UKC

The Ticklist #44 - Olympians Unleashed

© Tobi Ebner/Alex Megos Collection

9a Flash for Alex Megos

Now back on the crags after his Olympic adjournment, Alex Megos has flashed Klem Loskot's Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a). The 28-year-old German climber was the first person to onsight the grade in 2013 when he waltzed up Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain. Since then, he onsighted another 9a, TCT at Gravere, and flashed Underground (8c+/9a) in Arco. Adam Ondra is still the only climber to have flashed 9a+ with his ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Léger, France.

Intermezzo XY gelöst was climbed by Loskot in 1997 and was controversial at the time because his ascent was done with all the most pre-clipped except for the anchor. It's only three bolts and 8 metres long and Loskot was focused more on the actual climbing. He went back a year later and reclimbed it, clipping all the bolts.

Ondra in the Frankenjura

Another climber who's been re-released into the wild is Adam Ondra. He's been quickly ticking 9as with ascents of Nice Freshly Baked and House of Cards, both of which he suggested 8c+.

Back in the Czech Republic, he also made the first ascent of a 9a project at Býčí skála which is close to where he lives. Commenting on the climb, he said: 'In the last few weeks, I am still getting blown away by how much there is to be climbed yet. Today, I took advantage of excellent conditions and sent this project, doesn't have any name yet and checks in around 9a, probably on the upper end of the grading scale.'

Watch a video of Ondra on the route below:

VIDEO: Simon Lorenzi in Magic Wood

Mellow have released a video of Simon Lorenzi's July rampage in Magic Wood, Switzerland. He ticked Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille (8C), The Never Ending Story (8B+)and added a direct finish to Giuliano Cameroni's Power of Now (8C).


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I believe that Power of Now Direct adds a direct start rather than finish fyi

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