/ UKC Fit Club 633

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Tom Green on 05 May 2019

Morning Team! Early post this week -sorry if you were planning on sneaking a last minute log in to last week's thread!

So is everyone making the most of another dry(ish) bank holiday weekend to get out and get ticking? I'm looking forward to hearing the progress reports...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502  

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_632-703942

Posters:

AJM -Sorry to hear the week was a bit frustrating. Although, as temporary Fit Club whip-cracker, this is perhaps the wrong message for me to give... "Shit Happens!" Obviously we all know how consistency is king etc, but at the end of the day, there's no point beating ourselves up if the occasional week conspires to thwart climbing or training -it's all supposed to be enjoyable, right?! Better week this week?

Tom Green -So recent trad sessions show that you haven't forgotten how to climb -you just need to do more. Get organised and get that trad mileage up! And look after your knee!

Somerset Swede Basher -Nice varied week. It looks like there's no stopping you on the sport routes at the moment! Your Thursday sounds great -that style of day is one of my favourites. Remind us... what are your current goals? 

biscuit -How's the stretching and conditioning going? Are you managing to keep on top of that weekly regime? It looks like a really good structured plan, so hopefully life won't disrupt it! How were your indoor sessions this week -any progress on those V6 goals?

Alan Little -I'm assuming last week was a taper/deload/wrap yourself in cotton wool and avoid any injury risk kind of week?! Hopefully as this post goes up you are already making the most of the cool morning cons for your first tick of the day... Bon chance and we look forward to the trip report.

guy127917 -Any progress in trying to make stretching/prehab in to a habit? (If so, tell me your secret as I'm terrible at consistently 'prehab-ing'!) Your offwidth problem sounds fun -and the perfect remedy for a stiff back! ;-p Hope you've managed to get away somewhere fun this weekend. 

SFrancis -Interesting observation about your mates approach to indoor climbing. I think there can be a bit of a culture of not wanting to be seen to be trying 'too' hard at UK walls -even for people who are there to train! What would you say the difference was between their approach and your normal approach?

Ardo -Congrats on the van buying (best bit of climbing gear ever!) and the FBD tick -sounds like a super productive week. Did you manage any climbing on this weeks hols? And where are you at with those LTGs?

Powerpuff -Totally crushing the V6s -nice one! What's the tactic going to be for those V7s? Will it need stronger fingers, better footwork, more dynamic movement? What styles of problem are 'your style' and what types are a struggle? 

the sheep -Congrats on hitting the half-year goals early! 500km in four months is really impressive, but 100km in the pool totally blows my mind! You're going to be able to give yourself Oct-Dec off at this rate!!

alexm198 -Hope you've had a slightly saner week than last weekend's shenanigans! Back to the training routine? How are you getting on with making a new summer plan?

Jackob -So did Tyler's beta help?! Or was his undercut the same as the shit one you were already using?! ;-D Sounds like a good high volume week -well done for fitting in some antags. All set for Kalymnos?

Tyler -Intrigued by the 'worst ever bit of DIY'! Congrats on taking the plunge with the van -seems to have been a big weekend for FitClub van buying. How are those knees? I find it interesting that the squats help your knees -I'm suspicious that they aggravate mine a bit! What alpine routes have you squatted your way up this week?

Ally Smith -Sounds like a solid re-opening of the account on Mecca. What's the deal with the Compex -have you been using it long? I have no experience of it (apart from similar machines in horses!) and am always a little dubious of some of the claims made (although I haven't made the effort to do much research in to it. Do you use it primarily for recovery? What are your thoughts?

Lornajkelly -Good work with the Meanwood run (with a name like Meanwood, you know you're stepping up the toughness!) Also, well done on Fox House Flake -I was surprised to see people saying it was an easy VS on the UKC logbooks -I vaguely remember it feeling quite stern as an early grit VS lead! Fingers crossed for good weather to help with the trad pyramid.

mattrm -Sorry to hear the lurgy got you last week. Has this week had the 'lurgy hangover' or have you recovered reasonably well? 

PlanetMarshall -The falling situation is a bit interesting I guess? Usually clocking up some air time would be something to encourage, but still being relatively freshly healed there probably is a lot to be said for getting more low level 'stress' (i.e. the normal rigours of life) through that leg to build up resilience before you start risking higher impact stress on it. The opposite of Sean's 500 falls advice -for now... ;-p Interested to see what you come up with for LTGs -what are you going to follow Ama Dablam with?!

MIA: Bones, climb that pitch, Rebecca Ting, Ianstevens, Cyan. 

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biscuit - on 05 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers Tom. Not been to BUK for a while. I'll have chance for revisits in a month or so.

Long term goals

TBC

666 fit club goals

6 x V6 slabs – 1 done

6 x V6 vert – 2 done

6 x V6 steep – 4 done

To be done at BUK for ‘proper’ grades

Medium Goals 2-6 mths (Mid June – Oct)

Shelterstone June - E2 classics

October sport trip – 7b in a day

Red wall traverse R-L (7b+ ish) by June Shelterstone trip

Short term goals 1-2 mths (to mid june)

Cimbing – get out as much as poss. Lancs quarries and Trowbarrow.

Diet– DQS 25+ per day. 2250kcal per day with 90g+ protein.

Flexibility - 2 x a day

Shoulder– left elbow touching the floor in supine with arms overhead. Currently approx. 4 cm off.

Legs/hips – palms to floor in standing with straight legs (challenged by one of the kids on the squad).

Measure side splits and focus on these for 2 mths.

Conditioning – press ups every day when shoulders OK. Pull ups as often as possible.

5 x 10 rep press up sets (different hand position for each).

5 x 10 rep pull ups. 1 min rest.

These will act as a decent base to then start specific strengthening work.

Core – 3 x a week. Complete CRIMPD app core (static, floor, extended) for starters. That’s one each session, not all 3 in one session.

Repeaters – 1 x a week. Baseline sets to failure.

Shoulder(s)

Theraband functional movements now. EVERY DAY

Last week

I’d give myself 5/10 for last week.

Climbing – Had a chance after coaching on Monday. Too tired (I was falling asleep whilst waiting) so went home.

Took the chance before coaching on Wednesday and had a boulder at AWCC for the first time in ages. Good problems, grades all over the show as is traditional there. Had an hour and did up to V4 (or V5 or V6 maybe??) and then 4 sets of 1min on, 1 min off FOC.

I did get a brief session at Trowbarrow yesterday. I felt unable to try hard. Tweaky shoulders and no oomph. Managed from just after crux to the end and did the start a couple of times. Ran out of steam/motivation pretty quickly.

Diet - over 25 DQS for 4/7 days and 5/7 for 2250cals per day.

Flexibility– Twice a day 4/7. Left shoulder feels like it’s making progress. Side splits measured at 190cm mid april.

Conditioning – press-ups managed 4/7 but not without rest. Still didn’t manage any pull ups. Need to find somewhere to do them.

Core – 2/3 sessions done. Changing this now to take the 1 exercise out of each session I find hard and doing that.

Repeaters – not done

Shoulders – Still improving, right seems to be lagging behind the left.

This week:

As short term goals with:

GET OUTSIDE FOR SOME TRAD! Hopefully this coming weekend

Boulder and aero circuits at Depot.

I have had a dip this week. Not sure why, but planning deffo helps. Need to get back on it. I’ve planned this week better. I’m also going to start daily weigh ins/body fat to see if that motivates me to put the pies down.

Post edited at 14:01
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Lornajkelly - on 05 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Lornajkelly -Good work with the Meanwood run (with a name like Meanwood, you know you're stepping up the toughness!) Also, well done on Fox House Flake -I was surprised to see people saying it was an easy VS on the UKC logbooks -I vaguely remember it feeling quite stern as an early grit VS lead! Fingers crossed for good weather to help with the trad pyramid.

Thanks Tom.

This week I learned that my fitbit has been under-counting my distances, so the paces it's giving me are too slow!  Better than the other way round at least, and I'm fitter than I thought I was!

Shoulder is definitely pinching again though.  I suppose I shouldn't be surprised, as I've done two wall sessions and a swim this week.  If I keep up with the conditioning and be more realistic with training sessions that use the shoulders I can keep it under control.  Back to slabs for the time being!

M - Wall session, and a corker.  102m logged to add to the K2 total, and a couple of good grade 5 leads under the belt.  

Tu - Couch to 5k week 7.  Hard stuff!  I've realised that Tuesdays are always hard and Fridays easy, probably because there's a two-day rest before Friday.  When I finish this podcast I'm going to get up to doing 10k, with a weekend long run each week after two shorter mid-week runs.  I'm thinking of changing the nights I go running to give me either that two-day rest before or after the weekend long run.  

W - Rest

Th - short wall session - neither my fiancee nor my other climbing friends were free so I had an autobelay day.  I made it to the top a grand total of once (I hate autobelays and am making myself have confidence in them), but I also got a bit of bouldering in too.  

F - Couch to 5k week 7.  Related to the above, was an excellent run.  Round the streets by my house (which is on the side of a hill, so impossible to plot a flat route) and enjoyed it hugely.  I genuinely feel like a runner.  It's also this run that made me realise that the fitbit is underclocking - I did about half a mile more than the fitbit says I did!  

Sa - swim:  750 m breaststroke.  Shoulder only pinching when I switched to front crawl to overtake.  35 mins which, for the first time doing that distance in over two years, is a big deal!  My PB was measured during an open-water swim, so the wetsuit helped, and was 28 minutes.  I'm definitely going to do a triathlon this year.

Su - couch to 5k week 7.  Canal towpath.  Decided to push the speed and see what I could do.  I'm pretty chuffed with myself because Google logs this at 5 km - the first time I've done this distance in one session in about a year and a half, and then I only managed it a handful of times at the end of couch to 5k.  Before that, it was only managed as solid running during triathlon training, roughly six years ago.  

STG (May 2019): lead 5 VDiffs onsight (0/5)

MTG (end of 2019):  lead 5 Welsh VS

LTG (end of 2021, 35th birthday):  comes the dervish.

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AJM - on 05 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> AJM -Sorry to hear the week was a bit frustrating. Although, as temporary Fit Club whip-cracker, this is perhaps the wrong message for me to give... "Shit Happens!" Obviously we all know how consistency is king etc, but at the end of the day, there's no point beating ourselves up if the occasional week conspires to thwart climbing or training -it's all supposed to be enjoyable, right?! Better week this week?

Thanks Tom. We delivered one of the big things at work this week, which should make things easier, and I'm definitely feeling generally tired (although having said that, I did have a mid-afternoon nap after a busy morning with miniAJM!). I haven't got outside this exact week, but am supposed to be out tomorrow and have had a moderately active weekend otherwise.

Tuesday - Crimpd 5-3-5-3-5, which seemed a bit easier than last time but generally got some blood pumping in the arms

Thursday - Crimpd 1-on-1-off on the smaller rungs. This felt a bit hard and I picked up a bit of a blood blister at a wear point, only a small one though.

Saturday - about 5 miles walk in the Purbeck countryside, very nice albeit a bit blowy, lugging the child around (combined pack + clutter + child weight must be up to 20kg now!). Then some sets of knee to bar in the evening, plus a bit of less structured messing about with other things.

Sunday - another 5 miles or so of walking with the child, down to the beach and along to Bournemouth. It's not such a bad place when you can get to the beach on foot in 2.5 miles. Downhill or flat for the most part so easier than yesterday. Then watching buses and the big wheel and all sorts, followed by taking ourselves off for lunch and then a bus ride home. All very exciting. Then a nap followed by some psyche boosting reading White Cliff. The pictures...... Drool.......!

Pretty decent week and looking forwards to getting out tomorrow. I might do it as a late update or  save it for next week. Hoping for a day out next weekend, unsure beyond that...

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AJM - on 05 May 2019
In reply to AJM:

> generally tired

Generally *less* tired...

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Powderpuff on 06 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Powerpuff -Totally crushing the V6s -nice one! What's the tactic going to be for those V7s? Will it need stronger fingers, better footwork, more dynamic movement? What styles of problem are 'your style' and what types are a struggle? 

Hi Tom 

No real tactic for the v7 other than to try the moves whenever I'm feeling strong. I think body tension is always a factor for me on hard problems and reminding myself to be aggressive helps too.

Tue: couple of v4's repeated 2 v5's...@ the wall obviously.

Thursday: biked to the wall and repeated a v5 for the warm up then worked on the v7 I've been trying. felt stronger but didn't climb any new moves. 2 sets of 20 press ups , 2 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls, 3 sets of 20 leg raises, 3 sets of 20 sit ups. Theraband for shoulders.

Sat: 3 max hangs on the beastmaker. I could hang the 45's easily as the temperature had dropped but struggled to find a grip combination to push me to my max. Tried a 2 finger pocket with the 45 sloper....not quite right.

Still need more core work...I keep skipping this when I'm up against it time wiser, a crap excuse , I must do better.  

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AJM - on 06 May 2019
In reply to AJM:

> looking forwards to getting out tomorrow. I might do it as a late update or  save it for next week

Well, it was a good day, so I'll report it. 

Monday - Split Rock. Great little crag.

My friend got on Certain Surprise (E3 5c) to start off (there's not a lot of warmups), and lowered off to strip the gear. I gave it a go on the flash. Helps at the start, as otherwise it's a bit goey, but after that I think the generic chalking from him and prior ascentionists was the biggest help. A lot of a fight, definitely a bit of scrabbling going on, not pretty! But I got there in the end.

Then he got on Video Kills (E3 5c) (which is the direct finish to Rustic Wall (E3 5c), and is how the latter is described in the rockfax). At the start of the day I'd been thinking this was one for a pure onsight go but then after the first route I was a bit concerned I might not get up it at all! But it was great. Again, not a lot of beta in the grand scheme of things. Really nice flowy climbing, sinker wire slots and other easy to place runners. I was moving far better, and recovering better (definitely a problem on certain surprise) so am hoping that the first route was a flash pump not moving well problem. But either way, if you're in the locale I recommend it.

Corsican Days (E3 5c) was the last route of the day, and with a more wandering line which would have made it hard to clean I opted to second. I'm really quite glad I did, because it was desperate! Way harder than the others. It shares the start with Certain Surprise, which I still found a bit awkward, bit I was definitely tired by then, the routes are pumpy in places.

Very good day. Roll on next weekend

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guy127917 - on 06 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

guy127917 -Any progress in trying to make stretching/prehab in to a habit? (If so, tell me your secret as I'm terrible at consistently 'prehab-ing'!) Your offwidth problem sounds fun -and the perfect remedy for a stiff back! ;-p Hope you've managed to get away somewhere fun this weekend. 

Monday: 8km run, bouldering session.. can't remember the details

Tuesday: 8km run, bouldering at Vauxwall east- first time going there. Cool wall but too busy to be fun, didn't venture into training area/moon board, but plan to use that in future. 

Wednesday-Fri Rest

Saturday: Hike up to Gimmer and did The Crack and Kipling Groove. Both excellent lines, it was a bit cold though, some random squalls of snow etc. Finished the day by getting to the top of the nearest pike before going down to the Arcteryx thing. Two more hard rock ticks :D

Sunday: Shepards Crag for some slightly warmer climbing. Lead a couple of E1's and the nails Finale (HVS 5a)

Better week- did actually do proper warmups before climbing and cool down stretches and it did make me feel better. I don't really have any tips etc other than to let your issues get so bad that it forces you to fix them! 

This week, I plan to do 3 runs including a longer run and 3 climbing sessions (tues, thurs, fri)

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Somerset swede basher - on 06 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. Current goal is to climb Font 8A by the end of the year. Got a bit side tracked with the sport over my easter break but really enjoyed it and don't often have the time to tie in so made the most of it. This week I've been back to bouldering mostly.

Mon. Rest/working

Tues. Headed to the Tor. Undecided what to get on but there were loads of pads down in the cave when I got there so had a reaqaintance session with Tumbleweed Stand Start. I tried it last year but never got past the 2 finger pocket. Managed to do from start to the final throw so progress on last year already.

Wed. Back to the Tor, 3 goes at Tumbleweed, managed to fall off with my hand on the jug! Had a play on just the end a few times and found a better way to hold the penultimate hold so may go soon. 

Thurs. Rest. 

Fri. Indoor session. Campus board 20x 1 3 5 or variations of. Some easy circuit boarding.

Sat. Core and upper body session.

Sun. 12km on the mtb with the kids

Post edited at 21:16
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Tom Green on 07 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Slightly crap week. Work and knee combined with general disorganisation and bad planning to derail training.

Week 18:

Goals: 2 Climbing Sessions (Tick); 2 Core Sessions (1/2); 2 Strength Sessions (1/2).

M: Rest

T: Rest/Prehab

W: Rest

T: Indoor Climbing. Max hangs and limit bouldering.

F: Alpine start and late finish for work.

S: Indoor Climbing. Max hangs, AnCap bouldering, AeroCap including laps on WideBoyz crack volumes.

S: Core and General Strength.

Week 19 Plan:

2 Climbing Sessions

2 Core Sessions

2 Strength Sessions

Try running again -flat low intensity!

STG/Q2:

Average 300+m vert running per week (Currently 803m)

Bowland run/climbathon

N Wales El Cap Day

Welsh 3000s (recce'd!)

MTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Average 300+m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, Royal Traverse etc...

666 Goals:

6 Crack routes of each size

6 Roof routes

6 E-points in a day

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the sheep - on 07 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> the sheep -Congrats on hitting the half-year goals early! 500km in four months is really impressive, but 100km in the pool totally blows my mind! You're going to be able to give yourself Oct-Dec off at this rate!!

Thank you, the swim part comes a lot more naturally to me than the run but please with both. 

Took the plunge (pun intended     ) and got myself a tri wetsuit and booked onto an open water tri for the beginning of June to add some more focus to my training. Bit of an on/off week as it was the last week of my wifes marathon training so everything was tailored around her needs.

Monday, 2km lunchtime swim and intervals in the evening

Tuesday,  2km lunchtime swim and 6.5km evening run

Wednesday, knocked off work early to get a wetsuit 

Thursday, 2km lunchtime swim

Friday, nothing

Saturday, 6.5km trail run with the wife to give the legs one last gentle work out.

Sunday, went to go out on the bike for a ride but the chain snapped after 5k!

As an added extra, my wife made it round her marathon in 4 hours 46 which was brilliant 

Post edited at 10:29
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Ally Smith on 07 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Many thanks for the stats Tom - much appreciated.

The Compex is being used for capillarisation on my forearm flexors, gently exercise my brachialis whilst my elbows grump, and as a TENS machine for wifey. Getting good value from it so far.

Week 18

M – Daytime recovery Compex session, then evening 7C+ club at Nuda’s Tartan. Sorted beta, then did Double Amputee (f7C+) on 2nd RP. After faffing for inverted selfies; https://www.instagram.com/p/Bw4aHedDSMJ/ did 4x 7A-B problems on the other roof.

T – Quick Compex session, but mostly rest.

W – Crimpd 90% effort max hangs (+43kg on Lattice edge) 6x 10s hang/2min rest. 5x5 on the minute pull-ups. 3x10 hanging leg raises.

T – Mono training sling lean-outs, then lots of an-cap fingerboarding as Mecca is only 27 moves long, or about 1.5min climbing (+1min kneebarring). 4x 10/3/5/3 @-15kg front3 strict crimp (BFR + rings supermans inbetween sets). 3x 10/3/5/3 front3 open @-10kg (BFR). 30min rest, then 6x 7/3/5/3 @+28kg with 4 finger half-crimp/drag/chisel/whatever feels strong (no BFR). Finished with Crimpd “compression” rings session and felt absolutely drained - beautiful.

F – FoC aero-cap (12x 1on/2off) @ +5kg weight vest with various sit-up and press-up exercises during 2min “rest”. Compex session in the car driving to Vale of York for first of many indulgent meals over a 4 day wedding marathon…

S – Nowt: pre-wedding club.

S – 30km flat biking with groomsmen, then wedding club proper. 3+hrs dancing

I appear to have bulked up 2kg over the 4day wedding marathon - I think I need to find time to reintroduce some aerobic exercise and shed some lard otherwise Mecca is going to feel very difficult!

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jackob - on 07 May 2019

Another week full of climbing but not so full of training!

Mon: Antags + Core 

Tues: Rest Day

Weds: Malham - Free and Easy (7c) Remembering my moves had one good RP attempt.

Thurs: Malham - Back on  Free and Easy (7c) Unfortunately had session cut short due to circumstances out of my control.

Friday: Malham - Sent Free and Easy (7c) 1st go. First 7c Also had a play on the start of New Dawn (7c) and had an onsight attempt on Appetite (7a+) to finish but fell on the crux.

Sat: 22Km Walk in the lakes followed by an hour or so bouldering at  Langdale Boulders , did a few easy problems and had a good play on The Overhang (V5) but couldnt latch the finishing slopers. 

Sun: Kilnsey - Rest Day

Summary:

Another week full of climbing, happy to tick Free and Easy (7c). Hip still feeling sore all week but basically better by sunday, however this meant no running or yoga. But gutted not to get back to kilnsey to finish off Dominatrix (7c) before i go away but hopefully it should feel easy with a bit of fitness from my trip to kalymnos. Didnt feel the need/ have the time to do any fingferboarding/core workouts with the amount of climbing i have done this week. Now time to relax before 2 weeks of tufas and kneebars.

STG:

Send Dominatrix (7c), Climb a 7c in Kalymnos. Onsight a 7b in Kaly. 

LTG:

8a (+?) Ideally The Bulge (aka Let Them Eat Jellybeans) (8a) + Supercool (8a+)

Post edited at 19:17
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AJM - on 07 May 2019
In reply to jackob:

On fire! Nice one...

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AlanLittle - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Last week was indeed a very light tapering week.

M: rest

T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Light-ish but not too late session - Mr Barrows says to maintain intensity but drop volume went tapering. Half a dozen pumpy routes around onsight level.

W: rest

T: rest

F: rest

S: travel to Kalymnos.

S: Rain. Tried to get a couple of routes in before the deluge; managed one. Forecast for the coming weeks is good, so no worries.

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AJM - on 08 May 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Have a good 'un!

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guy127917 - on 08 May 2019
In reply to jackob:

Congrats, nice work on Free and Easy!

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Somerset swede basher - on 08 May 2019
In reply to jackob:

Good work on free and easy. Should give you plenty of confidence for your trip!

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Tyler - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> Intrigued by the 'worst ever bit of DIY'!

Fixing some steps in the garden, I compounded the mess this weekend - who knew rapid set concrete would set so rapidly....

> How are those knees? I find it interesting that the squats help your knees -I'm suspicious that they aggravate mine a bit! What alpine routes have you squatted your way up this week?

Although I have occasional searing pain in one knee I think they are just sore from walking so I think its just a case of strengthening them, the squats are also good for my hips as each squat forces my thighs apart at about 80 degrees which, for me, is a stretch (as well as strengthening them).

This week has again been about discovering the true bottom of the trough I have fallen into in terms of climbing ability:

T: 200 squats then circuits x 9 at the Depot

W: Went to Earl Crag after work with Strong Pete, failed on Trick Arete, backed off soloing Erasor Slab and managed one 5+ problem (multiple attempts), great to get out though.

T: Squatted my way up Gabarrou-Albinoni on the Tacul then circuits x 9 at the Depot, slight improvement on Tuesday.

F: Might have gone for a short bike ride

S: Nothing (apart from DIY disaster)

S: Despite a kind offer from Guy and Bones to climb with them in the Lakes I decided to go to Wales as Fi was overnighting in the new van there. I met up with my friend Chris, force of nature and Welsh Winter climbing legend. Despite him being even older and more injured than me (fused ankle, plated shoulder etc.) I was happy to hand over the lead to him at Tremadog. We did Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slap (E2 5c) and Silly Arete (E3 5c), I'd led the latter before and thought it ok so was shocked at how bold it seemed this time (like *really* bold!), once again re-enforcing how far I have to go to get back to any sort of level (I thought Harvey Proctors was too bold for me as well).

S: BUK with Strong Ru, didn't climb too badly all things considered, I've not been for a while so this could be a soft set. 45 mins on bike.

Post edited at 11:44
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alexm198 - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats, Tom. A very relaxed week for me, by which I mean I did literally nothing. Partly due to feeling tired at the beginning of the week, and latterly due to having a mild existential crisis about all my plans falling through and the prospect of the last 9 months of training going down the pan...

Will continue to try and make plans, get psyched, and search for my mojo.

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Ally Smith on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tyler:

There are 3 days of the week beginning with S?!?

Fancy a Nesscliffe headpoint trip at some point?

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Niall_li on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Been considering doing this for a while, so time to take the plunge!

STG - First 7A boulder outside

MTG - 7B this year

         - be in good shape for Font in Sept

LTG - 8A

General toothache and interrupted sleep for most of this week

Mon - Session in Boulderworld, for 2nd day on was feeling pretty good. Topped my first ever problem on the black circuit, flashed a 6C, 7A 2nd go and another 7A i'd played on the previous day

Tues - Had intentions of finger boarding and doing some strength training but toothache pain and sleep had me feeling lethargic. Made it to Pilates class though

Weds - AnCap session on home wall, felt pretty steady, might need to switch up my problems. bailed on finger boarding again

Thurs - Rest and a few beers

Fri - Drove to Fairhead for the weekend

Saturday - Started off badly, getting shut down on a f5 (I couldn't figure out how to pull off the ground), played about on some other problems which went better and then onto my current project Eat It (f7A) bit of a break through with a less shouldery beta through the first few moves, dropped the "easy" bit on the last move 3 times, then called it quits due to skin being done.

Sunday - back out at eat it, skin was still toast though so wasn't feeling up to much. Fell off on the last move again then went to play on some other boulders.

Might start trying some of the Rhinoskin to help toughen up the fingertip skin!

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Tyler - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> There are 3 days of the week beginning with S?!?

Oh yes, I've done BH Monday as well!

> Fancy a Nesscliffe headpoint trip at some point?

Not totally averse to that although not high on my list. I'm going to start taking midweek days off if that is of interest?

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Tyler - on 08 May 2019
In reply to alexm198:

You strike me as someone who is quite good at getting stuff done at short notice so I'm sure you'll think of something? Has the Bugs trip definitely fallen through? What's stopping you organising other stuff, lack of partners or something else?

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Ardo - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for the stats Tom. DMM approach, do more climbing now, LTG planning tomorrow.

Last week's plan

Keep diet on track. ¾ ✓

Be on holiday and climb. Maybe one training sesh, depending on partners and weather. 1 x sport, 1 x trad, no training. ½ ✓

Review LTGs. x

Mo:    General walking, 7.7 miles.

Tu:    General walking, 7.6 miles. 5 trad, (E1).

We:    General walking, 6.8 miles.

Th:    General walking, 7.5 miles.

Fr:    General walking, 6.7 miles.

Sa:    General walking, 10.0 miles.

Su:    General walking, 8.0 miles. 5 sport, (6c)

Weight: 10st 2lb/bf 15.0%

Good day of trad at Millstone: ticked off a soft E1 and took a fall on an E2, so good for the mental side of going up the grades. Bit of van shenanigans, watched some TdY live, ate, drank and recovered sufficiently to bag a couple of 6c’s at Masson on Sunday. Good holiday and almost prepared for return to work. Hashtag sad face.

Next week's plan

Keep diet on track.

Rest up after holiday and be ready to get back on the training wagon.

Review LTGs.

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alexm198 - on 08 May 2019
In reply to Tyler:

In a sense I think that's part of the problem! I'm keen to make some short notice plans to replace the trips that have fallen through, but I'm struggling to find other people who are available/willing to make plans at short notice...

Some stuff is in the pipeline though, so hopefully I can firm things up this week. It's just a bit of a shock to the system to have the stuff I've been working towards for the best part of a year go up in smoke!

Post edited at 18:56
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planetmarshall on 11 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

> PlanetMarshall -The falling situation is a bit interesting I guess? Usually clocking up some air time would be something to encourage, but still being relatively freshly healed there probably is a lot to be said for getting more low level 'stress' (i.e. the normal rigours of life) through that leg to build up resilience before you start risking higher impact stress on it. The opposite of Sean's 500 falls advice -for now... ;-p Interested to see what you come up with for LTGs -what are you going to follow Ama Dablam with?!

Just a maintenance week for me with no climbing unfortunately. Hoping to get back on the rock soon and come up with some new goals for the latter half of the year.

STG

Carry on with the max strength focus. Can't make any outdoor venues this week but might be able to drop into some indoor venues.

MTG

Pabbay

LTG

Generic fitness goals - 
* Do a typewriter pullup
* Do a problem on a Moonboard

Trad climbing - 
* The remaining Hen Cloud HVSs
Regent Street (E2 5c)

Bouldering - 
Banana Finger (f6A)

Winter - 
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)

Autumn sport climbing trip. Been a few years since I've been to Kaly. If it ain't broke...?

666 Goals

666m of single pitch E2

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Somerset swede basher - on 11 May 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

What's a typewriter pull up?

edit. Just googled it. Looks hard! 

Post edited at 21:29
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mattrm - on 19 May 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs

M - Rest

T - 4 mile walk

W - 3 mile walk

T - Rest

F - cHiiT

S - S - Weekend stuff

Normal week.  Bit of walking, bit of cHiit.  Backfill post sorry about that.  Hence no monthly stats.

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