UKC

I fear that one day in the future I will think it was all worth it.

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Wow!

Really enjoyed that. Reminds me of a trip to Chile in 2020 where we didn't get the prize, but had a wild time trying. Similarly, the most memorable pitch for me was a direct link that straightened out the crux pitch (which was a dogleg over 2 pitches), up blank, just off vertical technical granite at a slightly lower grade than the original. Mesmerisingly intricate climbing that kept threatening to blank out, but somehow little hints of progress kept appearing and they way opened up. Could potentially be the most memorable single putch I've climbed, yet it's untmeitely insignificant and may never be climbed again. 

Thought he was more into knotted ropes than bolts? 🤣🤣 

Really enjoyed your writing thanks Franco. I rarely have the endurance to plough through someone else’s account of their climbing expedition but yours had me gripped to the end. 

Really enjoyed that and sounded like a very memorable expedition - enjoyable and successful despite the failure on the main rock objective. 

Wonderful. Best bit of climbing writing I’ve read in a good while.

Thanks, well written and enjoyable. Sounds like an adventure to treasure but perhaps not one to repeat. 

I find the ethic quite interesting. Surely if you're part of an expedition which is placing bolts then you are guilty of it, whether you physically place the bolt or not? Does abstaining from bolting matter, if others in your party are doing it? 

Would love to read this but it looks pretty chunky on a phone. Any volunteers to voice the audio long read?

A great article Franco, thanks. 

Great read Franco. 

It takes literally 10 minutes to read. And it is well worth doing so.

you may have found your super power . 10 minutes ? Really ? 
 

i was waiting until I had finished it to comment , but I’m less than half way through and I think it’s very well written . I m off to walk the dog and will enjoy picking up on it later .

This is one of the best articles I've read on here in ages. What an adventure. 

What a Christmas treat! Proper rad 👍🏻

It is possible that they are dyslexic and struggle with an article of this length (though, if so, they should probably have said so!).

I enjoyed it myself. As a total punter I'm very reluctant to wade in to any ethics debates, but I did have exactly the same thoughts as you Paul!

Great read and horrendous sounding trip, biggest sandbag in climbing history maybe? 
I got involved with sailing once, Edinburgh to Heligoland and back through October gales three days out, seven back - I said never again and stuck to it!

Chris

I thought he explained his personal ethical concerns pretty clearly and honestly. 
 

A brilliant adventure and article, and a team of characters, you got in with the right crowd there Franco. I hope for more stories to come.

Guess I read kind of fast. But even if it takes half an hour, it’s absolutely worth it.

Agreed.

And they probably also already know about screen readers 😉

Type 2.5 fun and dangerously close to type 3

One of the best articles I've ever read on UKC. It's a rare thing when someone so talented in his field can write about it so beautifully. Franco - please take care on the E10s and other wild adventures, I'm really hoping to read more from you in the future....

Not sure it can be sandbag without a grade

It’s a challenge though for anyone else who might be keen (suspect that’s a fairly short list).

What a trip and what a write up!

Brilliant stuff. Adventure is always more important than success.

Absolutely brilliant account, not a word wasted. What a trip!

Super, honest writing. An amazing trip where the climb is not really the point. Brilliant.

Really ace, Franco. Hope you've got something planned for Dawn Wall......

Guilty? Ffs

There is no ethics debate to be had here. Calm down, fellow punters. There are millions of bolts placed all around the world. Without Sean leading and placing bolts, Franco would never have touched his blank half pitch of climbing. 
 

Wonderful writing Franco! Those last couple of lines gave me goosebumps

No one is criticising anyone for placing bolts, just discussing Francos own view of it, which is covered at length in the article. I just thought it strange to refuse to place bolts when your party already is. Seems like a decision you should make before you agree to go on the trip, like. 

I guess maybe less bolts would be placed if you leave all the leading to the strongest climber (which seems to have happened).

Really enjoyed that, some honest and excellent writing from Franco. 

Not only Franco is a great climber but also a great writer, I thought this was brilliant and I was there all the way. Keep it up Franco, great work.

I do enjoy his writing; it's nicely straightforward and descriptive. 

Mind you I enjoyed his youthful ranting as well. Quite funny to think that he's almost become part of the establishment (whatever that might be in the climbing world).

Thank you for sharing your experiences! What a great treat for a stormy evening.

It's up to you now whether this was the trip of a lifetime, or if it will be a lifetime of trips.

Superb writing as always from Franco; thoughtful and honest, and a proper adventure. Thank you.

Amazing write up Franco, thank you. 

Terrific read, very well written

That was a ripsnortingly good read. Kudos to Franco!

And if you fancy a bit more Greenlandic loveliness, check this out;

youtube.com/watch?v=l9RXM8Wyq_s&

Honnold and Findlay (sadly she doesn't appear in this trailer) on a trip that continues on past the Mirror Wall, via the Edward Bailey Glacier and beyond to more awesome walls.

Due for release from 4th Feb on Nat Geo and Disney+ (& Hulu, whatever that is).

one of the most engaging bits of writing i've read in a long time - thanks!