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Of course there are hundreds of great routes at this grade, but what are your favourites?
I've only just started leading HVS again, but the handful I have managed have been brilliant fun - Plexity, Bond St, Cave Arete, Goliath's Groove, Tower Face & Saul's Crack.
I've only just started leading HVS again, but the handful I have managed have been brilliant fun - Plexity, Bond St, Cave Arete, Goliath's Groove, Tower Face & Saul's Crack.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: On quarried grit I couldnt possibly narrow it down to less than 10.
Natural grit:-
The Link
Queersville
Rt Unconquerable
Natural grit:-
The Link
Queersville
Rt Unconquerable
In reply to Chris Tan.Clone: Queersville is, or at least was understarred isnt it!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Forgot Suicide Wall at Cratcliffe.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I think chequers buttress needs a mention. Low in the grade but fantastic position on the big flattie at the arete.
Isn't the Link E1 now Al.....
Just did Demon Wall at Almscliffe at the weekend. That was pretty good (though would be beaten by Geart Westen and Overhanging Groove I reckon, they're on the "to do" list.
I think chequers buttress needs a mention. Low in the grade but fantastic position on the big flattie at the arete.
Isn't the Link E1 now Al.....
Just did Demon Wall at Almscliffe at the weekend. That was pretty good (though would be beaten by Geart Westen and Overhanging Groove I reckon, they're on the "to do" list.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Nick, how could you??! You know what happens when you say things like "Plexity is a great HVS" !!!
I would put:
Chequers Crack
Dexterity
Right Fin
Fate
Right Unconquerable
I love them because they're either harder than they look, or easier than they look!
Nick, how could you??! You know what happens when you say things like "Plexity is a great HVS" !!!
I would put:
Chequers Crack
Dexterity
Right Fin
Fate
Right Unconquerable
I love them because they're either harder than they look, or easier than they look!
1
In reply to galpinos@work: If the Link is E1 its a very soft touch!
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: But you are the only person in existance who doesn't like Plexity!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Having only lead a handful I would say all that I have done were my favourites but the top three would be
Rubberneck
Sauls Crack
The Sloth
Mainly because I was scared to bits before starting them and most surprised to get up them in one piece
Seem to have dropped out of the HVS grade through lack of climbing recently
Having only lead a handful I would say all that I have done were my favourites but the top three would be
Rubberneck
Sauls Crack
The Sloth
Mainly because I was scared to bits before starting them and most surprised to get up them in one piece
Seem to have dropped out of the HVS grade through lack of climbing recently
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Will be watching this thread with interest...
Only done the two at that grade but love them both - Meringue at Lawrencefield and Tody's Wall at Froggat - Right Unconquerable I have seconded and it is on my hitlist to lead along with the Peapod further down the crag.
bluebrad
Will be watching this thread with interest...
Only done the two at that grade but love them both - Meringue at Lawrencefield and Tody's Wall at Froggat - Right Unconquerable I have seconded and it is on my hitlist to lead along with the Peapod further down the crag.
bluebrad
In reply to bluebrad:
Ummm....... are you sure you have your names right? They aren't on the same crag..........
AJM
> Right Unconquerable I have seconded and it is on my hitlist to lead along with the Peapod further down the crag.
Ummm....... are you sure you have your names right? They aren't on the same crag..........
AJM
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Would also recommend Chequers Buttress.
Fina at Stanage is technical and packs it in for a short route (three hard cruxes in about 8 or 10m of climbing).
Would also recommend Chequers Buttress.
Fina at Stanage is technical and packs it in for a short route (three hard cruxes in about 8 or 10m of climbing).
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Plexity is one of the great quarried grit HVS's, and the first time you do it you really suspect its going to be E1.
> (In reply to TomPR) But you are the only person in existance who doesn't like Plexity!
Plexity is one of the great quarried grit HVS's, and the first time you do it you really suspect its going to be E1.
In reply to bluebrad: )Oooooooh, forgot Peapod, one of my very faves.
In reply to bluebrad:
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
>
> Will be watching this thread with interest...
>
> Only done the two at that grade but love them both - Meringue at Lawrencefield and Tody's Wall at Froggat - Right Unconquerable I have seconded and it is on my hitlist to lead along with the Peapod further down the crag.
>
> bluebrad
Errr Peapod is not further down the crag from RC, its on Curbar!
>
> Will be watching this thread with interest...
>
> Only done the two at that grade but love them both - Meringue at Lawrencefield and Tody's Wall at Froggat - Right Unconquerable I have seconded and it is on my hitlist to lead along with the Peapod further down the crag.
>
> bluebrad
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Hypothesis at The Roaches is a fine route (doesn't seem to get mentioned much).
In reply to Al Evans: Sorry that should have been RU.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I haven't done a bad one yet, start at one end of a crag and do them all!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Knoghts Move at Burbage North, still my first and only HVS lead
In reply to Al Evans:
Yeah, Peapod is flippin amazing. So many different techniques needed in a short route. Hard at the grade as well!
Yeah, Peapod is flippin amazing. So many different techniques needed in a short route. Hard at the grade as well!
In reply to Al Evans:
Whoops bit of a mad one last night has caused even more confusion in my tiny little brain than normal... 8-) The climb that I meant was Avalanche Wall (and here is the photo of Nick leading it who I seconded).
bluebrad
> (In reply to bluebrad)
> [...]
> Errr Peapod is not further down the crag from RC, its on Curbar!
> [...]
> Errr Peapod is not further down the crag from RC, its on Curbar!
Whoops bit of a mad one last night has caused even more confusion in my tiny little brain than normal... 8-) The climb that I meant was Avalanche Wall (and here is the photo of Nick leading it who I seconded).
bluebrad
In reply to bluebrad:
with the link this time...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=33291
bluebrad (who is obviously in an even more confused state than even he thinks he is in)
with the link this time...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=33291
bluebrad (who is obviously in an even more confused state than even he thinks he is in)
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
If you're getting back into HVSs, Froggatt's the place to be:
Chequer's Buttress has to be the greatest of all HVSs...
And ticking Tody's Wall and Sunset Slab on the same day just makes sense.
... then do TPS to make yourself feel even better!
If you're getting back into HVSs, Froggatt's the place to be:
Chequer's Buttress has to be the greatest of all HVSs...
And ticking Tody's Wall and Sunset Slab on the same day just makes sense.
... then do TPS to make yourself feel even better!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: My First: Overhanging Groove. Perfect route.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Great Crack, Dukes Quarry
Dawn, Wilton 1
Central Crack, Wilton 2
End Of Time, Denham
East Rib, Shining Clough
Pisa Super Direct, Shining Clough
Prelude To Space, Roaches Skyline
Baldstone's Arete, Baldstones
All excellent, apart from End Of Time which is perhaps merely great.
Great Crack, Dukes Quarry
Dawn, Wilton 1
Central Crack, Wilton 2
End Of Time, Denham
East Rib, Shining Clough
Pisa Super Direct, Shining Clough
Prelude To Space, Roaches Skyline
Baldstone's Arete, Baldstones
All excellent, apart from End Of Time which is perhaps merely great.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
A few crackers that no one seems to have mentioned yet :
Great North Road (definitely a contender for the country's best single pitch HVS)
Croton Oil & Blizzard Ridge
Old Salt
All the HVSs on Rusty Wall
A few crackers that no one seems to have mentioned yet :
Great North Road (definitely a contender for the country's best single pitch HVS)
Croton Oil & Blizzard Ridge
Old Salt
All the HVSs on Rusty Wall
In reply to Fiend: Prelude to Space is a fine route - THAT move always feels quite serious!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Just a quick hijack to let anyone who saw my performance attempting Goliaths Groove last Saturday know that I am also available for kids bithday partys.
> the handful I have managed have been brilliant fun - Goliath's Groove
Just a quick hijack to let anyone who saw my performance attempting Goliaths Groove last Saturday know that I am also available for kids bithday partys.
In reply to Fiend: Cool. I've never even been to those crags, let alone done any of those routes!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
suicide wall cratcliffe
great western almscliff
sloth roaches
rabbits paw wall caley
suicide wall cratcliffe
great western almscliff
sloth roaches
rabbits paw wall caley
In reply to Lizard:
So which approach did you use? I went for the proven one-leg-in-the-crack-and-desperately-thrutch!
> Just a quick hijack to let anyone who saw my performance attempting Goliaths Groove last Saturday know that I am also available for kids bithday partys.
So which approach did you use? I went for the proven one-leg-in-the-crack-and-desperately-thrutch!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Yep- I used that approach but it failed. I've never been broken by a climb before- I've been hobbling all week!
Yep- I used that approach but it failed. I've never been broken by a climb before- I've been hobbling all week!
In reply to Lizard:
I think I saw you
I tried it later and laybacked the first bit, not a fan of thrutching. Still not sure of the best method.
I think I saw you
I tried it later and laybacked the first bit, not a fan of thrutching. Still not sure of the best method.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I have such an aversion to foot-jamming that I tried to bridge my way. Seemed to be working, right up to the point where I fell off
> (In reply to Lizard)
> [...]
>
> So which approach did you use? I went for the proven one-leg-in-the-crack-and-desperately-thrutch!
> [...]
>
> So which approach did you use? I went for the proven one-leg-in-the-crack-and-desperately-thrutch!
I have such an aversion to foot-jamming that I tried to bridge my way. Seemed to be working, right up to the point where I fell off
In reply to Lizard:
Funnily enough that start put my climbing partner out of action for a while and he is most definitely not easily broken!
> Yep- I used that approach but it failed. I've never been broken by a climb before- I've been hobbling all week!
Funnily enough that start put my climbing partner out of action for a while and he is most definitely not easily broken!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Chequers Buttress is one of the finest routes in Britain, despite the fact that it's only a few metres high, on on such an inferior rock as gritstone ;P
On a less positive note, I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Right Unconquerable. Compelling line, great history, but other than the last move, really quite boring climbing (though, of course, many disagree).
Chequers Buttress is one of the finest routes in Britain, despite the fact that it's only a few metres high, on on such an inferior rock as gritstone ;P
On a less positive note, I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Right Unconquerable. Compelling line, great history, but other than the last move, really quite boring climbing (though, of course, many disagree).
In reply to Alun: I'll never forget seeing a guy fall the full length of RU, stripping his top gear and ending up upside down - his head only inches from the ground on rope-stretch Terrifying.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
For the connoisseur of the obscure, I would recommend (from recent experience) a couple at Baldstones:
Baldstone Arete - HVS 4c and
Goldsitch Crack - HVS 4c.
A taste of both can be seem at http://www.zenadsl6044.zen.co.uk/Baldstones/Main.htm
Sorry its a link to non-UKC pictures, but uploading is a bit too slow for a quick post.
Marek
For the connoisseur of the obscure, I would recommend (from recent experience) a couple at Baldstones:
Baldstone Arete - HVS 4c and
Goldsitch Crack - HVS 4c.
A taste of both can be seem at http://www.zenadsl6044.zen.co.uk/Baldstones/Main.htm
Sorry its a link to non-UKC pictures, but uploading is a bit too slow for a quick post.
Marek
In reply to Alun:
Have cams tamed it? Placing a rattly hex behind the first lovely section of flake (now sadly deceased) and going for it, sans protection, until just before the top, was what RU meant for many. A race against time and a classic test of bottle (at the grade).
Mick
Have cams tamed it? Placing a rattly hex behind the first lovely section of flake (now sadly deceased) and going for it, sans protection, until just before the top, was what RU meant for many. A race against time and a classic test of bottle (at the grade).
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward: First, Nick's tale of someone nearly decking, now you and your 'test of bottle' comment... and I *was* all set to have a go at RU in September
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Suicide wall for me every time. Varied, continuously interesting and tough.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Great North Road - probably the best, sustained brilliance. (Great Portland Street felt very disjointed by comparison).
Right Unconquerable - almost over too quickly, though I guess that's the point: the lengthy psyche-up... then the sprint.
Congo Corner - after the initial crack is rather pleasant.
Saul's Crack and Mantis, Roaches - a contrasting twosome, I found the former desperately thrutchy, the latter whilst not classic is a really pleasant micro-route.
Demon Wall and Great Western (RH finish), Almscliff - good climbing with DW always having a proper sense of forboding for me (until I did it) due to the number of failed / desperate onsights it seems to attract.
Angel Wall, Caley - top microroute with great thank-f**k jugs
Mind you, I would probably rate my two favourite single pitch HVS's (aside from Great North Road maybe) as being in "the county": Main Wall at Great Wanney (5b and just keeps coming with at least 3 "cruxes") and Crystal at Crag Lough (long and interesting with an almost "mountain feel").
Great North Road - probably the best, sustained brilliance. (Great Portland Street felt very disjointed by comparison).
Right Unconquerable - almost over too quickly, though I guess that's the point: the lengthy psyche-up... then the sprint.
Congo Corner - after the initial crack is rather pleasant.
Saul's Crack and Mantis, Roaches - a contrasting twosome, I found the former desperately thrutchy, the latter whilst not classic is a really pleasant micro-route.
Demon Wall and Great Western (RH finish), Almscliff - good climbing with DW always having a proper sense of forboding for me (until I did it) due to the number of failed / desperate onsights it seems to attract.
Angel Wall, Caley - top microroute with great thank-f**k jugs
Mind you, I would probably rate my two favourite single pitch HVS's (aside from Great North Road maybe) as being in "the county": Main Wall at Great Wanney (5b and just keeps coming with at least 3 "cruxes") and Crystal at Crag Lough (long and interesting with an almost "mountain feel").
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
*Nods* The man has taste.
> Mind you, I would probably rate my two favourite single pitch HVS's (aside from Great North Road maybe) as being in "the county": Main Wall at Great Wanney (5b and just keeps coming with at least 3 "cruxes") and Crystal at Crag Lough (long and interesting with an almost "mountain feel").
*Nods* The man has taste.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Pisa Super Direct and East Rib at Shining Clough are both absolute beauties.
Pisa Super Direct and East Rib at Shining Clough are both absolute beauties.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Hi Nick,
I did exactly the same thing on Avalanche Wall on Curbur. It was very early on and I think my 5th lead ever. My boyish ego and testosterone coupled with my lack of experience almost finished me off! I was just trying to get established in the sentry box when I fell off and stripped 2 out of the 3 bits of gear I put in. I ended up upside down being able to touch the ground with my hand.
Just to add to the OP.
Ozymandias (sp) Stanage
BAWs Crawl for entertainment, Stanage
Little Unconquerable, a lot of effort for length ( easier in big boots ) again Stanage.
Cheers,
Kev.
> (In reply to Alun) I'll never forget seeing a guy fall the full length of RU, stripping his top gear and ending up upside down - his head only inches from the ground on rope-stretch Terrifying.
Hi Nick,
I did exactly the same thing on Avalanche Wall on Curbur. It was very early on and I think my 5th lead ever. My boyish ego and testosterone coupled with my lack of experience almost finished me off! I was just trying to get established in the sentry box when I fell off and stripped 2 out of the 3 bits of gear I put in. I ended up upside down being able to touch the ground with my hand.
Just to add to the OP.
Ozymandias (sp) Stanage
BAWs Crawl for entertainment, Stanage
Little Unconquerable, a lot of effort for length ( easier in big boots ) again Stanage.
Cheers,
Kev.
In reply to Mike Hammill:
You missed Western Front and Black Wall Eliminate from your list (or perhaps BWE was only VS in those days?)
> > Opus, Virgin and Gypsy all at Almscliff, all classic HVS 5c's.
> Mike H
> Mike H
You missed Western Front and Black Wall Eliminate from your list (or perhaps BWE was only VS in those days?)
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose: One of my finest afer work evenings on grit was onsight soloing Angel's Wall, Rabbit Paw Wall and Permutation Rib, in pre mat days. Had a bit of a wobbler on PR, in fading light, see it gets E1 now.
HVS os the grade when Almscliff routes start getting really good.
HVS os the grade when Almscliff routes start getting really good.
In reply to Marek: Goldstitch crack looks awesome, how can an off-width that steep be only HVS?
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe
Jester Cracks and Legacy, Kinder North
The Sloth and Saul's Crack, Roaches
Queersville, Whillans Pendulum/Black Magic, Right Hand Tower, loads of others, Stanage
Valkyrie, Sunset Slab, Froggatt (I dont really rate 3ps personally but it is hvs)
Gt Portland Street, Great North Road, Lyons Corner House, Millstone
And loads more. There are so many great grit HVSs. I think my favorite was probably Jester Cracks but more because of the unbelievable pump and feeling on topping out - a very personal choice. I think the bets routes in that list are probably Suicide Wall ,Gt Portland St, Valkyrie and WP/BM for me.
Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe
Jester Cracks and Legacy, Kinder North
The Sloth and Saul's Crack, Roaches
Queersville, Whillans Pendulum/Black Magic, Right Hand Tower, loads of others, Stanage
Valkyrie, Sunset Slab, Froggatt (I dont really rate 3ps personally but it is hvs)
Gt Portland Street, Great North Road, Lyons Corner House, Millstone
And loads more. There are so many great grit HVSs. I think my favorite was probably Jester Cracks but more because of the unbelievable pump and feeling on topping out - a very personal choice. I think the bets routes in that list are probably Suicide Wall ,Gt Portland St, Valkyrie and WP/BM for me.
In reply to Fiend:
Central Cracks is at Wilton 3, not 2. Ive only seconded it a long time ago but, yes, I rememebr it as a very good route, one I want to go back to. Maybe not quite the same class as somethign liek Suicide Wall though.
Central Cracks is at Wilton 3, not 2. Ive only seconded it a long time ago but, yes, I rememebr it as a very good route, one I want to go back to. Maybe not quite the same class as somethign liek Suicide Wall though.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Priscilla Ridge Laddow, E1 on the Rockfax Database, but more like HVS I think. Great location, top moves and position, and the gear is there when you need it.....
Andy
Priscilla Ridge Laddow, E1 on the Rockfax Database, but more like HVS I think. Great location, top moves and position, and the gear is there when you need it.....
Andy
In reply to Si dH:
Oh and add Ivory Tower t othe Kidner list, alhtough its on the southern side.
Oh and add Ivory Tower t othe Kidner list, alhtough its on the southern side.
The Twisted Smile on Kinder North was one of the most enjoyable routes I've done on grit I reckon.
Others that I have fond memories of are
Mort Wall, Chatsworth (one of my first, perhaps it's not that good really?)
Blizzard Ridge, Rivelin
Roof Route, Rivelin (more for the satisfaction of seeing people flounder probably)
Congo Corner, Stanage
Chequers Crack and Buttress
Great Western
Right Unconquerable
3 Pebble Slab
I think I could go on an on, natural grit is so good for HVS.
Others that I have fond memories of are
Mort Wall, Chatsworth (one of my first, perhaps it's not that good really?)
Blizzard Ridge, Rivelin
Roof Route, Rivelin (more for the satisfaction of seeing people flounder probably)
Congo Corner, Stanage
Chequers Crack and Buttress
Great Western
Right Unconquerable
3 Pebble Slab
I think I could go on an on, natural grit is so good for HVS.
In reply to David L:
Western Front - E3 5c?
> (In reply to Mike Hammill)
> [...]
>
> You missed Western Front and Black Wall Eliminate from your list (or perhaps BWE was only VS in those days?)
> [...]
>
> You missed Western Front and Black Wall Eliminate from your list (or perhaps BWE was only VS in those days?)
Western Front - E3 5c?
In reply to Si dH: Nobody has mentioned Tower Face, another favourite. At the other end, Surgeons Saunter.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Great Crack, Dukes Quarry, Whatstandwell. In good condition, absolutely without question the most enjoyable 3* HVS in the peak and knocks spots off alot of the traditionaly rated 3* HVS (IMHO). Bit slippy at the start but full on all the way to the top.
In reply to Clif wichard:
Absolutely!
In fact, after the heatwave and recent fresh spell, it should be in perfect condition - any HVS leader who is climbing in the Peaks this weekend and doesn't go and do it should have electric shock therapy :P.
Absolutely!
In fact, after the heatwave and recent fresh spell, it should be in perfect condition - any HVS leader who is climbing in the Peaks this weekend and doesn't go and do it should have electric shock therapy :P.
In reply to Mick Ward:
Hmm. With a rack of cams there is gear pretty much every move - perhaps this has taken something away from the experience.
> Have cams tamed it?
Hmm. With a rack of cams there is gear pretty much every move - perhaps this has taken something away from the experience.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
A post of offwidths on anohter thread has reminded me - Bachelor's Left HAnd at Hen Cloud is possibly the best HVS on grit. Absolutely outstanding.
A post of offwidths on anohter thread has reminded me - Bachelor's Left HAnd at Hen Cloud is possibly the best HVS on grit. Absolutely outstanding.
In reply to Si dH:
Delstree and Hen Cloud Eliminate are not far behind. Another one not mentioned yet is Great Crack in Dukes Quarry.
My personnal favourite is Suicide Wall and there are not so many left that might knock it off its pedestal (Great Western being one still on my to do list).
Delstree and Hen Cloud Eliminate are not far behind. Another one not mentioned yet is Great Crack in Dukes Quarry.
My personnal favourite is Suicide Wall and there are not so many left that might knock it off its pedestal (Great Western being one still on my to do list).
In reply to Offwidth:
Only mentioned twice so far, including a whole post dedicated to it's glory! :P
> Another one not mentioned yet is Great Crack in Dukes Quarry.
Only mentioned twice so far, including a whole post dedicated to it's glory! :P
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I'm sure that was me, about Nov last year? A girl was belaying who shot up a few feet! Didn't lead anything for about 3 months after that.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
>In reply to Alun: I'll never forget seeing a guy fall the full length of RU, stripping his top gear and ending up upside down - his head only inches from the ground on rope-stretch Terrifying.
This wasn't in 1992 by any chance? If so, that was me - I got back on it and did the same thing again...
>In reply to Alun: I'll never forget seeing a guy fall the full length of RU, stripping his top gear and ending up upside down - his head only inches from the ground on rope-stretch Terrifying.
This wasn't in 1992 by any chance? If so, that was me - I got back on it and did the same thing again...
In reply to Fiend: Doh!
In reply to Derbyshire Ben:
What happened after that? Did you have a third go and succeed or give it up for the day and go to the pub.
bluebrad
> This wasn't in 1992 by any chance? If so, that was me - I got back on it and did the same thing again...
What happened after that? Did you have a third go and succeed or give it up for the day and go to the pub.
bluebrad
In reply to hughof77 and Derbyshire Ben: Neither of you - I think it was around 2001/2. So that makes at least 3 lemmings who have fallen the full length of that route!
In reply to bluebrad:
>Did you have a third go and succeed
Yeah, but only just...
Top (Peak) grit HVS from me that immediately spring to mind.
Suicide Wall - THE best peak HVS
Rubberneck
Bond Street
Crescent Arete
>Did you have a third go and succeed
Yeah, but only just...
Top (Peak) grit HVS from me that immediately spring to mind.
Suicide Wall - THE best peak HVS
Rubberneck
Bond Street
Crescent Arete
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
Whether its an off-width really depends on one's "rotundity". For the reasonably slim, it more of a bottomless squeeze chimney. So that's OK then. Its also well protected with a sling round a deep chockstone. If you can reach it.
The 4c is certainly a mystery. Perhaps we should put it down as the grade standard for 4c marginally off-width overhanging squeeze chimneys.
Good sandbag for indoor wall climbers, though.
Marek
> (In reply to Marek) Goldstitch crack looks awesome, how can an off-width that steep be only HVS?
Whether its an off-width really depends on one's "rotundity". For the reasonably slim, it more of a bottomless squeeze chimney. So that's OK then. Its also well protected with a sling round a deep chockstone. If you can reach it.
The 4c is certainly a mystery. Perhaps we should put it down as the grade standard for 4c marginally off-width overhanging squeeze chimneys.
Good sandbag for indoor wall climbers, though.
Marek
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I was at Hen Cloud the other weekend and did Delstree, Bachelor's Left-hand and Hen Cloud Eliminate (I know this gets E1 but it's not really harder than the other two and is well protected). All of them are superb.
If you have any arms left you could stop off at Cratcliffe on the way home and do Suicide Wall, which competes with Bachelor's Left-hand for my favourite grit route of any grade.
I was at Hen Cloud the other weekend and did Delstree, Bachelor's Left-hand and Hen Cloud Eliminate (I know this gets E1 but it's not really harder than the other two and is well protected). All of them are superb.
If you have any arms left you could stop off at Cratcliffe on the way home and do Suicide Wall, which competes with Bachelor's Left-hand for my favourite grit route of any grade.
In reply to Neil Ireson: Yes, I did Delstree, Bachelor's Left-hand and Hen Cloud Eliminate a few years ago - Bachelor's Left-hand is a brilliant route, one of my favourites. I did the VS version Bachelor's Climb earlier this week and it's also brilliant.
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned The Trident at Wimberry - superb!
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned The Trident at Wimberry - superb!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Lordy. Oh so many.
Todys wall
Chequers Buttress
Great North Road Plexity
Great Portland Street
Queersville
Eliminator
Cave arete
Peapod (about to go and do it again in an hour or so)
Sorells sorrow
More more more
And that's just Eastern grit...
Lordy. Oh so many.
Todys wall
Chequers Buttress
Great North Road Plexity
Great Portland Street
Queersville
Eliminator
Cave arete
Peapod (about to go and do it again in an hour or so)
Sorells sorrow
More more more
And that's just Eastern grit...
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I note that in the Rockfax guide Queersville finally gets 3 stars, wonder why it took so long?
In reply to Al Evans: Neb Buttress at Bamford is a nice route too, though not as good as many of those mentioned above.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Valkyrie Direct - The Roaches
Rubberneck - Five Clouds
Mantis - Roaches Skyline
The Dalesman - Stanage High Neb
Valkyrie Direct - The Roaches
Rubberneck - Five Clouds
Mantis - Roaches Skyline
The Dalesman - Stanage High Neb
In reply to hutchm: Nah; nothing at the 'cliff is actually harder than HVS, thought everyone knew that.
In reply to Smelly Fox:
I failed on The Daleman when I tried..mind you I'd mistaken the crux traverse for part of the High Neb Girdle and it seemed a bit silly for a severe.
I failed on The Daleman when I tried..mind you I'd mistaken the crux traverse for part of the High Neb Girdle and it seemed a bit silly for a severe.
In reply to Offwidth:
The pumpiest severe in the world!!! Hard luck.
The pumpiest severe in the world!!! Hard luck.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
From my limited experience of HVS, I reckon The Chant at Burbage North is my favourite so far.
Technical & balancy with precarious moves at the top, especailly since I was too short to reach the side-pull below the top without stepping my feet up onto some fairly marginal ledges. Really enjoyed the moves though and felt pretty good about a clean onsight.
:0)
From my limited experience of HVS, I reckon The Chant at Burbage North is my favourite so far.
Technical & balancy with precarious moves at the top, especailly since I was too short to reach the side-pull below the top without stepping my feet up onto some fairly marginal ledges. Really enjoyed the moves though and felt pretty good about a clean onsight.
:0)
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Like everyone else my contribution can only be based on my limited range of experience but I offer;
Great Western (Almscliff)
Mandrake (Borrowdale)
Storm (Glen Nevis)
The Pause (Glen Etive)
Centurion (Ben Nevis)
Great Western (Almscliff)
Mandrake (Borrowdale)
Storm (Glen Nevis)
The Pause (Glen Etive)
Centurion (Ben Nevis)
In reply to Andy Cloquet: Amazing! I've been ignoring the Lakes & Scotland all these years because I thought there was no gritstone, but now I know, I'll have to arrange a trip ;P
grin
grin
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I was waiting for such a comment. Centurion on Ben Nevis must be my favourite grit HVS, as I've done it 5 times.
Norrie
> (In reply to Andy Cloquet) Amazing! I've been ignoring the Lakes & Scotland all these years because I thought there was no gritstone, but now I know, I'll have to arrange a trip ;P
>
Dear Nick
>
I was waiting for such a comment. Centurion on Ben Nevis must be my favourite grit HVS, as I've done it 5 times.
Norrie
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: FBD. It was the only good *** HVS at Stanage
In reply to Mike Hammill:
Nice one Mike, good to see someone is holding up the good old Yorkshire grading ethic.
How about Recttum Rift, that was HVS wan't it.
Which yorkshire HVS has been upgraded most?
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
> Opus, Virgin and Gypsy all at Almscliff, all classic HVS 5c's.
> Mike H
> Opus, Virgin and Gypsy all at Almscliff, all classic HVS 5c's.
> Mike H
Nice one Mike, good to see someone is holding up the good old Yorkshire grading ethic.
How about Recttum Rift, that was HVS wan't it.
Which yorkshire HVS has been upgraded most?
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Anything on a slab!
I've discovered after a week of climbing in the Peak and North Wales that I most definitely am NOT an HVS climber when it comes to anything vertical or (god forbid) overhanging.
I was well and truely beaten by Chequers Buttress on Saturday. I am weak - I need hands free rests!!
Have to say I loved Right Hand Twin (Bamford?)
Also quite taken by 3 pebble slab and 2 sided triangle.
Aspire to the Peapod (that well known slab climb!!)
I shall read this thread with interest when I'm not in the office and build a nice little tick list!!
Anything on a slab!
I've discovered after a week of climbing in the Peak and North Wales that I most definitely am NOT an HVS climber when it comes to anything vertical or (god forbid) overhanging.
I was well and truely beaten by Chequers Buttress on Saturday. I am weak - I need hands free rests!!
Have to say I loved Right Hand Twin (Bamford?)
Also quite taken by 3 pebble slab and 2 sided triangle.
Aspire to the Peapod (that well known slab climb!!)
I shall read this thread with interest when I'm not in the office and build a nice little tick list!!
In reply to chrishamper:
Is it Propeller Wall, Ilkley - Went from VS to HVS in the Leeds uni book. Now E5!
Might have the route name wrong.
As for the best grit HVS:
Zoom, Slipstones
Overhanging Groove, Almscliff
Memory fails me, it's been too long
jk
> Which yorkshire HVS has been upgraded most?
Is it Propeller Wall, Ilkley - Went from VS to HVS in the Leeds uni book. Now E5!
Might have the route name wrong.
As for the best grit HVS:
Zoom, Slipstones
Overhanging Groove, Almscliff
Memory fails me, it's been too long
jk
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I've only done 3 but Tody's wall was quality.
Chequers Buttress, Knights Move and anything at Millstone are on the list..
I've only done 3 but Tody's wall was quality.
Chequers Buttress, Knights Move and anything at Millstone are on the list..
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
led three pebble slab and chequer's buttress this afternoon. both fantastic hvs climbs but don't beat great north road for me. GNR-the best hvs climb i've done on grit. (not a touch on gynocrat, lower cove, mournes, NI though!)
queersville is awesome as are blizzard ridge and croton oil. brook's crack at burb south is a cracker too. so many awesome hvs's on eastern grit. ain't donoe much on western so dunno many down there yet.
led three pebble slab and chequer's buttress this afternoon. both fantastic hvs climbs but don't beat great north road for me. GNR-the best hvs climb i've done on grit. (not a touch on gynocrat, lower cove, mournes, NI though!)
queersville is awesome as are blizzard ridge and croton oil. brook's crack at burb south is a cracker too. so many awesome hvs's on eastern grit. ain't donoe much on western so dunno many down there yet.
In reply to chrishamper: After Eight at Rylstone was originally soloed and given HVS. It is now E4 6a!
In reply to hutchm:
Er...I think you missed the point. Check your history!
> (In reply to David L)
> [...]
>
> Western Front - E3 5c?
> [...]
>
> Western Front - E3 5c?
Er...I think you missed the point. Check your history!
In reply to David L: BWL: ungradable, in the good old days you either solo'd it and found it about vs or just couldn't do it. Mind you Syrett lobbed off the top crack once and went up to his thighs in the mud below - had to get hosed down by the farmer. I recall this happened to several people.
MH
MH
In reply to chrishamper: Hi Chris,
Lots of routes have been upgraded unjustifiably. I used to reckon that if I solo'd something on sight it couldn't possibly be harder than HVS on the grounds that I would never solo Valkyrie at Froggat or Peapod or any other of the major HVS routes. Rectum Rift could only be regarded as HVS after the good pebble broke off -there appears to be good gear in the final break now too!
All the best,
Mike
Lots of routes have been upgraded unjustifiably. I used to reckon that if I solo'd something on sight it couldn't possibly be harder than HVS on the grounds that I would never solo Valkyrie at Froggat or Peapod or any other of the major HVS routes. Rectum Rift could only be regarded as HVS after the good pebble broke off -there appears to be good gear in the final break now too!
All the best,
Mike
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I climbed The Peapod yesterday - it was brilliant!!
In reply to JimR:
Say Billinsgate it is HVS not E1 no matter what the guide says.
Say Billinsgate it is HVS not E1 no matter what the guide says.
In reply to Mike Hammill:
I couldn't agree more. It seems that routes get upgraded even though protection has improved as have climbing shoes so surely it should be the other way?
Best HVS on Grit? I'm not sure it's the best but it's my favourite, Chequers Buttress
I couldn't agree more. It seems that routes get upgraded even though protection has improved as have climbing shoes so surely it should be the other way?
Best HVS on Grit? I'm not sure it's the best but it's my favourite, Chequers Buttress
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Great Western at Amlscliff has to be the best I have done
Great Western at Amlscliff has to be the best I have done
In reply to Mike Hammill:
Yeuch! It's not just mud in that hole. I suppose it's better than a broken leg though...
> Mind you Syrett lobbed off the top crack once and went up to his thighs in the mud below - had to get hosed down by the farmer
Yeuch! It's not just mud in that hole. I suppose it's better than a broken leg though...
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
i've only ever done 1 and it was as second but it was great fun
pebble dash at the roaches...
jolly good show
i've only ever done 1 and it was as second but it was great fun
pebble dash at the roaches...
jolly good show
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
More of a micro-route than anything but Angels Wall at Caley is great fun.
More of a micro-route than anything but Angels Wall at Caley is great fun.
In reply to Geoff Odds:
We'll have to disagree about Billingsgate: very bold with obvious runner placements which are no longer entirely trustworthy. Your favourite Chequers Buttress is over a grade easier in my opinion.
We'll have to disagree about Billingsgate: very bold with obvious runner placements which are no longer entirely trustworthy. Your favourite Chequers Buttress is over a grade easier in my opinion.
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