UKC

Carlo Traversi Climbs Magic Line (8c+/5.14c)

© Carlo Traversi Collection

American climber Carlo Traversi has repeated Ron Kauk's Magic Line (8c+/5.14c) at Vernal Falls in Yosemite National Park. Traversi's is the 4th ascent overall and is the 3rd person to have placed all the gear on lead.

The line was originally graded 8c/5.14b but in 2018 Ron Kauk's son, Lonnie, upgraded the route to 8c+/5.14c when he climbed the route placing all the gear on lead. This would equate to around E10 on the British trad grading scale. The route was then subsequently repeated by Hazel Findlay in 2019.

On Instagram, Traversi wrote: 'Learned a lot from this one. Finding peace in a near constant state of tension. Moving softly while maintaining that tension. Trusting the granite, testing its limits of friction. Accepting a new feeling of flow. Imagining my feet are like the roots of a tree, grounded in each position. Then ripping them up and pressing them down again. Over and over. Just keep moving. No thinking, just moving. Seeing it through. Demanding perfection.

'Much thanks to everyone who I've shared the day with at this line over the years. We are lucky to have these places to test ourselves
.'

Traversi is no stranger to hard Yosemite crack lines. In 2019, he made the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown (8c+/5.14c), a route that had gone unrepeated for a decade. In late 2021, he repeated Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (9a+/b), commenting that it was 'the hardest thing I've climbed on a rope so far.'


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