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Following on from the, what have you achieved this year thread (which I found very positive reading). I was wondering if it might be good to see some of you folks positive comments on which routes you've most enjoyed.
My best was lucky strike (pembroke), not because of the grade or any technical moves, but it just seemed to be a great adventure for me, finding it, getting to it, and doing it. Mainly as my mate was relying on me, it was quite late in the day and it all turned out really well. I have climbed much harder routes but not had as much fun.
I would love to hear some of your best days or routes.Cheers Phill.
My best was lucky strike (pembroke), not because of the grade or any technical moves, but it just seemed to be a great adventure for me, finding it, getting to it, and doing it. Mainly as my mate was relying on me, it was quite late in the day and it all turned out really well. I have climbed much harder routes but not had as much fun.
I would love to hear some of your best days or routes.Cheers Phill.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Angel Face, Beinn Eighe. Went in to the corrie with no expectations on what would be climbable, came out having climbed a route I've lusted over pretty much since I moved to Scotland 3 years ago. It ended up being my only Scottish mountain route this season, on pretty much the last possible weekend (mid-Nov). Ready for winter now!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Great north road, looks quite improbable for the grade from the bottom but really good well protected climbing with some nice thin bridging.
Great north road, looks quite improbable for the grade from the bottom but really good well protected climbing with some nice thin bridging.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Cougar. First did it twenty years ago and had forgotten just how good it is - awesome (also I think I appreciate quality more these days!). The top pitch is now very clean and probably the best on the route.
I also thoroughly enjoyed November and White Slab - almost up to Scottish standards.
Cougar. First did it twenty years ago and had forgotten just how good it is - awesome (also I think I appreciate quality more these days!). The top pitch is now very clean and probably the best on the route.
I also thoroughly enjoyed November and White Slab - almost up to Scottish standards.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I enjoyed Devils Grip at Yew cogar, not because of the route, but because it gave me a chance to catch up with my old climbing partner and good friend after nearly ten years.
I enjoyed Devils Grip at Yew cogar, not because of the route, but because it gave me a chance to catch up with my old climbing partner and good friend after nearly ten years.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Been quite a quiet year this year, but loved doing Cat on a Hot Tin Roof on Stac Pollaidh a few weeks ago in mid November! Perfect climbing for two pitches with an amazing view.....route doesn't get much traffic but it is at least as good as Jack the Ripper....
Been quite a quiet year this year, but loved doing Cat on a Hot Tin Roof on Stac Pollaidh a few weeks ago in mid November! Perfect climbing for two pitches with an amazing view.....route doesn't get much traffic but it is at least as good as Jack the Ripper....
In reply to Phill Mitch: Probably Myola at Pembroke, because it was my first REAL sea-cliff experience, and fell just the right side of masochistic pleasure in the circumstances. Not sure Teflonpete enjoyed it quite so much though...
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Tricky question, maybe Arcturus on Pavey Ark or possibly Safety Net at the Roaches the other week; every move was interesting and the route made me try hard.
Tricky question, maybe Arcturus on Pavey Ark or possibly Safety Net at the Roaches the other week; every move was interesting and the route made me try hard.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
PS If I'm allowed single pitches too, Dark Continent at Stanage and The Arete at Clifton (direct) were both fairly memorable for different reasons.... one technical and sustained, one super bold....
PS If I'm allowed single pitches too, Dark Continent at Stanage and The Arete at Clifton (direct) were both fairly memorable for different reasons.... one technical and sustained, one super bold....
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Arete Route on Tryfan, because it's my only route of the year, and it was great fun too!!
Arete Route on Tryfan, because it's my only route of the year, and it was great fun too!!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Nibelheim at Wintours. Probably my favourite all time route.
Also a short F5+ at Valldemosa in Mallorca. It's on massive jugs and overhangs right over a road. So much so that you're directly above cars passing oblivious beneath. Talk about roadside cragging!
Lyons Corner House Direct at Millstone was a cool route too.
Everything I've done this year has been special in one way or another. Been a really good year actually. Not over by a long way yet though!
Nibelheim at Wintours. Probably my favourite all time route.
Also a short F5+ at Valldemosa in Mallorca. It's on massive jugs and overhangs right over a road. So much so that you're directly above cars passing oblivious beneath. Talk about roadside cragging!
Lyons Corner House Direct at Millstone was a cool route too.
Everything I've done this year has been special in one way or another. Been a really good year actually. Not over by a long way yet though!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Sleeping Sickness Trowbarrow - not a bad route but it was the best (physically/mentally rather than quality) I've climbed for 10 years
Sleeping Sickness Trowbarrow - not a bad route but it was the best (physically/mentally rather than quality) I've climbed for 10 years
In reply to Phill Mitch: Easily my best year of climbing, some of the highlights were probably:
- Astral Stroll. What an amazing route. Beautiful, remote-feeling location (but only 15mins from the pub), peculiar and unlikely climbing, big feeling of adventure. Sea cliff climbing at its best.
- The Moon. Very similar to Astral Stroll, but more intimidating because of the grade, reputation for being loose, and exposure. Abbing down with a guy I'd never climbed with before to do what I expected to be the hardest route of my life was terrifying. Nice that it turned out to be about HVS.
- Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird. Stunning situations. Finishing the last pitch after the sun went down at about 11 o'clock at night, the lighthouse beam sweeping across the face.
- Archangel. Wanted to do it for years. Drove up to the crag on my own, warmed up, sauntered up to the bottom of the route, placed my trainers on the sharpest looking rock (does that count as padding out the landing?), cleaned my boots and got straight up to the break without a false start. Exactly the way I wanted to climb it.
- Astral Stroll. What an amazing route. Beautiful, remote-feeling location (but only 15mins from the pub), peculiar and unlikely climbing, big feeling of adventure. Sea cliff climbing at its best.
- The Moon. Very similar to Astral Stroll, but more intimidating because of the grade, reputation for being loose, and exposure. Abbing down with a guy I'd never climbed with before to do what I expected to be the hardest route of my life was terrifying. Nice that it turned out to be about HVS.
- Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird. Stunning situations. Finishing the last pitch after the sun went down at about 11 o'clock at night, the lighthouse beam sweeping across the face.
- Archangel. Wanted to do it for years. Drove up to the crag on my own, warmed up, sauntered up to the bottom of the route, placed my trainers on the sharpest looking rock (does that count as padding out the landing?), cleaned my boots and got straight up to the break without a false start. Exactly the way I wanted to climb it.
In reply to robertmichaeladams:
What a strange year - angelface in november!! Glad you enjoyed it, one of my favourites routes ever.
> (In reply to Phill Mitch) Angel Face, Beinn Eighe. Went in to the corrie with no expectations on what would be climbable, came out having climbed a route I've lusted over pretty much since I moved to Scotland 3 years ago. It ended up being my only Scottish mountain route this season, on pretty much the last possible weekend (mid-Nov). Ready for winter now!
What a strange year - angelface in november!! Glad you enjoyed it, one of my favourites routes ever.
In reply to Chad123:
In reply to Chad123:
Been a bit of a quiet year for me, too. I think most enjoyable route this year was one in the Sarcavalley, Pilastro Gabrielli on Mandrea - a must if you love steep bridging, **** classic.
In reply to Chad123:
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
>
> Been quite a quiet year this year, but loved doing Cat on a Hot Tin Roof on Stac Pollaidh a few weeks ago in mid November! Perfect climbing for two pitches with an amazing view.....route doesn't get much traffic but it is at least as good as Jack the Ripper....
>
> Been quite a quiet year this year, but loved doing Cat on a Hot Tin Roof on Stac Pollaidh a few weeks ago in mid November! Perfect climbing for two pitches with an amazing view.....route doesn't get much traffic but it is at least as good as Jack the Ripper....
Been a bit of a quiet year for me, too. I think most enjoyable route this year was one in the Sarcavalley, Pilastro Gabrielli on Mandrea - a must if you love steep bridging, **** classic.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I've probably had the best year I've ever had this year. The highlights have got to have been a weekend in Skye doing Cioch direct into arrow route with the amazing integrity to finish it off. Then camping at Niest point with some brilliant sea cliffs.
The most adventurous route I've climbed this year was Moonraker, with the down climb and then the sea level traverse to get to the start.
I have had some amazing weekends of climbing, all over Britain!
I've probably had the best year I've ever had this year. The highlights have got to have been a weekend in Skye doing Cioch direct into arrow route with the amazing integrity to finish it off. Then camping at Niest point with some brilliant sea cliffs.
The most adventurous route I've climbed this year was Moonraker, with the down climb and then the sea level traverse to get to the start.
I have had some amazing weekends of climbing, all over Britain!
In reply to RossT:
I forgot Tophet wall, the best HS I've ever climbed
I forgot Tophet wall, the best HS I've ever climbed
In reply to Phill Mitch: It has to be Amorican at Pembroke. A great route with Paul,a great mate of 35 years.The weather was stunning and so is the Pembroke environment. It just couln't get any better.
sjm
sjm
In reply to sjminfife: Bloody started raining as I was set to do that. I hope that it will be there for me next year though...
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Had a bit of a quiet year overall in terms of memorable routes, but Perposterous Tales at Pembroke stands out. So incredibly committing and adventurous for a three pitch route which is part of a popular climbing area. Reports from others make it sound like a horror show, so I think we got very lucky with conditions (it had been warm and dry for most of the preceding week).
Had a bit of a quiet year overall in terms of memorable routes, but Perposterous Tales at Pembroke stands out. So incredibly committing and adventurous for a three pitch route which is part of a popular climbing area. Reports from others make it sound like a horror show, so I think we got very lucky with conditions (it had been warm and dry for most of the preceding week).
In reply to Byronius Maximus: You wouldn't have done it when I was there!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Hard to pick just one. Think the two most memorable were Kirkus's Route in Cwm Silyn when a torrential rainstorm enveloped us at the third belay and I led out on a V Diff waterfall along with Benny in Swanage on the glorious first weekend in October, just a mental route.
Blue Sky (Saddle Head), Stone Cold Fever (Cheddar), Pinnochio (Ogmore), Right Angle (Gurnard's Head) and Little Brown Jug (Bosigran) were all brilliant too.
Kinberg (Pinfold, Llangollen) was the route that surprised me most with its quality.
Blue Sky (Saddle Head), Stone Cold Fever (Cheddar), Pinnochio (Ogmore), Right Angle (Gurnard's Head) and Little Brown Jug (Bosigran) were all brilliant too.
Kinberg (Pinfold, Llangollen) was the route that surprised me most with its quality.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Not such a great year for me, however:
On UK trad I enjoyed The Wrack on Bochlwyd Buttress, Fantan B (great day out) White Ghyll Eliminate and The Brush Off (Rivelin: done as a headpoint).
On UK sport I liked (and had to try hard on) both Scoobs (High Tor Right). I also enjoyed Insurrection (Trench Wall) because it was a joint 1st ascent (OK, I was 2nd to lead but we both did a fair bit of the prep).
Abroad I liked Prince of Darkness (long semi-sport), The Gambler (sport) and Dream of Wild Turkeys (trad-ish), all in the Red Rocks area.
Not such a great year for me, however:
On UK trad I enjoyed The Wrack on Bochlwyd Buttress, Fantan B (great day out) White Ghyll Eliminate and The Brush Off (Rivelin: done as a headpoint).
On UK sport I liked (and had to try hard on) both Scoobs (High Tor Right). I also enjoyed Insurrection (Trench Wall) because it was a joint 1st ascent (OK, I was 2nd to lead but we both did a fair bit of the prep).
Abroad I liked Prince of Darkness (long semi-sport), The Gambler (sport) and Dream of Wild Turkeys (trad-ish), all in the Red Rocks area.
In reply to Submit to Gravity: I hope so,it really is worth going back for.
There seems to be a lot of Pembroke routes on this thread. This year was my first visit and I'll definitelybe going back.
sjm
There seems to be a lot of Pembroke routes on this thread. This year was my first visit and I'll definitelybe going back.
sjm
In reply to Phill Mitch:
For me it's a toss-up between:
Scoop Wall - good climbing, good position and good value for the grade; or
Sardine - a historic route and my hardest lead, managed by the skin of my teeth.
For me it's a toss-up between:
Scoop Wall - good climbing, good position and good value for the grade; or
Sardine - a historic route and my hardest lead, managed by the skin of my teeth.
In reply to sjminfife: As I said, mine was at Pembroke. The outstanding thing for me was the isolated position (seemed like not another person for a few miles), as well as struggling to find the right crag, then wondering what to abb off, all with a big sea running and not being able to get right to the bottom of the route fully and the easiest route out being E1. After abbing down we could hardly hear eachother for the sea crashing right up to our feet.Followed by great climbing, perfect gear on perfect rock and in an ace position. Routes are I think sometimes better if started from scratch as opposed to with someone who's done it before. Top day for us, finished with the obligatory pint
In reply to murdster:
Weird comment on this thread???
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
>
> Hello MJ you stalker. Get a life.
>
> Hello MJ you stalker. Get a life.
Weird comment on this thread???
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Single pitch :Aardvark
Multi-pitch :Ventre a terre (Auguille de Sialouze) or Madier Route or Beau Quartier.Couldn't limit it to only one!
Alpine mixed: Traverse of the Barre des Ecrins.
Single pitch :Aardvark
Multi-pitch :Ventre a terre (Auguille de Sialouze) or Madier Route or Beau Quartier.Couldn't limit it to only one!
Alpine mixed: Traverse of the Barre des Ecrins.
In reply to harold walmsley:
Is the Wrack good? Well, obviously since you enjoyed it!
On my list for next year
Is the Wrack good? Well, obviously since you enjoyed it!
On my list for next year
In reply to Phill Mitch: Superdirect on Dinas Mot, awesome!!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Zarquon/Resurrection/Erection at Llechog, a magnificent climb of character, tricky last pitch worthy of 3* and well worth the walk in !
Not been an eventful year but, roll on 2012
mills.
Zarquon/Resurrection/Erection at Llechog, a magnificent climb of character, tricky last pitch worthy of 3* and well worth the walk in !
Not been an eventful year but, roll on 2012
mills.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Vector and Deep Throat and Sacre Coeur and talking to PLJ about it, though Marchand de Sable and a few other routes at Envers were awesome too.
Vector and Deep Throat and Sacre Coeur and talking to PLJ about it, though Marchand de Sable and a few other routes at Envers were awesome too.
In reply to Phill Mitch: so many but top 3 in no order.
Pebble Mill- great route made all the better by being my first real climb above E3 plus I soloed it. roughly a year after my first lead too (blowing my own trumpet here i know but thats the thread i guess)
Nexeus- 2 brilliant 5b pitches, led them both. plus did it straight after leading the main pitch of Superdirect. great day
Dry Wit in a Wet Country- not really a route anymore but one of my favourite highballs that ive done all year round. lovely technical moves and feels quite high somehow. just pips To be or Not to be really.
Pebble Mill- great route made all the better by being my first real climb above E3 plus I soloed it. roughly a year after my first lead too (blowing my own trumpet here i know but thats the thread i guess)
Nexeus- 2 brilliant 5b pitches, led them both. plus did it straight after leading the main pitch of Superdirect. great day
Dry Wit in a Wet Country- not really a route anymore but one of my favourite highballs that ive done all year round. lovely technical moves and feels quite high somehow. just pips To be or Not to be really.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Osiris at Lewes Castle. Glad to finally have got it done, despite falling off it and generally making a bit of a dogs dinner of it.
Osiris at Lewes Castle. Glad to finally have got it done, despite falling off it and generally making a bit of a dogs dinner of it.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Trinity slabs Wallowbarrow. My first route after 6 months off with a broken leg! Was a lovely route on a lovely indian summer day.
First at a great crag too, will be back for more next year
First at a great crag too, will be back for more next year
In reply to Phill Mitch: All in NW Scotland:
Poacher's Prize, Badrallach
Flamingo, Sheigra
Ewephoria, Loch Tollaidh
All routes of character. Nothing very exciting, but then, these days, we don't often get up on the big high crags.
Poacher's Prize, Badrallach
Flamingo, Sheigra
Ewephoria, Loch Tollaidh
All routes of character. Nothing very exciting, but then, these days, we don't often get up on the big high crags.
In reply to Rog Wilko: Oh, nearly forgot - finally after a long and undistinguisghed climbing career we did Napes Needle. Quite memorable in its way.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Blue Sky - South Pembrokeshire - about as unlikely-looking VS as it is possible to imagine - fantastic location, gear, steepness and exposure - and its only about HS (which makes it even more ludicrous-looking)!
Sinecure - North Pembrokeshire (Carreg-y-Barcud) - really a case of a route that could only be improved by being 3 times longer - given E1, but it so suits my climbing that I found it about VS! Stunning, whatever the grade.
PP.
Blue Sky - South Pembrokeshire - about as unlikely-looking VS as it is possible to imagine - fantastic location, gear, steepness and exposure - and its only about HS (which makes it even more ludicrous-looking)!
Sinecure - North Pembrokeshire (Carreg-y-Barcud) - really a case of a route that could only be improved by being 3 times longer - given E1, but it so suits my climbing that I found it about VS! Stunning, whatever the grade.
PP.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Probably... Bosigran Ridge. Stunning setting and although the climbing is never particularly challenging its always throwing something new at you.
Also worthy of a mention is Pulpit Route on Milestone Buttress. My mate struggled up the chimney on pitch 3 - took him AGES - and it took me a while to get up after him too. Topped out of that pitch by crawling up and into his crotch - very friendly! Climbed pitch 4 in the dark with one head-torch between us because he left his in the car. A bouncy and painful stacked abseil down a sopping wet, slippery gully. Torrential rain started right as we got to the base of the descent gully and persisted for the duration of our excruciatingly slow walk out to the car, in which I had to stop every 10ft to light my friend's way and we both slipped on our arses a number of times, all while carrying a pair of sipping wet 60m doubles. A proper little epic adventure climb with my best mate - doesn't get much better than that.
Probably... Bosigran Ridge. Stunning setting and although the climbing is never particularly challenging its always throwing something new at you.
Also worthy of a mention is Pulpit Route on Milestone Buttress. My mate struggled up the chimney on pitch 3 - took him AGES - and it took me a while to get up after him too. Topped out of that pitch by crawling up and into his crotch - very friendly! Climbed pitch 4 in the dark with one head-torch between us because he left his in the car. A bouncy and painful stacked abseil down a sopping wet, slippery gully. Torrential rain started right as we got to the base of the descent gully and persisted for the duration of our excruciatingly slow walk out to the car, in which I had to stop every 10ft to light my friend's way and we both slipped on our arses a number of times, all while carrying a pair of sipping wet 60m doubles. A proper little epic adventure climb with my best mate - doesn't get much better than that.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Visite Obligatoire on the Aiguille Dibona, probably the route I have enjoyed most over my whole climbing career.
Right level of challenge for me, lots of pitches, sporting run-outs to keep it interesting, and fantastic pointy Alpine peak.
Some other enjoyable highlights were being guided up Indicator wall on the Ben, after sampling the first pitch of point 5 gully, a day spent on the blue circuit at Rocher Sabots , and then a host of Peak bouldering ticks that represent a bit of progress.
Right level of challenge for me, lots of pitches, sporting run-outs to keep it interesting, and fantastic pointy Alpine peak.
Some other enjoyable highlights were being guided up Indicator wall on the Ben, after sampling the first pitch of point 5 gully, a day spent on the blue circuit at Rocher Sabots , and then a host of Peak bouldering ticks that represent a bit of progress.
Can't decide between a few. The routes I remember best aren't the hard routes I only just got up, but the real quality ones climbed with good company.
Soloing Doorpost as the sun went down.
Group solo of Riders on the Storm. I had seconded it the day before and knew right away that I wanted to solo it, secure holds and interesting moves all the way.
Bel Ami one evening at Curbar with my Dad.
And may there be many more to come
Soloing Doorpost as the sun went down.
Group solo of Riders on the Storm. I had seconded it the day before and knew right away that I wanted to solo it, secure holds and interesting moves all the way.
Bel Ami one evening at Curbar with my Dad.
And may there be many more to come
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I don't feel like I've achevied much in climbing this year, but looking back I've had some pretty good days.
Vanishing Gully with my Dad was a fun short day
Discovering Green Light - the best VS at Gogarth - with Dave. I've done it three times now and it is gripping!
Running up Overhanging Bastion in the fadding light with Nikki.
Remembering how scary Gormenghaust is, again with Nikki.
Leading all of the voie de dalles on the Pouce. Very commiting with a single rope.
Climbing the S face of Chichicapac with Hamish in a long day. First new route and a big adventure.
Doing Barbarian at Tremadog with Dad and Nikki. I'd backed off this before and it was good to get it clean.
This have all been fun routes and good acheivments, but I don't feel I've progressed much in climbing.
I don't feel like I've achevied much in climbing this year, but looking back I've had some pretty good days.
Vanishing Gully with my Dad was a fun short day
Discovering Green Light - the best VS at Gogarth - with Dave. I've done it three times now and it is gripping!
Running up Overhanging Bastion in the fadding light with Nikki.
Remembering how scary Gormenghaust is, again with Nikki.
Leading all of the voie de dalles on the Pouce. Very commiting with a single rope.
Climbing the S face of Chichicapac with Hamish in a long day. First new route and a big adventure.
Doing Barbarian at Tremadog with Dad and Nikki. I'd backed off this before and it was good to get it clean.
This have all been fun routes and good acheivments, but I don't feel I've progressed much in climbing.
In reply to jadias: I love an epic. Cheers for that, one to remember.
In reply to Bulls Crack:
I thought it was very good. We started direct up the groove as described in the old guide rather than out on the right as in the new because it seemed more natural. It didn't strike me as being the easiest E2 even though it is bottom of the list but that may be age catching up with me.
> (In reply to harold walmsley)
>
> Is the Wrack good? Well, obviously since you enjoyed it!
>
> On my list for next year
>
> Is the Wrack good? Well, obviously since you enjoyed it!
>
> On my list for next year
I thought it was very good. We started direct up the groove as described in the old guide rather than out on the right as in the new because it seemed more natural. It didn't strike me as being the easiest E2 even though it is bottom of the list but that may be age catching up with me.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I like the trainers for making it safe. Bet your glad to get it done eh. Brush off is too easy for you now!
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
>I think we already spoke about the moon.>
> - Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird.
Thats on my list Jon.> - Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird.
>
> - Archangel. Wanted to do it for years. Drove up to the crag on my own, warmed up, sauntered up to the bottom of the route, placed my trainers on the sharpest looking rock (does that count as padding out the landing?), cleaned my boots and got straight up to the break without a false start. Exactly the way I wanted to climb it.
> - Archangel. Wanted to do it for years. Drove up to the crag on my own, warmed up, sauntered up to the bottom of the route, placed my trainers on the sharpest looking rock (does that count as padding out the landing?), cleaned my boots and got straight up to the break without a false start. Exactly the way I wanted to climb it.
I like the trainers for making it safe. Bet your glad to get it done eh. Brush off is too easy for you now!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Superdirect at Dinas mot. Just awesome.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I should add that we got back to the car at absurd o'clock and bivvied in the Joe Brown Capel Curig car park for several nights following. Good trip, that was...
I should add that we got back to the car at absurd o'clock and bivvied in the Joe Brown Capel Curig car park for several nights following. Good trip, that was...
In reply to Phill Mitch:
My favourite route this year was Rock Idol at Mother Careys. Unlikely looking for the grade but all do-able on the day. Polished it off in good style and had a great time on it.
A very close second was doing Mur y Niwl and Pinnacle Wall back in July. Absolutely cracking mountain route with some great exposure. We did it the day after doing Faith, Hope, Charity, Original Route, Lazerus and The Arete in 6 hours moving together on a long rope. All easy stuff but really nice moving at speed over rock with minimum faff.
Third was climbing a clean onsight of Poltergeist at Bosherston Head. Soft for the grade but lovely moves and I felt solid and confident on it all the way through.
I'm pleased to have been belayer for 2 other people on this thread on their best climbs of the year too, I've had some cracking days out with good mates.
My shoes have finally dried from doing Myola with Submit to Gravity! ;0)
My favourite route this year was Rock Idol at Mother Careys. Unlikely looking for the grade but all do-able on the day. Polished it off in good style and had a great time on it.
A very close second was doing Mur y Niwl and Pinnacle Wall back in July. Absolutely cracking mountain route with some great exposure. We did it the day after doing Faith, Hope, Charity, Original Route, Lazerus and The Arete in 6 hours moving together on a long rope. All easy stuff but really nice moving at speed over rock with minimum faff.
Third was climbing a clean onsight of Poltergeist at Bosherston Head. Soft for the grade but lovely moves and I felt solid and confident on it all the way through.
I'm pleased to have been belayer for 2 other people on this thread on their best climbs of the year too, I've had some cracking days out with good mates.
My shoes have finally dried from doing Myola with Submit to Gravity! ;0)
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Looking back through my logbook confirms I've not done much of note this year. Of the few routes I have done Preposterous Tales stands out by a good margin as the most hilarious and therefore enjoyable
The year is still young, there's time yet for a tick of the Wetherby Traverse!
jk
Looking back through my logbook confirms I've not done much of note this year. Of the few routes I have done Preposterous Tales stands out by a good margin as the most hilarious and therefore enjoyable
The year is still young, there's time yet for a tick of the Wetherby Traverse!
jk
In reply to harold walmsley:
I expect I'll feel the same!
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> [...]
>
> I thought it was very good. We started direct up the groove as described in the old guide rather than out on the right as in the new because it seemed more natural. It didn't strike me as being the easiest E2 even though it is bottom of the list but that may be age catching up with me.
> [...]
>
> I thought it was very good. We started direct up the groove as described in the old guide rather than out on the right as in the new because it seemed more natural. It didn't strike me as being the easiest E2 even though it is bottom of the list but that may be age catching up with me.
I expect I'll feel the same!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Kipling Groove for me. I've wanted to do it for years and when I finally got round to it I got to lead the excellent top pitch.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Some ace routes here, thanks a lot. Many sea cliff climbs seem to have won peoples hearts and minds. Keep em coming.All make good reading but I love the ones with the reason why it was ace.And no arguments so far, UKCers thanks for restoring my faith.
In reply to Phill Mitch: climbing zeppelin twice in a weekend first time we climbed it in five hours then the next day we managed it in three hours linking pitches.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Extraction (Trem) as a single pitch - varied and sustained. Had to do it as I failed the evening before and left a runner in it!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Some great days this year. Latching the top of Bored of the Lies after falling 6 times from the last move was a big moment. First E3, Absent Friends, was great too. Also really enjoyed Vector and other routes on a great weekend in wales. And commander energy a month or so ago was great, the first proper typical grit route id done for ages on a lovely crisp day.
Some great days this year. Latching the top of Bored of the Lies after falling 6 times from the last move was a big moment. First E3, Absent Friends, was great too. Also really enjoyed Vector and other routes on a great weekend in wales. And commander energy a month or so ago was great, the first proper typical grit route id done for ages on a lovely crisp day.
In reply to Si dH: and how could I forget, Wombat at Malham. Had to properly lay one on for the top, mental but awesome!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Whit's End Direct - Gimmer - Simply superb slab climbing in an amazing setting.
Rock Idol - AMAZING juggy climbing through some big roofs. Was very glad to find the gear just below the roof.
Riders on the Storm - Possibly the best route of year. Fantastic atmosphere and commitment above the sea.
White Rhino Tea - Berry Head. A full day and a half spent splashing down on this one in the sun. Didn't get it in the end but should have! It's all about the process.
Magical Mystery Tour - BH. The most metres of climbing done in a short time. The caves are particularly exciting, as is the swim across the (2nd?) grotto. Superb.
First Slip - Tremadog. Probably my hardest lead of the year. Spent a good while on it. The upper bridging groove is hard and simply superb. It's definitely not E1 though...
Assassin - Juniper Wall. Some of the best rock on a HVS in the country. Simply superb, exposed HVS climbing. Amazing moves and protection.
Park Lane/ Doomsville. Lead the second pitch, amazing and pretty weird moves up a line that looks much easier than it is!
The Russian - Symonds Yat. Hard sustained climbing, good gear if you find a way to rest.
Whit's End Direct - Gimmer - Simply superb slab climbing in an amazing setting.
Rock Idol - AMAZING juggy climbing through some big roofs. Was very glad to find the gear just below the roof.
Riders on the Storm - Possibly the best route of year. Fantastic atmosphere and commitment above the sea.
White Rhino Tea - Berry Head. A full day and a half spent splashing down on this one in the sun. Didn't get it in the end but should have! It's all about the process.
Magical Mystery Tour - BH. The most metres of climbing done in a short time. The caves are particularly exciting, as is the swim across the (2nd?) grotto. Superb.
First Slip - Tremadog. Probably my hardest lead of the year. Spent a good while on it. The upper bridging groove is hard and simply superb. It's definitely not E1 though...
Assassin - Juniper Wall. Some of the best rock on a HVS in the country. Simply superb, exposed HVS climbing. Amazing moves and protection.
Park Lane/ Doomsville. Lead the second pitch, amazing and pretty weird moves up a line that looks much easier than it is!
The Russian - Symonds Yat. Hard sustained climbing, good gear if you find a way to rest.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Bruvers at Holyhead Mountain. Basically because for the entire 2nd half of it I was pumped out my skull and didn't expect to hold it together for the next move, let alone to the top!
Bruvers at Holyhead Mountain. Basically because for the entire 2nd half of it I was pumped out my skull and didn't expect to hold it together for the next move, let alone to the top!
In reply to Si dH:Just did vector in the last few years,commander energy this year, and wombat this year too, although TBH it's been on my list too many years before that. All Brilliant.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Well I hope my mates aren't reading this as they'll no doubt tell me to switch the record off.
I climbed The Nose in October which surpassed all my wildest dreams by a factor of 1000 - then 3 days later after coming down off El Cap I met a guy in El Cap meadow who was as keen as me and a day later we set off up Zodiac which was absolutely mind-blowing. An amazing experience climbed in good style and pretty quick - one bivvy.
So Zodiac is the answer.
E
Well I hope my mates aren't reading this as they'll no doubt tell me to switch the record off.
I climbed The Nose in October which surpassed all my wildest dreams by a factor of 1000 - then 3 days later after coming down off El Cap I met a guy in El Cap meadow who was as keen as me and a day later we set off up Zodiac which was absolutely mind-blowing. An amazing experience climbed in good style and pretty quick - one bivvy.
So Zodiac is the answer.
E
In reply to Enty:
Ooooooooh, that's right. Come and pi$$ on all our chips!
Really though, well done. I'm quite jealous.
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
Ooooooooh, that's right. Come and pi$$ on all our chips!
Really though, well done. I'm quite jealous.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Good thread!
I started climbing again more or less from scratch after a year and a half of doing very little so there have been lots of little milestones and certain routes which stand out as I started to regain form. It's hard to pick highlights but if I had to then the following would probably make the list:
Gormenghast in t-shirts on a day of perfect weather at the start of March. I've been rained off this twice in the past so it was great to get it done - I'm glad I didn't give up on it; it's a superb route.
A trip to the SW at Easter had several memorable days. Pick of the bunch include a perfect day at Chair Ladder doing Bishop's Rib, South Face Direct and Excelsior; Journey to Ixtlan and Rainbow Games at Carn Gowla (how much fun is that route?!) and The Verger at Blackchurch. Mostly it was just great to get to an area that was almost entirely new to me as I'd only been as far as the Culm Coast and Lundy before that trip.
I think the best day of the lot though would be finally doing Central Pillar on Esk Buttress at the end of July. The weather was glorious - we swam in the river on the way to the crag - and the route was every bit as good as I'd expected it to be. We contemplated doing another route afterwards but decided to sack it off, walked out and were at the Newfield in time for food and a pint. Even the bog which meant we had wet feet for the whole dayc ouldn't spoil things. Days out in the Lakes don't come any better.
Good thread!
I started climbing again more or less from scratch after a year and a half of doing very little so there have been lots of little milestones and certain routes which stand out as I started to regain form. It's hard to pick highlights but if I had to then the following would probably make the list:
Gormenghast in t-shirts on a day of perfect weather at the start of March. I've been rained off this twice in the past so it was great to get it done - I'm glad I didn't give up on it; it's a superb route.
A trip to the SW at Easter had several memorable days. Pick of the bunch include a perfect day at Chair Ladder doing Bishop's Rib, South Face Direct and Excelsior; Journey to Ixtlan and Rainbow Games at Carn Gowla (how much fun is that route?!) and The Verger at Blackchurch. Mostly it was just great to get to an area that was almost entirely new to me as I'd only been as far as the Culm Coast and Lundy before that trip.
I think the best day of the lot though would be finally doing Central Pillar on Esk Buttress at the end of July. The weather was glorious - we swam in the river on the way to the crag - and the route was every bit as good as I'd expected it to be. We contemplated doing another route afterwards but decided to sack it off, walked out and were at the Newfield in time for food and a pint. Even the bog which meant we had wet feet for the whole dayc ouldn't spoil things. Days out in the Lakes don't come any better.
In reply to Pagan:
Mmmm, Esk Buttress - really need to get back there too: the only time I've been (May 2010) it had been so dry, the bog, well wasn't boggy and the river Esk was essentially dry at that point in the valley!
I'll have to persevere in getting on Gormenghast...
...and I really want to go to Chair Ladder again... damnit!
PP.
Mmmm, Esk Buttress - really need to get back there too: the only time I've been (May 2010) it had been so dry, the bog, well wasn't boggy and the river Esk was essentially dry at that point in the valley!
I'll have to persevere in getting on Gormenghast...
...and I really want to go to Chair Ladder again... damnit!
PP.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Grooved Arete on Pikes Crag.....only go's at v diff but a great mountain day out with the summit of Scafell Pike only a 30 min walk after the climb..
Grooved Arete on Pikes Crag.....only go's at v diff but a great mountain day out with the summit of Scafell Pike only a 30 min walk after the climb..
In reply to Phill Mitch: Puig Campana - Espolon central direct and the Edwards finish - a very satisfying day out. Done at the beginning of feb and the last climb of any consequence I did this year. Maybe I'll get back into it next year....
-
-
In reply to Phill Mitch: o would say my first e 1 corrugation , but to be honest the one that captured me the mist was isis hvs on lewes castel, rested a few times on first ascent but went back and nailed it, really enjoyed the variety and character of each section
In reply to afshapes:
Isis is superb!
Get on Seth next time you are there. Several hard but beautiful moves with perfect gear.
Isis is superb!
Get on Seth next time you are there. Several hard but beautiful moves with perfect gear.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
It's been a pretty good year. 500 routes, 9 E-points, plenty of new crags and even a new guidebook tick.
The route I enjoyed the most? Probably Rock Dancer at Carn Kenidjack, but Lucky Strike, Lunakhod, Great Crack (so good I did it twice), Snakes Alive and all the HVSs at Shorncliffe.
The route I'm most pleased to have done? Easily Altar Crack, because now I never have to go near the bloody thing ever again. Whoop.
It's been a pretty good year. 500 routes, 9 E-points, plenty of new crags and even a new guidebook tick.
The route I enjoyed the most? Probably Rock Dancer at Carn Kenidjack, but Lucky Strike, Lunakhod, Great Crack (so good I did it twice), Snakes Alive and all the HVSs at Shorncliffe.
The route I'm most pleased to have done? Easily Altar Crack, because now I never have to go near the bloody thing ever again. Whoop.
In reply to victim of mathematics:
"Easily Altar Crack, because now I never have to go near the bloody thing ever again. Whoop."
There's plenty more similar routes for next time we're out!
"Easily Altar Crack, because now I never have to go near the bloody thing ever again. Whoop."
There's plenty more similar routes for next time we're out!
I haven't been climbing nearly enough this year; for me, a list of this year's favourite routes is eerily reminiscent of a list of this year's routes.
The Nadelhorn from the Windjoch, Agag's Groove, and Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean are three that come to mind instantly. The sad thing is that there haven't been that many others.
The Nadelhorn from the Windjoch, Agag's Groove, and Pinnacle Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean are three that come to mind instantly. The sad thing is that there haven't been that many others.
In reply to harold walmsley: No, 'nails' springs to mind. I was running out of light and wanted for a few small cams when I did it (or rather didn't), feels quite out there. Not sure how this got bottom of the E2s, there are loads that are way easier than this? A re-match is required next year...
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe, done with an old friend to celebrate his 70th birthday. Beautiful day, one of the truly great routes on grit and a memorable occasion!
Suicide Wall, Cratcliffe, done with an old friend to celebrate his 70th birthday. Beautiful day, one of the truly great routes on grit and a memorable occasion!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Aphasia on Sergeant Crag slabs and Paragon at Bosigran because I had wanted to do both of them for a very long time and a route called Fluer de Lotus at Orpierre because I'd "girded up my loins" expecting to find it hard but cruised it.
Al
Al
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Memory Lane on the Cromlech or Cassin on the Piz Badile I think. Both in retrospect...
cheers
mark
Memory Lane on the Cromlech or Cassin on the Piz Badile I think. Both in retrospect...
cheers
mark
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: You alright Al?
In reply to Phill Mitch: Scavenger at Gogarth on a sunny day in August or maybe Black Spring, D. Mot, both longstanding in the tick list.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
The two that spring to mind are:
Scrattling Crack at Baggy
stunning line, atmospheric setting, consistent difficulty and quite a head trip for a VDiff
and
Sub cneifion rib to cneifion arete linkup - my first multipitch experience early in the year, then repeated as my girlfriend's first multipitch experience later in the year.
The two that spring to mind are:
Scrattling Crack at Baggy
stunning line, atmospheric setting, consistent difficulty and quite a head trip for a VDiff
and
Sub cneifion rib to cneifion arete linkup - my first multipitch experience early in the year, then repeated as my girlfriend's first multipitch experience later in the year.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Its got to be Riders of the storm or cool for cats (first pembs E1 to celebrate my birthday). Done a fair amount this year so really hard to pin it all down to just one. Aviation at haytor or may be haggis. Limbo in Avon gorge. King Kong or wurlitzer in wye valley.
like i said i really cant pin it down.
lets hope for a repeat for next year
like i said i really cant pin it down.
lets hope for a repeat for next year
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Onsight solo of electric blue, wanted to do it for a while and did it just before the rain then watched Dave cruise it too.
Finally reaching the end of green traverse without falling off, total opposite experience as have tried it many times over about 2 years.
Cheers, Tim.
Onsight solo of electric blue, wanted to do it for a while and did it just before the rain then watched Dave cruise it too.
Finally reaching the end of green traverse without falling off, total opposite experience as have tried it many times over about 2 years.
Cheers, Tim.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe - only a Diff, but something I'd wanted to climb for years.
Bald Eagle, Stone Valley - just as good second time round: perfect rock, lovely moves, beautiful setting.
East Buttress, Beinn Eighe - only a Diff, but something I'd wanted to climb for years.
Bald Eagle, Stone Valley - just as good second time round: perfect rock, lovely moves, beautiful setting.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Bear's Reach in South Lake Tahoe with my friend who had never climbed before.
In reply to Enty:
You can dine out on this one for a while yet matey !!
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
>
> Well I hope my mates aren't reading this as they'll no doubt tell me to switch the record off.
> I climbed The Nose in October which surpassed all my wildest dreams by a factor of 1000 - then 3 days later after coming down off El Cap I met a guy in El Cap meadow who was as keen as me and a day later we set off up Zodiac which was absolutely mind-blowing. An amazing experience climbed in good style and pretty quick - one bivvy.
> So Zodiac is the answer.
>
> E
>
> Well I hope my mates aren't reading this as they'll no doubt tell me to switch the record off.
> I climbed The Nose in October which surpassed all my wildest dreams by a factor of 1000 - then 3 days later after coming down off El Cap I met a guy in El Cap meadow who was as keen as me and a day later we set off up Zodiac which was absolutely mind-blowing. An amazing experience climbed in good style and pretty quick - one bivvy.
> So Zodiac is the answer.
>
> E
You can dine out on this one for a while yet matey !!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
In no particular order this South West punter's progress for the year...
Nibelheim at Wintour's. The North Wall had always intimidated me and having to dig deep to get over the overhang at the top was a great moment.
Giant's Cave Buttress at Avon. Another route that I've looked wistfully at for a year or two, after the tricky moves away from the belay the third pitch was just really pleasurable climbing.
Valkyrie at the Roaches. Having been completely over-awed by it the previous year stepping out of Rockall Cottage at about 7.30 a.m. and getting up it was a big tick. Such a great line and (in)famous climb. Getting back afterwards to the coffee and bacon sarnie I had abandoned due to nerves was nice too.
Zelda at Wintour's. Wanted to do it for ages but weather and partners had conspired against me. The belay was just grand on a hot summers day.
Tar Baby at Chudders. With my brother and another novice neither of whom had climbed outdoors, a beautiful spring evening on our way to Dartmoor to celebrate my impending fatherhood, I thought it was Green Mantle at the time but that's another story.
In no particular order this South West punter's progress for the year...
Nibelheim at Wintour's. The North Wall had always intimidated me and having to dig deep to get over the overhang at the top was a great moment.
Giant's Cave Buttress at Avon. Another route that I've looked wistfully at for a year or two, after the tricky moves away from the belay the third pitch was just really pleasurable climbing.
Valkyrie at the Roaches. Having been completely over-awed by it the previous year stepping out of Rockall Cottage at about 7.30 a.m. and getting up it was a big tick. Such a great line and (in)famous climb. Getting back afterwards to the coffee and bacon sarnie I had abandoned due to nerves was nice too.
Zelda at Wintour's. Wanted to do it for ages but weather and partners had conspired against me. The belay was just grand on a hot summers day.
Tar Baby at Chudders. With my brother and another novice neither of whom had climbed outdoors, a beautiful spring evening on our way to Dartmoor to celebrate my impending fatherhood, I thought it was Green Mantle at the time but that's another story.
In reply to Phill Mitch: In no particular order:
Squareface - brilliant - have wanted to do it since seeing photos of it in Classic Rock - and the cycle back out is awesome too.
Mental Physics and Stitcher Quits in Joshua Tree - lovely routes in the most awesome of setting.
Right Angle at Gurnard's Head - atmospheric.
Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) - for being allowed to feel like Indiana Jones (I want a hat and whip!).
Bird on a Wire - Range West - absolutely beautiful route.
Squareface - brilliant - have wanted to do it since seeing photos of it in Classic Rock - and the cycle back out is awesome too.
Mental Physics and Stitcher Quits in Joshua Tree - lovely routes in the most awesome of setting.
Right Angle at Gurnard's Head - atmospheric.
Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) - for being allowed to feel like Indiana Jones (I want a hat and whip!).
Bird on a Wire - Range West - absolutely beautiful route.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Cumming-Crofton route on Beinn a'Bhuird. Total isolation and enjoyable exposed climbing with an entertaining cycle to and from Braemar as well.
Cumming-Crofton route on Beinn a'Bhuird. Total isolation and enjoyable exposed climbing with an entertaining cycle to and from Braemar as well.
In reply to Phill Mitch: What an excellent thread, another vote for Preposterous Tales http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=181563 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=181562 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=181561 I also really enjoyed Cneifion Arete.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Hard to pick the best from an awsome year
Silly Arete, after looking at it for about 10 years! Awesome
Left Wall, another I've been saving/ putting off!!! Well worth it!
Traveller intime, completely the opposite, go to crag, see line, climb it
And many more
Hard to pick the best from an awsome year
Silly Arete, after looking at it for about 10 years! Awesome
Left Wall, another I've been saving/ putting off!!! Well worth it!
Traveller intime, completely the opposite, go to crag, see line, climb it
And many more
In reply to Phill Mitch: 2 stand out.
Arete Du Belvedere ... first route done in the Verdon and an excellent adventure ... "interesting" scramble approach, mostly french 5 with a single 6a+ pitch but with run outs long enough to really focus the mind and an amazing exposed, beautiful location.
Thane at Kenidjack. Lovely route and the most composed I've felt leading E1.
Arete Du Belvedere ... first route done in the Verdon and an excellent adventure ... "interesting" scramble approach, mostly french 5 with a single 6a+ pitch but with run outs long enough to really focus the mind and an amazing exposed, beautiful location.
Thane at Kenidjack. Lovely route and the most composed I've felt leading E1.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Not been my most productive year but I guess I would have to go for the Rochefort Arete or NNE ridge of the Aiguille de L'M!
Not been my most productive year but I guess I would have to go for the Rochefort Arete or NNE ridge of the Aiguille de L'M!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Dream of White Horses, right partner, right day, right route. Started a little intimidated, so greater feeling of conquering it.
Valkerie, Roaches, wet day sacked off indoors, sun came out shot back and finished it. 200th tick for the year (also a target) good route snatched from middling day.
Cent, soloed, think I can, I think I can, I think I can. I CAN! awsome support from just the right people.
Monument Crack, Rylstone, end of the day, big ask for me, but happy to belay, Clean on second and want to lead it, lovley route
Suspense, Lawrencfield. Second, No way could I lead that, but being nagged by just the right person to second it, had to rest but less than I expected and loved the route.
Gargoyle Butress, A lovley romp with impressive view. Easy at the grade.
Valkerie, Roaches, wet day sacked off indoors, sun came out shot back and finished it. 200th tick for the year (also a target) good route snatched from middling day.
Cent, soloed, think I can, I think I can, I think I can. I CAN! awsome support from just the right people.
Monument Crack, Rylstone, end of the day, big ask for me, but happy to belay, Clean on second and want to lead it, lovley route
Suspense, Lawrencfield. Second, No way could I lead that, but being nagged by just the right person to second it, had to rest but less than I expected and loved the route.
Gargoyle Butress, A lovley romp with impressive view. Easy at the grade.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Ones that stick out:
Birdlime Traverse at Almscliffe - underrated I reckon.
Swordfish at Stackpole - top place, mega route.
Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) - for the craic.
Five Finger Exercise - favourite E2 in the Peak maybe.
Crooked Mile - Sharpnose - favourite sea cliff in the world definitely.
Normal route on the Dent du Rancune in the massif centrale. Just cos I saw it on the cover of a book. Epic.
Ones that stick out:
Birdlime Traverse at Almscliffe - underrated I reckon.
Swordfish at Stackpole - top place, mega route.
Snakes and Ladders (and Tunnels) - for the craic.
Five Finger Exercise - favourite E2 in the Peak maybe.
Crooked Mile - Sharpnose - favourite sea cliff in the world definitely.
Normal route on the Dent du Rancune in the massif centrale. Just cos I saw it on the cover of a book. Epic.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Grey Panther in April, a route I've wanted to do since I saw it in extreme rock when I was still at primary school. Did the route with an excellent friend and cruised the route
for the sheer adventure and epicness - Luna Bong
also enjoyed Freeborn Man, even though it beat me..
also enjoyed Freeborn Man, even though it beat me..
In reply to Jayboy:
I did a quick visit on a road trip around California. As another team were on it, I think we did Pop Bottle (?). The critters tried to eat our sandwiches whilst we were gone!
Is Bears Reach the one Dan Osman speed solos in 'that' video?
> Bear's Reach in South Lake Tahoe with my friend who had never climbed before.
I did a quick visit on a road trip around California. As another team were on it, I think we did Pop Bottle (?). The critters tried to eat our sandwiches whilst we were gone!
Is Bears Reach the one Dan Osman speed solos in 'that' video?
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I know it's a bit uncool to mention a mid-grade sports climb but I got a huge buzz out of fighting my way up Wild Sex on Kalymnos and being so pumped I literally touched the lower off before reversing my upward sprogress and taking a rather long fall into space. The name seemed to add something to the whole experience. A lot of great routes on the same wall - one of my best days sports climbing ever.
I know it's a bit uncool to mention a mid-grade sports climb but I got a huge buzz out of fighting my way up Wild Sex on Kalymnos and being so pumped I literally touched the lower off before reversing my upward sprogress and taking a rather long fall into space. The name seemed to add something to the whole experience. A lot of great routes on the same wall - one of my best days sports climbing ever.
In reply to jonny2vests:
Bloomin eck, if that sticks out you need to get out more!
Pig sh$t traverse more like.
leaving do? Or are the invites out and mine isn't?
cheers
mark
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
>
> Ones that stick out:
>
> Birdlime Traverse at Almscliffe - underrated I reckon.
>
> Ones that stick out:
>
> Birdlime Traverse at Almscliffe - underrated I reckon.
Bloomin eck, if that sticks out you need to get out more!
Pig sh$t traverse more like.
leaving do? Or are the invites out and mine isn't?
cheers
mark
In reply to Mark Westerman:
Welll... we had Jen's 30th, and I crammed a pub full of her family and friends, unfortunately there wasn't tons of room though. I guess we should have a Sheffield climber night out. Been meaning to ask you, I didn't leave a Terranova tent at your place in Wales did I?
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Bloomin eck, if that sticks out you need to get out more!
>
> Pig sh$t traverse more like.
>
> leaving do? Or are the invites out and mine isn't?
>
> cheers
> mark
> [...]
>
> Bloomin eck, if that sticks out you need to get out more!
>
> Pig sh$t traverse more like.
>
> leaving do? Or are the invites out and mine isn't?
>
> cheers
> mark
Welll... we had Jen's 30th, and I crammed a pub full of her family and friends, unfortunately there wasn't tons of room though. I guess we should have a Sheffield climber night out. Been meaning to ask you, I didn't leave a Terranova tent at your place in Wales did I?
In reply to Mark Westerman:
I take it you got spanked then?
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> Pig sh$t traverse more like.
> [...]
>
> Pig sh$t traverse more like.
I take it you got spanked then?
In reply to jonny2vests:
Obviously. Re tent. Dont think so but there is loads og nigels stuff there so could be. Will check weekemd after next.
Cheers
Mark
> (In reply to Mark Westerman)
> [...]
>
> I take it you got spanked then?
> [...]
>
> I take it you got spanked then?
Obviously. Re tent. Dont think so but there is loads og nigels stuff there so could be. Will check weekemd after next.
Cheers
Mark
I've only just got in to climbing this summer but have took to it like a duck to water. Just wish I had started in my teens.
The best route has got to be seconding the heart of darkness at pembroke. What a route! My best lead is oriris at lewes castle ( fall bay buttress) I hope the next year will just get better
The best route has got to be seconding the heart of darkness at pembroke. What a route! My best lead is oriris at lewes castle ( fall bay buttress) I hope the next year will just get better
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Done a fair few in a lot of places this year, but none were really standing out as fantastic - apart from the final pitch of Doorpost at Bosigran. I laughed all the way up! However, I just remembered I did the Rasp at Higgar. That wins for me.
Done a fair few in a lot of places this year, but none were really standing out as fantastic - apart from the final pitch of Doorpost at Bosigran. I laughed all the way up! However, I just remembered I did the Rasp at Higgar. That wins for me.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I've done so little climbing this year it's quite easy to narrow things down. It has to be either Bond street (millstone), because after struggling up it on second many many years ago I cruised up it easily this time. Or otherwise Great Western (almscliffe), because I really enjoyed sitting in the niche just beyond the crux looking out over the surrounding countryside.
Next year I want to get up Nonsuch at Rivelin, I got so close last time.
I've done so little climbing this year it's quite easy to narrow things down. It has to be either Bond street (millstone), because after struggling up it on second many many years ago I cruised up it easily this time. Or otherwise Great Western (almscliffe), because I really enjoyed sitting in the niche just beyond the crux looking out over the surrounding countryside.
Next year I want to get up Nonsuch at Rivelin, I got so close last time.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
The Don at Wyndcliff. Although slightly soft at E2, it was my first route in the extremes and the feeling of not being sure I'd get up it, then the satisfaction of the onsight and the confidence boost afterwards make it a very memorable route! Also, it's a very aesthetic line: well protected but technical bridging up an open groove - makes you wish that it went on longer
The Don at Wyndcliff. Although slightly soft at E2, it was my first route in the extremes and the feeling of not being sure I'd get up it, then the satisfaction of the onsight and the confidence boost afterwards make it a very memorable route! Also, it's a very aesthetic line: well protected but technical bridging up an open groove - makes you wish that it went on longer
In reply to Phill Mitch:
The route K2 that climbs up to the Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. The climbings not the hardest but the location and exposure make it an awesome route. The look on the tourists faces when you top out in front of the statue is priceless.
The route K2 that climbs up to the Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. The climbings not the hardest but the location and exposure make it an awesome route. The look on the tourists faces when you top out in front of the statue is priceless.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Been a slow year but my favourites were:
Lost Horizon, Baggy Point – This one felt much easier than I expected it to, all of a sudden your at the top wondering how you got there. Such a good line that just goes on and on. Then watching my gf second it, who hates anything to do with cracks, ha ha.
Lavaredo, Carreg Alltrem – We had the crag to ourselves on a perfect sunny day. The crag looks really intimidating on the approach and standing beneath it, but the 2 VS’s are steep climbing on perfect rock with not even a hint of polish!
Joy in the Garden, Kalymnos – Launching on to crimps from a rest at 2/3rds height, all of a sudden you feel very exposed. Such nice climbing that starts easy and gradually get harder towards the top.
Been a slow year but my favourites were:
Lost Horizon, Baggy Point – This one felt much easier than I expected it to, all of a sudden your at the top wondering how you got there. Such a good line that just goes on and on. Then watching my gf second it, who hates anything to do with cracks, ha ha.
Lavaredo, Carreg Alltrem – We had the crag to ourselves on a perfect sunny day. The crag looks really intimidating on the approach and standing beneath it, but the 2 VS’s are steep climbing on perfect rock with not even a hint of polish!
Joy in the Garden, Kalymnos – Launching on to crimps from a rest at 2/3rds height, all of a sudden you feel very exposed. Such nice climbing that starts easy and gradually get harder towards the top.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Osiris on Lewes Castle in the Gower. Third time lucky. Bailed off it the first time round. Second time I fell off and ended up seconding it. Third time round I still fell off, but went back down and climbed it ground up. So I guess I've managed to get that one done, just about. Still happy with the quality of my climbing on the third time.
Osiris on Lewes Castle in the Gower. Third time lucky. Bailed off it the first time round. Second time I fell off and ended up seconding it. Third time round I still fell off, but went back down and climbed it ground up. So I guess I've managed to get that one done, just about. Still happy with the quality of my climbing on the third time.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
I have had a brilliant year with climbing; I haven't climbed nearly as much as I would have liked but then who really does (excluding pros and bums
I wanted to consolidate VS this year which is the context for the two routes I enjoyed most:
Nibelheim: VS 4C, I climbed the route on a lovely day with Jon who'd made the first ascent a little while ago. It was a brilliant day, good weather and company and just that bit more special for the link to it's first ascent. It was also one of my early VS's of the Summer and not a certain prospect when I set out.
The Staff: This E1 was my first (so far of two) E1 climbs which were solely on gear no bolts or pegs just what I placed. I climbed it because I was limited on time and didn't want to move too far from the route we'd just climbed. I looked at it, figured I could probably place the first bit of gear or take the fall without too much injury an so took it on. When I got to the top I was so pleased with myself and I still am. This sums up a year where I wanted to consolidate one grade and have managed to push a bit beyond that, this year I really feel like a climber. Grade's not everything of course an both routes were an absolute pleasure for many reasons other than grade.
I have had a brilliant year with climbing; I haven't climbed nearly as much as I would have liked but then who really does (excluding pros and bums
I wanted to consolidate VS this year which is the context for the two routes I enjoyed most:
Nibelheim: VS 4C, I climbed the route on a lovely day with Jon who'd made the first ascent a little while ago. It was a brilliant day, good weather and company and just that bit more special for the link to it's first ascent. It was also one of my early VS's of the Summer and not a certain prospect when I set out.
The Staff: This E1 was my first (so far of two) E1 climbs which were solely on gear no bolts or pegs just what I placed. I climbed it because I was limited on time and didn't want to move too far from the route we'd just climbed. I looked at it, figured I could probably place the first bit of gear or take the fall without too much injury an so took it on. When I got to the top I was so pleased with myself and I still am. This sums up a year where I wanted to consolidate one grade and have managed to push a bit beyond that, this year I really feel like a climber. Grade's not everything of course an both routes were an absolute pleasure for many reasons other than grade.
In reply to puppythedog:
How refreshing to read that. That's how it should be.
> (In reply to Phill Mitch)
> I have had a brilliant year with climbing...
> When I got to the top I was so pleased with myself and I still am.
> I have had a brilliant year with climbing...
> When I got to the top I was so pleased with myself and I still am.
How refreshing to read that. That's how it should be.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Thanks for the replys, loads of great routes been done this year I think. Love UKC when we can all spread a bit of the joy we've had. I am just trying to think of another thread same but different Cheers Phill. Oh and keep em coming.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Thanks for the replys, loads of great routes been done this year I think. Love UKC when we can all spread a bit of the joy we've had. I am just trying to think of another thread same but different Cheers Phill. Oh,and keep em coming.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Thanks for the replys, loads of great routes been done this year I think. Love UKC when we can all spread a bit of the joy we've had. I am just trying to think of another thread same but different Cheers Phill. Oh,and keep em coming.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Say it again!
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Several days in a row climbing on a swiss crag in Sion, where we didnt know the grades, just enjoyed it, gives me the tingles thinking about the whole experience. Two of my partners got a first ascent of an unclimbed face on Mont Blanc de Cheilon too, quite a trip!!
That and when me and JT did cenotaph and left wall for the first time on the same day
Several days in a row climbing on a swiss crag in Sion, where we didnt know the grades, just enjoyed it, gives me the tingles thinking about the whole experience. Two of my partners got a first ascent of an unclimbed face on Mont Blanc de Cheilon too, quite a trip!!
That and when me and JT did cenotaph and left wall for the first time on the same day
In reply to Phill Mitch: I think probably Glass Arete at Carn Barra, just the right levels of difficulty, brilliant moves on an arete, perfect length, enough gear and stolen from a day that began wet! Beautiful route!
Dunc
Dunc
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Overall the route that I enjoyed the most was probably the Rochefort Arete, amazing setting and perfect conditions. Most enjoyable trad route, probably Amorican - just relaxing, pleasurable climbing and being the only people at the crag. Lots of other memorable routes done in the Bristol and Wye valley areas though.
Overall the route that I enjoyed the most was probably the Rochefort Arete, amazing setting and perfect conditions. Most enjoyable trad route, probably Amorican - just relaxing, pleasurable climbing and being the only people at the crag. Lots of other memorable routes done in the Bristol and Wye valley areas though.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
This is easy, Buf! at Alaro in Mallorca. I had been dreaming of climbing this route for months, but imagine my frustration when at the begining of my weeks holiday I was being well and truly spanked by 6a's. Despite this on the last day of the trip I could not leave without at least trying the route. Probably played to my strengths but I managed to fight my way to a fantastic onsight, the outcome was uncertain right up to the last move. Can't wait to return and try some of the other routes on this awesome crag. Tufatastic!
This is easy, Buf! at Alaro in Mallorca. I had been dreaming of climbing this route for months, but imagine my frustration when at the begining of my weeks holiday I was being well and truly spanked by 6a's. Despite this on the last day of the trip I could not leave without at least trying the route. Probably played to my strengths but I managed to fight my way to a fantastic onsight, the outcome was uncertain right up to the last move. Can't wait to return and try some of the other routes on this awesome crag. Tufatastic!
In reply to Phill Mitch: Probably for me a La Grave route called Russieu De Grand Clot, a 500m ice route. Just a tremendous place, a sense of urgency, sustained climbing, good company and a huge cloud of coughs coming into roost at dusk. Bloody freezing on the tramp across the plateau but a cracking jaunt. Done on the 2nd January and great way to kick off 2011.
In reply to Phill Mitch: Penny lane in the smoke bluffs, squamish was absolutly amazing, first time on a propper granite crack. Felt amazing, felt like an american climber which i always thought i would be horrible but having the mentality of climb a few moves place a cam climb a few moves with almost every gear placement picked first time and full of confidence it was the best feeling climb ive done all year.
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Lots to choose from.
Billingsgate at Millstone and rubberneck at the Roaches are two that immediately spring to mind.
Lots to choose from.
Billingsgate at Millstone and rubberneck at the Roaches are two that immediately spring to mind.
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