UKC

The Ticklist #27 Megos, Bridges and Hard Sport

© Alex Megos Collection

A mix of ticks, unusual news, interesting tidbits and remastered classics...

A big week for Alex Megos

Alex Megos has been productive over the past week. Starting in Margalef, Spain, he repeated the route Mejorando Imagen that was first climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2013. Unusually, Megos suggested an upgrade of the route from 9a to 9b!

A week later, he found himself in Fontainebleau and quickly busied himself at Cuvier Rempart. He climbed Super Tanker (Font 8B+) and Atrésie assis, before heading down the hill and making a swift ascent of Le Dernier Fléau (Font 8C). He followed this up by linking the sit start of Le Dernier Fléau into Gourmandise and suggested a grade of 8B+. To top the day off, he nipped up the classic Tristesse (Font 7C) and Big Golden (Font 7C+).

Lucy Mitchell makes 8b/+ First Ascent of Waterfoot Wall project

Belfast-based Lucy Mitchell has made the first ascent of an 8b/+ project at Garron Point in County Antrim. In 2016, Lucy ticked her first 8b/+ in a day with an ascent of La Marroncita L1 + L2. One year later she ticked her first 8c, the classic Fish Eye, also at Oliana. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Lucy Mitchell (@lucy_mitchell3003)  

Ma Dooley - New E6 6b bridge crack in Sheffield by Tom Randall

Tom Randall has established a new bridge crack on  Derek Dooley Bridge in Sheffield, which he's named Ma Dooley. It comes in at E6 6b and is possibly the 'best crack in South Yorkshire?!' according to Tom. He climbed the line ground-up, so the pure all-gear-placed on lead onsight remains...

Gin Palace is no more

Mountain Guide Tim Neill reported on his Instagram that the Craig Smith '80s testpiece Gin Palace has met its demise. There was rockfall in the area last November, but more recently the infamous chimney decided to fall down. Another one bites the dust.

Es Pontas Remastered

Reel Rock have released a remastered cut of Chris Sharma climbing Es Pontas, his 'king line' off the coast of Mallorca. Filmmaker Josh Lowell said: 'I always wanted to revisit the footage and do a cleaner, simpler, longer cut of the send. More of a historical record of the ascent rather than a dramatic end scene of a movie. So I recently dug back into the original media, stripped out the music, voice over, and some gratuitous cuts, and let the climbing footage play longer and more raw.'

The route was the final sequence in the film King Lines in 2008 and has only been repeated by Jernej Kruder and Jan Hojer.

Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi talk

Next up in Adam Ondra's series of talks with his contemporaries is a conversation with Stefano Ghisolfi. The pair discuss when they first met, early competitions, and the bolting and repeating of routes:


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2 May

I soloed that Sheffield bridge ten years ago after a day bobbing around in boats we bought from eBay for £12 and rather a lot of beer.

I used the red metal bit though, not the crack.

4 May

In France we have been forbidden to go more than 10km from home for exercise, so how is Alex able to travel here from Spain to climb in the forest? Am I missing something?

4 May

Well Supersteve, we both seem to have collected one "dislike" each although I can't see anything in either of our posts that deserves this.

Simon

4 May

Pretty standard. My question is genuine - I live on the East of the Forest but the West side is over 10km from me. Cuvier is a 17km drive from home, but within the 10km radius, so could go there, but Isatis is 12km radius, so not an option. I have been sticking to the rules, as they are there to help us all get through this mess, so am irritated when they are broken. Regularly see cars with Paris number plates in the forest too.

4 May
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