#34 Hard Trad First Ascents and Repeats
A quiet week with some hard trad going down...
New Profile Wall 8a+ trad crack by Pete Whittaker
Pete Whittaker has made the first ascent of a new line on Profilveggen in Rogaland, Norway, which goes at 8a+ and has been named Feta Kake. The line includes a reachy 'cartwheel' move, a burly dihedral and a 'delicate' offwidth, as Pete described it. Last year, Pete completed every line on the wall, which is home to the famous Recovery Drink 8c+ (trad).
New Craig Dorys E7 by Bullock and Lovatt
Mick Lovatt and Nick Bullock have added a new two-pitch E7 (6b, 6a) to their beloved Craig Dorys on the Lleyn Peninsula. Named 'Now we're Suckin' Diesel', the line follows steep terrain up the Little Ug wall. Since Dorys is notoriously chossy, Mick told DMM that for the belay ledge he recommends "Placing as many [cams] as you can stuff in the dirty breaks at the back of it". Mick also added a new E7 to Rhoscolyyn's Painted Wall the previous day, called Sunning the 4th Eye.
First repeat of Dinas in the Oven E7 6b by Calum Muskett
Calum Muskett has made the second ascent of Nick Dixon's Dinas in the Oven on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. The line was first climbed in 1988 and waited 33 years for a repeat.
Always a pleasure to get up to Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. Removed a 'bomber' rurp from an E9, made the 2nd ascent of the pun-tastic 'Dinas in the Oven' before Jamie launched us up the all time classic 'Great Wall' to finish. pic.twitter.com/h3MzRFbOKQ
— Calum Muskett (@CalumMuskett) June 19, 2021