Neil Gresham


About


United Kingdom
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Neil has performed at a high level in every discipline from Deep Water Soloing to Sport, Ice and Traditional climbing for over two decades. In the UK he made the third ascent of Indian Face (E9 6c) in 1995 and the second ascent of Equilibrium (E10 7a) in 2001, both which were widely regarded as the hardest of their genre in the world at the time. Recently, he has gone on to excel in deep water soloing and sport climbing.


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Best IFSC Results

This athlete has competed internationally


Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Neil

he drag/open grip is useful but less effective  © Nick Brown - UKC

Skills Handholds and Grip Technique

Neil Gresham gets to grips with handholds: Page-one of climbing technique is making the best use of the holds, and this became apparent when we looked at footwork earlier in this series. Climbers have a habit of analysing footwork but we often tak...

Volumes are 'heel-hook magnets'.  © Nick Brown - UKC
Volumes are 'heel-hook magnets'.  © Nick Brown - UKC

Skills Technique - Heel Hooking

Neil Gresham takes a look at another fundamental weapon in the climbing armoury: the heel hook. With guest coach - Louis Parkinson.

The First Order, 6c+  © Alastair Lee / Posing Productions
The First Order, 6c+  © Alastair Lee / Posing Productions

Destination Guide Hodge Close Quarry - An Unlikely DWS Paradise

Neil Gresham takes a closer look at what could either be a chossy hole in the ground or a quirky treasure trove filled with some of the least likely DWS classics you've ever seen.

Smedging on a tiny screw-on.   © Nick Brown - UKC
Smedging on a tiny screw-on.   © Nick Brown - UKC

Skills Technique - Use of the Toe

In this article, Neil Gresham examines the main ways to use the toe. Most will know the basic definitions, so instead he focusses on...

Neil on the steep line of Fearless E9.  © Neil Gresham
Neil on the steep line of Fearless E9.  © Neil Gresham

News New Dove Crag E9 by Neil Gresham: Fearless

Neil Gresham has established a new E9 6c at Dove Crag, which he has named Fearless. The route takes the most direct...

Neil Gresham Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC
Neil Gresham Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC

Skills Technique - Choosing your footwear

You can study footwork all you like, but if you have the wrong shoes you can never hope to get the most from your feet. Forget...

Always make a conscious effort to be strict with form, especially when it comes to placing your feet.  © UKC
Always make a conscious effort to be strict with form, especially when it comes to placing your feet.  © UKC

Skills Technique - General approach and long-term development

Technique is the essence of climbing. It is thanks to the magic powers of movement that skilful women...

New Osprey athlete Neil Gresham  © UKC Gear
New Osprey athlete Neil Gresham  © UKC Gear

Press Release Osprey Europe welcomes Neil Gresham

Neil Gresham on his new route Sabotage 8c+  © Ian Parnell Photography
Neil Gresham on his new route Sabotage 8c+  © Ian Parnell Photography

News Sabotage: New Malham 8c+ by Neil Gresham

Neil Gresham: The Hangboard Guru at Work  © Karl Gregory
Neil Gresham: The Hangboard Guru at Work  © Karl Gregory

Skills Neil Gresham & Hangboard Guru's Fingerboarding Tips

Neil Freakshow  © UKC News
Neil Freakshow  © UKC News

Video Neil Gresham's Freakshow

Another new line for Neil Gresham: Premonition 8b+  © Rich Heap/Lyon Equipment
Another new line for Neil Gresham: Premonition 8b+  © Rich Heap/Lyon Equipment

News Neil Gresham Defends Retro Bolts at Kilnsey

Neil Gresham Top Trump  © UKClimbing.com
Neil Gresham Top Trump  © UKClimbing.com

Features House of Cards by Neil Gresham

Neil Gresham Top Trump  © UKClimbing.com
Neil Gresham Top Trump  © UKClimbing.com

Podcast Neil Gresham talks about Indian Face

Neil, looking like an Olympiad himself, wearing his shorty wetsuit early this summer (Look at those guns!).  © Martin Allen
Neil, looking like an Olympiad himself, wearing his shorty wetsuit early this summer (Look at those guns!).  © Martin Allen

News Neil Gresham - Olympiad 8b - VIDEO

The new Petzl Ange, using a single wire post for the gate  © Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com
The new Petzl Ange, using a single wire post for the gate  © Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com

Video Neil Gresham Discusses the Petzl Ange Carabiner

Todd Skinner's classic 7b+ on Moon Hill  © dr evil
Todd Skinner's classic 7b+ on Moon Hill  © dr evil

Features I Want That Job! - Neil Gresham, Pro Climber and Coach


Latest Reviews for Neil's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

Sport Climbing Harness review  © UKC Gear

Lightweight Sport Climbing Harnesses

For a dedicated sport climbing harness you will want something light, comfortable and fairly simple. In this group test the UKC team go through some of the best lightweight sport harnesses on offer.

Trango portrait  © Toby Archer
Trango portrait  © Toby Archer

La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX

With a lightweight upper and an excellent balance of support and nimble-footedness, the Trango Tower Extreme GTX are superb technical mountain boots, says Toby Archer. So it's a shame the soles seem to wear so quickly.

The Rolling Transporter is robust and weatherproof enough for most travel situations  © Dan Bailey
The Rolling Transporter is robust and weatherproof enough for most travel situations  © Dan Bailey

Osprey Rolling Transporter 40

If you're after wheeled luggage with the knock-about toughness and practicality of a duffel bag, then this a great option, says Dan Bailey. But it's not an off-roader.

They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear
They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear

Petzl NOMIC and ERGONOMIC

Martin McKenna makes the best of a lean season to trial Petzl's two new top-end technical ice tools.

Skarab 30 thumbnail  © Pegs Bailey
Skarab 30 thumbnail  © Pegs Bailey

Osprey Skarab 30 Pack

This versatile day pack is well suited to hillwalking and general outdoor life, says Dan Bailey. It'll even do you for a lightweight hut...

Double thumbs up for the Skwamas...and knee bar rests...  © UKC Gear
Double thumbs up for the Skwamas...and knee bar rests...  © UKC Gear

La Sportiva Women's Otaki & Skwama

In 2018 La Sportiva greatly increased their range of women's climbing shoes. From this extended range, the Skwama and Otaki...

mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear
mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear

All Round B1-B2 Mountain Boots

Mountaineering involves all sorts of terrain, so a general mountain boot has to be an all-rounder. We look at eight models that...


Latest News from Neil's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

Enhanced Protection  © Petzl

Petzl Helmets - Top and Side Protection

Petzl's latest helmets guarantee a certain level of protection throughout the entire helmet and not just the top. These helmets carry Petzl's proprietary label--TOP AND SIDE PROTECTION--for easy identification.

La Sportiva Bushido II

The Bushido II is a super light, extra grippy and aggressive shoe designed to ensure perfect stability and support on all types of off-road terrain from canal foot paths to the trail of the Lake District.

Rook & Renn Hero  © Osprey
Rook & Renn Hero  © Osprey

Osprey Rook & Renn

With a simple, progressive design, the Rook and women's specific fit Renn are built for backpacking comfort and fit.

Tempest Hero  © Osprey
Tempest Hero  © Osprey

Osprey: Celebrating 25 Years of Women's Fit

The innovation of comfort and performance should never be met with a 'one size fits all' approach. It's for...

Osprey's New Kestrel and Kyte. Off The Grid

With a proven legacy, the new Kestrel, and the women's specific Kyte are rugged, high performance backpacks for...

ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC
ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Footwear and Packs

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of gigantic...

ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC
ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Climbing Hardware Roundup

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of...