UKC

Merry Easter all, hope you didn't eat tooo many chocolate eggs!

 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

 

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_574-6813...

 

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

 

mrchewy: Hows Catalunya treating you?

Powderpuff: Elbow progress this week? Is it golfers or tennis?

mattrm: Pushups iffy on the wrists? If so maybe you could try the 3/4 point straight plank position to build strength back (+core!) https://www.uphillathlete.com/how-to-do-core/

Si dH: How was rest and skin growth week? (I wonder if there is a way of measuring/quantifying skin condition…)

AJM: Hope you have found some weather windows in the forest?

AlanLittle: Always good to get new knowledge from specialists! Good to hear its not too serious an issue. How did it go in Font?

Ally Smith: Congrats, not a bad week at all! You made that 7B look like a massive jug rail, looking solid in the video!

cyan: Hoping the knee issue didn’t turn out too serious? Is that something you have a history with?

Tyler: Good to hear you felt good at Malham, sounds like a good confidence booster!

MauraLorrissey: Tell us about van shopping!

Dandan: Bronze medal and a cash prize, not a bad day out! I bet you would have preferred an X2 though? Appreciate the comment on Grand Larceny- will avoid!

hms: when you say core routes- do you mean the hold manufacturer core (volumes?)

Tom Green: I didn’t see your ‘next week’ plan until now. I was planning on doing split squats and box steps for max strength, but after a couple of sessions realised they are more ‘technique-y’ and don’t allow me to go anywhere near 100% without risk of falling over etc. I’m going to carry on doing them as supporting exercises because I feel they work the stabilisers really well in quite a sport specific way. Instead I’m doing session 1 front and back squats, session 2 deadlifts and bench press (plus weighted pull-ups, hang clean and press, and front lever progressions in both). Hill sprints should be a good replacement as well.

planetmarshall: Sounds like you need to find yourself a good audio book and get in the easy cardio groove! How is the XC skiing?

Brodes: Sounds like a great week of training for you, sounds like psych is high? Make sure you do take the recovery time you need every couple of weeks- don’t burn yourself out!

the sheep: Let’s just call it a deload week

Climbthatpitch: Squats are quite a technical weight lift- there is quite a bit to learn in order to really engage the whole of your leg muscle mass and drive through your core etc (as opposed to deadlifts which are pretty much brute strength). Box steps I’ve found to be a bit of a funny one because you can use momentum from both your legs to help a lot- I have to be very strict with myself to keep form. 

planetmarshall: Looking forward to seeing what you have planned for the rest of the year. Plenty of time to get z1 in before summer.

Ardo: Enjoy Provence, Bones and I strongly considering joining that trip so keen to hear how you get on

Richard Popp: Your worries about the moonboard with your shoulder- is that because of the general problem style of swinging out/cutting loose a lot? If so, sounds like an idea to gradually build confidence in those kind of moves? (maybe even just noting when other problems include that style?)

Just Tintin: Thanks for the podcast link, will get that on the running playlist for the week. Was it photos of you we had through the door in the pages of Summit? 

biscuit: place names in the lakes sound so foreign!

guy127917: lazy bones, get back on it!

Bones: Mate… just read this back to yourself a few more times… “my running and endurance is definitely improving as is my bouldering”

 

AWOL: the fasting, Andy Nelson

 

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy - another poor week of training for me - climbed just twice this week with virtually no other exercise. Good results though...

M - Cave after work. Lat sore when warming up. Headed up to Breck Road and did a bunch of things from 7A to 7B including a 7A on sight and 7B flash.  Very productive and now keen for the full traverse. Quick play on The Wire resulted in a shock high point...

T through F - eff all exercise. Combination of wedding tasting, starting packing and end of financial year deadlines killed most free time. Very rare for me to not find some time in a whole week. 

S - Back to the cave. Warm up then RP attempt at The Wire. Another highpoint falling from the foot rejigging of Broken Heart. 2nd go was same hand move but resulted in a comedy explosion off the undercut. 3rd go YYFY! The Wire (V12) really made up with this. Powered down on the end but with a confidence inspiring spot finished it off. Really want to repeat it with my Almost familiar finish now. Some footage exists but mostly shows spotters milling around! 

S - quick 7 miles of road riffs around a muddy Tatton park before Easter lunch and egg hunt. Belly ache now from eating too much...

 

In reply to guy127917:

Merry Easter!

Thanks Guy, this is super useful - nice one.

Hmmmm - you mean because I am improving? I assumed it was because there was an error but I can't see one so it must be that! Ran just over 30 miles this week including one half marathon distance run, so that was good!

Having so much fun bouldering at the moment. Now need to put the same non-competitive focus on ropes.

I feel like I have been transition training phase too long now and I need to go on to base phase and some max strength work. I have totally been putting off going to the gym for three weeks and I think it is because I have just become bored of doing the same exercises over and over. Plus I love max strength stuff! Although I haven’t read up on this yet the next week will look something like this:

Base phase - week 1 plan:
Aerobic activity - 367 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stepper) time - 277 mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Max strength sessions - 2

Benchmarks:
Boulder grade max: V4
Lead climb max: 6c+
Top-rope max (it does count): 7a
Weighted pull-top max: 8.75kg x 1 rep
Max bench press: tbc
Max dead lift: tbc

Monday: z1 10 mile walk in London. Then evening flat run 8.67 miles, 1:34hrs (10:52min/mi), avHR 162bpm maxHR 183bpm (z4-1%, z3-92%, z2-5%, z1-2%)

Tuesday: rest

Wednesday: Lead climb session with a short fall practice session whenever Guy shouted “drop clip!”. I am building it up slowly - this session I fell when next to or under a clip with a little extra slack. Was a fun way to do it and I will spend more time on this next lead session. Then some bouldering - really enjoying working problems at the moment and have been very close to a couple of V5s.

Thursday: rest

Friday: flat run 13.31 miles, 2:32hrs (11:26min/mi), avHR 165bpm maxHR 179bpm (z4-3%, z3-94%, z2-2%, z1-0%)

Saturday: bouldering at Red Spider near Portsmouth. Great session - routes felt pretty easy up to V4 and then suddenly seemed really hard but I don't think it'll be long until V5 is within my grasp. Fingers feeling really strong. Need to work on power, crimpy overhangs and high, tiny slab moves.

Sunday: hill run 8.04 miles, 1:45hrs (13:04min/mi), avHR 169bpm maxHR 194bpm (z5-4%, z4-25%, z3-61%, z2-9%, z1-1%)

LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1

MTG:
The Matterhorn 
Lead 30 x VS trad routes
Lead 5 HVS trad routes
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
Run a trail half marathon
To complete the TFTNA training plan base phase
Goals for Australia in September tbd

STG:

To enjoy lead climbing, top-rope a little more on harder grades to take some pressure off and have fun - yes
Fall practice each rope session - yes, did by the clip on Guy’s command
To plan my week every Sunday - yes
To keep a record of benchmarks in climbing and gym work - yes

 

In reply to Ally Smith:

Bon effort

In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy, skin is in good shape for Font thanks. 

M/LTGs from April: 7B in Font, Eastwood Traverse, Mentalist, Caviar

M: Did 3 sets of 10 bicep curls each side with my 8kg kettle bell. Otherwise rest. 

T: board session at the Climbing Unit. Did one 7A+ then tried a 7A for a while that was (much!) harder.

W: TRX, usual 4 shoulder exercises.

T/F/S: rest/travel.

S: First day in Font! Had a good day. Did two problems I had failed on when ill last year: Tentation (f7A) and Vis a Vis (also 7A) at  Rocher des Souris.

Dieted pretty well earlier this week and got weight back down to 74 kg on Thursday night before leaving home.

Si

In reply to guy127917:

Apparently so! That’ll please my grandma... 

In reply to Ally Smith:

Undeniable beast!

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Core as in boring crunches, planks etc. Got a few reasonable sessions in this week but all indoors. Household stress levels running extremely high, which doesn't help psyche much.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. FB in evening: 10/3/5/3 at BW x 6 on lower row edges, then 7/3/1/6 x 10 on big slots. 
W - cycle commute. Desultory bouldering at Redpoint, then autobelay. Blocks of 8 x 3.
T - cycle commute.
F - TCA, first time for ages so everything was new. Concentrated on the 5+ to 6b set although as ever it seemed rather weighted towards the top of that range. Umpteen I can't do, somewhat annoying.
S - 2 miles urban walking. Core session. Wrist curls and weighted pinches. Shoulder presses. No TRX as the washing machine was in the way!
S - back to TCA, trying a purple set left over from a recent comp. Had good fun, quite a lots of tops or near tops. A few totally eluded us though. Then half a dozen problems on the Mothership. Skin finally gave out. 

 

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers guy. 

Only one training session this week, Wednesday. Skin preservation and packing faff got in the way of anything else. But it was a very good session. I made some progress on a white I’d tried previously -made a couple of new moves, hampered slightly after that by the new comp problems which had whacked a massive volume above a foothold - probably too hard anyway but it’s an excuse! Then I went campusing, and hit 1-4-6 with both arms on both the slopers and the medium sized rung. Very pleased. Then I got on the board, and it was great. I didn’t do any new moves on Dandans problem, but I felt more in control, more powerful and more able to keep my feet under control than ever before.

Ferry on Friday morning to Font, spent the day travelling basically.

Saturday we got 4 problems done at 95.2 before it started raining. Went down, had lunch, did shopping, all that. Managed to nip back up to 91.1 late in the afternoon, drying up, managed to sneak in a fairly high 6a and Red 17b (Le Flipper) (f6B) which I saw people on the first time I visited Font and sort of always fancied a go.

Sunday it was wet first thing so a walk to Gorge aux Chats. Cleared up after lunch so back to 95.2. Spent ages on a nominally 5+ prow, classic Font experience. Then got on Tentation (f7A), 6C+ in some guides and 7A in others, and managed to tick it off in 3 goes. Very nice problem. Comparable to some easy 7As I’ve done (raises questions doesn’t it!) but Si is taking the grade so that works for me. 

A showery start but pleased with this afternoons work. Obviously with the rest of the week ahead there’s plenty of chance to get on something harder but getting a quality tricky problem in today was very good. Tomorrow looks good, then maybe another showery period, before hopefully another decent window towards the end of the week.

In reply to guy127917:

STG: Have a good time with my son in Font, and maybe even get a decent tick or two, despite the previous weeks' illness and consequent lack of training

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Font. Rocher Canon again. We are staying in Bois-le-Roi so it's our local crag, and we like it. 

T: Rainy rest day in Paris

W: More rain. Wandered gaping in amazement around the Carrefour hypermarché.  

T: Font. 91.1 & Cul de Chien in the morning; managed a couple of reds at Cul de Chien (although not *the* red at Cul de Chien). Quick dash back out to Rocher Canon in the evening for the lad to tick his proj moments before the next lot of rain arrived. A successful end to the holiday.

F: Wasn't *actually* raining in the morning, but had been in the night and was generally grey & damp. Contemplated trying for a quick couple of hours' hit at Trois Pignons before the long drive home, but in the end just opted for the long drive home in the rain.

S: 

S: Three weeks of nothing followed by a few days of tiptoeing up Font slabs: time to get some strength back. To Boulderwelt for a moonboard session. Felt shockingly weak; managed to tick a 6B+ on the new big red jugs but it was definitely soft.

So, Font. My first time there for over thirty years, first time on rock of any kind for five months, and I was ill for three weeks beforehand to the point that I was seriously wondering whether I was going to be able to go at all. And iffy weather - rain three days out of seven. Given all that it turned out remarkably well. Didn't do anything spectacularly hard, but got some good movement on rock in, and more importantly my son had a great time. His first holiday in France, and a big step in the direction of weaning him away from only being interested in plastic bouldering.

In reply to guy127917:

Monday: 45mins run at lunch, 95 minutes run in the evening

Tuesday: 45 minutes run, skipped out on gym session

Wednesday: Had to miss lunch run due to work incident, mediocre routes + bouldering session (tried an 8a+... I cant climb 8a+!)

Thursday: First gym session in 2 weeks, got into it eventually. Did core routine, incline back + front squats, split bench squats, bench press, hang cleans, weighted pull-ups. Had the worst burger of my life in the evening which made me feel awful.

Friday: 2:32 run

Saturday: Should have done some post run stretching yesterday and eaten less of my mothers baking... a couple of hours bouldering at Red Spider- performed pretty far below my best!

1:13 running 

Sunday: 1:43 trail run w/ 440m ascent. Second gym session- just front/back/split leg squats, weighted pull ups and dips, and core today. 

This was supposed to be a medium load week to get me back into the swing of the training plan to attack base phase. It worked pretty well- motivation was low at the start of the week and high at the end after a reasonable amount of work. Total 47 miles running this week, 2 gym sessions and two climbing sessions- no stairmaster but actually got some real elevation gain on the run today which is good. 

As I mentioned last week diet has been going badly recently, I've definitely put on 1-2kg in the last few weeks, which is impressive given the amount of calories I've been burning. I haven't been feeling so good climbing/bouldering either- probably related, and perhaps starting to see the limits of my #nospecifictraining regime in that area. I've definitely not been going over and above during climbing sessions to push myself, just making sure to do block leads for some endurance and bouldering to maintain strength and technique.

Next week will be more of the same- hoping to get out at the weekend for some more trail running and/or the first real rock of the year if weather permits! 

In reply to guy127917:

Cheer as ever Guy.

I blame the Vikings for all the foreign sounding names. Have you ever heard a local pronounce them? 

I didn't get a long ride in this week due to going away in the van with the kids, placement and weather. Couldn't bring myself to go out this morning in the freezing rain  I had a cool ride planned too. I did commute 3 times last week so roughly 120km with 2400m ascent taking the 7 day total to 200k and 4500m. The commute is a good one for training. Less than 6 weeks to the Fred now. Need to get on it. We have a hilly lakes ride planned (3000m+) and a long ride planned (100m+) other than that lots of commuting will be the way ahead.

I did the finals night of The Depot Winter league and by virtue of no one else my age being organised/bothered enough to do all 4 rounds and turn up to the final I won. Hooray!

This week I aim to do:

3 x commutes 

1 x longer ride 

1 x climb

1 x fingerboard 

3 x core/conditioning

I am feeling the need to do some training for climbing as well. Not sure if it'll happen or not (deffo not a priority) but I am feeling the urge so need to feed it in some way.

In reply to guy127917:

Hey Guy

It' golfers elbow which I get from time to time. Ive been trying to crimp less, openhand more and strech but I think its geting worse not better.

Just 2 sessions this week.

Monday: Tried some harder problems, climbed 2 of the v3-5 circuit to warm up, then manged to climb what was probably a 7a or 7a+ problem which was very enjoyable. Then worked a couple of harder problems.

Took me ages to recover from this session.

The other session was max hangs on my finger board at home.  4 max hangs on slopers and then the  same on the 3 finger open hold. Took it a bit easier than normal.

Need to improve my elbows this week!

In reply to Powderpuff:

You *have* to do eccentric curls for golfer's elbow.

In reply to guy127917:

Well, back the UK after a 22hr journey home due to a cancelled Ryanair flight and it's very wet here. So inspiring!

Summer Goal - Salbit West Ridge

Mon - Esquerra. Really bad asthma in the trees, later realised it was my hayfever kicking off for the first time. Went to tick what I think is the best 6b in Siurana but made it to only the 4th bolt, couldn't breathe at all. Then got on Es Algo 7a but same again, as soon as it got hard at the 4th bolt crux, all over.

Tue - Siuranella Sud. No trees thankfully. Belayed Marcín on la crema 7c+, he was so happy to tick it. Pure Siurana style. Before that, I had a go again at the 6b+. Arse kicked again but so much better than 2 years ago despite my bridging being poor. The shoulder finally complained on the 2 finger pocket and that was that. Hardest 6b+ I've been on anywhere.

Wed - El Falco, Arboli. Took sack but decided to walk, as the trees kicked off the bad breathing again. Walked to Siurana, l'Olla and back. 12k, 750m ascent in 2hr45min.

Thu - Walk. 20k, 850m ascent in 4hrs. Cornudella to Monsant summit via Sant Joan, to Albarca and back. A brilliant couple of hours on the direct ascent, comprising scrambling, via ferrata and relentless height gain. 265m in 1k in 18min. Felt strong.

Fri - Esquerra. Catch up with Catalan friends. Cruised up a 5+ that felt hard in January, shoulder was no issue on the crux and my balance was so much better after all the autobelay rainbowing.

Sat - cancelled flight, coach to BCN instead.

Sun - Fly home and caught up on sleep.

 

A good trip training wise but no so much for climbing - I doubt I climbed more than 75m in total. What I did climb when not asthma affected was a vast improvement on before. Huge, so I'm well chuffed with how things are going in the background. I've climbed my hardest climbs in the last 9 months despite all the injury stuff and I may not be strong like 3 years ago when I started the 8 month trip but I climb a whole lot better. Hope for the future then.

 

Hill fitness - it was a great week. 80km, 2700m of ascent and my legs kicked into gear. I really needed this and it was nice to really explore the area on foot. I've spent 4 months in Siurana this last three winters but I saw loads more this last week. Flipping great!

In reply to AJM:

Nice work with Le Flipper... beautiful looking problem. You've just reminded me that I've wanted to do this for ages. I might have to get an Autumn Font trip squeezed in!

In reply to mrchewy:

Good height gain, man!

In reply to Ally Smith:

The Wire? Boom!

In reply to guy127917:

Hi All. Thanks Guy -really useful comment re max strength for the legs. I'm always a little nervous of squats (front and back) because I'm never confident in my form being good enough to stop me buggering up my back. However, I've had the same thoughts as you about the splits and box steps -it's really difficult to carry enough weight to actually make it work as a low rep exercise. I should probably just work on the front squats.

Last Week:

A mixed week. Chuffed with my bouldering but a poor job of making time for long runs, so although on target for number of Z1s, I was off the volume for the week (110min instead of 130min).

M: Core and Max Strength 

T: Trail run (6.2km Z1, 7:05/km, flat, deep mud)

W: Hill sprints (3 sets of 4 x 8sec, 1:3 incline)

T: Climbing Windgather (118m of easy soloing up, and down, between downpours)

F: Rest

S: Bouldering Porth Ysgo (short but productive session, up to f6A). 30 min Z1 (walking, steep hills)

S: Trail run (5.4km Z1, 6:25/km, flat)

Next Week:

160min Z1

40min Z3

Core and Max Strength x2

Climbing x2

Don't forget shoulder prehab!

STG/Q2:

E1 on 3+ diff rock types Kayak (E2 5b) Easter Edge (E1 5b) Californian Arete (E1 4c) or any others from a pretty long list!

Boulder f6B in Lofoten

Sandstone trail in <10h

MTG/Q3:

El Cap Nose Day

Kyrgyzstan new routes

LTG/Q4:

North Face Original Route (ED1)

Jaz (D8)

Red 17b (Le Flipper) (f6B) 

In reply to Tom Green:

Californian Arete (E1 4c) looks like a pretty ballsy route. 

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for doing the stats Guy

I agree on having to be very strict. I have to try and lift myself off the floor slightly and pause then push with the one leg and I know when I start getting slightly tired my form goes and I push a lot more off my leg that is on the floor.

This week started off well, didn't run loads as I had a mountain day planned for Sunday. I had a babysitter sorted and the weather looked great (have not been able to get the both together in ages) and then I got up and had the lurgy. Thought that I will not go out and take it easy yesterday but I still have it today. Don't know if I should just push on tonight and go for a run or leave it.

M - Trail run 20.3 km, 10:10 min per km, 924 meters accent, Pushed slightly into zone 2 on this HR 137 bpm but did not eat all the way around and did not feel hungry at the end. Hoping that keeping my HR low on all these runs is starting to be beneficial.

T - Indoor climbing routes to 6b

W - Max Strength

T - Run 8km, 07:35 min per km, 126m height gain, HR 131 bpm

F - Rest

S - 50 min box steps 8kg pack,

     Max Strength

S - Lurgy

Goals Next Week

9 hours z1 activity

1 climbing session

2 max strength session

 

 

In reply to Tom Green:

Felt it too but I reckon it's better training for Salbit than messing around at my limit on limestone. 

Roll on the summer!

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes i do these after every session but maybe I need to up the volume.

Cheers

In reply to Powderpuff:

I found getting the load and angle exactly right to be more important. You need to exactly at that point of near-pain discomfort at the right spot - in my case at was with the elbow bent at a bit more than 90 degrees, and a lot of the time I used the other hand as the resistance in order to keep it at exactly the right level. Eccentric bicep curls as well as wrist curls helped too. 

In reply to guy127917: Thanks Guy. Although my shoulder is well on the mend I had touch and go surgery on a major tear just over six months ago, so i am wary of catching a hold at full stretch, especially on steep terrain like a moon board, though I suppose it has the advantage of spitting me off. I think there are new holds which might be more accommodating so will have a look.

This week was almost a carbon copy of the week before, including the frustrating weather, desperate to get out. Been quite  a struggle to fit things in with work and visitors and this coming week will be similar.

There is some aspect of my technique that is not coming back which is frustrating, not quite sure what it is but have a feeling it might be as simple as not moving my feet as quickly and confidently as I could. Anyway there are problems I can do and problems I cant, the moonboard could start to move this on, I found it helped my precision when I used it before.

M-Long work but managed yoga and fingerboard.

T-TCA, mixture of problems trying hard but not much progress.

W-Yoga and weights.

Th-TCA, bit of a rushed session 

Fri-Yoga, weights and weighted repeated (5/10/5) hangs-good, crimps felt solid with increased weight.

S-Long yoga

Su-TCA, bit out of sorts to be inside as woke up to sun, was fading by lunchtime. OK session but bit puzzled as to why not getting problems where I can do individual moves, not using feet well and holding back on some shouldery moves?

 

 

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy! Hope you and Jen had a rested week  

Van shopping is slow progress. I have decided to go for a cheaper van and add bits I need rather than paying for crap I don't need. It appears they are hot property at the moment. A cheaper van I wanted to look at last week was literally sold within half a day of it being listed on Gumtree. Continuing to look...

Such a great week. Started with a very sore back and ended the week ticking off two goals for the year, so I'm pretty happy. I decided (Jen told me) my climbing crew needed expanding so found a new climbing partner off the internet which turned out well. 

 

STG/Weekly:

*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - no progress

*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point (currently at 14) - top roped another 20

*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - 3 sessions - tick

*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - nope

MTG:

*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered 

*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by June

*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - TICK

LTG:

*buy a van by the end of 2018 - still looking 

*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18)

*climb a big wall before I'm 40

In reply to guy127917:

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy, I'd prefer an X2 only due to it's monetary value, all these crossover vehicles leave me cold, yuck.

A good week training wise, all sessions went to plan but the elbow has been grumbling in the background again, I'm still able to climb hard but I have to be careful not to ignore the grumbles lest it becomes worse again.

M: Aero Fingerboard; 7/3 for 10 minutes at 30% max

T: Conditioning; machine shoulder press, hanging shoulder depressions, low rows, reverse T's, prone IYT, rotator cuff curls. Indoor Boulder; 7 reps of hard problem with 2.5 min rest. 3 sets. Good session on woody problems, only started to fade at around rep 5 of the third set so a good level.

W: Dive Team Core; managed 80% of it this time, but it took over an hour! 480 core movements plus 8 min plank

T: Indoor routes; double reps at 7a+ with no rest, 6 sets. I pitched this a little easy, set 6 felt about the same as set 2, need to find a more suitable route.

F: Fingerboard; 1 arm hang on AA slot for 7,8,8,8,8,7 secs, 2 min rest between. done at -5kg Conditioning; rings low lows, reverse flys, prone flys, typewriters.

S: Portland, Blacknor Central; took it steady due to grumbly elbow, took the opportunity to fill in a few gaps in the logbook. The star of the show was The Chronicles of Vladimir (6c+) which was fantastic, super juggy roof to start then it follows an incredibly exposed blunt arete to a techy finish. The two bail out 'biners on the penultimate bolt were a worry but it wasn't too bad. 30+ metres of adventure climbing. Meanwhile Mrs Dandan flashed yet another 7a+ on toprope, this time I even failed to retro-flash it putting the rope up for her so it was no giveaway! She's getting too good...

S: Lower body flexibility

I'm off to see Huffy the physio today so hopefully we can clear up this elbow nonsense once and for all, Tom has dropped the intensity of this week's sessions to help give it a break too, this is all super cautious, I'm still able to climb at full effort, but I need to fix this before it decides to get worse.

STG: (last week)

* Remember to do breathing exercises on climbing days - FAIL
* 80% or more of 'dive team core' session - TICK
* 30 second handstand - FAIL

STG: (next week)

* Remember to do breathing exercises on climbing days
* 100% of 'dive team core' session -
* 30 second handstand 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef in May
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May
* Pick a lattice max moves target for May based on result from last test EDIT- Tom says just try hard!

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 41/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last  BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

In reply to AlanLittle:

Interesting to hear what worked for you, thanks.

I tried my wrist curls in a different way last night, used a kettle ball and knelt over an exercise bench.....elbows feel a touch better this morning.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for stats Guy. I'm going to sneak in the Bank Holiday Monday with this week as I just did my first 7b...

M - lazy 

T - completely didn't sleep so drove to the Peak at 2am to get trad gear. Had a short nap, did a Wirksworth WBL round (a poor 173), back to Oxford for work... Gave my 50th pint of blood in the evening, then collapsed in a heap.

W - S - sport climbing Mallorca. Tufa project was wet  but lovely to be out in warmer weather on rock getting the moves in. Yay for warm weather and limestone!

M - 7b RP. That's the first of the grade for me and a bit of a confidence boost as well as an MTG tick. Admittedly I chose something that played to my strengths (short, techy, fingery, powerful stand ups on tiny edges rather than needing span and endurance), but good to know that while on a bit of a climbing low, too much cake and shocking sleep patterns I can somehow pull that out of the bag. Feel reasonably sure that with good route selection 7b in a day in the UK is reasonable, and I could work 7b+/7c in a few sessions if I can find something that interests me enough! Also learnt some good lessons on taping, skin conservation and RP tactics. Better get training for trad season!!!

In reply to Just Tintin:

Are you me by any chance? Sounds like  it.

In reply to guy127917:

Thinking of heading up peakward on friday- anyone fancy joining me for some clambering or bouldering (or trail running for that matter)?

In reply to Just Tintin:

Congrats on the 7b!

In reply to guy127917:

We are hoping to be up by then, so keep in touch. 

In reply to guy127917:

The psych is indeed high, although I've had a much lighter week due to family holiday.

Booze: total weekly consumption of 12 pints 4% beer, or equivalent.

Exercise:

Monday. 9 miles bike. Otherwise rest.

 

Tuesday. 17 miles bike. 1hr CrossFit. 3 sets of hollow body chin-ups to failure (about 18 in total). 3 sets of 3 reps 80kg deadlifts. 12 min of push ups, sits ups, lunges and burpees. Leg and bum stretches. Felt pretty good at the end. No back discomfort.

 

Weds. 1.5 hr CrossFit gymnastics strength and conditioning. Tough core workout. Hand stands, and working towards muscle up. Every muscle in my body aches a little apart from biceps and forearms.  My annoying left hand side lower back muscle is sore again.  It tenses up when I squat low or do downward dog.

 

Thursday. 9 miles bike. BeastMaker 5B workout. Made it trough 1st 6 hangs at bodyweight. In the second set of 6 hangs I failed last 2 reps of slopers, last 3 reps of 3 fingers, last 3 reps of 2 fingers, and final 2 reps of 4 finger hangs. I comfort myself that I was wearing wet jeans (just cycled home in rain), so that added around 1.5kg in weight.

 

Fri-Tuesday. Family holiday to water park. Active, but nothing that could be called training. Relaxing. All aches gone, although lower back muscle still tenses up when stretched.

 

In reply to guy127917:

Cheers for the stats guy. 

Quick update from the airport before I get in my flight to Athens (first  climbing day at Kalymnos this Friday).

Nothing special to report from last week, usual BUK visits (one with son for first time ever, needless to say the gap in ability not that great, not sure what the 10,000 hours exponents would make of that!).

Weekend was a washout, managed a day on MO with no big links to report. Went to Depot where I seemed to find the reds easier than  usual, I suspect they probably are!

Weight below 10'10" for first time today. Making no predictions for Kalymnos as not done anything stamina wise since early Dec. 

In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 7lbs

M - 15 routes at the Rec

T - S - Nowt

S - 2 mile run

Not the greatest week, but at least I managed the climbing and the run.  Hopefully I'll keep that up next week as well.  The run was ok bearing in mind I've not run for months.  Looking at my diary, I've actually not run much since 2015, which is about right at 2016 was the year of flying and illness.  The climbing session was awful.  I bearly managed 15 routes.  A couple at the end were just 3+es, which wasn't great for the ego.  As for the push-ups, I suspect it's partly lack of exercise and partly weight, which meant they just didn't feel great so I decided not to continue with them.  Again, the aim is to climb and run once and do a couple of core sessions.

In reply to guy127917:

Late entry this week as only just back at working having been looking after the kids over the Easter break. None of the usual swim and cycle activity. Was able to pop out for a couple of 5k runs when the wife got in from work and had an afternoon at the bouldering wall with the kids which was great fun. 

Finished the week off with a brick session, 20km cycle into 5km which went well