UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_953-7824...

Derek Furze: Congratulations on being diagnosed as nice , which is a great title to have. Apart from that i am continue to be amazed about how you much actually get done despite your injuries, which is probably more than the average uninjured guy. Best of luck on your road to recovery and keep your head up.

Exile: If it makes you feel any better, from my own experience i can assure you that running fitness is also not directly transferable to fingerboarding . After last week great achievement it looks like a back to training week to me. You mentioned that you felt tired due to the hot weather, but training volume also looks high with only two easier days. Add in a little bit of work stress and i am not at all surprised that you felt a little bit knackered. If you continue to feel that way maybe it is time for a deload week.

Somerset swede basher:  Great to see that your fitness gains translated into two good trad sends. A little bit of less volume probably also helped you to be in peak shape on the weekend. It also looks like your head game was much better this time, which is maybe even more important in  trad than fitness gains.

mattrm: I am happy to hear that you had a good experience with the RCI course and learned a lot. Hopefully, you have been to apply these newly acquired skills already this week on the rock. Sorry to hear that toe is still bugging you. It is one of these annoying injuries that seems harmless but actually have a greater impact than one thinks at the first glance. I hope you managed to get an appointment with a physio and were able to identify the root cause and some rehab strategy.

Ian Parnell: Two outdoor sessions is a strong week when you have a lot of life stress. Congratulations on successfully going out of your confidence zone and sending the overhanging trad route. Good call on dialing back the volume this week and i hope that life stress will be dialing back at least a little bit soon.

Tyler: Great to hear that your elbow is feeling better and good call not to overdo it untill it is fully healed. Prioritizing your DIY project for a couple of more weeks and then focusing back on climbing seems like a good strategy to me.  Hopefully your plans align with some weather enabling you to send some great routes.

Si dH: Good call to not force things during the week and take some time off from training. Luckily you managed to do two good sessions on the weekend despite bad sleep which should be enough to stay in climbing shape. I hope the next weeks won't be too bad at work and that manage stay in shape.

AJM: Another strong rehab week and good to see your running is improving. I especially liked that you kept the first run short when you were not feeling well. No need to downplay your running PB, a PB is a PB and you should rather be proud of the fact that you are stepping out of the comfort zone and doing something new.

biscuit: 4mm undercut sounds savage for a 7a+ and given the warm conditions you should not be too frustrated about your performance. I am pretty sure that i never would have tried such a move at temperatures above 15° so kudos for even trying it. Good decision making on Light Fantastic. Somehow it is always much harder to stay cool when you were expecting a safe route and it turn out it is not, instead of trying something where you knew from the start that it was going to get spicey.

Tom Green: Some good reflections on how a sport climbing "just try hard, don't think above the fall" mentality can transfer to trad climbing. Sorry to hear that weather and available partners did line up to get some hard sport climbing done, but at least you got a good soloing day done. I hope you had more luck this week and managed to have some days outdoors.

BTphonehome: First of all my sincere condolences. It is always hard to tell before if in such a emotional hard time climbing is helpfull or if one is too destracted to focus on it. At least you made the right call to cut the session short and managed to not hurt yourself. Good to see that you quickly recovered from this unfortunate day and managed to get some good routes done despite suboptimal conditions. Hopefully, the weather allowed some outdoor climbing this week, but at least you know that the fingerboard will always be dry.

Ross Barker: Good job on the van. As somebody with two left hands i am always amazed about everyone who does such a complicated DIY task so well done. Hopefuly your finger is feeling better and i wish you an awesome trip.

mrchewy: I am very happy to hear that you extensive rehab work has paid off and that you were finally pain free. With 5 weeks time to get used to a new area and bet into climbing flow again i also would not worry too much about the time off. You will probably feel a little rusty the first sessions but by the 2nd week it should get a lot better. I hope that you managed to stay healthy and wish you a great trip.

AlanLittle: Congratulatiosn on ticking your STG goal and having an amazing trip. As somebody who seldoms climb trad (the last time i placed gear was probably a decade ago) i am seriously impressed about the crazy Elbsandstein climbing without proper gear, so well done!
Small Step: Great to hear that you had an awesome week with a lot of easier outdoor climbing. I hope this week gave you a lot of energy and motivation for the upcoming weeks.

Mon: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @20-21kg with 2 min rest

Tues: S&C: 2x10s L-Sit, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 2x12 Lunges, 2x30 Bodyweight Squats, 40 Pushups, 45s V-Situps

Wed: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @22-24kg with 2 min rest

Thur: Rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @21-22kg with 2 min rest

Sun: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @17-18kg with 2 min rest

Another week with a lot of work stress but luckily my training currently does not take a lot of time. Finger continues to get better and maybe it would be possible to introduce some light climbing already. But i rather want to play it safe and i also don't have too much time at the moment. Hence, i will probably be sticking to fingerboarding for the next month and plan to be back in the gym beginning of August.

An odd week made up of part holiday and then a frantic few days on return.

Managed a couple more walks in Gandia and plenty of dips in the sea.  Swimming still not possible though.  Also another half-day of sorting out the apartment, but it is now on the market and pleased to say it looks great, so that's the main point of the trip delivered.

I'd left my old car for a service while away, but my mechanic rang with a long list of expensive repairs, so it has had to go.  They fell about laughing when I asked whether it was safe to take to Birmingham for work!  Anyway, new one sourced.

Did 5.5km walks Wednesday and Friday, then park shuffle on Saturday, so keeping something going.  Park run times are embarrassingly slow, but running with a sling is surprisingly inhibiting!

Reflections:  GP has called me in re wrist x-ray, which is good because it has been much worse over the last couple of weeks.  Had shoulder scan yesterday, so will be able to assess whether surgery is required in ten days at review.  Will also be put up for physio at that point and am hoping for a return to some basic training.  Will ask about low level climbing, because I am going slightly mad.

Thanks!

I had a busy work week this week. Monday I went to London, worked in the London office in the day and travelled to Edinburgh mid pm. I then worked Tuesday, did a team building charity day thing on the Wednesday, and worked and then flew home again Thursday. Thankfully that's it for travel for a while.

Anyway.....

Rehab:

I did some partial rehab sessions with the stuff I could take with me whilst I was up in Edinburgh. I then failed to do some when I got back, just got distracted with other things. My shoulder is a bit sore this pm so I'm going to skip doing it today. Back on it next week. 

Running:

I went out for a jog Saturday am. Did 3 laps of the park, not the 4 that gets me to 5km, because my knee was hurting a bit. It seems to do this intermittently, the first run I did it hurt a chunk of the next day particularly when going down stairs, after that it was fine, this time it hurt a bit whilst I was running but I didn't get any after effects.

Other stuff:

I'd hoped to go for a proper walk when I was in Edinburgh, but the weather and the times I was free just didn't seem to line up. But the charity day I did a bunch of wheelbarrowing of path material up a hill, which was good exercise.

I went climbing! I went to Portland and did a little dws today. Tried to be careful of the shoulder, I'm not 100% sure if I succeeded but tomorrow is probably the test. It started off very greasy which didn't help, but it cleared up towards the end of the tide window. Nothing hard, and nothing new to me, but it's always nice to be out above the sea and I saw a few friends too that I'd not seen for a while.

Also meant to say thanks for stellar job on the stats!  I was ad libbing my stats this week and overlooked this important bit!

Thanks Randy, great minds think alike - much easier week this week.

Training / aims:

Spring / Summer 2025 climbing aims:

Weight - keep to daily 78.something kg ✓

Aim to gently reach 75kg?

Keep to training programme and climbing through what will be a full on work year.

Winter climb when available ✓

Redpoint 7b (Straight Tach, Millside Scar)

Headpoint E6 6b (Exequy, Red Wall, Trowbarrow) ✓

Onsighting harder mountain E2s (eg Equus ✓ Astra ✓ Tumbleweed Connection, Fast Burn)

*Maybe E3s (Cruel Sister, Paladin, Air on a Bow String) & E4s that suit me (One Step Beyond, Malice in Wonderland)

*Maybe Needle and Citadel (Shelterstone) in a day as Comici prep?

*Big Alpine rock route – 12 to 24hr cardio & climbing effort – Cassin / Comici? 

*Aspirational goals

Longer term climbing aims: 

Regularly have adventures in great places with good friends & family ✓

Continue Alpine route progression to complete more big classic alpine rock routes.

Continue British winter climbing ✓

Continue climbing Hard Rock type routes outside the Lakes.

Keep Head/Red Point grade in 7s ✓ and E5s ✓

Onsight up to at least E2 ✓ & V ✓ (winter) each year.

Improve while not getting injured 

M - 23.6.25 - 

W - 79.7kg

am - 40min back & leg stretching

T - 24.6.25 - 

W - 78.9kg

am - 40min Scar run

pm - Crimpd App half crimp max hand 7sec test - 79kg +18kg = +22.8% body weight.

pm - Weights B - 

Internal shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5 =

External shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5 =

B. Power pull up +20kg 2/2/2

A. Bench press with bar 3x54/64/74kg =PB. 

A. Deadlift  3x70/80/92kg PB.

B. Bent over one arm row 3x30kg/30kg/30kg =

3x front leaver progressions

W - 25.6.25 - 

W - 79.2kg

am - 40min back & leg stretching

pm - Rained off Millside Scar so climbing @ Sedgwick bridge. Old skool brick (stone) edge forearm pump.

T - 26.6.25 - 

W - 79.5kg

am - 40min back & finger stretching

F - 27.6.25 - 

W - 78.8kg

am - 40min back & finger stretching

S - 28.6.25 - 

W - ?kg

am - Fingerboard. 6x10sec +10kg 20mm edge HC. 10. 10. 10. 8. 8. 8. Something to work on! 

pm - 1hr Brunt Knott run

S - 29.6.25 - 

W - 78.2kg

am - 2hr walk

pm - Climbing @ Hodge Close. Muggy. Seconded Randolph Scott, 6b***. Led Leicester Tit Lab (6n**) Shut down on Calling the Shots (7a**)

Reflections -

I feel better for an easier week. I was hoping to get on my Millside project on Wednesday, but rain stopped play, and Hodge Close was quite wet in places today, so Malice in Wonderland wasn't happening. So be it. I felt I ran well (in the clag and drizzle - much more my style!) on Saturday. 

Alps in three weeks so concentrating on quality rather than quantity is going to be key in the coming weeks so I get stuff done but don't tire myself out with junk miles. 

Thanks Randy - appreciate the encouragement but it's not a new area for me, so sort of retro flash territory given I've not lead here since 2019 and life's been a bit odd since.

I arrived on Wed to 34°c. Thunderstorms, hail and monsoon on Thursday and it's been hot everywhere since. The forecast is mid thirties for the next few days! The two crags I wanna go to are pretty much full sun after 10am, so early starts needed.

Mon - Worked flat out to try and get the last job done but not quite.

Tue - Finished the job and then went to the boulder gym to do some hangs. It was okay, I was happy hanging one armed on the jugs, which is something I've struggled with for ever.

Wed - Travelled to Kriens, near Luzern. 10hrs including an on plane delay and a broken train in Swizzy.

Thu - A needed rest day. Chilled, read, stretched, went food shopping. The thunder was next level. I sat on the balcony in the dry watching the weather do it's thing. Van, bus, plane, train, tram and walk with 30kg of luggage had taken it's toll, so good food and a few beers was called for.

Fri - Left at 5am for 'The Beach', about one hour away in Göscheneralp. Granite, 47 routes from 6b to 8a, not in a guidebook. Abseil in and jumar out. Set 50m over the lake. It's just a stunning setting. For those who know Rachel Summerville, she can vouch for the magnificence of the crag. So went for a 20m 6b flash of Above the Fog for my warm-up, a new route for me, falling on the layback due bringing my right foot too high and making clipping impossible for me. Then TR flashed a new 20m 6c - tightish rope on the crux, lots of mantels and a thin crux. Then led the 6b next go, so really happy with the day. It was hot, sweaty hot in the middle thirties. The jumaring wiped me out. Serious swelling in the right knee that evening, with sharp pains. Happily the left knee/leg was totally fine, so I was happy.

Sat - Rest day. Right knee wasn't good, so skipped the easy mountain walk with Rene's mother and did ice, ultrasound, stretching and massage, followed by a dose of 600mg ibuprofen before bed.

Sun - Left at 5am, to the 'The Beach'. Warmed up by top roping Ring of Fire, a strenuous layback 6b+. I led it once in 2018 after tons of practice and just found it a struggle, always ending up with blood down my legs. Top.roped it clean, had to pull hard but always felt in control for the whole 30+ metres. Next, led Anxiety Neurosis 6b+, taking rests everywhere I could - a slow grind after the strong start but I was super happy to clip the chains at 35m. After, TRed Stormy 6b+ clean, which I was really happy with - almost 40m long and half of it steep and flaky. Apart from getting my foot stuck in a jam, I managed to climb it without pulling hard at all. At 10am, straight after I was lowered, we all declared it too hot and went to the bar, drinking beer in the gasthaus with a perfect view of the glacier that dominates the valley. I was pretty content.

So the revised goal for the trip was 6b+ and on day two, it's done. I'm really chuffed, I didn't expect it. I seemed to have stepped back onto granite about where I was before covid but with a thoracic spine that works after all the CARS for the last 2½ years. Doing weights for a few months regularly also helped with the laybacking.

Dragonfly, the 6c I TR flashed, is probably the next goal. It's thin, small holds on the crux with no feet but perhaps suits me. I'm definitely going to get on the 7a I mentioned before at some point in the trip.

The weather looks grim hot for the next few days, so probably won't climb and maybe go for a walk locally but early doors. Salbit Südgrat is planned for a week tomorrow. Feeling confident that the legs will be fine for it, the climbing will be easy after this week - yeah, really pyched to be back on granite.

I've only led one 6c before but don't see why I can't do another one this trip. Happy days.

Have a great week everyone!

Yeah, it was absolutely immense! Ended up putting my earplugs in just for a bit of peace in the back of the van. Never seen rain or hail like it, a different kettle of fish to the Met Office yellow weather warnings!

Where are you currently then Ross?

Sounds like a strong start, nice one!

Currently in Liguria, but I was in Gottardo until Saturday

Thanks for doing the stats Randy.  

Weight - 14st
STG - 6b

MTG - 6c - 14/100 routes/problems this year

LTG - Western Front Direct (7a) at Navigation Quarry

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - 5k fell run
T - 7k and 282m asc fell run
W - 45mins MTB
T - Rest
F - Rest 
S - Rest
S - Rest

KMs - 13 kms

The plan for Wednesday had been to climb, but sadly, couldn't make it work with any of my regular partners.  Toe is still grumbly it's a very low grade ache.  The run was sort of ok, but again definitely painful by the end of the run.  Went out mountain biking with my son on Wednesday and the toe was very sore afterwards.  Been feeling quite fatigued as well, so in a way good I didn't go out on Wednesday, I basically ended up sleeping most of the day away (Wednesday is a day off).  I kinda feel like the toe is mtb related at this point.  I've massively increased the amount of time I've been spending on my bike.  I've gone from clipless to flats and when I'm out of the saddle I'm probably on my toes too much.  Plus it's been a niggle since my ultra last year.  Just surprising that it's ticked over from minor niggle to something fairly painful in the course of a couple of weeks.  Oh well, hopefully I'll get it sorted out soon.

Thanks Randy, yes, all moving in the right direction.

Mon. 5km run, 150m vert.

Tues. Made some good links on my link up project. Probably worth 7c+ for the best two links and 7c on my last go. I'm falling off the last hard move now but you could still drop the very end. Slight finger tweak.

Wed. 26km with 400m vert on the bike.

Thurs. 90mins unstructured indoor bouldering with the boy. Probably nothing harder than 6C.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Goddard's quarry onsight sport. A handful of 6s to warm up. Then Red Mist (7a) followed by Crustacean (7a+) followed by Blue Funk (7b+). This last one is technically my first onsight lead at the grade but it's probably only 7b, I didn't think it was as hard as something like cave route right but my barometer for difficulty is a bit out at the moment as I've done a period of fairly focussed training so I don't know really. Some finger grumbles but not too bad. 2.5km run to collect the take away later on.

Sun. 3.5km junior fell run, 5x5 pull ups and 3x10press ups.

Looking forward to getting back on my link up project on Wednesday, I think it's close now.

My weeks are morphing into one, even to the point where I seem to be going to the same crag when I do get out although that’s not quite true. This week I visited three crags and picked up a new project as I don’t have enough unfinished business…

I’m crazy tired at the moment with no proper rest days given the combo of climbing and DIY. My back is sore and my elbow is red lining but I’m super excited because tomorrow is my last day of work for some indeterminate amount of time, possibly forever! I’ve got so much I want to do but July is going to be dominated by DIY and a family visit. After that I’ll be doing a lot more climbing and would like to finish off some of the following (in order of how close they are to completion):

Pearl Necklace

Kleptomania

Don’t Scare the Hare

White Hopes

Prime the Pump

Foulish Ghoulish

Half Light

In addition I want to

OS E4 

Visit some classics further afield and use the van a bit more

Cycle Traws Eryri

Clean some local routes 

Welsh 1000 meters

Regular yoga

Get below 11 stone

Swim in the sea a bit

Over the winter I want to:

Finish the garden

Start work on the annexe

Go on an extended sport climbing trip to a destination Fi will enjoy

Thanks Randy. This week has been a bit better than last I think, in terms of training. My diet was a bit on/off. Weight is still coming down and I've been sensible on these trips away so far (one more to come this week) - but it has broken the rhythm a bit.

My goals:

- to make the most of my half-days out (twice a month weather-permitting)

- fingerboard training twice a week (new goal to be able to train at bodyweight +25kg for 10 s hangs)

- gradually improve my right elbow to the point that I can do weighted pull up training

- keep up the current diet, which has gone well so far (~1900 kcal per day + exercise, LTG is back down to ~75kg from a starting weight of about 84.5kg on 13/04)

This week:

M: rest

T: fingerboard in afternoon. 4*10 second max hangs with bodyweight +20kg. The first two felt fine, the last two hard. 2*2 pull-ups with bw+20kg. 1*2 pull-ups with bw+30kg. Pleased this didn't cause any pain and I had good form, probably a good training weight but I wouldn't want to do it too often at the moment. 3*10 second hangs on a 10mm edge with feet on a chair.

W: rest 

T: I tried some active pulls on my portable fingerboard in the hotel room on a work trip. 3 x 10 seconds with a crimp and 3 shorter pulls with middle 2 only. It was difficult to know how effective it was but hopefully better than nothing!

F: away with work/rest

S: morning session at the Climbing Hangar while son No. 1 was at rock club. I managed 3 new whites, it was really hot but I felt like I was climbing pretty well considering that. One of them had a modern style sideways jump to start, which I was shaking my head at as I was pulling on, then somehow stuck it first go! It's not often that happens on those style of moves.

S: a short morning session on the home board. I just did my old warm ups and then made some stuff up but I felt pretty good on it, which was nice. I felt my elbows a tiny bit afterwards (not pain, but just that feeling they had been slightly over-worked, I guess due to pulling hard two days on). Did a small bit of rehab in response. Bodyweight in evening 76.9 kg.

I'm hoping to take the boys away camping next weekend. I'll try to get a bit of bouldering and a bit of walking done with them.  I suspect that sleeping is going to be a bit epic with all three of us in a small 2.5 man tent! 

Si

Thank you for your stating Randy, and the good to hear your finger is on the mend. I’m afraid the life stresses I have aren’t ones that are likely to go away too soon. In fact they’ll almost certainly get worse as my parents continue to decline. I just need to make sure I keep looking after myself. I do find the climbing helps relieve some of the pressure. Interestingly my partner who I was trying Brachiation Dance, has just had a couple of weeks off work (and climbing) sorting out his elderly parents – one of the reasons I’ve not been able to get back on the project.

STG - 7b (1-2 months)

MTG - (1-4 months) – Brachiation Dance (7b+)

LTG – 15 grade 7 sport routes (12/15) with 6 at 7a+ or above (3/6)

Mon – Nothing

Tuesday – Depot. Warm up of 4 x white, blue, black, red, had 40 mins on the 50 degree woodie. Probably 15 efforts in total. Closer on the elusive 5th move of the left hand side problem. Getting the hold 3 times but not able to keep feet on or control swing off. Lu raises with 5kg 3 x 10reps. External rotations 4kg 3 x 10 reps. 3 x 6 strict push ups on handles. Decent training day, slightly upping the weights.

Wednesday – 25 mins pre work run on treadmill. First time in yonks. Felt terrible and my Achilles felt a little tweaky.

Thursday – Depot, pre work session. Warm up of 4 x white, blue, black, red, had 10 mins on the 50 degree Woodie – felt very tired and unmotivated. Stopped before I got injured and tried another 8-9 reds got up 3, and close on another 4. Poor session.

Fri – Nothing.

Saturday – John Henry Quarry. My friend’s choice and nice to get a new crag tick. Surprisingly good spot with 25m walls overhanging 5 degrees. Did Ferny Lee Crack (E1 5b), then the tough for the grade Desperate Straights (E2 5b) which took a couple of goes with the first attempt ending in a pretty sizeable fall. Finished with Mr Friendly (Hey Mister) (E3 5c). Initially I couldn’t do the first crux 3m up so pulled on the gear, but then redpointed it afterwards and it felt much closer to a 6a move than 5c, and the whole route not far off 6c sport grade. Not climbing at my best but some of the better quarried grit routes I’ve done.

Sunday – Nothing.

Reflection - Felt pretty fatigued all week. I need to keep an eye that I don’t burn myself out. I think the high levels of life stress mean I’m not recovering as well as I might normally. I’ve a fair amount of tightness, muscle aches and complaints and energy levels feel low with the ‘heavy’ heat at the moment. To counter act this I’ve been making sure I get out with my camera in nature which I’ve found to be the best stress reliever for me personally.

Thanks Randy. No more sandstone madness this week, sadly. Stomach bug, crushing heat, and stuff to catch up on at home after the trip to Saxony all made for a rather low key week.

STG: Resume local sport climbing
MTG: Summer '25 - Dolomites and/or Swiss granite. Salbit hut booked.
LTG: Autumn '25 - tufa 7a
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823

M - W:    I seem to have picked up a stomach bug in Saxony. A few kilos lighter now, yay - although presumably only until such time as eating starts to seem like an appealing idea again

T:    Easing back in. An hour on the bike and half an hour stretching

F:    Thalkirchen. Back on the "don't want to boulder again just yet because the finger is still sore, so try some harder lead routes instead" programme. Or at least trying to be back on it. A few days off my feed may have made be a bit lighter but they certainly haven't made me any stronger. Woeful session.
    Bike 1½ hours

S:    Bike one hour

S:    Freimann. Started the aerobic endurance campaign for the autumn with a dozen routes in the 6a/b range, mostly with only short rests and some doubles.
    Bike there & back about 2½ hours (and about 2½ lites of fluid sweated each way, it felt like)
 

You probably got the worst of it then. I never moan to my Swiss friends about the English weather - they get some crazy stuff.

Cheers Andy - it's nice to get the first fall out of the way, I've hardly lead indoors since Spain and didn't know how I'd be on harder stuff.

I'm even thinking it'd be nice to try some trad again when I get back... it's been ten years!

Indeed. Munich is at nearly 2000 feet, and I noticed when I first moved here that the clouds look visibly closer than they did in Manchester. The thunderstorms can be apocalyptic - don't remember ever experiencing anything like them back when I still lived in the UK

Otoh we used to get proper winters, which were one of the things I loved in my first few years here. Not any more though.

Hey y'all. Thanks for the statts, Randy.

Week 26:

Rearranged the original week plan, with it ending up being a poor week for training, but a good week for climbing.

M: Nothing -ran out of day.

T: CARs, Prehab.

W: Climbing. Sport at Llanddulas -reacquainted myself with Pearl from the Shell (6c+) -slightly crap working tactics, but have the moves worked out now. Finger started feeling a bit tweaky, so quit while I was ahead. Hopefully it will go quickly next visit. Good session for doing a few hard moves and taking a few little falls.

T: Run. 5.7km, 51m vert, 4:56/km. Had a very limited time window so had to run faster than I'm used to to fit it in! Felt fun pushing the pace.

F: Climbing. Sport at Two Tier. Worked Case Adjourned (7a) getting all the moves done, but no tick. Achieved the main objective of pulling hard and a bit more gentle fall practice.

S: Rest.

S: Climbing. Trad at UPT. Good to get back to some trad success with Precious Metal (E1 5b) and Primrose Walk (E2 5b)

Week 27:

M: CARs, Prehab.

T: Climbing.

W: Run.

T: Either climbing or CARs, Prehab, Board.

F: CARs, Prehab.

S: Climbing.

S: CARs, Prehab, Fingers.

STG (End July):

Five E2s (1/5)

Three E3s (0/3)

Get on a safe E4 (Tick! x1)

Onsight 6c 

LTG (Nov 2025):

40 E-points (30/40)

Onsight E4.

Good morning everyone, hope you're all well.

Thanks, it's not the best work, the countertop is a little warped, the tap is a bit leaky and the cupboard doors are a bit jammy, but I'm proud of myself.

It's feeling better than it was on the preceding board session a week ago, not a big issue on rock which I'm pleased to report.

A great short week in Gottardo, brilliant location, and even managed a few hard boulders. Chironico looked cool but I don't think it'll replace Font as the usual early spring trip.

Last Week:

Avg weight - No idea!

M - Rest/travel. A little recce around Gottardo after dinner.

T - Gotthard Pass day one. Started at sector Suworow, typically began on decent low grade stuff to learn the rock a bit. After a couple hours landed at the eponymous Suworow, Boulder 1, Problem b (Suworow) (f7B+) and got to work. Got the lower half quick, but the top half needed a bit of figuring out. I eventually found myself at the last move and did the typical thing of not committing to fully grabbing the lip despite being positive. Had a few goes from the deck but the sun was blinding and power was waning. Made sure to actually stick the lip move in isolation so I know what I'm doing when I get there. Had about a 6h break where I walked around, played Pokémon and cooked dinner, then returned for cool evening conditions. First go, still warming up, fell off the penultimate slap. Second go, hit the lip but my other hand slipped off. Third go, stuck it and topped out. Bosh!

W - Warmed up at sector Shark, briefly sussed the moves on Time Machine (not on UKC?) as a friend wants to try it later. Moved onto an iconic bloc, Trieste-Gottardo, Boulder 4, Problem a (Ecstasy) (f7C+), absolutely fantastic but a bit hard for a hot day with thin skin! Edit: Just to be clear I didn't finish it!

T - Attempted to climb this morning but the heavens opened when I put the pads down at 8:30. Drove to Chironico for a sweaty walk. Interesting place but hard to tell what's what without a guide. Hopefully I got all the ticks off afterwards! Heavy afternoon rains, stayed low in the valley until it cleared.

F - Started the day at sector Greta Garbo, and had an absolutely wonderful time. Loads of cool moves, every problem was great. Highlights were Greta Garbo (f7B+), big moves on upside down holds and smeary feet, and Gengar (f7A) which was a tasty flash and a rad sequence. Ambled over to sector Scary Christmas, almost fell in the river, and climbed Ponstan 500, Boulder 9, Problem f (Scary Christmas) (f6C+) despite the protests from my skin. Wobbled up a nice slab Lupo Lupone, Boulder 8, Problem b (Scary Christmas) (f5+) to finish, and chilled out at camp for a few hours. Good for the soul.

S - Didn't make enough time for a morning climb (skin wouldn't handle it anyway, I reckon), so drove over to Bergamo to pick up my wife. Sweaty 36⁰C drive to Liguria tested the van's AC to the limit, but made it in one sweaty piece.

S - Walking, swimming, eating.

Next Week:

M to S - Normal holidaying.

S - Back to Gottardo?

Goals:

Gelato and Pizza PBs.

Wow!  That's a productive trip Ross!  Going well.

Week 24

M – Nowt.

T – Felt a bit awful warming up but managed to get going after an hour. Did a 7C and 8A, but not the (8A+?) link I was hoping to do. Worked in several sections, then RP’d a 7C newbie. Then played on low link of River Runs Dry into Firestarter, which felt brick hard, but maybe I was just powered out?

W – Rest

T – Ride. 20km. 44min. Horrid headwind on the way home.

F – M2/F2/B2/M3/B3 Repeaters at BW. Bench press up to 66kg double, superset with 6x3 pinkie mono assisted OAPUs.

S – Travel to Crete.

S – Feet up and relax.

Week 25

Crete holiday.

Swimming, poolside pull-ups and 3x Force Board recruitment pulls (overcoming isometrics).

Week 26

2nd week of Crete holiday.

Swimming, poolside pull-ups and 3x Force Board recruitment pulls (overcoming isometrics).

Sunday – 27km, 60min flat road ride.

Thanks Randy.

I kind of feel like June has got away from me with another week disrupted by the weather.

M - Gym - leg focussed session 

T -  Off to N wales

W - Went to Rhoscolyn. Damp and the wind was very humid so not feeling optimistic about it drying out. Bailed to Holyhead Mountain.

Seconded King Bee Crack (HVS 5a) and had a bash at Final Solution (E3 5c).

It was probably the best I've felt on a route all year. Good decisions, climbing steady, good gear placements. Got to the crux and realised it was raining. Quite hard. I had been sheltered for most of it but poor Rach was quite a soggy belayer.

I hung around at the pumpy crux for a very long time (during which it got wetter obviously) and decided I didn't fancy it. The crux revolved around quartz holds which were feeling very slippy in the rain and I put my foot in the crack to move up and it slipped.

I love that section of wall and definitely will be back to finish it off and for a look at the other routes there.

I lowered off and abbed to get the gear, which also went a bit wrong and we were both quite cold and wet by the end of all that.

Drove home in disgust.

T - Rest day 

F - Millstone. Tried Embankment 2 (VS 4c) as a combo of using the big and little cracks. It felt awful. Looking back I should have just laybacked it at VS. I scuttled off in shame to second Rach on Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a) and then led Plexity (HVS 5a). Lovely hand jams, I can do those!

We then bailed for a nice cup of tea and cake at a friends house and got to see Ben Bransby's sourdough skills. Which are nearly as good as his climbing skills!

S - Work

S - No exercise but a lovely family BBQ.

Good work! Sounds like a great trip.

Thanks Randy for your kind words and feedback. Much appreciated. Glad to read that your finger is still improving. 

but at least you know that the fingerboard will always be dry.

What a great phrase!

w/c 23.06.25

Monday

AM – on/off planks: 4x30sec, On/off side planks: 2x 30sec, hollow body holds: 2x30sec, 6-minute core.

PM – 5km flat run locally.

Tuesday

AM – 5x5 shoulder shrugs, Max Hangs: 6x10sec @ 1x10kg, 5x15kg.

PM – Little Depot: 12x blacks, 10x reds (2x DNF). Intervals: 10x 14 move V2 on the minute. Pull Set: Max PU: 5x3 @ 20, 24 ,24, 24, 24, 24, 24kg (PB), Hammer Curls: 3x8 @ 10kg, Bicep Curls: 3x8 @12.5kg, Bent Rows: 3x8 @ 20kg. Hip mobility.

Wednesday

AM – Rest

PM – Little Depot: 5x5 shoulder shrugs, 16x blues, 1min on-1min off x10. Push Set: External Rotations: 3x8 @ 7.5kg, Lateral Raise: 3x8 @ 7.5, 7.5, 10kg, Chest Press: 3x8 @ 15kg, Shoulder Press: 3x8 @ 15kg.

Thursday

Rest

Friday

Steady afternoon plodding at a very breezy Stanage Popular. Nothing remarkable. Followed and led two VS’s each plus a few solos. Hayfever misery at the crag!

Saturday

Followed in Tom’s and Tyler’s footsteps to Llanddulas Cave. Super humid. Put the clips in Dulas Ditchwater (6c) then led. Bolt to bolt on Pearl from the Shell (6c+) which I was on this time last year but never returned. Moves sorted on a rope. Didn’t have the beans for a lead but should go when I get back (hopefully in less than a year!).

Sunday

Quick hit at Wilton 1. Another humid crag! Tossed for the lead of Bohemia (E2 5c) which my mate ‘won’. I then led on his gear. Another cracker at Wilton 1 that has been cleaned up with a lower off installed. Hopefully will see some more traffic now.

Life admin then a nice evening walk locally.

Summary

A couple of good training sessions mid-week at a very hot and humid Depot. Very thankful for the installation of a couple of massive fans! A varied weekend resulting from trying to read the weather runestones. But a good catch up with my mate with some steady ticking and trying hard both on sport and trad. Have taken a lot from the different days which is good. 

Have a great week everyone.

Just to prove that I am lurking, I shall comment and then slink back into the shadows form whence I came...

I once got told by a coach that with flats you're aiming for the vert/diagonal line on the inside edge of the sole of your 5:10s to be just in front of the centre of your pedal, so foot much further forward than most people find intuitive...

Interesting experience yesterday. Since it's far too hot in Central Europe at the moment to move (or even exist) outdoors, I got the tube to work instead of riding the bike, and in the evening did a couple of laps of the stairs in the office building.

This is a long intervals session (40 floors, ~140 metres vert, 10 minutes per lap). I used to due it quite regularly pre-pandemic but haven't much lately, and to be honest had some trepidation - it's a far more intense short effort than I ever do on the bike or on the hill. And although I was dreading it beforehand, afterwards I got a feeling of euphoric wellbeing that lasted the whole evening. Have I just had my first encounter with runner's high?

Could be oxygen deprivation?

Although I love climbing and the training that goes with it I never quite get from it the same sense of wellbeing that follows a good cardio effort. 

Excellent point, thanks!  I'd agree totally with it.  Thinking back to all the riding I've done with SPDs (they were trendy back in the day) my foot position was much further forward, so I've gone back to that and much less pain when riding.  Still aching, but no where near as bad as last week.  Which wasn't hideous amounts of pain, just enough to be annoying and worrying.