There is an excellent story from years back of Craig Parneby (not sure if thats how you spell it?) who fell off the last move on the onsight! Not sure exact year... Don't think anyone has come anywhere near as close since? Not sure if anybody has tried?
> There is an excellent story from years back of Craig Parneby (not sure if thats how you spell it?) who fell off the last move on the onsight! Not sure exact year... Don't think anyone has come anywhere near as close since? Not sure if anybody has tried?
Go on Robbie. You know you want to! Now that you are a trad climber
He fell off an E5 I was belaying him on onto my RPs, which he had insisted that I place for him (via abseil I hasten to add - I can't climb that hard!) as he hadn't tried RPs before!
Graham,I have been told it was ground up but I am not sure of the gear situation...In the photos I have seen she is placing gear but that doesn't mean she did each time. I will try to find out...
In reply to Fraser: You know your really should clean your chalk after an ascent. My day was spoiled when, last week, I arrived at Dumby to find Requiem just plastered in your white powder. It was immediately obvious that any on-sight attempt would be so compromised by the trail of chalk that my claim would have been laughed at. Now it will probably take all winter before the route is in a fit state for a proper o/s attempt.
Graham, direct from the horses mouth: gear was placed on lead on the ascent and on every go. Was climbed ground up - none of it top roped - with falls (quite a lot of falls). The piece that can be seen in the picture above her head is a random piece left in by James. All will be seen in the movie of the ascent.
I had a vague idea that Sonnie Trotter onsighted Requiem as part of his Rhapsody onslaught - sure I remember reading that he's climbed it first go. He could have abseiled inspected first though, or I could have mis-read/mis-remembered.
Hi Ritchie.
Thanks for the info. That makes it a really significant ascent. It's one thing ground-upping an f8a/8a+, a completely different and much more difficult effort to place trad gear on a line of that difficulty. Caroline and James are becoming the most talented trad climbers globally. Great to see.
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