UKC

NEWS: Nothing Lasts H10 7a by Franco Cookson

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 UKC News 10 Apr 2017
Franco making the first ascent of Nothing Lasts H10 7a, 4 kbFranco Cookson has completed the renowned arête project - the 'Sandy Crag Project' - at Sandy Crag in Northumberland. After 30 months, 100 sessions and 1 ground fall, Franco finally established Nothing Lasts H10 7a this weekend. Read more
3
 galpinos 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic looking line and great write up.

P.S. The BMC North York Moors Festival link doesn't seem to work?
1
 TobyA 10 Apr 2017
In reply to galpinos:

Ridding oneself of the shackles of the human condition!? Some classic Franco there!

Franco - well done! Super looking line, but take it easy with the big ground falls: make sure you don't rid yourself of the physical shackles of the human condition before your time!
 MischaHY 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

What a line. Technical, massively bold and really hard. This is a brilliant effort! I'm very psyched for the film.
 danm 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Did anyone else get goosebumps reading this write up? So much to like about it!
 Marco Plebani 10 Apr 2017
In reply to galpinos:

> Fantastic looking line and great write up.

So refreshing in comparison with the unimpressive accounts full of buzzwords ("it was an inspirational process") that I often come across.
 Wizzy 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Loved this write-up!
Fantastic effort Franco, thoroughly deserved
Removed User 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:
No quote from Andy Farnell on this matter? In the interests of balanced reporting. I mean Franco does write a bit like a latter day Si O'Connor...
Post edited at 12:20
3
 SuperstarDJ 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort Franco!
 galpinos 10 Apr 2017
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Cheers Franco. I might try to align that with a weekend at the mother in laws.
1
 Simon Caldwell 10 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

> I've said all that needs saying.

Apart from "sorry"?
5
 Tom Last 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff.
1
 Steve Perry 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Inspiring read and a fine looking line, deserves a pat on the back.
 Shani 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

> "...but fell off most of the way through the 3rd 7a crux move..."

A quote which i feel will one day achieve national-treasure status alongside "Come on arms....", "6b isn't hard enough...", and, "....way honed rock cats".
3
 Smith42 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Well done Franco. Well chuffed for you.
Johnny Dawes for the next generation.
Post edited at 16:16
 Offwidth 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Well done again Franco and boy has your writing come on alongside your climbing. Crying shame you apparently can't grade properly but one day that praise from Andy will come.
15
 Andy Farnell 10 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

> Crying shame you can't grade properly but one day that praise from Andy will come.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638554

To be honest, I couldn't give a flying f#ck what Franco does, or the grades he gives. I've said exactly what I think and will never retract a single word. I stand by everything that was written. If people don't like it, it's their problem and they can deal with it.

Andy F
62
 alx 10 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:
You alright Andy, sounds like you are mellowing a bit?

Well done Franco, great achievement!
Post edited at 18:28
 Michael Gordon 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant stuff and glad to hear he got away with the fall.
 aln 10 Apr 2017
In reply to Removed User:

Franco does write a bit like a latter day Si O'Connor...

Bollox yer arse. There's no comparison between Franco's straightforward telling it like it is approach and Si's Blarney blethering...

1
Clauso 10 Apr 2017
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Good stuff... Nothing Lasts is a decent name, but Farnell's Folly is better IMHO.
3
 Lemony 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Top effort. I feel justified in never being able to follow your beta at the wall...
 Smith42 10 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Thought Franco proposed H10 which makes sense. It would warrant a high E grade, it certainly looks a lot harder than any established county E9s so E10 is logical, and if Franco thinks E11 then its E11 for now.

Second ascentioists please form an orderly queue.
1
Removed User 10 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome. Chapeau Franco. Looking forward to hearing about the next route, and the one after, and...
 snoop6060 10 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

It says Dan Varien has been on this (and not done it). It's gotta be nails hard if that's true. If dan agrees with the grade will you finally apologise and admit you were wrong? That'll be 3 full on 'wads' with of confirmations. Randal, Birkett and Varian. They don't come any higher than that really.
3
 Stone Muppet 11 Apr 2017
Route name from here by any chance? youtube.com/watch?v=-PuTUj0EnlM&
 Luke90 11 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

Yeah, we get it, you did eventually congratulate him on something. The reason people are still giving you stick is that, in my opinion and probably several others, you owe him an actual public apology for your ridiculous and protracted smear campaign rather than just a grudging acknowledgement that ONE of the things he's done was quite worthwhile. Not that I expect any such thing to happen, pride is difficult to swallow so I guess the thread you're repeatedly posting is about as far as you can manage to go.
10
 Andy Farnell 11 Apr 2017
In reply to Luke90: As far as I am concerned the apology has been given. I did what I said I would do. If you and others don't like it, well I couldn't care less.

Andy F

23
 Offwidth 11 Apr 2017
In reply to Smith42:
That was a pointed joke. I've never had a problem with Franco's grading and always felt to single him out for particluar criticism was ridiculous given the history of what has happened to grades around the limits in the UK. In the most controversial case of his grading, the subsequent reports from Birkett proved me right (the grade was only changed slightly based on specialist filed down gear Franco didn't think of and without which was reported as correct). He was inexperienced but so are many other young turks across our history.

Franco was a bit naughty sometimes in the way he handled publicity but I'll forgive that alongside his acheivements and the style in which he was trying to move forward.

He also seemed to be struggling sometimes in his early days to get his views across in writing and now look at his output!
Post edited at 11:31
1
 Skyfall 11 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Congrats to Franco. Just don't push toooo hard !
 Chris Harris 11 Apr 2017
In reply to Shani:

> A quote which i feel will one day achieve national-treasure status alongside "Come on arms....", "6b isn't hard enough...", and, "....way honed rock cats".

Do you mean:

"When 6c just isn’t that hard any more and 6b is approaching a rest.”

"It's alright man, we're experienced rock cats."

?
 Shani 11 Apr 2017
In reply to Chris Harris:

> Do you mean:"When 6c just isn’t that hard any more and 6b is approaching a rest.”"It's alright man, we're experienced rock cats."?

Yes.
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome line. Congratulations, Franco.

jcm
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing work Franco!! And Andy, please, finally, just give it a rest.
6
 planetmarshall 11 Apr 2017
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

> And Andy, please, finally, just give it a rest.

In fairness to Andy, he hadn't replied to this thread until goaded into it.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I frankly don't care. I am sick of seeing him in Franco threads. <end hijack>
9
 CurlyStevo 11 Apr 2017
In reply to Franco Cookson:

boom nice one
 mattrm 11 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Franco. I love this stuff.
 Michael Gordon 11 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

Andy, I'm not sure folk had to bring this up again; it does get wearing. But let's not be inaccurate - there is no apology in that thread you linked (or any other that I'm aware of).
2
In reply to andy farnell:

> As far as I am concerned the apology has been given. I did what I said I would do. If you and others don't like it, well I couldn't care less.Andy F

The more you say you don't care the more obvious it is that you very much do care. Your apology is nothing of the sort. Your protracted smear campaign against Franco was a complete embarassment, and made you look bitter and foolish.

7
 Andy Farnell 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Frank the Husky and everyone else on this site:

> The more you say you don't care the more obvious it is that you very much do care. Your apology is nothing of the sort. Your protracted smear campaign against Franco was a complete embarassment, and made you look bitter and foolish.

As stated above. I don't give a flying f#ck.

You are entitled to think and say what you want.

As am I.

There was no smear campaign. I asked valid questions about how his grading could be accurate if he had no record or history of hard bouldering, sport climbing or trad outside the Moors. If you are unable to see that, then that is your problem. Not mine.

I am happy with all questions I posed. They needed asking.

I am happy with everything I said and will never retract a single word.

If you don't like that. Tough. Don't expect a grovelling apology. It's not happening. Ever.

Andy F

P.S. Birkett gave it E8. Which is f*cking miles from E10.





28
 Offwidth 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

Birkett gave it E8 with a filed down slider. Without it he said it would have been E10. You could argue for an ultra-pure onsight its still E10 .... who carries filed down sliders just in case?
3
 jon 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

> Birkett gave it E8 with a filed down slider. Without it he said it would have been E10. You could argue for an ultra-pure onsight its still E10 .... who carries filed down sliders just in case?

I seem to remember that Franco had a thread about that route before he climbed it. In that thread I'm reasonably sure that Removable Bolts were mentioned. Can't remember the reason he decided against using one... maybe he thought the moves would be too hard if he used up one of the holes, maybe he didn't think of placing it after using the hole as a hold, maybe the hole was too big for the RB, maybe he thought it'd be better not to have to stop to place it, maybe it was just a flash of inspiration? Maybe, of course, I've misremembered everything...
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

> Birkett gave it E8 with a filed down slider. Without it he said it would have been E10. You could argue for an ultra-pure onsight its still E10 .... who carries filed down sliders just in case?

Somebody as experienced as Birkett.
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:
> . Don't expect a grovelling apology. It's not happening. Ever.Andy FP.S. Birkett gave it E8. Which is f*cking miles from E10.

I don't suppose there's anything to stop you from posting something along the lines of 'I guess I was a little bit harsh', though, which wouldn't be grovelling?

Birkett dropped the grade down from E10 to E8 because of the use of the filed down slider, which is something only a handful of people would have in the country, which to me suggests that E10 possibly wasn't entirely wrong, it could have been that E9 was right, which perhaps isn't much of a drop?.
Post edited at 13:26
 Mike Stretford 12 Apr 2017
In reply to jon:

> I seem to remember that Franco had a thread about that route before he climbed it. In that thread I'm reasonably sure that Removable Bolts were mentioned.

It's all there

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2...

Franco is probably the first and last rock cat whose development as a climber and person is archived on UKC. Be bold, but do get old, Franco!

 Offwidth 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Mike Stretford:

Indeed... no need for internet archives either.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=465012



 Andy Farnell 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Timmd:

I wasn't harsh. I was honest. And I have no reason to apologise for the question I asked about where and how his grades came into being. A question, that still has not been satisfactorily answered.

Andy F
17
 Offwidth 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:
If you had talked to him about what he had done in detail he might have told you. I can see how he could wind people up at the time but his intent always seemed to me to be honest and bloody brave. In contrast you keep digging that hole: it would be nice if you could say well done and despite some perfectly reasonable concerns he proved you wrong (in a general sense not on that specific route)

For those who missed it another video of Franco at his bravest:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/61201/franco_cookson_takes_20m_ground_...
Post edited at 13:45
1
 Mike Stretford 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
> Indeed... no need for internet archives either.https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=465012

Well, strictly speaking This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Post edited at 13:38
1
 Offwidth 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Mike Stretford:
I try very hard to stop myself being really picky like that but you have a point, which given my history here is a fair cop
Post edited at 13:42
 Mike Stretford 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

> I try very hard to stop myself being really picky like that but you have a point, which given my history here is a fair cop

I tried, but thought sod it... live a little
 Andy Farnell 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Offwidth: I actually had an email conversation with him. He still provided no answers. I stand by everything I ever said. You and the rest of Franco's cronies can get to f*ck.

Good bye.

Andy F



32
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:
> I wasn't harsh. I was honest. And I have no reason to apologise for the question I asked about where and how his grades came into being. A question, that still has not been satisfactorily answered.Andy F

So, do you question his grade for the route which was down graded from E10 to E8 thanks to the use of a filed down slider, or do you think it was probably 'about right' (with 'about right' allowing for E9 as a grade ), given that most people don't have filed down sliders?

If you could put aside related things about the depth of Franco's climbing experience in other areas and on other rock types, that would be helpful (in this instance), as it was Birkett mentioning his use of the slider bringing the grade down to E8 which set me wondering.

(Edit: Sometimes one apologies just for 'how' something is expressed. I know I certainly have done. )

Thanks.
Post edited at 16:47
 donie 12 Apr 2017
UKC news:
Wow.Brave effort.3* in every respect.
One to be very proud off.
 zv 12 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic effort, Franco.

Your climbing is inspired! Well done, I'm looking forward to Hard Sand
 bouldery bits 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

> I wasn't harsh. I was honest. And I have no reason to apologise for the question I asked about where and how his grades came into being. A question, that still has not been satisfactorily answered.Andy F

How've all your grades come in to being Andy?

3
 alx 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

I do love a good Franco thread, it's just a great opportunity to mercilessly mock Andy.

4
 jon 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

> I stand by everything I ever said. You and the rest of Franco's cronies can get to f*ck.Good bye.Andy F

Half apologies tend to be almost worse than no apology, as Sean Spicer is finding out...

 kevin stephens 12 Apr 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

> How've all your grades come in to being Andy?

I guess from guidebooks with a history of peer review?
 Wft 12 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Franco, glad that seeing Varian lit a fire underneath you.
 Morty 12 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

It is a shame that more than half of the posts on this thread have nothing to do with the news article itself.

Can't we all get along...
 Skyfall 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

I can't really see the point of you posting on Franco threads now. We all know your feelings and you have added zero to any debate about this specific ascent. Whilst you did originally have a valid question about grades, this has now been answered to a large extent and your posts unfairly detract from Franco's achievements.

Good effort Franco.
2
Clauso 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:

> You and the rest of Franco's cronies can get to f*ck.

Don't go. This online breakdown of yours was just getting entertaining.

2
 kevin stephens 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Skyfall:

to be fair the only times Andy has posted has been to answer some but not all of the specific questions put to him. it has been those questions that have added zero to the discussion/praise/recognition (where was the debate?) of Franco's talent and commitment in this ground-breaking (sorry) ascent
1
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to andy farnell:
> I wasn't harsh. I was honest. And I have no reason to apologise for the question I asked about where and how his grades came into being. A question, that still has not been satisfactorily answered.Andy F

I had a thought that there's two ways one might get a feel for grading, which is either climbing on other people's routes, or having other people confirm one's own grades or adjust them sometimes. I don't suppose it matters in the end, so long as accuracy is arrived at?

It could be that franco does have more of a feel for grades since his route was climbed by Birkett?


Post edited at 21:46
 Michael Gordon 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Timmd:

> It could be that franco does have more of a feel for grades since his route was climbed by Birkett?

Yes, whether it confirmed what he thought or informed him more, it could only have helped.
 bouldery bits 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Morty:

> It is a shame that more than half of the posts on this thread have nothing to do with the news article itself.Can't we all get along...

Yes, good point.

Great effort Franco!
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> Yes, whether it confirmed what he thought or informed him more, it could only have helped.

That's why I think Andy possibly risks making himself look like he has a bee in his bonnet, and perhaps seem like he could perhaps be bitter a little bit, if in the future he pops up about Franco's grading credibility. I don't dislike either of them.

I hope Franco holds onto his ability to bounce!

Good effort Franco.
Post edited at 22:26
 seankenny 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Timmd:

> I had a thought that there's two ways one might get a feel for grading, which is either climbing on other people's routes, or having other people confirm one's own grades or adjust them sometimes. I don't suppose it matters in the end, so long as accuracy is arrived at? It could be that franco does have more of a feel for grades since his route was climbed by Birkett?

We're talking a very limited number of data points though, aren't we, in terms of confirmations? I suspect a man of Franco's ability could double or triple the number of data points over the Easter weekend, I get the impression he isn't really bothered but it would be impressive to see.
 petegunn 12 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:
A bit surprised that no one has brought up the
Ethics of using sky hooks on sandstone??
I know all gear placed in sandstone can break the rock in a fall but would have thought sky hooks would do a lot more damage very easily.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=627278

Were they padded out to protect the rock etc?
Post edited at 22:56
2
 Timmd 12 Apr 2017
In reply to seankenny:
That's true about data points, but if Franco has a sense of where his grades are, having one of them changed could still feed into his 'internal measure' as it were (assuming people trust Birkett's sense of grades ).

It's 'only climbing' in the end I guess.
Post edited at 23:06
 Brass Nipples 12 Apr 2017
In reply to Clauso:

> Don't go. This online breakdown of yours was just getting entertaining.

A remake of Falling Down starring Andy...

A middle-aged man dealing with both unemployment and divorce, William Foster (Andy Farnell) is having a bad day. When his car breaks down in Northumberland, he leaves his vehicle and begins a trek across the moors to attend his daughter's birthday party. As he makes his way through the moorland landscape, William's frustration and bitterness become more evident, resulting in violent encounters with various people, including the ramblers and a dutiful climber (Franco).
 Simon 12 Apr 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Franco - good effort

What ever grades these things are - you have a daring do attitude and are out there pushing things, at the very limit.

That's not something you can taught or shown, that has to come from a fire in your belly.

New routing is always good for a debate (long may they last) but there will always need someone to tie in at the sharp end and nothing can take away that buzz of a first ascent, no matter how hard it is. Keep up the good work fella.

Si
2
 Michael Gordon 13 Apr 2017
In reply to seankenny:

> We're talking a very limited number of data points though, aren't we, in terms of confirmations? I suspect a man of Franco's ability could double or triple the number of data points over the Easter weekend, I get the impression he isn't really bothered but it would be impressive to see.

Though if you're going to risk your neck on a bold E9/10, it might as well be a new line? If you're talking really hard stuff it won't be a case of him just nipping over somewhere and tying in.
 Michael Gordon 13 Apr 2017
In reply to Timmd:

> That's why I think Andy possibly risks making himself look like he has a bee in his bonnet, and perhaps seem like he could perhaps be bitter a little bit, if in the future he pops up about Franco's grading credibility.

I think that ship has already sailed!


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