Stefano Ghisolfi climbs Lapsus, Italy's first 9b

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. He suggests 9b, which, if confirmed, means it's the hardest route in the country.

Stefano Ghisolfi on Lapsus, 9b, Andonno, Italy  © Enrico Veronese
Stefano Ghisolfi on Lapsus, 9b, Andonno, Italy
© Enrico Veronese

Stefano has been very close on several occasions, falling at the last difficult move, but now it finally came together:

Finally after long time and a lot of tries, I sent the hardest project I ever tried. I spent many days on it, falling many times at the last section. Today the conditions were perfect, we came in Andonno just in the afternoon and after a quick warm up I climbed the route on the second go of today.

I propose a new grade for me and for Italy, I think this is much harder than Biographie and Demencia [senil]. I'd like someone will come to try it soon to confirm the grade, maybe Italian history has been made!!

Lapsus links Severiano Scassa's classic 1993 test piece Noia, 8c+, into Anaconda, 8c. Stefano has previously linked Cobra, 8b, into Anaconda to produce Cobra reale, 8c+/9a.

Stefano Ghisolfi is sponsored by: C.A.M.P, Cassin, E9, HRT and La Sportiva


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4 Nov, 2015
Ondra has also just done a new 9b, in France, too. Must be a record year for 9b ascents.
4 Nov, 2015
From 8a.nu 'this was Adam's 13th 9b which can be compared to the runner-up Chris Sharma with 8 routes of this grade. Then there are seven climbers who have done one.' Mind-boggling how far ahead AO is.
6 Nov, 2015
Yeah AO is amazing. The video of him completing La Dura Dura is the most impressive and intense piece of climbing I've ever seen. Very inspiring. His quote about the new cliff was also interesting: “This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's (5.15b’s) and more...and it is not secret spot any more...” Probably more accessible than Flatanger with better weather so will be interesting to see development there over the next 12 months. Of the seven climbers to have done just one 9b I think all but Fernandez/Chilam Balam and Rouhling/Akira were done in the past 12 months. Megos's ascent of Supernova might be added too. It got a slash grade 9a+/9b when converted from the UIAA grade of 11+, but had it been in a different country ...