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I'll begin:......I'll make no bones about this. This is research for an article for UKClimbing.com. If you tell your story, I would like to use it in the article.
I was about 13 years old and a boy scout. We used to go walking in the Lakes with our troop (run by Dave Hollands in Langho, near Blackburn - Lancashire- at St. Leonards School). One wet and windy day in Langdale I spotted a climber high on a cliff in an orange cagoule. I was captivated and decided I wanted to do that.
Next step: I bought an " I Spy" book on climbing. It told me to cut my nails and hair short, and to roll my trousers up, then find some small rocks and climb. This I did, finding some short rocks up above Langho on some moorland (off Whalley Old Road). Used to go up there a lot and scare myself silly, but I couldn't get enough of it. Still, I didn't really know how to get into climbing properly, had no mentors and was really into farming and fishing at the time so didn't take it any further.
Oddly, I was a choir boy at Pleasington Priory (near Blackburn) and at weekends used to stay with my grandmother who lived near the church. She also lived within eyesight of Houghton Quarry. I'd just read Lancashire Witches by Harrison Ainsworth, which focuses on two places, Houghton and Downham.....these two places are where I would take my first steps up proper rock climbs.
When I was 17 sixth form started at St. Mary's College, Blackburn. It was a traumatic year. First, the school had been boys only until that year (79 I think) and suddenly it was co-ed, girls everywhere, had never seen them before. Second, met a lad called John Noblett....who was a proper climber (who in turn was started by his Uncle Bernard). John was the same age as me, but had the skills and importantly the gear (all bought by mail order from Field and Trek I think).
Did my first proper climb with with John, Motorway, a two pitch Diff at Houghton Quarry....and in the rain. Walked along the railway tracks and back and everything. It was painful, wet of course, lots of vegetation, but I was hooked.
At St. Mary's an informal climbing group formed, Greg Rimmer, Chris Riley, Dave Green, John Noblet and others and on sports days we'd be out at Houghton on Rhodendron Buttress, rather than high jumping with the rest.
We had other mentors as well: the Clitheroe crew of Dave Kenyon, Pete Black, Ron Marsden and Malc Haslsam who took us under their wing.
Led my first route at Cadshaw: Column Climb...thought I was going to die...whilst skivving off school of course. First VS lead was Peel Off at Witches.......since then I've been high in the Sierra Nevada, Devils Tower, Todra Gorge and Red Rocks, having some of the best days of my life, climbed the Old Man, sport climbed, bouldered, lots of new routes, trad climbed, discovered new areas, wrote and published guidebooks, ice climbed.
Still so much more to do, places to visit, peaks and routes to climb, people to share adventures with.
It never stops.
Mick
I was about 13 years old and a boy scout. We used to go walking in the Lakes with our troop (run by Dave Hollands in Langho, near Blackburn - Lancashire- at St. Leonards School). One wet and windy day in Langdale I spotted a climber high on a cliff in an orange cagoule. I was captivated and decided I wanted to do that.
Next step: I bought an " I Spy" book on climbing. It told me to cut my nails and hair short, and to roll my trousers up, then find some small rocks and climb. This I did, finding some short rocks up above Langho on some moorland (off Whalley Old Road). Used to go up there a lot and scare myself silly, but I couldn't get enough of it. Still, I didn't really know how to get into climbing properly, had no mentors and was really into farming and fishing at the time so didn't take it any further.
Oddly, I was a choir boy at Pleasington Priory (near Blackburn) and at weekends used to stay with my grandmother who lived near the church. She also lived within eyesight of Houghton Quarry. I'd just read Lancashire Witches by Harrison Ainsworth, which focuses on two places, Houghton and Downham.....these two places are where I would take my first steps up proper rock climbs.
When I was 17 sixth form started at St. Mary's College, Blackburn. It was a traumatic year. First, the school had been boys only until that year (79 I think) and suddenly it was co-ed, girls everywhere, had never seen them before. Second, met a lad called John Noblett....who was a proper climber (who in turn was started by his Uncle Bernard). John was the same age as me, but had the skills and importantly the gear (all bought by mail order from Field and Trek I think).
Did my first proper climb with with John, Motorway, a two pitch Diff at Houghton Quarry....and in the rain. Walked along the railway tracks and back and everything. It was painful, wet of course, lots of vegetation, but I was hooked.
At St. Mary's an informal climbing group formed, Greg Rimmer, Chris Riley, Dave Green, John Noblet and others and on sports days we'd be out at Houghton on Rhodendron Buttress, rather than high jumping with the rest.
We had other mentors as well: the Clitheroe crew of Dave Kenyon, Pete Black, Ron Marsden and Malc Haslsam who took us under their wing.
Led my first route at Cadshaw: Column Climb...thought I was going to die...whilst skivving off school of course. First VS lead was Peel Off at Witches.......since then I've been high in the Sierra Nevada, Devils Tower, Todra Gorge and Red Rocks, having some of the best days of my life, climbed the Old Man, sport climbed, bouldered, lots of new routes, trad climbed, discovered new areas, wrote and published guidebooks, ice climbed.
Still so much more to do, places to visit, peaks and routes to climb, people to share adventures with.
It never stops.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Some 6 metre crack on roaches skyline - in my logbook but no time to check. was a bit crap, so went on to top rope E2's later that day. Awesomeee.
Some 6 metre crack on roaches skyline - in my logbook but no time to check. was a bit crap, so went on to top rope E2's later that day. Awesomeee.
In reply to Facejam: I was 16 and had only climbed indoors a handful of times
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: in scouts then with my maths teacher at school, stopped for a bit when doing GCSE's then went to france did sport leading... great fun, carried on indoors at worcester, got sculptors tricams began leading on nasty sandstone shizzle, girlfriends mom bought house in malvern now so broomhill quarry is my new playground.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Very simple - Dad wanted a boy first and got a girl so stuck me on a rope anyway
Got a great photo of me at Stanage at 4 years old (or there abouts) with Dad holding the rope and Mum looking concerned
Very simple - Dad wanted a boy first and got a girl so stuck me on a rope anyway
Got a great photo of me at Stanage at 4 years old (or there abouts) with Dad holding the rope and Mum looking concerned
In reply to Hubble2: i didmt know telescopes could climb... hehehe sorry:P
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I guess I had always wanted to be an explorer, and a mountaineer was closest. As a broke teenager the nearest I could get to a mountaineer for the time being was some rock climbing. Troubel was I lived about 50 miles from the nearest crag and could not drive and knew no climbers.
Luckliy I had a like minded friend. Between is we bought a rope, some slings and some krabs. And (this is the important thing) a copy of Modern rope techniques by Bill March.
Night after night we worked through the book till we though we were ready. Then we improvised harnesses and slings and set out in the dead of night for the ornimental rock gardens on the sea cliffs. These were about 80 feet high, windswept and actually quite hard climbing.
Over a year or so we would tell our parents we were going out for a run and meet at the cliffs were we would rig a top rope and climb. We often had to be very quiet and carefull lest groups of beach fisherman shoud spot us and report us.
Eventually we got older and got mobile and took it out to the crags. But I'm sure the force of economy and Bill March's book made me a better, more resourcefull climber that I would otherwise have become. It dod hold us back in other respects. I had been climbing ten years before I lowered my self to buy my first pair of rock shoes.
Luckliy I had a like minded friend. Between is we bought a rope, some slings and some krabs. And (this is the important thing) a copy of Modern rope techniques by Bill March.
Night after night we worked through the book till we though we were ready. Then we improvised harnesses and slings and set out in the dead of night for the ornimental rock gardens on the sea cliffs. These were about 80 feet high, windswept and actually quite hard climbing.
Over a year or so we would tell our parents we were going out for a run and meet at the cliffs were we would rig a top rope and climb. We often had to be very quiet and carefull lest groups of beach fisherman shoud spot us and report us.
Eventually we got older and got mobile and took it out to the crags. But I'm sure the force of economy and Bill March's book made me a better, more resourcefull climber that I would otherwise have become. It dod hold us back in other respects. I had been climbing ten years before I lowered my self to buy my first pair of rock shoes.
In reply to Gaz lord:
Not a telescope, the other Hubble
Like the other Hubble I'm little and very difficult - However, I never been put up by Ben Moon :p
Not a telescope, the other Hubble
Like the other Hubble I'm little and very difficult - However, I never been put up by Ben Moon :p
In reply to keith_D: thats cool
In reply to Gaz lord: Nothing special about how i started. I had ago at indoor climbing. And decided to try the "real" thing. I got my friend who only knew how to belay. Bought the equipment and went out and tried my fist lead climb. Survived and now im looking to go ice climbing.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I was booked to go on a BMC "Introduction to Alpine Mountaineering" course and it said in the notes that some previous climbing experience was a prerequisite. A bloke at work knew someone from Hertfordshire Mountaineering Club who was going climbing with his mate that weekend and they were kind enough to let me tag along. They taught me what I needed to know. On Saturday they led me up Hope and Lazarus, but on sunday there was a queue for Crackstone Rib and by the time I'd watched five people jibber round the corner I'd gone off the idea and ducked out. I've led it since and it's really not that bad.
I was booked to go on a BMC "Introduction to Alpine Mountaineering" course and it said in the notes that some previous climbing experience was a prerequisite. A bloke at work knew someone from Hertfordshire Mountaineering Club who was going climbing with his mate that weekend and they were kind enough to let me tag along. They taught me what I needed to know. On Saturday they led me up Hope and Lazarus, but on sunday there was a queue for Crackstone Rib and by the time I'd watched five people jibber round the corner I'd gone off the idea and ducked out. I've led it since and it's really not that bad.
In reply to Hubble2: bloody hell how many hubbles are there?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I started climbing when I was in school. I've always been a shortarse and never was particularly interested in sports in school. I wasn't ever that good at football cos I just couldn't run very fast, and rugby (I grew up in Wales) was just terrifying. You know, there was a time in high school when I was about 12 and about four foot tall, some of those boys had entered puberty and were about 6 foot. They had pubes and everything. I did not want to be holding a rugby ball with any of them anywhere near me.
One year, when I was about 14 I guess, we had the option to do "outdoor pursuits" with the Geography teacher, Kevin Bailey. I discovered that I was actually quite good at climbing up things, after toproping trips to Pot Hole Quarry and Craig-y-Forwyn at Llangollen.
Kev managed to motivate a whole little group of us of different ages who carried on climbing together after we'd left school. I was very keen for a few years after leaving school, and got to know a few other local climbers (the climbing world is pretty small after all). Tyler used to climb in paisley pyjamas.
University life did not lend itself well to climbing, for me. Going out and partying was much more attractive. I barely climbed anything during my university life, despite living in Henry Price building for one of those years. Over the last few years I've realised more and more that I just really like climbing up things. I do it when I can now and I've met some fantastic people.
And now you've got me thinking, I do remember Kev Bailey saying that there was one route he'd always like to do - A Dream of White Horses. He always reckoned he wasn't good enough to do it. This thread's got me proper thinking and I'm going to get in touch and offer to drag him along it (in the middle of a three).
I started climbing when I was in school. I've always been a shortarse and never was particularly interested in sports in school. I wasn't ever that good at football cos I just couldn't run very fast, and rugby (I grew up in Wales) was just terrifying. You know, there was a time in high school when I was about 12 and about four foot tall, some of those boys had entered puberty and were about 6 foot. They had pubes and everything. I did not want to be holding a rugby ball with any of them anywhere near me.
One year, when I was about 14 I guess, we had the option to do "outdoor pursuits" with the Geography teacher, Kevin Bailey. I discovered that I was actually quite good at climbing up things, after toproping trips to Pot Hole Quarry and Craig-y-Forwyn at Llangollen.
Kev managed to motivate a whole little group of us of different ages who carried on climbing together after we'd left school. I was very keen for a few years after leaving school, and got to know a few other local climbers (the climbing world is pretty small after all). Tyler used to climb in paisley pyjamas.
University life did not lend itself well to climbing, for me. Going out and partying was much more attractive. I barely climbed anything during my university life, despite living in Henry Price building for one of those years. Over the last few years I've realised more and more that I just really like climbing up things. I do it when I can now and I've met some fantastic people.
And now you've got me thinking, I do remember Kev Bailey saying that there was one route he'd always like to do - A Dream of White Horses. He always reckoned he wasn't good enough to do it. This thread's got me proper thinking and I'm going to get in touch and offer to drag him along it (in the middle of a three).
In reply to Gaz lord:
Three...
1) The telescope
2) Hubble http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=15493
3) The one that posts on here
The second one is worth a look, everyone needs a dream :p
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Well since i was very young i'd always wanted to climb, but was told by everyone i knew it was a very expensive sport to get into ( I think they didn't want me falling and getting hurt, although i did this alot anyway on climbing frames).
Anyway after a few years it turned out a friend of mines cousin had just started climbing and offered to take me and my brother, I was hooked and bought some rockboots from money i'd been saving.
I continued to climb indoors for about 3 years due to transport to crags problems, and then started outdoor climbing with a friend and love it even more. I really want to get into Alpine climbing now though.
Only problem with climbing though is its like a drug and when you dont climb for while due to injury, You get withdrawl symptoms
Well since i was very young i'd always wanted to climb, but was told by everyone i knew it was a very expensive sport to get into ( I think they didn't want me falling and getting hurt, although i did this alot anyway on climbing frames).
Anyway after a few years it turned out a friend of mines cousin had just started climbing and offered to take me and my brother, I was hooked and bought some rockboots from money i'd been saving.
I continued to climb indoors for about 3 years due to transport to crags problems, and then started outdoor climbing with a friend and love it even more. I really want to get into Alpine climbing now though.
Only problem with climbing though is its like a drug and when you dont climb for while due to injury, You get withdrawl symptoms
In reply to Hubble2: so in that order shouldnt you be hubble3? hahaaaaaaaaaaaaa#
'The second one is worth a look, everyone needs a dream' what about the third?
'The second one is worth a look, everyone needs a dream' what about the third?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Well, as something of a contrast I started at 30...
Some 'experienced' friends on who were doing SPA training invited me to North Wales where we did Crib Goch and N Ridge of Tryfan. I remember ecstatically galloping along Crib Goch and then looking back after the knife edge section to see my friends, amongst many others, picking their way across cautiously and nervously many hundred of metres back, so i thought 'this scrambling lark's fun and an absolute piece of cake - best i give climbing a go...'
It took nearly a year at the indoor wall and then lots of chivvying new climbing friends before I persuaded them to take me to Stanage. I can still remember the awe i felt at my mate Jenny leading Amazon crack (S) and my feeling of achievement at following it.
My other abiding memory is of my walking up to Stanage and thinking 'how on earth do they know where to go? Surely the guidebook can't show *every* crack on the whole face" I'm still in awe of guidebook writers!
Steve
Well, as something of a contrast I started at 30...
Some 'experienced' friends on who were doing SPA training invited me to North Wales where we did Crib Goch and N Ridge of Tryfan. I remember ecstatically galloping along Crib Goch and then looking back after the knife edge section to see my friends, amongst many others, picking their way across cautiously and nervously many hundred of metres back, so i thought 'this scrambling lark's fun and an absolute piece of cake - best i give climbing a go...'
It took nearly a year at the indoor wall and then lots of chivvying new climbing friends before I persuaded them to take me to Stanage. I can still remember the awe i felt at my mate Jenny leading Amazon crack (S) and my feeling of achievement at following it.
My other abiding memory is of my walking up to Stanage and thinking 'how on earth do they know where to go? Surely the guidebook can't show *every* crack on the whole face" I'm still in awe of guidebook writers!
Steve
In reply to Hubble2:
I have a picture of my daughter roped up with her helmet on (aged 4, first day I ever took her climbing) she still talks, 3 years on about it as if it was the best day of her life
I now use it to scare her mother and grandparents
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Very simple - Dad wanted a boy first and got a girl so stuck me on a rope anyway
>
> Got a great photo of me at Stanage at 4 years old (or there abouts) with Dad holding the rope and Mum looking concerned
>
> Very simple - Dad wanted a boy first and got a girl so stuck me on a rope anyway
>
> Got a great photo of me at Stanage at 4 years old (or there abouts) with Dad holding the rope and Mum looking concerned
I have a picture of my daughter roped up with her helmet on (aged 4, first day I ever took her climbing) she still talks, 3 years on about it as if it was the best day of her life
I now use it to scare her mother and grandparents
In reply to Gaz lord:
Ok, will ask the mods to re name me A few of those who know me would refer to me more as a nightmare. DPM is a good point of reference
On a serious note... It is an awesome looking climb, over hanging with no holds. I've seen loads of people try it, better never seen anyone get close :os
Ok, will ask the mods to re name me A few of those who know me would refer to me more as a nightmare. DPM is a good point of reference
On a serious note... It is an awesome looking climb, over hanging with no holds. I've seen loads of people try it, better never seen anyone get close :os
In reply to Hubble2: nightmare...dpm eh?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Got fed up with canoeing in Scotland every weekend (had been doing that for 10 years or so) so me and some friends started hillwalking, mainly in winters instead.
Went out to Chamonix in summer of 94, wandered up Tacul unroped but was amazed that everyone else seemed to be roped.
Went up to Grand Mulet hut a couple of days later, again unroped, but during the glacier crossing realised we were being quite silly.
Came back down the next day (back over the glacier) and bought a rope and harness in Chamonix.
Spent the next day learing what to do with a rope in the campsite - guess we looked rather odd.
After that trip we shelved the rope etc until winter rolled around then went up to the Buachaille and did some climbs there with rope and harness on - basically soloing as we had no gear (apart from crampons and walking axes).
Read a few books around that time, did some practice, and just kept getting out there in winters and building up a rack.
Probably did 3-4 winter seasons before thinking about rock climbing during summer months, they were for going back to Cham and getting on the white stuff.
Only do limited summer stuff, mainly just to keep ropework skills ticking over, live for winters though.
Got fed up with canoeing in Scotland every weekend (had been doing that for 10 years or so) so me and some friends started hillwalking, mainly in winters instead.
Went out to Chamonix in summer of 94, wandered up Tacul unroped but was amazed that everyone else seemed to be roped.
Went up to Grand Mulet hut a couple of days later, again unroped, but during the glacier crossing realised we were being quite silly.
Came back down the next day (back over the glacier) and bought a rope and harness in Chamonix.
Spent the next day learing what to do with a rope in the campsite - guess we looked rather odd.
After that trip we shelved the rope etc until winter rolled around then went up to the Buachaille and did some climbs there with rope and harness on - basically soloing as we had no gear (apart from crampons and walking axes).
Read a few books around that time, did some practice, and just kept getting out there in winters and building up a rack.
Probably did 3-4 winter seasons before thinking about rock climbing during summer months, they were for going back to Cham and getting on the white stuff.
Only do limited summer stuff, mainly just to keep ropework skills ticking over, live for winters though.
In reply to Stew.G:
I think it's good for kids, gets them into the outdoors. The strange thing is, my brother isn't interested and yet he started at the same age.
At 14 I resented Dad for making us go to the Peak every other weekend. 13 years on and I'm trying to relocate to the North. It's funny how things change.
Climbing is the one thing Dad and I have in common. Went for a beer with him tonight and found out he put a route up in the Gower in the 70's, we were there at the weekend. His stories are great... and he knows Sutty from the old days (not that Sutty remembers)
I think it's good for kids, gets them into the outdoors. The strange thing is, my brother isn't interested and yet he started at the same age.
At 14 I resented Dad for making us go to the Peak every other weekend. 13 years on and I'm trying to relocate to the North. It's funny how things change.
Climbing is the one thing Dad and I have in common. Went for a beer with him tonight and found out he put a route up in the Gower in the 70's, we were there at the weekend. His stories are great... and he knows Sutty from the old days (not that Sutty remembers)
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I felt so depressed I was considering suicide when someone who I had turned to put me in touch with a freind of theirs who climbed. Heights was my biggest fear so I thought why not. a lot more to it than that but thats the gist of it
In reply to Gaz lord:
It's a joke between me and Dpm - he thinks I'm a nightmare and I think he's a doughnut Great guy to climb with though, just don't tell him I said so :p
It's a joke between me and Dpm - he thinks I'm a nightmare and I think he's a doughnut Great guy to climb with though, just don't tell him I said so :p
In reply to Hubble2: very strange
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
my dad had various bits and bobs lying around, karabiners and the like, and one of my earliest memories is of my big brother tying my twin brother to a tree, using some retro (and thus rather un-easy to unscrew) karabiners to secure him, and my dad having to come home from work to rescue my twin brother. I remember thinking 'hmm...' in a noncommittal yet interested way.
My stepdad then took us climbing at Brimham Rocks when I was seven. I was so scared I wet myself. (this hasn't happened since, fear fans).
I went on one of those godawful school 'outward bound' trips at school when I was about 14, the sort where all the girls are busy worrying about hairgel and boys, apart from me who was overwhelmed by existentialist angst... and found that getting up rocks was something I could actually do, much to my surprise.
when I was 18 and feeling all rebellious (yes, I really did think that doing an art foundation was a great strike for freedom against the vicious oppression of... my parents) I signed up for an indoor climbing course at York's rather curious wall.
I then went to study in Norwich. D'oh.
and on trundled the relentless progress of my mission to climb. Not exactly speedy, I'll grant you.
when I was 25 my friend Roger decided he needed a belay bunny and lo, onward I hurtled towards the world of climbing. I've been climbing ever since.
how *very* exciting.
er...
my dad had various bits and bobs lying around, karabiners and the like, and one of my earliest memories is of my big brother tying my twin brother to a tree, using some retro (and thus rather un-easy to unscrew) karabiners to secure him, and my dad having to come home from work to rescue my twin brother. I remember thinking 'hmm...' in a noncommittal yet interested way.
My stepdad then took us climbing at Brimham Rocks when I was seven. I was so scared I wet myself. (this hasn't happened since, fear fans).
I went on one of those godawful school 'outward bound' trips at school when I was about 14, the sort where all the girls are busy worrying about hairgel and boys, apart from me who was overwhelmed by existentialist angst... and found that getting up rocks was something I could actually do, much to my surprise.
when I was 18 and feeling all rebellious (yes, I really did think that doing an art foundation was a great strike for freedom against the vicious oppression of... my parents) I signed up for an indoor climbing course at York's rather curious wall.
I then went to study in Norwich. D'oh.
and on trundled the relentless progress of my mission to climb. Not exactly speedy, I'll grant you.
when I was 25 my friend Roger decided he needed a belay bunny and lo, onward I hurtled towards the world of climbing. I've been climbing ever since.
how *very* exciting.
er...
In reply to CJD: <hijack> Oh forget to ask how are you finding the new camera, im thinking of maybe getting one.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Basically I started at aged 11 ish on trips to North Wales and the Lakes, Started by scrambling and then through the Air Scouts got into hill camping and eventually climbing.
When I was in Papua New Guinea and Oz in my late teens got into the mountains quite a bit.
Dropped it for a while when I came back to the UK then when I moved to Derbyshire in '88 and living next to Black Rocks just soloed stuff until I nearly dropped off a route, decided to then get a partner but I'm just not a group person quite shy and don't do big groups of people so just hooked up with people over the years at crags. Climbing basically lifts my perennial depression and I enjoy flowing on the rock.
As an aside, through climbing, mountains and teh internet I got into photography in a bigger way and through UKC-Ian Hill - JCT decided to do a degree in it and haven't looked back so climbing has effectively changed my life
I still attribute my love of Hills to looking at B&W images of Mountains and tracing with my finger the routes from bottom to top.
Basically I started at aged 11 ish on trips to North Wales and the Lakes, Started by scrambling and then through the Air Scouts got into hill camping and eventually climbing.
When I was in Papua New Guinea and Oz in my late teens got into the mountains quite a bit.
Dropped it for a while when I came back to the UK then when I moved to Derbyshire in '88 and living next to Black Rocks just soloed stuff until I nearly dropped off a route, decided to then get a partner but I'm just not a group person quite shy and don't do big groups of people so just hooked up with people over the years at crags. Climbing basically lifts my perennial depression and I enjoy flowing on the rock.
As an aside, through climbing, mountains and teh internet I got into photography in a bigger way and through UKC-Ian Hill - JCT decided to do a degree in it and haven't looked back so climbing has effectively changed my life
I still attribute my love of Hills to looking at B&W images of Mountains and tracing with my finger the routes from bottom to top.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I grew up in North Wales, and since a youngster had always been interested in the people I'd see in The Pass climbing up the rocks - I'd happily sit for hours and watch them from a distance.
I didn't get the chance to try it myself until moving to Africa and being fortunate enough to have a teacher who was a climber and started a school climbing club. There was a lot of opposition to this - the school was very much rugby, athletics, cricket and hockey. We'd go out for weekends every month, but soon the core, of about 15 kids, were too much to handle so three of us were 'selected' as leaders. This eased the pressure, as over the weekends we could always have groups of 3 or 4 climbing at the same time. There was even a 'badge' and logbook system to track progression. In school holidays we'd do longer, week long, trips to the mountain ranges. I can't see teachers getting away with this sort of thing these days.....
This all led to a bit of conflict; in my case coming to a head when I was selected at Thursday rugby practice to play for the 'A' team at the weekend - I'd always been 'B' team captain, but injury had created an opening. I had to turn it down because of a pre-arranged climbing trip (I'd known 'B's weren't playing that weekend) and was told in front of the rest of the team that if that was my decision, I was not welcome at rugby anymore. I didn't turn up again. there is a good side to this - my final German oral 18 months later was taken by the rugby coach and it soon turned into (an English) discussion of why I'd given up rugby. I explained, he claimed he didn't mean what he said, I passed my German A level.
I've drifted off the point a bit, but never underestimate the power of rugby in certain institutions or how climbing is (still?) regarded as a strange pastime with a perculiar attraction.
Anyway. I carried on with it; went back at times after I'd left school to help out with the leading. Peaked about 30 years ago but still enjoy it just as much.
I grew up in North Wales, and since a youngster had always been interested in the people I'd see in The Pass climbing up the rocks - I'd happily sit for hours and watch them from a distance.
I didn't get the chance to try it myself until moving to Africa and being fortunate enough to have a teacher who was a climber and started a school climbing club. There was a lot of opposition to this - the school was very much rugby, athletics, cricket and hockey. We'd go out for weekends every month, but soon the core, of about 15 kids, were too much to handle so three of us were 'selected' as leaders. This eased the pressure, as over the weekends we could always have groups of 3 or 4 climbing at the same time. There was even a 'badge' and logbook system to track progression. In school holidays we'd do longer, week long, trips to the mountain ranges. I can't see teachers getting away with this sort of thing these days.....
This all led to a bit of conflict; in my case coming to a head when I was selected at Thursday rugby practice to play for the 'A' team at the weekend - I'd always been 'B' team captain, but injury had created an opening. I had to turn it down because of a pre-arranged climbing trip (I'd known 'B's weren't playing that weekend) and was told in front of the rest of the team that if that was my decision, I was not welcome at rugby anymore. I didn't turn up again. there is a good side to this - my final German oral 18 months later was taken by the rugby coach and it soon turned into (an English) discussion of why I'd given up rugby. I explained, he claimed he didn't mean what he said, I passed my German A level.
I've drifted off the point a bit, but never underestimate the power of rugby in certain institutions or how climbing is (still?) regarded as a strange pastime with a perculiar attraction.
Anyway. I carried on with it; went back at times after I'd left school to help out with the leading. Peaked about 30 years ago but still enjoy it just as much.
In reply to CJD:
That could so have gone a different way from the climbing way.
Actually, thinking about it, I don't know if it did go that way too.
> one of my earliest memories is of my big brother tying my twin brother to a tree, [...] and my dad having to come home from work to rescue [him]. I remember thinking 'hmm...' in a noncommittal yet interested way.
That could so have gone a different way from the climbing way.
Actually, thinking about it, I don't know if it did go that way too.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I've always been happiest outside, and last year, scrambled (somewhat unwisely, perhaps) up Tryfan. At that point I thought...'hmm, what more could I do up here that's moderately dangerous, kinda sexy and energising?' Yup, climbing sprang to mind, so I came home, Googled something that resulted in this forum springing forth from the deepest bowels of the search engine and I registered, logged on and posted a plea for someone, anyone to come and introduce me to the world of climbing....
My family aren't in the slighest bit sporty, other than my late maternal grandpa who lived in Snowdonia and though never climbed, was an eager scrambler well into his 70s. So any genetic allusion to mountain-goatness comes from him.
I've always been happiest outside, and last year, scrambled (somewhat unwisely, perhaps) up Tryfan. At that point I thought...'hmm, what more could I do up here that's moderately dangerous, kinda sexy and energising?' Yup, climbing sprang to mind, so I came home, Googled something that resulted in this forum springing forth from the deepest bowels of the search engine and I registered, logged on and posted a plea for someone, anyone to come and introduce me to the world of climbing....
My family aren't in the slighest bit sporty, other than my late maternal grandpa who lived in Snowdonia and though never climbed, was an eager scrambler well into his 70s. So any genetic allusion to mountain-goatness comes from him.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I've always been pretty sporty and always fancied giving climbing a go. A couple of my mates started going to the wall and invited me to go along and try it and I jumped at the chance. I went down, hired some gear, had a bit of a play and absolutely loved it. After a year of indoor climbing, doing a bit of scrambling and discovering that you could climb outdoors too (yes, I was that dumb and naive at the start) I found UKC and went along on CJD's skills meet at Burbage North last year. I turned up, played with gear at the base of the crag, was shown how to rig a belay and then some kind soul (SCC I think) took me in hand to belay me up Ring Chimney. I don't remember anything about the route apart from the abject fear but I was chuffed to bits when I topped out. I led another diff that day and went out with Carolynr and crew the week after and led a vdiff, a diff and did my first second. I got home, me and a mate ordered some gear and between us we had our first rack. I taught her what little I knew and we went to various peak crags, egged each other on to try harder and harder stuff (to the heady heights of HS) and generally had a right laugh, learning stuff and meeting lovely folk along the way.
I've always been pretty sporty and always fancied giving climbing a go. A couple of my mates started going to the wall and invited me to go along and try it and I jumped at the chance. I went down, hired some gear, had a bit of a play and absolutely loved it. After a year of indoor climbing, doing a bit of scrambling and discovering that you could climb outdoors too (yes, I was that dumb and naive at the start) I found UKC and went along on CJD's skills meet at Burbage North last year. I turned up, played with gear at the base of the crag, was shown how to rig a belay and then some kind soul (SCC I think) took me in hand to belay me up Ring Chimney. I don't remember anything about the route apart from the abject fear but I was chuffed to bits when I topped out. I led another diff that day and went out with Carolynr and crew the week after and led a vdiff, a diff and did my first second. I got home, me and a mate ordered some gear and between us we had our first rack. I taught her what little I knew and we went to various peak crags, egged each other on to try harder and harder stuff (to the heady heights of HS) and generally had a right laugh, learning stuff and meeting lovely folk along the way.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I was 5 , it was 1953, Everest was climbed. I have never looked back.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
15 years old, used have to wait half an hour for the bus home from Richmond. I got interested in trying to traverse a narrow ledge under a bridge over the River Swale and then climbing the castle walls - and one thing led to another!
Chris
15 years old, used have to wait half an hour for the bus home from Richmond. I got interested in trying to traverse a narrow ledge under a bridge over the River Swale and then climbing the castle walls - and one thing led to another!
Chris
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Scouts.
I've grown up in scouting but have never been allowed to join until I was 14 when I joined Explorer Scouts as we didn't have girls in beavers/cubs/scouts.
My mum was Beaver leader, then Cub leader, then (and is now) Assistant Scout leader as I grew up so I was allowed to go climbing with them as our Scout Leader has been climbing for years and is an instructor.
It's progressed from there really, one of the courses at my college is Adventure Sports so I have made friends with a lot of keen climbers who take me out with them when they can and I go with Scouts at any chance.
I always help run climbing with my scout leader when we are asked to run it for cubs etc so I work around/help young children to learn quite a bit.
Scouts.
I've grown up in scouting but have never been allowed to join until I was 14 when I joined Explorer Scouts as we didn't have girls in beavers/cubs/scouts.
My mum was Beaver leader, then Cub leader, then (and is now) Assistant Scout leader as I grew up so I was allowed to go climbing with them as our Scout Leader has been climbing for years and is an instructor.
It's progressed from there really, one of the courses at my college is Adventure Sports so I have made friends with a lot of keen climbers who take me out with them when they can and I go with Scouts at any chance.
I always help run climbing with my scout leader when we are asked to run it for cubs etc so I work around/help young children to learn quite a bit.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Since I was a teenager with keen hillwalking parents, I'd seen people climb on the mountains but hadn't a clue how you started that sort of thing. But I was always in awe of the climbers as I trudged up footpaths.
When I met my husband in my mid 20s, he always promised to teach me to climb. He wasn't an active climber, but had done lots in the army and had some gear. However, like many promises, it was one he never fulfilled.
When he left me, I was distraught, but I determined to get on with life. Climbing was one thing he was meant to show me how to do, so it was a perfect thing to do by myself to show I didn't need him.
In practise, it was a fairly roundabout path that brought me here. 2 days after my now ex-husband walked out on me, I signed up for a 100km charity walk. I found the OutdoorsMagic website for general tips, and a couple of months later, went on a meet with people from there. It was more or less the first time I'd left the house in 4 months - the split from the ex had hit me hard.
Over the next few months I met people who not only walked, but also climbed, and went along to a meet where people showed me what to do. I climbed indoors for a couple of months, then one guy offered to take me outside. I assumed I'd just be seconding, but after following 2 easy routes, he handed me the rack and asked me to choose a route to lead. I've never really looked back since.
That was just over 2yrs ago. In that time, the guy in question has turned into my bloke. We climbed together until summer 05, when an accident meant he could no longer climb. I had to be brave all over again and find new partners, hence going to a UKC picnic where I met Nick Smith. I've since climbed a lot in the Peak with Nick, met others, taught others to climb, and have been all over the place meeting brilliant people and seeing amazing sights.
Divorce? In hindsight, one of the best things that could have happened - I'd certainly never have had the confidence to take up a lifestyle I'd always admired from afar otherwise.
As a last comment - twice last year I was on mountain routes, overlooking footpaths, seeing kids/teens look up, in awe of the climbers. I smiled to myself - that had been me
Since I was a teenager with keen hillwalking parents, I'd seen people climb on the mountains but hadn't a clue how you started that sort of thing. But I was always in awe of the climbers as I trudged up footpaths.
When I met my husband in my mid 20s, he always promised to teach me to climb. He wasn't an active climber, but had done lots in the army and had some gear. However, like many promises, it was one he never fulfilled.
When he left me, I was distraught, but I determined to get on with life. Climbing was one thing he was meant to show me how to do, so it was a perfect thing to do by myself to show I didn't need him.
In practise, it was a fairly roundabout path that brought me here. 2 days after my now ex-husband walked out on me, I signed up for a 100km charity walk. I found the OutdoorsMagic website for general tips, and a couple of months later, went on a meet with people from there. It was more or less the first time I'd left the house in 4 months - the split from the ex had hit me hard.
Over the next few months I met people who not only walked, but also climbed, and went along to a meet where people showed me what to do. I climbed indoors for a couple of months, then one guy offered to take me outside. I assumed I'd just be seconding, but after following 2 easy routes, he handed me the rack and asked me to choose a route to lead. I've never really looked back since.
That was just over 2yrs ago. In that time, the guy in question has turned into my bloke. We climbed together until summer 05, when an accident meant he could no longer climb. I had to be brave all over again and find new partners, hence going to a UKC picnic where I met Nick Smith. I've since climbed a lot in the Peak with Nick, met others, taught others to climb, and have been all over the place meeting brilliant people and seeing amazing sights.
Divorce? In hindsight, one of the best things that could have happened - I'd certainly never have had the confidence to take up a lifestyle I'd always admired from afar otherwise.
As a last comment - twice last year I was on mountain routes, overlooking footpaths, seeing kids/teens look up, in awe of the climbers. I smiled to myself - that had been me
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Used to knock about with a lad when i was a kid and his dad dragged him kicking and screaming to the peak (on the 252) every Sunday to go walking. Went one Sunday for a laugh and my 13 year old buddie was glad of the company. I took great interest of the map reading side and progressed enough to help plan future routes. Always liked to to include a place of interst on the way, either water or rock. Did Matlock to Bakewell the long way one day and took in Stanton moor, Rowter Rocks and Cratcliffe. Watched gooey eyed as a climber dispatched Fern Hill. Loved the look of all the gear and raided the school libary for climbing books.
By the time I was 15 I was hitching into the Peak or taking my bike on the Matlcok train and riding the rest of the way. I had a 'climbers belt' and the leg loops came seperate!, had half a doz crabs and wires and 30M of static rope bought off the reel at Derby Mountain Centre. Self taught to abb, place gear and belay etc I started to bug climbers at Black Rocks and Willersley to Let me have a go, and i bet that some of those very same climbers post on here - thanks mates for the seconds you let me do! I weren't doing bad really, I'd solo left and right on railway slab dozens of times over (VS and HVS now!) and could do the middle with a prussic on my static rope!!!
Still got my croft B3's too!
Got in with a crowd of like minded nutters about the same same age and my parents thought i was big and bad enough for weekends on my own in the peak camping/dossing.
We'd choose a route and one would belay from the top as we'd not enough gear to lead it properly!
The fist mrs blanchie and blanchets came and went and giving them days out in my old playgrounds gave me that bug again, Now have mrs blanchie mk2 who is sporty herself, although not a climber she knows what the 'buzz' is and gives me a free(ish) rein. Have two regular partners who i have great respect for, i've climbed with some of UKC's finest and my eldest lad now wants to enrole in the climbing course at blackpool's newest climbing wall. will i let him? what do you think!
I'm pushing real hard at 5b, i don't think thats bad for a fourty something stuck in an office all day,after all, its the rock i love not how steep it is. I love the life climbing has given to me and the memories i have and the ones that are coming!
blanchie
Used to knock about with a lad when i was a kid and his dad dragged him kicking and screaming to the peak (on the 252) every Sunday to go walking. Went one Sunday for a laugh and my 13 year old buddie was glad of the company. I took great interest of the map reading side and progressed enough to help plan future routes. Always liked to to include a place of interst on the way, either water or rock. Did Matlock to Bakewell the long way one day and took in Stanton moor, Rowter Rocks and Cratcliffe. Watched gooey eyed as a climber dispatched Fern Hill. Loved the look of all the gear and raided the school libary for climbing books.
By the time I was 15 I was hitching into the Peak or taking my bike on the Matlcok train and riding the rest of the way. I had a 'climbers belt' and the leg loops came seperate!, had half a doz crabs and wires and 30M of static rope bought off the reel at Derby Mountain Centre. Self taught to abb, place gear and belay etc I started to bug climbers at Black Rocks and Willersley to Let me have a go, and i bet that some of those very same climbers post on here - thanks mates for the seconds you let me do! I weren't doing bad really, I'd solo left and right on railway slab dozens of times over (VS and HVS now!) and could do the middle with a prussic on my static rope!!!
Still got my croft B3's too!
Got in with a crowd of like minded nutters about the same same age and my parents thought i was big and bad enough for weekends on my own in the peak camping/dossing.
We'd choose a route and one would belay from the top as we'd not enough gear to lead it properly!
The fist mrs blanchie and blanchets came and went and giving them days out in my old playgrounds gave me that bug again, Now have mrs blanchie mk2 who is sporty herself, although not a climber she knows what the 'buzz' is and gives me a free(ish) rein. Have two regular partners who i have great respect for, i've climbed with some of UKC's finest and my eldest lad now wants to enrole in the climbing course at blackpool's newest climbing wall. will i let him? what do you think!
I'm pushing real hard at 5b, i don't think thats bad for a fourty something stuck in an office all day,after all, its the rock i love not how steep it is. I love the life climbing has given to me and the memories i have and the ones that are coming!
blanchie
In reply to blanchie14c: I'd say get ya lad climbing at the new wall, a new course will be starting in about 3 weeks or so. Or try out the new bouldering wall thats now open.
In reply to Hubble2:
Ermm, posting on a public forum you know I spend way too much tim reading - sensible! She's not so bad herself - migth even get to climb with her now that she's remembered what a harness is.
In reply to OP:
Went climbing with Scouts a couple of times around the age of eleven. This was on Southern Sandstone but suprisingly it didn't put me off. Thought nothing more about climbing until I was going round fresher's fair (98) with a guy off my floor in halls (later to become a housemate and regular climbing partner) who joined the mountaineering club so I thought why not.
Did a little climbing over the next three years, limited by a) my crapness and b) a frequent in-growing toe nail that an incompetent uni doctor seemed incapable of fixing. Mainly climbed outdoors but only ever seconded and only up to about Severe. I moved at the end of uni to take up a new job and thought I'd get settled before thinking about climbing. Two years later I finally got round to getting back into it.
Started off again at the Bristol wall and eventually did an outdoor lead course with them. Did a fair amount of climbing in 2005, before meeting cider nut at the end of the year and being properly introduced to the madness of UKC. This allowed me to find more climbing partners and 2006 turned into my best climbing year yet, helped by a move to Manchester in September.
2007 looks like being even better and last weekend I finally led Scavenger (Three Cliffs) onsite, a route I'd dreamed of being able to just second when I saw it so many time while I was at uni in Swansea. More than a little pleased!
> It's a joke between me and Dpm - he thinks I'm a nightmare and I think he's a doughnut Great guy to climb with though, just don't tell him I said so :p
Ermm, posting on a public forum you know I spend way too much tim reading - sensible! She's not so bad herself - migth even get to climb with her now that she's remembered what a harness is.
In reply to OP:
Went climbing with Scouts a couple of times around the age of eleven. This was on Southern Sandstone but suprisingly it didn't put me off. Thought nothing more about climbing until I was going round fresher's fair (98) with a guy off my floor in halls (later to become a housemate and regular climbing partner) who joined the mountaineering club so I thought why not.
Did a little climbing over the next three years, limited by a) my crapness and b) a frequent in-growing toe nail that an incompetent uni doctor seemed incapable of fixing. Mainly climbed outdoors but only ever seconded and only up to about Severe. I moved at the end of uni to take up a new job and thought I'd get settled before thinking about climbing. Two years later I finally got round to getting back into it.
Started off again at the Bristol wall and eventually did an outdoor lead course with them. Did a fair amount of climbing in 2005, before meeting cider nut at the end of the year and being properly introduced to the madness of UKC. This allowed me to find more climbing partners and 2006 turned into my best climbing year yet, helped by a move to Manchester in September.
2007 looks like being even better and last weekend I finally led Scavenger (Three Cliffs) onsite, a route I'd dreamed of being able to just second when I saw it so many time while I was at uni in Swansea. More than a little pleased!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I was fortunate enough to be born and bred in Grindleford in the Peak and my first memory of going out and about was on Christmas Day circa 1979 when I must have been about four years old...
My Grandad was a Peakite through and though - see:
http://www.fatherstales.co.uk/
..and I had a "Million Dollar Man doll" for a pressie which I clutched in my arms while we went through the that then "THE white gate" at Froggatt and played about on the now named "hair pin" boulder. I remember the chips on on the slab and the big dishes on the top - filled with icy water and my dad helping me off the boulder.
We went over to the boulders over the top of the edge in the woods - my Grandad called them the "U" rocks and today they are still hidden away half way on the track.
They hold a place in my heart as "Dave C" and myself did a problem on them some 27 years later and we had a ball doing a last great line - working it until we topped out with grins a mile wide...
I used to arse about after that in trees and soloing rocks that I can't remember what - where or how - but one place we used to go was Tegness Quarry below the Grouse pub.
We used to get to the top of the Pinnacle and then worry how to get down - but always managinging it.
In School I hooked up with some of the Peak locals & Dave Gregory showed us some ropes - literally and told us to go have some fun. I will always remember the moment he gave us his 1979 Froggatt guide and being a bit of a book worm -poured over the lines and area's to be found - I was instantly hooked and wanted to know more!
I was 14 and Dave had taught my Dad, & my Uncles and when I was in his in his Physics class for the 1st time - doing the register - he shouted - "not another bloody Jacques" - my family had indeed pre- done me in the bad lad stakes - but Dave took us under his wing and the dream began...
Wonderfull beginnings...
Simon
I was fortunate enough to be born and bred in Grindleford in the Peak and my first memory of going out and about was on Christmas Day circa 1979 when I must have been about four years old...
My Grandad was a Peakite through and though - see:
http://www.fatherstales.co.uk/
..and I had a "Million Dollar Man doll" for a pressie which I clutched in my arms while we went through the that then "THE white gate" at Froggatt and played about on the now named "hair pin" boulder. I remember the chips on on the slab and the big dishes on the top - filled with icy water and my dad helping me off the boulder.
We went over to the boulders over the top of the edge in the woods - my Grandad called them the "U" rocks and today they are still hidden away half way on the track.
They hold a place in my heart as "Dave C" and myself did a problem on them some 27 years later and we had a ball doing a last great line - working it until we topped out with grins a mile wide...
I used to arse about after that in trees and soloing rocks that I can't remember what - where or how - but one place we used to go was Tegness Quarry below the Grouse pub.
We used to get to the top of the Pinnacle and then worry how to get down - but always managinging it.
In School I hooked up with some of the Peak locals & Dave Gregory showed us some ropes - literally and told us to go have some fun. I will always remember the moment he gave us his 1979 Froggatt guide and being a bit of a book worm -poured over the lines and area's to be found - I was instantly hooked and wanted to know more!
I was 14 and Dave had taught my Dad, & my Uncles and when I was in his in his Physics class for the 1st time - doing the register - he shouted - "not another bloody Jacques" - my family had indeed pre- done me in the bad lad stakes - but Dave took us under his wing and the dream began...
Wonderfull beginnings...
Simon
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Having spent most of the 90's backpacking around the world, mostly to S.E Asia, i travelled many times to India and Nepal. I hiked the Annapurna trail (in 12 days and damaged my achilles) Then in 1998 myself and a friend hired a guide for the then restricted Kangchenjunga bace camp trek. One night we were in the remote town of Ghunsa (about 10 days hike into the trip) and my trekking partner said "Oh god, there's Alan Burgess". Having no idea who he was she proceeded to give me a run down on his achievements. He was guiding a group of Americans on the same timescale we were on.
So, at the last camp before heading to BC i spent a few hours chatting with him, liked what he told me about mountaineering and decided when i got back to UK i would enrol in a course.
So, a year later i decided to do some research and joined Jagged Globes Intro to Mountaineering Course up in Scotland. They pair off room mates that are similar, mine was Tom, a 24yr old from Leeds (i myself was 27 and from Manchester). We got on brilliantly from day 1, well with the exception of his rather vocal snoring during the night!
Tom asked me what grade i climbed, i told him i had never tried it, his reply "You've never rock climbed yet you are attending a mountaineering course, you must have balls of steel!" Not for the first time in my life i'v been called mad!
So, we arranged to meet a month later up in Leeds, a quick trip to the outdoor shop and i had a pair of shoes, harness, chalk bag and 8 quickdraws. Then, off to Baildon bank for some quarried grit. I 2nd'd Tom up a couple of VS's then he hands me the rope (i'd forgotten how to tie the Fig 8) there you go, climbe that one........ 10 mins later i had my first lead under my belt, 2 climbs later i'd 2nd'd an HVS cleanly.
The following winter i put a thread on UKclimbing looking for someone to climb in Scotland, Mark Stevenson replied. We met at a service station on the M6,then spent 5 days climbing various grade 3 winter climbs (Mark showing unbelievable patience at my attempt to lead pitches)
Since then, i have been involved in developing new crags, and climbed numerous first ascent bolted lines here in Australia where i now live. Had a first ascent on the South face of Mount Aspiring in New Zealand,and been on a couple of Expeditions to Tibet.
Who'd have thought that a chance meeting with one of Englands most prominent climbers of the 70's and 80's would have led to the lifestyle i lead now.......
Looks like this year i will be returning home, so a new chapter will begin. Meet new climbers and build up a new collection of climbing partners.
Chris
Having spent most of the 90's backpacking around the world, mostly to S.E Asia, i travelled many times to India and Nepal. I hiked the Annapurna trail (in 12 days and damaged my achilles) Then in 1998 myself and a friend hired a guide for the then restricted Kangchenjunga bace camp trek. One night we were in the remote town of Ghunsa (about 10 days hike into the trip) and my trekking partner said "Oh god, there's Alan Burgess". Having no idea who he was she proceeded to give me a run down on his achievements. He was guiding a group of Americans on the same timescale we were on.
So, at the last camp before heading to BC i spent a few hours chatting with him, liked what he told me about mountaineering and decided when i got back to UK i would enrol in a course.
So, a year later i decided to do some research and joined Jagged Globes Intro to Mountaineering Course up in Scotland. They pair off room mates that are similar, mine was Tom, a 24yr old from Leeds (i myself was 27 and from Manchester). We got on brilliantly from day 1, well with the exception of his rather vocal snoring during the night!
Tom asked me what grade i climbed, i told him i had never tried it, his reply "You've never rock climbed yet you are attending a mountaineering course, you must have balls of steel!" Not for the first time in my life i'v been called mad!
So, we arranged to meet a month later up in Leeds, a quick trip to the outdoor shop and i had a pair of shoes, harness, chalk bag and 8 quickdraws. Then, off to Baildon bank for some quarried grit. I 2nd'd Tom up a couple of VS's then he hands me the rope (i'd forgotten how to tie the Fig 8) there you go, climbe that one........ 10 mins later i had my first lead under my belt, 2 climbs later i'd 2nd'd an HVS cleanly.
The following winter i put a thread on UKclimbing looking for someone to climb in Scotland, Mark Stevenson replied. We met at a service station on the M6,then spent 5 days climbing various grade 3 winter climbs (Mark showing unbelievable patience at my attempt to lead pitches)
Since then, i have been involved in developing new crags, and climbed numerous first ascent bolted lines here in Australia where i now live. Had a first ascent on the South face of Mount Aspiring in New Zealand,and been on a couple of Expeditions to Tibet.
Who'd have thought that a chance meeting with one of Englands most prominent climbers of the 70's and 80's would have led to the lifestyle i lead now.......
Looks like this year i will be returning home, so a new chapter will begin. Meet new climbers and build up a new collection of climbing partners.
Chris
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: My Dad always talked about his climbing days (Alpine stuff in NZ in the 50s) and I wanted to try climbing, but growing up in London made it difficult. I do remember going to Harrisons a few times and watching the "real climbers" in some awe. When I was 16 I managed to get on one of the YHA climbing courses at Pen-Y-Pass, which was actually pretty good (5 days seconding easy classics, Direct Route Milestone, Crackstone Rib, Christmas Curry, Hope, etc). I wonder, are those courses still going? The instructors were Caradoc "Crag" Jones and a bloke called "Doc Rocker", both real characters. I think there is a picture of Doc in the front of Classic Rock, DA haircut, Doc Martens, Jeans, thats how I remember him. Wonder where he is now? Another 2 years living in London , but then I managed to get to Sheffield Uni. in the 80s and climbed a lot there. From 1989 a long layoff (kids , mortgage, the whole catastrophe) but now my kids are getting into climbing (a strange variant called "indoor competitions") so I am back climbing and loving it as much as ever.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Kind of grew up around the forest and wild and waste ground in East London and always loved nature. Climbed the tall trees in our gipsy encampment in folly Lane Walthamstow and climbed and ran along the roofs and walls of forbidden factories (believe its called Parkour these days)
When I was a young hippy in East London and working in a variety of manual labour jobs, myself and friends went to Epping Forest to look for Fly Agaric mushrooms (hallucinogens). Friends found these vague random red mushrooms which I swore were not Fly Agaric (they turned out to be Russula Emetica - The Sickener) which had the effect of their name.
Once on a lads weekend to Eatbourne to cop off with foreign language students we downclimbed the cliffs at Beachy Head.
Loving nature anyway and wanting to better myself - I signed up for a series of evening classes in Botany and then Ecology and Conservation. We went to a week field trip to Towyn in Wales and one day took our coach to pen y pass (didnt know where it was at the time) Saw a big pointy thing with remnants of snow on and decided to see how far I could get up Snowdon in smooth soled Doc Martins and rolled up to the knee army pants. It was Crib Goch I saw, but I thought it was Snowdon - didnt get far with wet grass and snow and Doc Martins, but there and then, age 25, I saw and fell in love with my first mountain and swore to come back and visit that magical land and climb Snowdon.
To cut a long story short I started visiting Wales in my Citroen 2CV ( a LONG drive from London in those days) and eventually climbed Snowdon and Tryfan (massive adventures into the unknown for me at the time).
I saw little figures clinging to cliffs down the Llanberis Pass but couldnt see the point to clinging static to a lump of rock when you could be walking the ridges and getting the views.
Joined a climbing course at the old Sobell wall run by North London MC and as soon as I made my first moves on that sweaty bit of concrete, chicken wire and inset rock I UNDERSTOOD WHY THEY DID IT.
Top roping on Southern Sandstone followed and then at 28 a move to Liverpool to do the Outdoor Education Degree at I.M.Marsh.
For someone who thought London to be the centre of the universe a whole new world opened up North wales and Willies Barn, Stanage Edge and Robin Hoods Cave (it took me a couple of years to actually realise that there were other gritstone edges in the Peak. Pex Hill. Langdale campsite with that weird horrible warden. My first winter, Scotland, the Alps, qualifications , jobs, travel, serial relationships with beautiful scouser and student women. At 32 I was fit, clever arrogant and having the times of my life. Never a talented climber, I always had to train hard to be mediocre, but I loved climbing and the mountains and could never imagine not doing it.
Then out of the blue - cancer - told that due to the radical operation Im gonna lose the use of my left arm. Scared shitless and in shock. Remember the night before going into hospital standing in front of a full lkength mirror looking at my fit body thinking " this is the last time Im gonna see my self like this - ah well if I dont like the outcome I can always top myself - that was my getout clause.
A couple of days after getting out of hospital I drove to Lawrencefield with my then girlfriend and another supportive female friend and did some routes on the Gingerbread slab. I COULD STILL CLIMB.
Despite a f*cked arm Ive gone on to do my Mountain Instructor Award and International Mountain Leader, made friends, climbed, mountaineered and expeditioned all over the world and even managed to make a modest living from it.
I still have to train really hard to be a mediocre climber, but when I climb, with good friends, in the right place, I know that I am alive and I find a real peace and contentment.
Im in the process of moving to North Wales (my spiritual home?) full time now with my beautiful partner, dog and 2 cats.
Climbng and the mountains have been good to me, Ive met some beautiful people and life long friends. I cannot imagine not being close to the hills. When I am too old to climb, I will write, paint and photograph the mountains and make art from the rocks, wood and rusty metal I find there.
The climbing life is good.
When I was a young hippy in East London and working in a variety of manual labour jobs, myself and friends went to Epping Forest to look for Fly Agaric mushrooms (hallucinogens). Friends found these vague random red mushrooms which I swore were not Fly Agaric (they turned out to be Russula Emetica - The Sickener) which had the effect of their name.
Once on a lads weekend to Eatbourne to cop off with foreign language students we downclimbed the cliffs at Beachy Head.
Loving nature anyway and wanting to better myself - I signed up for a series of evening classes in Botany and then Ecology and Conservation. We went to a week field trip to Towyn in Wales and one day took our coach to pen y pass (didnt know where it was at the time) Saw a big pointy thing with remnants of snow on and decided to see how far I could get up Snowdon in smooth soled Doc Martins and rolled up to the knee army pants. It was Crib Goch I saw, but I thought it was Snowdon - didnt get far with wet grass and snow and Doc Martins, but there and then, age 25, I saw and fell in love with my first mountain and swore to come back and visit that magical land and climb Snowdon.
To cut a long story short I started visiting Wales in my Citroen 2CV ( a LONG drive from London in those days) and eventually climbed Snowdon and Tryfan (massive adventures into the unknown for me at the time).
I saw little figures clinging to cliffs down the Llanberis Pass but couldnt see the point to clinging static to a lump of rock when you could be walking the ridges and getting the views.
Joined a climbing course at the old Sobell wall run by North London MC and as soon as I made my first moves on that sweaty bit of concrete, chicken wire and inset rock I UNDERSTOOD WHY THEY DID IT.
Top roping on Southern Sandstone followed and then at 28 a move to Liverpool to do the Outdoor Education Degree at I.M.Marsh.
For someone who thought London to be the centre of the universe a whole new world opened up North wales and Willies Barn, Stanage Edge and Robin Hoods Cave (it took me a couple of years to actually realise that there were other gritstone edges in the Peak. Pex Hill. Langdale campsite with that weird horrible warden. My first winter, Scotland, the Alps, qualifications , jobs, travel, serial relationships with beautiful scouser and student women. At 32 I was fit, clever arrogant and having the times of my life. Never a talented climber, I always had to train hard to be mediocre, but I loved climbing and the mountains and could never imagine not doing it.
Then out of the blue - cancer - told that due to the radical operation Im gonna lose the use of my left arm. Scared shitless and in shock. Remember the night before going into hospital standing in front of a full lkength mirror looking at my fit body thinking " this is the last time Im gonna see my self like this - ah well if I dont like the outcome I can always top myself - that was my getout clause.
A couple of days after getting out of hospital I drove to Lawrencefield with my then girlfriend and another supportive female friend and did some routes on the Gingerbread slab. I COULD STILL CLIMB.
Despite a f*cked arm Ive gone on to do my Mountain Instructor Award and International Mountain Leader, made friends, climbed, mountaineered and expeditioned all over the world and even managed to make a modest living from it.
I still have to train really hard to be a mediocre climber, but when I climb, with good friends, in the right place, I know that I am alive and I find a real peace and contentment.
Im in the process of moving to North Wales (my spiritual home?) full time now with my beautiful partner, dog and 2 cats.
Climbng and the mountains have been good to me, Ive met some beautiful people and life long friends. I cannot imagine not being close to the hills. When I am too old to climb, I will write, paint and photograph the mountains and make art from the rocks, wood and rusty metal I find there.
The climbing life is good.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Moved to Leeds in 1968, and started orienteering with a group of other kids under the instruction of a geography teacher called Jim Webb. Used to go out to competitions on Sundays in forests around North Yorkshire. This led to a love of the outdoors, which unfortunately wasn't shared by the rest of the family. I had the opportunity to go on an outward bound week with the school which involved a couple of days climbing (top roping) at Almscliff and Brimham. I knew this was it. There was little chance of continuing these activities at school so I looked around for an alternative, I joined the Leeds Mountaineering club, much to the horror of my parents. At one of the meetings, I borrowed a few quid from my brother and bought two second hand ropes, five Krabs and a couple of slings (£8 the lot). In between the weekend meets, that were far too infrequent for me, I would bike to Almscliff or Caley usually on my own taking this pile of gear with me in case I would meet others there. Usually, I was left soloing the easier climbs in complete solitude, and would think nothing of spending 9-10 hours at the crag.
Pete
Pete
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
In about 1968 I started catching the bus out to Fox House and watched climbers at Burbage South and Lawrencefield. Asked questions, fantasised about doing the same. Got everything explained, and occaisionally was offered the end of the rope, so learned to tie a bowline. Didn't need any equipment, just my Green Flash plimsolls. (Which were also the height of fashion, they never left my feet!)
Got books out of the library, Rebuffats Snow and Ice and Rock, Blackshaw, but one about Yosemite was the catalyst, I figured out all the gear required and started aiding up the side of my house with six inch nails hammered in the mortar and hanging off home made etriers.
Then a mate from school went halves with me for a nylon hawser laid rope. We made chocks in metalwork class at school, casting aluminium and drilling holes for slings. We also drilled the threads out of nuts, and got steel oval krabs from Wakefield's Army & Navy, on The Moor in Sheffield. Harnesses were a long way off.
We figured out leading and protection watching others at Burbage, and we started leading. I think the first lead was a gully just to the left of the Cioch block, then a climb called Giant's Staircase (?) in one of the quarries.
Last year my original fantasy was realised when I found myself aiding up the Nose on El Cap.
In about 1968 I started catching the bus out to Fox House and watched climbers at Burbage South and Lawrencefield. Asked questions, fantasised about doing the same. Got everything explained, and occaisionally was offered the end of the rope, so learned to tie a bowline. Didn't need any equipment, just my Green Flash plimsolls. (Which were also the height of fashion, they never left my feet!)
Got books out of the library, Rebuffats Snow and Ice and Rock, Blackshaw, but one about Yosemite was the catalyst, I figured out all the gear required and started aiding up the side of my house with six inch nails hammered in the mortar and hanging off home made etriers.
Then a mate from school went halves with me for a nylon hawser laid rope. We made chocks in metalwork class at school, casting aluminium and drilling holes for slings. We also drilled the threads out of nuts, and got steel oval krabs from Wakefield's Army & Navy, on The Moor in Sheffield. Harnesses were a long way off.
We figured out leading and protection watching others at Burbage, and we started leading. I think the first lead was a gully just to the left of the Cioch block, then a climb called Giant's Staircase (?) in one of the quarries.
Last year my original fantasy was realised when I found myself aiding up the Nose on El Cap.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I had a slightly schizophrenic childhood, going to school in leafy Hertfordshire but spending all my holidays in Connemara (west of Ireland) where my parents were renovating a stone cottage in a very remote spot by the Atlantic. I was left mostly by myself, as my sisters were already at university. There were little crags and boulders all around the cottage, so climbing was an obvious way to pass the time. That area also has some great 2000'- 2500' hills (Mweelrea, The Twelve Bens, others); trackless in those days. I hiked a lot of them with my dad from six years old onward. By eight I'd more or less decided I was a 'climber'. I got a subscription to 'Climber and Rambler' and read all the Bonington books and so on. From twelve I went to a grim boarding school whose only redeeming feature was a keen climber on the staff. He ran trips up to Derbyshire and to the Wye Valley. I did my first roped climbs at Froggatt when I was thirteen. As I had already read Joe Brown's autobiography, I brattishly identified Valkyrie, Browns Eliminate and the other famous JB routes to everyone in the group. The same teacher (Danny Wild - I am indebted to him) also organised trips to the Alps, so by the time I went to university I'd already been out there twice. After I graduated I went to climb in the Himalayas with one other university friend and by chance discovered that Danny had moved to Kathmandu. We drank chang with him out at the Bodnath stupa before going into the hills; one of those archetypal 'hey, I'm an adult now' moments.
I have been keeping a diary of sorts since I started climbing and summarised a lot of it here: http://www.toby.fk.dial.pipex.com/climb_3.htm ... almost certainly more than anyone may care to know.
I had a slightly schizophrenic childhood, going to school in leafy Hertfordshire but spending all my holidays in Connemara (west of Ireland) where my parents were renovating a stone cottage in a very remote spot by the Atlantic. I was left mostly by myself, as my sisters were already at university. There were little crags and boulders all around the cottage, so climbing was an obvious way to pass the time. That area also has some great 2000'- 2500' hills (Mweelrea, The Twelve Bens, others); trackless in those days. I hiked a lot of them with my dad from six years old onward. By eight I'd more or less decided I was a 'climber'. I got a subscription to 'Climber and Rambler' and read all the Bonington books and so on. From twelve I went to a grim boarding school whose only redeeming feature was a keen climber on the staff. He ran trips up to Derbyshire and to the Wye Valley. I did my first roped climbs at Froggatt when I was thirteen. As I had already read Joe Brown's autobiography, I brattishly identified Valkyrie, Browns Eliminate and the other famous JB routes to everyone in the group. The same teacher (Danny Wild - I am indebted to him) also organised trips to the Alps, so by the time I went to university I'd already been out there twice. After I graduated I went to climb in the Himalayas with one other university friend and by chance discovered that Danny had moved to Kathmandu. We drank chang with him out at the Bodnath stupa before going into the hills; one of those archetypal 'hey, I'm an adult now' moments.
I have been keeping a diary of sorts since I started climbing and summarised a lot of it here: http://www.toby.fk.dial.pipex.com/climb_3.htm ... almost certainly more than anyone may care to know.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
My first proper climbing on rock would probably be playing at Bell Hagg in a pair of old trainers and beer towel. Soon progressed into snapping washing lines and soloing in the Peak, made sure I could reverse each move I did. Then a couple years later when I was 18 met some climbers in the pub I was working in who took me out climbing and made sure I didn’t end my life prematurely.
Was really lucky, but they did make me carry all the gear and rope most of the time.
Ended up going away to Wales & Scotland then to the Alps and many other places which was a great learning curve, which I have many fond memories of.
each year is a new chapter, new places and climbs, new friend made and to date no bones broken.
My first proper climbing on rock would probably be playing at Bell Hagg in a pair of old trainers and beer towel. Soon progressed into snapping washing lines and soloing in the Peak, made sure I could reverse each move I did. Then a couple years later when I was 18 met some climbers in the pub I was working in who took me out climbing and made sure I didn’t end my life prematurely.
Was really lucky, but they did make me carry all the gear and rope most of the time.
Ended up going away to Wales & Scotland then to the Alps and many other places which was a great learning curve, which I have many fond memories of.
each year is a new chapter, new places and climbs, new friend made and to date no bones broken.
In reply to Al Evans: Ok, I'll elaborate, Everest was climbed, it inspired me and my mate, the slag hills round Sheffield were dead impressive in those days, in Tinsley Park Woods, so we went out with the apocryphal mums clothes line and set off to climb the biggest and most impressive. We did it by a gully, and when we got to the top were suprised to find a knife edge ridge, which we duley traversed.
It was 7 years later that I did my first proper rock climb, Spiral Stairs.
It was 7 years later that I did my first proper rock climb, Spiral Stairs.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Like so many my first taste was with the Scouts some 40yrs ago at the Wainstones, N Yorks.
Still climbing though I find a curve of my grades shows a noticable Gaussian distribution.
Like so many my first taste was with the Scouts some 40yrs ago at the Wainstones, N Yorks.
Still climbing though I find a curve of my grades shows a noticable Gaussian distribution.
In reply to Al Evans:
You went out climbing with your mate when you were 5 ?
> (In reply to Al Evans) Ok, I'll elaborate, Everest was climbed, it inspired me and my mate, the slag hills round Sheffield were dead impressive in those days, in Tinsley Park Woods, so we went out with the apocryphal mums clothes line and set off to climb the biggest and most impressive.
You went out climbing with your mate when you were 5 ?
I was a strange one, because I've always loved mountains, but wanted to be there on my own. Had a horrible time at school and scouts, and went to hills to get away from that. Hated all group activities except the only one I was any good at (rugby). Climbing, unlike walking, had to involve other people, and I didn't want other people. Not, at least, the other people I met at school and scouts.
So till I was about 33 I'd hardly ever climbed on a rope; I was a Munro bagger + crazy soloer. It was only when I moved to Scotland and found some partners that I started climbing properly.
NB some would say I still haven't started climbing properly
Looking back, I wish I'd been less obstinate about group activities. If I'd tried joining a climbing group, I might have discovered a bit earlier that not everybody around me when I was a teenager was a complete bastard. (Or maybe not.) And then I'd have had another 20 years' climbing in my life (from 13 to 33), which would have been good.
So till I was about 33 I'd hardly ever climbed on a rope; I was a Munro bagger + crazy soloer. It was only when I moved to Scotland and found some partners that I started climbing properly.
NB some would say I still haven't started climbing properly
Looking back, I wish I'd been less obstinate about group activities. If I'd tried joining a climbing group, I might have discovered a bit earlier that not everybody around me when I was a teenager was a complete bastard. (Or maybe not.) And then I'd have had another 20 years' climbing in my life (from 13 to 33), which would have been good.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Nowt special about how, and I suppose the why isn't really that interestesting either
I started climbing because the object of my lust was a climber.
Long story short, got myself on a course at an indoor wall, and it got me what I was after (nudge nudge wink wink) and I've been climbing for nearly 2 years. He hasn't been in the last 6 months, whereas I now climb twice a week indoors and outdoors whenever I possibly can.
Nowt special about how, and I suppose the why isn't really that interestesting either
I started climbing because the object of my lust was a climber.
Long story short, got myself on a course at an indoor wall, and it got me what I was after (nudge nudge wink wink) and I've been climbing for nearly 2 years. He hasn't been in the last 6 months, whereas I now climb twice a week indoors and outdoors whenever I possibly can.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I spent most of my childhood trying to get out of sports, as I wasn't really built for team games and preferred to have my head in a book. Once at school when I was about 14, they took us to a climbing wall. It was a very basic outdoor wall (brick with a few ledges set in) and we were put into pairs and told to climb it. Unsurprisingly I chickened out halfway up.
10 years later and fully entrenched in my couch potato existence (I used to cycle but that was about it), I was feeling pretty bored with my life which mainly revolved around drinking, shopping, townie stuff. I wanted to do something but I wasn't sure what. I was unfit. I'd joined a gym but didn't really get on with it. And... in the back of my mind... there was always this idea bugging me that I had chickened out on that climbing wall. I don't think I've ever bottled on anything else before and it still bothered me. I did a google and found that there was a local wall only 10 min from where I lived - High Sports. I signed up for their beginner's course and went along, not knowing what to expect.
The wall was completely different from the one I'd climbed on as a child. For one thing it wasn't a brick wall! And for another... there were all these people around just doing their thing. I got taught properly this time - Martin explained all the safety stuff and taught us how to belay. It was a moment of revelation. I couldn't even go to the next couple of classes for a while as I was away, but I went back almost every night to the wall and bouldered around - I loved it. Once I started hanging out there, people started asking me if I wanted to climb with them. I was really amazed by how sociable people were, how friendly.
I started talking about it at work and it turned out that quite a few guys at work climbed. They offered to climb with them and I did. One guy who worked round the corner from me ended up becoming my climbing partner. He was really patient and took me to try my first outdoor climb. We got a bit of a social group going with people from work and it was really good fun. It changed my whole life really - I'd been a real couch potato but once I'd tried climbing, I got the impetus to try a whole load of other sports, and it was the excuse to make friends with a whole load of new people.
My climbing partner from back in the beginning is now my bloke. My main climbing buddy is one of my best friends. I've met some brilliant people and I expect to meet many more. I still go to High Sports and we're building a wall in our back garden. I've had challenges along the way - injuries and balancing it with commuting into town - but it has really changed my life. We now take our young next door neighbour and nephew climbing, and they seem to love it as much as we do.
I spent most of my childhood trying to get out of sports, as I wasn't really built for team games and preferred to have my head in a book. Once at school when I was about 14, they took us to a climbing wall. It was a very basic outdoor wall (brick with a few ledges set in) and we were put into pairs and told to climb it. Unsurprisingly I chickened out halfway up.
10 years later and fully entrenched in my couch potato existence (I used to cycle but that was about it), I was feeling pretty bored with my life which mainly revolved around drinking, shopping, townie stuff. I wanted to do something but I wasn't sure what. I was unfit. I'd joined a gym but didn't really get on with it. And... in the back of my mind... there was always this idea bugging me that I had chickened out on that climbing wall. I don't think I've ever bottled on anything else before and it still bothered me. I did a google and found that there was a local wall only 10 min from where I lived - High Sports. I signed up for their beginner's course and went along, not knowing what to expect.
The wall was completely different from the one I'd climbed on as a child. For one thing it wasn't a brick wall! And for another... there were all these people around just doing their thing. I got taught properly this time - Martin explained all the safety stuff and taught us how to belay. It was a moment of revelation. I couldn't even go to the next couple of classes for a while as I was away, but I went back almost every night to the wall and bouldered around - I loved it. Once I started hanging out there, people started asking me if I wanted to climb with them. I was really amazed by how sociable people were, how friendly.
I started talking about it at work and it turned out that quite a few guys at work climbed. They offered to climb with them and I did. One guy who worked round the corner from me ended up becoming my climbing partner. He was really patient and took me to try my first outdoor climb. We got a bit of a social group going with people from work and it was really good fun. It changed my whole life really - I'd been a real couch potato but once I'd tried climbing, I got the impetus to try a whole load of other sports, and it was the excuse to make friends with a whole load of new people.
My climbing partner from back in the beginning is now my bloke. My main climbing buddy is one of my best friends. I've met some brilliant people and I expect to meet many more. I still go to High Sports and we're building a wall in our back garden. I've had challenges along the way - injuries and balancing it with commuting into town - but it has really changed my life. We now take our young next door neighbour and nephew climbing, and they seem to love it as much as we do.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I was about 6 years old, my family used to spend most weekends at the beach, at polzeath. I would often be found by my frantic mother, mucking around in the sea. She would berate me about running off. I would get banned from leaving the borders of the wind breaks.
In my 'smart alec' nature, I would climb the cliffs that we would be camped against, and sit on the ledges feeling smug, waiting for mum to think I had absconded again.
This turned into a regular thing and over the weekends I would start climbing further, to new ledges, taking specific trainers that suited the activity.
This developed over time to a natural urge to climb anything that took my attention, including one of my favorite games, getting from the front door into the attic without touching the floor. I still have to fight this urge when I move, as I am now a grown up, apparently.
I was about 6 years old, my family used to spend most weekends at the beach, at polzeath. I would often be found by my frantic mother, mucking around in the sea. She would berate me about running off. I would get banned from leaving the borders of the wind breaks.
In my 'smart alec' nature, I would climb the cliffs that we would be camped against, and sit on the ledges feeling smug, waiting for mum to think I had absconded again.
This turned into a regular thing and over the weekends I would start climbing further, to new ledges, taking specific trainers that suited the activity.
This developed over time to a natural urge to climb anything that took my attention, including one of my favorite games, getting from the front door into the attic without touching the floor. I still have to fight this urge when I move, as I am now a grown up, apparently.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
It started for me when I was 26. That'd be 20 years ago now, 1987. I was young, idealistic, hated Thatcherism, considered the Labour opposition of the time weak and useless ... dabbled with various far-left groups and couldn't stand them, finally got in with the CPGB (Communist Party of Great Britain) and joined them. The CPGB at that time were like the Labour Party but with brains ... it was suddenly no surprise that the Labour Party was so useless, the intelligent left were in the CPGB.
The CPGB in Leeds was a right mix. But there was a big swathe of brilliant people, a decade or so older than I. One of them was a guy called Bill Innes, a Scot who'd grown up (as I remember) in a tough part of Glasgow, become an merchant seaman, an engineer — I can't remember what had brought him down to Leeds, but when I met him in the early 80s he was District Secretary of the Yorkshire Area CPGB. So, I got to know Bill, and we got to be friends, and one day he took me climbing.
I'm not good at getting memories straight. They jostle in my head, all unruly ... I can't remember where we first climbed. I remember a day at Almscliff, Cup and Saucer. I remember going to Caley and me nipping up something and then Bill looking in his book and telling me I'd just soloed a V Diff... though maybe memory tricks me, maybe it was a Diff. I remember going to Hetchell and Bill spotting a Very Famous Climber and saying suitably worshipful things to the VFC... who I've since figured out was Dave Musgrove. But best of all, I remember going to Eastby.
Bill did all the leading, and on the day at Eastby he must've been feeling brave because he led an HVS. (No idea which one). So I set off seconding this HVS, got a few feet up, fell off. Struggled on the move again... fell off again. This was a bit painful, because we only had one harness between us, Bill's harness, and he was wearing it that time and I just had the rope tied round my middle. So I tried again... fell off again. I fell off six times I think, and then finally I did the move and got up onto a ledge. There were some other guys climbing there, and they all cheered, which made me both very embarrassed and very happy. I got up the rest of it without problems, and was very chuffed with myself.
And I think that was the last time I climbed with Bill. I loved it... I loved it so much ... but ... personal stuff.
And I didn't know any other climbers. Why it never struck me to look in climbing mags for clubs, I don't know. I don't think I knew clubs existed.
Time passed. I got married, had my son in 1993, my daughter in 96 and that was it in terms of personal space for a few years. Then when my son was six I heard from a friend about a climbing day for kids at a place I'd never heard of called Leeds Wall. Booked my lad onto it... then the great day arrived and he was ill. But I got my mate to pick me up a leaflet from teh wall, and pretty soon I had him booked on an introductory session for kids. So my lad started climbing, and each week I watched him, my fingers itching itching itching to be the one climbing, and hoping that one of teh instructors... who were a lovely bunch of blokes... would say 'do you want to have a go?'... but they didn't. I was too shy to ask. Then my lad went on a Lizards outdoor day at Brimham, and hosanna heysanna sanna sanna ho... the instructor asked if any of us parents wanted a go. Oh yes!!!! So I borrowed the instructor's harness and top roped that really slopey thing round the back of cubic block. I lent back at the top and the velcro went crackle crackle and my heart thumped like crazy because I thought it was coming undone, but of course it was doubled back ...
Then I started climbing at teh wall with one of the other parents, who taught me to belay all wrong, but one of the lovely instructors noticed and taught me right... and then I went on a beginner's course, and learnt the basics. Then I started going down the wall every opportunity I could, and that way I got to know heaps of climbers, and picked up partners, and discovered Rocktalk...
It started for me when I was 26. That'd be 20 years ago now, 1987. I was young, idealistic, hated Thatcherism, considered the Labour opposition of the time weak and useless ... dabbled with various far-left groups and couldn't stand them, finally got in with the CPGB (Communist Party of Great Britain) and joined them. The CPGB at that time were like the Labour Party but with brains ... it was suddenly no surprise that the Labour Party was so useless, the intelligent left were in the CPGB.
The CPGB in Leeds was a right mix. But there was a big swathe of brilliant people, a decade or so older than I. One of them was a guy called Bill Innes, a Scot who'd grown up (as I remember) in a tough part of Glasgow, become an merchant seaman, an engineer — I can't remember what had brought him down to Leeds, but when I met him in the early 80s he was District Secretary of the Yorkshire Area CPGB. So, I got to know Bill, and we got to be friends, and one day he took me climbing.
I'm not good at getting memories straight. They jostle in my head, all unruly ... I can't remember where we first climbed. I remember a day at Almscliff, Cup and Saucer. I remember going to Caley and me nipping up something and then Bill looking in his book and telling me I'd just soloed a V Diff... though maybe memory tricks me, maybe it was a Diff. I remember going to Hetchell and Bill spotting a Very Famous Climber and saying suitably worshipful things to the VFC... who I've since figured out was Dave Musgrove. But best of all, I remember going to Eastby.
Bill did all the leading, and on the day at Eastby he must've been feeling brave because he led an HVS. (No idea which one). So I set off seconding this HVS, got a few feet up, fell off. Struggled on the move again... fell off again. This was a bit painful, because we only had one harness between us, Bill's harness, and he was wearing it that time and I just had the rope tied round my middle. So I tried again... fell off again. I fell off six times I think, and then finally I did the move and got up onto a ledge. There were some other guys climbing there, and they all cheered, which made me both very embarrassed and very happy. I got up the rest of it without problems, and was very chuffed with myself.
And I think that was the last time I climbed with Bill. I loved it... I loved it so much ... but ... personal stuff.
And I didn't know any other climbers. Why it never struck me to look in climbing mags for clubs, I don't know. I don't think I knew clubs existed.
Time passed. I got married, had my son in 1993, my daughter in 96 and that was it in terms of personal space for a few years. Then when my son was six I heard from a friend about a climbing day for kids at a place I'd never heard of called Leeds Wall. Booked my lad onto it... then the great day arrived and he was ill. But I got my mate to pick me up a leaflet from teh wall, and pretty soon I had him booked on an introductory session for kids. So my lad started climbing, and each week I watched him, my fingers itching itching itching to be the one climbing, and hoping that one of teh instructors... who were a lovely bunch of blokes... would say 'do you want to have a go?'... but they didn't. I was too shy to ask. Then my lad went on a Lizards outdoor day at Brimham, and hosanna heysanna sanna sanna ho... the instructor asked if any of us parents wanted a go. Oh yes!!!! So I borrowed the instructor's harness and top roped that really slopey thing round the back of cubic block. I lent back at the top and the velcro went crackle crackle and my heart thumped like crazy because I thought it was coming undone, but of course it was doubled back ...
Then I started climbing at teh wall with one of the other parents, who taught me to belay all wrong, but one of the lovely instructors noticed and taught me right... and then I went on a beginner's course, and learnt the basics. Then I started going down the wall every opportunity I could, and that way I got to know heaps of climbers, and picked up partners, and discovered Rocktalk...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I was brought up loving the outdoors and the hills and scrambling around on the North Devon Coast. At the age of 10 I'd sneak off to the beach to 'walk the dog' and see if I could climb up the boulders in my trainers or wellies. By the time I was 16 I was doing 20 mile solo routes on Dartmoor and was beginning to outgrow it, so tagged along with a group of friends on a trip to Skye. After 6 days there I'd realised I I needed to climb and scramble to have more fun long days in the hills. The next 10 years were spent working my arse off trying to work out what I wanted to do with my life, struggling with injuries and fitness, ending up clinically depressed and eventually getting unfairly dismissed from my job. This kicked me up the arse and I realised how long I'd wasted and got my self down to a wall and learned ropework. I practiced indoors for 8 months or so then moved back to the hills for work, met people from here, and went climbing. For someone who only wanted to climb in order to do long scrambling routes, I am now somewhat bemused as to what it is that has captured me about trying to get myself up a 40' route just to walk round and to it again...
I was brought up loving the outdoors and the hills and scrambling around on the North Devon Coast. At the age of 10 I'd sneak off to the beach to 'walk the dog' and see if I could climb up the boulders in my trainers or wellies. By the time I was 16 I was doing 20 mile solo routes on Dartmoor and was beginning to outgrow it, so tagged along with a group of friends on a trip to Skye. After 6 days there I'd realised I I needed to climb and scramble to have more fun long days in the hills. The next 10 years were spent working my arse off trying to work out what I wanted to do with my life, struggling with injuries and fitness, ending up clinically depressed and eventually getting unfairly dismissed from my job. This kicked me up the arse and I realised how long I'd wasted and got my self down to a wall and learned ropework. I practiced indoors for 8 months or so then moved back to the hills for work, met people from here, and went climbing. For someone who only wanted to climb in order to do long scrambling routes, I am now somewhat bemused as to what it is that has captured me about trying to get myself up a 40' route just to walk round and to it again...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
(random aside as I've already contributed, but just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying this thread)
(random aside as I've already contributed, but just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying this thread)
In reply to CJD:
He has a lot to answer for. He took me on my first climb at Sennen in 1989. Before that I'd just been into camping and hill walking through the Venture Scouts.
> when I was 25 my friend Roger decided he needed a belay bunny and lo, onward I hurtled towards the world of climbing. I've been climbing ever since.
He has a lot to answer for. He took me on my first climb at Sennen in 1989. Before that I'd just been into camping and hill walking through the Venture Scouts.
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
Possibly the slowest ever introduction to climbing possible. From when we could walk, me and my brother obssessed over the idea of climbing, and would frequently scare ourselves, soloing (and falling off) "routes" while walking with the folks in the Lakes. Our most prized possession was the Fyffe and Peters Mountaincraft manual which we could recite, and also gained physce from reading Dennis Grays' "Mountain Lover" and Climber. Next stage was a gift of "Scrambles in the Lakes Vol 2", and being allowed to undertake expeditions up various low grade gills on our own, these frequently ended in dicey situations which we didn't reveal to our folks on our return (the top "pitch" of Cat Gill was a particular moment). From this background, it staggers me that apart from some hideous experience on a bricks and mortar wall at Scouts, I didn't tie on until I was 23, at the Newton Aycliffe wall. Again, the transistion to the outdoors was protracted in the extreme, and involved Causey Quarry + Keipier Woods (top-roping) and finally, that pivotal moment, leading a Moderate at Brassington Rocks! The rest, as they say is history. Climbing has driven travel, friendships, and the gentle progress still continues; logging my best onsight lead last weekend.
Possibly the slowest ever introduction to climbing possible. From when we could walk, me and my brother obssessed over the idea of climbing, and would frequently scare ourselves, soloing (and falling off) "routes" while walking with the folks in the Lakes. Our most prized possession was the Fyffe and Peters Mountaincraft manual which we could recite, and also gained physce from reading Dennis Grays' "Mountain Lover" and Climber. Next stage was a gift of "Scrambles in the Lakes Vol 2", and being allowed to undertake expeditions up various low grade gills on our own, these frequently ended in dicey situations which we didn't reveal to our folks on our return (the top "pitch" of Cat Gill was a particular moment). From this background, it staggers me that apart from some hideous experience on a bricks and mortar wall at Scouts, I didn't tie on until I was 23, at the Newton Aycliffe wall. Again, the transistion to the outdoors was protracted in the extreme, and involved Causey Quarry + Keipier Woods (top-roping) and finally, that pivotal moment, leading a Moderate at Brassington Rocks! The rest, as they say is history. Climbing has driven travel, friendships, and the gentle progress still continues; logging my best onsight lead last weekend.
In reply to Fredt: Yep!
In reply to gingerkate: Kate,you cannot poosbly be 46, I would have put you at late 20's.
Al
Al
In reply to Al Evans:
LOL, Al, you darling :-D
Get yourself over to my thread about climbing boots and clothes, and tell me what the latest thing was when you first started. You'll be too young to remember nailed boots I suppose??
LOL, Al, you darling :-D
Get yourself over to my thread about climbing boots and clothes, and tell me what the latest thing was when you first started. You'll be too young to remember nailed boots I suppose??
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I grew up in America where I felt the attitude to sport was 'you have to be the best ever' or don't bother. If you weren't going to be an Olympic athlete or have a shot at a pro contract you were deemed 'un-athletic'. Looking back on it I guess a lot of this sentiment stems from the amount of money behind athletic scholarships. It is fiercely competitive area. Other than the predictable ballet / gymnastics / softball, I hardly ever played sport and nothing seriously.
Until I moved to the UK, where a friend suggested that I join her on a walking trip. That lead to hill walking and then to scrambling and eventually climbing
I grew up in America where I felt the attitude to sport was 'you have to be the best ever' or don't bother. If you weren't going to be an Olympic athlete or have a shot at a pro contract you were deemed 'un-athletic'. Looking back on it I guess a lot of this sentiment stems from the amount of money behind athletic scholarships. It is fiercely competitive area. Other than the predictable ballet / gymnastics / softball, I hardly ever played sport and nothing seriously.
Until I moved to the UK, where a friend suggested that I join her on a walking trip. That lead to hill walking and then to scrambling and eventually climbing
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
The begining, with Manky Butler
It all started many years ago on a school trip to Blencathra in the Lake District.
This was organised by the one and only Manky Butler and his Outdoor Club. He would load the mini bus with wary children, beer and tabs and drive us off over the A66 to the mountain side of Blencathra and an old TB hospital.
Over the weekend he would drag us up mountains, usually equipped with what we could find at home, old washing lines, neoprene lined cagouls and balaclavas with huge bobbles on the top. If however the weather was dry he would take us Rock Climbing to Shepards Crag in Borrowdale.
He would go to great lengths to explain the ethics of climbing ie shouting “NO KNEES!”
He would also explain the that to be a good, no a great climber, you had to build a pyramid. On the bottom layer you would have a great expanse of Vdiffs, the next layer would be Mild Severes etc etc all the way to the top where you would have your all conquering Extremely Severe……. Well as you can imagine, that little plan soon got sacked off when Me and my mate Al realised we’d be about 250 by the time we’d built our pyramids!
The Outcrop set
Well obviously me and Al couldn’t keep going on school trips with Manky.
Although they were worth going just to hear the late Belinda Brainstorm rasping huge farts off whilst skinning up, and it was on these trips that the now defunct SAS was formed – Sexual Assault Squad! Although we didn’t manage to sexually assault much, not through lack of trying though.
So we had to get kitted out. That’s when Al went into E&H Adventure sports in Harrogate and discovered the legendry Outcrop set. He came to find me so that I could raid my eight pint whisky bottle of the coppers I had collected, and off we went to buy it.
The guy in the shop had his doubts about our ability to climb safely, particularly after he had explained how to set up a top rope using the short sling and two screw gates karabiners that came with it. He had explained that the sling must be secure around a tree or the like. Al stood pondering the sling, holding it up to the light, looking through it, twisting it, turning it, giving it great thought. Then he looked the guy in the eye and asked the question, whilst holding the sling out and open, “How do you get this over the top of a tree?”
Now those of you familiar with Almscliff will be aware that there are few trees on top, in fact last time I looked none.
So in order to set our first top rope up on Whisky Crack we had to find a boulder about the size of a cricket ball - and hopefully about as hard. We then kicked the boulder as hard as we could into the top of the crack and put the sling round, needless to say we recived a few concerned looks. And that was that, Al fell off and died and I bought a mat!
The begining, with Manky Butler
It all started many years ago on a school trip to Blencathra in the Lake District.
This was organised by the one and only Manky Butler and his Outdoor Club. He would load the mini bus with wary children, beer and tabs and drive us off over the A66 to the mountain side of Blencathra and an old TB hospital.
Over the weekend he would drag us up mountains, usually equipped with what we could find at home, old washing lines, neoprene lined cagouls and balaclavas with huge bobbles on the top. If however the weather was dry he would take us Rock Climbing to Shepards Crag in Borrowdale.
He would go to great lengths to explain the ethics of climbing ie shouting “NO KNEES!”
He would also explain the that to be a good, no a great climber, you had to build a pyramid. On the bottom layer you would have a great expanse of Vdiffs, the next layer would be Mild Severes etc etc all the way to the top where you would have your all conquering Extremely Severe……. Well as you can imagine, that little plan soon got sacked off when Me and my mate Al realised we’d be about 250 by the time we’d built our pyramids!
The Outcrop set
Well obviously me and Al couldn’t keep going on school trips with Manky.
Although they were worth going just to hear the late Belinda Brainstorm rasping huge farts off whilst skinning up, and it was on these trips that the now defunct SAS was formed – Sexual Assault Squad! Although we didn’t manage to sexually assault much, not through lack of trying though.
So we had to get kitted out. That’s when Al went into E&H Adventure sports in Harrogate and discovered the legendry Outcrop set. He came to find me so that I could raid my eight pint whisky bottle of the coppers I had collected, and off we went to buy it.
The guy in the shop had his doubts about our ability to climb safely, particularly after he had explained how to set up a top rope using the short sling and two screw gates karabiners that came with it. He had explained that the sling must be secure around a tree or the like. Al stood pondering the sling, holding it up to the light, looking through it, twisting it, turning it, giving it great thought. Then he looked the guy in the eye and asked the question, whilst holding the sling out and open, “How do you get this over the top of a tree?”
Now those of you familiar with Almscliff will be aware that there are few trees on top, in fact last time I looked none.
So in order to set our first top rope up on Whisky Crack we had to find a boulder about the size of a cricket ball - and hopefully about as hard. We then kicked the boulder as hard as we could into the top of the crack and put the sling round, needless to say we recived a few concerned looks. And that was that, Al fell off and died and I bought a mat!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I went to a party, woke up with a really bad hangover to be surrounded by some really enthusiastic people who asked if I wanted to go climbing with them. Assuming it was just a quick trip to the local indoor wall I agreed only to realise we were heading to the Peak district once we were in the car. No escape possible. Had a really enjoyable day, ended up properly scraped from resting on a thigh jam in an offwidth crack but I've been hooked ever since.
I went to a party, woke up with a really bad hangover to be surrounded by some really enthusiastic people who asked if I wanted to go climbing with them. Assuming it was just a quick trip to the local indoor wall I agreed only to realise we were heading to the Peak district once we were in the car. No escape possible. Had a really enjoyable day, ended up properly scraped from resting on a thigh jam in an offwidth crack but I've been hooked ever since.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
As a cure for vertigo.
I joined the mountaineering club at Stirling Uni to get out walking. On Glencoe trip joined a walk up Curved Ridge on the Buachaille and suffered an extreme attack of vertigo. Had to turn back and was horrified that I'd been such a wuss. On the bus back to Stirling somebody suggested taking up rock climbing to cure my vertigo. I didn't do anything about it for about six months and avoided anything too steep. I was then told about Pete Bilsborough's Wednesday afternoon "learn to climb" trips he organised for the Uni's Sport Department and I signed up. That is how I ended up on the end of a rope at the Hawkcraig with Doug belaying / instructing on the other end.
As a cure for vertigo.
I joined the mountaineering club at Stirling Uni to get out walking. On Glencoe trip joined a walk up Curved Ridge on the Buachaille and suffered an extreme attack of vertigo. Had to turn back and was horrified that I'd been such a wuss. On the bus back to Stirling somebody suggested taking up rock climbing to cure my vertigo. I didn't do anything about it for about six months and avoided anything too steep. I was then told about Pete Bilsborough's Wednesday afternoon "learn to climb" trips he organised for the Uni's Sport Department and I signed up. That is how I ended up on the end of a rope at the Hawkcraig with Doug belaying / instructing on the other end.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
climbing has been my academic bete noir. Started at 6th form, on a top rope at Shepherds Crag. There followed a few trips to local crags like Wilton and Cadshaw and some evenings bouldering ('cept we didn't call it that - think we called it practice) at Brownstones. Then there was Altrincham Wall on a Wednesday. Except my maths class had wierd sports on a Tuesday, so I had to do maths on a wednesday, not climb. Anyway, got hauled in from of the head for not being in Maths - blah blah good student, blah blah can't understand etc. As the modern youth would have it "woteva"
Anyway passed maths, went to uni, discovered more climbing, women and beer. Never really discovered geography. Went to some great crags, though. Culminated in being sat on top of a lovely bit of Dales limestone instead of in a Uni exam room. Took me 20 years to graduate, but I DID go to some nice grags
climbing has been my academic bete noir. Started at 6th form, on a top rope at Shepherds Crag. There followed a few trips to local crags like Wilton and Cadshaw and some evenings bouldering ('cept we didn't call it that - think we called it practice) at Brownstones. Then there was Altrincham Wall on a Wednesday. Except my maths class had wierd sports on a Tuesday, so I had to do maths on a wednesday, not climb. Anyway, got hauled in from of the head for not being in Maths - blah blah good student, blah blah can't understand etc. As the modern youth would have it "woteva"
Anyway passed maths, went to uni, discovered more climbing, women and beer. Never really discovered geography. Went to some great crags, though. Culminated in being sat on top of a lovely bit of Dales limestone instead of in a Uni exam room. Took me 20 years to graduate, but I DID go to some nice grags
In reply to gingerkate:
My god how people thought, personaly I loved Maggie especialy when she floated BT and British Aerospace, I made enough money to go to Arapiles!
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> It started for me when I was 26. That'd be 20 years ago now, 1987. I was young, idealistic, hated Thatcherism, considered the Labour opposition of the time weak and useless ... dabbled with various far-left groups and couldn't stand them, finally got in with the CPGB (Communist Party of Great Britain) and joined them. The CPGB at that time were like the Labour Party but with brains ... it was suddenly no surprise that the Labour Party was so useless, the intelligent left were in the CPGB.
>
> It started for me when I was 26. That'd be 20 years ago now, 1987. I was young, idealistic, hated Thatcherism, considered the Labour opposition of the time weak and useless ... dabbled with various far-left groups and couldn't stand them, finally got in with the CPGB (Communist Party of Great Britain) and joined them. The CPGB at that time were like the Labour Party but with brains ... it was suddenly no surprise that the Labour Party was so useless, the intelligent left were in the CPGB.
My god how people thought, personaly I loved Maggie especialy when she floated BT and British Aerospace, I made enough money to go to Arapiles!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I grew up in a small mining town in South Africa in just about the flattest place that you could imagine. Until the age of about 10, the only mountains that I'd ever seen were on TV and in Books. I used to climb the outside of our house by jamming my fingers and toes in between the mortar in the brickwork, much to my mum's horror.
When my family moved back to England in 1990, again we settled in the flattest part of the country, Cambridge!! I started Parkside community college in 1991 and at the end of the first year, we went on a school trip to Derbyshire and there I got my first taste of climbing. It was probably only about 10m high and about a mod, but I'll never forget the feeling of reaching the top.
After that trip, I knew that I loved being in the hills and mountains and wanted to get more of it. I started doing the Duke of Edinburgh award because I saw it a the best way of getting out of Cambridge and into the hills. I never managed to complete the award, but I did complete the expedition part for the bronze silver and gold award.
When I was about 17, a friend took a few of us to the local chalkpits and showed us how to abseil. Some of the risks we took over the next few weeks were ridiculous, but somehow we managed to survive. All the gear we had was 2 screwgates, a fig 8, a sling and a 25m static rope. We didn't know anything about knots, so didn't dare un-tie the fig 8 knot and we abseiled off an old fence post that has since fallen over. We also abseiled some of the local multi-storey car parks in Cambridge, not something I’d recommend doing these days.
Eventually we all bought ourselves a harness, sling, fig 8 and a couple of screwgates, so that we didn't have to keep swapping over gear, but we were still using the same rope with the same knot!! After a while it dawned on us that maybe we could do more stuff with our harnesses, like climbing. We went down to the local wall (Kelsey Kerridge, possibly the worst indoor wall in the country) and messed around trying to get up it. We even managed to do some top-roping, still using our trusty static rope. I was hooked on the whole climbing thing and started buying gear and magazines and anything climbing related. My friends weren't quite so keen, so eventually stopped going to the wall as much and as I didn't have anyone to go with, so did I.
I joined the RAF at 19 and whilst on my training course at RAF Cosford near Telford, I managed to find someone into climbing and we started going to the Rockface in Birmingham every Wednesday. I eventually got posted to RAF Kinloss, which I chose because I wanted to be close to the mountains and I heard that they had an MRT based there. Unfortunately I met a girl and climbing got put on hold and in 2 years I only managed to get out climbing about 3 times and never got round to leading anything.
In 2001, one of my friends that I originally started abseiling with, got in touch and asked if I fancied going to the Alps in the following summer to climb Mont Blanc. Of course I said yes immediately, and then set about training for the trip. I started reading and practicing rope techniques, crevasse rescue etc… Part of the training meant getting out and doing some climbing. I'd owned all the gear for about 3 or 4 years and had a pretty complete rack, but still hadn't lead a route. A trip to Stanage was planned and we set off in the direction of Sheffield. I had read about Stanage in a copy of climber magazine and thought it looked like a good place to head to.
We didn't have a guidebook and in fact weren't entirely sure of where Stanage was. We had to stop at McDonalds in Chesterfield and phone my mum to get her to check the interweb for directions. She told us to just head to Hathersage and it was somewhere near there. We were nearly at Hathersage when we spotted a crag and assumed it must be Stanage, so parked up and went for a look. We decided that pretty much everything looked too difficult for us so settled for what looked like the lowest and safest. I lead my first route!! Hells Bells HS, turned out that we were actually at Millstone! We went to Hathersage later in the day and I bought my first guidebook and put my first tick in it. Haven't looked back since.
I've met some amazing people through climbing and have been to some wonderful places. The first time I laid my eyes on the Alps, I said to myself "I have to live here". Now, I'm finally living here and enjoying the mountains everyday.
I grew up in a small mining town in South Africa in just about the flattest place that you could imagine. Until the age of about 10, the only mountains that I'd ever seen were on TV and in Books. I used to climb the outside of our house by jamming my fingers and toes in between the mortar in the brickwork, much to my mum's horror.
When my family moved back to England in 1990, again we settled in the flattest part of the country, Cambridge!! I started Parkside community college in 1991 and at the end of the first year, we went on a school trip to Derbyshire and there I got my first taste of climbing. It was probably only about 10m high and about a mod, but I'll never forget the feeling of reaching the top.
After that trip, I knew that I loved being in the hills and mountains and wanted to get more of it. I started doing the Duke of Edinburgh award because I saw it a the best way of getting out of Cambridge and into the hills. I never managed to complete the award, but I did complete the expedition part for the bronze silver and gold award.
When I was about 17, a friend took a few of us to the local chalkpits and showed us how to abseil. Some of the risks we took over the next few weeks were ridiculous, but somehow we managed to survive. All the gear we had was 2 screwgates, a fig 8, a sling and a 25m static rope. We didn't know anything about knots, so didn't dare un-tie the fig 8 knot and we abseiled off an old fence post that has since fallen over. We also abseiled some of the local multi-storey car parks in Cambridge, not something I’d recommend doing these days.
Eventually we all bought ourselves a harness, sling, fig 8 and a couple of screwgates, so that we didn't have to keep swapping over gear, but we were still using the same rope with the same knot!! After a while it dawned on us that maybe we could do more stuff with our harnesses, like climbing. We went down to the local wall (Kelsey Kerridge, possibly the worst indoor wall in the country) and messed around trying to get up it. We even managed to do some top-roping, still using our trusty static rope. I was hooked on the whole climbing thing and started buying gear and magazines and anything climbing related. My friends weren't quite so keen, so eventually stopped going to the wall as much and as I didn't have anyone to go with, so did I.
I joined the RAF at 19 and whilst on my training course at RAF Cosford near Telford, I managed to find someone into climbing and we started going to the Rockface in Birmingham every Wednesday. I eventually got posted to RAF Kinloss, which I chose because I wanted to be close to the mountains and I heard that they had an MRT based there. Unfortunately I met a girl and climbing got put on hold and in 2 years I only managed to get out climbing about 3 times and never got round to leading anything.
In 2001, one of my friends that I originally started abseiling with, got in touch and asked if I fancied going to the Alps in the following summer to climb Mont Blanc. Of course I said yes immediately, and then set about training for the trip. I started reading and practicing rope techniques, crevasse rescue etc… Part of the training meant getting out and doing some climbing. I'd owned all the gear for about 3 or 4 years and had a pretty complete rack, but still hadn't lead a route. A trip to Stanage was planned and we set off in the direction of Sheffield. I had read about Stanage in a copy of climber magazine and thought it looked like a good place to head to.
We didn't have a guidebook and in fact weren't entirely sure of where Stanage was. We had to stop at McDonalds in Chesterfield and phone my mum to get her to check the interweb for directions. She told us to just head to Hathersage and it was somewhere near there. We were nearly at Hathersage when we spotted a crag and assumed it must be Stanage, so parked up and went for a look. We decided that pretty much everything looked too difficult for us so settled for what looked like the lowest and safest. I lead my first route!! Hells Bells HS, turned out that we were actually at Millstone! We went to Hathersage later in the day and I bought my first guidebook and put my first tick in it. Haven't looked back since.
I've met some amazing people through climbing and have been to some wonderful places. The first time I laid my eyes on the Alps, I said to myself "I have to live here". Now, I'm finally living here and enjoying the mountains everyday.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I got into climbing through the friendly folk in the Cambridge Uni Mountaineering Club ( http://www.srcf.ucam.org/cumc/ ) I was really into mountain biking & karate at the time, but I tried to take advantage of the beginner's meets that all the Uni sports clubs put on at the start of each year.
My first climbing experience was a chilly 6am start in Cambridge, followed by a 3 or 4 hr coach ride up to the Peak district. It rained of course, and I think we probably top-roped some Stanage Diffs in the wet. I don't remember being very impressed! I did visit the local climbing wall a few times (bits of flint embedded in polished concrete, and blood in the pockets where people had cut themselves on exposed chicken wire...) but it all seemed desperately hard.
It was a whole year later before I tried another club trip up to the Peak, but this time the sun shone! The gritstone at Birchen was warm & grippy, and suddenly climbing seemed like the best thing ever Other sports soon took a back seat, and before long I was climbing indoors a couple of times a week and I'd even built a climbing wall in my garage.
I was definitely an "indoor climber" for the first few years - mostly bouldering with a bit of leading at various walls near London. I'd regularly travel for over an hour each way to get to a decent wall like The Castle or Amersham. When I did get outside to the Peak or some Southern Sandstone, I had absolutely no idea about how to jam, bridge, smear...
Ten years on and I love climbing more than ever. Packing in my Cambridge office job and moving to Sheffield was the best decision I ever made... still can't smear though!
My first climbing experience was a chilly 6am start in Cambridge, followed by a 3 or 4 hr coach ride up to the Peak district. It rained of course, and I think we probably top-roped some Stanage Diffs in the wet. I don't remember being very impressed! I did visit the local climbing wall a few times (bits of flint embedded in polished concrete, and blood in the pockets where people had cut themselves on exposed chicken wire...) but it all seemed desperately hard.
It was a whole year later before I tried another club trip up to the Peak, but this time the sun shone! The gritstone at Birchen was warm & grippy, and suddenly climbing seemed like the best thing ever Other sports soon took a back seat, and before long I was climbing indoors a couple of times a week and I'd even built a climbing wall in my garage.
I was definitely an "indoor climber" for the first few years - mostly bouldering with a bit of leading at various walls near London. I'd regularly travel for over an hour each way to get to a decent wall like The Castle or Amersham. When I did get outside to the Peak or some Southern Sandstone, I had absolutely no idea about how to jam, bridge, smear...
Ten years on and I love climbing more than ever. Packing in my Cambridge office job and moving to Sheffield was the best decision I ever made... still can't smear though!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Dad climbed (although he'd given up in the 50's). Older brother climbed. Therefore I climbed. First climbing was aged about 7 at the Doors I think. Started properly at about 15 during blackberry week half term on a course run by Sunderland Outdoor Activities Association - Bill Wayman was the instructor I think.
Still climb with most of my original climbing partners 28 years later!!
Still climb with most of my original climbing partners 28 years later!!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I used to play a lot of sports in my younger years, including many trips to the North York Moors with school doing outdoorsy things - including once climbing a small farm wall somewhere near scarborough...fast forward to being about 24, a friend of a friend was into climbing and took me long to Rock City in Hull for a bit of bouldering. That was that - a 2 hour session indoors...fast forward again to the age of 27.
I had developed osteoarthritis in the hip joint because of a congenital collagen disorder. I could't walk properly for almost two years and was in constant pain. My life was reduced to a 5 minute walk radius around my flat. I luckily met a doctor who new a surgeon newly trained in america - a specialist in my disorder. Then came major surgery, near death in the operating theatre and a two year recovery period.
The plus side - another bite at the cherry, the surgery has temporarily corrected my OA (I have perhaps another 5 years left before the pain will return!) and a live each day as your last attitude.
I then met a bloke through work who climbs at the castle, with my new found freedom and vague memories of enjoying climbing a stone wall at the age of ten. I went along.
Since then I've met around ten new mates and have a closeness that you can only get through climbing.
My plans for the future are to get as much climbing in as possible before it's too late!
I realised my goal this year of E1 after eight months of trad climbing, not bad...but I've got other goals to achieve now.
cheers viking
I used to play a lot of sports in my younger years, including many trips to the North York Moors with school doing outdoorsy things - including once climbing a small farm wall somewhere near scarborough...fast forward to being about 24, a friend of a friend was into climbing and took me long to Rock City in Hull for a bit of bouldering. That was that - a 2 hour session indoors...fast forward again to the age of 27.
I had developed osteoarthritis in the hip joint because of a congenital collagen disorder. I could't walk properly for almost two years and was in constant pain. My life was reduced to a 5 minute walk radius around my flat. I luckily met a doctor who new a surgeon newly trained in america - a specialist in my disorder. Then came major surgery, near death in the operating theatre and a two year recovery period.
The plus side - another bite at the cherry, the surgery has temporarily corrected my OA (I have perhaps another 5 years left before the pain will return!) and a live each day as your last attitude.
I then met a bloke through work who climbs at the castle, with my new found freedom and vague memories of enjoying climbing a stone wall at the age of ten. I went along.
Since then I've met around ten new mates and have a closeness that you can only get through climbing.
My plans for the future are to get as much climbing in as possible before it's too late!
I realised my goal this year of E1 after eight months of trad climbing, not bad...but I've got other goals to achieve now.
cheers viking
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Pedantic point of order Sir. You were never a Boy Scout - you were a Scout. They were renamed in 1966.
You'll have gathered that I got into climbing through Scouts too. Enjoyed reading your bit.
Pedantic point of order Sir. You were never a Boy Scout - you were a Scout. They were renamed in 1966.
You'll have gathered that I got into climbing through Scouts too. Enjoyed reading your bit.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Once upon a time, long, long ago...
I believe it was in 1982 when I had my first climb - Cadshaw Rocks with the Lancaster University climbing club. Back then I was more into hill walking and though I enjoyed myself, it didn't really bite.
Then in the summer of 1984 I'd done all my finals in the the first week they were on and went up to the lakes to stop me annoying everyone else who was still hard at work. Midweek, on a greasy day, I scared myself half to death on a scramble and thought, I must find out how these ropes work.
And for many years afterwards, hill walking became a means to an end or a wet day activity.
T.
I believe it was in 1982 when I had my first climb - Cadshaw Rocks with the Lancaster University climbing club. Back then I was more into hill walking and though I enjoyed myself, it didn't really bite.
Then in the summer of 1984 I'd done all my finals in the the first week they were on and went up to the lakes to stop me annoying everyone else who was still hard at work. Midweek, on a greasy day, I scared myself half to death on a scramble and thought, I must find out how these ropes work.
And for many years afterwards, hill walking became a means to an end or a wet day activity.
T.
Reading through this thread, it does strike me how much difference it has clearly made to a lot of people that they had what I didn't-- good scouts and school experiences instead of crap both. The scout pack at my school was unbelievably crap. No one ever did any badges or anything. No one went climbing. The big boys read pornography and bullied the small boys, e.g. me. That was all. I left when I asked the scoutmaster to do something about the people who were beating the shit out of me every week and he flatly refused. But I didn't have anywhere else to go...
I wonder how it goes for kids these days. Now everyone's so paranoid about litigation, do scouts (and guides) still get climbers started?
I wonder how it goes for kids these days. Now everyone's so paranoid about litigation, do scouts (and guides) still get climbers started?
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
Ah, but you are a fair bit younger than me. I was just old enough to see what we lost. But let's not start talking politics on Mick's thread ... I just put it in because it was part of who Bill was really, it probably won't seem relevant to many people, but it is because of how the CPGB functioned, and teh way it changed people. But Mick wants personal climbing histories not political history, only for me they happen to intersect.
Ah, but you are a fair bit younger than me. I was just old enough to see what we lost. But let's not start talking politics on Mick's thread ... I just put it in because it was part of who Bill was really, it probably won't seem relevant to many people, but it is because of how the CPGB functioned, and teh way it changed people. But Mick wants personal climbing histories not political history, only for me they happen to intersect.
In reply to gingerkate: I started out as a hillwalker, but after a while began to get bored of doing the same walks in North Wales over again. I had a friend who did a little climbing and I asked him to take me with him, but I only really started climbing regularly when I joined the Reading Mountaineering Club in (I think) 1984.
Oddly enough, the only new routes in a guidebook which my name appears against (as a second) were climbed on my very first trip away with the Reading club. We even put the first recorded routes up on a nice granite crag in Cornwall.
Oddly enough, the only new routes in a guidebook which my name appears against (as a second) were climbed on my very first trip away with the Reading club. We even put the first recorded routes up on a nice granite crag in Cornwall.
Did DofE at school. Then didn't do anything for years. Then moved to Edinburgh. Decided I'd like to do a bit of walking. Joined a Mountaineering Club and got hooked. My first experience of scrambling was Sgurr nan Gillean on Skye - oops... I was terrified.
In the club there were these people who climbed, so I thought I'd give it a go. Went to the local indoor wall, did the beginners course, and loved it. There's a Women's Climbing Group, so I joined that - some of the members are my best friends now. They took me on my first trips outdoors, and I've been outdoors with the Club as well. Kept walking too, and the climbing has helped my confidence with scrambling. Went to Spain bolt-clipping last year, and was delighted to lead my first route. I'm still fairly nervous, but I'm getting better, and now I really want to lead trad.
In the club there were these people who climbed, so I thought I'd give it a go. Went to the local indoor wall, did the beginners course, and loved it. There's a Women's Climbing Group, so I joined that - some of the members are my best friends now. They took me on my first trips outdoors, and I've been outdoors with the Club as well. Kept walking too, and the climbing has helped my confidence with scrambling. Went to Spain bolt-clipping last year, and was delighted to lead my first route. I'm still fairly nervous, but I'm getting better, and now I really want to lead trad.
In reply to John2: Can't really remember why but I'd always been keen on mountains & had pestered my parents into having family holidays in the Lakes & North Wales while still at primary school (family in N Wales made that quite easy), started hill walking at first with the Scouts, later with friends and then, aged about 16 discovered that Aylesbury had a climbing club so went along, next weekend I went to the Peak District with a couple of guys who were probably about 19 & seconded a few routes at around severe & Very severe, led my first route on Frogatt that weekend.
Pestered a school friend into joining me, we bought a little gear & then used to hitch to N Wales or the Lakes slowing becomming competent at around VS. Then went to the Alps & somehow survived.
Went to university & discovered that HVS & extremes were possible, first HVS lead on my first uni club meet (Brant Direct). Then moved to Scotland & discovered winters
Pestered a school friend into joining me, we bought a little gear & then used to hitch to N Wales or the Lakes slowing becomming competent at around VS. Then went to the Alps & somehow survived.
Went to university & discovered that HVS & extremes were possible, first HVS lead on my first uni club meet (Brant Direct). Then moved to Scotland & discovered winters
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Use to go walking in the mountains in SA from a very early age. Natural progression had me clambering on boulders, soloing easy routes, toproping a few bits with me dad and then leading stuff (mainly adventurous trad up to around E1) as soon as I had a nut and a sling or two. I didn't have a very strong upper body in my teens as all the stuff I did was not very steep, and I rarely climbed indoors (as there wasn't much of a indoor wall in Cape Town anyway).
I moved to England when I was 18 in 1996 I did a couple of summer Alpine trips, a few Scottish winter trips and a little bit of trad rock during the first few years. Too busy slacking, spending my weekends in London.
My passion for rockclimbing really took off when I discovered grit bouldering and soloing in 2002 & bought a car. I haven't looked back since.
Use to go walking in the mountains in SA from a very early age. Natural progression had me clambering on boulders, soloing easy routes, toproping a few bits with me dad and then leading stuff (mainly adventurous trad up to around E1) as soon as I had a nut and a sling or two. I didn't have a very strong upper body in my teens as all the stuff I did was not very steep, and I rarely climbed indoors (as there wasn't much of a indoor wall in Cape Town anyway).
I moved to England when I was 18 in 1996 I did a couple of summer Alpine trips, a few Scottish winter trips and a little bit of trad rock during the first few years. Too busy slacking, spending my weekends in London.
My passion for rockclimbing really took off when I discovered grit bouldering and soloing in 2002 & bought a car. I haven't looked back since.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Got into fellwalking when I was about 12 - my dad had been keen when he was younger, but didn't do much at the time and initially it was with a school group. Started doing more scrambling and realised I really ought to have a rope on me when I almost took a fall in the Lakes.
Next stage proved a bit tricky - parents weren't keen, but I eventually joined Clitheroe Mountaineering Club. Interested that you mention the Clitheroe crew, cos the club only had 2 climbers and neither could lead VS. Mind you I was hopelessly weak and they suggested I took up golf!
Didn't really start progressing until I went to uni
Got into fellwalking when I was about 12 - my dad had been keen when he was younger, but didn't do much at the time and initially it was with a school group. Started doing more scrambling and realised I really ought to have a rope on me when I almost took a fall in the Lakes.
Next stage proved a bit tricky - parents weren't keen, but I eventually joined Clitheroe Mountaineering Club. Interested that you mention the Clitheroe crew, cos the club only had 2 climbers and neither could lead VS. Mind you I was hopelessly weak and they suggested I took up golf!
Didn't really start progressing until I went to uni
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Had a friend whose uncle+aunt(Tom+Heidi Bowman)climbed they took us up the Lakes in '67,and I did my first route on Gill Crag,Dovedale.Iremember Heidi saying as we watched climbers walking up to Dove that that is where the really hard routes are.In '76 I did Extol and Dovedale Grooves with Gordon Tinning and I can fondly remember all my days out on the hill.Top sport. bob windsor
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Got into climbing from walking really. I've always loved to walk, just started off as random walking and exploring the areas where I lived really. I was a bit of a 'problem child' and was surrounded by drugs and booze when growing up and met a bloke from the 'posh' end of town who was able to get a shot of a car. We used to drive up to this farm not far from Forfar and visit my ex traveller mates and take drugs and stuff and there was an old Hill Fort (Finavon) that I went to (out my face on cocaine) and I remember the wind blowing and just feeling a right sense of freedom and beauty in the surroundings (wether this was due to the drugs of course who knows, lol!) Anyway shortly after, I grew weary of the drugs and partying and not long after got pregnant. When RB was born I used to put her in the papoose and just go for big long solitary walks in the country. My mum had met some rambler type friends and was going hillwalking with them and I joined them one day and went up Ben Vrackie. I was bloomin knackered but loved the exertion of it and the views and getting to the top. After that, we went up Ben Lawers and I decided I wanted to go to the top of Ben Nevis seen as it was the highest hill in Britain.
So off we went, me in my tatty trainers and fleece and no map (well my mum had a map but didn't know how to use it, hehe) and near the bit where you pass by the top of Gardyloo Gully, these 2blokes walked out of the mist dressed in all the mountaineering gear, rucksacks, ropes etc and wandered off in the direction of the top of Tower ridge and were swallowed up by the mist again. I remember feeling a bit awed by the sight and thinking 'god, these guys must really know what they're doing' but then didn't think much else of it but it was an image that did stick with me.
Borrowed a book from the Library and tought myself how to navigate, quit my weekend job cos I still had a young child during the week and working every weekend by this point and not much free time, and just went walking up the hills by myself every weekend munro bagging, going further and further afield.
One day, met this bloke at my mates house who was a climber and we started seeing each other for a while and he said he would take climbing when the weather was better (it was around Oct time). We broke up after a few months and I decided to just go to the local wall in Dundee and take some lessons by myself. This was in Jan and come March I was eager to climb outdoors, I wanted to climb a mountain!! Just seconded stuff at first, did my 1st ever mountain route that summer and loved it even tho I didn't lead any of it. Then did my 1st leads and spent a week in Reiff where I convinced myself that by the end of the weekend I would be leading VS no probs but discovered that I'm a total woose, hehe, and was still bumbling up V.Diffs by the end of the week. Led my first mountain route later that summer and led severe. Took up winter climbing that winter and thought it far superior to rock climbing but broke my arm snowboarding and couldn't climb anymore that winter. 2nd year carried on leading loads of severes and my first couple of HS's at the end of the summer. Had my first proper winter season (injury free) and discovered many more mountains that I'd never been to before and a desire to seek out long winter mountain days away from the honeypots (which never quite managed to materialise!). 3rd year had a spinal injury and didn't do much at all, tho I foolishly spent a week in Wales which made my back loads worse and I was unable to climb for nearly a year. Now into my 4th year and I feel that I'm starting all over again but ye canny beat it!
Got into climbing from walking really. I've always loved to walk, just started off as random walking and exploring the areas where I lived really. I was a bit of a 'problem child' and was surrounded by drugs and booze when growing up and met a bloke from the 'posh' end of town who was able to get a shot of a car. We used to drive up to this farm not far from Forfar and visit my ex traveller mates and take drugs and stuff and there was an old Hill Fort (Finavon) that I went to (out my face on cocaine) and I remember the wind blowing and just feeling a right sense of freedom and beauty in the surroundings (wether this was due to the drugs of course who knows, lol!) Anyway shortly after, I grew weary of the drugs and partying and not long after got pregnant. When RB was born I used to put her in the papoose and just go for big long solitary walks in the country. My mum had met some rambler type friends and was going hillwalking with them and I joined them one day and went up Ben Vrackie. I was bloomin knackered but loved the exertion of it and the views and getting to the top. After that, we went up Ben Lawers and I decided I wanted to go to the top of Ben Nevis seen as it was the highest hill in Britain.
So off we went, me in my tatty trainers and fleece and no map (well my mum had a map but didn't know how to use it, hehe) and near the bit where you pass by the top of Gardyloo Gully, these 2blokes walked out of the mist dressed in all the mountaineering gear, rucksacks, ropes etc and wandered off in the direction of the top of Tower ridge and were swallowed up by the mist again. I remember feeling a bit awed by the sight and thinking 'god, these guys must really know what they're doing' but then didn't think much else of it but it was an image that did stick with me.
Borrowed a book from the Library and tought myself how to navigate, quit my weekend job cos I still had a young child during the week and working every weekend by this point and not much free time, and just went walking up the hills by myself every weekend munro bagging, going further and further afield.
One day, met this bloke at my mates house who was a climber and we started seeing each other for a while and he said he would take climbing when the weather was better (it was around Oct time). We broke up after a few months and I decided to just go to the local wall in Dundee and take some lessons by myself. This was in Jan and come March I was eager to climb outdoors, I wanted to climb a mountain!! Just seconded stuff at first, did my 1st ever mountain route that summer and loved it even tho I didn't lead any of it. Then did my 1st leads and spent a week in Reiff where I convinced myself that by the end of the weekend I would be leading VS no probs but discovered that I'm a total woose, hehe, and was still bumbling up V.Diffs by the end of the week. Led my first mountain route later that summer and led severe. Took up winter climbing that winter and thought it far superior to rock climbing but broke my arm snowboarding and couldn't climb anymore that winter. 2nd year carried on leading loads of severes and my first couple of HS's at the end of the summer. Had my first proper winter season (injury free) and discovered many more mountains that I'd never been to before and a desire to seek out long winter mountain days away from the honeypots (which never quite managed to materialise!). 3rd year had a spinal injury and didn't do much at all, tho I foolishly spent a week in Wales which made my back loads worse and I was unable to climb for nearly a year. Now into my 4th year and I feel that I'm starting all over again but ye canny beat it!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:Mick
A brilliant, transcending thread.
As a kid, I climbed trees, walls, anything.
Sometime somewhere I stopped, something to do with something, I don't know what though.. At age 25 I started reading about it. At 43 I started doing it again. I lost so much time - but now I'm back!
Thanks
A brilliant, transcending thread.
As a kid, I climbed trees, walls, anything.
Sometime somewhere I stopped, something to do with something, I don't know what though.. At age 25 I started reading about it. At 43 I started doing it again. I lost so much time - but now I'm back!
Thanks
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
When I was 18 I joined up to an OTC at university. Part of the 'selection' weekend was to you see how you got on on their indoor climbing wall. A few years later I got the chance to go to climb on an OTC expedition to Smith Rock in Oregon.
Years later my Colour Sergeant at Sandhurst gave me his copy of 'Touching The Void'. I didn't get to read it until later because I was one of the admin disasters that always needed to spend that little extra time on ironing than others. Many trousers later in 2003, I had organised a two week trip to the Ecrins and was going about organising a snowshoeing trip to the Pyrenees the following winter.
At this belated point I started the long process of acquiring gear and clothing...
I still haven't thanked the then CSgt Matthews of the Coldstream Guards for giving me that book, and he certainly won't recognise my fat slow a$$ up any hill, but I owe him a beer!
When I was 18 I joined up to an OTC at university. Part of the 'selection' weekend was to you see how you got on on their indoor climbing wall. A few years later I got the chance to go to climb on an OTC expedition to Smith Rock in Oregon.
Years later my Colour Sergeant at Sandhurst gave me his copy of 'Touching The Void'. I didn't get to read it until later because I was one of the admin disasters that always needed to spend that little extra time on ironing than others. Many trousers later in 2003, I had organised a two week trip to the Ecrins and was going about organising a snowshoeing trip to the Pyrenees the following winter.
At this belated point I started the long process of acquiring gear and clothing...
I still haven't thanked the then CSgt Matthews of the Coldstream Guards for giving me that book, and he certainly won't recognise my fat slow a$$ up any hill, but I owe him a beer!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Was walking up Ben Nevis Nov. 2004 with a couple of friends... Got half way and it started to snow, but plodded on... Got to the top and thought to myself wouldn't it be nice to climb up Ben Nevis (at which point there was a wee blizzard)... And def. thought if I get off Nevis ok, I'll take up climbing (unfortunately, we had decided to go up Ben Nevis as a last minute decision. I had no proper outdoor gear... Not even a coat. Wore a black bin bag as my water proof top, and 5 layers of t.shirts/jumpers, and used a bath towel as gloves... I know stupid, and def. don't recommend doing this to anyone, and yes stupid people like us, deserve all we get) Got to the bottom of Nevis ok (walked/jogged down uninjured) and had my heart set on climbing...
Met random guy off the internet Feb 2005, who booked us both on an introductory climbing course in The Lakes. Loved climbing!
Busy with studies, but April 2005 managed to do some indoor top ropes approx. once a fortnight.
Had a gap year August 2005 and spent this getting my climbing up to scratch... Taught myself how to lead... Then sports climb... Then trad...
Now, working in a climbing centre, red pointing 7a's, usually onsight 6c's indoor... Still doing some trad, and sports climbing, which I am trying to improve on. Plus
done some ice climbing in Norway. Have also done the training for SPA.
Plans for future... Climb more, push the grade, and enjoy climbing! More trips abroad... Norway? Thailand?
Met random guy off the internet Feb 2005, who booked us both on an introductory climbing course in The Lakes. Loved climbing!
Busy with studies, but April 2005 managed to do some indoor top ropes approx. once a fortnight.
Had a gap year August 2005 and spent this getting my climbing up to scratch... Taught myself how to lead... Then sports climb... Then trad...
Now, working in a climbing centre, red pointing 7a's, usually onsight 6c's indoor... Still doing some trad, and sports climbing, which I am trying to improve on. Plus
done some ice climbing in Norway. Have also done the training for SPA.
Plans for future... Climb more, push the grade, and enjoy climbing! More trips abroad... Norway? Thailand?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Despite having lived only half an hour away from (so it turns out) some of the best cliff climbing inthe uk, I didn't get into rock climbing until uni at manchester.
Even then I only joined cos they gave you a toothbrush when you signed up!
Still not sure what its for!
Even then I only joined cos they gave you a toothbrush when you signed up!
Still not sure what its for!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I began climbing at my primary school on one of the smaller Outer Hebridean Islands. Not enough 'flat' for soccer or rugby - but a splendid outcrop growing up behind the school (alas long since closed through lack of children). The crag was about 60 foot high, and nothing above V.Diff. The teacher (one of only two) was a WWI veteran who'd lost a leg - knee down - somewhere on the Western Front and wore a heavy metal replacement), and he taught us the 'noble art'. As a quirky punishment - instead of the traditional 'strap' the victim was assigned to carry his 'leg' during the climb...To ease his way he would use the shoulders or backs of pupils as 'holds' for his stump as he made his way upwards. (By today's standards he would have been jailed for unnatural cruelty) but each one of his pupils would have willingly ripped any jail stone from stone to free him. A magnificent man, and a magnificent teacher (all subjects) who gave his students a love of climbing and life in general.
I began climbing at my primary school on one of the smaller Outer Hebridean Islands. Not enough 'flat' for soccer or rugby - but a splendid outcrop growing up behind the school (alas long since closed through lack of children). The crag was about 60 foot high, and nothing above V.Diff. The teacher (one of only two) was a WWI veteran who'd lost a leg - knee down - somewhere on the Western Front and wore a heavy metal replacement), and he taught us the 'noble art'. As a quirky punishment - instead of the traditional 'strap' the victim was assigned to carry his 'leg' during the climb...To ease his way he would use the shoulders or backs of pupils as 'holds' for his stump as he made his way upwards. (By today's standards he would have been jailed for unnatural cruelty) but each one of his pupils would have willingly ripped any jail stone from stone to free him. A magnificent man, and a magnificent teacher (all subjects) who gave his students a love of climbing and life in general.
In reply to gingerkate: Only just
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Amazing how Cadshaw Rocks seems to have played its part in the stories so far. That's where thoughts about climbing up rocks were rekindled for me in 1965 whilst I was whizzing down them on abseil in the Scouts (Hounds Patrol, St Maxentius Troop, Bradshaw). Three years before, however, was when the seeds had first been sown. Me and my pal Nigel got stuck whilst soloing up some cliffs on the west coast of the Isle of Man on a Scout camp. We were probably only 20 feet up but it felt like a long long way. Amusingly, a man purporting to be a mountaineer, who was walking along the beach 'neath the precipice and spotted our predicament, tried to reach us from below but also got stuck. Eventually, after an age, perched on a small ledge and clinging on to what felt like tiny crimps, but were probably quite big jugs, a rope snaked its way down the cliff: "Tie on with a bowline" someone bellowed; "What's a bowline?" I replied; the rope disappeared, then reappeared with a loop into which I wriggled...anyway, we were hauled up the cliff by a team of stout men, and the only person to come off badly was the 'mountaineer' who, consumed by fear, failed to follow instructions to keep his body out from the rock as our rescuers heaved and strained, and emerged at the top of the cliff bloodied and rather freaked out. I definitely got a buzz out of this experience, and the rest was inevitable. Back to Cadshaw......my father, a teacher, had a colleague who had once rock climbed, who kindly donated his rope to us - a hemp job, probably 100 feet. So, aremd with that, clad in plimsolls, and aspiring to a flat cap, we (including Carl Dawson and Steve Jones) started to top rop routes at Cadshaw, then graduated to Wilton Quarries and beyond (my first multi-pitch route was Holly Tree Wall on Raven Crag in Langdale), following the time honoured and traditional path of starting on the V Diffs, slowly and cautiously moving up the ranks, 'the leader never falls' etc.....until we fell in with the Wilton posse, Hank Pasquill, Ian Lonsdale and the rest, who cajoled and hauled us up harder routes, made us believe we could do it, exhorted us to 'trust your feet', and so opened up a whole new world of possiblities. And the rest, as they say, is history. Thanks, lads, for doing that!
Amazing how Cadshaw Rocks seems to have played its part in the stories so far. That's where thoughts about climbing up rocks were rekindled for me in 1965 whilst I was whizzing down them on abseil in the Scouts (Hounds Patrol, St Maxentius Troop, Bradshaw). Three years before, however, was when the seeds had first been sown. Me and my pal Nigel got stuck whilst soloing up some cliffs on the west coast of the Isle of Man on a Scout camp. We were probably only 20 feet up but it felt like a long long way. Amusingly, a man purporting to be a mountaineer, who was walking along the beach 'neath the precipice and spotted our predicament, tried to reach us from below but also got stuck. Eventually, after an age, perched on a small ledge and clinging on to what felt like tiny crimps, but were probably quite big jugs, a rope snaked its way down the cliff: "Tie on with a bowline" someone bellowed; "What's a bowline?" I replied; the rope disappeared, then reappeared with a loop into which I wriggled...anyway, we were hauled up the cliff by a team of stout men, and the only person to come off badly was the 'mountaineer' who, consumed by fear, failed to follow instructions to keep his body out from the rock as our rescuers heaved and strained, and emerged at the top of the cliff bloodied and rather freaked out. I definitely got a buzz out of this experience, and the rest was inevitable. Back to Cadshaw......my father, a teacher, had a colleague who had once rock climbed, who kindly donated his rope to us - a hemp job, probably 100 feet. So, aremd with that, clad in plimsolls, and aspiring to a flat cap, we (including Carl Dawson and Steve Jones) started to top rop routes at Cadshaw, then graduated to Wilton Quarries and beyond (my first multi-pitch route was Holly Tree Wall on Raven Crag in Langdale), following the time honoured and traditional path of starting on the V Diffs, slowly and cautiously moving up the ranks, 'the leader never falls' etc.....until we fell in with the Wilton posse, Hank Pasquill, Ian Lonsdale and the rest, who cajoled and hauled us up harder routes, made us believe we could do it, exhorted us to 'trust your feet', and so opened up a whole new world of possiblities. And the rest, as they say, is history. Thanks, lads, for doing that!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
My dad & his mates were climbers who'd move down to the south east for work & subsequently formed the Chelmsford Mountaineering club to find like-minded people (with cars!) for those trips to the Peak, Wales etc. Thats how he met my mum but unfortunately due to time, money & family commitments he stopped climbing when my older sister was born. Yearly camping & walking holidays followed, which us kids spent mostly climbing trees, rocks & anything else we could get up although dad never actually took us climbing. My first "summit" was Maiden Moor, which might sound pretty tame but its a fair achievement for a 4 year old.
Then my first introduction to "proper" climbing was trips to Harrisons Rocks with the Air Cadets and although I loved every minute I didn't get into it properly until I moved to Manchester. Did my first lead at Millstone (still one of my favourite crags) on my 3rd trip outside and haven't looked back since. I think my dad is quite proud that i'm following in his footsteps - him & my mum still go walking in the Lakes every year but he says its been too long now for him to come out climbing trad with me.
My dad & his mates were climbers who'd move down to the south east for work & subsequently formed the Chelmsford Mountaineering club to find like-minded people (with cars!) for those trips to the Peak, Wales etc. Thats how he met my mum but unfortunately due to time, money & family commitments he stopped climbing when my older sister was born. Yearly camping & walking holidays followed, which us kids spent mostly climbing trees, rocks & anything else we could get up although dad never actually took us climbing. My first "summit" was Maiden Moor, which might sound pretty tame but its a fair achievement for a 4 year old.
Then my first introduction to "proper" climbing was trips to Harrisons Rocks with the Air Cadets and although I loved every minute I didn't get into it properly until I moved to Manchester. Did my first lead at Millstone (still one of my favourite crags) on my 3rd trip outside and haven't looked back since. I think my dad is quite proud that i'm following in his footsteps - him & my mum still go walking in the Lakes every year but he says its been too long now for him to come out climbing trad with me.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: What an interesting thread.
I scrambled since being a teenager, and felt pretty confident on most things but hadn't climbed until being helped on what I guess were some VDiffs in the early 1980s. Did a winter mountain course in Scotland, but I didn't really understand the complicated knots and harnesses, so just stuck at scrambling until many years later, when my twin boys got interested in a local wall after a birthday party. Started being their belay slave every Saturday morning, till I had a permanent crick in my neck and thought perhaps I should have a go too. So we went on a family week at PyB and I was suddenly hooked. Ever since then have continued to realise that I am pretty useless at even the easiest things, but don't care any more, and love trying out some classic routes when I can (not often enough). And lurking on here has been an inspiration too -lots of good advice and ideas!
I scrambled since being a teenager, and felt pretty confident on most things but hadn't climbed until being helped on what I guess were some VDiffs in the early 1980s. Did a winter mountain course in Scotland, but I didn't really understand the complicated knots and harnesses, so just stuck at scrambling until many years later, when my twin boys got interested in a local wall after a birthday party. Started being their belay slave every Saturday morning, till I had a permanent crick in my neck and thought perhaps I should have a go too. So we went on a family week at PyB and I was suddenly hooked. Ever since then have continued to realise that I am pretty useless at even the easiest things, but don't care any more, and love trying out some classic routes when I can (not often enough). And lurking on here has been an inspiration too -lots of good advice and ideas!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I started in the autumn of '87 after my 6th form Geology teacher (Alan Clowes, of the Geography text book fame) decided to open the climbing wall that was in the college grounds . I went along for a look, as I was always climbing trees as a kid and tought it might be a laugh. Now at that time I was always in the sports hall during free periods, playing table tennis, badminton or anything else that was going on.
There were a few pairs of old shoes in the wall so I tried a pair on, they fit (Galibers IIRC, boot like heel on them) and started traversing. Then there was this burning sensation in my arms, which subsided when I dropped off. But bizzarely I liked the feeling, so got back on and made it a bit further round the wall before that feeling kicked in again. And then procceeded to go back to the wall every dinner time, getting so stupidly pumped I couldn't hold a pen in A level Maths, but it didn't matter because I was happy.
Soon after I had my frist trip to Parbold Quarry, climbing the VS which was in the corner of the main wall, then the HVS just to the right on a mates gear (lad called Dan, big strong lad who was a climber anyway).
Nearly 20 years later I'm still as hooked as I was back on that first traverse.
Andy F
There were a few pairs of old shoes in the wall so I tried a pair on, they fit (Galibers IIRC, boot like heel on them) and started traversing. Then there was this burning sensation in my arms, which subsided when I dropped off. But bizzarely I liked the feeling, so got back on and made it a bit further round the wall before that feeling kicked in again. And then procceeded to go back to the wall every dinner time, getting so stupidly pumped I couldn't hold a pen in A level Maths, but it didn't matter because I was happy.
Soon after I had my frist trip to Parbold Quarry, climbing the VS which was in the corner of the main wall, then the HVS just to the right on a mates gear (lad called Dan, big strong lad who was a climber anyway).
Nearly 20 years later I'm still as hooked as I was back on that first traverse.
Andy F
I started when i was 14, my brother was going climbing and i didn't realise that we even had a climbing wall at my school but i went down to see what it was like and got bitten by the bug- i'm now mad about it
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I grew up in Essex, a long way from the hills. But when I was 7 or 8 my parents took us on what was to be the first of several annual week-long breaks to Snowdonia. The first time, I was thrilled at the thought of seeing mountains, I don't know why they had such a grip on my imagination.
My parents weren't outdoor people and we mostly just drove around and looked at the scenery. But I remember picnicking in the Llanberis Pass and watching climbers on Dinas Gromlech - this would be the early-mid sixties, so who knows who they could have been? I was fascinated, but had neither the opportunity nor parental approval to climb myself.
I joined the Scouts and CCF and did plenty of walking, including Arduous Training in Snowdonia with the cadets. Then when I went to university in 1972 the first thing I did was join the mountaineering club. A couple of weeks later I was at Froggatt cutting my teeth on "Slab Recess".
I grew up in Essex, a long way from the hills. But when I was 7 or 8 my parents took us on what was to be the first of several annual week-long breaks to Snowdonia. The first time, I was thrilled at the thought of seeing mountains, I don't know why they had such a grip on my imagination.
My parents weren't outdoor people and we mostly just drove around and looked at the scenery. But I remember picnicking in the Llanberis Pass and watching climbers on Dinas Gromlech - this would be the early-mid sixties, so who knows who they could have been? I was fascinated, but had neither the opportunity nor parental approval to climb myself.
I joined the Scouts and CCF and did plenty of walking, including Arduous Training in Snowdonia with the cadets. Then when I went to university in 1972 the first thing I did was join the mountaineering club. A couple of weeks later I was at Froggatt cutting my teeth on "Slab Recess".
I've looked it up, and I'm in danger of hyperventilating here.
I GREW UP WITHIN 5 MILES OF THAT THING. WHY THE HECK HAVE I NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE?????
(The answer is, as I said in my response to Mick's original query, that I wasn't a climber when I stopped living in that part of the world in 1988.)
<Sigh.>
I GREW UP WITHIN 5 MILES OF THAT THING. WHY THE HECK HAVE I NEVER SEEN IT BEFORE?????
(The answer is, as I said in my response to Mick's original query, that I wasn't a climber when I stopped living in that part of the world in 1988.)
<Sigh.>
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I started around 5 years ago - at the age of 49 (is this some kind of record!?).
My girlfriend took me to stanage for a walk,as I thought,then at the foot of Eric's Eliminate,a severe, produced a pair of rock shoes and an old harness and said - "hold the rope like this,I'm going up there,and you follow".
Since then,I've climbed at most of the derbyshire and yorkshire gritstone areas, and I love it.At present I'm trying to add to my list of VS leads.I dont bother much with indoor walls - I prefer the drama of the outdoors.
My cousin is one of the greatest climbers of the last 30 years who has put up lots of new extreme routes - but I've never climbed with him,it would be too embarrassing.
I started around 5 years ago - at the age of 49 (is this some kind of record!?).
My girlfriend took me to stanage for a walk,as I thought,then at the foot of Eric's Eliminate,a severe, produced a pair of rock shoes and an old harness and said - "hold the rope like this,I'm going up there,and you follow".
Since then,I've climbed at most of the derbyshire and yorkshire gritstone areas, and I love it.At present I'm trying to add to my list of VS leads.I dont bother much with indoor walls - I prefer the drama of the outdoors.
My cousin is one of the greatest climbers of the last 30 years who has put up lots of new extreme routes - but I've never climbed with him,it would be too embarrassing.
In reply to Tim Chappell: I wouldn't worry too much, of I were you - Cadhsaw Rocks and the adjacent quarry are pretty shitty on the world scale.....unbelievably fabulous to impressionable 16 year olds cutting their teeth, but when I went back many years after leaving the area, having by then travelled the world a bit, I was a tad disappointed....
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I don't remember my first climbing experience, mostly becaus eI can't remember a time in my life when I didn't climb. My parents had both climbed sice their early twenties, so I think it seemed natural that when my borther and I came along the climbing just continued. I don't remember what age I was first tied on to a rope, seems likely it was quite young with my Dad fashioning some sort of harness for me out of bits of rope and slings!
I do have very vivid memmories of my first full body harness arriving and being swung around the kitchen in it! I also remember my love of my pairs of horrendously coloured leggings as I then looked like a proper climber! Fifteen years on not much progression in climbing skill has been made, aged 12 I was seconding HVS's quite happily, one look at my UKClimbing logbook will make you realise I was a child progedy whose star has sadly faded!
I don't remember my first climbing experience, mostly becaus eI can't remember a time in my life when I didn't climb. My parents had both climbed sice their early twenties, so I think it seemed natural that when my borther and I came along the climbing just continued. I don't remember what age I was first tied on to a rope, seems likely it was quite young with my Dad fashioning some sort of harness for me out of bits of rope and slings!
I do have very vivid memmories of my first full body harness arriving and being swung around the kitchen in it! I also remember my love of my pairs of horrendously coloured leggings as I then looked like a proper climber! Fifteen years on not much progression in climbing skill has been made, aged 12 I was seconding HVS's quite happily, one look at my UKClimbing logbook will make you realise I was a child progedy whose star has sadly faded!
I am a bit slow, only just caught this thread.
Mine was atypical in that I lived in Portsmouth. Not known for it's rock faces (unless it's chalk - which can have it's moments). I had done loads of walking as part of DofE Ten Tor's stuff on Dartmore and elsewhere. One day I was out in Old Portsmouth on the famouse Napoleonic Sea Walls and spotted a long haired 'youth' scrambling over the top of the walls (this turned out to be Nick Buckley who became my climbing partner for the next five years).
Conversation led to climing with the Poly CC and older members. This led to loads of brick edge and washed out cement holds on the sea walls for about a year.
The went on my first outing to Bristol where I led my first climb (some HVS) then on to chedder where with Nick I led Coronation Street. From there things moved to Swanage where we did loads of new routing along with Gordon Jenkin and others from the club.
Problem was I moved to London for work, leaving everyone in Pompey. Found Love and after about 10 years on the most fab crags in the UK at Pembroke, Swanage, Torbay, Bosigran etc seem to have gave up and did family... Now, on to a second family and looking longingly at the (now very) old gear still in my loft. And, no the Whillans will not fit at all! I think my days of E4 are looong gone
Spend my time looking at the hard stuff done on this site and going christ! people are good these days!
Mine was atypical in that I lived in Portsmouth. Not known for it's rock faces (unless it's chalk - which can have it's moments). I had done loads of walking as part of DofE Ten Tor's stuff on Dartmore and elsewhere. One day I was out in Old Portsmouth on the famouse Napoleonic Sea Walls and spotted a long haired 'youth' scrambling over the top of the walls (this turned out to be Nick Buckley who became my climbing partner for the next five years).
Conversation led to climing with the Poly CC and older members. This led to loads of brick edge and washed out cement holds on the sea walls for about a year.
The went on my first outing to Bristol where I led my first climb (some HVS) then on to chedder where with Nick I led Coronation Street. From there things moved to Swanage where we did loads of new routing along with Gordon Jenkin and others from the club.
Problem was I moved to London for work, leaving everyone in Pompey. Found Love and after about 10 years on the most fab crags in the UK at Pembroke, Swanage, Torbay, Bosigran etc seem to have gave up and did family... Now, on to a second family and looking longingly at the (now very) old gear still in my loft. And, no the Whillans will not fit at all! I think my days of E4 are looong gone
Spend my time looking at the hard stuff done on this site and going christ! people are good these days!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Adolescent years of outdoor activity - Scouts from age 11, unsupervised camping from about age 12 (no sniggering at the back) which generally involved getting the bus out into the Northumberland countryside, and walking for about 2 miles to get to the approved campsite at West Hartford.
More adventurous scout trips, then I took up cycling, which was my main sport until my early 20's.
At 16 our school started an 'Exploration society' which basically meant an October week holiday for one of the teachers and about eight sixth formers hiking and hostelling in the lakes. The basic rule was the teacher told us which pub he was going to , and didn't want to see us in it!
Walking down Borrowdale, and through Langdale I was fascinated by the climbers.
We hiked over Helvellyn with full packs, and fresh snow underfoot - great fun.
My father was developing an interest in fell walking, and we had a number of holidays in the Highlands, where a few Munros were ticked (though we didn't know what Munros were at the time) -- However my main sport was cycling, and was well in to road racing, so getting our into the hills was just a pleasant diversion.
In my early 20's a period of unemployment, following a period away from home when my cycling club links were broken and I lost interest in racing --( I was interested in too many other things to devote as much time to the sport as some of my peers did though I can say I raced and trained with some pretty big names, and very occasionally came out on top.) I've always loved reading, and by chance I picked up Lionel Terray's 'Conquistadors of the Useless'
I was hooked.
With another cyclist who was looking for fresh challenges, we decided to try climbing.
I bought a rope and some very basic gear (Hemp waistlength, steel krabs, and a couple of slings), and the old slim Northumberland guide (with the card cover) and set about conquering the Simonside and Wanney diffs. My father was occasionally pressed in to holding my rope, and though he was more keen on long walks, he loved the mountain experience.
A visit to Causey, and a chance meeting with Ed Thompson confirmed that this was the sport for me (but not for my mate Mike), and the magic world of VS climbing beckoned.
Shortly after leading my first VS - in plimsolls, I got my first paie of rock boots -- Ed's dad's cast off PA's
A move to the Lakes - in the formative years of the Eden Valley club at Penrith, consolidated my love of climbing, and though never having been dragged up anything harder than an E2, or winter Gr III, or led more than the occasional HVS, I've yet to find a more rewarding pastime.
My great regret is that I've never climbed in the Alps - mainly due to family considerations -- and now I'm too old and unfit to do it justice.
I had a climbing bonus in my 50's when I was working in the Emirates, and was involved with an active exploration scene - though generally as a willing second to much better climbers.
Injuries (tendonitis and shoulder rotator problems) have curtailed my climbing over the past couple of years, and I'm just getting too lazy to put the effort in to getting back out on the hill regularly -- especially having a non climbing partner -- but I keep threatening to, which means I probably will get back to bumbling up classics. Hey Ho!
Adolescent years of outdoor activity - Scouts from age 11, unsupervised camping from about age 12 (no sniggering at the back) which generally involved getting the bus out into the Northumberland countryside, and walking for about 2 miles to get to the approved campsite at West Hartford.
More adventurous scout trips, then I took up cycling, which was my main sport until my early 20's.
At 16 our school started an 'Exploration society' which basically meant an October week holiday for one of the teachers and about eight sixth formers hiking and hostelling in the lakes. The basic rule was the teacher told us which pub he was going to , and didn't want to see us in it!
Walking down Borrowdale, and through Langdale I was fascinated by the climbers.
We hiked over Helvellyn with full packs, and fresh snow underfoot - great fun.
My father was developing an interest in fell walking, and we had a number of holidays in the Highlands, where a few Munros were ticked (though we didn't know what Munros were at the time) -- However my main sport was cycling, and was well in to road racing, so getting our into the hills was just a pleasant diversion.
In my early 20's a period of unemployment, following a period away from home when my cycling club links were broken and I lost interest in racing --( I was interested in too many other things to devote as much time to the sport as some of my peers did though I can say I raced and trained with some pretty big names, and very occasionally came out on top.) I've always loved reading, and by chance I picked up Lionel Terray's 'Conquistadors of the Useless'
I was hooked.
With another cyclist who was looking for fresh challenges, we decided to try climbing.
I bought a rope and some very basic gear (Hemp waistlength, steel krabs, and a couple of slings), and the old slim Northumberland guide (with the card cover) and set about conquering the Simonside and Wanney diffs. My father was occasionally pressed in to holding my rope, and though he was more keen on long walks, he loved the mountain experience.
A visit to Causey, and a chance meeting with Ed Thompson confirmed that this was the sport for me (but not for my mate Mike), and the magic world of VS climbing beckoned.
Shortly after leading my first VS - in plimsolls, I got my first paie of rock boots -- Ed's dad's cast off PA's
A move to the Lakes - in the formative years of the Eden Valley club at Penrith, consolidated my love of climbing, and though never having been dragged up anything harder than an E2, or winter Gr III, or led more than the occasional HVS, I've yet to find a more rewarding pastime.
My great regret is that I've never climbed in the Alps - mainly due to family considerations -- and now I'm too old and unfit to do it justice.
I had a climbing bonus in my 50's when I was working in the Emirates, and was involved with an active exploration scene - though generally as a willing second to much better climbers.
Injuries (tendonitis and shoulder rotator problems) have curtailed my climbing over the past couple of years, and I'm just getting too lazy to put the effort in to getting back out on the hill regularly -- especially having a non climbing partner -- but I keep threatening to, which means I probably will get back to bumbling up classics. Hey Ho!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
WEas working for a college as a residential warden and offered to take some of the students to a local climbing wall as an evening activity.
They talked me into doing some with them and I was hooked immediately.
I was 36 at the time and had always been afraid of heights
Now working as a free-lance instructor.
WEas working for a college as a residential warden and offered to take some of the students to a local climbing wall as an evening activity.
They talked me into doing some with them and I was hooked immediately.
I was 36 at the time and had always been afraid of heights
Now working as a free-lance instructor.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I've walked/ hillwalked since I was in the scouts. I think I went climbing once at uni with the uni climbing club and didn't really take to it.
I started taking my kids up mountains individually as they reached the age of about 7. By the time my son (the oldest)was 9 or so (and I was 41) we were getting onto some pretty scary ground, so I bought a 20 metre "confidence rope", 2 screwgates, 5 nuts, a couple of slings and a book about climbing techniques, and learned the basics of setting up a belay.
We did a few scrambles, and I joined our local mountaineering club (though I didn't go along to meets). I decided I'd better be a bit more prepared for our next summer trips, so booked a "Winter Skills" course with MountainCraft in Ft William (main attraction was they advertised ropework skills would be taught as well as winter techniques, and I'd be ready for more adventurous stuff with my lad the following summer).
I enjoyed the winter experience a lot, and was then in the odd position of having done some winter climbing before I'd done anything other than scrambling in summer. I was confident enough in my ropework but felt I needed to do a bit of rock climbing before taking my son out anywhere tougher than the scrambled we'd done the previous year, so I started going to our local MC meets and top-roping on the sandstone. Got some semi-static rope, shoes, etc and started taking my kids onto the sandstone, too.
I quickly started going on away trips with the club, seconding routes on grit mainly. I did my first lead aged 43, on "Compost Corner" at Stanage, an 8 metre Diff of no merit to speak of, closely followed by Gardner's Crack, another Diff nearby. The clues are in the names of these climbs!
My first multi-pitch climb was "Slick" in the Moelwyns, later the same year, swinging leads. I found it surprisingly easy. I probably then spent a year not leading anything harder than V Diff. My first Severe lead was Balcony Buttress at Stanage and my first Multi-pitch Severe lead was Crackstone Rib on Carreg Wastad, which I did with my son seconding (only his second multipitch, aged about 12). This one reinforced the idea of checking your partner's set-up carefully, as it was only when looking back from the end of the traverse (we took a belay at the top of the short steep start section) that I noticed he was belaying me from a gear loop!
I was progressing nicely (by my punterish standards) when I took a leader fall at Swanage before I'd got any gear in and decked out, busting my elbow. It took a year to get right again physically (though I still have restricted movement in that arm) but much longer to get my leading head back properly. In fact it's only this year that I've really started enjoying leading again, and I bust my elbow in 2002!
I've walked/ hillwalked since I was in the scouts. I think I went climbing once at uni with the uni climbing club and didn't really take to it.
I started taking my kids up mountains individually as they reached the age of about 7. By the time my son (the oldest)was 9 or so (and I was 41) we were getting onto some pretty scary ground, so I bought a 20 metre "confidence rope", 2 screwgates, 5 nuts, a couple of slings and a book about climbing techniques, and learned the basics of setting up a belay.
We did a few scrambles, and I joined our local mountaineering club (though I didn't go along to meets). I decided I'd better be a bit more prepared for our next summer trips, so booked a "Winter Skills" course with MountainCraft in Ft William (main attraction was they advertised ropework skills would be taught as well as winter techniques, and I'd be ready for more adventurous stuff with my lad the following summer).
I enjoyed the winter experience a lot, and was then in the odd position of having done some winter climbing before I'd done anything other than scrambling in summer. I was confident enough in my ropework but felt I needed to do a bit of rock climbing before taking my son out anywhere tougher than the scrambled we'd done the previous year, so I started going to our local MC meets and top-roping on the sandstone. Got some semi-static rope, shoes, etc and started taking my kids onto the sandstone, too.
I quickly started going on away trips with the club, seconding routes on grit mainly. I did my first lead aged 43, on "Compost Corner" at Stanage, an 8 metre Diff of no merit to speak of, closely followed by Gardner's Crack, another Diff nearby. The clues are in the names of these climbs!
My first multi-pitch climb was "Slick" in the Moelwyns, later the same year, swinging leads. I found it surprisingly easy. I probably then spent a year not leading anything harder than V Diff. My first Severe lead was Balcony Buttress at Stanage and my first Multi-pitch Severe lead was Crackstone Rib on Carreg Wastad, which I did with my son seconding (only his second multipitch, aged about 12). This one reinforced the idea of checking your partner's set-up carefully, as it was only when looking back from the end of the traverse (we took a belay at the top of the short steep start section) that I noticed he was belaying me from a gear loop!
I was progressing nicely (by my punterish standards) when I took a leader fall at Swanage before I'd got any gear in and decked out, busting my elbow. It took a year to get right again physically (though I still have restricted movement in that arm) but much longer to get my leading head back properly. In fact it's only this year that I've really started enjoying leading again, and I bust my elbow in 2002!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Well...I got into it in a real 'round the houses' kinda way! I used to be a bit of a 'naughty boy' in school and every wed afternoon I'd bunk off my school lessons because I hated the teacher!
One week I was sat smoking dope around the back of the swimming pool when I heard a lot of noise coming from inside - turns out it was a teacher (Bob Downing, good guy!) teaching kids with downs syndrome how to kayak. Long story short, I started to help out teaching them and really loved it, Bob put me forward to go on a winter expedition to Canada where I met, for the first time, real climbers!
I was intrigued by their stories and their life and when they suggested I started I pointed out a problem. I was scared of heights! BIG TIME!...like would get dizzy and feel sick! LOL! They worked for the local Youth Service and suggested going climbing with them to 'cure' me and...it did!
So from the first days of top roping at Pex hill I've never looked back and I'm grateful to all those guys who got me into climbing/the mountains for all those sunsets and sunrises seen, that would never have been seen, and all those friends that would never have been met if it wasn't for the introduction by those guys such a long time ago :oD
That's my story!
Well...I got into it in a real 'round the houses' kinda way! I used to be a bit of a 'naughty boy' in school and every wed afternoon I'd bunk off my school lessons because I hated the teacher!
One week I was sat smoking dope around the back of the swimming pool when I heard a lot of noise coming from inside - turns out it was a teacher (Bob Downing, good guy!) teaching kids with downs syndrome how to kayak. Long story short, I started to help out teaching them and really loved it, Bob put me forward to go on a winter expedition to Canada where I met, for the first time, real climbers!
I was intrigued by their stories and their life and when they suggested I started I pointed out a problem. I was scared of heights! BIG TIME!...like would get dizzy and feel sick! LOL! They worked for the local Youth Service and suggested going climbing with them to 'cure' me and...it did!
So from the first days of top roping at Pex hill I've never looked back and I'm grateful to all those guys who got me into climbing/the mountains for all those sunsets and sunrises seen, that would never have been seen, and all those friends that would never have been met if it wasn't for the introduction by those guys such a long time ago :oD
That's my story!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
School Activities Week, July 1978, Aged 13 - week in Capel Curig with climbing on Idwal slabs lead by totally uncertificated but eminently well qualified (wouldn't be allowed these days) maths teachers. I must have shown some promise as I was allowed to follow up Tennis Shoe at the end of the day. I haven't got any better, but I've had a lot of fun since.
School Activities Week, July 1978, Aged 13 - week in Capel Curig with climbing on Idwal slabs lead by totally uncertificated but eminently well qualified (wouldn't be allowed these days) maths teachers. I must have shown some promise as I was allowed to follow up Tennis Shoe at the end of the day. I haven't got any better, but I've had a lot of fun since.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: i was at uni, they had a small bouldering wall, i quite liked one or two of the boys who stripped off to boulder. nice backs. now im obsessed with it, and love it for the sport not just the nice bods.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I bought a book and borrowed some gear from friends dad who used to climb and then had a go... not dead yet, so must have worked...
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
i wonder how many 14 year old kids today would be able to start climbing the way I did? As kids, we had no real option to going outside at the weekends and in school holidays. Parents wouldn't let us stay in - we were in the way!
A mate in school, Geoff, had some climbing gear and we spent one Saturday up at Conwy slab, he showing me how the stuff worked - ropes, krabs, slings and nuts. The next day, my 14th birthday, we hitched from Conwy up to Ogwen with our eyes on the Ordinary Route on Rhiwiau Caws (Idwal Slabs). He dragged me up on the end of a very heavy and stiff 120ft laid rope, placing about 3 dodgy runners all the way up. I got scared fartless on the whole thing, but it led to a lot of climbing for us both over the years. We went on to climb the old classics, put up new routes on Pen Trwyn (Great Orme)up to about E2 standard, and get ourselves involved with ice. For me, I started my own kids climbing by taking them up some French Vie Ferrate last summer.
Funny after all these years, I only just told my mum that on my 14th birthday I was climbing in Idwal back in 1974 - she thought I was fishing or doing something else 'sensible'!
i wonder how many 14 year old kids today would be able to start climbing the way I did? As kids, we had no real option to going outside at the weekends and in school holidays. Parents wouldn't let us stay in - we were in the way!
A mate in school, Geoff, had some climbing gear and we spent one Saturday up at Conwy slab, he showing me how the stuff worked - ropes, krabs, slings and nuts. The next day, my 14th birthday, we hitched from Conwy up to Ogwen with our eyes on the Ordinary Route on Rhiwiau Caws (Idwal Slabs). He dragged me up on the end of a very heavy and stiff 120ft laid rope, placing about 3 dodgy runners all the way up. I got scared fartless on the whole thing, but it led to a lot of climbing for us both over the years. We went on to climb the old classics, put up new routes on Pen Trwyn (Great Orme)up to about E2 standard, and get ourselves involved with ice. For me, I started my own kids climbing by taking them up some French Vie Ferrate last summer.
Funny after all these years, I only just told my mum that on my 14th birthday I was climbing in Idwal back in 1974 - she thought I was fishing or doing something else 'sensible'!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Hi Mick
Glad to have played a small part in your personal development! They really were halcion days skiving school to climb slippery greasy rock climbs at Witches, Hoghton, Wilton etc. You always had more bottle even if I had more technique, I am still in N Cumbria, a little climbing but mostly fell running, orienteering and mountain marathons. Still absolutely love the mountains but not well travelled. Would love to hear more from you and info about Greg, Chris etc.
Great to make contact
John Noblett
Hi Mick
Glad to have played a small part in your personal development! They really were halcion days skiving school to climb slippery greasy rock climbs at Witches, Hoghton, Wilton etc. You always had more bottle even if I had more technique, I am still in N Cumbria, a little climbing but mostly fell running, orienteering and mountain marathons. Still absolutely love the mountains but not well travelled. Would love to hear more from you and info about Greg, Chris etc.
Great to make contact
John Noblett
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: i started climbing at 22 after meeting some people in the local villiage pub who said they climbed and i said i'd like to try it.
first trip was at rutland waters free standing tower then from that moment i was hooked.
I went out and bought myself some shoes, chalkbag and harness.
went climbing at leicester wall weekly and every weekend possible we went tradding in the Peak district (usually birchen, windgather and stanage - camping at north lees) and in Leicestershire.
i found this site by accident 6 months later and went to the cratcliffe picnic. Met loads of brilliant people - lots being my closest friends now.
The picnic was my first ever time bouldering. i loved it.
so I pretty much stopped tradding after that and only did bouldering and sports (indoors) then moved to sheffield to be closer to the rocks and my new friends.
i have no quarms saying that climbing definately changed my life forever.
first trip was at rutland waters free standing tower then from that moment i was hooked.
I went out and bought myself some shoes, chalkbag and harness.
went climbing at leicester wall weekly and every weekend possible we went tradding in the Peak district (usually birchen, windgather and stanage - camping at north lees) and in Leicestershire.
i found this site by accident 6 months later and went to the cratcliffe picnic. Met loads of brilliant people - lots being my closest friends now.
The picnic was my first ever time bouldering. i loved it.
so I pretty much stopped tradding after that and only did bouldering and sports (indoors) then moved to sheffield to be closer to the rocks and my new friends.
i have no quarms saying that climbing definately changed my life forever.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
When i was around 20 i started going walking in the lakes, which i really enjoyed. However, i soon realised that as soon as things got in any way steep, rocky, scree-y or slightly scrambly i developed hideous vertigo resulting in one or more of the following: inability to move up or down, dizzyness, crawling on all fours, tears, general wimp-ness.
i lived near the local climbing centre and decided to have beginner's lessons to try and get over fear of heights. Took me a while to get into climbing, but have been going for 8 years now and am now over fear of heights (more or less!) really enjoy scrambling now!
I've only been leading (inside) for 1.5 years and found the old fear came back slightly, but was quicker to get over this time. fear is there to be conquered!
When i was around 20 i started going walking in the lakes, which i really enjoyed. However, i soon realised that as soon as things got in any way steep, rocky, scree-y or slightly scrambly i developed hideous vertigo resulting in one or more of the following: inability to move up or down, dizzyness, crawling on all fours, tears, general wimp-ness.
i lived near the local climbing centre and decided to have beginner's lessons to try and get over fear of heights. Took me a while to get into climbing, but have been going for 8 years now and am now over fear of heights (more or less!) really enjoy scrambling now!
I've only been leading (inside) for 1.5 years and found the old fear came back slightly, but was quicker to get over this time. fear is there to be conquered!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I started climbing in France when I was 19 and living out there. Got a tad obsessed with it over there, and carried on when I got back here at Portland. Really wasn't inspired by it, so started looking into trad. Bought myself a set of nuts and some slings and went scrambling on Tryfan Fach, didn't know much about setting up belays or anything, but managed to survive. My parents sent me on a trad leading course for my 21st birthday, and two weeks later I got a couple of hexes and headed to Chudleigh, where I did Green Mantle Variation 1a, HS 4b, because I misread the guide. Thankully I can normally find the right route nowadays.
I started climbing in France when I was 19 and living out there. Got a tad obsessed with it over there, and carried on when I got back here at Portland. Really wasn't inspired by it, so started looking into trad. Bought myself a set of nuts and some slings and went scrambling on Tryfan Fach, didn't know much about setting up belays or anything, but managed to survive. My parents sent me on a trad leading course for my 21st birthday, and two weeks later I got a couple of hexes and headed to Chudleigh, where I did Green Mantle Variation 1a, HS 4b, because I misread the guide. Thankully I can normally find the right route nowadays.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I started caving and hiking in an Doset Scout group at 12. Did odd bit of climbing as a break in late teens. Moved to Derby post school and did more climbing than caving. Took up cave diving but got a job in London so was easier to get to climb than cave dive from there. (Hitching was main mode of transport at time).
Discovered Alps in 84, ice Climbing in 86 and Himalaya in 87. Havn't been down a cave since. Time to restart me thinks!!!!
I started caving and hiking in an Doset Scout group at 12. Did odd bit of climbing as a break in late teens. Moved to Derby post school and did more climbing than caving. Took up cave diving but got a job in London so was easier to get to climb than cave dive from there. (Hitching was main mode of transport at time).
Discovered Alps in 84, ice Climbing in 86 and Himalaya in 87. Havn't been down a cave since. Time to restart me thinks!!!!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I first went climbing with a former school friend of mine, who climbed regularly in Snowdonia, Skye and the Alps. We were sitting in the boozer one evening, as one does, when he asked if I would like to go with him on his next weekend in Snowdonia.
I hesitated and my wife said go on, it will do you good. I went. We climbed Amphitheatre Buttress and Lockwood's Chimney. I was hooked.
That was in 1964. Sadly my friend died a few years later in an accident in the Alps.
Does my regret at losing my friend outweigh the pleasure I have had from climbing and hill-walking?
Too tough to answer.
I first went climbing with a former school friend of mine, who climbed regularly in Snowdonia, Skye and the Alps. We were sitting in the boozer one evening, as one does, when he asked if I would like to go with him on his next weekend in Snowdonia.
I hesitated and my wife said go on, it will do you good. I went. We climbed Amphitheatre Buttress and Lockwood's Chimney. I was hooked.
That was in 1964. Sadly my friend died a few years later in an accident in the Alps.
Does my regret at losing my friend outweigh the pleasure I have had from climbing and hill-walking?
Too tough to answer.
In reply to Peter Gillman:
I think my first time (god that sounds dodgey!) was on a school trip when I was about 11, it was outdoors in the peaks somewhere. I then did the odd bit of indoor climbing, and only really fell well in love with rock about 3 years ago, it was at the Roaches I had my 'love at first grip moment'! Now I climb around britain and am dearly looking forward to my first mile high multipitch!
I think my first time (god that sounds dodgey!) was on a school trip when I was about 11, it was outdoors in the peaks somewhere. I then did the odd bit of indoor climbing, and only really fell well in love with rock about 3 years ago, it was at the Roaches I had my 'love at first grip moment'! Now I climb around britain and am dearly looking forward to my first mile high multipitch!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I saw your query in a U.S. forum but there were no responses. For an American girl, it didn't start whilst following an older sister and her boyfriend up a long scramble in RMNP. Though I was left alone on an exposed ledge facing a blank wall taller than I, I was damned not to cry out for help. I stretched out for a 1 inch tree root, regardless of the possible consequences, and cranked. Successful, but ashamed!
It started 10 yrs. later in college with a sparkly eyed boyish man who left the city weekends to climb in J.T. I just wanted to get out of town, but climbed for the next 15 years!
It started 10 yrs. later in college with a sparkly eyed boyish man who left the city weekends to climb in J.T. I just wanted to get out of town, but climbed for the next 15 years!
In reply to John Noblett:
Hey, now then Nobby, re-emerging from the mist of time after 25 years...
Would love to hitch up, Mick's in Kendal, Chris is in Lancs at the moment and I'm in Derbyshire. Kendal would be good to rendevous? Catch up and all that...
Hey, now then Nobby, re-emerging from the mist of time after 25 years...
Would love to hitch up, Mick's in Kendal, Chris is in Lancs at the moment and I'm in Derbyshire. Kendal would be good to rendevous? Catch up and all that...
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