway? No-one's interested because it's too hard? Too short? Too eliminate? In some crappy hole in the ground? Or perhaps they are interested and we just don't hear about it.


As far as I'm aware only Steve Dunning has actually worked on it and, I heard the other day, possibly found a better sequence for taller types.

Beyond that Adam Ondra looked at it, thought it looked really hard but clearly wasn't inspired enough to try it.

Dave Macleod has also looked at it and thought the holds looked 'almost invisible' and commented that maybe some 'curious soul' might take it on one day!!

There are plenty of people out there who worship everything Gaskins so it's always possible that other people have tried it too.

I imagine everyone who goes there to climb Militia looks up at it and is tempted to have a feel of those holds!
 richardh 18 May 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

It's short, practically a boulder problem, in a / out of a crappy hole in the ground. It's not in the same ballpark in terms of crag situations, atmosphere or size as any of the others that I can think of 8c+/9a and up in the UK. Whether it's even a route is open for debate.

Separately, I can't believe that anyone would think someone who climbs on quality continental limestone year round would give the G-spot a second glance, let alone be inspired by it.
 Ian Patterson 18 May 2011
In reply to richardh:

Good summary I think, I'm sure it's very hard but also very specialist, and the interest to probably the best climber in world who is crushing routes on some of the best and most impressive limestone crags anywhere must surely be limited.

Awesome performance again by AO and I think its only the fact that expectations are so high that can explain the lack of interest - he's ticked 2 more of the hardest sports route in the country (which have seen almost no other serious attempts since put up), nearly climbed one of the great unknowns from the 90s and done the hardest onsight seen in the UK, all in a week.

He's updated his 8a.nu profile and is very complimentary saying Overshadow is 'at the upper end of the grade for sure' and Rainshadow is 'Honestly one of the best climbs I have done'

Anybody who thinks he isn't setting new standards should look at the list of numbers of 9a and above ascents (and don't forget he's only 18):

1. Adam Ondra - 52
2. Chris Sharma - 28
3. Ramon Julian Puigblanque - 21
4. Dani Andrada - 20
5. Patxi Usobiaga - 16
6. Dave Graham - 11
7. Enzo Oddo - 10
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to richardh)

>
> 1. Adam Ondra - 52
> 2. Chris Sharma - 28
> 3. Ramon Julian Puigblanque - 21
> 4. Dani Andrada - 20
> 5. Patxi Usobiaga - 16
> 6. Dave Graham - 11
> 7. Enzo Oddo - 10

So many of them end in vowels.....

Bulls Cracka
In reply to Bulls Cracka: Close but I think Bullxi Cracka would add yet another grade to your climbing

xyz 19 May 2011
It's interesting looking at his 8a.nu scorecard. Adam on-sighted one 8c and red-pointed a 9a and 9a+ on his brief holiday to the UK, which is totally awe-inspiring. His 8a score however didn't shift an inch (i.e. remained at 14,000). By my reckoning to boost his score he'll have to either on-sight some more 8c+'s and/or red-point more 9b's or harder, which is a pretty sobering thought in itself!
 UKB Shark 19 May 2011
In reply to xyz:By my reckoning to boost his score he'll have to either on-sight some more 8c+'s and/or red-point more 9b's or harder, which is a pretty sobering thought in itself!



Wrong. His top ten score is 4x9b redpoints and 6x8c+ onsights all done in the last 3 months !!! To shift his score he would have to onsight 9a and/or redpoint 9b+. With 9 months in hand I'll take that bet.

 roddersm 19 May 2011
In reply to shark: Sounds like he nearly did Hubble on his 4th day on too! Unbelievable!
 Morgan Woods 19 May 2011
In reply to roddersm:
> (In reply to andy farnell) I agree andy. It's amazing how low key this has all been.

Yes but when there's the "trashing" of Hawkcrag to discuss (700 replies ang going strong) it's understandable.
 GrahamD 19 May 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Hmm. I think one might want to wait until VNB was repeated before saying that, perhaps?

I take it Big Bang is generally considered 'only' 9a even though its also unrepeated ?
xyz 19 May 2011
>
> Wrong. His top ten score is 4x9b redpoints and 6x8c+ onsights all done in the last 3 months !!! To shift his score he would have to onsight 9a and/or redpoint 9b+. With 9 months in hand I'll take that bet.

You're absolutely right, to increase his score he has to push the boundaries of sport-climbing into the unknown by on-sighting 9a or by basically putting up the hardest routes in the world at 9b+ or more. beggars belief, that score of 14,000 may sit for a while!
 JSA 19 May 2011
In reply to xyz:

How exactly do the scores work?
 Keendan 19 May 2011
In reply to xyz:

So is OS 8c+ equal scoring to redpoint 9b for 8a.nu?
If someone redpointed 10 9bs would they score the same?
xyz 19 May 2011
In reply to JSA:
> (In reply to Lee Proctor)
>
> How exactly do the scores work?

Basically an on-sight gives you the same points (minus five) as a red-point three grades harder. For example you get 1000 for red-pointing an 8a and 995 for on-sighting a 7b+. Each grade increments by 50. A flash gives you one grade (plus three) so flashing a 7c+ equates to 1003, see table. The scoring system considers only your top ten hardest routes in any 12 month period. Its all a bit anal really but if you're a bit of a nerd, like me, you kinds of get into it.

R/P O/S F
8a+ 1050 1195 1103
8a 1000 1145 1053
7c+ 950 1095 1003
7c 900 1045 953
7b+ 850 995 903
7b 800 945 853
7a+ 750 895 803
7a 700 845 753
6c+ 650 795 703
6c 600 745 653
 iceaxejuggler 20 May 2011
In reply to xyz:

Adam's comments on the routes now on 8a nu:

Rainshadow = "Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished ***"

Overshadow - "4 days this year, 3 day last year, it was already turning out into the mental war, so many slipped feet and mistakes, the send felt quite easy in the end, but the upper end of the grade for sure. Props to Steve"
 Pino 20 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell: Pride hurt, envy....
 Quiddity 20 May 2011
In reply to iceaxejuggler:

Overshadow top end 9a+, and Raindogs one of the best routes, we can infer, in the world. How awesome is that? Well done Steve and well done Adam.

Anyone else intruigued by his comments on Total Eclipse? Looks like it is, indeed, possible with the existing holds, and at about the suggested grade... is it a vindication of JD?
 UKB Shark 20 May 2011
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
> (In reply to iceaxejuggler)
>
> and Raindogs one of the best routes, we can infer, in the world.

Rainshadow you mean.

I think you're obsessing
 GrahamD 20 May 2011
In reply to plexiglass_nick:


>... is it a vindication of JD?

Was one needed ?
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 20 May 2011
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
>
>
> Anyone else intruigued by his comments on Total Eclipse? Looks like it is, indeed, possible with the existing holds, and at about the suggested grade... is it a vindication of JD?

...and how bizarre in the steaming crucible that is Malham it takes a foreign climber on a flying visit to go and have a look at it after all these years.


Chris
 MJ 20 May 2011
In reply to GrahamD (In reply to plexiglass_nick): -

"is it a vindication of JD?...

...Was one needed"?

Suppose it depends if you're from Sheffield or not.



 Ian Patterson 20 May 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to plexiglass_nick)
> [...]
>
> ...and how bizarre in the steaming crucible that is Malham it takes a foreign climber on a flying visit to go and have a look at it after all these years.
>
>
True to some extent but in actuallity there's only Steve Mac who's really capable (not sure why he's never had a look at it) - routes harder than 8c just don't really get ascents in this country over the last few years(Steve Mac and AO notwithstanding). Hopefully things are starting to change.
 Quiddity 20 May 2011
In reply to GrahamD:

As I understand it there was some uncertainty specifically about the FA of Total Eclipse. Others will know more.
 Quiddity 20 May 2011
In reply to shark:

> Rainshadow you mean.

Whoops! indeed I do.

> I think you're obsessing

hmmm so it would seem...
 GrahamD 20 May 2011
In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Not so much uncertainty as the usual mudslinging at anything JD.
 UKB Shark 20 May 2011
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
> True to some extent but in actuallity there's only Steve Mac who's really capable (not sure why he's never had a look at it) -


He did have a quick look a couple of years ago but thought there was a move to hard/reachy for him. Obviously Moffat had a look before giving it an odd reputation which is offputting for anybody even if they fancy themselves as a 9a and there's not too many about. Its a good 1 minute uphill walk from the catwalk too.
 Morgan Woods 20 May 2011
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
> True to some extent but in actuallity there's only Steve Mac who's really capable (not sure why he's never had a look at it) - routes harder than 8c just don't really get ascents in this country over the last few years(Steve Mac and AO notwithstanding). Hopefully things are starting to change.

Not sure it is....apart from Dave McLeod which UK based climber has ticked 9a? In any case it is great to get some more well deserved recognition for Steve Mac and his routes.
 lowersharpnose 20 May 2011
In reply to Morgan Woods:

John Gaskins.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

>which UK based climber has ticked 9a

Neil Carson!

jcm
 Ian Patterson 20 May 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> >which UK based climber has ticked 9a
>
> Neil Carson!
>
> jcm

And Malcom Smith (route at the Anvil I believe) - we're not really building a list of young guns it has to be said!

I think standards are rising in the chasing pack - more 8c's are being climbed (Chris Savage did True North recently) and there seems to be lots of people doing quick ascents of lower grade 8's. Not sure if this will lead to more people climbing properly hard routes but I like to think so - Adam O saying that Rainshadow is one of the best routes he's done can only being inspiring if you have the capability to consider climbing a route like that.
 Hephaestus 20 May 2011
In reply to Morgan Woods: Have Rich Simpson's efforts been completely dismissed now?
 Tiberius 20 May 2011
In reply to JimboWizbo:
> I wonder if I could do any of the moves if they were in my local bouldering room

I could probably manage the descent at the end
 JLS 20 May 2011
In reply to Hephaestus:

Who?
 lowersharpnose 20 May 2011
In reply to Hephaestus:

No, he is recognised as one of the fastest boxers over a mile.
 Morgan Woods 21 May 2011
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> [...]
>
> And Malcom Smith (route at the Anvil I believe) - we're not really building a list of young guns it has to be said!
>
> I think standards are rising in the chasing pack - more 8c's are being climbed (Chris Savage did True North recently) and there seems to be lots of people doing quick ascents of lower grade 8's.

good points....my question was more about those presently operating than past masters. It just seems odd that top end sports repeats in the UK are currently only being done by a temporary visitor. anyway i hope those in the "chasing pack" get the recognition and support they deserve to keep pushing standards.
 JLS 21 May 2011
In reply to Morgan Woods:

>"was more about those presently operating than past masters"

Er, Malcom Smith's 9a was only last year. I think despite his advancing years we may have to consede Malcom is still a current, rather than past, master.
 Andrew Smith 21 May 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs:Maybe we will see a compotent enough UK based climber make a second ascent this year?
 Andy Farnell 21 May 2011
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> >"was more about those presently operating than past masters"
>
> Er, Malcom Smith's 9a was only last year. I think despite his advancing years we may have to consede Malcom is still a current, rather than past, master.

I wouldn't call mid 30's 'advancing years'....

Andy F
 Morgan Woods 21 May 2011
In reply to JLS:

true - i meant in reference to Gaskins and Carson.

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