UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 845 is on its way.  Been a bit caught up in BH stuff....

In reply to Derek Furze:

Going to sneak in early, as I'm off early tomorrow to go on holiday.

M - 2m run

T - 1m run

W - T - Rest

F - 3m run

S - Rest

S - 1m run

Monday was tagging along with my son's junior fell running club.  Pretty weird really, as you mix up gentle strolling with light jogging and the odd bit of fast running to catch up with the kids when they hoon off.  The two 1m runs are just standard jogs up the road around the corner.  The 3m run was part of my 6m hill run, I just didn't have the energy to do the full loop, so pushed to do something, even tho I was exhausted.  Energy has been hard to find this week.  But having said that, it's been a great week for miles bearing in mind I've done so little the past two weeks.  As I mentioned last week, the ultra is off.  I'm going to see if I can arrange a nice long run next month to make up for the loss of that.  I guess I'll have to look and see if I can book something towards the end of the year or early next year maybe.  There's some interesting races next year and I'd like to get the Ridgeway race that I DNFed on a few years back done.

In reply to Derek Furze:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_844-7599...

Sorry for late posting.  Usual BH family stuff.

I'm away in Spain Thursday to Thursday and might struggle as I don't fancy typing on my phone.  I will see what I can do by way of prep before I go, but might need help for this week if anyone wants to volunteer - I could shunt through what I have done ahead.  Happy to pick it up on return.

Tyler:  Tuesday after school club led to more unfinished business, but I think I saw that you had put this to bed on a subsequent visit.  Sorry if that steals any thunder from your weekly bulletin! 

I'm very keen for Gogarth generally, though mainly tend to head there midweek, which probably doesn't work for you?  Regardless, let me know if you want to set foot on the routes there as I love the place and still have plenty to explore.

It sounds like the foray onto Pearl Necklace has established this as 'sandbag' territory and we even had people jumping on the thread in support of the 7b rating.  I'd note that you spend a lot of time at Llanddulas, despite being very clear that it was not worth a visit!  Only one way to find out, so I shall arrange a visit to form my own opinion.

No comment on the diet.  There have been some quite successful weight shedding episodes recently (Biscuit, Liam) so some people you could check for guidance on approach perhaps.  Re FFE, I've done it a few times, but was a bit underwhelmed this time - good, but not that good.  Mind you, this may be grit aversion at play.

Alan:  Interesting approach to using the wall to mimic the challenges of your projects - all a bit Will Bosi isn't it?  I think your point about the holds just being too good is bang on.  Oddly enough, climbed with an old mate this week and we were both in agreement that walls don't help us much with proper climbing - none of the subtlety of real rock.

Entertained by reports of your shopping trip.  I might consider adding these as a filler when I have a light week!

Good to see that you actually got to Konstein and tried to find a project.  A shame that you didn't get on your actual target, but it will happen. 

I think the Sunday performance is neither here nor there.  We take a day when everything falls into place and immediately adjust our expectations.  Then, along comes a high gravity day (not recovered from a previous effort or whatever) and we beat ourselves up!  The age thing is probably significant, though I am reluctant to accept it really.  Adjusting the training is probably sensible - Biscuit did a one minute video on his insta on this.  For reference, I had a day on Pavey on Wednesday, two days after a good session on sport.  I haven't walked up a hill this year and it was hot.  The warm up was boiling and five pitches long.  We toned down our ambitions.  Sore legs have just stopped today.

SSB:  Impressed with the run up Bleaklow.  I think this is something you have included a few times recently - an off-piste run with a couple of scrambles thrown in - good stuff. 

A good week for you overall as you got bac to Chee Tor and managed the 7c.  As discussed at Cratcliffe, you probably won't get back there now as Pete has presumably completed the 8a(?).  Anyway, plenty else to get on and a good effort doing Shake Hands with the Octopus so quickly.  A good week generally for you, with a lot of variety and plenty of climbing throughout.  Five days where you did something on rock is a pretty stellar week by my reckoning, especially as car maintenance was also on the agenda. 

Surprised to hear that Bell Hagg was dirty at all - it used to be really clean and at one point we used it a fair bit.  It would be interesting to see how dirty Wyoming Brook will be!  How times change.

Steve Claw:   Sounds like a brilliant week – quite a way to go even from Bristol as it isn’t exactly on the doorstep.  Dream / Liberator has had a reputation for ever – it is amazing that it hasn’t had an upgrade really.  If you are reporting it as noticeably difficult and ‘only just stayed on at the crux’, then that says it all.

Once again, a week where you managed to climb outside on five days!  Very impressive to be getting so much done and hopefully it is strengthening your connective tissue rather than aggravating your injury.  I guess things like Pacemaker would be quite a test (though clearly Ian found it a romp – see FC 842).  To be fair, he did comment that he had climbed there a lot and I get the impression that you get used to the style quite quickly.

In amongst these classics, it almost passes by without notice that you managed yet more new stuff.  Keep them coming as it looks like you are revitalising the area single-handedly!

Ross Barker:  Yes, i noticed that yours was the only logged ascents and thought they might be new, but thanks for clearing that up.  Anyway, early repeats are impressive enough.

More good work at the Dugout.  You can probably climb there blindfold by now!  Clearly has its attractions despite your comments on a previous thread.  Great to see that the light hangs work is continuing, particularly as you had a bit of a grumble on the A2 injury this week.  Interesting visit to Wales at the back end of the week, which did include new stuff, so great results.  Sounds like you have a project to work on as well.  The bouldering there appears to be so esoteric that it doesn’t appear on UKC, so I haven’t been able to see the things you did.

I see that you have put PE on the list, so I will be interested to see how you work this over the next few weeks.  I assume this is with DWS in mind as I guess you will be doing some through the summer ahead of the planned meet up?

The Sheep:  That explains why I haven’t seen your wife appearing on the training runs at least.  Hope that she recovers smoothly and will soon be back on the trail.  It sounds like I need to wish you a speedy recovery as well now!

Tues – Thurs went well, before you succumbed to the lurgy.  Some decent swimming and running completed, though I haven’t seen a return visit to the weights.  Perhaps overdoing it on t=your first visit has put you off?  Anyway, I’m not sure going to the gym qualifies if it simply includes the steam room!

Hope you get back on things soon, though it can be demotivating when some kind of illness strikes.

Ally:  Agreed, doing pull ups on the jugs as part of a session that includes fingerboarding doesn’t really impact the results.  If anything, the only bit of common work across the exercises is biceps and shoulders contracting, which are not usually a failure point during finger board work like max hangs or even your Yves liffts I guess.

I can’t believe that ‘weak core’ is a realistic description, though it may be relatively weak for the roof project.  Probably no better way of training it than getting beaten up trying it!  It sounds like the oblique is continuing to give you problems, so good to see some focused rehab with the kettlebell.  Luckily, you seem to be quite keen on working with weights generally.

Those edge lifts are really heavy once you get your warm up out of the way.  I’m intrigued really as lifting off the floor doesn’t replicate climbing holds very well, though I appreciate that it isolates the fingers effectively. 

Biscuit:  Good strategy with the grip training.  Experience tells me this is a familiarisation thing – grit can feel impossible when you haven’t been on it for a while, but soon starts to feel comfortable as the holds become familiar again.  Quite likely you just need to practice a bit with open-handed grips and the confidence will come.  Possibly worth noting the ‘a bit’ point, as you had two fairly intense sessions over two days!  Anyway, it seems to be delivering if your hands wouldn’t work and it didn’t impact your actual climbing negatively at the weekend.

I think your report implies a weekend trip to Gower, which is an impressive distance to go for a weekend.  I did a weekend in Pembroke when I was young, including getting on routes Friday night on arrival, but not sure I’d cope with that sort of distance these days.  Hats off for making a big effort.  I don’t know the Gower crags you were on, though I have been there a few times – mainly family trips – so it reminds me to keep it on the list.

Interesting reflections on decisions and speed.  You really are thinking hard about these things.  It is quite hard to pick up where you are at with this as the ultimate aim is probably good decisions.  Things only need changing if you feel that you are taking to long to make your decision perhaps (i.e. the extra time isn’t really productive in some way – more rest, better gear or whatever)?

Ian Parnell:  Good to see that you are getting a fair bit done with the nice weather.  Actual climbing is always the best thing to do and is probably going to give you more than monster training weeks really, unless you are operating at elite levels.  Not long left to hit your STG, but the weather looks like it will keep it together right through to the end of May and beyond.

You still managed to fir three ‘training’ sessions in anyway, including bouldering, running and the campus board work, so it doesn’t look like you have neglected much really.  Inevitably when you are getting out for the evening, something has to give and it is normal to wind things back a bit.  Aim for maintenance sessions to reduce the sense of regression, or put effort into a different grip where you know you will initially be weaker.  I am doing weighted pull ups at a lighter level than a month ago, but trying to increase reps instead.

Excellent to get on some classic Peak trad and to begin the annual Chee Tor clean up.  It is usual around now for someone to start a thread about what has been cleaned up, so good to get Hergiani in shape.  Sergeyenna always feels tricky at E1 to me.

Randy:  I think you hit 50KG some time over the winter, so getting to 60kg would be very impressive even for one rep.  Your comment includes some useful thoughts on the pathway to improved strength and the diligent approach you adopt – good stuff.  Also useful to note that the previous level comes back quite quickly when you get back to an old routine.

A fairly intense week with gym or wall work every day apart from Wednesday – not bad if you consider this ‘demotivated’!  That said, I know what you mean, sometimes sessions can feel not much fun and it is difficult to deliver performance.  Good to see that you enjoyed the running and put some good times into this – certainly a pace I can only dream of achieving!  Interesting reflections on project goals and quite a change of direction with the Alpine stuff in the frame.  Reading some of the reports form all of you in Germany, it seems like an endless cycle of wall visits with most of you doing three sessions a week – incredibly intense for what are essentially fairly repetitive venues.  I certainly would find it really hard to keep going without having outside stuff to break it all up and make it seem worthwhile somehow, but we are all different.

The Alps – now there is something to fire the soul!

In reply to Derek Furze:

AJM:  Good to see you on the rock and ropes again!  You did announce a few weeks ago that plans included several trips away and you have delivered.  Shorncliff is a good (and yes, friendly) destination with a lot of decent stuff to do and the Laughing Cavaliers bit is very good.  I had a spell where every visit included a fall caused by loose rock, usually completely unexpected and sometimes quite serious, so it isn’t completely without an unfriendly aspect. 

Good to work on the shoulder rehab.  Probably worth a measured approach to gradually build confidence and strength with the previous injury. And four sessions during the week is definitely applying yourself diligently to this.

I think you are away again (Peak / Wales) so the regular session should be getting results.  I look forward to the reports of a mauling at Ramshaw!

Liam P:  You may have had a deload week, but I think most of mine feel like that at the moment.  I actually should have plenty of time, but keep undertaking strenuous DIY projects and some marathon drives to crags so often don’t feel like training afterwards!

Good antags work.  I’m with you a bit on Hooper’s stuff, but I include it for warm ups really.  Most of what I do that is sources from those video’s does fell like antag and maintenance work, though I confess to avoiding exercises that I can’t fit easily into my routine.

Interesting reflections on the campus board and impressive to be targeting 1-4-7 anyway.  Not the first bit of filming taking place in FC this Spring, so you and Alan starting a new trend.  Perhaps we will have a week where we all share a video instead of a post!  The OAPU making progress again and stepping up the sets will be really hard – don’t forget it is a 100% increase if all the sets go to two – possibly just do a couple?

Climbthatpitch:  Thanks for filling in a bit more background.  Useful reflections on structure and where you might see gains, particularly with including some sport climbing on plan.  Certainly, it is the place to push technique and difficulty.

It is very hard to keep any sort of structure going with out a bit of a plan and a reasonable way of recording things.  I run a spreadsheet, because otherwise I would forget, though I am conscious now that it is screaming ‘do more’ at me as I write!  Some form of log is probably critical to tracking progress, which is itself inspiring.  I had a month or two earlier this year when I was delivering new PBs almost weekly and it sort of makes up for not doing so much recently.  Anyway, you are hitting your STG.

Never been to The Cuttings – it always felt like the only bit of Portland not worth driving a long way to visit!  Good effort at Symonds Yat on a route that my friend is always recommending.  Good to see the sprot in the mix this week as well – again, I’ve not been to Gilwern, but supposed to be a lot down there to do.

Inglesp:  Great to see a decent result on the run event – sustaining 5 min kms for 10 km is decent really and shows a good return from the training effort.  I have got back to running a little bit recently and my running partner and I have resolved to include some pace training alongside our normal zone 2 plodding.  We will do some fartlek intervals amongst one of our weekly runs.

Interesting deciding to join pull up club to address a weakness that you have identified.  Given your first effort was a respectable 8/7/5 it doesn’t look like you are weak here – there are plenty of FC who would rarely do many more than 7 in a set, yet manage to climb hard grades, so it isn’t a fundamental barrier for most climbers.  That said, I think the stability point is useful and it definitely helps with that.  Sets of ten are a good target and a platform for weighted stuff.

Lots of logbook comments about poor gear on White Hart (I looked as I haven’t done it) so well done for going back on twice having taken a fall.

Small Step:  Yes, I really should stop mentioning partying as I will lose my authority in this role!  I think I only noted it last week as I had considered not going out because I felt ropey, but the event seemed to improve things once it got going.  Maybe a psychological thing?

No worries about late posting and I usually add a reminder if people have forgotten.  Obviously, I have to be sensitive to the through that people may drop off for good reason, but one or two reminders is probably ok.

As commented above to Randy, lots more wall work from the German gang and it looks like you tried hard despite the setbacks from partners cancelling.  Plenty of other exercise across your week as well, including the walk in the sun.  Most interesting is the plan to get out on rock after a year off!  It will no doubt feel fairly odd and probably nothing like the wall!  I hope it goes well.

Mattrm:  Yes, it began to look like your carefully constructed training plan was falling apart with illness, so no great surprise that you decided to pull out.  I think you hadn’t hit the pace for your first marker last time I looked, so it would have needed some ridiculous intensity to get close at a time when tapering should have been the plan.  As Ian remarks, there are other events so nothing to stop you getting back on the wagon with the groundwork. 

No shame attached of course!  These are all goals we set ourselves and the rest of us are just providing support really.  I quite like having the running stuff on several reports as it helps get me out on the trails a bit – something I really need to sustain.  Good to see your eager response to my late posting!

SteveJC94 and Tom Green get an honourable mention for battling away in some far-flung islands out of reach to any usual signals.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Yep the oracle of Welsh climbing I was with yesterday also confirmed it at hard 7b.

This last visit wasn’t my choice (although do now have to go back!) but I’d say the wall right of the main cave has brilliant routes if they are your grade but the rest of the crag is average quarried limestone.

Inevitably went backwards again, decided to treat myself to an ice cream after climbing on Saturday - ate two, no regrets!

Very good week almost a great week.

M: Knackered after yesterday and with sore skin so was pleasantly surprised to clear Cornhollio (7b) off the unfinished business list. Didn’t try anything else in an attempt to recover skin.

W: Was on belay duty as Joe is close to getting Mussel Beach. Managed one RP go on Mean Mother where I was annoyed to drop it. Should go next visit if the nerves don’t get me. 
F: Put in request to go down to 4 days a week at work, should get decision in a month or two…

S: Carreg y Foel Gron Astonishingly Martin had never visited so that was a bonus. We did Myrddin Emrys (E1 5b) and Pocedi Perffaith (E1 5b), which were both brilliant, potential three star, routes. Martin then lead Crad's Wall (E3 6a) which is a definite three star route.  I lead it on Martin’s gear which I was pleased about but the grade is definitely for hanging around and placing the gear so didn’t have too much of a trad experience. A great day despite/enhanced by the Cornetto gluttony. The photo is of someone doing the E5/6 arete left of Crad’s wall. 
S: Had planned some lazy bouldering as I needed a short day but Martin fixed me up with a climbing Dynamo so ended up at  Craig Yr Wrysgan at an unusually early (for me) time to belay some rarely climbed routes. I followed the rarely dry Gremlin Groove (E1 5b) which was inevitably a bit dirty but brilliant (gets E2 in the new guide which it probably deserves). Buoyed along by Dave’s enthusiasm I lead Wall of Ghouls (E3 6a) on his gear, I definitely felt like I had a proper trad experience on this as some of the grade was for boldness as well as the physical start. Another fantastic underrated route that Dave thought might be E4. I then seconded Louis Wilder (E5 6a) which is a four star classic, honestly the rock in the Moelwyns is just out of this world, get on it!

In reply to Tyler:

No finer recommendation, especially as some of those routes are no star on UKC.  Good week Tyler!

In reply to Tyler:

That sounds like a great week! The ice cream is well deserved!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek for your diligent stats work. Re: STG I've fully achieved none of them But feel like I've given all of them, apart from number of sport routes, a close run - so I'm reasonably satisfied. Aiming to do that many sport routes and trad routes was unrealistic and I needed to concentrate on one or the other or give up my job and sell the family (umm...?).

STG - E4 end of May (0/1). 20 6th grade boulder problems (16/20). 50 sport routes by end of May (15/50). 30 trad routes by end of May (25/30)

MTG: Pabbay Trip – onsight E5

Mon – Chee Tor, 4 good routes – such a great crag. Seconded Less Than Zero (E3 5c), led Rave On (E3 5c) (took 2 goes), seconded Rape (E2 5b), led Sunny Goodge Street (E2 5c).

Tues – rest

Wed – Foot on campus board aiming for 65 secs on and 60 secs rest between reps. Managed 65secs, 65, 65, 55, 55, 61, 55 (Total 421 secs on and 360 secs rest, previously 411 secs on and 360 rest)

Thurs, Fri, Sat – rest

Sun – High Tor, Lyme Cryme Donkeys (E4 5c) with The Phrantic Phinish (E4 5c) finish (E4), I led pitch 2. More fall practice! one on each pitch. Lyme Cryme, even seconding, felt like a tough warm up and that crux hadn’t got any easier! Actually felt better on lead on pitch 2 and only fell off on traverse as went wrong way. Phrantic was new to me and mental faff slipped in again, fiddling with a wire when I should have done the move first and sorted gear after. Still phenomenal combination of pitches – felt solid E4 to me. Finished seconding the very classy Perseus (E3 5c).  

Reflection - Planned to do a little more this week but work was relentlessly exhausting. I’d love to be able to report that with a week to go to Pabbay, everything is clicking into place. But the reality is I’m not quite as fit as I wanted to be, my head is still regularly slipping into negativity and whilst I’m beginning to get some flow, I’ve still some way to go. It is what it is and I’m definitely fitter than I was at the beginning of the year, in fact fitter than I have been for a few years. Also I’m injury/niggle free, yeah! To get up my dream E5 I’ll need to get dragged up by a passing sea eagle but there are some amazing sounding E4s that I’m hoping to throw myself at, which would still be a big step forward, so I’m still psyched out of my tiny mind.

In reply to Tyler:

There ought to be a UKC logbook entry for "deserved ice cream". Craig yr Wrysgan has been high on my list - with Green Wall and Nosferatu but sounds like there's loads more hidden gems - its now in my top 3 mid summer planned destinations.

In reply to Derek Furze:

The 50kg was a 2 rep max, which translate to about 55-57 for are one rep max. I also was more in a base phase in the winter and have now focused on max strength. So i think 60kg is possible, but will be very tough.

Never underestimate german discipline

Yeah, this will be interesting. Fingers crossed that i get some decent weather in the second half of june

Recap last week:

Mon: 30 minutes steady run, about 4.50 / km pace, legs were still feeling heavy as expected

Tues: Indoor Climbing, Elements Wall; flashed 7 boulders in the 6a+ to 6c range, did another 6c 3rd Go; tried a 6c/6c+ comp boulder, got close on the dyno but could not stick it, projected a 6c+ roof boulder, but could not do the crux move, did a 6c roof boulder after a couple of tries, 15 minutes break; Weighted Pullups + 45kg: 3,3,2 with about 4 min rest; it feels like i am slowly getting in shape though i still lack power endurance and try to overcontroll every on hard flash tries which does not make it easier

Wed: 30 minutes steady run, 4:47/km, the runs starting to feel easier

Thurs: Indoor Climbing, Elements Wall; one 6c/6c+ Boulder 2nd Try after falling off on the last move on my flash try; tried a 6c+ slab boulder but got completely shut down; One-Arm-Pullup Test starting at 120°, got really close on my right arm (more mobility in my neck would have been enough to get my chin over the bar ); made to about 45° on my left arm; one-arm-lockoff + 6kg: 2-3 at 120° and 5-6s at 90° with both arms, bodyweight at 45°: about 10s with right arm and 2-3s with left arm; tried a couple of 7a/7a+ problems but got completely shut down, projected two 6c+ where i got close and could link everything except one move

Fri: 30 minutes steady run; 4:45/km, heart rate 150, decided to buy a decent running watch so i track my runs and relative effort a little bit better

Sat: Indoor Climbing, Elements Wall; Weighted Pullups + 45kg: 3,3,2 (got close on the last rep of the last set); Volume Session at the Kilterboard: 40°; about 20 boulder from 6a to 6c with a short break

Sun: 40 minutes steady run ; 5:00/km, heart rate140, took it a little bit easier which was a good idea; Strength session 3 hours later: 20s, 25s L-Sit, Handstands, 2x12 Pikepushups, 2x10 Fingertips Pushups, 30 pushups, 45s V-Situps; felt surprisingly good, also managed to hold the handstand without a wall start for 15s-20s though form can still be a little bit improved

Very good progress with the weighted pullups. I am probably quite close for a one-armer if i would do some tapering now, but i also noticed some weakness at the top range of the movement. So probably makes sense to work on that specifically though i first want to have one more week of heavy weighted pullups and smash a new PB for a one-rep max the week afterwards.

From a climbing point of view, i feel like physically i am improving, though i could be climbing much better from a technical and mental point of view. Still lacking confidence which costed me a couple of flashes.

Running went quite well, considering that i did not do it in a long time. Was also positively surprised with the level that i still have, e.g. my watch thinks that my VO2 max is at 58 which would easily translate to 5k time below 20 minutes. Just proves a quote from my highschool coach "Your body does have a memory". And with a little bit more of mileage i think i should be in a very good shape for some longer hikes in the alps.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Good evening, hope everyone is well. Solid stats, Derek.

As objectively crap as it is, it excels in having a bounty of linkups, reliable conditions in any weather, flat landings and a short approach, so it's a fantastic venue for training!

All the details will be in the eventual mid-wales + snowdonia south guide, I don't really know much besides what I actually did! Yeah I'm very happy with the A2, so I'll keep doing what I'm doing.

Bingo! I was chatting to a friend this weekend about periodising training strength, endurance and power endurance, but I think I enjoy hard moves too much to spend a whole 4-6 week block doing pumpy routes!

A good week from me, another piece of the dugout puzzle has been solved, then a lot of rest and a big weekend up in the county - finished an old nemesis, and I've gained myself a new project!

Last Week:

M - The Dug Out. Warmed up and spent a little time wiring the pumpy finish of Doug's Belly (f7A+), then linked it from the start in a couple goes. A bit scrappy and brushed my bum along the pads once or twice, but I'm not fussed about cleanliness given the proximity to the ground! Managed to successfully reverse In His Head (f7A+) which may come in handy for some other links. Ice baths before bed.

T - Weigh-in at 77.2kg. PM very light hangs.

W - Assisted one-arm hangs on 19mm. Assistance was with the free hand so not trackable but definitely intense!

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S - Back Bowden Doors. Couldn't get my old sequence on Severus Snape (f7B+) reliably, so used the more conventional tension + toescum. Did it, but the wind blew a crash pad at me as I was popping for the last move. I tried it three more times for purity, but just accepted the ethically skew-whiff tick to save some skin and energy for the rest of the weekend. Swung by Shaftoe Crags and did a couple of neat bits, the highlight being Classic Arete (f6A)!

S - Simonside Woods. Certainly not fresh after Sat, but opened the account on Awooga (f7C) and got surprisingly far, almost slapping the good bit of the arête. Would love to have another visit. Stumpy (f6B) was a decent consolation with some steady crimping and bountiful smears.

M - Swallow Crag. Didn't actually spend much time climbing, but Deep Blue (f7B+) (6Cish?) was an entertaining one. Mostly just walked around the crag thinking about how tired I was!

Next Week:

T - Rest.

W - Antagonists.

T - Dugout? Feels like a shame with the amazing weather! Maybe can coax Ally into going to Kitty's/Bickerton with me?

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Sort out the A2 injury.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Work on PE.

Oberth Effect Proj.

Harvey Oswald SDS.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Good for you!  I hated it at first, but ended up quite enjoying the way it breaks up a session -- and it's obviously good for getting fitter and faster.

That's interesting -- can't hurt though, and I'm going to enjoy doing something where I can measure progress.

This week I've also been adding in some mobility routines from the crimpd app.  I've never been very flexible and have been meaning to start doing something about it for a while -- it feels easier to start a new routine when the sun's shining!

Mon -- Pull ups (10 / 9 / 6) at lunchtime.  Evening projecting session indoors: worked on a crimpy new 7a.  Feels hard, but should go.

Tue -- Hip + leg stretches at lunchtime.  To Wynd Cliff in the evening.  Only had time for one route, Fibre (VS 4c).

Wed --

Thu -- To Symonds Yat in the evening.  Knocked Orange Wall (HVS 5a) off my 2023 ticklist.  Route of the year so far?  Got ropes stuck in fading light.

Fri -- Back to Symonds Yat.  Learnt to prusik, shredded my hands, retrieved the ropes.

Sat -- Sore!

Sun -- 20km run along the canal.  Stretching: hip + legs, upper body, forearms.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. Personal attention as always, thankyou. We drove down to Gower on Friday and came back Monday. More leisurely than a weekend hit. We've been meaning to go for a while. Our planned Scottish trip looked a bit iffy and Gower looked glorious so we thought why not?

Yes I am thinking about things a lot - possibly too much. It's not unfamiliarity with my thumbs. I don't use them on any rock type - other than to wrap over my first finger for a full crimp. 

Regarding decision making you're spot on. I want to be able to make decisions, I am confident are the correct ones, quicker. Part of this has come from the fall practice we've been doing. I want it to be able to give me a clearer head and more certainty in my decisions. It's all a big melting pot really. But in a nutshell I want to move faster/more decisively.

M - Gym after driving back from Gower. Interesting that I upped all my weights at the same RPE. I think this is the difference between training in the afternoon and at 6am.

T - Active hand protocol on 30 degree woody. 10 reps (last week was 5). Shoulder S&C

W - Same as above but on 45 spray wall. This felt very hard today. I was tired and felt saggy.

T - Rest apart from easy 5km run.

F -  Troy Quarry for falling practice. Climbed around on VS/HVS terrain in the sun and tested marginal gear (micro's and badly placed cams). Again cams and nuts are often better than you think. I have officially retired my brassies as every single one I have ever placed has ripped. 

S - DIY day but got a 6km run in.

S -  Wingello Raven Scar New crag day. Short but high quality would be my summary. Also they've squeezed a few too many routes in and you can sometimes wonder if holds are in or out, which is a bit distracting. But on a hot day it's a 15 min walk in, NW facing and catches a breeze to keep midges off. The climbing is high quality and varied. We'll be back. My kind of place. Vertical, small holds with OK feet.

Manned Flight (Direct) (6b) was the starter for falling practice

Solar Power (S) (6c) onsight

Flake Line (S) (6c+) - second go due to not using holds that were in in case they weren't in.

Ravenous (7a) - Flash

Your Route (S) (7a) - Onsight

This week may be thin on the climbing front due to work, family stuff and an indoor comp at the weekend. So I'll crack on with the training.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Climbing in a nutshell!

You're going really well atm. You seem to have stepped up a level and consoidated. Good to see.

In reply to Tyler:

Great week Ash!

Moelwyns are on the list then.

That arete looks amazing. Are the abandoned nuts to weigh a piece of gear down or to get rid of all excess weight?

In reply to biscuit:

Cheers! I feel like I'm enjoying it more as well - less driven by the result and more by loving the process of figuring out details of hard moves.

Dry weather also certainly helps!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thank you Derek,

Pacemaker - Just reading Ian's post and I agree, it is probably only around 6c, however its 30m long and fairly sustained, which is probably double the length of what I am used to at the moment.  I think the issue with the harder trad is not the grade of the moves, but to do them above gear and usually with a full pump.  I moved fairly fast on Pacemaker and it still took me 15 minutes to cover 30m, I doubt I have ever spent that long on a sport RP.

I felt really tired after last week, and that has followed though into this week.  Still been out, but done a bit less.

Unfortunately what I have done was really steep and not good for the elbow tendons, which have been grumbling since.  Natural de-load week incoming next week, so hopefully that will help.

M- Rest

T- Cleaned up a few routes and did a friends new 6c.  Very steep and overhanging

W - Cleaned up a few more routes, but seepage stopped going any further.  Will equip if they ever dry.

T - Fun day in the Mendips with a new 7b an overhanging E2 I prepped a while ago

F - Gave Tarzan the Magnificent (E5 6a) a clean and wanted to go ground-up as my E5 for the week, but without a belayer (and chickened out on the idea of lead solo) I settled for a shunt as the rope was in place be then.  Very steep chossy fun.

S + S Rest

Unlikely to have anything to report next week

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi all, shonky internet signal in the lakes so I can't read all the above post so I'll keep it brief.

Mon. 11km run.

Tues. Rest

Wed. Kingdom Come (E5 6b) ground up (start took a few goes as I kept pulling holds off) then Carls Wark Crack (E2 5c).

Thurs. 43km ride, hills.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Earth quarry. I sight of Shifting Sands (f7A), sends of Early Call (f7B), Little Pinch Punch (f7A) and Big Dig Traverse (f7A+).

Sun. Morning drive up to the lakes. Kids walk in the afternoon, Catseye Cam, Swirral edge, Helvellyn, Raise. About 900m ascent I think starting from the yha accommodation.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the great job on the stats.

The reason for the cuttings was my better half took me away for a long weekend and she doesn't really climb much so I just wanted an easy walk in and easy setting and as I didn't know the island very well thought this would be a good choice.

If you do go to Gilwern I would recommend going to Gilwern east or Gilwern in the woods. Gilwern main is nice but the routes are all a bit to close together and you never know if what you are pulling on is on your rout or the route next to you.

I failed on creating a spreadsheet/log again this week but I am on holiday for the next few days so its my goal of getting it done one morning. 

STG

Push ups at least once a week, minimum 3 sets of 10 - Tick

1 Yoga session - Tick

Eat healthily all week and 1 cheat day on the weekend  - Fail

Write down what I am doing and create some form of log so I can see any trends and weaknesses. - Fail

MTG

e4 - 

New Crags. - 2 of 4 ticked (Portland, Gelli)

M - Wintours leap after work and climbed Puma (HVS 5a), I got the top pitch was interesting and seconded Valley Forge (E2 5c) 

T - Rest

W - Gelli, Not a crag I would recommend unless you like a boulder problem for a start and then just really easy climbing to the top, felt more like I should of took a pad. Climbed Stable Boy's Breakfast (6b) and Cigarillo (6b). Then got shut down by a single move on Free Lunch (6c) which is starting to reinforce my I need to be stronger as I could hold onto all the other moves for a long time just couldn't pull through this one move.

T - Bench Press, Squats, Push Ups

F - Went to wintours and climbed Yr Herwehla (E1 5b). Way to hot so called it a day and went for an icecream

S - Really easy day at 3 cliffs. Spent more time chilling on the beach

S - Early start as I only had until midday. Went to Shorncliff and climbed Motion Pictures (E1 5b) which is a quality route and Touch the Fire (E2 5c)

Lee

In reply to biscuit:

Oh no, don't say that about brassies.

I've always thought they have looked bomber. Admittingly I've never fallen on one but they have always give me a warm fuzzy feeling when i'm gripped out of my mind 🤣.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Still not back to anything like a full schedule, but a bit better this week.

Sun - nothing.  Physical work in garden

Mon - High Stoney Bank with Duncan (another target for year).  A good session as twelve routes including 3 at 6b+ and all new to me.  Finished on a strenuous 6b+ so fairly pleased.

Tues - 4 km Z2 run

Wed - early start for Lakes.  Met Duncan at J33 and then walked up to Pavey Ark, which was quite busy.  Did Rake End Wall, Rib Pitch and Golden Slipper in intense heat.  Surprisingly tiring despite not pushing it at all.  Nice to be up there.  Couldn't get on quite a few things all day.  Someone was working Lexicon.  Crag quite grubby really.

Thurs - 4 sets of max hangs on slopers with plus 9 kg.  4x4 weighted with 9kg.  4 sets of ten push ups.  4 sets of stretching and HB1 & 2 - first training for two weeks following illness.  Felt hard.

Fri - 4 km run.

Sat - garden projects and childminding.

Off to Spain on Thursday so will climb Wednesday and fit in some training if I can!

In reply to Ross Barker:

I somehow doubt my wife is going to let me out this week, with mk2's arrival imminent!

In reply to Derek Furze:

The problem with Munich, compared to Manchester where I used to live, is a lack of decent evening options. There are things that are reachable within an hour's drive for the motivated, but they're really not much cop compared to having most of the Peak half an hour away.

Can't complain too much (or at all really): Frankenjura and the entire Bavarian and Austrian Alps within easy weekend range, Dolomites or Arco for as long weekend, is fantastic. And Konstein is far from being the only less well known but good option in day trip range. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek - observant stats as always.

The Yves style lifts seem to be working and have helped me through a plateau in strength; this week managing BW-2kg on my left hand for 10s x6 sets.  This is actually the same assistance as last year, but i'm 3kg heavier!

I'm jealous of all the outdoor climbs being logged - i'm confined to barracks while we await the imminent arrival of baby Smith. Hence, focusing on some rehab and getting back on the board, with the hope that i'm fit enough for quick hits on various projects later in the summer.

Week 21

M – Daily minimum. Internal rotator rehab. Assisted half lever-lifts.

T – 5x7 BW pull-ups on-the-minute. Warm-up, 2-arm 10s hangs; 2x20, 2x30, 2x40kg. 1-arm hangs; 6x BW-2kg L; BW-4kg R. 18km flat n’ fast road ride @31kph average. Internal rotator rehab. Assisted half lever-lifts. Core COMPEX.

W – Warm up inc 3x new benchmarks, 6B+, 6C+, 7A all flashed. Aero-power intervals, 6C+; HARD when strict on the 30s rest timing. Oblique feeling worked by the end. 5x10 OHP with 30kg barbell.

T – Daily minimum. 3x12 Internal rotator rehab. 3x10 Assisted half lever-lifts.

F – Daily minimum. 2x20 side bends with 10kg kettlebell. 2x20 kettlebell sitting rotations.

S – Daily minimum. 3x12 Internal rotator rehab. 3x10 Assisted half lever-lifts.

S – Board. Warm-up of 4x 6B+, 3x 6C, 2x 7A, all flashed. New “7B+” BM – flashed, but it’s more like 7A/+? Got close on a new 7C BM too. Tried various moves on other projects. Good session, but oblique still a limiting factor on hard stuff. 4x12 OHP 30kg.

BHM – 34km hilly and cobbled road ride. 75min. Thumbs worked over by a cobbled descent. Daily minimum. Crimpd static core, inc side planks.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi Derek, thanks as ever for your supportive comments. Partying is important, although I no longer partake – whatever helps us revive the spirits or shrug off downers, whatever they are…

Last week and the start of this is all a bit strange – and yet all too familiar. Until now I’ve tried to keep the trauma stuff out of this, and as I’ve noted a couple of times, posting on the Fit Club thread has really helped. And so again this week – what I managed to do despite all the other stuff going on…
At the same time, maybe this week is the right moment to indicate a bit more of what this other stuff is, taking it as a kind of ‘chronic injury’ I have to learn to deal with (flexibly and neither simply collapse and capitulate nor activate ‘teeth-gritting’ willpower) if I want to get out climbing more; it seems as if this stuff and its various aftermath manifestations will be making their presence felt for the foreseeable future after all.
And perhaps some other Fit Clubbers and our lurking audience have similar things to contend with. The diagnosis is complex PTSD and I’ve been in therapy for four years now – this week seems appropriate because I twice had to drag the aftershock of nightmares with me when I went climbing (4 nightmares in 12 nights: there’s a lot going on!!!). That’s all I need to say I suppose – I certainly have no intention of turning my posts into ‘psycho’ reports. On the other hand, not to mention it this week would be akin to denying it…
As it was the week went well, and finished with a lovely day out, ‘picnic climbing’ – and getting the dates / accommodation set for the climbing jaunt to Lago di Ledro and Arco…second week in June.

Mon: stretching & finger board session
Tue: wall, Freimann, bouldering & autobelays; bouldering was dreadful – was lugging around the aftereffects of a nightmare, and it got the better of me; took a long break and then moved to the autobelays, which went much better, indeed really well: 5 x 6b, 5 x 6c, and actually got two 6cs done first go…so, all’s well that ends well? Yes, definitely, and yet I’m puzzled as to why the nightmares are becoming more frequent again…
Wed: stretching, upper body, core
Thu: wall, Thalkirchen: 7 routes: 5c, 6b, 6a+, 6c, 6c+, 6c+, 6b; it was good to lead three routes in the 6c/6c+ range again, and while no ticks they went quite well – the last time I did three leads in this range was the Munich Fit Club Meet, various circumstances having gotten in the way; finished as usual with a play on the 15° spray wall
Fri: stretching, upper body, core
Sat: morning: weeding the vegetable patches at the farming cooperative; afternoon: home gardening
Sun: Oberes Pleitewandl, crag in Chiemgau, 5 routes, 3 of them twice, so 8 ‘ascents’; lovely day, good to be back at our ‘home’ crag: tall trees, sun shining through the leafy canopies, gurgling stream in the background, decent rock, nice routes. Couple of new routes bolted at the sector – one of them has certainly aroused my interest. Perhaps an autumn project…and this despite another nightmare – we decided to go nonetheless and all went well. Quite a relief really….

Wishing everyone a good week – and you, Derek, a great time in Spain!

Paul

In reply to Small Step:

Can highly recommend Osteria La Torre in Ledro - the highlight of a wet long weekend last year.

In reply to Derek Furze:

STG: depends on local weather & conditions
MTG: tick any of my local long term projects and/or a new-to-me 7a 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: Rest day. Half an hour stretching  mobility

T:  Pullups, pressups, rings supports, skin the cats.

W: Wall, Thalkirchen kilterboard bouldering.
    Shoulder health stuff afterwards including dumbbell presses, face pulls
    Bike one hour to & from

T: I intended to take two complete rest days before the long weekend as per last week's plan, but it was such a lovely evening I couldn't resist taking the bike out into the woods for an hour: active rest!
F: 
S: Frankenjura. Röthenbacher Wand. Sticking to relatively obscure sectors to avoid the holiday weekend crowds, I fancied another look at Zeitfenster (VIII+), which I've tried a couple of times before but not for a long time. Fighting my way back up to my previous high point turned out to be absolutely at my limit, and while it's fairly clear how the crux goes, the holds are so poor I couldn't manage anything more than some hopeless lunging & slapping. Good route though, and refreshingly well protected by Frankenjura standards. But also another sunny south facing slab, so maybe another one to look at again in the Autumn.
After abandoning Zeitfenster for the day I had a play on a new 6c+ nearby. Short, bouldery sequence and great fun - did all the moves but was too tired to get the redpoint today

S: Frankenjura. My second warmup of the day made it very clear that I was still still powered out from yesterday, no surprises there.  I wanted to be recovered to go hard again tomorrow, so I pottered about on some easy routes and belayed my mate, who does not believe in pacing or rest days, and climbs considerably harder than me except during his frequent periods of injury.
    Having climbed in the Frankenjura precisely once last year before my shoulder injury, it is very apparent that it's going to take me a bit of time to readjust to the climbing style. And the bolt spacing. At the monent I'd sooner dog around on a well bolted VIII+ like Zeitfenster, than be terrified on some mossy fifteen metre VI that somebody put two bolts in back in the 80s.

In reply to Small Step:

Paul, good to hear fit club helps a bit. I'm very lucky to not have significant trauma/PTSD to deal with, but have found climbing really helpful in dealing with low mood and struggling with complex family issues. I'm aware that I've made climbing a central part of my life, probably too much so, and that I do get driven by chasing achievements. But I'm also aware of the dangers of this, so I try to be 'generous' to myself and forgiving, and accentuate simple positives i.e. 'felt tired and weak but at least I got to the wall twice this week and tried' or 'failed to onsight my goal routes but had a full day out in a beautiful place with decent company.' etc.

One of the things that really resonated with me was a conversation with a very good climber from the 90s (I won't name them for privacy), whose wife died from cancer and they raised their 3 kids as a single parent as well as holding down a high level job. As a result they couldn't really climb outside for many years but they built a woody in their garage where they would train with friends when their kids were asleep. As they weren't climbing outside it wasn't that they had any specific climbing goals to aim for, but never the less the act of regularly training/moving was essential for their well being. That climber described how when they eventually were able to go outside they would do a series of easy routes regularly at their local crag and they described it as their own form of meditation, or mindful practice.

Just my thoughts really, that the fit in fitclub could mean many things from higher Font grades through to a healthier mind.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek. You’d give Mystic Meg a run for her money after your OAPU insight…

Well…

ended up doing 7 sets of varying intensity, and a couple of 8mm pull-ups for good measure. Turns out this is well beyond my current capacity and had nothing left in the tank to climb with!

Tue

Wall

• Micros 8mm BW. Added another 3s to my hangs and got 3x 10s
• Micros 8mm BW Pullup. Managed it with a thumb press on the side but couldn’t do it thumbless.
• OAPU (assist hand on shoulder) 3x 1
• OAPU (assist hand on bicep) 2x 2
• Had nothing left in the tank after this but I’ve been eating/drinking like crap and probably did too much. Think I’ll try moving the OAPUs to the end of the session so I get some decent climbing done as well.
• Terrible hour on the Comp Wall

Wed

Antags & Core

• BAPlanche 3x 10s
• Wall Handstand 3x 1min
• DFlag Negatives 3x 5
• Copenhagen Plank dips 3x 5. These felt a bit more useful than static holds but still not convinced. Tentatively keeping them in as the novelty is actually making me train core.

Fri

Fingers & OAPU

• OA Hangs 6x 7s 35mm BW so will move to a 25mm edge and take weight off.
• OAPU Negatives w/Lockoff at Top/90/120 3x 1 (88%BW)

Weigh-in

Parents finally left so stepped on the scales after a week of troughing. 83.8kg (+3.2kg!) Expecting about 2.5kg to be water weight so should be back on track next week.

In reply to Derek Furze:

They do get some stars in the new guides but on the evidence of two days out they’ve certainly not gone overboard.
I don’t think any trad venues are busy these days so no need to look for quiet crags but it is sometimes necessary to look for quieter parking and the Moelwynion can help worth that!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Im wary of overhyping but if it’s on your list anyway then the 5 min extra to the upper tier is well worthwhile. I’m keen to do Nosferatau as that is one that does actually get three stars in the new guide. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Having watched your Insta video I must say this looks like the perfect boulder problem. Thwack, pop, done! That’s what boulder problems should be

In reply to biscuit:

Just in case it wasn’t obvious the arete is not anything I climbed! It sounds as though it looks better than it is being a literal boulder problem in the sky with a soft peg you can backup with RPs if you are prepared to ab it first. The runner at Dan’s foot is not that good

In reply to Derek Furze:

I'm pretty sure I will have prepped next week's post before I leave Friday.  Could someone offer an email address and I will aim to send a word file through?  Then, next Sunday just cut and paste on my behalf.  I will sort out responses for the following weekend...🙂

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi All. Thanks, Derek, for mentioning me in dispatches despite me being MIA last week!

I'm going to post a double header this week, as it will be less confusing than posting in last week's thread too!

Week 20:

M: Rest.

T: Trail run. 11.4km, 340m vert, 6:31/km.

W: Climbing at Kilnsey. Got Quiet Flight Direct (7a+) on second tie in. Chuffed to do this in just two sessions, although may have gone left too early at top so only 7a? Happy either way.

T: Rest.

F: Hill run. 29.4km, 2420m vert. 15:48/km. Attempt at the Glen Coe skyline. Not quite as fit as I thought, so only did the side south of the A82 (could have done the whole thing, but it would have buried me in a deeper hole than was sensible ahead of my Mingulay trip).

S: Strength session, mauling around massive bags of gear and food! Sailed to Mingulay.

S: Climbing on Guarsey Mor. Highlight was leading first pitch of Too Young for a Gladiator (E1 5b)

Week 21:

M: Climbing on Arnamul. Arnamul Magic (E2 5b) and Kraken's Gullet (E2 5b) -amazing climbing, steeper than my traditional 'style', but Mingulay grades!

T: Climbing on Arnamul (originally braved the ab in to Creag Dhearg, but jugged out after dropping in to a wind that blew 50m of rope out completely horizontally!) Arnamul Instincts (E3 5c) -but only led the easy pitch on this one!

W: Climbing on The Boulevard. Highlight was leading the amazing Ossian Boulevard (E2 5b), but Taxing Macphee (E3 5c) and Okeanos (E3 5c) were superb too.

T: Sula (E2 5b) -no words for this... To try and describe it would never do the experience justice. Made all the sweeter as we'd been contending with huge seas all week, making it seem unlikely that we would be able to get on it. 

F: Climbing at Waterfall Geo. A chilled session soloing half a dozen routes up to VS. 

S: Back to civilisation.

S: Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) -day one of a chilled two day traverse. Not trying to smash it out in one day makes it very type 1! Nice bivy complete with sun setting in to the sea.

STG (End of May)

Sula (E2 5b) -TICK

Glen Coe skyline -FAIL

Cuillin ridge -TICK

MTG (End of July)

Two of my Grande Course wish list.

Two more chilled alpine rock routes.

In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Sorry! Just my experience. I may be bad at placing them. 
 

In reply to Tom Green:

That sounds like a GREAT trip. Pretty perfect. 

In reply to biscuit: re brassies - I assume we’re talking RPs I’ve found it really depends on the rock type/quality and the fall dynamics. I’ve taken v big falls on RP1s back when I was younger and arguably dumber. They were on slabs where it feels like a lot of loading is dissipated by sliding down the rock. Due to the tiny surface area it only takes a slight crumble in the rock and they are massively compromised. The margins for error are no where near as forgiving as larger wires. But bottom line I guess is don’t be young and dumb too often 😅

In reply to biscuit:

Yep! It was pretty perfect… hard to think how it could have been much better! (Other than staying there forever!)

In reply to biscuit:

Another thought... Troy isn't a big place, so you couldn't have had a lot of rope out.  This raises the impact force. Perhaps different with 30m out and several other bits in the chain?

In reply to Tom Green:

Whe hey!

In reply to Tom Green: awesome couple of weeks Tom - full island experience. 

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Hopefully you’ll have the same weather but less swell for Pabbay!

In reply to Small Step:

I think FitClub is exactly the place to note down the mental side of things if we want to (equally, no pressure if we don’t want to!). It’s just as relevant to climbing and training as all of the other things we might talk about… sleep, weight, physical illness and injury, etc. 

Mind set and climbing are such a ‘feedback loop’ -each can improve the other (or, less happily, adversely affect the other!) in a positive or negative cycle. It makes perfect sense that we acknowledge that in our training posts. 

I guess it links in with the chat that came out of the Dave Mac video a couple of weeks ago. 

In reply to Tyler:

Epic picture! I just moved the Moelwyns up my places-to-visit list!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Good luck!

In reply to Small Step:

I've only been up there a couple of times (and the first time most of it was wet!) so you doubtless know it much better than me. But just in case: have you done Equilibrium? Top notch 6c.

The Hochwand in that area also seems to have a lot of fans, but I've never been there.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Great bank holiday starting Derek. Happy to say that Pabbay was an absolute blast! 
 

S - travel day

S - easing in with some HVS’s at Banded Geo

M - Spring Squill (E1 5b) and Wetter Than a Day at the Beach (E1 5b)

T - Spooky Pillar (E1 5b) and an unnamed E2

W - a dream day on Prophecy of Drowning (E2 5c). Well worth the 4 stars! 
 

T - one of the best pitches of climbing I’ve done on Immaculate Conception (E2 5b) followed by Spicy Mayhem (E1 5b)

F - Corncrakes for Breakfast (E2 5c), then had a minor epic on Bogus Asylum Seekers (E3 6a). Started raining halfway up, pressed on and then peeled off a wet crux

S - travel day to Barra

S - travel day over to Skye 

Absolutely chuffed with the trip and just happy that my wrist held up reasonably well! 

In reply to SteveJC94:

Belting!

In reply to SteveJC94: Steve it sounds like that Immaculate Conception area is worth a visit then?

In reply to SteveJC94:

Awesome! Sounds like a parallel trip to mine! Did you have much trouble with big seas on Pabbay or were you avoiding some of the higher swells? Great work on Prophecy -I was admiring it from the north end of our island!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Yeah it’s well worth checking out. It’s just beautiful techy climbing in fantastic position. On the zawn between Shags Geo and Big Bloc Sloc there’s definitely potential for a few dozen new routes 

In reply to Tom Green:

Fantastic! I hear the bird life can be pretty exciting on Mingulay - few people have mentioned that the Bonxies make the walk to the crags a bit of a mission! 
 

Yeah the swell was a bit problematic. We’d hoped to get a few more lines done on the Poop Deck but the seas were that rough some days the top of the buttress was getting washed! 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Yeah, I’m feeling like the trips away have worked fairly well. I’ve not done anything super hard yet but I’ve done more trad than in the last 3 years combined I should think. I think I did a handful of routes in 2020, a few days in 2021 and a day or two in 2022 - between the pandemic and wanting to try to involve at least one of the children in my plans to avoid leaving MrsAJM with both, trad has been something of a challenge. I think we need a few weekends closer to home when we get back, there’s only so much travel we can do, but I’m working on sorting out the next opportunity…

Yes, my friend has thrown things off at me before at shorncliff. Big hold covered in polish and chalk!

Thanks Derek! Fairly quiet week between unpacking from one weekend away and packing for half term. Whilst we went to Ramshaw, I think it’s a place where I’d need a bunch of people heckling in order to fully set myself up for a mauling! It’s harder to engage in something you know is going to be a bit of a battle when you’re tired and on your own! But the weather is delivering in spades!

Monday - usual post weekend faff.

Tuesday - usual walking, some rehab, some pushups.

Wednesday - not a lot. MicroAJM off nursery so a bunch of admin and parenting

Thursday - usual walking, packing faff.

Friday - drive to the in-laws

Saturday - usual bank holiday traffic on the way up into the peak given the glorious weather and the start of half term. Everyone a bit frazzled and done with travelling when we arrived, which combined with feeling a bit sun blasted (it took longer for shade to arrive than I had expected, obvious in hindsight on the more standalone boulders we went to, and there was initially little wind) meant the psyche for engaging in battle with Ramshaw Rocks was lower than it needed to be! We did a handful of things but quickly decided to head to our basecamp, shop, and relax.

Sunday - microAJM had a very disturbed night - fell out of bed about 3, muttered and moaned for a bit in her sleep afterwards, and then got up at 6 with a raging fever! Knocked us sideways a bit. After a bit of time waiting to check she was ok we popped out for a few hours to Castle Naze in the afternoon. MiniAJM did a bit of toproping and I led a couple of things, the highlight being Nozag (VS 4c). MiniAJM was definitely less patient than he has been in the last though which is a bit of an issue.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Disappointed to report that my back has gone. This isn’t the first time it has happened so at least I know what to do for rehab and recovery. So I am going to be quiet on this forum for a little while until I am back up and running. Will be posting again soon hopefully.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Having just cycled home from my last training session on the month, I though I'd get in quick with a month in review

• actual climbing: 4 days. Culture shock after three Greek trips and not having been to the Frankenjura for a year: where have all the bolts gone?.
• wall sessions: ten. Four routes, six bouldering. (Plus a grand total of one fingerboard session at home) Still enjoying routes, but have shifted the emphasis more to bouldering. Making some progress on the kilterboard. 
• Stretching: 9 days. Versus 7 in April - better but still room for further improvement
• General strength & conditioning: 9 sessions - mostly a few sets in the Thalkirchen weights room after bouldering. My first venture into above bodyweight deadlifting. Feels like a good idea to not be all climbing all the time
• General cardio: 26 hours. Ten hours increase over April accounted for by two hillwalking days, the rest biking in the woods and around town
• Average hours slept: 7.7 good

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks, Alan - duly noted: we will certainly be up for a good meal after our tentside cooking for the first few days. Could be a great way to end our sojourn in Ledro.

In reply to the sheep:

Hope you’re on the mend soon! 

In reply to AlanLittle:

Touched the holds, looked up, thought it somehow doable, checked the grade again, and pondered where the difficult sections could be - it looks fantastic. Should I ever get around to setting goals then it is certainly one of the first on the list. Can you remember if you tied the belayer in with a sling? The slant of the slab for the belayer and the drop below might be challenging for my wife... 

I walked up there one day - the rock felt and looked terrific. Everyone climbing in t-shirts, the belayers all in down jackets in the chilly shade. It's a long walk in. I'd be definitely up for a day there sometime in the future....

In reply to Small Step:

I remember we felt uncomfortable on that ledge, and the crux is low down - definitely one for a stick clip on the first bolt. 

In reply to the sheep:

Aw that sucks. Get well soon. 

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Hi Ian,
thanks so much for your input, sharing your own take on how climbing helps us with the 'rest' of life, and telling us about the conversation you had - and the story of someone who could obviously adjust to their difficult situation and still tap into what was essential for them and find a way to make it work - there's a real lesson in there.
Generosity to oneself is very prevalent for me at the moment - you mentioning it thus resonates strongly and I'm glad its part of your reflective process. I'm learning it...and mindfulness is definitely part of that, a gentle hand guiding me back when I drift into the old stale negative currents - it too is indeed a form of fitness. And so can be trained.
And to the Fit Club - your post, Tom has also posted below, Derek is helpful every week, biscuit joining in on mental preparation and fall practice, and of course meeting and climbing with Alan and Randy - suddenly I really don't feel that isolated...It's all helping me and I'm grateful for that...
 

In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks Tom. Yes, I was definitely a bit reluctant or even shy at the beginning to state fully what was going on 'in the background'.  One thing I'd add is the necessity for me to gain some clarity - I genuinely sense that the loop is positive at present, at least in its general tendency, so that any negativity is not the flip into a contrary cycle but a brief jar or moment of dissonance - staying patient is key. Move from the detail to see the bigger picture, so to say...

Your trip sounds awesome - and I can imagine you'll be revelling in a positive glow for quite some time.

Paul

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks for the info, Alan.

And already my mind has cooked up a plan: panic express my way up the route bolt for bolt, work the moves on toprope and take it from there...

Wish you a good weekend.

In reply to the sheep:

Wishing you a good and speedy recovery, Sheep.

In reply to Small Step:

We didn't have a real clipstick, so we made one with an actual stick and some finger tape. For two software engineers, we were quite proud of our real engineering triumph.