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Another place holder as my wife is dragging me back to Winspit again!
Might as well make the most of the weather, stats to come by teatime 😃
Might as well make the most of the weather, stats to come by teatime 😃
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Sounds awful being dragged out against your will!
Not a bad week and the not so good stuff has been a good learning curve.
Got on the beastmaker this week. Ramped it right up to the BM 5A workout. Get me! Epic fail after 8 sets. Despite the 6 minute rest coming up i couldn't face another 12 sets or whatever it was. I was only doing chisel/half crimp and slopers too. It's definitely more of a fitness workout than pure finger strength but i'm determined not to injure myself this time round so i'm going to do that for a few weeks to see how the fingers go.
All i can say is 5A my arse!
Good session at the wall. Was intending to warm up bouldering, get the steep V5, and then do some routes. Ended up partnerless so just carried on steep bouldering. This was more trying hard problems and being able to do 2 or 3 moves before splatting off. Made sure i changed problems after 4 or 5 goes.
Went to Chapel Head Scar the day after. I'd had a terrible nights sleep, it ended up being a rushed morning meaning i left with no breakfast and not enough/proper food for the day. Combined with the hard bouldering the day before it was never going to be a recipe for success. Undaunted i arrived after the others and as they were on a 6c 'warm up' i went for it on the lead straight from the car. Shock horror it didn't go. I actually got to what turned out to be the last move but was pumped to hell and faced with a selection of holds to go for ( any of which could have been a jug or nothing ) i flopped off. Turns out the one i was looking at was the jug to go for and i felt a right idiot. Got it clean next go.
Moved onto a 7a and got blasted. Two goes on top rope was all i could manage. Got a sequence for the crux now but the whole thing felt too hard. My feet were appalling all day. Taking 3 or more stabs to hit holds, not weighting them properly etc. Not sure why.
So lessons learned. This week is planned out better with a rest day before going back to CHS and smashing the hell out of that route.
Started doing some exercises at home. Nothing major just some core and free weight stuff to keep me in good nick along with what i can hopefully now call pre-hab physio stuff.
did 2 cycle commutes to college ( 60 miles in total ) but fatness has stayed stubbornly in the same region. Planned half marathon this weekend didn't happen due to JD being ill.
Felt tired all the second half of the week this week. Need better sleep.
This week:
Benchmarking session indoors on Thursday. Going to use the Self Coached Climber baseline assessments to see where i'm up to and look at weaknesses. Strength is going to form the base of what i'll be working on until the New Year i think though. Most stuff seems to point towards that being the most important then crank on with the fitness work nearer goal time. It'll just be interesting to see where i'm up to. My indoor fitness feels poor but despite lack of ourdoor climbing i'm doing better than i thought i would.
Beastmaker x1 - beat 8 sets
Cycle to college x2
S&C x3 ( inc pre-hab for shoulders/elbows )
Smash War Hero at CHS
Cheers Dan. Sounds awful being dragged out against your will!
Not a bad week and the not so good stuff has been a good learning curve.
Got on the beastmaker this week. Ramped it right up to the BM 5A workout. Get me! Epic fail after 8 sets. Despite the 6 minute rest coming up i couldn't face another 12 sets or whatever it was. I was only doing chisel/half crimp and slopers too. It's definitely more of a fitness workout than pure finger strength but i'm determined not to injure myself this time round so i'm going to do that for a few weeks to see how the fingers go.
All i can say is 5A my arse!
Good session at the wall. Was intending to warm up bouldering, get the steep V5, and then do some routes. Ended up partnerless so just carried on steep bouldering. This was more trying hard problems and being able to do 2 or 3 moves before splatting off. Made sure i changed problems after 4 or 5 goes.
Went to Chapel Head Scar the day after. I'd had a terrible nights sleep, it ended up being a rushed morning meaning i left with no breakfast and not enough/proper food for the day. Combined with the hard bouldering the day before it was never going to be a recipe for success. Undaunted i arrived after the others and as they were on a 6c 'warm up' i went for it on the lead straight from the car. Shock horror it didn't go. I actually got to what turned out to be the last move but was pumped to hell and faced with a selection of holds to go for ( any of which could have been a jug or nothing ) i flopped off. Turns out the one i was looking at was the jug to go for and i felt a right idiot. Got it clean next go.
Moved onto a 7a and got blasted. Two goes on top rope was all i could manage. Got a sequence for the crux now but the whole thing felt too hard. My feet were appalling all day. Taking 3 or more stabs to hit holds, not weighting them properly etc. Not sure why.
So lessons learned. This week is planned out better with a rest day before going back to CHS and smashing the hell out of that route.
Started doing some exercises at home. Nothing major just some core and free weight stuff to keep me in good nick along with what i can hopefully now call pre-hab physio stuff.
did 2 cycle commutes to college ( 60 miles in total ) but fatness has stayed stubbornly in the same region. Planned half marathon this weekend didn't happen due to JD being ill.
Felt tired all the second half of the week this week. Need better sleep.
This week:
Benchmarking session indoors on Thursday. Going to use the Self Coached Climber baseline assessments to see where i'm up to and look at weaknesses. Strength is going to form the base of what i'll be working on until the New Year i think though. Most stuff seems to point towards that being the most important then crank on with the fitness work nearer goal time. It'll just be interesting to see where i'm up to. My indoor fitness feels poor but despite lack of ourdoor climbing i'm doing better than i thought i would.
Beastmaker x1 - beat 8 sets
Cycle to college x2
S&C x3 ( inc pre-hab for shoulders/elbows )
Smash War Hero at CHS
In reply to Dandan: Better than I feared but had a rather poor show today...
M - Trad in the 'Gorms
The Clean Sweep (VS 4c), Classic Rock tick
T & W - Not much...
T - travel back
F - nowt
S - Trad in the Pass
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c) Rpt
Left Wall (E2 5c) Rpt 2nd
Foil (E3 6a) Rpt
S - Trad @ Tremadog
Falcon (E1 5b) Rpt 2nd
Followed by faffing, not trying Vulcan and the bailing from Pincushion
M - Trad in the 'Gorms
The Clean Sweep (VS 4c), Classic Rock tick
T & W - Not much...
T - travel back
F - nowt
S - Trad in the Pass
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c) Rpt
Left Wall (E2 5c) Rpt 2nd
Foil (E3 6a) Rpt
S - Trad @ Tremadog
Falcon (E1 5b) Rpt 2nd
Followed by faffing, not trying Vulcan and the bailing from Pincushion
In reply to Dandan:
UKC Fit Club week 446
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of
physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here:http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: Suggestion please! I've not really seen any vids this
week...
Fitclubber of the week award – I couldn't possibly!
Ian Bell - Sounds like the 3 bouldering sessions is manageable so far, good work
biscuit - Good idea to work your weaknesses and get on the steep, it's my favourite angle!
The Ex-Engineer - Good week of volume, where do you fancy for your sport climbing trip?
flopsicle - CAC event sounds good, What did you pick up from Diane Merrick?
Joyce - I never know where to start with you, such a busy week, good job all round i'd say!
Nick Russell - Great week, lots of good ticks, keep us informed about that film
mattrm - That link is pretty inspirational, he's lost my weight 2 and half times over!
AJM - Well done on the big ride, got another one planned? Tom's training sounds great, i'm really tempted...
Dandan82 - get some proper training done!
hms - Glad youve been sensible and the shoulder is on the mend, further good mending progress i hope?
Ally Smith - Well done on drag queen, I hope you are back on track injury-wise
Exile - A couple of successful training cycles should see current projects fall easy!
Just Tintin - Congrats on the new house!
Richard Popp - Decent looking week to me, I hope the work doesnt get in the way too much.
0.5viking - 2 days to learn to indoor climb?! My introduction lasted about 15 minutes!
Tyler - Massive breakthrough sounds good, dont let the wallpaper stripping get you down!
UKC Fit Club week 446
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of
physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here:http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: Suggestion please! I've not really seen any vids this
week...
Fitclubber of the week award – I couldn't possibly!
Ian Bell - Sounds like the 3 bouldering sessions is manageable so far, good work
biscuit - Good idea to work your weaknesses and get on the steep, it's my favourite angle!
The Ex-Engineer - Good week of volume, where do you fancy for your sport climbing trip?
flopsicle - CAC event sounds good, What did you pick up from Diane Merrick?
Joyce - I never know where to start with you, such a busy week, good job all round i'd say!
Nick Russell - Great week, lots of good ticks, keep us informed about that film
mattrm - That link is pretty inspirational, he's lost my weight 2 and half times over!
AJM - Well done on the big ride, got another one planned? Tom's training sounds great, i'm really tempted...
Dandan82 - get some proper training done!
hms - Glad youve been sensible and the shoulder is on the mend, further good mending progress i hope?
Ally Smith - Well done on drag queen, I hope you are back on track injury-wise
Exile - A couple of successful training cycles should see current projects fall easy!
Just Tintin - Congrats on the new house!
Richard Popp - Decent looking week to me, I hope the work doesnt get in the way too much.
0.5viking - 2 days to learn to indoor climb?! My introduction lasted about 15 minutes!
Tyler - Massive breakthrough sounds good, dont let the wallpaper stripping get you down!
In reply to Dandan:
http://humanrace.co.uk/events/cycling/dragon-tour next June. About 350km sideways and 5km vertically over 3 days. Going to have to put some solid training in.
I think its good to have that extra degree of quantification to help work out what you're good and bad at. Plus having someone else set me a plan makes me try harder to meet it.
A solid week this week. I was meant to be maxing out on 1on1off sessions as a last minute boost before the taper for Kaly starts.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - tried some foot-on-campus laddering. Body was just knackered so very poor quality. Took Ally's advice and rested in the evening.
Wednesday - far better foc in the morning - new pb of 115 seconds. After work I went to the wall and did a solid capacity:power session and a good 1on1off too.
Thursday - double 1on1off session. Tried hard.
Friday - nipped in for a very quick 1on1off before driving up to the Wye. Battered, had to drop the intensity. Fingers sore.
Saturday - short bouldering session at Huntsham. Showed a bunch of people around, repeated old favourites up to V5. Had about 2 goes on Ames Low but didn't have the time to re-remember the exact foot sequence. I used to have that problem so wired. I was pleased that on Golden Bicep sitter I definitely felt stronger on the moves than on any previous goes, which is a nice reference point for improvement.
Sunday - cider making day. Lots of lugging around of apples and scripting and pressing them. Have a good haul of apple juice to make cider from as well as a bit of pear juice to top up the perry we have on the go and nearly 2kg of damsons which will be put to good use.
> AJM - Well done on the big ride, got another one planned? Tom's training sounds great, i'm really tempted...
http://humanrace.co.uk/events/cycling/dragon-tour next June. About 350km sideways and 5km vertically over 3 days. Going to have to put some solid training in.
I think its good to have that extra degree of quantification to help work out what you're good and bad at. Plus having someone else set me a plan makes me try harder to meet it.
A solid week this week. I was meant to be maxing out on 1on1off sessions as a last minute boost before the taper for Kaly starts.
Monday - rest
Tuesday - tried some foot-on-campus laddering. Body was just knackered so very poor quality. Took Ally's advice and rested in the evening.
Wednesday - far better foc in the morning - new pb of 115 seconds. After work I went to the wall and did a solid capacity:power session and a good 1on1off too.
Thursday - double 1on1off session. Tried hard.
Friday - nipped in for a very quick 1on1off before driving up to the Wye. Battered, had to drop the intensity. Fingers sore.
Saturday - short bouldering session at Huntsham. Showed a bunch of people around, repeated old favourites up to V5. Had about 2 goes on Ames Low but didn't have the time to re-remember the exact foot sequence. I used to have that problem so wired. I was pleased that on Golden Bicep sitter I definitely felt stronger on the moves than on any previous goes, which is a nice reference point for improvement.
Sunday - cider making day. Lots of lugging around of apples and scripting and pressing them. Have a good haul of apple juice to make cider from as well as a bit of pear juice to top up the perry we have on the go and nearly 2kg of damsons which will be put to good use.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 6lbs (1lbs gain)
M - DIY
T - Indoor routes
W - DIY
T - 200 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 300 dish tucks
S - DIY (building a wall
Monthly Avg - 100%
Yearly Avg - 66%
Vid recommendation - vimeo.com/137870406
Been rebuilding/fixing the stone wall in my back garden today and yesterday. So feeling pretty knackered right now. Lots of lifting and carrying of bags of mortar, watering cans, stones, bags of rocks and the like. Got out on Tuesday, it was a good session. Hope to keep them up. And that's it. Sleep beckons.
Goals from last week:
Thickness and flatten 3 more planks for back of cupboard - 1 plank.... ugh.... 2 more to go....
5k run - nope
2 x 500 dish tuck sessions - 2x 300 dish tucks
1 climbing session - yesssssss
Goals for next week:
Thickness and flatten last two planks
5k run
2x350 disk tuck sessions
1 climbing session.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 6lbs (1lbs gain)
M - DIY
T - Indoor routes
W - DIY
T - 200 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 300 dish tucks
S - DIY (building a wall
Monthly Avg - 100%
Yearly Avg - 66%
Vid recommendation - vimeo.com/137870406
Been rebuilding/fixing the stone wall in my back garden today and yesterday. So feeling pretty knackered right now. Lots of lifting and carrying of bags of mortar, watering cans, stones, bags of rocks and the like. Got out on Tuesday, it was a good session. Hope to keep them up. And that's it. Sleep beckons.
Goals from last week:
Thickness and flatten 3 more planks for back of cupboard - 1 plank.... ugh.... 2 more to go....
5k run - nope
2 x 500 dish tuck sessions - 2x 300 dish tucks
1 climbing session - yesssssss
Goals for next week:
Thickness and flatten last two planks
5k run
2x350 disk tuck sessions
1 climbing session.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to me for doing the stats, decent enough week for me, although this dull ache in the left elbow is really hanging around...
M: Aerocap Routes 3 x 15mins, achey elbow was bugging me so I went for a low intensity session, elbow didn't affect the climbing but it remained stubbornly achey throughout. As resting hadn't worked, I can sometimes climb gently to ease out the ache but no joy with that either.
T: Strength and conditioning + exercise ball core; both of these sessions take me about 40 minutes and leave me wanting more so I thought I would combine them, hard work!
W: Sacked off climbing to try and rest elbow a bit more, mega DOMS from yesterday!
T: Exploratory fingerboard session after discussing Mr Randall's test rung, turns out I've lost a lot of finger strength, could only 1 second hang a rung that I could previously hang for 10 seconds, much work to be done here. To be fair I've not touched a fingerboard since March.
F: nowt
S: DIY club, fitted wardrobe is nearly finished! Also learned a neat tip, wax your saw blades for much smoother cutting, couldn't believe how well it worked.
S: Winspit; Back for my wife's 7a proj which she made awesome progress on, all moves sorted, started linking it together. Did 4+,6a+,7a,7a,7a+, trying to fill in the gaps in my logbook and get a clean sweep on quarryman's wall.
Onsighted I Thought You Had It! (7a), pretty decent climb although a little eliminate with a 6a+ just to it's left.
Had a bash at Solstice (7b) at the far left of the quarry, it's right next to Avenging the Halsewell (7b) which I loved, but it's quite a different climb. Wandering and very sequencey, there was no way I was going to get the onsight, but it will go next time, pretty solid for the grade. I would have had another shot that day but we ran out of time. Elbow mildly achey after.
I didn't manage most of the sessions on my training plan, but the core/conditioning sessions hit me harder than I expected so I needed more rest before repeating, and this damn achey elbow is stopping me from climbing too hard.
I'm wondering if a sports massage might ease it out, it's that or start doing some more bicep/chin-up type exercise to push through it, my biceps have definitely had an easy time of it recently. I did a one-arm lock off yesterday (on the good right arm) to retrieve the first draw over a cave for my mate, I can really feel it today, when I'm on form, a single lock off shouldn't have that effect on me! More work needed.
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance!
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall
Sort out dull elbow ache
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
LTG: Still thinking...
Thanks to me for doing the stats, decent enough week for me, although this dull ache in the left elbow is really hanging around...
M: Aerocap Routes 3 x 15mins, achey elbow was bugging me so I went for a low intensity session, elbow didn't affect the climbing but it remained stubbornly achey throughout. As resting hadn't worked, I can sometimes climb gently to ease out the ache but no joy with that either.
T: Strength and conditioning + exercise ball core; both of these sessions take me about 40 minutes and leave me wanting more so I thought I would combine them, hard work!
W: Sacked off climbing to try and rest elbow a bit more, mega DOMS from yesterday!
T: Exploratory fingerboard session after discussing Mr Randall's test rung, turns out I've lost a lot of finger strength, could only 1 second hang a rung that I could previously hang for 10 seconds, much work to be done here. To be fair I've not touched a fingerboard since March.
F: nowt
S: DIY club, fitted wardrobe is nearly finished! Also learned a neat tip, wax your saw blades for much smoother cutting, couldn't believe how well it worked.
S: Winspit; Back for my wife's 7a proj which she made awesome progress on, all moves sorted, started linking it together. Did 4+,6a+,7a,7a,7a+, trying to fill in the gaps in my logbook and get a clean sweep on quarryman's wall.
Onsighted I Thought You Had It! (7a), pretty decent climb although a little eliminate with a 6a+ just to it's left.
Had a bash at Solstice (7b) at the far left of the quarry, it's right next to Avenging the Halsewell (7b) which I loved, but it's quite a different climb. Wandering and very sequencey, there was no way I was going to get the onsight, but it will go next time, pretty solid for the grade. I would have had another shot that day but we ran out of time. Elbow mildly achey after.
I didn't manage most of the sessions on my training plan, but the core/conditioning sessions hit me harder than I expected so I needed more rest before repeating, and this damn achey elbow is stopping me from climbing too hard.
I'm wondering if a sports massage might ease it out, it's that or start doing some more bicep/chin-up type exercise to push through it, my biceps have definitely had an easy time of it recently. I did a one-arm lock off yesterday (on the good right arm) to retrieve the first draw over a cave for my mate, I can really feel it today, when I'm on form, a single lock off shouldn't have that effect on me! More work needed.
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance!
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall
Sort out dull elbow ache
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
LTG: Still thinking...
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dan! Yep, will update on the film when it comes out. Another great week here feeling pretty sore today.
M - 6km run. Tried to increase pace through kms 2-5 but went out too hard on 4 and pace dropped for 5.
T - TCA. Short session, found a 6C on the Mothership that I can work on next time.
W - 15km run. Haven't done that distance for a while! Definitely flagging by the end.
T - Bloc. Another short session.
F - Rest. (Long drive to the Peak district.)
S - Stanage, High Neb end. Knocked Quietus off my 'unfinished business' list! (but added Old Friends to it.) Soloing included High Neb Buttress and Kelly's Overhang.
S - Curbar, first time I'd climbed there so had the pick of classics to go at. Peapod, L'Horla, Elder Crack, The Toy
As with any classic route, I'm disappointed to lose the onsight of Old Friends, can't get that back. On the other hand, I was feeling good and had convinced myself it didn't look that bad: if I don't push it a bit in that situation, I'll never try anything hard! I'm now confident that it'll go fine if/when I come back for it, but I just faffed a bit too much on the day.
> Nick Russell - Great week, lots of good ticks, keep us informed about that film
Thanks for the stats Dan! Yep, will update on the film when it comes out. Another great week here feeling pretty sore today.
M - 6km run. Tried to increase pace through kms 2-5 but went out too hard on 4 and pace dropped for 5.
T - TCA. Short session, found a 6C on the Mothership that I can work on next time.
W - 15km run. Haven't done that distance for a while! Definitely flagging by the end.
T - Bloc. Another short session.
F - Rest. (Long drive to the Peak district.)
S - Stanage, High Neb end. Knocked Quietus off my 'unfinished business' list! (but added Old Friends to it.) Soloing included High Neb Buttress and Kelly's Overhang.
S - Curbar, first time I'd climbed there so had the pick of classics to go at. Peapod, L'Horla, Elder Crack, The Toy
As with any classic route, I'm disappointed to lose the onsight of Old Friends, can't get that back. On the other hand, I was feeling good and had convinced myself it didn't look that bad: if I don't push it a bit in that situation, I'll never try anything hard! I'm now confident that it'll go fine if/when I come back for it, but I just faffed a bit too much on the day.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats. Oh yes, 'Sensible' is my middle name. Maybe. Anyway, good week with 2 outdoor sessions & 2 7b ticks - haven't done that in a week since Kaly, but the style couldn't have been more different.
M - cycle commute. Cycle on to city centre to see Nina. She is adamant that the shoulder is not too serious, although needing care & sensible handling to stop it heading that way. Pummulled me mercilessly.
T - cycle commute. shoulder rehab.
W - cycle commute. Afternoon at Armistice. Finished sorting the moves on Dynamism... and then got it first lead attempt. Found a way around the move that had annoyed my shoulder by using a thumb catch & foot bounce rather than a stretched out gaston. Top moves are using v small crimps and a stupidly high foot - most unlikely but works a dream.
T - cycle commute. SHoulder rehab. Planks (urgh - I hate planks)
F - tentative TCA session. Kept off steep stuff and kept the grade and intensity right down. Even so, not great. Problem seems to be jumping off, where one naturally flaps the arms up and down a bit when landing. Think I may have to give bouldering at any level a complete miss for a few more weeks.
S - couple of miles walk. Shoulder rehab. More planks.
S - Uphill Quarry to retry a 7b I just missed last year. Reworked the moves on TR, then shot up it 1st lead. Felt easy - once I'd started off never doubted I'd get it - but is my best style: sharp crimps and tiny/highly position dependant feet. Unfortunately, I reckon that style is also incredibly hard to OS, hence my track record on this style of working a route then getting it clean 1st lead.
Will continue to be sensible this week, but see if I can throw some fingerboarding into the mix and maybe a gentle indoor routes session although steep probably still best avoided.
Thanks for the stats. Oh yes, 'Sensible' is my middle name. Maybe. Anyway, good week with 2 outdoor sessions & 2 7b ticks - haven't done that in a week since Kaly, but the style couldn't have been more different.
M - cycle commute. Cycle on to city centre to see Nina. She is adamant that the shoulder is not too serious, although needing care & sensible handling to stop it heading that way. Pummulled me mercilessly.
T - cycle commute. shoulder rehab.
W - cycle commute. Afternoon at Armistice. Finished sorting the moves on Dynamism... and then got it first lead attempt. Found a way around the move that had annoyed my shoulder by using a thumb catch & foot bounce rather than a stretched out gaston. Top moves are using v small crimps and a stupidly high foot - most unlikely but works a dream.
T - cycle commute. SHoulder rehab. Planks (urgh - I hate planks)
F - tentative TCA session. Kept off steep stuff and kept the grade and intensity right down. Even so, not great. Problem seems to be jumping off, where one naturally flaps the arms up and down a bit when landing. Think I may have to give bouldering at any level a complete miss for a few more weeks.
S - couple of miles walk. Shoulder rehab. More planks.
S - Uphill Quarry to retry a 7b I just missed last year. Reworked the moves on TR, then shot up it 1st lead. Felt easy - once I'd started off never doubted I'd get it - but is my best style: sharp crimps and tiny/highly position dependant feet. Unfortunately, I reckon that style is also incredibly hard to OS, hence my track record on this style of working a route then getting it clean 1st lead.
Will continue to be sensible this week, but see if I can throw some fingerboarding into the mix and maybe a gentle indoor routes session although steep probably still best avoided.
Post edited at 09:21
1
In reply to Dandan:
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
W – Bouldering at Urban Ascent, good session. Ticked off the rest of the V0-1 circuit (apart from 1 that was busy) and the V1-V3 circuit (apart from a crazy dino one). Managed 3 of the V2-V4 I hadn’t done before, only 1 left now. Did 2 of the V3-V6 circuit although both in the lower end of that range, V3-V6 is a pretty wide boulder circuit!
F – checked out the new Arch building in Burnt Oak. It’s massive, almost the same size as the other 2 arches put together. Did all (c20) of the V1-V2 as a warm up. Then did c8 ish of the V2-V4 and one of the V3-V5 (and fell off lots more of them).
Sun – went to Colehill Quarry near Matlock for sport. Did 5+, 6a+, 6b+ (ish) OS to warm up. Got on the only 7b there, managed the lower crux but got shut down on the brutal top crux, rest was fine. Escaped off onto the 7a. Then had a rest and fired off the 7a, first go as a consolation, can’t really claim a flash as the crux of the 7a was the same as the first crux on the 7b (they share the first 2 clips). Nice that 7a felt easy but a bit frustrating the 7b crux was so hard!
Decent week. Next week likely to be slack climbing wise as have a few social events and on holiday for the weekend so going to only manage 1 day.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
W – Bouldering at Urban Ascent, good session. Ticked off the rest of the V0-1 circuit (apart from 1 that was busy) and the V1-V3 circuit (apart from a crazy dino one). Managed 3 of the V2-V4 I hadn’t done before, only 1 left now. Did 2 of the V3-V6 circuit although both in the lower end of that range, V3-V6 is a pretty wide boulder circuit!
F – checked out the new Arch building in Burnt Oak. It’s massive, almost the same size as the other 2 arches put together. Did all (c20) of the V1-V2 as a warm up. Then did c8 ish of the V2-V4 and one of the V3-V5 (and fell off lots more of them).
Sun – went to Colehill Quarry near Matlock for sport. Did 5+, 6a+, 6b+ (ish) OS to warm up. Got on the only 7b there, managed the lower crux but got shut down on the brutal top crux, rest was fine. Escaped off onto the 7a. Then had a rest and fired off the 7a, first go as a consolation, can’t really claim a flash as the crux of the 7a was the same as the first crux on the 7b (they share the first 2 clips). Nice that 7a felt easy but a bit frustrating the 7b crux was so hard!
Decent week. Next week likely to be slack climbing wise as have a few social events and on holiday for the weekend so going to only manage 1 day.
In reply to Dandan:
Good week; upped volume of training with no ill effect ton shoulder, though I’m not about to stop the rehab! Weekend was spent scoping out projects, though finding either dry in the coming weeks is questionable?
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Well Done finish, 8b (unlikely to find it dry again though?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Start some gradual weight loss
- Rehab
- Taming the Lion, E6 6c/7c+
- Do some proper core training.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight.
Last week:
M - boxed. All time glycogen low. Stretching and rehab only.
T - FB5: new PBs on crimp & back-3. 10x 60s on/60s off FO campus. Noticeable drop in aerobic fitness since summer. Shoulder tolerated it very well though.
W - Harmers Wood; vert sandstone ledge shuffling. A dozen problems from 5+ to 7A+.
T - Nothing.
F - Early morning FO campus aero-cap. 15x 60s on/60s off. Concentrating on scap setting before engaging grip.
S - Malham. Got back on Well Done Finish. Did all the moves and some big links again with a couple of sequence tweaks to make the start shoulder friendly.
S - Headpoint project #1. TRx2. Dog, then in a oner; f7c-ish (easier than Remembrance though hms!) Gear fits in the “OK” but not great category. Maybe I should buy some new RP/IMPs to up the breaking strain of my >10 year old wires!?
Good week; upped volume of training with no ill effect ton shoulder, though I’m not about to stop the rehab! Weekend was spent scoping out projects, though finding either dry in the coming weeks is questionable?
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Well Done finish, 8b (unlikely to find it dry again though?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Start some gradual weight loss
- Rehab
- Taming the Lion, E6 6c/7c+
- Do some proper core training.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight.
Last week:
M - boxed. All time glycogen low. Stretching and rehab only.
T - FB5: new PBs on crimp & back-3. 10x 60s on/60s off FO campus. Noticeable drop in aerobic fitness since summer. Shoulder tolerated it very well though.
W - Harmers Wood; vert sandstone ledge shuffling. A dozen problems from 5+ to 7A+.
T - Nothing.
F - Early morning FO campus aero-cap. 15x 60s on/60s off. Concentrating on scap setting before engaging grip.
S - Malham. Got back on Well Done Finish. Did all the moves and some big links again with a couple of sequence tweaks to make the start shoulder friendly.
S - Headpoint project #1. TRx2. Dog, then in a oner; f7c-ish (easier than Remembrance though hms!) Gear fits in the “OK” but not great category. Maybe I should buy some new RP/IMPs to up the breaking strain of my >10 year old wires!?
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the thread Dandan!
The coaching with Diane Merrick was excellent - I just wish I'd been a bit fresher for it. I think the thing that's stuck is a different way of approaching dynos; to get high to have a look/make decisions, drop low and then to try to throw hips where hands are going (obviously visualising as to actually chuck hips that far would be weird!). It's the second bit of coaching input I've had on dynos and between them it feels like I have a start. I still struggle to get air borne though! Shr also suggested 'bouncing' up easier climbs as part of a warm up but my head hasn't really got that bit sorted, I don't think my bouncing is bouncy!
Mon - School run (1.4 mile) then 2.3 mile proper lunch run. 8.5 mile bike ride.
Tues - School run. Cycle to Trent bridge and back again 5.5 miles - hilly. At trent bridge I worked on the traverse and noticed the gains over the last year, still ashamed to say I didn't get it but I'm adopting it as a goal/project as it ain't going anywhere any time soon. I worked the traverse for about 2 hrs.
Weds - School run + run back from bike repair shop after dropping bike off - 1 mile uphill! 2 hrs climbing, lots of exercises like hands free, dyno practice and trying to get some more hands free moves on the steeper slab, did a couple of proper routes for fun too and some leading.
Thurs - 2.3 mile run.
Fri - rest and goose fair - almost won a deadhang challenge for £20 at the fair. You had to hang for 2 mins but the trap was that it was a spinning bar! I managed 1:47, which led to just about every meat head watching pulling their money out (uh- if middle aged lass can get that close...). My pal wanted to stay and watch, I think they thought I was a witch! The guy running the stall gave Munchkin a HUGE minion - he was well happy!
Sat - rest, kiddy party.
Sun - 9 miles on the bike, 2 hrs climbing.
Goals! Yay I have one! Trent Bridge traverse both ways.
Fails - I didn't do much homework, actually none!
Question - how do you set time span for goals? I never really know what time I'll get each week or how long something 'should' take so haven't a clue how to set a good timespan that isn't just off the top of my head.
Thanks for the thread Dandan!
The coaching with Diane Merrick was excellent - I just wish I'd been a bit fresher for it. I think the thing that's stuck is a different way of approaching dynos; to get high to have a look/make decisions, drop low and then to try to throw hips where hands are going (obviously visualising as to actually chuck hips that far would be weird!). It's the second bit of coaching input I've had on dynos and between them it feels like I have a start. I still struggle to get air borne though! Shr also suggested 'bouncing' up easier climbs as part of a warm up but my head hasn't really got that bit sorted, I don't think my bouncing is bouncy!
Mon - School run (1.4 mile) then 2.3 mile proper lunch run. 8.5 mile bike ride.
Tues - School run. Cycle to Trent bridge and back again 5.5 miles - hilly. At trent bridge I worked on the traverse and noticed the gains over the last year, still ashamed to say I didn't get it but I'm adopting it as a goal/project as it ain't going anywhere any time soon. I worked the traverse for about 2 hrs.
Weds - School run + run back from bike repair shop after dropping bike off - 1 mile uphill! 2 hrs climbing, lots of exercises like hands free, dyno practice and trying to get some more hands free moves on the steeper slab, did a couple of proper routes for fun too and some leading.
Thurs - 2.3 mile run.
Fri - rest and goose fair - almost won a deadhang challenge for £20 at the fair. You had to hang for 2 mins but the trap was that it was a spinning bar! I managed 1:47, which led to just about every meat head watching pulling their money out (uh- if middle aged lass can get that close...). My pal wanted to stay and watch, I think they thought I was a witch! The guy running the stall gave Munchkin a HUGE minion - he was well happy!
Sat - rest, kiddy party.
Sun - 9 miles on the bike, 2 hrs climbing.
Goals! Yay I have one! Trent Bridge traverse both ways.
Fails - I didn't do much homework, actually none!
Question - how do you set time span for goals? I never really know what time I'll get each week or how long something 'should' take so haven't a clue how to set a good timespan that isn't just off the top of my head.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Making Remembrance sound even more clearly 7c! Need to get back on it, but D1 had had enough of Armistice. Vaguely wondered if I need to invest in a Mr Shunt although always fought shy of the concept.
Making Remembrance sound even more clearly 7c! Need to get back on it, but D1 had had enough of Armistice. Vaguely wondered if I need to invest in a Mr Shunt although always fought shy of the concept.
In reply to hms:
No need for a Shunt; for minimal use, a Grigri works fine as self top-rope device.
Otherwise, i can lend you a micro-traction at the weekend?
No need for a Shunt; for minimal use, a Grigri works fine as self top-rope device.
Otherwise, i can lend you a micro-traction at the weekend?
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club Dan.
Exile - A couple of successful training cycles should see current projects fall easy! - We'll see - hopefully a change will be as good as a rest!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest
T: pm - 1hr 30min warm up, finger board and a couple of PE traverses (Contact strength)
W: am - 1hr 5min road ride. Bloody cold! (winter endurance)
T: pm - 1hr 30min. Two plays on Crimes of Passion (7a, Scout Scar)
F: am - 40min dry tooling traverses, first session of the season. (ARC, Winter Technique)
S: am - 1hr road run - tedious! (Winter endurance)
S: pm - 1hr 30min couple of goes remembering the moves on Crimes of Passion (7a, Scout Scar) then it went first RP. A good end to the week!
A great week. Great to do a 7a pretty quickly - clipping the chain on the last day of good weather as the sun set was a great feeling.
Thanks for doing fit club Dan.
Exile - A couple of successful training cycles should see current projects fall easy! - We'll see - hopefully a change will be as good as a rest!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest
T: pm - 1hr 30min warm up, finger board and a couple of PE traverses (Contact strength)
W: am - 1hr 5min road ride. Bloody cold! (winter endurance)
T: pm - 1hr 30min. Two plays on Crimes of Passion (7a, Scout Scar)
F: am - 40min dry tooling traverses, first session of the season. (ARC, Winter Technique)
S: am - 1hr road run - tedious! (Winter endurance)
S: pm - 1hr 30min couple of goes remembering the moves on Crimes of Passion (7a, Scout Scar) then it went first RP. A good end to the week!
A great week. Great to do a 7a pretty quickly - clipping the chain on the last day of good weather as the sun set was a great feeling.
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan, back from the wilderness (well the off season and then Portugal) right back into the deep end this week:
Week 444
M: pm 8/9M in 55:31 felt good, went too hard
Tu: sore (see above), fly to Portugal, pm - 8/9M steady in 59:19
W: am - 5M steady in 35:08
Th: am - road session: 5 x 6min off 90 jog with the wife (5:35-5:50 miling) 9/10M total
F: am - 8M steady in 55:03
Sa: am - road session: 30min tempo (6:00 min miling) v hot but the wife was going well 9/10M
Su: am - 12/13M steady in 1:27:07 v hot!
60M Total getting back into it, a couple of sessions with the wife to help her marathon prep
Week 445
M: am - 7/8M Steady in 51:22, pm - 4/5M easy in 30:24
Tu: am - 8M Steady in 57:38
W: am - Grass Session on the XC course: 2 x (3min,4min,5min) @ 10K,1/2mara and mara effort off 1min between reps and 2min between sets. Was helping the wife out again and managed two sets plus the 3min rep on her 3rd set. 9M pm - 4/5M easy in 29:45
Th: am - 8/9M Steady in 56:24
F: pm - a run on my own, went to hard! 6/7M in 42:35
Sa: Road session (v early!). 2 x 3M loop (one at mara pace + 10secs per mile, one at mara pace) momentary stop between loops for a drink. The loop was quite hilly so found it tough. My wife was going really well (did an extra loop) and running strong so v positive
Su: am - sore! 6M easy in 46:42 hot!
68M Total and some good tempo sessions, wifes marathon prep coming together well
Week 446
M: am - 6M easy in 45:04 then fly back to UK
Tu: Flew to Glasgow & Back for work - long day! Tired
W: Tired! pm - Road session 2 x 15min tempo with 5mins jog between averaged 5:30 pace and covered nearly 5.5M on the tempo without it feeling desperate so happy enough with that. 10M total
Th: am - jog to work 2/3M in 17:54, pm - run home 5/6M in 40:20
F: am - jog to work 2/3M in 17:54 + strides
Sa: National 6 Stage Road Relays @ Sutton Park. Prefect conditions and time to see what sort of shape I was in after 3 weeks training and only some tempo running. Got put on leg 1 which is very competitive and it showed! Ran hard, it felt hard and finished 45th on the leg with 18:43 for the 5.848K (5:08 miling, the course is not flat) so happy enough but plenty of work to do! Team finished 14th in the end but we were never really in it. 9/10M total
Su: Glorious morning! Did 12/13M in 1:25:03 and body felt ok after yesterdays race
Total 48M, time to start and get my head down now for proper winter training. Also need to find some scales and weigh myself because I've put on a bit of weight and that now needs to come off!
Hi Dan, back from the wilderness (well the off season and then Portugal) right back into the deep end this week:
Week 444
M: pm 8/9M in 55:31 felt good, went too hard
Tu: sore (see above), fly to Portugal, pm - 8/9M steady in 59:19
W: am - 5M steady in 35:08
Th: am - road session: 5 x 6min off 90 jog with the wife (5:35-5:50 miling) 9/10M total
F: am - 8M steady in 55:03
Sa: am - road session: 30min tempo (6:00 min miling) v hot but the wife was going well 9/10M
Su: am - 12/13M steady in 1:27:07 v hot!
60M Total getting back into it, a couple of sessions with the wife to help her marathon prep
Week 445
M: am - 7/8M Steady in 51:22, pm - 4/5M easy in 30:24
Tu: am - 8M Steady in 57:38
W: am - Grass Session on the XC course: 2 x (3min,4min,5min) @ 10K,1/2mara and mara effort off 1min between reps and 2min between sets. Was helping the wife out again and managed two sets plus the 3min rep on her 3rd set. 9M pm - 4/5M easy in 29:45
Th: am - 8/9M Steady in 56:24
F: pm - a run on my own, went to hard! 6/7M in 42:35
Sa: Road session (v early!). 2 x 3M loop (one at mara pace + 10secs per mile, one at mara pace) momentary stop between loops for a drink. The loop was quite hilly so found it tough. My wife was going really well (did an extra loop) and running strong so v positive
Su: am - sore! 6M easy in 46:42 hot!
68M Total and some good tempo sessions, wifes marathon prep coming together well
Week 446
M: am - 6M easy in 45:04 then fly back to UK
Tu: Flew to Glasgow & Back for work - long day! Tired
W: Tired! pm - Road session 2 x 15min tempo with 5mins jog between averaged 5:30 pace and covered nearly 5.5M on the tempo without it feeling desperate so happy enough with that. 10M total
Th: am - jog to work 2/3M in 17:54, pm - run home 5/6M in 40:20
F: am - jog to work 2/3M in 17:54 + strides
Sa: National 6 Stage Road Relays @ Sutton Park. Prefect conditions and time to see what sort of shape I was in after 3 weeks training and only some tempo running. Got put on leg 1 which is very competitive and it showed! Ran hard, it felt hard and finished 45th on the leg with 18:43 for the 5.848K (5:08 miling, the course is not flat) so happy enough but plenty of work to do! Team finished 14th in the end but we were never really in it. 9/10M total
Su: Glorious morning! Did 12/13M in 1:25:03 and body felt ok after yesterdays race
Total 48M, time to start and get my head down now for proper winter training. Also need to find some scales and weigh myself because I've put on a bit of weight and that now needs to come off!
1
In reply to Exile:
A one hour road run could never be tedious, you're obviously running in the wrong place !! A three hour run on the other hand........
A one hour road run could never be tedious, you're obviously running in the wrong place !! A three hour run on the other hand........
In reply to Dandan: Cheers Dan
Missed last week because it was my first week back at uni so I didn't make much time for climbing!
This week wasn't great either but I got a bit of stuff done - my friend has come up with a car this year so things are looking much better for getting out in Northumberland. Would've climbed more but came down with some nasty fresher's flu.
Mon - first session back at Climb Newcastle - bought an annual pass! Might not even be a great financial investment if I'm getting out more on rock this year, but at least it gives me motivation to get down to the wall! Went round the 6a-7a circuit and struggled, the setting style will take a bit of time for readjustment.
Tue - Sat - Not feeling great so didn't bother making it any worse!
Sun - Managed to get out bouldering at Shaftoe Crags. Warmed up on some easy stuff, flashed a 6C traverse, then failed to do Timmy Tip Toes 7A+ over and over again - so very knacky!
Looking forward to getting back out on the sandstone again, there's a lot of potential! But then again apparently the exams in second year are the hardest written exams in med school, plus there's all sorts of social things going on so it's going to be all about finding that balance - we'll see how it goes!
Cheers, Jake
Missed last week because it was my first week back at uni so I didn't make much time for climbing!
This week wasn't great either but I got a bit of stuff done - my friend has come up with a car this year so things are looking much better for getting out in Northumberland. Would've climbed more but came down with some nasty fresher's flu.
Mon - first session back at Climb Newcastle - bought an annual pass! Might not even be a great financial investment if I'm getting out more on rock this year, but at least it gives me motivation to get down to the wall! Went round the 6a-7a circuit and struggled, the setting style will take a bit of time for readjustment.
Tue - Sat - Not feeling great so didn't bother making it any worse!
Sun - Managed to get out bouldering at Shaftoe Crags. Warmed up on some easy stuff, flashed a 6C traverse, then failed to do Timmy Tip Toes 7A+ over and over again - so very knacky!
Looking forward to getting back out on the sandstone again, there's a lot of potential! But then again apparently the exams in second year are the hardest written exams in med school, plus there's all sorts of social things going on so it's going to be all about finding that balance - we'll see how it goes!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Dan, that saw waxing tip sounds like a winner, will give it go next time. HMS, I'd be excited to go and have a play on Wave No White Flag and Remembrance one weekend/day in half term.
Training Diary WC 28/09/15
Home to Roost from Biblins (it’s the bats, see)
Monday – Bilbins Cave – usual warm up on The Bulge (7A) and then worked out and sent the moves from the knobbly pinch on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C) (STG goal ticked). Had a play on the moves to the pinch and got ‘em sorted not all linked – I have a sequence, I just need a much stronger core (any ideas), stronger fingers and for it to be next summer already when the bat ban lifts so that I can get back on it. Also, worked out the crux moves on a low traverse that links Schools Out for Summer into Pop For The Bulge – (7A into 7A+),
Tuesday – Run: progression intervals – 2x400m in 80s, 2x400m in 78s, 2x400m in 76s with 1m rests. Up or bang on on all reps – hard. Last run before a Parkrun on Saturday. Core and antagonistic exercises. Some DIYing in the evening.
Wednesday – Biblins Cave – last evening it’s open this summer. Repeated The Bulge (7A) thrice from 3 attempts as a warm up. Worked the moves of a low traverse from the start of Schools Out For Summer into The Bulge, got it in three sections but it’ll take a bit of effort next summer to send.
Thursday – TCA: played on some slopers, ticked a couple of yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and then did 40 mins of 1 on/1 off AeroPow on a 6b on the less steep board. Regularly on for over 2 mins – definitely getting less bad at this. Steady pump until 30 mins then arms ‘emptied’ of juice but still managed approx. 1 min reps.
Friday – Diggin’ an’ sleeperin’ two and a half hours.
Saturday – Little Stoke Parkrun: 5K in 18:21 at 3:40m/km pace. Was slowing steadily around the 3K mark when a fella blitzed past and, realising that this was my chance to get paced a bit, I hung onto his coat tails as best I could for the remaining 2K and he unwittingly dragged me a new PB by 17s - getting closer to that 18:00 target. 6 hours of hard digging.
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – onwards and downwards! Spent a great afternoon on The Slug at Huntsham – working The Loop (8a). Repeated Ames Wol (7A+/B) as a warm up, then sent it again. As Ames Wol is the last 20 odd moves of The Loop, I’ve started working the problem from the start of Ames Wol, moving 2 moves back towards the start after each successful go. Got to 4 added moves from the Ames Wol start (8 extra moves in total as it’s up then down The Flakes (5+) but began to run out of steam. Finished with 7 1 on: 3 off reps attempts of Ames High (7A+), Ames Wol and Ames Low (7A+) – didn’t’ finish any but made a good 12 to 20 moves on each one. Excellent friction and company.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb School Of Burl 7B – done - and School’s Out For Summer 7A+ at Biblins (also done), as well as the second half of Peckitt’s Traverse 7C from the pinch (done).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week as other stuff on.
Weight = 69.7kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Dan, that saw waxing tip sounds like a winner, will give it go next time. HMS, I'd be excited to go and have a play on Wave No White Flag and Remembrance one weekend/day in half term.
Training Diary WC 28/09/15
Home to Roost from Biblins (it’s the bats, see)
Monday – Bilbins Cave – usual warm up on The Bulge (7A) and then worked out and sent the moves from the knobbly pinch on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C) (STG goal ticked). Had a play on the moves to the pinch and got ‘em sorted not all linked – I have a sequence, I just need a much stronger core (any ideas), stronger fingers and for it to be next summer already when the bat ban lifts so that I can get back on it. Also, worked out the crux moves on a low traverse that links Schools Out for Summer into Pop For The Bulge – (7A into 7A+),
Tuesday – Run: progression intervals – 2x400m in 80s, 2x400m in 78s, 2x400m in 76s with 1m rests. Up or bang on on all reps – hard. Last run before a Parkrun on Saturday. Core and antagonistic exercises. Some DIYing in the evening.
Wednesday – Biblins Cave – last evening it’s open this summer. Repeated The Bulge (7A) thrice from 3 attempts as a warm up. Worked the moves of a low traverse from the start of Schools Out For Summer into The Bulge, got it in three sections but it’ll take a bit of effort next summer to send.
Thursday – TCA: played on some slopers, ticked a couple of yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and then did 40 mins of 1 on/1 off AeroPow on a 6b on the less steep board. Regularly on for over 2 mins – definitely getting less bad at this. Steady pump until 30 mins then arms ‘emptied’ of juice but still managed approx. 1 min reps.
Friday – Diggin’ an’ sleeperin’ two and a half hours.
Saturday – Little Stoke Parkrun: 5K in 18:21 at 3:40m/km pace. Was slowing steadily around the 3K mark when a fella blitzed past and, realising that this was my chance to get paced a bit, I hung onto his coat tails as best I could for the remaining 2K and he unwittingly dragged me a new PB by 17s - getting closer to that 18:00 target. 6 hours of hard digging.
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – onwards and downwards! Spent a great afternoon on The Slug at Huntsham – working The Loop (8a). Repeated Ames Wol (7A+/B) as a warm up, then sent it again. As Ames Wol is the last 20 odd moves of The Loop, I’ve started working the problem from the start of Ames Wol, moving 2 moves back towards the start after each successful go. Got to 4 added moves from the Ames Wol start (8 extra moves in total as it’s up then down The Flakes (5+) but began to run out of steam. Finished with 7 1 on: 3 off reps attempts of Ames High (7A+), Ames Wol and Ames Low (7A+) – didn’t’ finish any but made a good 12 to 20 moves on each one. Excellent friction and company.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb School Of Burl 7B – done - and School’s Out For Summer 7A+ at Biblins (also done), as well as the second half of Peckitt’s Traverse 7C from the pinch (done).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week as other stuff on.
Weight = 69.7kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Humperdink:
It is tedious if you come from a fell running background!
To be fair though through necessity it wasn't in the most beautiful of places, and in the fog.
It is tedious if you come from a fell running background!
To be fair though through necessity it wasn't in the most beautiful of places, and in the fog.
In reply to Joyce:
It's changed my life, I've been ripping down a lot of 9mm ply sheets (I just can't bring myself to shatter the peace with the circular saw) and they were jamming up all the time, now it's smooth as silk, makes things so much less frustrating.
> Dan, that saw waxing tip sounds like a winner, will give it go next time.
It's changed my life, I've been ripping down a lot of 9mm ply sheets (I just can't bring myself to shatter the peace with the circular saw) and they were jamming up all the time, now it's smooth as silk, makes things so much less frustrating.
In reply to Joyce:
You're on! I'll mail you. 1/2 term may be best. Luckily Rembrance & WNWF go to the same loweroff, so easy peasy to rig a rope for both.
You're on! I'll mail you. 1/2 term may be best. Luckily Rembrance & WNWF go to the same loweroff, so easy peasy to rig a rope for both.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Another crap week of training, but with surprisingly good results on the rock at the weekend. So I conclude that either a.) training is bad for me or b.) something weird is going on...
M – Work. Sang Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral then drinks in a livery company. Like you do.
T/W/T - knackered so nothing
F – Boulder Brookes
S – Trad Gardom’s. Knocked out some good HVSs and seconded the E4 project clean. Midged to pieces.
S – Boulder Gardom’s. Some good problems including V5 onsight… on grit!!! How?!
Forgot to say we go to Morocco in two weeks so I should have thought about some stamina by now for the 500m+ multipitch plans. Ah well...
Thanks Dan. Another crap week of training, but with surprisingly good results on the rock at the weekend. So I conclude that either a.) training is bad for me or b.) something weird is going on...
M – Work. Sang Evensong at St Paul’s Cathedral then drinks in a livery company. Like you do.
T/W/T - knackered so nothing
F – Boulder Brookes
S – Trad Gardom’s. Knocked out some good HVSs and seconded the E4 project clean. Midged to pieces.
S – Boulder Gardom’s. Some good problems including V5 onsight… on grit!!! How?!
Forgot to say we go to Morocco in two weeks so I should have thought about some stamina by now for the 500m+ multipitch plans. Ah well...
2
In reply to Dandan:
Off to Nepal for two and half weeks no climbing so need to get this down as a bench mark for when I come back. Weight 10 stone 6.
Goals:
<strike>Second Fifth</strike>
Single undercut circuit
Single GBH Circuit
Double undercut circuit
<strike>Three of the Outhouse benchmarks</strike>
SYT
OS 7b+ in Spain in Nov
Blue-orange
Toadal Recall
Baboo Baboo
Double GBH circuit
GBH
M - Wallpaper stripping
T - Longridge, got second fifth at last, didn't do much else
W - Travel with work
T - Harrogate Wall, got totally burnt off by mountaineer not long back from Himalayas, maybe this Nepal trip won't be too detremental after all! Mind you I failed to climb anything above 6c in a oner so its a low base
F - Wallpaper stripping
S - Wallpaper stripping followed by quick Outhouse session. Still can't do GBH circuit
S - Wall papaer stripping. Was gonig to go to Outhouse but as it'll be wintery when I get back I decide dto get last orders at Longridge. Did first fifth on third attempt. Bouldered on 'proper' Grow Wings (seemed possible leading with my left for the first time. Then got on second fifth as it got dark and did it easily. Very pleased as it had been a very physical weekend, fitter than ever, I am treating Thursday night as an aberration!
Off to Nepal for two and half weeks no climbing so need to get this down as a bench mark for when I come back. Weight 10 stone 6.
Goals:
<strike>Second Fifth</strike>
Single undercut circuit
Single GBH Circuit
Double undercut circuit
<strike>Three of the Outhouse benchmarks</strike>
SYT
OS 7b+ in Spain in Nov
Blue-orange
Toadal Recall
Baboo Baboo
Double GBH circuit
GBH
M - Wallpaper stripping
T - Longridge, got second fifth at last, didn't do much else
W - Travel with work
T - Harrogate Wall, got totally burnt off by mountaineer not long back from Himalayas, maybe this Nepal trip won't be too detremental after all! Mind you I failed to climb anything above 6c in a oner so its a low base
F - Wallpaper stripping
S - Wallpaper stripping followed by quick Outhouse session. Still can't do GBH circuit
S - Wall papaer stripping. Was gonig to go to Outhouse but as it'll be wintery when I get back I decide dto get last orders at Longridge. Did first fifth on third attempt. Bouldered on 'proper' Grow Wings (seemed possible leading with my left for the first time. Then got on second fifth as it got dark and did it easily. Very pleased as it had been a very physical weekend, fitter than ever, I am treating Thursday night as an aberration!
In reply to Dandan:
thanks to Dan et al, work has been getting in the way-both time wise and energy wise but moves and launches will be over this time next week and will be able to get back into a rhythm, just starting a course as well which is not too bad this year but will ramp up.
Just had to go with the flow this week-sack some sessions off but just go and do something at other times.
M- Stretching and rehab.
T-Sacked off TCA and just went for a swim, have a commitment in the evening and could have squeezed both before this in but am rushing all the time at the minute.
W-Stretching and rehab-
T- Good session at TCA, cant remember if did anything new but felt like I was moving better-taken a good few weeks to get into indoor bouldering again-brutal.
F-Nothing, long and ultimately frustrating day at work
S-Stretching and rehab, almost went for a run, but not quite, want to start running again, never really been much of a runner but would like to build up to an hour once a week.
S-after much prevarication went to Woodcroft quarry, never been there before-led 6a, 6a+, 6c first redpoint, 6c+ flash. very good day, never flashed 6c+ before, it was very soft but (in my tiny mind) half my issues at this level are mental and I did not actually know it was soft until I had clipped the chains, I had indeed watched two people slightly struggle on the top roof. Anyway, great day, up for it, put all the clips in, focussed and fired up.
Pyramid by mid December-overly ambitious and optimistic- 6c/+ 5/8. 7a 1/4, 7a+ 0/2, 7b 0/1- all done since July.
this week is difficult and I wont get out at the weekend, next week and there after much better, got a week off at the end of the month, not booked to go away, intending to climb in UK, maybe a flawed plan.
cheers
Rich
thanks to Dan et al, work has been getting in the way-both time wise and energy wise but moves and launches will be over this time next week and will be able to get back into a rhythm, just starting a course as well which is not too bad this year but will ramp up.
Just had to go with the flow this week-sack some sessions off but just go and do something at other times.
M- Stretching and rehab.
T-Sacked off TCA and just went for a swim, have a commitment in the evening and could have squeezed both before this in but am rushing all the time at the minute.
W-Stretching and rehab-
T- Good session at TCA, cant remember if did anything new but felt like I was moving better-taken a good few weeks to get into indoor bouldering again-brutal.
F-Nothing, long and ultimately frustrating day at work
S-Stretching and rehab, almost went for a run, but not quite, want to start running again, never really been much of a runner but would like to build up to an hour once a week.
S-after much prevarication went to Woodcroft quarry, never been there before-led 6a, 6a+, 6c first redpoint, 6c+ flash. very good day, never flashed 6c+ before, it was very soft but (in my tiny mind) half my issues at this level are mental and I did not actually know it was soft until I had clipped the chains, I had indeed watched two people slightly struggle on the top roof. Anyway, great day, up for it, put all the clips in, focussed and fired up.
Pyramid by mid December-overly ambitious and optimistic- 6c/+ 5/8. 7a 1/4, 7a+ 0/2, 7b 0/1- all done since July.
this week is difficult and I wont get out at the weekend, next week and there after much better, got a week off at the end of the month, not booked to go away, intending to climb in UK, maybe a flawed plan.
cheers
Rich
Post edited at 08:53
1
In reply to Solsbury:
The 6c+ wasn't Gunshot Wound to the Head by any chance was it? If so it's incredibly morpho - full on dyno in the middle for the short, a mere pop for the tall.
If you haven't tried it yet, there is a v good 7a in Woodcroft btw - Rippled & Toned. All about the feet...
The 6c+ wasn't Gunshot Wound to the Head by any chance was it? If so it's incredibly morpho - full on dyno in the middle for the short, a mere pop for the tall.
If you haven't tried it yet, there is a v good 7a in Woodcroft btw - Rippled & Toned. All about the feet...
In reply to hms:
I think I've done that one as well and would agree it seemed to have one 'bouncy' move in the middle. Seem to remember the roof at the top was definitely fall offable as well though...
I think I've done that one as well and would agree it seemed to have one 'bouncy' move in the middle. Seem to remember the roof at the top was definitely fall offable as well though...
In reply to hms: yup, twas that one, preferred the 6c next to it which went quickly. Saw ripped and toned, looked good, and also think there is a bunch of 6c/low 7s further round, imagine it could be good on a sunny winters day, good length rotes as well.
Rich
Rich
In reply to Just Tintin:
After feeling trashed after just 3 routes on Sat I badly need to get some more mileage in, so if you are short of a partner for routes, this week or next, please feel free to drop me a message.
> ... I should have thought about some stamina by now for the 500m+ multipitch plans. Ah well...
After feeling trashed after just 3 routes on Sat I badly need to get some more mileage in, so if you are short of a partner for routes, this week or next, please feel free to drop me a message.
In reply to Dandan:
Probably Spain. My climbing partner this weekend has been trying to sell me on Chulilla (I believe she is heading out there with some of the regulars from here).
> The Ex-Engineer - Good week of volume, where do you fancy for your sport climbing trip?
Probably Spain. My climbing partner this weekend has been trying to sell me on Chulilla (I believe she is heading out there with some of the regulars from here).
1
In reply to Exile:
Ah that's fair enough. If (like me) you don't know what your missing then you don't have that problem! Its what ipods were invented for.......
Ah that's fair enough. If (like me) you don't know what your missing then you don't have that problem! Its what ipods were invented for.......
In reply to Dandan:
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Fly to Kalymnos. Not enough time for an evening climb. Drank Mythos.
Thu - Went to School area, climbed some 4-5s, having never done outdoor sport climbing before, wanted to get used to the rock. Everything fairly easy. Drank Mythos.
Fri - Went to No match for crag id:22057 in the morning and Summertime Area in the afternoon - can't really perform in the heat. Highlight of the day probably Ammohostos Vasilevousa (6a). Drank Mythos. Ate Beef Styfado at Matheos's place in Masouri. Probably the friendliest restauranteur in Masouri ( though he has a lot of competition in this regard). The place is criminally quiet and deserves more business. Drank more Mythos.
Sat - Took the boat over to Telendos and climbed at No match for crag id:17714. Highlight of the day the crag's namesake route, Lambda (6b). Noted to get a longer rope for next year to try some of the extension routes. Drank Mythos.
Sun - Went up to No match for crag id:18412 and climbed a handful of routes with the intention of trying something steep in the Grande Grotta Area, but left this too late in the day. Attempted Swiss Baby (6a+) but fell just below the lower off. Drank Mythos.
All in all, Kalymnos a pretty amazing place. My climbing companions aren't really interested in the steep stuff, so I think I might go for an extra week next time to do some of the steeper routes and find someone else interested in that kind of thing. Didn't really feel physically stretched, but it's been great just to get on the rock and experience the climbing.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Fly to Kalymnos. Not enough time for an evening climb. Drank Mythos.
Thu - Went to School area, climbed some 4-5s, having never done outdoor sport climbing before, wanted to get used to the rock. Everything fairly easy. Drank Mythos.
Fri - Went to No match for crag id:22057 in the morning and Summertime Area in the afternoon - can't really perform in the heat. Highlight of the day probably Ammohostos Vasilevousa (6a). Drank Mythos. Ate Beef Styfado at Matheos's place in Masouri. Probably the friendliest restauranteur in Masouri ( though he has a lot of competition in this regard). The place is criminally quiet and deserves more business. Drank more Mythos.
Sat - Took the boat over to Telendos and climbed at No match for crag id:17714. Highlight of the day the crag's namesake route, Lambda (6b). Noted to get a longer rope for next year to try some of the extension routes. Drank Mythos.
Sun - Went up to No match for crag id:18412 and climbed a handful of routes with the intention of trying something steep in the Grande Grotta Area, but left this too late in the day. Attempted Swiss Baby (6a+) but fell just below the lower off. Drank Mythos.
All in all, Kalymnos a pretty amazing place. My climbing companions aren't really interested in the steep stuff, so I think I might go for an extra week next time to do some of the steeper routes and find someone else interested in that kind of thing. Didn't really feel physically stretched, but it's been great just to get on the rock and experience the climbing.
Post edited at 12:24
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing FC again Dan! Your 15 minute intro was that learning how to belay? Because I feel that learning to toprope- and lead-belay in just one weekend without previous experience is not enough, although people seem to manage fine.
Weight: 68.8kg
M: 1,5 hour bicycle ride to and from crag where I belayed a mate
T: rest/walk
W: bouldering outdoors with the youth group. To show them how to do route moves I got 4x 5C, 2x 6A and 2 different 6B’s and a 6B+.
T: running and some shoulders and core
F: rest
S: scrambling along a ridge, 2000 meter height difference, completely knackered afterwards
S: bouldering outdoors. Did a 5B as a warmup, then did all the moves on a 6A+, but didn’t dare the topout mantle due to DOMS in legs. Then worked on a 6C, but couldn’t manage the blind catch (reached high enough, just didn’t stick it).
Thanks for doing FC again Dan! Your 15 minute intro was that learning how to belay? Because I feel that learning to toprope- and lead-belay in just one weekend without previous experience is not enough, although people seem to manage fine.
Weight: 68.8kg
M: 1,5 hour bicycle ride to and from crag where I belayed a mate
T: rest/walk
W: bouldering outdoors with the youth group. To show them how to do route moves I got 4x 5C, 2x 6A and 2 different 6B’s and a 6B+.
T: running and some shoulders and core
F: rest
S: scrambling along a ridge, 2000 meter height difference, completely knackered afterwards
S: bouldering outdoors. Did a 5B as a warmup, then did all the moves on a 6A+, but didn’t dare the topout mantle due to DOMS in legs. Then worked on a 6C, but couldn’t manage the blind catch (reached high enough, just didn’t stick it).
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