There are few routes on Grit that stand quite as proud as Valkyrie. There are also few routes on Grit that offer quite as much of an adventure, because Valkyrie has it all: it goes up, down, sideways, around the corner, then up again. As a result of this it feels quite atypical of its Gritstone setting, as it requires the skills you'd ordinarily require for a multi-pitch route in the mountains, and as a result isn't for the faint-hearted - or the inexperienced. It has an exposure to match the mountains, feeling remarkably out there, and as a result of this is a truly unforgettable route.
Valkyrie was first climbed by Peter Harding, a man who left a significant legacy, but one that has perhaps been (wrongly) overshadowed by the Joe Brown/Don Whillans era, which followed shortly after. It's hard to comprehend how hard Valkyrie would feel without modern climbing equipment, let alone some of his other routes such as Promontory Traverse (E1 5b) and Demon Rib (E3 5c) - both of which are hard and rounded, with the latter being bold even by modern standards!
Elsewhere within the Peak District, he made the first ascent of Suicide Wall (HVS 5b) at Cratcliffe, which must rank as one of the best routes on Grit. Further afield, he put up routes of significance in North Wales, where he climbed, amongst others, Spectre (HVS 5a) and Brant Direct (HVS 5a), as well as writing the legendary 'Bumper Fun Guidebook' to the Llanberis Pass. Legend has it that he abseiled down Cenotaph Corner with an eye to climb it, but pronounced upon inspection that it was impossible, so settled instead for the neighbouring corner - Ivy Sepulchre (E1 5b) - as a consolation prize. How different would climbing history have been if Harding had pipped Joe Brown to the post in climbing arguably the most classic route within the British Isles?
Going back to Valkyrie, whilst it may no longer be at the cutting edge of difficulty, it's still a challenging route that requires both experience and respect - underestimate it at your peril! A great many believe it to be HVS, and whilst its grade remains VS, there's no denying it represents the upper end of the grade. Irrespective of its grade, it's a bonafide classic, and an absolute beauty of a climb - one which you're unlikely to ever forget.
Add it to your wishlist: Valkyrie (VS 4c) Roaches Lower Tier
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The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
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Comments
I hope this article leads to a discussion about retreating by jumping off the belay ledge....:)
Not guilty, squire.
One of my first VS leads. Ended up leading both pitches as my climbing partner fell off leading the second pitch, and retreated back to the belay. Great climb.
Well that was a wonderful video, well done!! I hope to see more like this in the future!
I remember doing this with a mate after a good day at the Roaches (maybe my first?). It was getting dark, so we decided he'd lead it in one pitch as the grade should be comfortable - a tremendously bad idea if anyone was wondering. He had horrendous rope drag, and then because of that drag I basically soloed pitches 1 and 2 (up and left) and was only back on for the last stretch up to the top of the pillar. Smashing day out!