/ NEWSFLASH: Shauna Coxsey in Hachioji Boulder World Championships

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
UKC News 13 Aug 2019

Shauna Coxsey has become only the second British climber to win a World Championship medal, placing 3rd in the Boulder World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. Having come close in Munich in 2014 and missed Paris 2016 and Innsbruck 2018 due to injury, Shauna's return to form comes at a crucial moment, with her result counting towards possible Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification.

Read more

Report
Dandan 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

It literally JUST happened and you have to put it right in the title? 

Come on!

Report
jockster 13 Aug 2019
In reply to Dandan:

On BBC news in 5 mins...

Report
JLS 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Well that's spoiled tonight's viewing.

I thought we'd all agreed no results in the title!

Report
Durbs 13 Aug 2019
In reply to JLS:

I raised this before and was told it was fine as it was news...

But yep, that's tonights viewing ruined. 

Cheers UKC.

Report
L Qwerty2019 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Huge well done to Shauna.  She climbed with great maturity and thoroughly deserves her medal.  

Is she climbing in the ropes too?

Report
Climbthatpitch 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Suppose you saved me some time tonight. 

I better get out climbing now in this nice weather 😁

Report
MeMeMe 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Have you ever seen the film 'Sixth Sense' ?

No? Well I'd just like to say that the Bruce Willis character is a ghost right from the start of the film. Don't worry you can still watch it, it's a good film, enjoy.

Report
Iamgregp 13 Aug 2019
In reply to MeMeMe:

No, but I've seen The Usual Suspects, and this part with Kevin Spacey right...

Report
john arran 13 Aug 2019
In reply to Dandan:

I struggle with this attitude. Are you really expecting a national media outlet to report on a major British success at a World Championship event and not shout from the rooftops what a fine achievement it was?

If the England football team won their World Cup semi-final match would you be expecting the BBC to lead with the story without giving the result away, so that those who hadn't seen the game could still enjoy it as much on MOTD?

I think the onus is (rightly) on the part of viewers who want to actively deny themselves the news, rather than on broadcasters whose role it is to inform.

Report
MeMeMe 13 Aug 2019
In reply to john arran:

I agree that the reporting of climbing comps is certainly heading towards the same kind of reporting as mainstream sport but that doesn't make it the best way to do things, to be honest it feels a bit backwards. People don't sit down in front of the telly on Saturday Tea Time to get the results any more, they're constantly connected to news/sports outlets, it's really hard to avoid seeing results unless the news outlets are more circumspect.

By having the headline slightly less explicit and the details in the article UKC would avoid annoying those that don't want to know the results yet and it would make little difference to anyone else.

Report
jimtitt 13 Aug 2019
In reply to john arran:

> I struggle with this attitude. Are you really expecting a national media outlet to report on a major British success at a World Championship event and not shout from the rooftops what a fine achievement it was?

> If the England football team won their World Cup semi-final match would you be expecting the BBC to lead with the story without giving the result away, so that those who hadn't seen the game could still enjoy it as much on MOTD?

> I think the onus is (rightly) on the part of viewers who want to actively deny themselves the news, rather than on broadcasters whose role it is to inform.


Indeed, some of us (the majority of climbers I'd guess) are so disinterested in comp climbing that having the name of a British climber in the thread title is the only way they will get recognition outside of a small audience.

Report
kevin stephens 13 Aug 2019
In reply to john arran:

I agree, If I wanted to enjoy the highlights later I would not have visited UKC as the site is about climbing hence where you would expect to see climbing news.  However I would be upset to see the results of a crucial TdF stage in a UKC thread title before having chance to see the highlights.  Similarly If I wanted to avoid the bouldering comp results by browsing a cycling forum I would have been upset (not to say surprised) to see someone posting the bouldering results in a thread title on there.

Post edited at 15:42
Report
MeMeMe 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

I'd also like to say, well done Shauna, 3rd is an amazing achievement, the standard in the comps is something else nowadays, I can't comprehend how much work you must have to put in to be competitive.

Report
PaulJepson 13 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Very exciting if we get a Brit in the Olympics. I wasn't holding my breath with the level of competition out there.

Report
Dandan 13 Aug 2019
In reply to john arran:

Sure, news isn't really news unless it's reported straight away, but all I would ask is a little more subtlety in the post title on the forum, how about:

"Shauna Coxsey success in Hachioji Boulder World Championships" or similar? I'm happy to hear she has done well but there is still at least an element of surprise to it if I choose not to click through and read the article.

Report
Michael Gordon 13 Aug 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

> Indeed, some of us (the majority of climbers I'd guess) are so disinterested in comp climbing that having the name of a British climber in the thread title is the only way they will get recognition outside of a small audience.

While I sympathise with those on here who enjoy comps and didn't want to see the results in a thread title, I probably agree with the above. There's no way I'd have clicked on it if it had just said Hachioji Boulder World Championships Results

Report
JLS 14 Aug 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

Fair enough to report the result, with any headline you like, in the NEWS section of the site but does that headline also really need to be repeated in a forum post? UKC are forever reminding us about how the forums are such a small and incidental component of the site, in which case why is it so important to report the news headlines there?

Report
The Jazz Butcher 14 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome result for Shauna considering all her injuries over the last couple of years. Pulled it out of the bag just at the right moment.

Report
Michael Gordon 14 Aug 2019
In reply to JLS:

People may not have seen it elsewhere. I often only see things that have appeared in the forums, particularly if several days old and the news page has moved on.

Report
JLS 14 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Anyway, UKC spoiler notwithstanding, Shauna was awesome.

It didn't look like she was in her very best climbing shape but she applied what she had to great effect. Her head game was A1. So cool and collected. Completely unflustered when shutdown by P2 and P3. Able to seize the moment and direct 100% of her immense strength to the holds on P1 and P4 when 99% wouldn't have been enough. Perfect application.

Report
Robert Durran 14 Aug 2019
In reply to jimtitt:

> Indeed, some of us (the majority of climbers I'd guess) are so disinterested in comp climbing that having the name of a British climber in the thread title is the only way they will get recognition outside of a small audience.

The obvious thing would have been to simply leave "3rd" out of the thread title. Those of us unlikely to have any interest in competitions unless there is British interest (or Ondra!) get alerted and can click on it and those who take more serious interest need not.

Report
Michael Hood 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Robert Durran and everyone else as well:

Janja looked awesome, especially the one where she felt that crimpy hold and then immediately did a two handed dyno for the next scoopy hold instead.

News alert, Ondra came....??? Nah, just kidding

Report
In reply to Robert Durran:

> The obvious thing would have been to simply leave "3rd" out of the thread title.

Done, the Forum thread automatically gets the same title as the News post but I've edited it for those specifically staying away from the News page so they don't get to see the result.

Report
Mike Highbury 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH: Oh, Heavens, please tell me that you haven't fallen for the nonsense of a bunch of people who spend endless hours on UKC complaining that they read something on UKC?

Report
JLS 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Mike Highbury:

For a site that relies on eyeball numbers for its finance, it kinda makes sense to make some minor tweaks to thread titles, rather than tell those that don’t want to see spoilers, to not visit the site when there’s a comp going on.

Report
FactorXXX 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

> The obvious thing would have been to simply leave "3rd" out of the thread title. 

A good compromise would have been something like: 'Shauna Coxsey finishes in Top 5 in Hachioji Boulder World Championships'.
Enough to catch your eye to make you read it if you're interested and not enough to totally spoilt it if you intended to watch it on catch up.

Report
Robert Durran 14 Aug 2019
In reply to FactorXXX:

> A good compromise would have been something like: 'Shauna Coxsey finishes in Top 5 in Hachioji Boulder World Championships'.

The trouble with that is that it seems to imply that she didn't win and perhaps didn't even make the top 3.

Report
JLS 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

How about... Shauna Coxsey 3rd (margin of error +/-2) in Hachioji Boulder World Championships...?

Report
alx 14 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

UKC did everyone a massive favour. Possibly the dullest set of finals yet, and I love IFSC lead and boulder comps but this was like watching paint dry.

Report
In reply to Mike Highbury:

It's a pretty minor tweak. If there's one thing I've learnt working for UKC, it's you can't please everyone

Report
Southvillain 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

> If there's one thing I've learnt working for UKC, it's you can't please everyone

No, what you have to learn is that it's not about pleasing `everyone', it's about pleasing `me'. `I'm' not bothered about anyone else, I want to site to suit just `me' and `me' alone. Oh, and I want it to be free. And give stuff away. Preferably to `me' also.

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.