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INTERVIEW: Morus Sanderson climbs Indian Face, E9 6c

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 UKC News 17 Aug 2023

Morus Sanderson has made the ninth ascent of Johnny Dawes' Indian Face, E9 6c, at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Wales.

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1
 ebdon 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! Im conflicted weather to be impressed or horrified by that account of Indian face. f5 to E9 in a few years, mind-blowing. Clearly reports of the death of trad has been greatly exaggerated.

 UKB Shark 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Good grief! Felt like E7 just reading that

 Tyler 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Well that was pretty jaw dropping!

 JLS 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Yikes!

 SuperstarDJ 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort!

He's gone through the grades very quickly - first outdoor route in 2020 to E9 in 2023!

 jezb1 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

George to do it soon, first family members to do Indian Face!

 PaulJepson 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

> Despite doing some climbing inside, I didn't properly start climbing until the first lockdown when me and my friend went to check out a boulder he'd 'discovered'. We returned with my sister's gymnastic mat and two sessions later I topped out of The Ramp (f5+) at  Braichmelyn Boulder. My first 5+! I continued building up through the grades steadily, and eventually started trad climbing in December 2021 after some encouragement from my boss Alex Mason. 

Mental. 

 mike lawrence? 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Credit to the belayers, must have been a bit of a tense watch!

In reply to UKC News:

Wow! Sweaty palms reading this!

 rachelpearce01 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Morus is a very unique and talented person, but not just in climbing.  Despite how it sounds, in my eyes he cruised it and it looked like someone walking up an e3. 

5
 PaulJepson 17 Aug 2023
In reply to rachelpearce01:

You haven't seen me on an E3. 

In reply to UKC News:

Outrageously impressive. Honnold-esque levels of nonchalance toward what most of us consider unacceptable levels of danger.

1
 Sean Kelly 17 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Because part of the route was wet, is he entitled to change the name of the climb? I suggest 'Death Wish'!

4
In reply to PaulJepson:

Launching out onto something this serious, in sub-optimal conditions, smacks of the folly of youth - something than many, if not most of us, were guilty of when we were young.

Post edited at 17:45
2
 George_Surf 17 Aug 2023
In reply to jezb1:

You’re alright! Maybe one day I’ll have a look at it but to be honest I was happy enough watching…. It was actually oddly relaxing up there, that was until morus got to the ledge and I could see the huge section he’s spent 10 minutes towelling off had now seeped all the way back down. I wasn’t sure whether to say anything; would it put him off? Was it reckless of me to not say anything? Hard choice but in the end I let him get on with it. Morus knew what he was letting himself in for and the whole thing went smooth although the wet bit towards the top was not quite so relaxing to watch; a fall there is pretty unthinkable. Also, morus only placed 1 wire after that and the massive long top groove was a waterfall so when he was pulling over the grass on to the Great Wall ledge he was deffo back in ground fall territory… then we had a nice wander down the train line in the dark. Probs slagged a few people off along the way and morus also tried to convince rach to not go back to look at it herself. A pleasent 5hrs out from our 15hr a day 7 days a week work schedule…

 Moza 17 Aug 2023
In reply to George_Surf: Yeah summed it up well thanks george. The bottom part went smoothly as expected (smooth enough i regret not placing the gear) and i knew it would be somewhat wet at the top (though perhaps not that bad) , if i hadn’t tried it before in the wet i reallt doubt i would’ve gone for it. I’m bold not stupid. So it certainly wasn’t kamikaze like some people think it is, just a little wetness to test my reserve.

1
 Michael Gordon 17 Aug 2023
In reply to Moza:

> just a little wetness to test my reserve.

And what better place to test it...

 Moza 17 Aug 2023
In reply to Michael Gordon:

👯‍♀️

3
 Misha 17 Aug 2023
In reply to Moza:

The saying about old and bold climbers comes to mind. Take care. 

 FactorXXX 17 Aug 2023
In reply to Misha:

> The saying about old and bold climbers comes to mind. Take care. 

Except that fortunately that doesn't actually seem to be true.

13
 Misha 17 Aug 2023
In reply to FactorXXX:

Probably because bold climbers get less bold as they get older. 

In reply to FactorXXX:

> Except that fortunately that doesn't actually seem to be true.

Based on the climbing acquaintances and friends I have known, I would say there is a quite a lot of truth in this saying.

 Ed morris 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Crumbs, that's more scary than Gresham's account of his lead...

4
 Southvillain 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Despite doing some climbing inside, I didn't properly start climbing until the first lockdown when me and my friend went to check out a boulder he'd 'discovered'.

Damn these young people, their never-ending strength, and their astonishing progress! Enjoy it whilst is lasts. Seriously, what a fantastic achievement. He's joined that club, the entry price for which is beyond 99.9% of us, of whose members I am in awe.

Post edited at 09:16
 Moza 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Ed morris:

It wasn’t as bad trust me. It wasn’t too bad until the ledge and after i got stood up to the wet part i just had to keep my shit together for a few moments until the jug. I’d practised it earlier in the wet and i knew an alternative beta using more positive edges if it was wet and it’s slabby so i was able to dry the feet. Gresh had ptsd too, i definitely didn’t.

 Dom Whillans 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Arddechog. +Top spot of climbing that, nice one youth!

 ro8x 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive ascent and really interesting background on how he came to be leading Indian face, it is quite the progression from 5+.

 ebdon 18 Aug 2023
In reply to ro8x:

I think what's really mind boggling about this  is that Indian face is a climb that many top climbers have had a hard time on, I think Dave MacLeod walked away when he first tried it, Gresham had a pretty harrowing time, I don't even think Nick Dixons ascent whent smoothly. So to climb it in such bad conditions in what sounds like a really good style is pretty out there.

Post edited at 11:07
 ali k 18 Aug 2023
In reply to ebdon:

> I think Dave MacLeod walked away when he first tried it,

To be fair to him I think he was trying the wrong line initially (a non-route).

In reply to UKC News:

Wow - what an impressive and harrowing read in equal measures - If I was there, I don't think I could have watched - unbelievably impressive 

 Darkinbad 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

An impressive achievement on several counts. The fact that it was by a climber who wasn't even born at the time of the first ascent, yet is only the ninth, also speaks to how impressive that first ascent was.

On a side note, I would be interested to know if there have been any repeats of West Indian Face. I have a slight personal interest in that my rope was used on the first ascent of this route, towed up by Mr Dawes while I watched admiringly from below (Johnny was rumoured to own only a large bunch of RPs, borrowing the rest of his gear from belay bunnies, partners and, in my case, complete bystanders). His ascent particularly impressed me because it seemed to be made very much on the spur of the moment, after he had made an abseil inspection of the cleaning (and painting) work carried out by John Redhead, yet he climbed it without hesitation and with perfect calm (apart from the odd imprecation directed at the aforesaid painter).

 Robert Durran 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Darkinbad:

> Johnny was rumoured to own only a large bunch of RPs, borrowing the rest of his gear from belay bunnies, partners and, in my case, complete bystanders).

Guidebooks too it seems. I was once descending under Suicide Wall at Idwal when Dawes, from a ridiculously run out position onZero (E7 6b), calmly enquired whether we had a guidebook and could tell him which way to go. We were able to consult it and tell him to go up and left or whatever. He thanked us and calmly finished the pitch.

 Ed morris 18 Aug 2023
In reply to Moza:

I'm glad you enjoyed the experience, it looks like a beautiful line. 

 planetmarshall 18 Aug 2023
In reply to UKC News:

Always know where your towel is.


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