/ Swannage VS recomendations

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
dunnyg - on 17 Apr 2019

Off to Swannage at the weekend and looking for some fun stuff to do up to about VS, any recommendations? Have the latest rockfax offering on the guidebook front.

Report
petegunn on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Avernus (S 4a) is quite unique. 

Also don't be put off from trying Finale Groove (HVS 4c) if going well,  as it's a VS in an HVS setting and we'll protected.

Report
mullermn - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Another vote for avernus. Don’t be put off by the lower grade, it’s a really nice adventure climb. 

Report
Mehmet Karatay - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

I really enjoyed Isis (VS 4c) when I was there a few weeks ago. Isis gives well-protected 3D climbing in an improbable situation for VS. I found it was the climb I think back to the most from the trip. Be aware that the Rockfax description was wrong at one point so check that your guidebook has the corrected topo in it. https://www.rockfax.com/news/2014/04/22/isis-swanage-important-topo-correction/

I also enjoyed Freda (VS 5a), which gives a lovely face climb on good holds. 

If this is your first trip to Swanage, I'd recommend starting at Subluminal, which will give you a feel for the area and the rock. Be wary about gear placements behind loose blocks, check for fracture lines around the block as well as hollowness when tapped. Also, drop your grade a bit until you get used to how things are going.

Have a great trip,
Mehmet

Post edited at 10:49
Report
dunnyg - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to Mehmet Karatay:

Finale groove looks quality! The others look good too. Cheers! Any more recommendations welcome! 

Post edited at 11:30
Report
SGD - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Benny (A1)

its VS - but not as you know it. Absolutely brilliant route, but then I have never done anything like it before or since

Report
GrahamD - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

I'd say mistaken identity is my favourite Swanage VS.  Loads of other good VS from the same abseil.  Tensor II is tough for VS.

Report
Graeme Hammond - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Be aware that the once classic VSTatra (pre 2014 rockfall) (VS 5a) has had a rockfall and is now considered E1 Tatra (reclimbed after 2014 rockfall) (E1)

Report
scott titt - on 17 Apr 2019
GHawksworth on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Spreadeagle (VS 5a)

good and well protected but a little tough if VS is your physical limit, great ramp up to HVS climbs if not.

Report
Pero - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to dunnyg:

Regarding Finale Groove.  There's no way you should be abbing down to the Marmolata area unless you are comfortable leading HVS.  There is nothing easy out of there.  If you can't lead 5a you could be stuck down there.

Finale Groove is not a VS, it's full-on HVS for those of us operating at that grade.  Just look at the voting on UKC.  And it's 35m. 

Report
alan moore - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to Pero:

I remember thinking Finale Groove was quite a tough HVS. I finished up yarding on a sling to get up the bulging lower corner and found it very sustained all the way to the top.

Report
Mick Ward - on 17 Apr 2019
In reply to Pero:

> Regarding Finale Groove.  There's no way you should be abbing down to the Marmolata area unless you are comfortable leading HVS.  There is nothing easy out of there.  If you can't lead 5a you could be stuck down there.

> Finale Groove is not a VS, it's full-on HVS for those of us operating at that grade.  Just look at the voting on UKC.  And it's 35m. 


Thank you for a much needed dose of sanity. I've lost count of the number of people with whom I've abbed into the Ruckle for their first time. And then they promptly shat themselves. For such a relatively small crag, it sure feels big.

Re Finale Groove, there was a lovely article about this route, in a climbing mag, about 25 years ago. He'd led E7; she was the first British lady to climb E6. (These were big grades back then!)  A lowly HVS. What could possibly go wrong?  Answer: a lot!

[To the OP] I'd strongly suggest you go to Subluminal and start on Severes. Don't expect them to be easy; they're not. (Second Corner's brilliant.) If all goes OK on day one, then have a look at Scott's list for day two. He knows the place better than anyone ever will.

Mick

Report
petegunn on 20:48 Thu
In reply to Pero:

I always carry prusiks for this reason.

Report
Wilderbeest - on 22:06 Thu
In reply to dunnyg:

Hi 

i’d go to Guillemot and do Mistaken identity, Batt crack and Tensor 11

And of course a pie and pint at the S&Q afterwards.  I’d pre place a rope to belay from when you get to the top of Mistaken Identity which is a faff but worth it. Nice straightforward and well protected.

Then do Quality Street the next day. I’m sure it only gets HVS because of the walk-in and abseil

Post edited at 22:06
Report
Tom Last - on 22:21 Thu
In reply to dunnyg:

Freda and Avernus. Mega! 

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.