/ Newbies to fingerboard training club

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joem 17 Mar 2020

Well as like it or not it looks like lots of our normal indoor training facilities are going to be closed for the foreseeable and outdoor training might well be restricted by many things not least the weather. I thought there might be quite a few people like me who’ve just pulled there finger board out of the loft and are thinking about using it in anger for the first time. So I’ve started this thread to:

- share tips on finger board training 

- share motivation 

- share workouts 

- any other positive vibes on this subject, lets keep our complaining to other threads!

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Iamgregp 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Great idea!  My BeastMaker 1000 has been up for a while but just did my second ever (!) session at the weekend.  I'm using the hangboard guru app and did the Beginner 30 Minutes Strength and endurance session. 

It was pretty strenuous, and comes at you pretty quickly, but I looked at the intermediate version of the same and it's pretty much the same but with a couple of extra seconds on the half crimp hangs and a couple more pull up on jugs so I might give that one a go next time.

It's going to be a frustrating time for the next few months but we can all come out of it much stronger.  Albeit with terrible footwork!

This thread is just what I need.  Let's find some positivity out of all of this!

Post edited at 14:37
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Alex Riley 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

The Crimpd app is a great tool for Finger strength testing and Is supported by the lattice videos on YouTube.

Take it slow and steady, tendons like routine and  can easily be injured by loading too quickly/much/frequently.

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joem 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Ill have a look at the hangboard guru app I’ve not heard of that before.

ive got the crimpd one, but thats lots of wall based stuff with only some body weight and fingerboard stuff.

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Iamgregp 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I really recommend it - free, massive variety of workouts at different levels and was developed by Neil Gresham.

Works for all kinds of different boards too...

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Iamgregp 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Alex Riley:

I'll have a look at that, my finger strength isn't all that so might be a good area to work on whilst all this is going on...

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lorentz 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Beastmaker app ...  powered by Corona Labs. Conspiracy theory alert!!!

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joem 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Sounds not working on it for me which is mildly annoying 

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In reply to joem:

As someone of (ahem) advancing years, I had started to get really tweaky fingers. I used the Beastmaker to develop my open handed grip, and never looked back.

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joem 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Managed to get the sound working. 
did the beginner strength endurance fingers shoulders and core one and I’m nearly dead.

I'm claiming the having also been for a run excuse..

Post edited at 19:52
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mark s 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

how long till a thread about bust A2 pullies from finger boards.

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Christheclimber 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

As an ageing climber suffering with tennis elbow, which Beastmaker board would you recommend? 

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ianstevens 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Christheclimber:

Rehab your elbow first. Then a 1000.

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Christheclimber 17 Mar 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

Cheers. I’ve been trying to rehab my elbows for five years without success.  I’ve tried all sorts of exercises, I use an armaid regularly and have been treated by physios and osteopaths, it has now been become a case of trying to manage it and keep on climbing.

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joem 17 Mar 2020
In reply to mark s:

Approximately 5 mins I expect.

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RX-78 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I found when starting off even the beginner routines were too much so I came up with my own.  To get used to small holds use a harness and pulley system to take off weight.

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Lemony 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

You’ve never been for a run in your life! 

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ianstevens 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Christheclimber:

> Cheers. I’ve been trying to rehab my elbows for five years without success.  I’ve tried all sorts of exercises, I use an armaid regularly and have been treated by physios and osteopaths, it has now been become a case of trying to manage it and keep on climbing.

Fair enough, sounds shit. Unless you climbing right up in the high 7s there’s nothing on a 1k too easy.

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joem 17 Mar 2020
In reply to Lemony:

I’ve now been for atleast one ;)

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Lemony 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Was The Bake having a chuck out? 
 

watch that knee...

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kevin stephens 17 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

how did you get the sound to work?

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pec 17 Mar 2020
In reply to RX-78:

> To get used to small holds use a harness and pulley system to take off weight.

A simpler alternative can be to hang an old bike inner tube from the board and stand in that for a bit of support.

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Mountain Spirit 17 Mar 2020
In reply to pec:

I don't have a fingerboard but as a result of my PT1 workshop Katherine from Love to Climb has advised my to do pull ups to increase pull power.

I do Crimpd on the minute upper body work out sometimes but not every time.

S

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MischaHY 18 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I'm just gonna drop this here: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91amoGqvtf/ 

Please, please be careful with your fingers. Fingerboarding is far more intense than climbing and the risk of developing a stress injury from a sudden increase in volume/regularity is far higher. 

Write yourself a training plan focused on muscle conditioning (pull, push, core, flexibility) with a moderate amount of fingerboard work (2-3 times a week) and don't push too hard. The last thing you want when all the gyms are back open and the crag season is back on is to have a finger injury that ruins your year. 

Not looking to ruin psyche but there's nothing better for ruining psyche than a pulley imploding. 

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Mountain Spirit 18 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

What about pull ups on jugs.

I have been doing yoga which is good for climbing including Chataranga Dandasana (Four Limbed Staff Pose).

Also I Y T on my belly at home.

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Iamgregp 18 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Sound advice as always there.  Gently gently with the fingerboard... 

All the routines I'm looking at right now only use the jugs, or hangs on half crimps so I doubt I'm even putting as much strain on my fingers as my normal climbing routine. 

However I imagine the longer this goes on the more I'll start to introduce the more challenging holds into the routine, but it's still very early days right now.

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MischaHY 18 Mar 2020
In reply to Mountain Spirit:

Probably fine Sav, just be careful with those shoulders. Yoga sounds great, as does IYT. Stay safe. 

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MischaHY 18 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

Sounds good. I'm more worried about the mega keen lads/ladys who are now thinking they can fingerboard 5x a week because they're not climbing! 

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Mountain Spirit 18 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks Mischa. 

I have been advised to get one with large holds jug holds such as the 1000.

I always warm shoulders up and precondition them with rings and TRX work.

 I have doing yoga since I found out my flexibility was rubbish when I started climbing and now I can almost pancake. 

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Mountain Spirit 18 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Fore arm balances will strength the fore arm muscles. I was told fingerstrength comes from the forearms.

Post edited at 11:35
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joem 18 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Yeah going to start on the easier workouts that don’t seem too extreme. The apps I’m looking out also have good core and flexibility workouts so that should help.

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Mountain Spirit 18 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I am a big Crimpd fan and sqwark gives me a lot good advice for core n flexibility.

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In reply to MischaHY:

What Mischa says...

there used to be a section on on the Beastmaker website describing how slowly tendons strengthen, so don’t expect too much progression too soon.

Also, dont wait for elbow injuries, start antagonistic exercises now.

Don’t train tired, don’t sag onto straight arms and straightened out shoulders.

work on that open hand!

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MischaHY 18 Mar 2020
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

I'm taking this an opportunity to finally address my piss poor sloper strength! BM2K 'Slopercentric' left my forearms feeling wrecked. 

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In reply to MischaHY:

I’m finally transitioning over to my BM2K, but the wood isn’t worn I yet (that’s my excuse) so it’s very slow going with the slopers. Waiting for a delivery of small crimps for my wall which should keep me busy for quite a while.

i think me and wife are going to start walking over and ticking unfashionable Peak limestone sports routes over the next few weeks.

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JLS 18 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I reckon good approach as a gateway into harder fingerboarding would be to look at the crimped apps endurance routines which calls for around 50% weight subtraction with a pulley system. Anyone that’s just beginning fingerboarding and typically climbing in the sixes need not get too hung up the exact weight to subtract, just start easy (50% body weight rather than 50% max hang) and play it by ear. Maybe a month in, when your fingers are used to the exercise, do max testing and hone the weights involved.

Go open handed rather than half crimp. It may be less effective but it’s just safer.

Post edited at 18:16
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joem 18 Mar 2020
In reply to JLS:

That’s a great tip, with the openhanded thing, i find myself just doing this in most of my climbing, i have to really focus to full crimp stuff

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MischaHY 18 Mar 2020
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

They're really hard. My board also overhangs a couple of degrees which makes the 45's ridiculous.

I'm thankful that I have some fairly rarely frequented sport/bouldering in the area where I live and some projects on the go so for the moment can carry on with some level of normality - but I suspect the German government will be going for full lock down for a couple of weeks at some stage in the near future (although I do think it depends on the extent of infections/deaths and load on the health system). 

Me and the girly are racking our brains looking for ways we could get some kind of board or similar up but we live in a tiny rented house and space is non-existent. 

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Mountain Spirit 19 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

There was a rumour that London will go into lockdown with all public transport stopped.

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Iamgregp 20 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

The 45's are hard I have to be really warmed up and chalky before I can even hang on them.  A couple of degrees more would render them useless to me!

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Iamgregp 20 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Did another 30 min workout yesterday, but having seen lots of posters on social media advising caution when fingerboarding, including Neil Gresham who made the app I used I stuck to a beginner workout.

I wish there was another level of holds on the BM1000, the jugs are great for pullups, the deep pockets are good to do a kind of half crimp on, but I feel I could do with something a bit smaller, but not so small as the next set up, which are pretty challenging for a newbie such as me....

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MischaHY 20 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

> The 45's are hard 

> I wish there was another level of holds on the BM1000

Possibly you've got the 35's in mind? IIRC that's the steepest angle on the 1000. Still savage! 

You can use a pulley system to remove a bit of weight on the 20mm crimps (bottom left and right) in order to do some more repeaters on them. 

Go steady on the crimps though  

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Iamgregp 20 Mar 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

Oh really, those are 35?  Bloody hell....

Yeah I'm thinking I'll rig up a pulley during the lockdown.  I've got it set up halfway down my stairs so you can just keep one foot on to make an assist but it'll be easier to monitor and control the level assist with a proper pulley and weight system

Yes. Easy on the crimps. I had a finger injury a few years back and do not want one again!

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Stone_donkey 20 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Taking it back a step - putting your fingerboard up! My house (or at least the rooms that I could get away with installing a board) have plasterboard walls, not brick/stone. Is it possible to use a fingerboard on these without pulling your wall down? If so, what fittings are recommended?

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Iamgregp 20 Mar 2020
In reply to Stone_donkey:

This is the first difficult challenge presented by all fingerboards!

 There's loads of threads on here about it.. This was a recent one - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/another_beastmaker_mounting_thread-698554 

Good luck!

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UKB Shark 20 Mar 2020
In reply to Stone_donkey:

> Taking it back a step - putting your fingerboard up! My house (or at least the rooms that I could get away with installing a board) have plasterboard walls, not brick/stone. Is it possible to use a fingerboard on these without pulling your wall down? If so, what fittings are recommended?

This is an option: http://crusherholds.co.uk/fingerboard-hangboard-mounting-device-2

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joem 20 Mar 2020
In reply to Stone_donkey:

I managed to make a door frame mount with a small amount of ply board a 1inch by 1inch 75cm ish bit of wood and few screws using basic tools. I’d post a picture but I can’t work that out.

edit: basically the same as the crusher holds one linked above but less pretty.

Post edited at 16:50
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Mountain Spirit 20 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Is the best fingerboard for pull ups Beastmaker 1000?

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lorentz 21 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

I'm using the beastmaker app on a 1000. I struggle to  hang  7 secs on/3 secs off for more than a set or two. 

Should I do fewer reps in a set (say 5 instead of 7) in this time scenario or should I put in more reps on say 6 secs on 4 secs off which seems easier. What's best for themz gainz, yo!?

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JLS 22 Mar 2020
In reply to lorentz:

If you can, just subtract weight with a pulley. I’ve just completed my first CV internment session with -10kg. I figure I’m likely to be doing a lot of these sessions in the coming weeks so was kind to myself, reducing the intensity down to a fairly comfortable level. Plan on reducing the negative weight by 1kg per week. Expect that’ll gently ramp me back up to full body weight and beyond.

In the past, on the hardest hangs, I’ve gone for 5on/5off and that let me complete the sets as a steppingstone up to 7/3.

Post edited at 15:07
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joem 22 Mar 2020
In reply to joem: I have now got distracted from fingerboard training by panic constructing a woody in the loft.

Ill most likely get back on the finger board when I’m “working from home” next week. How’s everyone else coping?

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lorentz 22 Mar 2020
In reply to JLS:

Cheers. Good idea. I'll look into it as a little DIY project.

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Stone_donkey 22 Mar 2020
In reply to UKB Shark:

Thanks, that looks worth a look 

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Christheclimber 24 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Second session today on my new Beastmaker 1000, find the 11 on 3 rest difficult to coordinate......

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joem 24 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Did another session from the hangboard guru app today felt like a right beasting even on beginner!!!!

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lorentz 25 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Had a jam this morning. Managing to hold 7 on 3 off on the easier holds for 7 reps in a set with 2:30 off between.  Dropped down to 6on 4off on harder hangs. Forearms were pumped to hell, but seeing improvement!

Tune selection is all important. As is not having the dog running around under my feet while I'm hanging. Most distracting!

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joem 25 Mar 2020
In reply to lorentz:

I was just dealing with the girlfriend wanting to change rooms

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lorentz 25 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Mine kept wanting to change the playlist. Turns out she's not as into 90s drum'n'bass as me. :/

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joem 26 Mar 2020
In reply to lorentz:

found that the beginner fingers only workout was easier than the others obviously my finger strength isn't the main issue.

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Robert Durran 26 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

> I wish there was another level of holds on the BM1000, the jugs are great for pullups, the deep pockets are good to do a kind of half crimp on, but I feel I could do with something a bit smaller, but not so small as the next set up, which are pretty challenging for a newbie such as me....

I panic bought a 1000 and a 2000 last week having tried both at the wall. I'm very glad I did. I'm focussing on max hangs for pure finger strength (this is my main climbing weakness so a good chance to work on it!), following a Dave Macleod vid. I've been doing four different grips and really do find I need one board for two of them and the other for the other two, though I'm hoping all will end up on the 2000 as I get stronger!

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MischaHY 28 Mar 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

> I wish there was another level of holds on the BM1000, the jugs are great for pullups, the deep pockets are good to do a kind of half crimp on, but I feel I could do with something a bit smaller, but not so small as the next set up, which are pretty challenging for a newbie such as me....

Bang a AAA battery into the deep slots, it works great and offers a medium sized hold. 

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barbeg 29 Mar 2020
In reply to joem:

Is there an Android version of hangboard guru ?

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Dyfed72 20:02 Sat
In reply to joem:

I mainly use the Beastmaker app sessions, but also have custom workouts including max hangs (try Crimpd app) and sessions that utilise additional training tools (Metolius rings and power grips). It was a huge challenge working though BM app sessions - took 18 months to get to 7a (those grades are a bit nuts (and demoralising) by the way). 
 

The key for me was creating an environment conducive to training: music on, climbing film/bouldering comp on YouTube on iPad, mug of tea, climbing mag or guidebook to flick through during rests. I also put an old bouldering pad under my fingerboard - nice to sit on in between sets and you can pretend you are actually climbing (or at least makes you associate what you’re doing with climbing). Do everything you can to make it enjoyable and something you want to do. 
 

good luck. 
 

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Tom Loughlin 20:18 Sat
In reply to Dyfed72:

Word to all this - very sound advice. Some inspirational pictures on the wall, a cup of tea, a guidebook with some too-hard problems, round of goes and a rest, could almost be at the crag..!

On a side note: you’re Cheltenham based aren’t you? I moved here last year with my family for work purposes - virtual rock poverty but once this craziness is over we should get down to Gandalf’s. email me if you’re ever stuck for a spotter etc. Go safe and enjoy those killer repeaters 

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Dyfed72 20:45 Sat
In reply to Tom Loughlin:

Sounds good; I’m up for that. Plus there’s the new Boulders Centre to look forward.

And I have that massive North Wales bouldering guide that needs some proper use. 

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Tom Loughlin 21:24 Sat
In reply to Dyfed72:

Now you’re talking - got the same guide as my resting reading material in the garage for beastmaker nights. So much to go at. Shout me up when we’re out of lockdown and we should pilgrimage up to cymru

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Dyfed72 09:28 Sun
In reply to Tom Loughlin:

make it so

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