UKC

My Favourite Route: Emma Twyford - Capella (E1 5b) into Golden Slipper (HVS 5a)

© Emma Twyford

To pick out one favourite route is an impossible task. There are so many I could have chosen, for so many very different reasons.

I was incredibly lucky to grow up learning the art of trad climbing in the Lake District, swinging around on trees at the bottom of Shepherd's Crag as a gap-toothed seven-year-old, getting hauled up routes in my full-body harness.

Shepherd's Crag was the hub of social activity with a fantastic cafe where you could eat cake and drink tea after a wonderful day of adventure. The Lake District was the home ground of some legends; and you'd often hear stories like those of Ray McHaffie climbing Little Cham in boxing gloves and roller skates, or Dave Birkett and his latest notoriously hard trad route.

I think my love affair with the Lake District and climbing started when my dad brought home the film Lakeland Rock; though I can't say my brother or sister were too thrilled. I was in awe watching the likes of Whillans on Dovedale Groove (E1 5b) and Livesey offering to dangle a fiver over the edge to help encourage Bonnington up Footless Crow (E6 6c)!

I have many fantastic childhood memories of climbing in the Langdales. In particular, climbing on Gimmer Crag with Angela Soper, and some fun - and harrowing - adventures with James McHaffie. But I'd be hard pressed to give vivid and in-depth memories of most of these experiences that would do the routes justice!

One route where the memories are strong, though, is a link-up of Capella (E1 5b) into Golden Slipper (HVS 5a), at Pavey Ark.

There are theories on where the name 'Pavey Ark' comes from. Though not confirmed, it generally seems to be agreed that Pavey comes from a thirteenth century female name of "Pavia". As for where the 'Ark' comes from, my favourite theory is that Pavia had a milking shed (Ark) in Mill Gill (now Stickle Ghyll).

Capella was first climbed in 1997 by G. Swainbank and C. Read, so is a relatively modern route compared to Pavia and her milk shed, and, looking back now, I'm surprised that it took so long to receive its first ascent. I would have been the tender age of 11 at this time.

Being greedy, I chose to link this into another classic route called Golden Slipper; first climbed by J. Austin and R. Evans in 1958. This route has been around for longer!

photo
UKC user Paul Clarke climbing Golden Slipper in August 1973

It always blows my mind at the level of climbing achieved with the equipment they would have had at this time. Even with the modern equipment we have today, the excitement on these routes is not to be sniffed at or underestimated.

As you drive down the Langdale valley, it's hard not to be in awe of how beautiful the scenery is, though full concentration is required on the small and winding roads!

Excitement builds as you park up at the National Trust Car Park by Stickle Barn, though it's advisable to arrive early as the walk to Stickle Tarn and the scramble up Jack's Rake are incredibly popular in the summer months.

Marti Hallett on Golden Slipper  © Mike Hutton
Marti Hallett on Golden Slipper
© Mike Hutton

It's an incredible juxtaposition, to one moment be amongst the crowds, and then, with just one little change in direction, to find yourself suddenly on your own, just you and your climbing companions. It can be easy to focus too much on the route alone, but it's the adventure as a whole that really delivers.

That being said, I happened to choose one of the hottest days of the summer to show it off to my then fiancé, Harry, alongside my dad. As we picked out our bags ready for the hike up, I was relieved that the gear was split three ways for the hot walk-in!

I have a love–hate relationship with this walk-in—so many stepping stones and lots of people—but it is beautiful at the same time and those dreaded stepping stones are a reminder of some impressive work at creating a well-maintained footpath for everyone to enjoy. The walk-in is engaging, with Stickle Ghyll running close by, and an ever-changing landscape; there are even some small moments of scrambling near the top to keep the brain switched on.

As you come over the top, the sight of Stickle Tarn and Pavey Ark is a rewarding sight. On this incredibly hot day, Harry and I decided a pre-climb swim in the tarn was a great idea to cool down after the hike in, whilst Dad relaxed by the shore.

Feeling like we had cooled down a little, we set off along the tarn to join the start of the path up to Jack's Rake. Whilst people continued up, we traversed off left to the base of the crag. At this point, it's advisable to put helmets on.

Baking at the bottom of the crag, I knew I'd regret the choice of climbing here on such a hot day—there is no shelter from the sun. We were here now, though, and in true masochistic fashion we decided to carry on!

I took the lead on Capella.

Capella, E1 5b (Route 1) at Pavey Ark  © Rockfax
Capella, E1 5b (Route 1) at Pavey Ark
© Rockfax

The start is a little poky getting through the bulge, followed by technical climbing with plenty of great gear to reward you if you persevere! It's incredibly accessible at the grade, and has some truly stunning climbing.

My dad decided that he'd had enough after seconding Capella and retreated to the base—probably the sensible idea! I carried on with Harry to send him up Golden Slipper.

It had been so long since I'd climbed this route; aside from being way too hot and with sore feet, this route really is a joy to climb. It's completely different from Capella, with incredibly grippy rock and lots of cool pebbles! Perhaps a little bolder than Capella, but still with enough gear to make sure that the fun stays 'Type 1'.

As you top out, you are rewarded by stunning views back down the Langdale valley, though getting to the top is only half the journey, as you also have to get back down to the base!

Lack of communication meant that we didn't have trainers with us to descend, and by this point we were also dehydrated, a little sun-cooked, and mildly irritable. Eventually we found our way to the top of Jack's Rake and began to descend. It's always funny seeing the bemused faces of people coming up, their eyes bulging at the excitement of scrambling up Jack's Rake, whilst you are coming down.

At the base of the gully my dad was waiting with our trainers and some water—what a hero! Feeling like we'd had enough of an adventure, we packed up, but the temptation of another swim in Stickle Tarn before we left was too much!

Those who know me will attest to the fact that I am not much of a water baby, but the reward of a hot climbing day was to enjoy a second swim in the mountains with a heart full of joy. Whilst we swam, my dad headed down to the pub for a cheeky pint and we joined him basking in the glow of a glorious day—even if it was filled with a little suffering.

I have so many fond memories of my childhood climbing on trad in the Lake District. Whilst it may have been a poor choice of venue in the heat, I still treasure it as a fantastic day with my dad, and one where I was able to show my husband, in the early days of our relationship, just how special the Lake District can be.




Emma is one of the very best climbers operating in the current British scene. She has flashed both E7 and F8a, headpointed E9 and is the first British woman to redpoint F9a.

Emma's Athlete Page 45 posts 5 videos


29 May

Strong memories of my one trip up this combo, some years back. We climbed as a three, so my buddies got one pitch of Capella each and my turn came with the first pitch of Golden Slipper - as that's fairly short and uneventful I said I was going to run it into a longer one with the second pitch too. I can still recall the glorious freedom being on that incredible grippy, pebbly face, out of sight from my partners, out of sight from anyone for that matter, far above the gear but feeling almost weightless, only wishing it could go on....

Like Emma's memory it was another summer scorcher so we also cooled off in the tarn on the way down before a celebratory pint at the NDG. A fantastic day, spent in great company :)

29 May

Great article Emma.

I remember being sandbagged into leading the long pitch on Golden Slipper way back when. I was totally gripped - protection is (or was!) marginal and the holds are just enough to keep going. So glad to reach the top!

29 May

Wonderful combo, in July 05 for me, makes me want to go back and repeat the day.

30 May

It's been on the list for about thirty years, finally did it last year. The gear isn't exactly bomber, many of the slots are quite worn, good job it's a slab!

1 Jun

Great routes, especially Golden Slipper! Nice article :)

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