New content at in February

© Mick Ryan -
This month we've got 20 new articles, 16 product announcements and 4 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

EDITORIAL: Recent Deaths on Snowdon 22-Feb-09
[The Snowdon railway running above the cliffs of Clogwyn Coch - Cloggy on the right, 1 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

UKC Editor Jack Geldard takes a look at the recent deaths on Snowdon. Walkers have fallen down the cliff of Clogwyn Coch, which has been renamed in the mainstream media as the...

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A Winter Ascent of Aphrodite - E7 20-Feb-09
[We got our kit dropped off by this chopper, 0 kb]by Al Siddons (Astral Highway)

Rad Butts and Creagan Beaulay are two keen British climbers. In our last feature, Creagan looked back at his beginnings in the sport, with a winter ascent of Aladdin's Couloir (I).

Here, Creagan describes the build up to his first winter ascent of a summer E7, Aphrodite, on the Shelter Stone crag in the...

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VIDEO: Jack Geldard on sighting Surgical Lust - E7 6b 19-Feb-09
[Jack Geldard past the crux on Surgical Lust., 4 kb]by

In this short clip, Jack Geldard on sights Surgical Lust (E7 6b) on Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis Pass, North Wales.

The clip is an out-take from the film 'On...

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VIDEO: James Pearson working Gerty Berwick E9 7a 19-Feb-09
[The Wall Left of New Statesman, chalked up today after Ryan Pasquill's ascent.., 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

James Pearson has recently repeated Gerty Berwick, the famous project at Ilkley, to the left of The New Statesman.

In this clip, filmed by Hotaches, James is working the moves on the route, which was at the time, still a project. The clip was filmed around one year ago.

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GUEST EDITORIAL: A Gritstone Retrospective 18-Feb-09
[Graham Hoey onsighting Barbarian (E5) in 1984, 2 kb]by Graham Hoey

In this editorial, experienced gritstone climber Graham Hoey lays down the law on top-roping, bouldering mats and ground-up falls.

Top Roping: "...Many even extended the head point approach to routes which are well protected!"

Bouldering Mats: "I read recently that 'the E8, Angel's Share had been climbed ground up'. No...

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UKC Features

Winter Climbing with 'Rad' 17-Feb-09
[brixton climber in scotland.Somewhere in Glencoe, 0 kb]by Al Siddons (Astral Highway)

'Rad' Butts and Creagan Beaulay are two British climbers who describe themselves as 'riding the wind.'

Here, Creagan looks back to the time he first met Rad...

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New Zealand 16-Feb-09
[Castle Hill by moonlight, 2 kb]by Liam Copley

"Bouldering in New Zealand is not easy. It sometimes requires an unforgiving amount of travel and commitment to get to the bouldering destinations themselves, never mind the friction-less...

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PHOTOS: I am Jerry Moffatt 13-Feb-09
[ Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Last night was the official launch of Jerry Moffatt – Revelations, the biography of one of the world's top rock climbers of the last 30 years who at his peak was the best in the world at bouldering and lead rock climbing, as well as being a pioneer in training techniques, and a main mover in the development of lead climbing walls.


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The Making of a Carabiner: a visit to DMM 11-Feb-09
[dmm18, 4 kb]by Dave Gill and Mick Ryan

DMM, named after Denny Moorhouse, has been busy making climbing hardwear since 1981. DMM started life in a small barn in Bethesda, near the slate quarries of North Wales. Now their...

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The Great Puffin Saga 10-Feb-09
[Small Puffin, 2 kb]by Ed Bellthorpe

Ed Bellthorpe recently won the Gogarth Writing Competition. Little did he know that his winning essay would throw him in to a new world...

A world of mischief and mayhem, inhabited by John Redhead, Johnny Dawes, Jim Perrin and many other north Wales misfits. In this tale of adventure and mystery, Ed parts the dark mists of...

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Climb Magazine March 2009 09-Feb-09
[Climb magazine , March 2009, 4 kb]by Climb Magazine

Take a sneak preview at what's coming up in the March 2009 issue of Climb Magazine. Including interviews with Chris Sharma and Stevie Haston, Andy Nisbett's Stomping Ground and Tom Richardson on Stoves and Cooking.

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10 Quick Tips - Enjoy your Sport Climbing Holiday 06-Feb-09
[Louisa climbing Saxafon F6b+, 3 kb]by Katherine Schirrmacher

Top climber Katherine Schirrmacher takes us a through a few short tips on how to get the most out of our sport climbing holiday.

These brief nuggets of information are...

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The British Invasion (Uncut) 04-Feb-09
[Andrew Bisharat, 2 kb]by Andrew Bisharat

Like many of you, I receive a lot of penis enlargement spam—lately, even more the usual. Unlike many of you, I don't need it. Where I meant to take the penis-spam remark is to compare it to...

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Stop Press - An adventure on Lundy 04-Feb-09
[Flying Buttress, Lundy, 3 kb]by John Cox

John Cox takes us on another sea cliff adventure. This time on the wonderful island of Lundy. In John's tales of adventure climbing something unexpected always happens, usually with catastrophic results...

"It had all happened completely without warning... ...then an almighty splash beside me, followed by some thrashing and...

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Rock Destinations

Colorado Ice 28-Feb-09
[George McEwan leading The Drool, 3 kb]by George McEwan

"Within Colorado you will find ice climbs at all grades – from fat ice WI3 to desperate poorly protected WI6.From the remote forests and high alpine peaks of the Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), to the desert like red sandstone of Redstone, through to the roadside 'ice cragging' of Ouray, you'll find a landscape and venue to suit whatever...

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Earl Crag 27-Feb-09
[Wainman's Pinnacle at Earl crag., 1 kb]by Kevin Avery-Assistant Editor- UKC

Earl Crag is often overlooked in favour of its more famous Yorkshire neighbours. But for those in the know it provides climbing that equals, if not betters some of the more popular...

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Toubkal 06-Feb-09
[Arapiles panorama, 3 kb]by Caralynr

UKC user Cara-Lyn Reynolds gives us a complete logistics guide covering everything you need to know for a trip to Toubkal and the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. From flights and porters...

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Fontainebleau 02-Feb-09
[Ceri Katz climbs a delicate slabby rib on the blue circuit at Cul De Chien, 3 kb]by Stow Kelner and updated by Kevin Avery- UKC

The beautiful forested area around Fontainebleau is well known amongst climbers as a bouldering "Mecca." However for newcomers it can prove to be a somewhat baffling maze of blocs, roads,...

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COMPETITION: Win BMC Great British Grade Debate Tickets 27-Feb-09
[E12 Poster at Awesome Walls, Stockport, 2 kb]by Sarah Stirling

The British E grade system is unique. Some argue it's the best in the world, giving more information than any others with its double-barrelled descriptives. True, for well-established...

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[Slipstones Snow, 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

This is a new writing and photography competition with great prizes from Lyon Equipment distributors of La Sportiva, Petzl, Beal and other outdoor brands. What you have to do? Describe a Grand Day Out in the winter with up to 500 words and a photograph. Full details in this introductory article with an example of what we are after. This...

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Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Dreaming of Gogarth - a poster 27-Feb-09
[A2 Main Cliff topo poster, 3 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Ground Up have just received delivery of a batch of Gogarth Main Cliff posters. These stunning pieces of art can be purchased for £6.95 initially from V12 Outdoor in Llanberis and very soon...

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@ more products...
...Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Women's Super Hero Softshell Jacket 24-Feb-09
[The Women's Super Hero Jacket being put to good use , 3 kb]by Marmot

The Women's Super Hero jacket offers a formidable amount of protection for a wide range of alpine activities.

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ShAFF Launch - 27 Feb to 1 Mar, Showroom in Sheffield 23-Feb-09
[ShAFF Launch 2009 - Ben Slinger and Danny Butler performing, 3 kb]by UKC News

The 2009 Sheffield Adventure Film Festival (ShAFF) at the Showroom in Sheffield was officially announced last week. Three times world champion Ben Slinger was there with fellow Mountain Bike Trials Rider Danny Butler performing in front of awe-struck crowds in Sheffield City Centre during the lunch time and evening rushes. Then, rather...

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UKC Job Alert 21-Feb-09
[ukc job alert, 3 kb]by Mountain Intelligence

Mountain Intelligence have two Part Time roles available. The duties and responsibilities are varied however, the primary focus is to offer expert and impartial advice and ensure our...

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Chris Sharma at the Manchester Climbing Festival 21-Feb-09
[ Chris Sharma on the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef, Cataluyna, Spain, 3 kb]by UKC News

Chris Sharma has just completed yet another top level sport route.

He's taking time out from his busy climbing schedule to make a rare UK appearance at the Manchester Climbing...

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PCS Hanging Kit 17-Feb-09
[Jetboil PCS Hanging Kit #1, 3 kb]by Lyon Equipment

The lightest, neatest and fastest cooking system around. The Jetboil combines the stove and pot together to give super fast boil times.

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Pure Chalk: Available as block, loose and chalk ball. 17-Feb-09
[Pure Chalk Blox and Block, 1 kb]by Wild Country

In stores now, Wild Country totally additive free Pure Chalk...go on do your hands a favour...and help the crags too with our BMC bonus. Available as block, loose and chalk ball.

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Five Stars Climb Everest Challenge at MCC 16-Feb-09
[Five Stars Climb Everest Challenge, 3 kb]by

On 28th February and 1st March, MCC will be hosting the Climb Everest Challenge in aid of the Five Stars appeal. This charity aims to raise £1 million for a vital scanner for the New...

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New Bouldering Wall in Leeds 16-Feb-09
[City Bloc - Leeds - Now Open, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

NOW OPEN - City Bloc, is a new bouldering wall in Leeds City Centre. It hosts over 600m2 of bouldering and has a dedicated training area with a 50 degree fixed hold training board...

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Astro Karabiner & Quickdraw - in stores now... 15-Feb-09
[Astro Biner 29gms - Instores now, 2 kb]by Wild Country

Wild Country presents their latest biners & the next step in 'the lightening project' - our ongoing challenge to create the lightest possible biners to the highest possible quality standards. And in the Astro we are proud to say we have our lightest biner ever taking us further down that road. So by shaving the grams we hope, bit by bit, we're...

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Crevasse Rescue Kit 15-Feb-09
[Petzl Crevasse Rescue Kit #1, 3 kb]by Lyon Equipment

This fine package from Petzl is a MUST for all walkers, climbers and skiers who venture into areas where crevasses are likely to be encountered.

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Youth Audience Development Programme 15-Feb-09
[Why Did You / Didn't You Come? Answer & Win..., Lectures, market research, public notices Premier Post, 1 weeks at £2, 3 kb]by Heason Events

ShAFF Youth Development Programme to show films to 1,500 school students over the next 3 weeks.

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Crampons, Crampons, Crampons......and Axes 09-Feb-09
[Ian Barnes and a customer buying crampons at Lakes Climber in Ambleside., 4 kb]by Mick Ryan -

Crampon and axe sales are understandably booming, despite the economic downturn, as walkers and climbers flock to the snow shrouded hills and mountains of the UK. Climbing shops are doing well, and manufacturers and suppliers are doing their best to keep up with demand. At the same time Mountain Rescue Teams in the UK are under a great deal of...

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Scottish Rock Volume 2 (North) 04-Feb-09
[Scottish Rock Volume 2 (North) #1, 4 kb]by Pesda Press

Now available, the second volume of Gary Latter's superb selective guidebook to Scottish rock climbing. Another 480 pages crammed with the cream of mountain, crag, sea and sport climbing.

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Association of Mountain Instructors (AMI) AGM 2009 02-Feb-09
[Association of Mountain Instructors (AMI) AGM 2009 at the wall., 2 kb]by Pauline Sanderson

This year AMI decided to be radical and have their first winter AGM at Glenmore Lodge. Last weekend the whole of Glenmore Lodge was dedicated to them with over 80 attendees for the...

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Avalanche Awareness and SAIS 02-Feb-09
[Mountain Equipment and Avalanche Awareness, 2 kb]by Richard Woodall

Mountain Equipment and the Sport Scotland Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) have agreed to a new sponsorship deal that will see their association continue for at least another 3 years.

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Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
Gamma SV softshell 17-Feb-09
[Night descent off The Black Ladders in the Gamma SV, 1 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

UKC Editor Jack Geldard test drives the Gamma SV softshell from Arc'teryx. It has taken him a full 3 weeks just to spell Arc'teryx...

"So here I am, dragged kicking and screaming in to a new, fashionable era of my life. I have joined the ranks of the most slick and able climbers, who not only climb the hardest routes, but look...

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B5 Approach Shoe 14-Feb-09
[A side profile of the B5. Note the rubber rand on the toe and heel area and the dual-density midsole., 1 kb]by Kevin Avery-Assistant Editor- UKC

UKC Assistant Editor Kevin Avery tramps the local moors to test out the B5 approach shoe from La Sportiva.

"The B5 is a comfortable and precise fitting approach shoe...

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Beta Stick Technical 09-Feb-09
[The beta stick in action!, 2 kb]by Iain Whitehouse of CragX Climbing Shop

Iain Whitehouse tests out the Beta Stick Technical.

What on earth is it?

"On half-dome the half-hour I spent gibbering as I eyed up the big gap in a bolt ladder on...

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The Katana Rock Shoe 04-Feb-09
[Testing the Katana at Ilkey, 2 kb]by Kevin Avery-Assistant Editor- UKC

UKC Assistant Editor Kevin Avery takes off his carpet slippers and bravely steps out in the the frosty winter to test the Katana rock shoe from La Sportiva.

"It's not often I put a shoe on and think 'bloody hell, that feels good!' But this was definitely one..."

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