UKC

Hi Folks,

Heading off to Cham this weekend for a week of playing, walking drinking and maybe even some climbing.

Taking the good lady as well so looking for some nice multi-pitch routes that are suitable to take a second up that can follow upto HVS.

Goes without saying we're probably going for a wee wonder up the Cosmique if its looking good.

Ideally looking for trad suggestions but I'm sure we can manage a wee bit of sport as well.

Also if anyone's aware of any funky events happening t'would be grand to get a tip off.

Thanks in advance!!

Iain

The MBC - Micro Brasserie Chamonix does pretty good beers and food. 

There's a round of the world cup (climbing) there 11-13th July if you're still there? 

Lots of good climbs. I've only done bolted multi pitch there but thought they were all pretty good - check my log book from July 2016 for details. 

Thanks for that Fiona, think we might catch a little of the climbing comp before we fly back.

Last time I was out I got Fraise des Boaches (Sp?) done up in the Aiguille Rouge, was just wondering if there were a couple of specific crackers that folks would recommend, save me reading through the ENTIRE Rockfax, not that it wouldn't be fun, it would just start to make me feel a bit inadequate...

Anyone else got any good suggestions?

Southeast Ridge (AD 4c) - about VS, fantastic summit and 15 mins walk from the lift, makes for a great half day. 

Alternatively, on the same bit of rock there's Brunat-Perroux (D+ 5c) - technically harder, but with a smattering of bolts too. 

Clocher cochertons traverse (AD 5a) is fantastic, if a little short. Cocher Cochon (TD- 6a) is harder but fully bolted and also superb and finishes on the summit that the traverse starts.

If you/her are properly acclimatised and up for it, Rébuffat-Baquet (TD+ 6a) is the big classic on the SF of the Midi. Arête des Papillons (AD-) is the classic of the Plan. 

And I know you said you'd prefer trad to sport, but "Les Chesereys" slabs just above Argentiere has some great ~150-200m multipitch sport routes with lovely views and no lift required. Also lots of curious Ibex!

Ideal,

Thanks for those suggestions, all and any other gems like that are welcome, can’t beat a bit of local knowledge...

For any of the above ( except getting pissed in the valley ), check with the guides office. Plenty of hikers get unstuck by underestimating the conditions, and even the route between the Plan and Montenvers has the odd snowpatch. The Aiguilles Rouges also has quite a lot of snow for the time of year. See https://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/mountain-conditions# for up to date conditions. The staff of the OHM are incredibly helpful. 

Very true - fwiw all the routes I mentioned (minus the ones on the Plan or Midi, lift was closed) were accessible with approach shoes when I was in Cham a few weeks ago prior to the heatwave, although some care was required on the Index descent gully. 

Can't remember what they're called and not done them but have been told the routes as you walk from Le Buet up to Ete Indian on Mont Oreb (great but maybe above your HVS) are very good at approx f5b

I think Beer o'clock might be my new favourite. More beers and better location. No proper meals though. 

I think Beer o'clock might be my new favourite. More beers and better location. No proper meals though. MBC has had the same beers for years, which seems a bit dull for a microbrewery. 

Will have to check out Beer O' Clock next time I'm in Chamonix, sounds good

The MBC stout and blanche are very good thus I don't mind the lack of variety especially given it's usually many years between my trips to Chamonix. 

Some sports suggestions in the Aiguilles Rouges;

Frison Roche 6a

Crakoukass followed by Somone 5c

Brunat Perroux  6a

Mani Pulite 5b

Nez Rouge 5b

Voie des Dalles 5c

Asia 6a

Arete Rouge 5c other adjacent routes fun too

Lady in Black 6a

Voie Gaspard 5c

Voie Ravanel 5c