UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_793-74799...

Morning FitClubbers!  Delighted to take a hand at the stats after a great stint from Liam who is now able to focus more seriously on his weighted pull ups.  Given the handover, it made me reflect on whether the three-monthly handover cycles works for a periodic reconsideration or restatement of goals?  I appreciate some people do this every week, but I (for one) could do with revisiting those that I set up earlier in the year so I have done so in my post for this week.  I invite others to do the same at this halfway point of the year.

Also, Alan and others suggested a Cromlech meet at some point, Steve has also made me think about a return to Avon (for which many of us have the badge) and Tyler put a shout out earlier in the year for the Moelwyns (which Planet Marshall clearly took seriously).  These were interesting ideas, but am aware that summer is upon us.  Is there any appetite for a loosely put together meet somewhere?  Let me know in your weekly post and I will follow up accordingly.

Stats:

Ally: Sounds like a rough week stricken by a raging virus.  Cleaning the board is always a start – it’s similar to buying a shiny new bit of equipment as a motivational tool!  Hope you get back to training soon and onto your Mayfair wall project.  Pen Trywn is on my list of must visits, though I think I am saving it for Autumn…

Randy:  Staying healthy is an impressive start in India and going to the gym in the current temperatures is seriously dedicated and probably a good recipe for returning leaner (without the usual technique of employing Delhi belly or whatever your local version would be!  People do say that the challenge of stomach upsets reduces with each visit, so hopefully you are in the clear.  Presumably you have taken your fingerboard rig along for the trip?

Liam P:  Sorry to hear about the knee injury and hope that the planned treatment does the trick.  I got a niggle in my knee running yesterday which was frustrating at the time, but seems to have improved today.  Weights on the pull ups are impressive – I have tried these, but not very seriously.  However, pretty sure I couldn’t shift sets of six at 12.5 kg!  I do occasionally do fingertip pull ups as a measure – I used to do sets of ten in the old days so occasionally crank five to remind myself of the pain!

SSB: Good going on the 7c’s – it seems clear that they are falling more quickly for you (second session, but close on the first).  ‘Got better’ is hard to call sometimes – it can just mean a mix of confidence, conditions and psyche – I guess in the end it doesn’t matter if the goals are hit with more regularity.  Are you still keen for Cratcliffe or have the sport targets understandably taken over?

Sheep: Another solid set of swims and runs culminating in an ‘absolute belter’.  Great when it comes together and feels like more distance would be fine.  I get quite a bit of wildlife on my early morning outings, including deer on the canal towpath and it always inspires the next outing.  Free bars always a useful training aid and one that I do feel qualified to advise upon!  Enjoy the half-term trip!

SteveJC94:  Weather hasn’t been that reliable so hope that you have managed to build on a good start in Lewis.  It seems like a few Scotland trips recently have been forced into changing plans because of weather conditions.  I look forward to plenty more three-star ticks to make the long haul north worthwhile.  Good that shoulder issues are not causing too many problems.

JayK:  I’m not very up on PE, though plenty on here will be.  I do know that plenty of good people regard it as the most neglected area of training for many.  Lattice have quite a good write up on training aerobic power and anaerobic capacity as two mechanisms that contribute – I’ve linked it in case it helps.  

https://latticetraining.com/2019/01/14/training-series-power-endurance/

Quite impressed with your definition of ‘take it easy’ which I would class as a top week!  Aberration while feeling rough is going some.  Hope recovery is now complete.

Ross Barker:  For one, I’m not sure what no-hanging is, but good work improvising and getting something different done when it is easier not to bother.  A slightly frustrating tour around North Wales bouldering destinations, but glad it ended up ok.  Love the ‘bulletproof’ goal and have reflected that when younger, some aspects did feel a bit like that – finger strength and stamina in particular.  How are you training ‘bulletproof’ fingers – presumably with a hand gun?

Steve Claw:  The rope solo stuff is impressive.  I used to be fairly good at getting out in lunch breaks with a shunt, but I don’t do any nowadays despite living five minutes from an ideal venue (New Mills).  I really should make more effort to train on rock when I have a moment, but I guess I would rather solo easy stuff on Stanage.  Great progress on your projects especially after a previous try-hard day.  I’m sure it will go down soon.

AJM:  Good to see that work on ZOM is close to success.  I’m intrigued by the beta refinements as practice isn’t something I have ever done, so it is fascinating to think that there can be so much to gain from repeated efforts.  Not sure that easy bouldering at Froggatt and Stanage will contribute to the send, but hope the weather has given you some decent windows.  It has been an odd week of weather, but quite nice at times.

Alan:  Good work on wildlife avoidance strategies.  I do love coming across a wild boar (in theory at least), but suspect that focusing on the mountain bike challenges is enough of a concern.  I like the slight tone of desperation in the revisited goals.  It has made me reflect on my own!

Grand beau temps failed again hey?  Shocked to hear that anything at Arco resembles a second-tier Peak crag!  I spend as much time as I can away from Peak sport simply because I prefer scenery as part of the day and some of the Peak is really in scruffy holes, along with some poor rock really.  I guess I should get back down into Chee Dale for the sport at some point.  Restaurants in Italy… reminds me of lunching in a village near Turin and watching a bank robbery through the window (it was over in two minutes) while we scoffed pasta.  Good progress with some mileage anyway – keep it up.

Tom Green:  Good trail running.  I think I’m doing okay adding the odd ½ km to my trot, but 17 odd km is a good distance averaging 6.50s.  I’ve only been to Pex once, which is odd as I really enjoyed it at the time, though Phil Davidson was there at the time making everything look like a complete path.  I guess it was always a call in on the way by sort of place and it is now a bit far for a speculative trip.  Definitely remember the unique style!  Progressing well with your annual goals I’d say.

Biscuit:  Yet more evidence that when planning trips with Biscuit it may be worth taking back-up kit for paddling!  Hope the exploration was inspiring anyway?  Llanymynech is a decent spot isn’t it?  A lot of the routes look pretty impressive, though after a few I think they would feel a bit similar.  You’re aware of the ‘every route on red Wall in a day challenge presumably’?  I know of four people who have completed it (Gary, John Dunne, Phil Davidson and Dave Greenald).  Every time I go, it rains, so I have a few to clean up.  Red Wall must be out of the ban shortly.  Quite a way for you though?

Reading back a post, I was intrigued by the day on Raven, Thirlmere.  Did you do the rest of Totalitarian?  Also agree that getting out climbing can easily undo the gains, especially if you have a few non-descript days mixed in.  However, as you say, it can turn around in an instant – one route than goes easily should do it.  Choose carefully on the 24th!

Tyler:  Following up week 792 for the sake of continuity and transition…  Good effort at LPT.  I like the redpoint guidance provided to Liam and developed again in your post this week – I’m like him and spend my sport climbing time onsighting, so it definitely helps.  Particularly like your comment about not feeling comfortable with the clips and runouts first time - I had always assumed this was me being a bit scared so reassuring that it is normal!  I went to World’s End a couple of years ago and had a really good day – a lovely spot.  I’m keen to go back at some point.

Planet Marshall:  Didn’t spot a post this week, but pretty sure you are up in Lewis, so probably preoccupied with all that world class rock instead.  Again, back one week to preserve some continuity…

Good work at Staden.  Does Mozaic Piece have micros like Paraplege or is it completely without gear?  Agree with the bouldering thing – if you don’t get back on things you are effectively relearning everything and movement is a subtle thing anyway.  I like the weekly goal stating method – shorter and more focused than restating the annual plan.  I might try this as it is possible to take account of work and weather each week before stating some goals (see following).

I think that is everyone and can only apologise if anyone has been lost in transition!  Have a good week FitClubbers!  Let me know if I've missed anything.  I'm away in Guernsey next weekend, so probably won't post until Monday afternoon, unless I get super-organised.

Firstly, I'm not away in Guernsey next weekend - it is the one after that!

A reasonably good week of training;

M 5 sets of max hangs - 2 @ 20.5 kg. 2@ 21.6 kg the one at 22.7 kg.  5x5 pull ups.  5x10 push ups.  7.5 km run.

T 5 km run

W work, but 5 sets max hangs @ 22.7 kg on return, 5 x 12 push ups and 5 x 6 pull ups.

T  7 km run

F - partying

S - repeat of Wednesday though did pull ups as a short pyramid - 5, 6, 7, 6, 5 for variety.  

No climbing this week.  Weather and availability didn't coincide.

This week's plan;  continue with three training sessions and three runs, stepping up gradually.

Climb easy sport on Monday to support a friend's rehab - first time on rock after a bad leg break.

Tuesday aim to get a day on trad.

Revisiting original goals - Weight loss been achieved and some!  Training has been interrupted by niggles, but picking up again and planning to maintain throughout summer.

Grit goals - none of my targets yet and really I am putting these aside until Autumn, unless opportunity comes along.  However, I think I will be going well enough to get them done with a bit of readjustment to grit's characteristics.  Simply prefer to get out of the Peak when I can.

Also haven't done any Peak limestone trad yet, but am keen to do so over the summer.  I think I am well on the way to getting on routes at the standard of my target ones, but will likely do some stuff to build a solid platform before getting on things that have waited forty years!

Haven't been to Llangollen this year, but the season is here now.

Haven't projected anything, but have onsighted 6c this year, despite not getting out much early on.  I am looking at trad really, but if I end up with a sport day, then I intend to push on.  I would still like to get back to Attermire, Trow Gill, Moughton Nab, Langcliffe, Stony Bank and so on, so I think I'm likely to have sporadic sport days over the summer.

Hey everyone, good first week on the stats, Derek. Probably not a bad idea to have a quarterly "how are the goals coming along?" question!

I think some people refer to them as fingerboard-pickups, but it's hanging weights off a portable hangboard and then picking them up off the ground.

Yep, started with a Nerf gun, now progressed to a BB gun. Hoping by next month to graduate from plastic to metal pellets.

I think the way for me to do it is to do some regular fingerboarding, as I never really stuck to any sort of routine. They seem to be my weakest link, so if regular max hangs or density hangs strengthen them, I can finally start having non-finger weaknesses and injuries instead

An interesting week for me. Picked up some more weights, sent a project, had a nightmare, explored a new venue.

Last Week:

M - No-hang-not-quite-max-hangs. 30kg, 5x10s, 2 min rest. Found the occasional rep surprisingly close to the limit, I think the edge of the hold doesn't quite nestle into my pinky DIP and makes it feel more like front-3 half crimp!

T - Rest. Weigh in at 76.3kg.

W - Bus Stop (f7B+). Wahey! Quick work today, thank you Tyler for the spot. Tried a few moves on a few other problems but they were all a bit desperate. Car then broke down just outside Llanberis, with a 9 hour ETA for recovery. Oof!

T - Ended up closer to 11 hours. Rest.

F - Rest.

S - Bala Boulders. Cool little venue! Tried L'appel Du Vide (f7B) which had a very perplexing crux indeed, I had just about given up until I demonstrated some "beta that doesn't work" and stuck the move. Then had a huge rest, stuck it from the start but was thwarted by a foot pop. Too tired to do it again. Will return!

S - Rest.

Next Week:

​​​​M - Rest.

T - Weather looks ropey, so likely finger bulletproofing followed by The Dug Out?

W - Rest.

T or F - Same as Tuesday, maybe?

S, S - Off on a non-climbing holiday but will try and squeeze a pad or two in the car.

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers.

Bus Stop. Tick!

Cheers Derek. Bit of a depressing realisation we’re half way through the year and I’ve hardly been climbing. Probably a good idea to tweak my goals as the only real progress I’ve seen was on the Rjukan trip when I had a week of purely concentrating on climbing. Mixture of living miles away from anywhere, busy in work, and having a young nipper makes it pretty impossible. Almost want to sack the whole thing off for a while but figured I can still train hard in the hope that I get more time to get any form of currency back in the near future. 

Goals at the start of this year:

• Lead WI4 - Tick
• Numerous 3* Scottish Winter routes - a comedy of cancelled trips due to weather and the baby being ill (see ‘didn’t even make it!’)
• Numerous 3* Alpine routes - Unlikely with the latest knee diagnosis.
• 7a Sport - Can’t get out regularly enough to get fitness/currency
• 7a Boulder - Same as above.

Only possible progress I can see is via training as it’s easy enough to squeeze an hour in after bedtimes. These goals were:

• 2RM Weighted Pull-up 175% - It’s coming..
• Max Hang 20mm 5x 12s 133% - Getting close…
• Bent Arm Planche - Tick straddle not straight leg
• Front Lever - Haven’t trained it this year
• 1-4-7 - Finallly got back on the board so maybe…

Mon

Pull Strength

• Weighted Pull-ups 3x 5/6/8 @ 24.5kg/13kg/2.5kg

Tue

Leg Rehab

• RDL 5x 8 (40kg)
• Calf Raises 3x 35
• SL Leg Extension 5x 15 (5kg)
• SL Leg Press 5x 15 (35kg)
• Knee Raises 3x 12
• SL Glute Bridge 4x 16

Sun

 Pull Strength, Fingers & Stamina

• Finger pull-ups 10mm 3x 3
• Weighted Pull-ups 3x 5/6/8 @ 25kg/14kg/3kg
• Campus Longmoves 4x 1 (1-4)
• Campus Ladders 2x 1-3-5
• 4x 40moves on 6a Circuit Wall 

Thanks for stepping in for the stats Derek, a great detailed summary. All things considered, last week was pretty special with a week filled full of 3 star routes on Lewis.

M - To wet to climb so opted for a 30k bike ride of Achmore. The Hebridean crosswinds really are as bad as everyone says! 

T - A day out at The Pool Walls, with highlights including Pond Life (E2 5c), Flannantastique (HVS 5a), Pool Shark (E1 5b) and Southern Comfort (HVS 4c). Though getting rained on halfway up the last one wasn't too fun...

W - A very special day out in Aurora Geodha and Magic Geodha, ticking off Star of the Sea (E1 5b) (the shoulder didn't like the mantel on this!), Newton's Law (E1 5b), Limka (E2 5b), Campa Crack (E1 5a) and Flannan Crack (VS 4c).

T - Some more sea cliff excellence with Gravity Man (E2 5b), Chicken Run (E1 5c), Flannan Slab Direct (E1 5b) and a first ascent to the left of Flannan Edge (E3 5c) which I've named The Edge of Sanity (E2 5b). 

F - Last day blues were settled by an excellent day out at Dalbeg. Captain's Log (HVS 5a) and the superb Limpet Crack (E3 5c) were ticked off, though I was disappointed to get 25m up Neptune (E3 5c) only to find the top groove sopping wet - one to go back for next time I'm up there!

Plan for next week:

M/T - Rest 

W - Easy routes to see how the shoulder feels pulling plastic after a week on the sea cliffs

T - Off to see a shoulder specialist to try and get to the bottom of my shoulder issues

F/S/S - All dependent on the outcome of the previous days appointment, but hopefully moving into the power phase of my training plan

Thank you Derek and welcome as the new Master of Ceremonies, and a good detailed start.

I've been away this week so I'm going to call it a rest week.  However, the one day climbing was an Avon visit by SSB.

Monday - Avon trad with SSB, who was keen on the Extreme Rock routes.  I've done them before, so graciously gave him the O/S leads on Krapp's Last Tape (E3 5b), Think Pink (E3 6a) and we swung leads on The Preter (E2 5b).

I did also try to go ground up on A Profusion of Pink (E6 6b), and did well to pass the crux second go, however I was feeling really underpowered in the left forearm following the mega DOMS from 4 days before, where I had over done things.  As the route clearly needed another day, I promptly moved on so we had time to do The Preter.

Tues - Managed a quick sport route 6b+ between work and rain.

Thanks Derek, a strong start to your stats stint. I am very keen for cratcliffe, I didn't want to hound you incase you weren't keen and wanted a way out! June is pretty busy for me (wife's 40th, small swedes 6th and our 10yr anniversary) so I'll get in touch when I might be able to get out. Am I right in thinking you can't do wkends but could do a mid week eve?

Good idea to restate goals. I don't think I actually stated mine in the first place. This year I'd like to get more consistent at font7C and aim to tick one a month all year (got 6 so far so all on track), I also wanted to do some trad aiming for routes from either classic, hard or extreme rock depending on what's available and who I'm with (so far done 4 I think). The last goal is to tick my annual 8a sport route (no progress yet as only done 'tick in a day' sport climbing but expecting to get on this from late August, managed a 7c+ first session out which was incouraging).

Its been an odd half term week this week. Mrs Swede has been in Ibiza for birthday celebrations with her girly friends so I took the kids down to Somerset to take advantage of some Senior Swede babysitting. 

Mon. Met up with Steve at Avon. First up was Krapp's Last Tape (E3 5b) which was pretty steady. Next up was Think Pink (E3 6a), I found the crux hard and tried several combinations of poor holds unable to find anything good and eventually deployed some finger strength at these before I got too pumped. Belayed Steve on a project of his then headed to The Preter (E2 5b) which Steve and I swung leads on. I found the rock scar and subsequent loose bit unnerving and would have given this E3 and KLT E2 but I guess it was never really that hard, just a bit scary. Big thanks for Steve for the tour of his turf! 

Tues. 24km cycle. 

Wed.  Sand Point session. Id planned to do the classic 7B prow but quickly realised I'd need more than one pad so did a selection of easier stuff with the highlight of Little Bighorn (V6). 

Thurs. 24km cycle and drive back up north to meet a returning Mrs. Swede. 

Fri. Rest. Walk with kids (birchen and gardoms) and impromptu camp out at Eric Byne. 

Sat. Morning walk with the kids (Robin Hood, Chatsworth Edge, Gibb Edge, Empourer Lake) then shunt session at Stoney as my partner was away. Did Scarab E6 6b clean on the shunt after some working. Might go back for the lead in a couple of weeks. I notice in the comments lots of climbers better than me have pre places the gear and I can see why. Its good but you'd be placing it blind which is a level of danger I'm not up for. French7b climbing on 4 micro wires is spicey enough for now I think! 

Sun. 5km run

Well, fingers crossed, but I've a friend who spend more than one session falling off at the end of the redpoint crux and never got it ticked!

I definitely enjoy the process of things coming together, it's cool to see things go from impossible to getting links coming together 

No, I'm not sure Zinc and easy grit have much crossover, in either direction!

On the way home now. I got a taste of all the things I wanted to do I think - I did a solitary trad lead (Bel Ami (VS 4b) at Curbar), I did a bit of easy grit soloing (Heaven Crack (VD), Amazon Crack (S 4a) and stuff), I got to see some friends (including Ally, and Rebecca who is ex of the fit club parish), I got both miniAJM and microAJM on a rope swing, and I did a bit of easy bouldering. It's fair to say in my head I was going to do a lot more of each, but in my head the weather was going to be warmer and drier which would have reduced the faff of family psyche management and provided more opportunities. 

Just over 2 months to Frankenjura now, so ought to think about training plan for that really this week. 

Potentially keen for an Avon meet.

Goals are below. I don't really think I've ticked anything, but I can see progress on some of them.

- Hamstring and finger tweaks have definitely taken a toll on the stretching habit, on the face on board climbing and on the boulder projects (both of which have a reliance on the right hamstring, one a toe in on a key foothold and one because it's an entire series of right heel hooks)

- heading in the right direction in terms of sport climbing with progress on Zinc which is the right quality bracket and just outside the grade range at hard 7b+

- I've done a single trad route, but everything's got to start with a first step

Outdoor climbing

- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute

- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast

- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again

- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.

- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Indoor/training

- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.

- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.

- Try to build a stretching habit

Life

- less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!

- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

Thanks for the update! Really appreciate the time that goes into this. Look forward to having a read of that article. I've just made a fingerboard station next to the home board. Setting up a pulley system, so hoping to be able to complete some max hang sessions (1 and 2 armed). Managed my first 7C+ since 2018 this week. Definitely feeling in much better shape at the moment. Hoping to continue this vein of form despite the increase in workload until the start of July!

M - Outdoor bouldering

T - Rest day

W - Outdoor bouldering

T - Run (10k)

F - Board session. Felt battered from Wednesday so took it relatively easy. Finished with 5 sets of 8 pull-ups and press-ups. 

S - Drove to Wales

S - Run (14k) drove home from Wales

Motivation comes and goes, for all sorts of valid reasons. Sometimes a maintenance approach can just be enough to keep you ticking over for when life allows. It’s surprising how little you need to do to keep in shape.

Thanks Derek, great detail and thoughts. Many thanks to Liam for the last few weeks.

Good point re the goals. My goal was to ‘get better’ at trad this year after many years of neglecting it. I did 2 or 3 E3’s last year but i can’t put a goal on trad really. It’s never worked in the past. However all my plans for tradding lots have failed so far this year and it’s June already.

So I have drawn up a ticklist of E2’s and 3’s. BUT they are only to guide me to those crags. if i get there and it doesn’t feel on for whatever reason I’m happy to not do them. I can’t push trad in that way. It has to happen on it’s own for me. 

M - Stretch, shoulder rehab (rotator cuff issues), knee rehab (knee cap pain on big walk issues). 

6b continuous climbing - 5 mins x 2 - felt surprisingly easy. Maybe climbing outdoors doesn’t lose your training gains?

T - Preston wall - boulder comp problems 1-20. tried a bit hard but just did what i needed to get me into the final this weekend.

W - Shoulder and knee rehab

T - Gormenghast (E1 5b). I’ve done it before so did the last pitch. I’d forgotten how good that pitch as. Sadly not warm enough for a dip in the Esk after.

F - Shoulder and knee rehab

1 hr run

S - Rest

S - Lakeland league grand final. Very fun afternoon. Came 3rd in old man category. Happy enough with that.

This week I am going to kilnsey on Tuesday and then Wales at the weekend if the weather looks OK. Shoulder and knees are on the mend.

And i’m keen for a meet. I’d likely need a few weeks to sort it.

My preferred would be 12=14th August.

By the way, this non-climbing holiday is in Newquay, so if anyone has any reasonably easy access bouldering recommendations that'd be much appreciated.

I'd be keen for a meet as well, though more for North Wales or the Peak than Avon, being a boulderer!

In the old days, the bog wall at Avon was for bouldering, but I don't think it exists now 😁

It's still there 

Morning Derek, thanks for the detailed stats.  No lurgy this week :-D

I'd be keen for a meet up later in the summer:

- Cromlech trad has little appeal as I'm not sure I could fudge my way up Resurrection or Lord with current (calf) stamina and gear placing finesse.  Pass bouldering could be good though, and has the benefit of being day trippable for me.

- Avon/Cheddar for a wknd would need some extra planning, but there's plenty to tempt me down to the SW with stuff on the Wave/Pride Evans I'd like to try and a couple of safe Avon E6's I didn't do when living in Brizzle.

Week 22

M – Disturbed night. Some gentle shoulder engagements.

T – Crimped max-hangs; BW +45kg. Board “hour of (no) power”: fudged my way up a soft “7C”. Even managed some core afterwards. 30s kneebar intervals. Brief isometric bench.

W – Rest

T – Peak District pub lunch and off-road pushchair walk with AJM et al (finally found some new walking boots that fit from Outside)

F – Board after Trafford centre shopping trip. Good session doing a bunch of non-benchmark 7A-B’s (even though most of them were graded 7B+/C). Finished with a recently added benchmark 7B+ “Parrot”.

S – 31km flat ride during Squiggle snooze

S – Only chance to get out over the Jubilee weekend and I end up with the worst weather possible. Cold, rainy and 90% humidity so I didn’t bother trying any of the local rainproof options thinking the humidity would have crapped them out. 90min board session. Plenty of ~7B non-benchmarks (even if they were all graded 7B+ to 7C+). Finished with 3x 7/3/6/3 35kg rolling thunder lifts on each side (left arm was toasted!)

Very happy with the strength side of things at the moment, but need to get back some stamina for projects on the Orme (2 newbies near, but not on Mayfair wall) and same for Devil's gorge.

A few vert boulders at Avon, e.g. Connoisseur's Choice, Sit-start (f7A+) and lots of short "bouldering on a rope" type things, e.g. Millimetre War (7c) that have virtually zero stamina requirements.

Thanks for picking up the stats Derek, excellent start

Had a bit of a motivation breakdown this week. Stressed at work, tired and rather demoralised from too much driving and not much climbing last weekend. I looked at the weather forecast & decided to sit this weekend out. Still, keeping things ticking over, and I do have something to look forward to in a couple of weeks - see new STG

STG: Return alive from Munich DAV Elbsandstein meet in two weeks
MTG: 2022 climbing?
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    Fingerboard, continuing the back to basics, natural open-hander learns to crimp programe.
    A total of about an hour on the bike on various errands around town.
T:    
W:    Fingerboard, sand bucket, stretching
T:    Wall, Weyarn. Autobelay aerocap mileage, 12 routes ~400 moves. Felt ok during the session but surprisingly tired afterwards
F:    Bike 2 hours. Went into the woods late afternoon in the hope of avoiding the evening thunderstorm. Nearly succeeded.
S:    Bike 3 hours. This time the evening thunderstorm didn't materialise, although unsurprisingly lots of mud from yesterday. Realised that I'm really enjoying riding twisty, windy, bumpy singletrack in the woods, and find straightforward gravel road riding to get between the bits of singletrack basically tedious. Definitely no roadie in me, and maybe a full suspension downhill bike looming somewhere in my future. (Need to get the off piste skiing sorted first though, I have neither the time nor the money to pursue two expensive new sports simultaneuously. Not to mention the injury resistance)
S:    Rest

Indeed. In contrast to the scruffy holes, Cheedale is one of the most scenically beautiful spots I can think of. I much prefer the rock in the Frankenjura, but it's lacking in giant rhubarb

Thanks for raising the Cromlech idea. I still have to finalise family visiting plans for the summer, but it looks like I might be over late August/early September.

Add me to the "fond memories of Avon" list from my undergraduate days, but tbh I don't think my head would be in order these days for limestone sloper shuffling with the occasional dodgy peg.

Is your phone number still the same as it was a few years back? I keep meaning to get in touch about our Frankenjura trip, let you know when we will be around. I'll drop you a WhatsApp if so...

Still the same phone number, and would be delighted to meet up. When are you over? August is looking pretty busy for me, nothing much planned at the moment in July.

Revisiting '22 goals:

1) Stay happily married and be the best dad I can. 

Going well :-D

2) Have a whole year of healthy elbows, shoulders, hips, knees and fingers (i.e. keep up plenty of conditioning and (p)rehab)

Physically in good shape, but my immune system has taken a beating!

3) Climb 3x new sport routes of 7a or harder

2 FAs so far for '22, with Sinful Life (7b+) and Fancy Pants (7c) climbed on the same day in April with hms.

4)  ≥Bodyweight 1-handed dead-hang on the BM2K lower middle rung (good aim as it’ll need improved shoulder strength, some weight loss and of course, increased finger strength)

Cheekily checked this whilst warming up yesterday and could do 3 sec with right-arm and 2s with left; a bit of work to do yet.

5)   ≥8a+ redpoint (preferably a newbie)

Only had 2 days sport climbing, but kinda hopeful I can get the tick here with one of my remaining bolted projects

6)   ≥8A+

This might be hard...

Thanks for the stats Derek. I've got lucky and managed to stay healthy during the second week and i am now back in germany. Two of my colleagues were not that lucky and got some stomach problems during our stay so i am quite glad that i did not caught any bug. Maybe one reason for this is that i am vegetarian, which limits the chances for food poisioning quite significantly.

I don't think that i got back any leaner, despite the heat. It was rather a challenge to not gain a couple of pounds, as every day started with a big breakfast buffet at the hotel and ended with a big dinner. In the end i only managed to keep my daily intake below 3000 kcal by skipping lunch every day

Recap last week:

Mon: Rest

Tues: Fingerboard Repeaters: 20mm Edge, 6x 6x7,3 at 97,5 % bodyweight, 2x10, 7 pullups; Got gready with the pullups after the last session, but i had no chance of completing 4x10s. I also have the feeling that doing pullups after repeaters when your forarms are still trashed makes them a lot harder.

Wed: L-Sit 2x10s; handstand against the wall, 2x10 lunges, 10 bodyweight squats, 30 pushups and 30s V-Sit Up; legs were somehow still completely destroyed

Thurs: Fingerboard Repeaters: 20mm Edge,6x 6x7,3 at 100% bodyweight; 4x8 Pullups (bodyweight)

Fri: Rest (arrived back in Germany at lunch time, after flying during the night)

Sat: Volume Bouldering Session at Elements Bouldering. Sent around 15 boulders with difficulties ranging from 6a+ to 6b+, probably half of them were flashes and the rest i did in 3-4 tries. Tried a couple of harder problems, where i quickly walked away after i noticed i needed to project them more seriously. Finished the session with 4x10 pullups.

Sun: L-Sit 2x10s; handstand against the wall, 2x12 lunges, 2x12 bodyweight squats, 30 pushups and 30s V-Sit Up; legs were feeling much better

Quite happy with the week. Got in a bunch of good training despite the traveling and recovered very well from the long flight. I also have the feeling that i am getting closer to my pre-covid shape with every session. Another 1-2 weeks of good training, then i should be more or less there. 

@Derek I really like the idea of checking in every quarter on the yearly goals.

Here is my status report:

Sport Climbing:

• Finally climb my multi-year project: Slimline (8a+):  Had a bunch of sessions in march. Did not feel much progress and currently this feels like a huge longslot, but one never know what happens if one keeps trying.
• Climb 7c in one session; Flash 7b; Onsight 7a: Tried neither of these goals due to Covid and frequent India trips. But at least the 7a Onsight should be doable if i just try a bunch of routes.
• Have more than 50 outdoor sessions: Unless i quit my job, no chance

Training:

• 7s single arm max hang on 20mm egde with 95% BW for right and left hand: Did not really improve my finger strength since last year, but gained a couple of pounds so this will be rather challenging
• Finally do a one-armer with both hands and good form: Was on a good track untill i got Covid. No it feels again like a long way to go.
• 10s Handstand with good form: I don't think that much is missing. Did than more than 10s a couple of times already but using the wall to get into position. Probably just need to try it a couple of times without a wall and get lucky once
• 30s L-Sit on the floor with good form: Similar to single armer i was on good track till Covid. But i have the feeling that this should be doable till the end of the year with even a little bit of margin.

As Derek suggested, taking the opportunity for a mid year reflection on goals & priorities

Anybody who has been paying attention to my FitClub entries will have noticed that I have barely climbed so far this year: my focus was on skiing up until Easter, and on mountain biking for the last feew weeks.

The skiing is at least mountaineering related, particularly since my goal is to get good enough to go touring. And given that this was my second season, with 100% more experience I'm much more proficient and confident than I was at the start of the year - gotta love those noob gains. I can get down most pistes steadily and in control except for a few properly black black runs, although even tiny little off the side of the piste excursions still feel very wobbly. Choosing to extend the ski season at Easter instead of starting the climbing season was a toss-up, but on the whole I'm glad I did. Was much impressed with Kaunertal (having only been there once before years ago), and I've found a ski school there that does a three day beginner off piste course that I'm thinking of signing up for in December.

And the bike? Couple of things. I can be in the forest twenty minutes from my front door, which is a refreshing change from burning hours of time and diesel to get to a crag. I feel the need for more movement than sport climbing provides to help shift my stubbornly persistent lockdown weight belt. And the twisty bits and the downhill bits are great fun (the straight bits and the uphill bits less so)

But at the end of the day, rock climbing is still at the core of what I want to do. Also: my son says he wants to go to Kalymnos again this autumn, and at nineteen I have to face the possibility that this could be one of the last times he ever wants to go on holiday with his dear old dad. Definitely worth getting fit for. Better start shifting the focus back in that direction again then.

Hi all. Thanks for statting, Derek. Strong start!

An ok week, though derailed by life: trying to get work wrapped up before heading on hols.

Week 22:

M: Boukdering at Harmers Wood. Finally put to bed a long term grudge match: Leppert's Leap (V4) it isn’t big, hard or even close to being a classic, but I haven’t been this chuffed to get a problem ticked for a long time!

T: Trail run. 20.9km, 665m vert, 6:26/km. Fantastic couple of hours. I normally feel like I’m shuffling on my Z2 runs, but I felt like I was bouncing along on this one!

W: Elbow and shoulder prehab.

T: Nothing.

F: Nothing. (Short walk, no weight -essentially junk miles!)

S: Climbing at Hutton Roof. A revisit to fill in gaps led to over from when it was a regular evening solo circuit. Soloed 16 routes, up to VS. Wimped out and used a pad below Roof Route One (E1 5c)

S: Walking/scrambling but probably little training effect!

Week 23:

Main goal is to run the Colonsay McPhies. Secondary goal is to not be too slothful on the other days.

STG -end June:

Arc en ciel -TICK!

Ultra distance hill run. 

Eight of my big mountain day list (at least two on consecutive days). (1/8)

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees).

MTG -end Sept:

Two big alpine routes.

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink) -TICK!

ALL of my local must-do list: 1/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 1/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 2/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

Late summer/autumn alpine trip

Cheers Derek,

A much shorter report than normal for a couple of reasons. No1, we were away for a family holiday so not as much exercise planned anyway. No2 unfortunately it combined with picking up a bit of a side strain so natural lay off too!

Had a nice gentle swim with the kids and gentle run with the youngest but that has been about it.

It looked to be fairly gearless from what I could tell, unless you put siderunners in Charas.

Last week
-------------

Saturday

Drive to Ullapool, Ferry across to Stornoway

Sunday

Some fairly wild weather with strong winds from the North. Did a few routes on  Aird Mhor Bhragair and started experiencing a lot of pain in my shoulder. I have a long-standing issue with my left shoulder which was possibly exacerbated by the long drive. It was also pretty poor conditions in which to warm up.

• Sleeping Dogs (VS 4b)
• Le Slot (E1 5b)

Monday

Another fairly foul day - decided to rest the shoulder completely.

Tuesday

The weather is now forecast to improve throughout the week. Did the excellent The Legend of Finlay MacIver (E1 5b) and the (hilariously overgraded) Pool Shark (E1 5b)

Wednesday

Shoulder is starting to improve but by this point have pretty much given up on leading anything above E2. It's now pretty much wall to wall sunshine but with the winds from the NE and most of the crags facing West they take a long while to dry. Led Sea Dog (E2 5b), which is definitely the highlight of the week but didn't get on it until well into the afternoon.

Thursday

Good day and most productive of the week climbing with Steve. 

• Flannan Slab Direct (E1 5b)
• Chicken Run (E1 5c)

Friday

Last chance to do a route from the ticklist, headed to The Bernera Prow (E2 5b). Was really too tired for this though - had a bit of "gear paralysis" despite it being a crack climb with numerous gear placements and took a big (though harmless) fall. Climbed like an arse. Didn't feel like getting back on it but was starting to regret that decision later in the day. One to come back for.

Saturday

Ferry and long drive home.

Previous Week's goals.
--------------------------------

The main goal of the week had been to do The Prozac Link (E4 5c) but I'd pretty much given up on this when my shoulder started presenting issues. Part of me wishes I should have gone for it though. Next time.

Next Week
--------------

See the physio about my shoulder. I expect I may be easing off from climbing for a few weeks, though some trad should be mostly fine.

Wow!  It looks great!  Very inspiring indeed.  A more considered response to follow on Sunday.