Rockfax Description
The smooth wall left of the deep corner, linking ancient peg-holes via hard moves. The crux is reaching and passing the overlap, although the rest is no pushover. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Tom Livingstone 07/Aug/17 Lead dnf
MichaelGallimore 28/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Guidebook says it's less sustained than London wall. It isn't! Got to the traverse then pumped out and said take. Abbed down for gear.

DanOsb 17/Jun/16 TR
with Edward
mrteale 17/Jun/16 TR dog

One to work on..

with DanOsb
belay bunny turned bad 30/Apr/16 2nd
Andy Peak 1 25/May/15 TR

Six different ways of doing the crux. All of them hard!

with shunt
markalmack 04/May/15 Lead RP

Fell off getting up to the overlap. took me a few goes to work it out, then pulled ropes and lead clean

NDD 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Howard
phil64 ??/2015 -
deacondeacon 04/Jul/14 Lead dnf

First E5 attempt. Got spanked, although reckon I'm on for headpointing it. Safe but desperate.

dannyboy83 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Well 'ard, thought I was off twice!

with Stuart
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Apharri 10/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Ed Austin
Misha 29/Jun/13 Lead dnf

At Millstone with Ken, Brian and Ian on Ken's last day climbing in the UK. The crag was his choice - a good one, of course. After a couple of warm ups (Lyons Corner House LH lead and Billingsgate second), I couldn't resist a challenge. I was pretty sure I could get up London Wall but not necessarily clean, so White Wall it was - my first attempt on an E5 lead. Getting to the crux was hard enough (pumpy placing the gear) so had a couple of rests. The gear is good though. Spent a while trying the crux but at best could only tickle the crack. Handed over the ropes to Ian, who tried a different way involving bridging but again close but no cigar. Brian had a go next and promptly found an easy way to get onto the first decent foothold, as opposed to the desperate direct approach that Ian and I had gone for. Yet even Brian got shut down by the crux, though he did get a wire into the bottom of the crack. I then pulled the ropes and had another go. This time getting to the crux was ok - knowing the moves and where the 'rest' was made a massive difference. With the gear in, it was like redpointing! Tried all sorts of trickery on the crux but in the end the way that worked best was my original approach of rocking over onto a high left foot in the larger horizontal pocket, with my right hand in the top vertical pocket with the little finger at the top. On the last few goes I was pretty close to getting the crack - the key was weighting the left foot by driving the left knee leftwards. I was getting tired though, so gave up for the day and Brian stripped the gear on abseil. It should go, so Ian and I will be back! Ken had a nice day doing classic HVSs with Brian. Trying hard routes means you get nothing done!!!

with Ian W
Keendan 19/Jun/13 Lead RP

Messed up placing the gear first go, didn't find the right fingerlock for the crux, hole in shoe grew. Thankfully got it 2nd go with tighter shoes and the right beta (gear in place up to the first crux). Really cool route, and much harder than London Wall IMO.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead

1 Fall, faffed around for too long committing to the moves to gain the pocket just below the overlap.

with Mal Scott
rockaddiction ?/May/12 Lead dog

one slip

alaan 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Attempted a few years back, nice to finish it off. Still felt desperate though!

with Ed
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
mattcyp88 18/Aug/09 TR dnf
with Will Horton, Jon Pownall, Dave Spencer
Hidden 18/Aug/09 TR dog
lukehunt 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 13/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Luke
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd β
lukehodson 19/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Hazel
Boy ?/Oct/08 -
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
alaan 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Flumexed by the move to pass the overlap - desperate!

Ram MkiV 06/May/08 Lead dnf

Too hot today in those peg pockets but didn't get on at all well with the despo rockover crux. Reckon I'd have failed in good conditions anyway! Received another rope burn for my efforts. Shit!

with Tommy M
andy gravestock 12/Feb/08 Lead dog

superb in every way just need to get it clean had a rest so..

Alex Mason 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt

ground up, been on this on a different occassion about a month ago, found moves powerful and route pumpy, this time knowing a bit more about the moves found it quite straight foreward and loved it. great climbing. 2/10/07 "fell off crux 3 times but returned to deck each time, then feet pinged crossing the overlap caught by a marginal micro-cam, then lowered off the peg, definately will be back, excellent (tough) climbing."

Toby Dunn 27/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Ruth
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
redjerry ?/May/06 Lead
with Josh Horniak
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
chrishedgehog 13/Jul/04 2nd dog
with Chris Bigger
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
with simon nadin
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Adrian
sadams 06/Jun/99 Lead dnf
with John Boyle
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/1999 -
Jon Read 15/Aug/98 Lead β
with Tanya Holdsworth
Mike Owen 10/May/98 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden 21/Oct/95 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Aug/95 2nd
with Nick Ashton
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Lead RP
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
ste_d 25/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with mik
Stoney Boy 26/Jul/93 Lead G/U
with Bob Marks
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Jul/93 Lead
with Fliss Butler
nokishatov 12/May/93 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Andy McKay
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Duncan Drake
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead β
Rich Kirby 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 01/May/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
phardman 16/Sep/88 TR dog
with John Lloyd
Billg ??/1988 Lead dog

1 fall on crux, then yo yo'ed (old skool!)

Hidden ??/1987 -
AlexRenshaw 03/Sep/86 Lead
with Tom Lewis
Hidden ??/1983 2nd
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead O/S

One of my hardest grit leads.

with Steve Warwick
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set