Monday: Campus foot on ladders to benchmark fitness. Obviously can’t compare numbers to previous lattice test but the shape of the curve is the same. Anaerobic function is slightly lower (was 34% on lattice) which fits the training I’ve done (strength and aerocap, minimal ancap).
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10Fgdy6W_aN6lQ4Q9Vqc8tqcTpnIrIs10HZ7...
Also did 3x8mins on/8off on easy boulders
5 mile Z3 run
Tuesday: 3.5 mile recovery run, 30 mins stretching session
Wednesday: 4 mile Z3 run
Thursday: 30 mins stretching
Friday: Max hangs- no progression this week. 4x4 boulder problems (1:2 rest ratio, around v3), 3x8 mins on 8 off Aerocap.
Saturday: Blacknor South, mistake as it was about 100c in the blazing sun. OS’d I love the smell of resin in the morning (6c) which I was happy about, and then dogged my way up Sacred Angel (7a). It was too hot really so went down to the sea for about 3 hours, before going over to The Cuttings which was much cooler, though it was late. OS Another Notch in the Gun which I thought was an excellent route.
Sunday: Went to the Cuttings, which of course was also blazing hot in the morning. Spent a bunch of time working on Finesse 7a. I have a sequence worked out which has one stiff move I can do 50% of the time. I just saw a video of someone doing it using a hold I didn’t see at all there, so maybe there is an easier way.
So I've reached the end of the training block- this week is full recovery before flying to Canada on Friday. When we are there, it’s just a case of tackling whatever we are in the mood for, be it alpine, trad or sport.
Reflecting on this block of training, a few things stand out:
* Strength gains went well- consistent finger board max hangs were a big win, however because I did this all at The Castle (which can be very busy) it took quite a lot out of my time available for other more specific climbing training, and impacted training after the hangs a lot (there isn't really enough time the evening to take a decent rest)
* Getting a couple of hundred pitches outside in (mainly at Portland) has been great for my technique and developing an understanding of what I need to train. However 3 days outside plus 1 travelling a week didn't leave much space/energy for actual training. It's a good problem to have but something to be aware of next phase.
* Keeping good quantitive training data and visualising it really helped motivation and progress.
* The one coaching session I had was super useful, and I feel the technique drills have helped a lot in understanding efficient movement. Engaging with a coach more frequently definitely seems like a good idea
* I didn't make any change to body composition during the phase at all. I didn't really try to take any serious action on this, but it was something I wanted to achieve- go figure. That said nutrition was not at all an issue in terms of energy levels during training/recovery etc.
* Small goals like grade boundaries and specific routes to try helped me to push myself during trips and to some extent in training. Vague goals like 'get as strong as possible for Canada' were not helpful.
* I have actually made progress with flexibility in the hamstrings, hip flexors and shoulders! Today I reached the benchmark of heels on the floor in downward dog. It has taken some focus and consistency to make a pretty small gain, but it’s a promising start. I only really got down to this in the last few weeks, so I’ll continue with it in Canada and see how it goes.
Looking forward to the next phase, but it’s ciao for now! I’ll more than likely be updating instagram if anyone is interested in what Jen and I are up to
https://www.instagram.com/guy127917