UKC

NEWS: New 1278m Long Route in UK!

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 UKC News 24 Aug 2015
Bullet hard rock and lovely weather, 3 kbDavid Coley has completed his long-awaited mission to traverse the Boulder Ruckle in Dorset​. The 1278m-long route - named Wonderland - involves a traverse consisting of 67 pitches, which David has graded E1 and given 3-stars. The climb is without doubt the UK's longest - albeit horizontal - multipitch trad route.

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 Roberttaylor 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

This is absolutely class.
 fuzzysheep01 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Cool stuff. Am I right in saying that there was a longer multi-day (maybe 3km?) girdle traverse of the Mull of Galloway put up a while ago? I thought I remembered that being mentioned in Lowland Outcrops.

I might well be thinking of something else though.
 jezb1 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

The only route that makes me want to go back to the Ruckle!

Mega effort.
 Stanners 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Will definitely be trying the sub 24 hours on this soon
 Adam Long 24 Aug 2015
In reply to fuzzysheep01:

You might be thinking of the Exmoor coast traverse? http://members.madasafish.com/~exmoorwalker/page100.html

This looks a lot more continuous rock climbing than that though.
 bensilvestre 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastically british
 sbc_10 24 Aug 2015
In reply to Stanners:

> Will definitely be trying the sub 24 hours on this soon

Don't mention it to Ueli.
 fuzzysheep01 24 Aug 2015
In reply to Adam Long:

Aye true - I wasn't meaning to denigrate this achievement anyway, just intrigued! The Galloway one that Lemony linked to sounds a lot more broken than the Ruckle route too.
 GrahamD 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Bugger ! me new Swanage guide already out of date and it hasn't been used yet

Maybe I missed it, which routes does it start / finish at ?
 stevoland 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Class. Anybody know which pub he's raving about?
 jezb1 24 Aug 2015
In reply to stevoland:

Square and Compass in Worth.

It's quite nice but in my opinion one of the most over rated pubs in the climbing world!
2
 stevoland 24 Aug 2015
In reply to jezb1:

Cheers, yeah - thought I was missing out on something!
 petestack 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

> The climb is without doubt the UK's longest - albeit horizontal - multipitch trad route.

Ben Nevis Girdle Traverse, 4000m, Severe?

 Doug 24 Aug 2015
In reply to petestack:

or The Crab Crawl on Creag Meagaidh (2400m according to The Crab Crawl (IV 4) ) -or does winter not count as 'trad' ?
 Ciderslider 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic !!!! Great work - gotta love this - proper adventure by the looks of it. I'll be having a look at a few pitches, and having a few in one of the most overrated climbing pubs in the uk - surely not Jez ??
 Ciderslider 24 Aug 2015
In reply to jezb1:
Jez, how can you say that - heresy - burn him
Better than any pub I've found in Llanberis
Post edited at 20:27
 mrchewy 24 Aug 2015
In reply to Ciderslider:

At least in Llanberis they take cards...
 Michael Gordon 24 Aug 2015
In reply to petestack:

> Ben Nevis Girdle Traverse, 4000m, Severe?

Good point, however this looks much better!
 Michael Gordon 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Superb. Looking at the last photo it's kind of mind-boggling that they found a line at E1 which wasn't the big break!
 jezb1 24 Aug 2015
In reply to Ciderslider:

> Better than any pub I've found in Llanberis

You're not wrong there! But I did eat at the Heights last week without getting food poisoning so it's getting better!

 StuLade 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort, inspiring stuff! Had been toying with the idea of something similar for a while. Great to see a big adventurous objective at a relativity popular venue getting done at an achievable grade for most.
 Lloydfletch 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Great work, and as others have said inspiring stuff.
In reply to UKC News:

Well played, sir, well played indeed.

jcm
1
 Tom Last 24 Aug 2015
In reply to stevoland:

> Cheers, yeah - thought I was missing out on something!

You probably are - Square and Compass is one of the best pubs anywhere!
 Cheese Monkey 25 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

One on the wishlist for sure well done chap
 stevoland 25 Aug 2015
In reply to Tom Last:

Nah, I've been and think I agree with jez. Nice pasties mind.
 David Coley 25 Aug 2015
In reply to GrahamD:



> Maybe I missed it, which routes does it start / finish at ?
Starts up mr ruckle at cattle toughs, finishes on the arête at the west end of subluminal.


 Chris the Tall 25 Aug 2015
In reply to David Coley:

Very impressive, but if you didn't manage at least 4 benightments, 2 helicopter rescues, one BBC film crew and an encounter with a 6 foot snake then I afraid you're slacking in your old age !
 freemanTom 25 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Cracking effort and I rate the Square and Compass as the greatest pub in this and any land
In reply to petestack:

> The climb is without doubt the UK's longest - albeit horizontal - multipitch trad route.
> Ben Nevis Girdle Traverse, 4000m, Severe?

Stanage, E5 6b, 5km
 climbwhenready 25 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort, looks fantastic.
 petestack 25 Aug 2015
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> Stanage, E5 6b, 5km

Yep, thought of that too... just not sure how continuous or 'pitched' either that or the Ben traverse are, so really just observing that 'without doubt' depends how you define 'multipitch trad route'.
In reply to petestack:

> Yep, thought of that too... just not sure how continuous or 'pitched' either that or the Ben traverse are, so really just observing that 'without doubt' depends how you define 'multipitch trad route'.

Just because Ron soloed it doesnt negate the fact that it's trad. There are great chunks of it (the 6b bits) on which a rope would be a comfort. It's definitely not continuous, but it does get done in a day
 David Coley 27 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Hi, just to say that Wonderland is very continuous with no scrambling. Many of the belays are hanging ones.

It would be great if someone repeated it sometime soon to confirm the pitch grades. If you want a copy of the miniguide, email me.

It might only be Swanage HVS!
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

You've got some pretty long walks (not scrambles) in that 5k
 petestack 28 Aug 2015
In reply to David Coley:

> Hi, just to say that Wonderland is very continuous with no scrambling. Many of the belays are hanging ones.

Don't think anyone doubted that from the photos (or local knowledge for those who have it)... it was more about how you define *other* (less obviously continuous) contenders for the 'crown' awarded by the UKC News post above.

 johncb 28 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:
has "Traverse of the Gods" at Swanage been forgotten, not as long as Wonderland, but a great VS.
 UKB Shark 28 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

I didn't know they made ropes this long
 David Coley 28 Aug 2015
In reply to johncb:

> has "Traverse of the Gods" at Swanage been forgotten, not as long as Wonderland, but a great VS.

Strange you should mention that. There is already a traverse of subluminal at HVS, so if you can find a way across Mars etc. at a similar grade, then a sea level traverse might access traverse of the gods. That would be a long route when combined with wonderland!
 MikeTS 29 Aug 2015
In reply to freemanTom:
I was last there in 1962. Fond memories as an under age drinker. Half pints of scrumpie. Rolled down to our tents - literally.
 David Coley 31 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

The mini guide to the route is now on the web at:

http://multipitchclimbing.com/

a photo topo will hopefully follow.
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