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Ultimatum, 9a+, first ascent by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Ultimatum, 9a+, in the Pueblo sector at Massone, Arco. Perhaps not the most striking of lines, but very difficult indeed.

photo
Stefano Ghisolfi on Ultimatum, 9a+, Massone, Arco
© Ghisolfi coll.

Finally I sent the last connection in Massone! This is the hardest route in Arco, I called it Ultimatum and the grade could be 9a+ (not as hard as Jungle Boogie [9a+, Céüse] but definitely harder than any 9a).

The route starts on Underground [9a], goes through Reini's vibes [8c/+], downclimb a bit of Pietra Murata [8b+], goes on the crux of L'ultima pietra and the last tiny crimps of Stonehenge, with more than a hundred moves! ( I fell once at the last one). Pretty unique in its genre, this is my second hardest FA ever.

Recently Stefano made the first ascent of Thunder Ribes, 9a, which takes quite a similar line.

His hardest route to date is his own Lapsus, 9b, at Andonno, put up in early November 2015

Stefano Ghisolfi is sponsored by: Cassin, E9 and La Sportiva


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19 Dec, 2016
Wondering if this is the link up Ondra tried a while back in front of a crowd. Never been to Arco but I always get the impression that this something like the euro equivalent to Raven Tor with every possible variation and link up imaginable climbed, named and graded.
20 Dec, 2016
The whole Arco region is covered by climbs coming along in basically all available colors and flavors. Meanwhile, Massone is mainly known as a sport climbing venue - so maybe Raven Tor and Massone relate, but "Arco" is likely differing a lot.
20 Dec, 2016
I know nothing about Arco/Massone but thought exactly that reading his route description! :)
20 Dec, 2016
Arco is a beautiful place with not so beautiful climbing, one of the most polished places I've been to - not so surprising with all these link ups eh! ;)
20 Dec, 2016
The region around Arco is amazing, one of my favourite holiday climbing destinations. You can walk, swim, windsurf, climb sport or multi pitch, mountain bike and do via ferrata. Massone is just one crag of many. It is the best for hard sport climbed but has something for everyone from 4 to 9a+ with approximately 150 routes. A litter better that The Tor IMHO. Sadly the best destinations see the most traffic and will undoubtedly get polished with time. Arco's climbing is a products and spearhead of the 80's boom.
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