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NEWS: UKC User John Cooke Ticks Triple 8.

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 UKC News 25 Nov 2009
[End of the Affair and Triple 8's for John Cooke, 4 kb]UKC User John Cooke has realised a long term climbing ambition by headpointing an E8 trad route. John had been looking to tick the 'triple 8' - an E8, a Font 8A boulder problem and a F8a route for some time and succeeded by headpointing End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar in early November.
John...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50243
 galpinos 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic John.

What was the Font 8a out of interest?
 Aigen 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Steve Haston has done the E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m.
 Ewan Russell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Aigen: Im slightly worried steve haston is devolping chuck norris status.
 Dave Warburton 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Well done, fine effort.
In reply to Aigen:
> (In reply to UKC News) Steve Haston has done the E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m.

I'm don't think you are correct there.

Stevie famously doesn't perform at altitude.

 catt 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one John, good effort mate.
 Dom Whillans 25 Nov 2009
In reply to The third:
> (In reply to cyberpunk) Im slightly worried steve haston is devolping chuck norris status.

lol!
In reply to UKC News:


Excellent effort! But sureley It's not an E8 if he didn't onsight it? H8? Still knarly.
 Richard Hall 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Aigen: UIAA 8 desn't mean much, that is about F7a.
In reply to Richard Hall: but a proper UIAA route is at altitude and I don't think many people would take the tick if they redpointed it. So It's probably the equivalent of a 7b onsight, on trad gear normally, so harder than an E8 headpoint.
 fishy1 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson: And traditionally done in big boots, while lugging a sack. VIII in those circumstances would be an effort!
 Rich Guest 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Well done John. How does it feel?
 Jonny2vests 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
>but the ultimate grade 8 challenge has, as far as we know, not yet been completed


The 8x8 challenge. All a bit Terry Pratchett. You'd probably need magic to do it.
 Souljah 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Great achievement, nice one John
 Richard Hall 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson: Being on trad gear does not make it equivilent to 7b, it makes it E4/5.

Neither does being 30 mins walk from the Midi Plan station necessary make it harder. Most people will not drive straight from the UK to Cham, get on the first cable car and straight on an E5.

Besides, UIAA 8 could also be a sport route in the Frankendura.
 Richard Hall 25 Nov 2009
In reply to fishy1: Don't be silly.
 Stuart S 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort, John. Still can't believe you chose to do End of the Affair in those conditions!
In reply to Richard Hall:

It's not really in the spirit of things to redpoint frankenjura routes for the UIAA grade though is it- like getting a helicopter up to everest.

Trad gear doesn't make the french grade harder, but altitude does. Even if It's E4/5/6 (as 7a could be) onsighting that at the hight of the midi is as hard or harder than headpointing E8.
In reply to Richard Hall: It could also mean UIAA VIII ice and mixed which is actually pretty hard... like scottish 9 ish...
iamthegodoflochnagar 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Ignorning the all-too-obvious point that E8 is the onsight grade, surely the ultimate "mega-8-turbo-tick" must be combining all of the above grades into a single route. A first ascent which includes a rock pitch of E8, with an 8A crux, with M8 and Scottish VIII climbing above that to the top of an 8000m peak.
In reply to UKC News: All Dave Macloed needs to do then is get himself up an 8000er...
 Morgan Woods 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Richard Hall)
>
> > Trad gear doesn't make the french grade harder, but altitude does. Even if It's E4/5/6 (as 7a could be) onsighting that at the hight of the midi is as hard or harder than headpointing E8.

i 'spose you would know.
 bouldery bits 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Top effort John!
In reply to UKC News: Did John used to post under a name that had something to do with Cuba? Cuban Allstars maybe?
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I know E8 worked is equivalent of about E5 onsight. And I have climbed at the hight of the midi and know what effect it has on performance. So yes, I would.
 Jimbo C 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Aigen:
> (In reply to UKC News) Steve Haston has done the E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m.

Andy Cave might have done all those apart from the Font 8a, but I'm not certain.
 Morgan Woods 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> I know E8 worked is equivalent of about E5 onsight.

Franco are you saying all the benchmark E8's you've headpointed are the same as the benchmark E5's you've onsighted?
 Adders 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: well done John all those crunches & training sessions are paying off huh!
 Simon 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Adders:

Top Effort John - well done boss - that is bloody impressive - what's next? - you have to follow that!!?
 Richard Hall 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson: OK, lets take your most extreme example. Yes, onsighting E6 at 3700m is more impressive than headpointing something like EOTA.

I was just pointing out that "UIAA 8" without context doen't mean much and on its own is not that impressive.
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> I know E8 worked is equivalent of about E5 onsight. And I have climbed at the hight of the midi and know what effect it has on performance. So yes, I would.

Yet again your spout some drivel. E8 worked is not the same as E5 onsight. One is E8, the other is E5. Simple isn't it? That's why they are different grades. Stop belittling the achievements of other because they don't fit into your skewed view of the world.

Cooky - well done lad. Now go do something hard

Andy F
 andyinglis 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Good effort!!! As a sideline, which scottish VIII did haston do????
 Jamie B 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andyinglis:

Did he not put up some Welsh horror-show which he declined to grade but later hinted might have been the UK's first IX?
 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> [...]
>
> Yet again your spout some drivel. E8 worked is not the same as E5 onsight. One is E8, the other is E5. Simple isn't it? That's why they are different grades.

Uhhh no not really. You have to add in style of ascent. That makes a difference.

Not that you could quantify it like our little friend is attempting to do.

 tobyfk 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Aigen:
> (In reply to UKC News) Steve Haston has done the E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m.

Are we actually sure he has bouldered Font 8a? Seems plausible but I don't recall reading that anywhere (and people do write a lot about him).

 Jamie B 25 Nov 2009
In reply to tobyfk:

Cant find any document of him having summitted an 8,000er either..

 Jamie B 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Maybe Franco could get a job for 8a.nu?

I'll get me coat.
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Ok, E8 after working isn't as impressive as an E8 flash or an E8 onsight. But it's still harder than an E5 onsight. I know lot's of E5's which would be about French 6b+/6c, but Don't know of any E8's which would fall into that grade range. AFAIK EOTA is about French 7b/7b+, which is much harder than most E5's around the place, irrespective of style of ascent.

Andy F
In reply to UKC News:

What about Water Ice 8?

Just kidding
 JR 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Firstly, well done John. I know how far away EOTA felt a few years ago when you were still able to crank the bolts much harder than I probably ever will! What font 8a's have you done? Any in Font?

IRT Franco, E8 is not the equivalent of E5 onsight, never has been. Much different styles. I know you like you're ethics/onsights and it's a respectable way to climb but it's certainly not a right of passage to take any ethical highground over John's achievement.

EOTA is one of the easier to headpoint yes but it's a much different experience to onsighting E5. For what it's worth from personal experience I've found some E8 headpoints much harder phsyically and mentally than E5/6/7/8 onsights/GU/flashes.

Also I'm sure you're aware that the grades in the mountains often and usually take into account one's impaired performance at altitude. An exception may be the midi where they're done so frequently by the very acclimatised Euros that the grade is possibly slightly skewed but experience allows you to take that into account (either that or more acclimatisation!)
 Ali 25 Nov 2009
In reply to TobyA: He used to post as cubanallstar.

Well done John x
 Ally Smith 25 Nov 2009
In reply to tobyfk:

> Are we actually sure he has bouldered Font 8a? Seems plausible but I don't recall reading that anywhere (and people do write a lot about him).

Doesn't Stevie's new F9a have a Font 8A crux section?

And as for 8,000m i thikn i recall one of his old OTE articles talking about trying to snowboard Cho Oyu, failing to summit (no O2 and carrying all his own kit/board and no Sherpas), but still boarding from 8,000m+?

 pascalbrown 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Welcome to the club John.
 Eagle River 25 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)

>
> IRT Franco, E8 is not the equivalent of E5 onsight, never has been. Much different styles. I know you like you're ethics/onsights and it's a respectable way to climb but it's certainly not a right of passage to take any ethical highground over John's achievement.

Talking a lot of sense there JR.

Fantastic effort John, really impressive.
 old skool 25 Nov 2009
In reply to tobyfk:

Yes, Haston has bouldered Font 8a

and no, the E8 headpoint doesn't count. The E8 grade is for the onsight.
 Andy Moles 25 Nov 2009
In reply to old skool:

This quibbling about whether E8 counts or not if it's headpointed is irrelevant. The grading systems weren't developed in the sync so the number 8 is arbitrary. The guy set himself a challenge and achieved it, so well done to him.
 Brendan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to ally smith:

I seem to remember an OTE article about him climbing everest... and getting into a fist-fight at basecamp. I could be wrong though, I read it a long time ago.
In reply to UKC News: Well done John!
 old skool 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Brendan:

Haston hasn't climbed Everest.


Neither has John Cooke climbed E8. He has climbed a route that was graded E8 for an onsight lead, which he headpointed. This is not "irrelevant" in the context of this news item.
 Ackbar 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: So can we conclude from all this that E8 is the crux when it comes to ticking the 8s? I guess scottish VIII must be close also.
 alex 25 Nov 2009
In reply to old skool:

Well, you obviously do since you're banging on about it.
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to UKC News) So can we conclude from all this that E8 is the crux when it comes to ticking the 8s? I guess scottish VIII must be close also.

No (unless you insist on onsight in which case yes).
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
By "yes" I mean "yes, probably" and by "no" I mean "no".
 Pagan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to old skool:

> careful, sunshine.

Why, what are you going to do?
 Ed Booth 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: I love it how the majority of messages seem to be negative. People must be really jealous or just bitter.

Good effort. The 8 challenges are great. I'm thinking I might get stumped by Font 8a, cause unlike the rest which are fairly acheivable, font 8a you need to be a strong bastard!!!

Good effort.
 Ed Booth 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Its like saying sending a font 8a is only the same as flashin a font 7b+. Clearly, you have still done it whether you worked it or not.

A grade is a grade. You don't have to change it for a style. Headpointing and onsighting or totally different. E8 headpoint isn;t like E5 on sight. It's like E8 headpoint and simple as that. Face the facts, headpointing has been a big part of Trad climbing history in this country and will more than likely continue to be.
Ed
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:
Forgot to say good effort John.
 Rubbishy 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Cracking climb John - you have had a great 12 months.

Have pm'd you .
 old skool 25 Nov 2009
In reply to victim of mathematics:

"Man sets himself arbitrary, but aesthetic and hard challenge.

Man completes said challenge."

You forgot to add a crucial bit:

Man sprays said challenge on an internet forum (or allows this to happen), thereby laying himself open to criticism, since the challenged is over-hyped and, in the case of the "E8" part, inaccurate.
 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Let's not forget, that behind the grade, and despite the disagreements about grades and style is the Journey that John has travelled to achieve his goals.

The training, keeping the psyche high, all the routes done before he achieved the three 8's, the experience of pulling hard and making progress, the failures, possible injuries, great days out with climbing partners and at the great places where we climb in the UK.

It's great to have goals and to eventually achieve them, but the getting there is so much good climbing fun.....and at whatever level.

Nice one John.

We didn't expect such a response when we ran this news item, but, and don't all rush at once please, but if you have achieved something special, don't be afraid to share with others...it isn't bragging, I for one, and I'm sure I'm not alone, find it very inspirational...even at my age!

Mick

 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Any chance you can remove the childish posts from what is an otherwise good thread Mick?

Although i don't know John, I'm sure he wouldn't particularly like to be linked to childishness!

OP: Good going John, Kudos to you!
 biscuit 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to Pagan) What is it with people being absolute dicks on this forum?
>
I was talking about different grading systems and how they compare. Can the posters who just resort to trying to piss people off just shut up?

Which is not what this thread was about. Go elsewhere and start your own thread.
 JR 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:

I'd agree; you didn't put anyone's achievement down directly but you must agree that directly questioning the value of the achievement doesn't do your argument any favours.

I think the important thing here is that none of this really up for question because John set the arbitary benchmarks which he then went on to achieve (one of which was climbing an E8 by headpoint or otherwise.)

Whether it's newsworthy or not is another argument, I know I wouldn't have reported if it was me personally (and as it happens it's one of my long terms goals.) UKC has gained traffic and you'll see John's sponsors mentioned on the news page so from a marketing/business view it's worth it for them.

I also don't think people do disagree RE UIAA VIII and E8. If you can do E8 you can probably do the other so similar yes but probably easier.

I think comparing onsight E grades to headpoint E grades is non science from the start. (let's not forget, pedantic or otherwise, that you brought it up Franco.) I guess it simply comes from people needing to have a comparison to measure themselves against. I' think you've onsighted E5, if that means you're confident you could headpoint E8 then so be it, but the proof is in the pudding. If I was forced to, in rough effort terms I would agree with the comparison but a comparison like that comes with a big health warning. Ability to do one, doesn't mean you could do the other. To throw another simile into the fire it's like comparing shooting on a range to shooting on a battlefield. Too many different factors to consider.
 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

Doing it now.
 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
>
> Doing it now.

Cheers, looking much tidier now.
 Rubbishy 25 Nov 2009
In reply to old skool:
> (
> You forgot to add a crucial bit:
>
> Man sprays said challenge on an internet forum (or allows this to happen), thereby laying himself open to criticism, since the challenged is over-hyped and, in the case of the "E8" part, inaccurate.

UKC put it up, JC is as modest as they get.

btw - you have bile on your chin...
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I thought there was a post mentioning that lots of people had done this triple somewhere in this thread, but glancing back through I can't find it, ho-hum.
Anyway, in common with JR, one of my aims is to tick this triple. I'd be interested to know who these numerous people are.

Any chance we could have a break down of the 8's John has ticked (in whatever style)?
 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I thought there was a post mentioning that lots of people had done this triple somewhere in this thread, but glancing back through I can't find it, ho-hum.

You'll find it here...


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50243
 Brendan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to old skool:
> (In reply to Brendan)
>
> Haston hasn't climbed Everest.
>
>
> Neither has John Cooke climbed E8. He has climbed a route that was graded E8 for an onsight lead, which he headpointed. This is not "irrelevant" in the context of this news item.

Next you'll be claiming that climbing an 8000m peak with supplementary oxygen doesn't count either.




 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
A-ha, I knew I'd read it somewhere. Who are these many?
 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> A-ha, I knew I'd read it somewhere. Who are these many?

I'll start..

Kevin Thaw
James Pearson

 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009

Actually Kevin has probably done, E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m
 James Oswald 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Jimbo C
Has Neil Gresham done it? I know he's done E8, F8A, M8 and I think he told me at his masterclass something about him doing a FOnt 8A.
James
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Dave Birkett (the only one who has onsighted the E8?)
Neil Carson
...
 simes303 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Ive climbed The End Of The Affair and I'm shit:

Font 7b and F7b+ are the hardest boulders and sport routes Ive done.

With respect, If youve climbed Mecca etc then EOTA should be total piss.

Si. x
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I'll add Ste Mac, Dave Mac, Malc Smith, Jerry Moffatt, Ron Fawcett, Sam Whittaker.

Andy F
 Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> Ian Vickers
> Gaz Parry
> Dave Birkett (the only one who has onsighted the E8?)
> Neil Carson
> ...


Leo Houlding?... plus he's done an 8000m peak.
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
Which E8's have Ste Mac, Malc Smith, Jerry Moffatt and Ron done?

Not doubting their ability, just can't think of any (I think Renegade Master is down to E7 now or am I wrong??)
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Ste Dunning
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to TobyA) He used to post as cubanallstar.

I remembered right. I always thought is was one of the best names on UKC! Years ago I was somewhere climbing in the UK, and I remember seeing a chap and being pretty certain it was the bloke from UKC I knew as "Cubanallstar" who's photos I had seen (UKC was way smaller then!). But I felt really silly going up to him and saying "Hello, are you Cubanallstar?" so I didn't.

But anyways, congrats to John/Cubanallstar!

 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:
Ah yes, of course.
 JR 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Heason?
 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>

> Ste Mac did Elder Statesman (E8?)

Didn't Steve grade this as HXS?
 JR 25 Nov 2009
In reply to the inspiral carpet:

Yes I think you're right but it's gotta be worth it for the onsight...
 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I'll add Ste Mac, Dave Mac, Malc Smith, Jerry Moffatt, Ron Fawcett, Sam Whittaker.
>
> Andy F

Would Big Ron have been the first to have achieved the 3 8's?
Serpico 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> Ian Vickers
> Gaz Parry
> Dave Birkett (the only one who has onsighted the E8?)
> Neil Carson
> ...

Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
and almost definitely Pete Hurley (tbc)


 JSA 25 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:

The blind dyno for the finger-tip pocked is an awesome move. The technical difficulty combined with the relative safety of pro placed high in Elder crack is what i think made this so hard to grade..
 JR 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:

all them,

ned fehally and dan varian?
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:
This list is getting longer than I expected, quicker than I thought...
 MJ 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

"Which E8's has Ste Mac done"?

Rhapsody?
The Big Issue?


 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to MJ:
Yes I was being a bit dim re: Ste Mac
 MJ 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:

John Dunne?
John Arran?
 Stuart S 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to andy farnell)
> Which E8's have Ste Mac, Malc Smith, Jerry Moffatt and Ron done?

Malc Smith did the FA of Transcendance at Back Bowden
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Stuart S:
Thank-you.
E8's for Jerry and Ron anybody?
 Adam Lincoln 25 Nov 2009
In reply to galpinos:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Fantastic John.
>
> What was the Font 8a out of interest?

I can't think what it was off hand, but he just did a font 8a tonight at the tor. Tumbleweed.
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Jerry - Renegade Master. Ron - That route at Curbar, Cool Moon?

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to galpinos)
> [...]
>
> I can't think what it was off hand, but he just did a font 8a tonight at the tor. Tumbleweed.

Wasn't Stamina Band John's first 8A?

Andy F
 Adam Lincoln 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Keeg) Jerry - Renegade Master. Ron - That route at Curbar, Cool Moon?
>
> Andy F

Moon Madness.

 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Cheer Adam, couldn't remember then name. Add Pete Robins, James McHaffie and Miles Gibson to the list.

Andy F
 John Cooke 25 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Thanks for the comments all, i'm just back from a night bouldering session at Raven Tor so have just logged on to read the responses now. It's great that it's sparked so much interest!

I think goals are so important in climbing and heck, not only climbing but in life generally. They are what make people tick, what we use to measure ourselves and how we improve. And they provide us with enormous levels of motivation! I've stacks more mini challenges to aim for and would truly encourage everyone to do the same.

The 3 8's challenge i personally set myself included an E8 headpoint so i'm not sure where the confusion has been here with regards to onsighting E8 - that would be truly remarkable! A recent UKB list thought <200 people to have bouldered Font 8A so the numbers having climbed E8 and 8a as well are likely to be significantly less - honest guesswork and not massively important but it at least quantifies things.

At the end of the day, i hope this inspires people, even if it inspires one person then it's a job well done. My own inspiration comes from all the people wno are out there doing the business and are always trying 100% rain or shine. It gets me so psyched words cannot describe! It's easy enough to say "oh i'd like to do that as well" and "that's one of my challenges too". Get yourself out there!

Say hi if you see me at the crag, i'm a nice guy.

Try hard,

John.
 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to John Cooke: You are the most laid back person who can ever describe themselves as psyched! Well done mate. And you are indeed am all-round nice bloke.

Andy
 Keeg 25 Nov 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
Moon Madness is only E7, Renegade Master is now down to E7 also I think? Mind you that is with a different finish??

I think it will be way less than 200, I'd think less than 50?

 Andy Farnell 25 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Ok, I remember Moon Madness getting E8 though. I'm surprised there's no Jerry E8 though. That disputed thing at Burbage? Samson?Did the E6 grade stick? Didn't it get very highballed at Font 8a, which must be way above E6 just for difficulty?

Andy F
 Michael Ryan 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>
> Actually Kevin has probably done, E8, F8a, Font 8A, M8, Scottish VIII,8, UIAA 8, 8000m

Actually that Jack Geldard has achieved all the above except the 8,000m peak....perhaps I'll guide him up Everest.

 Jamie B 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What VIII has Jack done?
 Misha 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> Trad gear doesn't make the french grade harder, but altitude does. Even if It's E4/5/6 (as 7a could be) onsighting that at the hight of the midi is as hard or harder than headpointing E8.
Surely this depends how well you're acclimatised? It's possible to be pretty well acclimatised for the routes around the Geant Basin, which tend to be in the 3,500m - 3,8000m bracket. How much of a difference it makes when doing a *hard* route I don't know. Perhaps we should ask James McHaffie and Ben Bransby, who did the Arnaud Petit route on the Grand Cap recently? The route apparently goes at F8b for the crux and the report in November's Climber quotes Ben as saying "The harder pitches were mostly bolted - at least on the harder sections - although you were still doing bits of climbing on trade at E4/5, also many of the pitches even though bolted were pretty spicy - E5/6 sort of feel". Then again, John Arran does suggest that the guys seemed to be quite modest.
 Misha 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> I for one, and I'm sure I'm not alone, find it very inspirational

Inspirational as here is someone who isn't a pro climber and whom I'd never heard about before - shows that with a lot of grit and determination it's possible to get to a very high level indeed. Would be interesting to find out a bit more about how much training and outdoors climbing he did to get there and how he fitted it all in around job, family, etc.
 Chris F 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Cooke: Nice post beardy boy. Great stuff.
 chris_j_s 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Dave Birkett (the only one who has onsighted the E8?)

James Pearson onsighted E8 too.
 galpinos 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to galpinos)
> [...]
>
> I can't think what it was off hand, but he just did a font 8a tonight at the tor. Tumbleweed.

Cheers Adam, just seen the photo in the gallery.
 galpinos 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Cooke:

Well done! Makes me think I should pull my finger out, set some (slightly more modest than yours) goals and achieve them!

(A great post bearing in mind all the whinging!)
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Keeg)
> and almost definitely Pete Hurley (tbc)

Not sure Pete has done font 8a?

 LiamDobson 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: I'm pretty sure pete robins has done the tripple
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to LiamDobson:
> (In reply to UKC News) I'm pretty sure pete robins has done the tripple

Yes, he has already been mentioned.

 LiamDobson 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Ah yeah missed that completely, even searched before I posted, must have not refreshed the page in a while, I do apologise.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

I was trying to think of a "5 X 5" for mere mortals

Boulder Font 5
Ice Scottish V
Sport F5
Trad E5

but there is a real miss-match there - plus I am missing one!
Aid A5 maybe?


Chris
 Eagle River 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

its the same when you do it for a triple 7. I've done font 7, Sport 7 but I have no intention of E7 trad!
 GrahamD 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> but there is a real miss-match there - plus I am missing one!
> Aid A5 maybe?

5 pints of Old Peculiar ?
 duncan 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

The old-school 5x5:

Trad.: E5 ...onsight of course!
Bouldering: V5
Ice: Scottish 5
Aid: A5
Plodding: 5000m



Another candidate for the triple 8: London dark-horse Liam Halsey.
 Enty 26 Nov 2009
In reply to duncan:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> The old-school 5x5:
>
> Trad.: E5 ...onsight of course!
> Bouldering: V5
> Ice: Scottish 5
> Aid: A5
> Plodding: 5000m
>
>
>


Not bad but surely the A5 is well out of kilter with the others?

Enty

 Simon Caldwell 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I think I could manage the 3s - but only if the trad route is a grade 3 scramble
 duncan 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Enty:

> Not bad but surely the A5 is well out of kilter with the others?

It's just there to keep Stevie Haston out of the running.



 pascalbrown 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: Ned Feehally? Stu Littlefair? Stew Watson? Adam Mulholland? Rich Simpson. Me. I'm sure there are plenty of unknowns out there too...
 Stig 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Cooke: Well done John - I knew you were gonna be good

Good post too.
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to no one individual:
So it would seem quite a few people have done the 3x8 allowing a headpoint for the E8, I still think the total number will be below 50, I'll do a quick count back and see how many we're up to.

However the only ones who have onsighted the E8 so far are Birkett and Pearson (although Ryan must get an honourable mention as I think he's flashed at least two E8's). In fact Pearson has onsighted E8, flashed/onsighted(?) F8a and flashed Font 8A, wowsers!

Right I'm off to tot up the numbers...

Anybody care to hazard a guess for numbers who have done 3x7 (allowing headpointing I suspect will be a pretty large number but not allowing headpointing is interesting, although it would be essentially a list of who has onsighted E7 as I can't imagine anyone onsighting E7 and not having done sport 7 and Font 7). Have more people done the E7 onsight triple than the E8 headpoint triple? I think probably, any thoughts?

How very geeky this is...
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Right I've counted through so far and (assuming nobody has posted more whilst I've been counting) the current tally is 32. I'm assuming all people named have done it but have added notes where I'm unsure of what they have done (this does not in anyway express doubt, just that I don't know them/their ticklists).
The results so far:

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury (What E8 has he done, I thought he just did highball Font 7C's?)
Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)
Pete Hurley (has he done Font 8A?)
Ben Heason (has he done Font 8A?)
John Arran (has he done Font 8A?)
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finishto Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker (I assume he's done Font 8A)
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
In reply to Keeg:

Tom Briggs
Nic Sellars
 frost 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: looking forward to all the nines!
In reply to Tyler:

John Welford
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
Firstly, nice one John! Rest assured I, and others I'm sure, picked up some inspiration as it trickled down through the pinball machine of madness and hate that is this thread.


In reply to Keeg: Nice salvage operation!

> So it would seem quite a few people have done the 3x8 allowing a headpoint for the E8, I still think the total number will be below 50, I'll do a quick count back and see how many we're up to.

I'd guess it's between 50 and 100. The point that hasn't been laboured on this thread that much is that font8a is by far far the hardest, allowing rehearsed E8. The fact is if you've got the strength and ability to boulder 8A the other two should be relative formality.

> However the only ones who have onsighted the E8 so far are Birkett and Pearson (although Ryan must get an honourable mention as I think he's flashed at least two E8's). In fact Pearson has onsighted E8, flashed/onsighted(?) F8a and flashed Font 8A, wowsers!
flashes should be allowed with special mention for onsights.

>
> Right I'm off to tot up the numbers...
>
> Anybody care to hazard a guess for numbers who have done 3x7 (allowing headpointing I suspect will be a pretty large number
> big number if allow headpoints, 4 figures? maybe not but got to be more than 500
> but not allowing headpointing is interesting, although it would be essentially a list of who has onsighted E7 as I can't imagine anyone onsighting E7 and not having done sport 7 and Font 7). Have more people done the E7 onsight triple than the E8 headpoint triple? I think probably, any thoughts?

I think the 90's headpoint boom might nudge it the other way. I reckon I know/know of more people that've headpointed E8 than onsighted E7. E7 onsights are still pretty rare/hard as far as I can tell!
>
> How very geeky this is...

Oh yes. On a geeky note my internet semi-stalking skills indicate that you're but one tick away from glory (and by far the easiest one!).

 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tyler:
Has Nic done Font 8A (I'd pressume he has)
Have John and Tom done E8 (I have a vague notion that I've heard John has, I dunno about Tom?)

Anyway assuming the answer to the above is yes we now stand at a mighty:

35
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Sam Whittaker (I assume he's done Font 8A)
he flashed purely belter @ shaftoe
In reply to Keeg:

Mark Katz did Agua Caliente in the Pass, is that still considered E8?

Oh, in my excitement at seeing all this climbing geekiness, I forgot to say well done Jon, good effort.
In reply to Keeg:

Tom ahs done Parthian, and hasn't John done Marbellous at Stanage?
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Have John and Tom done E8 has, I dunno about Tom?)

Parthian's got to count!
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
Nick Dixon? assuming he's bouldered 8A?
 Niall Grimes 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
> Firstly, nice one John! Rest assured I, and others I'm sure, picked up some inspiration as it trickled down through the pinball machine of madness and hate that is this thread.


Love it, perfectly expressed
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
> I think the 90's headpoint boom might nudge it the other way. I reckon I know/know of more people that've headpointed E8 than onsighted E7. E7 onsights are still pretty rare/hard as far as I can tell!

Interesting point, but would the headpointing boom of the 90's affect the stats for the 8 triple? After all you still have to do a sport 8a and a Font 8A. Whereas once you've onsighted E7 it's almost certain that you will have already done Font/sport 7a. Or if not you'd find them pretty trivial to do.

> Oh yes. On a geeky note my internet semi-stalking skills indicate that you're but one tick away from glory (and by far the easiest one!).

One day it will be mine...

In reply to Keeg:
>
> Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)

Pretty sure he did the second ascesnt of Knocking on Heaven's Door

 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to Keeg)
>
> Tom ahs done Parthian, and hasn't John done Marbellous at Stanage?

And now I feel a bit stupid...
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Southworth:
> (In reply to Keeg)
> [...]
>
> Pretty sure he did the second ascesnt of Knocking on Heaven's Door

At E6 with a pre-placed peg (unless anybody knows different?)

 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

I'll accept Nick Dixon but a Font 8A tick confirmation would be good.
Bransby can go in whatever he says.

37

(but half a dozen or so could be wrong)
 duncan 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Impressive geekery!

> Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)

Gaia, according to this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=9155


Ben Bransby would have been in, except he claimed they were all 7s.

 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to duncan:
How has your post gone below my post? Weird.

Oh well...
 Stuart S 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Cubby has done E8 and F8a. Not sure about Font 8a, but wouldn't be surprised...
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Interesting point, but would the headpointing boom of the 90's affect the stats for the 8 triple? After all you still have to do a sport 8a and a Font 8A. Whereas once you've onsighted E7 it's almost certain that you will have already done Font/sport 7a. Or if not you'd find them pretty trivial to do.

Right you are. In my excitment I got a little confused, I read the question as 'have more people onsighted E7 than headpointed E8' ie. independent of the other stuff.

I reckon the best way must be to work back from the list of 8A boulderers?

Did Andy Swan ever do any routes/clip any bolts? If so I'd guess he'd be in.
 duncan 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Sorry. Unnecessary editing on my part.

Do foreigners count? Kevin Jorgeson et al. Sonnie Trotter?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to duncan:
Just Brits.

I've realised I've missed off Katz
Also Cubby can go in, I have a feeling he did a long Font 8A traverse??
Andy Swan, I dunno if he's done any routes. Anybody?

Anyway putting those three in gets us up to:

40

(but there are growing numbers of uncertains in the list now...)
 chris_j_s 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Couple of possibles...

John Gaskins - has he done E8?
Lucy Creamer - has she bouldered font 8a? She would be the first female on the list if so.
TimS 26 Nov 2009
In reply to chris_j_s: Johnny G of course he's done E8! There's one here at E10 http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/r+r%20thorn%20crag%20routes.pdf
So Johnny G has done 8C (at least) 9a+ and E10 (at least)

Back to the topic in hand, nice one John, hope to see you around this winter!
Serpico 26 Nov 2009
In reply to TimS:
What about Ibbo?
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> Also Cubby can go in, I have a feeling he did a long Font 8A traverse??

Beetle back? Not sure this is 8a anymore?
TimS 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico: Not sure about E8 as when he was down int peak he was only really interested in doing stuff GU. Done the other 2 obviously.
 David Peters 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Robin Barker (probably).
 catt 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Andy Earl? Does he do sport? Sure he'd piss an 8a.
Niall McNair? Ground up E8, in the mountains. Font 8A? Pretty sure he will have.
Alan Cassidy

I know a couple of randoms as well that have probably done it, so I strongly suspect the number is much bigger than you might think.
In reply to catt:

> I know a couple of randoms as well that have probably done it, so I strongly suspect the number is much bigger than you might think.

Of course, we mustn't forget the legions of dark horses who always crop up on threads like this.
 David Peters 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: John Welford (probably)
 220bpm 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Stuart S:
> (In reply to Keeg)
>
> Cubby has done E8 and F8a. Not sure about Font 8a, but wouldn't be surprised...

What about McNair and Cassidy? Only unsure about the 8A boulder for these two.
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Robin Barker (Font 8A?)
Andy Earl definitely
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Alan Cassidy (likewise)
John Gaskins definitely
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)

47

Welford is already in
Adam (Lincoln) have you done E8?
Name and shame (or cover in glory) your unknown dark horse friends if you're sure they've done the triple.
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Ali Kennedy - certain,
Irish guys?
Eddie Barbour - not sure he's done 8A yet, but can't be far off
Si Moore? surely!?
Ricky Bell - does he sport climb and boulder? or just do hard trad at fairhead?

sorry, not too helpful throwing names out without certainty really is it!?
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: your 50 is in great peril but will we top the ton?
 David Peters 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Robin Barker (Font 8A?)


Must have done Stamina Band, can do PowerBand in trainers whilst eating a pork pie and singing the national anthem
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
OK here's the current list of everyone suggested (I think):

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury (What E8 has he done, I thought he just did highball Font 7C's?)
Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)
Pete Hurley (has he done Font 8A?)
Ben Heason (has he done Font 8A?)
John Arran (has he done Font 8A?)
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finishto Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker (I assume he's done Font 8A)
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
Nic Sellars (Font 8A?)
Tom Briggs (Font 8A?)
John Welford
Mark Katz
Ben Bransby
Nick Dixon (Font 8A?)
Cubby
Andy Swan (Any routes??)
Robin Barker (Font 8A?)
Andy Earl
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Alan Cassidy (likewise)
John Gaskins definitely
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)
Adam Lincoln have you done E8?
Ali Kennedy
Si Moore
Eddie Barbour (Font 8A?)
Ricky Bell (sport? Font?)

52 But there are quite a few less than certain entries there. Can anybody clear up some unknowns?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
> (In reply to Keeg) your 50 is in great peril but will we top the ton?

I think several of our entries need firmer confirmation than they currently have before I accept that my guess of fifty was way out. Did I say about 50 or less than 50 I can't remember...
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Ah, I said less than 50. I may be wrong there but I think it will be in the fifty-ish ballpark.
 Eagle River 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

What about Rupert Davies? I'm fairly sure he's hit the sport and boulder grades, not so sure about trad though...
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Adrian Berry if slingshot is 8A. may have done more 8A's anyway?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Eagle River:
He's easily done the sport and bouldering but trad I dunno. Stick him in.
53.
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden:
Adrian Berry can also go in.
54
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
But only 24 that are definites (although several of the others are near certainties).
Serpico 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Neil Bentley?
Stuart Cameron?
 WB 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: johnnyy dawes? John cooke...
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:
Bentley (Font 8A?)
Stuart Cameron (don't realy know much about him)

56 but still only 24 definites.

Can people sort out any of the uncertains??
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to WB:
Johnny Dawes (Font 8A?)
John Cooke, really when did he do that ;O)

58, 25 definites.
 chris_j_s 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Further suggestions...

Dave Barrans
Johnny Dawes
Neil Dickson
Seb Grieve
Ben Moon
John Redhead
Simon Nadin
Serpico 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Serpico)
> Bentley (Font 8A?)
> Stuart Cameron (don't realy know much about him)
>
Cameron did F8A and Fr8a, but wasn't there also a rumour that he onsighted/ground-upped some E8 years before it was fashionable.

Serpico 26 Nov 2009
In reply to WB:
> (In reply to Keeg) johnnyy dawes? John cooke...

Pretty sure that Dawes never did Fnt 8A.
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to chris_j_s:
Dave Barrans (trad? sport?)
Neil Dickson (sport? Font 8A?)
Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Ben Moon (E8?)
John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Simon Nadin (E8?)

64, 25 definites.

 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Keeg)
> [...]
> Cameron did F8A and Fr8a, but wasn't there also a rumour that he onsighted/ground-upped some E8 years before it was fashionable.

I was fairly sure he'd done E8 but didn't know about the other two so he's a definite.

64, 26 definites.

 Tom Briggs 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Tom Briggs (Font 8A?)

I've done Staminaband if that counts...
TimS 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg: Neil Dickson has done Overnite Sensation and Zoo York
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to Keeg)
> Adam (Lincoln) have you done E8?

No, i need to pull my finger out. I'll upgrade snatch


 Chris F 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to Keeg)
> [...]
> Cameron did F8A and Fr8a, but wasn't there also a rumour that he onsighted/ground-upped some E8 years before it was fashionable.

Something at Gogarth, if memory serves

 long 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris F: Extinction
 Si dH 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Cooke: Nice one John!

It's great to see that you can go out there and climb at that standard while still working and spending some of your weekend days out climbing classic E2s with Ali - gives me hope that it's possible to get 'good' at climbing without being totally committed to hard climbing and nothing else! Maybe I'll make E3 one day...
 chris_j_s 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Dave Barrans (trad? sport?)
sport - Magnetic Fields, trad ?? poss 'only' E7 onsight

> Neil Dickson (sport? Font 8A?)
both ticked.
Sport - Overnight Sensation, Predator
Boulder - Zoo York as mentioned above

> Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
> Ben Moon (E8?)
> John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
> Simon Nadin (E8?)
Probably good calls on the above - I felt sure Ben must have done E8 but when I come to think of it no route names spring to mind!

Andy Popp 26 Nov 2009
In reply to chris_j_s:

The only 8A I know of Nick Dixon doing was an FA at Nesscliffe - doesn't mean it isn't though or that he hasn't done others.

I'm a frustrating half font grade off (and with diminishing chances of rectifying this gap). Can I compensate with E7/8 ground up? No, thought not.
In reply to UKC News:

Pete Oxley?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to everyone:
Staminaband counts Tom, you're in the club
Also Neil Dickson is in.

Just been through the list and split it into definites (or fairly definite) and not so sures (which doesn't mean they haven't, I just don;t know).

32 Definites, still a way off 50

The Definites:

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finish to Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker (I assume he's done Font 8A)
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
John Welford
Mark Katz
Ben Bransby
Nick Dixon (Assuming Nesscliffe prob is Font 8A?)
Tom Briggs
Robin Barker
Andy Earl
Ali Kennedy
Si Moore
John Gaskins
John Cooke
Stuart Cameron
Neil Dickson

The Not Sures:

Cubby (Font 8A?)
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury (What E8 has he done, I thought he just did highball Font 7C's?)
Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)
Pete Hurley (has he done Font 8A?)
Ben Heason (has he done Font 8A?)
John Arran (has he done Font 8A?)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
Nic Sellars (Font 8A?)
Andy Swan (Any routes??)
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Alan Cassidy (likewise)
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)
Eddie Barbour (Font 8A?)
Ricky Bell (sport? Font?)
Rupert Davies (E8?)
Adrian Berry (Font 8A)
Neil Bentley (Font 8A)
Dave Barrans (E8)
Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Ben Moon (E8?)
John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Simon Nadin (E8?)
 Tom Last 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Mark Edwards? Font 8A?
In reply to Keeg:

> Ben Heason (has he done Font 8A?)

He did one of those long things in the Rave Cave in Oz, however, there is a danger that mentioning this will lead to another 140 posts n whether this is a route or a boulder problem.......
 Tom Briggs 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

I know Bentley has done The Joker and Sam Whittaker has done various Font 8as e.g. Neverland.
 chris_j_s 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Bizarrely James McHaffie isn't on the list yet. He is a definite on all counts.
 galpinos 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Keith Bradbury (What E8 has he done, I thought he just did highball Font 7C's?)

He replied further up the thread (as pascalbrown) saying he'd done all three.
 catt 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Cassidy - Requiem and Sabotage(8A+?) at Dumby, and lots of sport to 8c
 Tom Last 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

What about Chris Cubbit?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to galpinos:
> (In reply to Keeg)
>
> [...]
>
> He replied further up the thread (as pascalbrown) saying he'd done all three.

I know, I was being a little tongue in cheek. He has climbed Cornelius which was given E8 however he ground-upped it above several mats and described it as highball 7C, it seemed a bit high for highball to me from photos but hey-ho. I don't know if he's done other E8's.
 dirtbag1 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Ahem!
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
Staminaband counts Tom, you're in the club
Also Neil Dickson is in.

Just been through the list and split it into definites (or fairly definite) and not so sures (which doesn't mean they haven't, I just don;t know).

34 Definites, still a way off 50

The Definites:

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finish to Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
John Welford
Mark Katz
Ben Bransby
Nick Dixon (Assuming Nesscliffe prob is Font 8A?)
Tom Briggs
Robin Barker
Andy Earl
Ali Kennedy
Si Moore
John Gaskins
John Cooke
Stuart Cameron
Neil Dickson
Neil Bentley
James MacHaffie

The Not Sures:

Cubby (Font 8A?)
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury (What E8 has he done, I thought he just did highball Font 7C's?)
Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)
Pete Hurley (has he done Font 8A?)
Ben Heason (has he done Font 8A?)
John Arran (has he done Font 8A?)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
Nic Sellars (Font 8A?)
Andy Swan (Any routes??)
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Alan Cassidy (likewise)
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)
Eddie Barbour (Font 8A?)
Ricky Bell (sport? Font?)
Rupert Davies (E8?)
Adrian Berry (Font 8A?)
Dave Barrans (E8?)
Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Ben Moon (E8?)
John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Simon Nadin (E8?)
Chris Cubbit (E8? Font 8A?)
Jamie Cassidy (E8?)
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to dirtbag1:
If you want to go on the list you need to update your profile
 Tom Last 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Chris Cubbit's done The Zone.
 galpinos 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> (In reply to galpinos)
> [...]
>
> I know, I was being a little tongue in cheek. He has climbed Cornelius which was given E8 however he ground-upped it above several mats and described it as highball 7C, it seemed a bit high for highball to me from photos but hey-ho. I don't know if he's done other E8's.

I wasn't sure if you knew it was him. It's very annoying when people have diffent names on UKB to UKC............
 Jamie B 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

You might be interested to know that I applied the Scottish VIII test to your list, and Dave MacLeod is the only confirmed name on your definates. There are 5 other possibles amongst the definates, and amongst your possibles Cubby has obviously done VIII, but I'm less sure about Neil Gresham. Has Tim Emmett bouldered or redpointed 8a?
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to Keeg)
Has Tim Emmett bouldered or redpointed 8a?

He has redpointed 8a, not sure about bouldering 8a though...

 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> Liam Halsey (has he done E8?)

You can add Liam as a definate, he has done E8. More than once.
 beh 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to Keeg)
>
> You might be interested to know that I applied the Scottish VIII test to your list, and Dave MacLeod is the only confirmed name on your definates.

Birkett has done VIII.

 Jamie B 26 Nov 2009
In reply to beh:

> Birkett has done VIII.

I suspected he had, but which one? Likewise Haston and Dixon? Tom Briggs did Unicorn with Andy Benson, but not sure if he led any of it? And Mick Ryan reckons Editor Jack has lead VIII, but he must have kept it low-key.
 JR 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

pretty sure barrans hasn't done E8
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
In reply to JR:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> pretty sure barrans hasn't done E8

He onsighted E7 this year, and pretty certain he hasn't done much hard grit since.

 beh 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to beh)
>
> [...]
>
> I suspected he had, but which one?
Quick google gave me - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=26800, he must have done a good few.
 Andy Farnell 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Nic Crawshaw (bloke who run's Ratho) has done sport and font 8a, not sure about the E8 though.

Andy F
 john arran 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> John Arran (has he done Font 8A?)

Never tried one.
Just as well really - I would fall off. A lot.

Done 5.8 though, does that count?
 Jamie B 26 Nov 2009
In reply to beh:

> he must have done a good few.

Nah, you assume that because he's dead good and he does hard winter routes, but a good few? It is still a very elite club who have led more than one grade VIII; fewer than 20 Brits I reckon.

 beh 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to beh)
>
> [...]
>
> Nah, you assume that because he's dead good and he does hard winter routes, but a good few? It is still a very elite club who have led more than one grade VIII; fewer than 20 Brits I reckon.

Aye, I do assume, didn't turn up much else searching beyond an unspecific mention of him having done VIII on one of his sponsors profiles.
 pascalbrown 26 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News: For the sake of historical correctness, Rich Simpson is definite. I've climbed an E8 near Matlock. This was back when E8's were routes and not highballs... no mats in sight...

Keith
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to pascalbrown:
Thank you sir, I hoped you would be back to clarify. The numbers are growing. I'll rehash the list in a bit.
 doylo 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

Pete Hurley has done The Art of Self Destruction, that gets Font 8a.
 Ram MkiV 26 Nov 2009
In reply to pascalbrown:
> (In reply to UKC News) For the sake of historical correctness, Rich Simpson is definite

Is that a definite onsight of the zone? Or just a definite of the 8 triple?
 Keeg 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
39 Definites, getting closer to 50

The Definites:

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finish to Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
John Welford
Mark Katz
Ben Bransby
Nick Dixon (Assuming Nesscliffe prob is Font 8A?)
Tom Briggs
Robin Barker
Andy Earl
Ali Kennedy
Si Moore
John Gaskins
John Cooke
Stuart Cameron
Neil Dickson
Neil Bentley
James MacHaffie
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury
Liam Halsey
Ben Heason
Pete Hurley

The Not Sures:

Cubby (Font 8A?)
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Tim Emmett (Font 8A?)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
Nic Sellars (Font 8A?)
Andy Swan (Any routes??)
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Alan Cassidy (likewise)
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)
Eddie Barbour (Font 8A?)
Ricky Bell (sport? Font?)
Rupert Davies (E8?)
Adrian Berry (Font 8A?)
Dave Barrans (E8?)
Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Ben Moon (E8?)
John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Simon Nadin (E8?)
Chris Cubbit (Font 8A?)
Jamie Cassidy (E8?)

I've removed John Arran from the list as he has categorically stated that he hasn't done Font 8A. The others can stay on the maybe list to prevent them being repeatedly suggested until definitive (i.e. a bit more convincing than "I'm pretty sure X hasn't/has done Y") knowledge puts them in or out.

Also Jerry is in on a presuption on my part about a route I've not looked at so a bit of clarification on whether he should be in or out would be nice.
 Ali 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Si dH:

> It's great to see that you can go out there and climb at that standard while still working and spending some of your weekend days out climbing classic E2s with Ali


What do you mean? Dragging me up E2s is great training....











for me!

Seriously though ticking font 8a last night is pretty impressive considering he's been spending most evenings and half of weekends recently painting the house! Fingers crossed he stays injury free
 abarro81 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

> Alan Cassidy (likewise)
French and font, don't know about E8 or not.

> Eddie Barbour (Font 8A?)
No, Ed's far too fat and ugly to climb 8A.

> Ricky Bell (sport? Font?)
Done F8a, don't know about Font.

> Adrian Berry (Font 8A?)
What does the start of blind vision get nowadays? That used to be 8A but seem to remember Pete Robins downgrading it?


 dave o 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:

waving the NE scotland wullie, i reckon these 3 chaps have done the '3 8s' challenge

Tim Rankin
Gordon Lennox
Ali Coull

or if they haven't actually done it they have very nearly. Gordon and Tim have done a few E8's, they have all done F8a, but not so sure about the bouldering

i've done none, and that has been confirmed by witnesses
 Adam Lincoln 26 Nov 2009
Rather than suggesting anymore 'might have's', why don't we keep it to 'certains' to avoid confusion.
 matt perks 26 Nov 2009
In reply to John Southworth: Pete Oxley had done E8 and F8a (not OS but both as first ascents) by the early '90s but bouldering maybe only V10, which I believe is F7C+, but I could be wrong about what bouldering he has done. Just keeping his name in (or out, maybe) to big up the Dorset scene really, and his achievements in particular, since both are under-rated.
 dave o 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

apologies for posting something of questionable accuracy on UKC of all places!!

 UKB Shark 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Rather than suggesting anymore 'might have's', why don't we keep it to 'certains' to avoid confusion

In that case I won't mention Sean Myles..
Wrongfoot 26 Nov 2009
In reply to Ali and John:

I'm loving the list of John's illustrious contemporaries... most of whom I'd feel awkward about approaching, talking to or climbing with unlike Mr Cooke.

I'm well chuffed for you John, a little bit of news that's truly brightened my day.
 Si dH 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to Si dH)
>
>
> Seriously though ticking font 8a last night is pretty impressive considering he's been spending most evenings and half of weekends recently painting the house! Fingers crossed he stays injury free

Haha, hope the diy is going well - I know the feeling. Perhaps he can get himself in a video to pay for a painter?

 Tom Last 27 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Think you should definitely have Mark Edwards in the 'not sures', he's done E8s, E9s and I'm sure he's done F8a, don't know about the bouldering though.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> It is still a very elite club who have led more than one grade VIII; fewer than 20 Brits I reckon.

I was thinking Birkett did Gimmer Crack as well, but some googling revealed that it is "only" VII,8.



 Chris F 27 Nov 2009
In reply to dave o:
> Tim Rankin
> Gordon Lennox
> Ali Coull
>
> or if they haven't actually done it they have very nearly. Gordon and Tim have done a few E8's, they have all done F8a, but not so sure about the bouldering
>
> i've done none, and that has been confirmed by witnesses

Kayla is hovering around the 7c+/8a mark? In which case Tim is definitely in.

Good that people post things like this, so other people with differennt knowledge can confirm or deny, Adam.

And I can confirm as a witness dave o has done none.

 Adam Lincoln 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris F:

> (In reply to dave o)
Good that people post things like this, so other people with differennt knowledge can confirm or deny, Adam.

I suppose
In reply to Keeg: Miles Gibson
steve webster 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden:

swanny has done many routes.i think he's onsighted f8a he used to be on the comp lead team.he's also done alpine routes,ice/mixed routes as well. as for trad i know hes done stuff like the bottom line e6? at brimham.
 Chris F 27 Nov 2009
In reply to steve webster: Darkhorse Neil "Ding Dong" Dyer.

Has he done E8? Pretty sure he's done 8a and F8a.
 Souljah 27 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:


Pretty sure Andi Turner's done the tripple 3...Justin Critchlow's probably done the tripple 3 too... not sure about the sport route tho!
 peewee2008 27 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Pete Whittaker?

hes done E8/9

and his sister Katy?
 Jon Read 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Souljah:
Not sure Andi has ticked E8. Justin probably hasn't the attention span for a F8a tick, though Ultimate Sculpture would probaly count as E8 and F8a.
If anyone knows a very easy font8a I'll get up...?
 Stuart S 27 Nov 2009
In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Keeg)
>
> [Alan Cassidy (likewise)]
> French and font, don't know about E8 or not.

Cassidy has done Requiem, so that's his E8 tick.

 Adam Lincoln 27 Nov 2009
In reply to peewee2008:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Pete Whittaker?
>
> hes done E8/9
>
> and his sister Katy?

Katy has done 1 of the 3.


 Jamie B 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Chris F:

> Kayla is hovering around the 7c+/8a mark? In which case Tim Rankin is definitely in.

And he has led at least one grade VIII, making him only the second confirmed member of the "4 x 8" club.
 abarro81 27 Nov 2009
In reply to Keeg:
> Eddie Barbour (Font 8A? Looking like a no)
Sorry, my above abuse of Ed was supposed to be confirmation you can scrap him from the list of maybes - he's not done 8A.

> Tim Rankin (I no nothing about this chap, but 7C+/8A doesn't quite cut it)
Tim gave Kayla was 8A with the original holds/sequence but it hasn't been repeated like that so unconfirmed(and I think was his first/only 8A) - the start hold broke leaving a better one and an easier move. There was some controversy/debate as there's an easier version at a grade easier, but the original was supposed to have rules.

> Gordon Lennox (I no nothing about this chap)
Can confirm Gordon's done E8 and 8a (and 8b) but don't know if he's done 8A.

 Keeg 27 Nov 2009
44 Definites (but feel free to check that you agree), getting closer to 50

The Definites:

Dave Birkett (E8 onsight)
James Pearson (E8 onsight, Font/sport 8 flash)
Ryan Pasquil (E8 flashes)
Jordan Buys
Ian Vickers
Gaz Parry
Kevin Thaw
Leo Houlding
Ste Dunning
Ste Mac
Jack Geldard
Dave Mac
Malc Smith
John Dunne
Stevie Haston
pete robins
Jerry Moffatt (assuming his finish to Renegade Master makes it E8)
Sam Whittaker
Neil Carson (I assume he's done Font 8A but don't know)
John Welford
Mark Katz
Ben Bransby
Nick Dixon (Assuming Nesscliffe prob is Font 8A?)
Tom Briggs
Robin Barker
Andy Earl
Ali Kennedy
Si Moore
John Gaskins
John Cooke
Stuart Cameron
Neil Dickson
Neil Bentley
James MacHaffie
Rich Simpson (onsighted E9 possibly??)
Keith Bradbury
Liam Halsey
Ben Heason
Pete Hurley
Sean Myles
Miles Gibson
Neil Dyer
Alan Cassidy
Tim Rankin (but another Font 8A would be nice)

The Not Sures:

Cubby (Font 8A?)
Dan Varian (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Ned Feehally (What E8? Highballing Superboc with a sea of mats can't count)
Stu Littlefair (what E8?)
Stew Watson (What E8?)
Adam Mulholland (dunno anything about this person, sorry)
Tim Emmett (Font 8A?)
Neil Gresham (has he done Font 8A?)
Ron Fawcett (Not done E8, anybody?)
Nic Sellars (Font 8A?)
Andy Swan (E8?)
Niall McNair (dunno anything about him)
Lucy Creamer (Font 8A?)
James Ibbetson (I assume that's Ibbo? Has he done E8?)
Ricky Bell (Font 8A?)
Rupert Davies (E8?)
Adrian Berry (Font 8A? Start of Blind Vision is, I think, 7C+)
Dave Barrans (E8?)
Seb Grieve (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Ben Moon (E8?)
John Redhead (fairly sure he hasn't done Font 8A)
Simon Nadin (E8?)
Chris Cubbit (Font 8A?)
Jamie Cassidy (E8?)
Gordon Lennox (Font 8A?))
Ali Coull (I no nothing about this chap)
Pete Oxley (Font 8A?)
Mark Edwards (Font 8A?)
Andi Turner (E8? Probably not?)
Justin Crtchlow (Sport 8a?)
Pete Whittaker
 nb 27 Nov 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Shurely a true mountain 8s challenge would include skiing a 5.3 couloir and doing an 8 sec freefall off an 888ft cliff. That'll get the numbers down!
 Offwidth 01 Dec 2009
In reply to Keeg:

You can add Dan Bradley.

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