US climber Carlo Traversi has made the long-awaited first repeat of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 5.14c/8c+ at the Upper Cascade Falls, Yosemite Valley. Rodden made the first ascent in 2008 and the line was both the hardest single pitch trad climb in the USA and the hardest trad climb established by a woman at the time (and to our knowledge, remains so).
Although Meltdown is not a dangerous trad line, the gear is small, fiddly and very blind. The route was a discarded Ron Kauk project, which follows a thin seam that even the smallest of fingers struggle to make use of. As a result, the climb largely consists of strenuous laybacking moves on poor footholds and has seen off numerous attempts by capable crack climbers over the years, including Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker and Tommy Caldwell.
Traversi first attempted the route in 2013 but 'got completely shut down' by the technical moves on glassy footholds. In 2015 he managed to top-rope the line cleanly, but poor weather in the following two years hampered attempts. A dry Autumn and current cooler temperatures aligned this month to enable an ascent. Traversi climbed the route on his 3rd attempt of the day, placing all gear on lead to match Rodden's style of ascent in 2008.
Commenting on Instagram, Traversi praised 'the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago.' He added: 'The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades.'
Earlier this year, another contender for the world's hardest single pitch trad climb, Nico Favresse's 2013 route Recovery Drink 5.14+ at Jøssingfjord in Norway, received its first repeat by Daniel Jung.
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