UKC

VERY IMPORTANT READ THIS !!
---------------------------


New Year and a new guardian of UKC Fit Club. I have taken over the voluntary duties from Simon as he has been initiating it every Sunday for nearly a year now. I'd like to take this chance to say thanks to him as this thread, which was his baby, has certainly helped me get off my bum and do something.

No reminders have been sent out this week due to the transition and please make any goals achieved stand out in bold etc so i can spot them easily. Don't be shy :0)

Please send any excuses or info to me via UKC from now on.

If you no longer want to take part let me know and you won't get e-mails from big brother.

It would appear there is not much hope of a full on UKC training diary in any form for a good few months yet so we shall have to stick with this for now.

UKC Fit Club is a substitute for the UKC training diary which was promised in 2006 and shamefully has yet to appear. Simon Lee has kindly linked a number of physical training articles here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 (this may be reproduced as an FAQ on the Articles page at some stage).

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

65 diary entries last week.

Many diarists were conspicious by their absence AGAIN last week...

Repeat contributors last week:

IainRUK
skivingbluecat
Andy Farnell
tobyfk
Serpico
Jenn
mbh
TimS
TRNovice
craigd
biscuit
andy reeve
Richard Hession
AJM
abarro81
trevf
SARS
Karl Woofinden
Paul748
Derbyshire Ben
rginns
catt
Reese
stuckonarock
Jack Geldard
Mr Justice Cocklecarrot
Jake Shaw
MattG
necromancer85
Burnsie
seankenny
Steve Ramsden

10 New starters/returners

greenanne
elephantspittle
stevewebster
justwannaclimb
Wibble Wibble
CJD
davidwright
Duncan Disorderly
fimm
mkean

21 Absentees last week:


PaulB
WEBBO
Tyler
jfw
jon barton
iain roberto
Burns
the colonel
kipper (the original one)
Si d H
ebygomm
loulou
Mark Stevenson
Tom Briggs
galpinos
tbertenshaw
Goonie
richardkirby
mattyork2
Tony Fryer
Mark Westerman

In reply to biscuit:
On behalf of andy reeve who e-mailed this in prior to going to font:

STG: Font trip starting... now!

M: Rest
T: Bench session, 3 sets 5 at 55kg, 1 set 8 inclined.
Bouldered at works - not just campussing for first time in 3
wks as knee about 90% better. No endurance at all, possibly due in part
to bench, but more likely due to purely campussing for so long.
W: Bit of yoga
T: Bit of yoga
F: Works session easy circuit to loosen up, yoga.
Leaving Sheff for Font.

Summary
Fine final week prior to trip.

In reply to biscuit:

I wasn't absent last week, I posted

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=277897&v=1#x4117868

In reply to biscuit:
Ill all week. Can't believe how good the weather is today.

In reply to ebygomm:

Oh what a good start i've got off to.

I went through it twice and everything.

Sorry.

In reply to biscuit:

Token entry as the last couple of weeks have been disrupted by skiing + illness

Goals for 2008

LTG - F8a
MTG - V8 at least F7c on Siruana trip at easter
STG - V7 (Hopefully next time I get to the peak)

Objectives for the coming week - Recover climbing fitness and plenty of core + campusing

In reply to biscuit:

Constant routines

One gym session per week, focus mainly on antagonists and cardio although with a bit of weights thrown in every now and again

One preferably two board sessions per week, continue pushing myself there. If only one board session then some fingerboard training etc to supplment it on at least one day

Climbing as many weekends as possible - training instead if the weather sucks

Winter-time goals...... By my birthday (start of March) I would like to have:

Done trad when weather allows, aim to get more comfortable down at Swanage doing as many of the classic HVS/E1 routes as possible

Bouldered V4 and hopefully V5

Redpointed a number of (say 3) French 7as

Led WI5. Also led Scot V if I've made it to Scotland in the winter.

Got myself in a good position for a trip to Siurana mid-March with the optimistic goal of having a crack at a 7a+ R/P

M: Lazy lazy day
T: Wyndcliffe. It rained. Got spanked on an easy route. Didn't like it. Went home. I'll go back again once the cliff is drier and the weather less dreary.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Good fingerboard session. Did some weighted pullups, can do 4-5 with 20lb extra at the moment. Did some good deadhangs too, 5 fingers (3&2) open hand on the bottom hold on the rock rings.

Still deliberating a run later, but the work I've got to do is looming so I might have to do that insead.

A slow week. Hopefully now life is back on track again after the hectic period of Christmas/New Year I'll be able to start pushing the pace up a bit to build on the progress I made at the end of last year and to drop off any Christmas weight gains.

AJM

In reply to biscuit:

MTG: complete F7c'ish project bolted during the summer
LTG: F8a or 5.13 redpoint

M. <hotel with family>football with son
T. some stretching
W. stretching; good session on home wall working project-specific moves and deadhangs, some weighted
T.
F.
S. huge day: F6c warm-up; got on MTG project and at last redpointed the first ascent (*) then repeated F7a+ put up a few weekends ago.
S.

New STG is to identify a STG/ MTG ...


* various self-congratulatory puff and pics posted here: http://tinyurl.com/36rlxa

Back training for 2008, Didn't gain any weight over Christmas in Australia, so iam pleased with myself.

Goals for March.

Running 60km a week.
Regain strength (solid on F7a) Aim to go to Climbing wall 4 times a week.
Get up to Scotland.

M. Swim 2km
T. Nothing, (flying back to UK from OZ)
W. Nothing,
T. Nothing (Jetlagged)
F. Fingerboard
S. Fingerboard Ran 6km (219meters) 34.34secs
S. Ran 6km (219meters) 32.20secs

Weight: 60.3kg
Total Runing Distance: 12km

In reply to IanJackson:

STG (by April 15th):
boulder font 7a
lead scottish IV

MTG (end of year)
Onsight 15 E1's
Onsight E3
Alpine D/D+ on ice/mixed route, TD on rock

In reply to MattG:

Ah yes, and the training

M-T: rest, ill
W: Alladins couloir with a couple of mates, stormy weather
Th: walked up to Ben Nevis after gondola cock up
F: Sledging
S: 30 shoulder rotations each side
S: bouldering RHS, nearly did the 7a, plus a few warm up problems. Should get it next session down there.

In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for taking over the duties Biscuit.

STG:
Boulder F7a+ (before end of Feb), Get surfing fit for Barbados trip in March; Do 10 routes above Fr6c in one session indoors before end of March.

LTG (2008):
Boulder 7b, Redpoint 7b+, Trad E4/E5, Surfing fit for two trips next year (Barbados and Indo).

Current weight: 12 st 6lbs
Fighting/Target Weight: 12 st.

S - Rest
M - 45 Minute Run (am); Bouldering on wall - marked improvement.
T - Hungover
W - Routes at Awesome in Stockport - Did 8 routes above 6a+ in spite of a cold and still feeling rough from New Years eve.
T - Worked and Rest
F - 45 Minute Run (am); Bouldering on wall - great session, felt MUCH stronger
S - Routes at Awesome in Stockport - Did 11 routes above 6a+ and felt fitter than Thursday

A great week in spite of drinking too much on NYE and getting a cold. A real breakthrough on the wall on Friday when I suddenly felt much, much stronger.

Today was a bonus because I missed my flight to the US this morning so got a 25 mile bike ride in this afternoon - result!

Off to the US with work for 4 days tomorrow so this week will be patchy as I'll be knackered.

In reply to biscuit: Put this off for a longtime, so here goes.

LTG 200 routes this year 2008
STG Loose 0.5 stone by Feb

S Edale Horseshoe 17miles
M Rest
T Rest
W Diving Stoney Cove
T 3 mile run
F Rest
S Climbing Rock City and 3 mile run
S Swim 800m and cycle 18km

In reply to biscuit: congratulations on getting the job - i'll take the opportunity of new management to express my intentions

obviously as the form is to run monday to sunday i can't start this week but just you watch me next week, oh yes . . .

STG: just to establish a routine
MTG: 'hill fit', lose weight, leading head back after layoff
LTG: VS trad, winter III, properly alpine/scottish winter fit

In reply to biscuit:

I posted last week too! I offered apologies for wibble Wibble though, as he's off being eaten by lions in Kenya at the mo.


STG: a certain V2 that's been eluding me, general reduction in wobbling, increase in strength and stability.
MTG: more trad routes, focusing on rock other than grit (will flesh this out next week), some more winter routes. To have lost 5kg by end April. Consolidate STG.
LTG: again, back to this next week.

This week:

Tu: short walk round Chapel Stile for a bit of fresh air
rest of week: illitty ill.

Must Do Better.

In reply to biscuit:

Cheers biscuit.

STG (3 months):
-Cycle 10 miles in 38 minutes
-Get weight down to 14 1/2 stone


MTG (2008)
-Get back to leading E1 regularly, and the odd E2.
-Cycle 10 miles in 32 minutes
-Maintain weight around 14 1/2 stone

LTG:
-Lead E3 regularly, the odd E4, and at least one E5
-Cycle 10 miles in sub 30 minutes



M: Nada
T: 30 mins heavy bag work
W: Nada
T: 30 mins heavy bag work
F: Nada
S: 30 mins very light heavy bag work
S: 30 mins heavy bag work

Hope to get out on the bike again next week, and plan to introduce a routine of daily push ups, chins and sit ups.

Also, going to the wall tomorrow to gauge how pants I currently am.

In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit,

Goals: Austrian Oak , Rumble in Jungle and Hasse route in 2008 and sub 1.35 in Taunton Half Marathon in May and Abissi at Arco in June.

M. 8 mile run
T. Rock rings 20 mins
W. Foundry Wave bouldering
T. Foundry Wave bouldering and threw myself at 2 routes
F.
S. 10 mile run
S. Bouldering at Stanage - great day

In reply to biscuit: Training:

Aims:

Got a trip booked to Mello in italy, going to do some big wall trad and sport routes, and loads of bouldering!

The route i really want to do, but it is so out of my league is there! 8A on the Sasso Di Remenno boulder, I want to have another crack at the crux on it!

There is also a tasty looking 7b+ on some just over vertical rock in the woods, a nice line of sloping crimps, just looks like long moves on poor holds for the crux.

Not sure how to train for this, as i have a 45 degree board. Shall i just learn to do big moves on shit holds on there?

This week has been a mixed bag.

Monday: Did a session in the woodie, felt pretty strong, was knocking of the 7A problems with ease, i guess this is from knowing the problems so well?
Tuesday: Drove up north to the Cairngorms in the pursuit of some winter climbing...
Wednesday: Walked into a shit storm in Coire An Lochain, suppose i got some hill fitness, didn't feel tired from the walking or the cold.
Thursday: Didn't bother getting out on the hill, we came home early. Wasted trip.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: 5 Mile Run & session on the board. Started work on what the crux seemed like on the 8A in mello. Linked the first half of it pretty easily. Just the nails part to get down now
Sunday: Finally got out on the Gritstone! Did about ten routes, about 4 leads, all crack climbs!
Took a lead fall, swore a lot. Started back up on it, manned it!




What i'd like to be doing is something like this though.

Monday - Session on the woodie, working some hard problems, pulling some small holds and doing stamina.
Tuesday - Weight session, Core exercises, go running.
Wednesday - After work leading session, get comfortable on 7a.
Thursday - Rest
Friday - After working leading, redpoint some harder stuff. Finish off with some running.
Saturday - Session on the woodie, doing circuits of font 7a for 2 minutes, getting plenty of stamina in.
Sunday - Rest day - Or gritstone day.



Ps. Can i have my surname spelt right in the list of contributers !! :]

In reply to biscuit:
M: Brimham, damp but good
T: Theraband, rain, illness
W: Ill
T: Poor Weather, Leeds wall
F: Rest
S: Slipstones (cold and v windy) THe Cliff (less cold slightly less windy)
S: Brimham - amazing weather despite a couple of showers.

In reply to biscuit:

Oi Biscuit - I posted last week as well, but I'll let you off this time!

LTG: E4 onsight, sub 5 min mile
STG: Daylight Robbery, sub fours in Edale Skyline

M: Leeds Wall - routes
T: 10 mile walk with dog
W: Bouldering Swindon wall
T: Handicap race at work - I won!
F: 5 mile run
S: Routes Leeds wall
S: Bouldering Burbage North - slap-tastic!!!

Cheers
mark

In reply to biscuit:
STG: Do as much cardio and climbing as poss before an op in about a month. Gain some stamina.
LTG: Get up some 'ard stuff.

Monday: Errr nothing much. Drinking... Walked up a BIG hill at midnight with red wine in an Evian bottle... Does this count?
Tuesday: Olympic standard vomiting/ feeling sorry for myself.
Wednesday: Bouldering session at Awesome. About 2 hours.
Thursday: Cycled to work and back (31 miles)
Friday: Cycled 31 miles.
Saturday: Rest day.
Sunday: 2 hours bouldering at the Works.

Not as much cardio done as id hoped this week but better than nothing. Ive been an angel and had NO sweets or biscuits at work.
Plan for next week ====> Cycle to work 3 times (93 miles), cycle to MCC once (26 miles), three wall sessions.

In reply to biscuit:
M = MTB around delamere
T = rest
W = MTB then Bouldering
T = Bouldering then martial arts
F = rest
S = climbing
S = rest

In reply to biscuit:
Sorry, was away over christmas and this is my first week back at home.

STG: get my toe better so I can climb again

I went out for the first time today - couldnt climb i nmy rockshoes but can now stand on my toes in my big boots. Grit bouldering in big boots is difficult though

LTG: E2 by April. Nothing more to day on that one yet.

The only training Ive done since my last post (week 39) is two fingerboard sessions - on wednesday and thursday this week - plus a few shortish walks. Much to my surprise though, havent lost fingerboard strength or gained flab in the last 3 weeks, god knows how.
Should be back doing this properly again next week.

Cheers,
Si

In reply to biscuit:

Thanks Simon for all of your work! Fit club really has made a difference in my training.

Thanks also biscuit for taking over

---------------

STG: Regain strength after a lay-off
MTG: Font 7b

M - Ill
T - Ill
W - Ill
T - Fingeboard session: hangs, lock-offs, leg lifts; Shoulder exercises: internal / external rotations, rows and scaptions with medium resistance band and stretching.
F - Rest
Sa - 4 hours bouldering at the Castle up to UK 6a. Felt tired at start, but was back on form by the end.
Su - 3 hours bouldering at the Castle up to UK 6a. Tired from previous day and very disillusioned with the set problems. Tacked on a few routes at the end to break up the boredom.

Week started out with having the world's worst flu (despite getting a flu shot!), but ended up OK. I had planned to get outdoors over the Christmas break but my flu saw an end to that. On the positive side, I feel that I got a significant proportion of my pre-illness strength back and shoulder pain seems to have pretty much disappeared (ya!).

This week I am planning to start campusing again (if for no other reason than the fact that I hate the problem setting at the Castle) and possibly re-introduce running (provided I don't get ill again!).

In reply to biscuit:

Simon, Thanks for all the hard work and biscuit, well done for taking up the gauntlet.

Revised goals for 2008

Short-term goals

Single pitch E2 onsight (most likely on slate, Psychotherapy/Pull My Daisy/Sterling Silver/German Schoolgirl and other are candidates)

Mountain multi-pitch HVS (need to think of some options here)

Get some more UK V4s and V5s (The Edge Problem, Dog Shooter, Toe Dragon, Conan the Librarian, etc. etc.)

Get back into regular training after illnesses

Medium-term goals

E3 onsight (again most likely slate Goose Creature/CTD are candidates)

E1 MP (I have a binding agreement about Cemetery Gates)

E1 single pitch on something other than slate

Climb V6 in the UK and V5 in Bishop

Target strengthening the first two fingers of my right hand to compensate for lack of tendon in the third (fingerboard stuff mostly)

Ill earlier in the week (as per the previous week) and now still getting over the ‘flu and very fatigued

M – ill
T – ill
W – ill
Th – probably the most desultory attempt at a fingerboard session ever recorded :-o
F – rest (after what?)
S – 4 hours bouldering at The Castle – very tired and weak, but kept going
Su – 2 hours bouldering and 1 hour on what passes for routes at The Castle, about the most notable thing being managing to climb through tiredness / lack of energy

STG: By end of week
- Do 3 lots of 180 press-ups on separate days in 6 sets of 30
- Start Pull-up sessions
- Stretch daily

MTG: By end of January
- Climb first winter route
- O/S Sport 6b indoors
- Aim to run daily

LTG: By end of 2008
- Lead E1 O/S and Headpoint E3 on gritstone
- Consolidate at VS 5b on all rock types (single and multi-pitch)
- O/S Sport 6C
- Boulder V3

Monday – 100 press-ups
Tuesday – None
Wednesday – 20 mins of dead hangs
Thursday – 20 mins of dead hangs
Friday – 20 mins of dead hangs
Saturday – None
Sunday – 50 chinnups

A truly terrible start but I have a list of excuses as long as your arm, which I wont list here.

In reply to biscuit: Goals for 2007: Redpoint F8a+, Boulder Font 7B+.

Thurs - 3 hrs of bouldering mileage at Awesome Liverpool, upto V6/7
Sun - NWF Warrington - 1 hr bouldering, did a V7 I'd failed on last week. 5 routes, worked a 7c, did it in 2 overlapping halves with a bit of a rest. Aim to get it in one next time.

I will get back training on the 45 board this coming week with the aim of improving both strength (3-4 move problems) and power stamina (15-20 move circuits). No more faffing around bouldering at Awesome, time to put in the hours and really improve.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell: Obviously I meant goals for 2008... D'oh.

Andy F

In reply to biscuit:

Goals:

1) Bouldering: some 7b+ and 7c problems - plenty in mind on Yorkshire and Peak Grit.
2) Unassisted 1 arm pull up on 20mm edge.
3) Bench Press: 8reps of bodyweight + 20% (ie. 84kgs) , 1 rep max of bodyweight + 50% (ie. 105kgs).

M: Rockcity bouldering, 30min run, press-ups 3x40. First indoor session since August '07! felt pretty weak, got tired quickly...
T: finger board session, 30min run, press-ups 3x40
W: Long bouldering session @ Rockcity. Felt much better/stronger, did a few problems I'd failed on on monday, etc. flashed one F7b route as well.
T: rest - stretching + press-ups 3x40
F: Rockcity bouldering. Good session again.
S: -
S: Almscliff visit. Warmed up slowly, felt pretty good, then did my current main project thus a tick towards goal 1. (sorry biscuit, don't know how to embolden). Brilliant day!

New year psyche gave rise to a great week. Felt way stronger at The Cliff compared to last week thanks to the inddor sessions. Need more of the same next week.

Still no bench sessions sadly - my benching mate has now moved to London and I think the bench has gone with, bummer. So will sack the benching goals in the mean time but will keep doing press-ups a few times a week, primarily to keep my elbows free of injury - seems to be working so far...

P.S. abarro81 and andy reeve are excused 'cos they're in font.

In reply to biscuit:

2 weeks enforced indulgence later... god it was hell.

MTG: Redpoint Cairn at Harpur Hill if it ever stops raining.

M to F: Nowt. Still feeling like kak from 5 nights "on".
S: 8x 30move 6a+ circuits followed by routage.
S: 8x 30move 6a+ circuits.

Feel ill, weak and out of shape. Hurrah!

In reply to tobyfk:


Nice one Toby! looks like a pretty good route.

In reply to tobyfk:

Well done Toby, 8a is but one full grade away.

In reply to biscuit:

STG: Maintain fitness and build up climbing strength. Training for Tiggar Tor 10 mile fell race on 27th January (my first fell race – eep!).
MTG: Improve flexibility
(V!)LTG: Lead E1

M: Completed my first multi pitch route in the Llanberis Pass. Only a Diff but a fantastic experience nonetheless. Would have been a solo but the appalling conditions meant I was actually pretty relieved when I was thrown a rope.
T: Another first - completed my first sport routes on slate, minus my usual leading ‘wobbles’.
W: Rest
T: 45 min steady road run. Good set of stretches, sit ups and pull ups.
F: 2 hour session at the Works. Ticked off a fair few more problems on the blue and green circuits.
S: 8 mile strenuous fell run.
S: Rest.

Diet is now back on track, save for a pizza, a plate of greasy noodles and a bottle of Pinot Grigio - notably supped in a lady-like fashion over a couple of days, rather than downed binge drinker style. I look and feel better for it too.

By next week, I want to come up with some more quantifiable targets to chart my climbing progress in the short term. Also set a time target for this fell race. Need to get back to yoga too (yawn).

In reply to Mark Westerman:


well not too bad. Only 2 failures on my first week - so far

In reply to biscuit:


umm, 3 so far

Anyway, 'tis always good to have room for improvement

STG: Try and consolidate on 7c, low start to Zaff Skoczylas, Shit at Higgar, West Side Story, The Storm

MTG: Work on my trad grades. Work towards E6 ground up (Pulsar direct, Linkline at Higgar, and Mothers pride at Millstone) and Balance it is at Burbage E7 headpoint

LTG: Sport 8B/+ (42 at The Cornice) (Revelations) (Mecca), Boulder: Bens roof, powerband, stamina band

M. Day off
T. 20 mins on Nordic Track - 3.28 miles
w. 2 1/4 hours at The Works
Th. 22 mins on Nordic rack - 4 miles
F. 2 hours at The Works
s. Day off - sons 6th birthday party
s. 4 hours at Plantation - great conditions. flashed lots of problems up to V6. Did Satin and full green traverse 2nd go at end of session.

Decided to start training on Nordic track (cross country ski machine) rather than running to protect my knees. Aiming to do 20 miles a week.

In reply to biscuit:
i wasn't absent last week.i posted under steve webster but signed it webbo.
m.bouldering rockcity.
t.swiss ball,weights
w.bike 3hrs 20 mins 55 miles windy/cold
th.bouldering rockcity.good session did one of my projects
f.swiss ball,weights.walk with the missus.bike 1 hr turbo session.
sat bouldering oaklands.did a problem i couldn't do on my last visit.
sun.visit mother.stopped off and did a short session at woodhousescar.

In reply to biscuit:

M: 01:55:00, 10.5 mile run, 596 m ascent, Skye, deserted villages run.
T: 2:17:03, 8.1 mile run, 973m ascent, Corbett, Sguman Coinntich, from Kilkillan.
w: 02:29:00, 7.5 mile run, 1069m ascent, 2 munros Moruisg and Sgur nan Ceannaichean.
T: 3:48:00, 13.89 mile run, 1551m ascent, 2 munros, Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a Chaorachain,
F: 2:49:00, 10.35 mile run, 1000m ascent, Munro Maol Chean-Dearg from Coulags, sprained ankle on descent.
S: Rest day
S: 6.6 mile trail run Beddgelert forest.

In reply to biscuit:

Hello, I'm new to posting but hoping to keep posting each week from this point onwards.

Short Term Goals:

Indoor climbing routes 1 session per week
Indoor bouldering, 1 session per week
2 mile powerwalk lunchtime at work
Knee raises and pullups daily when not climbing or bouldering.
Out at weekends if weather and children permit.


Long Term Goals:

Lose a stone in weight over the next 6 months or so
Climb 6c+ indoors by the end of the year (currently consistant with 6a+ and occasional 6b+)
Lead VS consistantly (although that is more to do with my head than my fitness levels) by September
Improved finger strength via bouldering is fantastic, but need to improve stamina for routes.

M: Pub Crawl (twas NYE afterall)
T: Recover from evenings previous session (See Mon)
W: 2 mile power walk during lunch break, 40 knee raises on door gym, 10 pull ups.
T: same as Wed
F: Indoor climbing and bouldering session, 4 hours total.
S: Rest day
S: hour bouldering session.

Current weight 10st 13lb
Targeted weight 9st 13lb

In reply to biscuit:
Goals: Climb up to F6c/7a, lead English E2. Get strong again.

M: Drove back from Scotland to Yorkshire
T: From Yorkshire to London.
W: Weights session at home.
T: Nothing
F: Very early night
S: Nothing.
S: ARC session at the Westway, 2x30 mins.

In reply to biscuit:
STG to improve overall fitness and strength.join an induction class at the nearby indoor wall which i hope to do at the beguinning of feb.
LTG to be climbing outside by the summer.
mon. polished of all left over christmas food i could find.
tues.1 hour walk with the dog and 10 mins on the stepper also using weights.
wed twenty mins on stepper in two ten min bursts.
thurs. 1 hour walk with dog.
fri. two hour walk with dog.
sat.
sun.
have also been working all over the holiday period.how do people find the time to do so much exercise.
will do better next week.

In reply to biscuit:
M walked from Leith to Edinburgh
T walked from Edinburgh to Leith
W -
Th Swam 112 lenghts thats 2800m
F-
Sa climbing for 4 hours
Su Walking to get the supermarket shop

In reply to greenanne:

previous week nothing...

M - Rest
T - Rings - 1st session back, started slow, finished well
W - Rest
T - Rings - Best Session Yet
F - Rest
S - Works - Finger ached for a short period - now chalking this down to scar tissue
S - Rest

Aims for 2008: Hopefully suffer from less time off due to injury, get back to where I was a year ago, get fit in time for easter and to end a long time goal in sportclimbing.

In reply to Simon Lee and Steve Ramsden:


Thanks very much. Unfortunately the ex-MTG was self-graded and so is rather suspect. It just seemed quite a lot harder than the handful of F7b+'s I have been on. We have the (strong/ French) Petzl rep in the vicinity from next week - he will be pointed at it.

In reply to biscuit:

STG:

1. 5-a-day fruit/veg on at least 5 days of the week
2. Takeaway on one day only
3. Alcohol on one day only
4. 30 mins of exercise (minimum) on at least 5 days of the week

This week:

1, 2 and 3 all achieved. 4 not quite.

M -
T - 1 hour cycle (only 30 mins work)
W -
T - 1 hour cycle (only 30 mins work)
F -
S - Weights / skipping / chin-ups - 40 mins total
S - 4 hour hike, 7 mile route. Fairholmes up to Back Tor, along Derwent Edge, bit of bouldering at Dovestone, back down the long way round. Bright sunshine, very breezy! Discovered a FANTASTIC MTB downhill path, Hay Meadows or something? Will be going back with bike! (only where allowed).

Cheers

just wanna climb

PS note all exercise thus far is FREE! I am so tight

In reply to biscuit: Slightly revised 2008 Goals now don't include the indoor traverse that I had a short lived passion for! I have seen the light.

MTG: Alpine North Face this winter. Big wall free climbing in May.
LTG: Gogarth New route late summer.

Ideas: Increase overall general fitness and leg strength for Alpine/big wall climbing.

Keep (or get back after the winter) Trad fitness ready for Gogarth season.

Last week: Ice climbing in France.
Sunday: Trad climbing on the Lleyn - totally pumped stupid. Also the best day climbing for several months.

This week - hopefully some running and 2 more trad routes outside, 2 wall sessions and several weights sessions targeting the legs.

Jack

In reply to biscuit: Simon Lee: Goals - short term (dec/jan)devise a new training plan, re-establish leading and lead 6a, boulder v3 indoors, medium term (March 08) lead 6a+ indoors, boulder v4 indoors, boulder 6a outdoors by completing my project - 'verdigris 6a' at Brownstones and the pond traverse 5c Brownstones, long term (June 08) lead 6b indoors, HVS outdoors, top rope E3 cleanly

m - nothing - New Years Eve
t - nothing - new years day!
w - nowt (lazy)
t - Bouldering at Broughton - nailed my first Broughton 5c which is also an acheivement!
f - nowt
s - nowt
s - Climbing at Preston - led the 6a up the main overhang completing my Short term goal of re-establishing leading and leading 6a! so I'm well pleased! It felt quite aesy too but it's all in the head with me..

In reply to biscuit:

Still geting back into routines after the Xmass lay off. In both running and climbing I am in an endurance background phase

M rest
T rest
W rest
T 3.25 mile run 80m ascent 19:21, climbing at the castle warm up 11x5a 8x5b 1x5c dead hangs sloping pockets 1x8sec 1x4sec, 2nd campus rungs 1x6sec campus board large holds 1x6 rungs core 1x20 push ups 1x40 sit ups 1x30 backraises 60sec plank.
F 4.5 miles running slow social run.
S climbing at the castle warm up. 9x5a 14x5b 1x5c deadhangs slopping pockects 2x 8sec 1x 4sec, 2nd campus rung 1x8sec, campus 1x6rungs. core 2x20 push ups 1x40 sit ups 1x10 hanging leg raises
S 24 miles steady 3:02:56 hit wall after ~16 miles last 3 miles in 30 mins

weak and slow after xmass but base is much better than in september.

In reply to biscuit:

STG - Hang small edges on the Moon board. Fr7b at the wall.
MTG (to Easter) - Font 7b/+ (Deliverance hopefully) by end of grit season. E1.
M-LTG (to end 2008) Fr 7b/+. E2. Complete LAMM. London Duathlon sub 1:45.

M - Cycle 14km.
T - Rest.
W - Castle - Bouldering. Quite tired but managed a 6b.
T - Castle - Routes. Ad-hoc sess on the Moonboard, getting quite close to hanging the 2nd smallest edges without assistance.
F - Rest.
S - Rest.
S - Castle - Bouldering. Really good session, again managed a 6b in short order and onsighted 6a. Excellent new set on the panels. Keep up the good work Castle setters!

Still dealing with a bit of a chest infection but definitely picking up and getting energy back. Still laying off any cardio though. Should be back on the bike this coming week.

In reply to biscuit:

M Hillwalking
Tu Short low level but rough walk
W Shortish hill walk
Th Rest day
F not feeling well, nothing
Sa feeling a bit better but not 100%, still nothing
Su feeling fine but decided/was persuaded not to do anything

Humpf, not very impressive.

In reply to tobyfk: We have the (strong/ French) Petzl rep in the vicinity from next week - he will be pointed at it


Dont take his word as gospel (or do if you are an atheist) - allegedly Marc Le Menestral via some wierd hybrid starting up Weedkiller stopped on the crux of Sardine and said 'how can anyone fall off zis? - the holds are soo big' continuing on to the top.

In reply to biscuit:
Ok first time back since xmas and flu. Looking forward to some hard work this year and big achievements hopefully. Listing goals below but these belong on my profile so might not always list each week.

STG - Till Easter 2008

4 x br6c's, (0)

50 x br6b+'s, (17)

100 x br6b's, (44)

151 x br6a+'s (56)

72 x br6a's(repeat)

The Little One (f7b+)

The Big One (f7c+)

1 font 7b

10 font 7's

1-4-7


MTG - Till September 2008

10 x f8's

front lever

LTG - (2008)

4 x br6c+'s (0)

20 x br6c's, (0)

196 x br 6b+'s (17)

The Burley One (f8a)

1 x f8a+

Weight 65.8KG
M - FLU
T - FLU
W - FLU
T - FLU
F - FLU
S - MCC really crap session still weak,
S - REST



Cheers
Tim

In reply to biscuit: Hi there!

Week 40 - Ill all week, drove to Chamonix on Sunday.

Week 41
M - Skiing
T - Skiing
W - Cherie Couloir, Mont Blanc du Tacul
T - rest
F - rest
S - 2+hrs walk to a Spanish hillfort
S - travelling

Week 41
M - Redpoint Stone Roses 7b at Echo Valley
T - Hangover... failed on a 6c at Gandia then gave up...
W - Worked Magic Flute 7b on Bernia Rdige
T - traveling
F - traveling
S - nowt
S - nil

I'll make sure that I post my full 2008 goals next week.

BTW should this thread not be reset and now be back at WEEK ONE for 2008?

In reply to biscuit:


Short Term Goals: Rock attrocity, Peak for climbing trip in Feb

Long Term: Power endurance, finger strength, Lou Ferrino, Brad Pitt, Bus Stop

Mon: Clifftop, Cratcliff, Robin Hoods - Good day out, a few 7a's
Tues: Rest
Weds: Limestone, a few 7b's & 7a's
Thurs: Plantation, it snowed, did some chin ups then worked Bradd Pitt
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest (worked all day)
Sun: (worked all day) then Fingerboard

In reply to biscuit:

Terrible week

Wed - skiing at Mt Naeba
Thur - skiing
Fri - skiing
Sat - fingerboard with added weights (good session)
Sun - fingerboard with added weights (another good session)

Not too much climbing, but great fun with a bunch of cool people.

Still not sure about my goals.

In reply to biscuit:

Cheers for taking over Biscuit. Apologies for missed week, more due to lack of interent than embarresment over inactivity. Managed a routes session at MCC and a boulder session at BUK over the festive period but not much else. Not totally sorted my goals for 2008 yet.

STG: Orange and yellow problem at wall.

M:
T:
W:
T:
F: Bouldering at the wall
S: Antagonistic Weights and 30 mins running on the machine
S: Bouldering at the wall, progress made.

Now back in Toronto, over the jet lag/cold etc. and keen to get to it.

In reply to biscuit:

Can I join please!?

STG - Get back to full fitness after foot operation - aim to be running, cycling by end of Jan.
MTG
- Climbing at least twice a week either indoors or outdoors
- aerobic exercise at least twice a week.

LTG - Get back to leading E1, Sport - F6C, Sub 1hour 10km run

Current weight - 9.9 Target weight - 8.10

M - Long beach walk
T - Long walk slate quarries
W - Nothing
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Bought new mountain bike!
S - Nothing

In reply to biscuit:

A good week for me :

M - swim 8x200m
T - run 7.45m, hilly (130m ascent), 64:45
W - swim 9x200m, run 3.14m 23:28
Th-nothing
Fr- run 3m 26m crap, swim 1600m
Sa - run 7.65m hilly, 65:06
Su - run 3m flat, 22:53

plus a fair bit of stretching.

and Still not injured.

In reply to biscuit:

STG (end Jan 08):
1. Climb F7b
2. Hang smallest edge on Moon fingerboard for 10 secs
3. Get on 45-degree board (get 3 problems I am working on)

MTG (June 08)
1. Back working on F7c (2 routes by end of summer)
2. Do finger board session + 10kg
3. 6c boulder problems (2 slab, 2 steep (45 degree, 2 other)

LTG (2 years+)
1. F8a
2. West side story @ burbage or font 7c
3. Front lever
4. Hang three finger open 1 armed from medium edge
5. Campus 1-5-9

Last week:

Did Nothing

M: Skiing in Austria and getting pissed

T: Rest and again getting pissed.

W: Skiing

Th: Skiing

F: Skiing

Sa: Driving back from Austria

Su: Unpacking and shopping

Next week: Back to training, see where I am at feel really unfit after abusing my body for 2 weeks

In reply to biscuit:

Goals were rumble in the jungle and 1-4-7 on smallish rungs on campus board

Mon: Campus and bouldering session, felt pretty good touched 7th rung on smallish rungs
Tues: Dips (3X40 4 mins rest)and weights at home.
Wed: Cycled to work (25 miles round trip)
Thurs: Rest...ill again, lots of mucus and coughing
Fri: Bouldering and campus session Good again, touched 7th rung on 1-4-7 attempt, did 1-4-7 several times on larger rungs
Sat: Rest
Sun: Drove nearly all the way to the peaks, engine finally gave up the ghost and exploded while doing 90. RAC came but wouldn't tow me as the new tax disc wasn't in the car. Had to abandon the beast in Donnington services...a tearful farewell. Spent 50 quid and got the train home to London...Train also broke down.

Had reasonable session at the wall though so not all bad.

New goals: get a loan and buy a new car...start bombing campain against the RAC

In reply to biscuit:

guess i'd better post myself or i'll have to tell myself off.

S- Ill
M- Ill
T- Ill
W- Fingerboard session
T- Routes at Keswick
F- Ill again
S- Ill

Wed + Thurs were first training sessions since 17th Dec due to a planned rest week and then illness.

Fingerboard session was strangely really good. Actually got to the stage where i think i need to add weight on all holds apart from 2 finger pockets. Rest is obviously a good thing.

Routes session was good on vertical routes ( up to brit tech 6a ) but anything overhanging i just peeled off. I wasn't pumped but i don't think my fingers had recovered. They just couldn't hold onto overhanging holds.

Now feeling fully better so i can get on with it.

In reply to biscuit:

Goals (weather dependant):
Be in good shape for outdoor winter goal (VII)
Be hill fit for any spur of the moment big hill days.
Work on the indoor Goal (F7a Redpoint)
Redpoint D7 Drytool route I worked last autumn.

M Nothing
T Hogmanay Hangover
W Nothing
T Nothing
F Failed Winter route – Big dog walk instead
S Nothing
S Winter Route – 9 hours on the hill

Hmmm my training is kind of in limbo just now. Winter climbing full time should take care of the first two. Waiting in today for timber to arrive for my woody which should take care of the second two goals plus try and get to the indoor wall at least once a week so i don't loose too much stamina.

In reply to biscuit:


MTG: Before end of January.
- Redpoint fr7b in mallorca this January.
- Complete the 20 minute fingerboard workout 'advanced' at 8a.nu.


LTG: Before end of 2008.
- Redpoint 7b+ in Val di Mello this April.
- Redpoint fr8a.

Been trying to really get some route mileage in for next weeks trip to mallorca.

Monday - Bouldering at Cratcliff on Hueco wall working traverse problem. Did not finish. Quitea a lot to drink, but it was New Years!
Tuesday - Hung Over. Walking in the Peak and monopoly
Wednesday - Bouldering at the Matrix wall Sheffield.
Thursday - Short run. Foundry Routes. Dissapointed with first realisation at poor route fitness. Fell of a 6b+, but onsighted one as well.
Friday - Short Run. Foundry routes. 10 routes. Onisghted another 6b+ but got pumped on a 6b and sat on the rope! Good mileage.
Saturday - HorseShoe quarry. Onsighted 6b+ which I was quite pleased about despite appauling performance earlier this week.
Sunday - Short run

No Post next week - In Mallorca.

In reply to biscuit:

Cheers for the reminder...

Crap week, ill and hungover mostly.

M: Routes Costa Blanca - Redpoint 7b with Mark. Ace! Finally got something tricky done, only climbed 2 1/2 days so not too bad really.
T: Turn 34 and see in 2008 - Hungover! Return to UK
W: Work - rest unpack.
T: Ace Studio session - Don't help the climbing but was fun.
F: Nowt
S: Come down with sickness lurgy again!!
S: Stay in bed watching Hard XS with lurgy looking at the perfect grit day cursing and spitting....Arse!

All in all a crap week, was nice to do another 7b (was a nice route too) but as far as training goes it was pretty dismal.

Will look at the goals this week as off to Font for Easter so should really aim to train specifically for this for the next couple of months, tricky really as don't want to loose sight of my mid term and long term goals tho.

In reply to biscuit:

Ok, back on board - ta for reminder. Important to support our new Fit Club host and stay on track.

Xmas/New year period - constantly plagued by cold....it's still loitering!

2008 Goals.

E6 - o/sight.
8a+ .... more for the routes than the grade. Groove, Supercool, Urgent Action.
8a in a day (Obviously in Spain or France)
Maintain Gogarth Main Cliff Campaign.
On sight more 7c's.
Put demon's to rest - get back on GBH.
Oh, I forgot a major one - give up tabs.


It should perhaps be a goal in itself to juggle trad/sport and not get too sucked into either.

Training needs a shakeup after a consolidated 3 years/lifetime of predominantly routes at the wall. Further gains will only come through increasing power & power/endurance.
Exchanging 3 weekly visits to the wall doing routes to a 6 week blast of bouldering/circuits/campus sessions supplemented by 1 routes session/week & at least 1 weights (pushing) session to keep injury free. Commencing this week.

Last week went like this;

M Warm up's, 7b o/s, 2 x 7b+ fell off last moves- La Grotte, Nice area.
T Warm up's, 2 x 7b O/S's - Paul Memorial, Nice area.
W Warm up's. high 6's mileage & 7a+ o/s. Chataeuvert. Knackered from trip.
T Flight
F Gym - Weights
S Rest/Boozed
S Routes at wall

First part of trip - pleased to O/S a 7b+ @ this time of year.
Need to get outside more on nice days.

In reply to richard kirby:

STG: Lead WI6 in La Grave / Gavarnie this Jan / Feb and do something decent on the Ben in late Feb / early March.
MTG: Try a classic 'old skool' F8a in Buoux / Cimai. E.g. Reve du Papillon, Orange Mechanique over Easter.
LTG: I think I would like to try to increase my standard (i.e. grade) in a couple of disciplines. Most likely a headpoint (shock horror.. but not a dangerous one) and in winter climbing. F8b would seem unlikely without total dedication, as would increasingly my on-sight trad or sport level (the latter of which I improved very recently). It's now 5 years since my PB's in bouldering...

So...

Last week. Back into it after Christmas. Switched back from bouldering to routes and definitely feel stronger on 'the moves'. Intend to mix this up until mid-February with some bouldering and deadhanging, as otherwise I will get tired of the Main Wall at the Foundry. The deadhanging is designed to increase my finger strength, as this is my big weak link.

In reply to biscuit:

Erm.. twas a while ago and have since been learning first aid again but

Sunday Walking
Monday Yoga
Tuesday Walking
Wednesday Wasn't it new year sometime this week?
Thursday Walk
Friday built a snowman
Saturday Chilled

In reply to biscuit:

Bit rubbish over xmas and skiing this week.


STG: 40 min run by end of jan and V1 outdoors (if nice weather!)

Last week -

M: run 20
T: nowt
W: nowt
T: run 20
F: nowt
S: run 20

In reply to Neil Kazimierz Sheridan:

This is the thrad for last week - UKC Fit Club Week 43 is currently AWOL.

In reply to TRNovice: AWOL? were is 43! i cant stay up all night!

In reply to IanJackson:

I know - life is currently so meaningless

In reply to TRNovice:
Give me 10 mins :0)

Had a trauma with daughter - still on-going a bit but Mrs Biscuit has taken over.

In reply to biscuit: where is it! I need to tell everyone what a failure I am!

In reply to biscuit:
i need week 43 now!! i've wrote it out and everything

In reply to biscuit:
It is up now. Apologies again.

In reply to biscuit:

Don't worry, it's always like that when you start a new job