UKC

NEWS: Second Ascent of Lexicon E11 7a by Steve McClure

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
 UKC News 23 Sep 2021

Just two weeks after Neil Gresham claimed the first ascent of a long-term project on Pavey Ark (UKC News), Steve McClure has repeated Lexicon E11 7a, taking a 70ft whipper in the process during an earlier attempt.

Read more

 climberchristy 23 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! Steve's status as climbing legend has just been even further reinforced. What an amazing effort to take that fall and go back to despatch the route. Hats off to both him and Neil on such a stunning route.

In reply to UKC News:

Gresham: "Is trad climbing alive in Britain? …err, yes, and thankfully, so is Steve McClure. 😳😳"

Awesome effort

In reply to UKC News:

Another great bit of writing by Steve.

Is there a video of the fall?

In reply to UKC News:

Well done Mr McClure! Does anyone know how the other 'Big Mac' is doing on it? Has he had to return to his northern kingdom empty handed, or is his border reiving of Cumbrian routes ongoing?

 Fishmate 23 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent read, well done! Once that quality of description takes you to the rock, like Steve, you're strapped in for the ride. Best article I've read on here for a while..

 BCDragon 23 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

When is Steve going to find a route hard enough that he has to tie his shoelaces..?!

 JLS 23 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Looks like novel rope work, with one rope for the bottom half which is then ditched once the second rope is into the final runners that will hopefully protect the runout above.

 Michael Gordon 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Dan Arkle:

In Neil's instagram he says Alasdair Lee is making a film and suggests this will be in it.

 Strontium Dog 24 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome effort and achievement from both Neil and Steve.

But the real question is; where did Steve get his Blancos from? They look brand new. Has he got a secret stash or perhaps are Five Ten still supplying him?

SD.

 Andy Farnell 24 Sep 2021
In reply to BCDragon:

> When is Steve going to find a route hard enough that he has to tie his shoelaces..?!

No such route yet exists 😆

Andy F

 Rad Elliot 24 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Gripping read!

 ste mac 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Strontium Dog:

Good question!! No supply from 5.10 that's for sure. I do have a 'stash' though that is only a few pairs. Actually I've been using the new pinks a fair bit, and the Crawe are great for bouldering. I was wearing the pinks on Lexicon when I was playing on it. However, for the lead, I wanted something I knew very well on my feet! No surprises (ironically I slipped when I fell off, though that was due to bad placement)

 ste mac 24 Sep 2021
In reply to JLS:

Yeah I made that up on the fly really and it seemed to make sense as the bottom wall naturally climbs across from right to left and then back again. The route would also go even better on 2 ropes, as the kit in the break is spread along it, but I'd decided that the impact force on me with 2 halves would be too much in a big lob (as belayer has to be tied down).

 Hardonicus 24 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive stuff, but now we know its not a death fall how can it be E10 or above?

In reply to Hardonicus:

> Impressive stuff, but now we know its not a death fall how can it be E10 or above?

Perception of probabilities. Just because you got away with something once doesn't mean it's safe. Alex Honnold's (successful) free solo of Freerider doesn't change the fact it's a dangerous thing to do. Patrick Edlinger died falling down the stairs in his house, that doesn't mean it's E11

Post edited at 09:50
 nikoid 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Hardonicus:

I agree it's impressive, but at the same time I think it's just nuts taking 70ft falls. From the accounts unexpected things were happening with the gear, krabs breaking and getting cross loaded, so I would suggest because it wasn't a death fall this time doesn't give much comfort to potential future ascentionists. 

 r0b 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Hardonicus:

> Impressive stuff, but now we know its not a death fall how can it be E10 or above?

Repeat it then suggest a downgrade. That's how it works isn't it? Good luck!

In reply to Hardonicus:

How can you question the grade without climbing the route?

Post edited at 11:53
 nathanshaw 24 Sep 2021
In reply to UKC News:

I feel like every single thread I read on UKC somehow, no matter how it starts, turns into a debate about grades!

Can we not just celebrate the determination, skill, effort and enjoyment these two climbers have put into the climb?!

Cracking effort and great read.

 JLS 24 Sep 2021
In reply to ste mac:

Looking at the photo of Neil, it would appear he skipped the first runner to avoid rope drag. Your setup does make a lot of sense, in that the dynamics of the top system would seem more predictable and you have the bonus of added protection at the start of the route.

Well played, on a quick hard repeat.

 Andy Gamisou 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Strontium Dog:

> Awesome effort and achievement from both Neil and Steve.

> But the real question is; where did Steve get his Blancos from? They look brand new. Has he got a secret stash or perhaps are Five Ten still supplying him?

> SD.

I've still got a new pair waiting to be broken in.  I've also a pair of what used to be "blancos" but are now "dirty greyos" that I use sparingly.  I don't tie the shoelaces either - there's no point, it just adds time to the process and doesn't make them any tighter.  In fact, I've got an even older and greyer pair that I took the laces out and they still feel like they're stuck to my feet with superglue.

 UKB Shark 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Andy Farnell:

> No such route yet exists 😆

> Andy F

He tied them for the successful Rainman redpoint…

In reply to UKC News:

Loved Steve’s description of the ascent and not just the successful one.  Everyone at every level is aware of that do or die move where sometimes technique and controlled movement is sacrificed for speed or just get the move done.


Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Loading Notifications...