#11 Tyrolean Trad, Bouldering Beasts and 9b Repeats
In a busy week of UK news, there were some ascents which flew a little under the radar both at home and abroad...
Another new Font 8B+ by Aidan Roberts
Us editors at UKC need a red phone that connects us directly with Aidan. It seems like not a week goes by where he doesn't climb an impressive, sought-after project. His latest addition is at the Kentmere Boulders and tackles The Karma of Trees from a sit start. He has named the problem Tranquillitas and describes it as the'most unexpected' of his ascents this summer.
Aidan had tried the project several times over the years and only completed the crux move for the first time this year, which he believes is one of his hardest moves to date. The fingery problem weighs in at Font 8B+, but Aidan has explained that he believes aspirant ascentionists will need 8C level strength in their right hand - is it just me or has bouldering become quite specific...?
First 8B by Mia Krampl
Olympic-qualified Slovenian athlete Mia Krampl has ticked her first 8B Wrestling with an Alligator at Austria's Maltatal in just two sessions.
Hyunbin Min Climbs New 9b in South Korea
South Korean Hyunbin Min has established the country's first 9b, calling the route Soul Rock Dance. Min used to be a regular on the competition circuit and won a Lead World Cup in 2014 and achieving a podium place as recently as 2013. The route took him 11 redpoint attempts over a period of 5 days.
The 31-year-old had previously climbed as hard as 9a+ with an ascent of Open Your Mind Direct at Santa Linya.
Another 9b for Jorge Diaz-Rullo
21-year-old Jorge Diaz Rullo has climbed Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat (9b) at La Cova de l'Ocell. This was the Spanish sport climber's 5th 9b. He completed the route after over 30 days of working the route and battling heat, rain, and even a robbery. He wrote on his Instagram 'It's never easy to climb something that is at your maximum level, but doing it has given me a lot of motivation!'
Chris Sharma climbed the route in 2015 and suggested 9b/+. It was repeated by Jakob Schubert who suggested hard 9a+ and then by Felipe Camargo who believed it to be 9b.
Ying Yang 8b (450m) by Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard
Della Bordella and Schüpbach made the first free ascent of the route on the Gross Wellhorn in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland on 25 August, but on the following day Glatthard inverted and hit his head on the wall during a redpoint attempt. He escaped relatively unharmed, but it was nonetheless a 'close call'. A video of their climb has been released:
Sabotage 8c+ repeated by Jon Freeman
Neil Gresham's Malham 2016 extension to Predator 8b, Sabotage 8c+, has seen its first repeat by Jon Freeman. Alongside Steve McClure's completion of Neil's project to create Fixation, it's been a busy week at the Cove!
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by train and bike
Continuing Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse's recent eco-tour theme, Hannes Hohenwarter and Martin Sieberer have completed a 'Tyrolean Trad Trilogy' in Austria. The challenge consisted of three classic limestone trad routes, which the team wanted - and managed - to climb in three consecutive days: Locker vom Hocker (UIAA VIII) on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte (VIII-) in the Karwendel and Pumprisse (VII) in the Wilder Kaiser.
VIDEO: Daniel Woods on Blade Runner (Font 8C)
Mellow have released the footage of Daniel Woods climbing Blade Runner (Font 8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Giuliano Cameroni problem has now had four ascents in total. Watch the video below: