UKC

Fresh from her success on Janus (see UKClimbing.com new item and associated thread, "Lucy Creamer Starts to Headpoint - Janus E7 6b") Lucy Creamer has now added Top Loader an E7 6c to her recent successes. Top Loader is situated at the North Bay area of Millstone in the Peaks District.

As ever Lucy ...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


From Lucy's blog:

"So I found a pretty good RP1 below the peg, which I could place on lead."

Aren't "pretty good" and "RP1" mutually exclusive!?

A fine effort. And then London Wall almost onsight as well! What a day.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Re. London wall

"I surprised myself that I was able to go for it at the top. I thought with all this top roping that I’d been doing I might have lost my leading head a bit. But I managed to battle away and hang in there, get pumped, make some horrific faces to pull over the top in a heap.

I don’t know where the crux is meant to be but the top felt hard to me…"

Better strike that off the list then for a while....

The Ent ™

In reply to Enty:
Ben Cossey failed on the onsight not too long ago apparently too! in fact, who knows someone who's actually managed to onsight or flash it??

In reply to abarro81: leo houlding?

In reply to abarro81: louise shepherd, early 1980's.Or so I've been told.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

/me does a dance

Is this news? I think not. Big up to Lucy but she's flashed E7 so a headpoint isn't much of a big deal, surely?

In reply to abarro81:

I know someone who on sighted London Wall, abarro

Neil

In reply to Neil Foster:
good effort (i'm presuming the means you did?)..
andi - even i don't want this discussion again and i love slating news for not being news!

In reply to Neil Foster:

Hi Neil.

Boggy did too!!! And Accy Nez i think.

The Ent ™

In reply to abarro81:

I know someone who was on the face of it weak as hell and had no stamina, who onsighted it and repeated it frequently. And someone else who had awesome stamina who repeatedly failed to redpoint it. Mysterious.

jcm

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>Top Loader is situated at the North Bay area of Millstone in the Peaks District.



...nice try ... where's Al when you need someone to bite?

;0)

Si

In reply to andi_e:



I'm interested in your definition of news Andi.

Care to define it for UKC?

Mick

In reply to abarro81:

Tobias Wolf onsighted it. In the rain.....


gulp

jh

In reply to andi_e: Jog on sad act! Go climbing

In reply to john horscroft:

From what I know of Tobias Wolf most of his climbs on gritstone had a touch of the "gulp" about them though onsighting London Wall in the rain is rather gulp-worthy even for him...

bluebrad

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good effort Lucy.

Here's some news from the ground uppers. Nic Sellers got into the top groove of Janus on-sight last week and fell off (depsite the fact he'd climbed this section on Rigid Digit). Gutted!

James MaCaffie and Pete Robbins did Master's Edge ground up yesterday. James apparently climbed all the way to the crux slap and reversed to the ground! Pete then took a fall, James then led it without any falls and continued up Great Arete. Pete then led it.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
so did McCaffie not fall off at all then - only reversed? that counts as a (first?) flash in my book...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

It's all happening...

http://climbingworks.blogspot.com/
"On a cold grey October day ( ie yesterday ) Lucinda Hughes made an impressive ascent of her second E7 Deathwatch E7 6b at Ilkey in Yorkshire. After a quick session on a top rope she went for the lead ( even though there is no gear ) and despatched it in good style. It was a fine effort and was captured by Ben P for the forthcoming Hard XS film..."

I thought Geraldine on sighted it. Well she never falls off anyway!

oh come on, surely an onsight of London Wall doesnt count as being worthy of news and comment???!!! I know folk dont like the " i know lots of people who've done that" sort of chat, but in this case it's very, very true!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Any idea what state the in-situ gear on Top Loader is like?

In reply to Jamie B.:

if you have ridiculously severe onsight ethics, stop reading this now...





...otherwise:
first peg is rubbish but easy to back up
next 2 pegs are okish - you can back then up if you think they need it
the central bolt is very old and has a very crappy hanger - better to put a wire over it
the peg up and left is off-route unless you have arms like a gibbon, but as lucy said you can place an RP 1 instead. together with the wire over the bolt I think it would be about enough
the peg before the crux seems good and can be backed up with gear in saville street
the top peg and bolt are both okish - take your pick or clip both for good measure

the problem is that they're all ok but never quite bomber, so you're always a little worried, so you're never quite as relaxed as you would be on a sport route.

great climbing though!

In reply to john arran:

Won't be onsighting it anytime soon; idle armchair curiosity!

In reply to Jamie B.:

Well done to Lucy, should be a good winter at this rate.

It's also good to read that Lucinda has done Deathwatch and Master's has possibly had it's first flash, although with Caf not being foreign or female it's probably not of interest to most people

In reply to GDes: I saw Grimer fall off it, and he even had some knowledge of the route having been on it many many years before that on a failed onsight ascent. And I'm sure in the Planet Fear photo shoot of the route they said that Miles Gibson fell off trying to onsight it.

So on the basis that Niall and Miles, who are both very good climbers, fell off it, those nameless masses who have onsighted London Wall should be really chuffed with themselves.

I'd send it to Mick as news if I onsighted it! But that would be more in the "miracle" than "news" category and you'd probably have folk from the Vatican sniffing around Millstone as a result.

In reply to TobyA: Much as I am pleased at your error of putting me in the same price range as Miles, there's just a small point.

When I was on it years ago, it was just the very bottom bit. I was climbing with Chris Plant, and had on a pair of ancient, day0glo green lycra, and no underpants. As such, a quadrant of unwanted flesh and curly hair was poking out of the central seems in my hose, and disgusted Chris so much he asked me to come down as he couldn't look. So I did.

So, when I went to try LW that time you saw me, in my heart it felt like an on-sight. As such, when I tried it, I got to a point of basically looking at the top of the crag, and I remember saying to myself, F*ck me, I'm going to flash London Wall. A second later I had taken the big fall onto those runners at the rest, and I remember saying to myself, 'Ah ha. So I'm just another person who has failed on London Wall.'

Cruel.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I don't want to sound petty, but my mate Nick on-sighted it in 1989, and I held his ropes (LW). Unfortunately I seconded it before leading it subsequently. I'm astonished that LW is still news.

In reply to co1ps:


So am I. Perhaps you'd better read the news report.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2007#40783

In reply to co1ps: but my mate Nick on-sighted it in 1989


Nick White ? If so I think he O/Sed White Wall the same day.

I get the impression that LW is one of those routes that suits some and not others as is either thought of as desperate or OK.

Personally I think it is desperate and E6 but I have only failed on it.

In reply to Niall Grimes:

That is a very, very disturbing image Niall.