UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 947
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_946-7809...

Firstly, I'm ready for a break from stats!  I'm off to Spain in June anyway so it would be difficult to cover those two weeks anyway, so I'd like to finish my stint with my last post being Sunday 25th May.  This would mean someone taking over for Sunday 1st June.  Sorry to have come to this decision somewhat suddenly, but when I looked at the diary, I realised I would be up against it throughout the summer almost every week as we have a lot of weekends away.  Is there anyone ready to step up to keep our crew on the right path?
Secondly, and this is dangerously close to head game discussions, I've found the last few weeks much harder to do, mainly because I've been personally struggling treading water while managing injury.  The usual inspiration and motivation coming from the wonderful posts has been running headlong into my own need to re-learn exactly what I can carry on doing.  This has been oddly dissonant so is another reason for a breather while I focus on myself for a bit!
Thirdly, posts compiled late and without much checking, so apologies if they are littered with typos!

Ian Parnell:  You seem to have swapped the regular, punishing trips to Swindon for a challenging daily duty, so possibly even more stressful than it was before!  Easy to understand where training energy has gone - save yourself for the occasions when you can get out as it is far more rewarding to enjoy yourself in nice places than in some attic facility!  In any case, given that you are contemplating 7b for the first time in 26 years, you are obviously in peak physical condition following your winter cycle.  Great that your sister's visit will give you chance to get away from Deep Rake for a week at least!
Impressed that you've kept going to Roche Abbey and are working through some challenging problems.  Interesting experience on Impossible Roof Arete with the frustrations of getting it all linked.  I guess that's what bouldering is about really?  Dragon Fly looks like a right snatch-fest, so again well done for giving it a second working session in the week.
Good to see your quick progress at Deep Rake.  As you remarked somewhere, you do seem to be getting efficient at sport climbing and it is clearly working!

Exile:  Another really consistent week that mixes in training and getting out doing stuff - very impressive to keep both going along as well as you do.  The only think that I noticed missing was your PE training, but then you are now putting in more time on rock, so something has to go!    
PBs noted with the bench presses which is good progress considering how plenty of other stuff was affected by the heat.  Small edges on the fingerboard are going to be affected by the slightest bit of moisture, so understandable that the times came down a bit.
Getting on the rock four times in the week is excellent and is making good use of the evenings.  I can't remember if I eve rdid evenings in the Lakes when I lived in Lancaster, but it must be fantastic to be able to get to Borrowdale after work.  Looks like a tough time at Scout Scar, but that's what I remember about the place anyway though probably from thirty years back or more.  Not sure that I have ever been to Millside Scar, so don't know the target route there.  The session at Giggleswick Quarry looked good - plenty of stars and some good onsights.  It seems to be remarkably popular at the moment - is there a particular reason for this?
I tried to suggest a Steel Knotts visit when up in the Lakes this week, but was outvoted, so it will have to wait a while longer.  It looks really good though.

Randy:  Once again, great to see the work and progress on Slimline!  You've got us all very excited as it seems to be getting much more reliable with each trip - 'crux move was really solid' and a new highpoint.  The second session looked like much better conditions, so it clearly makes quite a difference.  I like the 'technically' assessment of 'done the route with one hang' as well - really good to have got to that point this season and clearly helpful motivation for a busy period at work.
Hopefully, this gives you a good opportunity to focus on finger rehab as it sounds like it has taken a bit of hammer.  I think you set out your summer plan last week, so I look forward to some training reappearing on the schedule and some more trips on Frankenjura classics when you have cleared your work schedule!

AlanLittle:  Sorry to hear about the injury which has probably arrived at a very bad time.  I see that there was an exchange about recommendations for expert help, so obviously something that you are quite worried about.  Hopefully, you can get some guidance and start some positive rehab soon - always better when you have a pathway forwards with these things.  In the meantime, bike bimbling is fine...
Given the injury, I was quite surprised to see the Moonboard session in the week, especially as you even remarked that 'controlling the swing' and contact strength were the issue.  I'd have thought that these were exactly the things that cause these ruptures?  Then I read onwards and noticed that you had arrived at exactly that conclusion!  Personally, I always feel that walls are more likely sources of injury than any other climbing that I do, but perhaps that reflects how little I use them!
Good to see that hillwalking and biking are still options for the next period anyway.  Re your trip to England and possible extension, just keep us in the picture with your thoughts.  As you say, no use if you are injured, but if you do extend, then I will let Charles and Pete know as well as I know you've climbed with them.

Somerset swede basher:  Thanks for enlightening me about Strava's features - my only observation is that when my friend records her runs on strava, it always seems to show her running further and faster than the parkrun official time, whereas my Garmin watch has it spot on!
Yes, amazin gto have this summer sunshine throughout Spring.  it will be a bit of a shock when it finally breaks as we are all getting used to it now.
Despite the parenting responsibilities, you've had a decent week with the running and bike rides surrounding your bouldering sessions.  The Hollin Hill session was fairly productive, especially noting conditions and the Rowtor Rocks was also decent despite the constraints that you were working with - going well as ever and ticking 7A quickly is moving well.  Apply that to trad and you'll be setting things on fire!
Glad to see that the collective cam anxiety has worked out well.  I look forward to the likes of Ray's Roof being done soon.

Si dH:  An interesting week of training with the experiment thrown in.  Pulling up with 20kg attached is an impressive experiment, so clearly some residual strength there with an exercise that you haven't been working for ages.  Not so good if it triggered pain though and I hope you have managed to get that quickly settled.  Consistent work through the week though with the hangs at plus 20kg and the regular pull ups.
The grumbly elbow that you experienced at the back end of the week is a bit of a worry , given your history with elbow issues.  Hope it is back under control and I guess the Sheep Pen visit plannedand the particular targets you've got will be a real test of it!  The 'pulled on a few holds' on Saturday experience doesn't look that encouraging, but then you did some rehab in the evening so we will see in next week's reports.  
Good to see that the diet is working well and your weight is steadily heading downwards.

mrchewy:  You seem to have got some kind of grip on your legs at least and are working positively and productively on whatever the source of the problem seems to be!
Some early starts this week and heavy work involved, so quite surprising that you got so much done at the gym / wall anyway.  twenty routes on a wall is going some - certainly a lot of aero work in that session and then lapping the big hold route is a lot of mileage.  Going again the following day is pretty punishing, but changing the approach to technique was a good idea.  Pilates as well so an alpine day in magnitude!
Another big session on the Friday, again with a lot of stamina type work and a fair bit of try hard on the 6c+ and 6b+.  Impressive after the succession of early starts and physical work and such a contrast to a year back!  Glad to hear that the legs are improving, despite getting a couple of walks in during the week.  All good progress with your Scotland trip in mind - a 30% improvement in a week is worth having!
 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Tom Green:  Yes, very hard to be disciplined with training in such wonderful weather, so I think you are doing an excellent job of it.  Your point about 'junk' outdoor miles was interesting - I feel I've been forced into this a bit while I've been trying to assess what works or not with my wrist, but I'd also say I'm guilty of this anyway.  This also reflects my usual climbing partner's choices as well, but none of them would object if I jumped on something more ambitious at any point, so it is a poor excuse!
The Cloggy trip was entertaining to read about on both of your posts.  I thought I'd done Pigott's, but on checking my log I had misremembered - it was Pedestal Crack Direct instead.  Not sure I'm tempted by that, but Vember is on my list so disappointed to read your assessment of that!  Anyway, a good reminder that getting up to the higher crags should be on the agenda while the hot, dry spell persists - another two weeks at least apparently!
Well done fitting in the sessions despite 'life events' getting in the way.  A quieter week than usual for you, but I think you've been back on it well since.

Tyler:  Great entertainment provided by the Cloggy experience and amusing that you are now recalibrating all grades in response to the top pitch.  Some of the older style things are a bit of a shock (top pitch of Curving is also notorious or Botterill's on Scafell) and it is astonishing how good some of the pioneers were at particular skills or styles.  There was a fair bit of top-roping practice as well (understandably given the protection options).  
Interesting that DSTH has grabbed your attention and some good progress made this week on your after work hit.  Good also to spend some time on the newer bits in the limestone area and 'almost excellent' is very positive as was the tidying up effort at Bryn Dulas.  I quite enjoyed my one visit there, but my partner really didn't like it.  I might be able to tempt him back if re-equipping has been going on as he was bit spooked by the poor state of some of the bolts.

biscuit:  Great to hear that you have reassessed things and sorted out a more manageable gym session.  I'm in the process of reassessing myself, so know what you are grappling with in trying to find the right balance.
Plenty done across the week really with the three gym sessions (!) and the autobelay work at the Depot.  Good to see that you continued your bouldering mission and had some real successes in what sounds like a lovely spot up on Wrynose.  Crack mission also continues with Brantrake (oops!) followed by the switch to Bell Stand and good results there, even if conditions and /or route-finding challenges added to the difficulties.  You are getting to some interesting places anyway and should be on for your Lancashire cracks this Tuesday as the weather looks mint.  Can't remember if the two of you have organsied a venue yet, but plenty of bone dry stuff to go for across the land.

AJM:  Hopefully you have some insights into your shoulder issues by now?  It would be good to hear that the physio was positive and optimistic that things will be sorted out quickly, as it certainly looks like itis inhibiting you when you are out and about bouldering or whatever.  Mind you, microAJM also appeared to give you something to think about as well!  I do remember something similar on occasion and it led us to teach them some self-rescue stuff as a game - they then had this as an option if they got stuck and didn't want 'help', which seemed to work.  Taught them basics like how to ascend the rope and how to attach to an abseil line lowered alongside them.  I absolutely agree with the 'only way to have good days out is to keep leaving the house to have days out' - this is very much the climbing in Scotland philosophy!
I can't imagine what puerile ticking there is at Chudleigh?  Is it in any coffee table books?  I had one day there slipping around on glass like polish and haven't been back.

mattrm:  Another good week with your regular trip out climbing again, though a comedy of errors from the Wye Valley team!  I climbed for years without a helmet - they were a rare sight at one point - but if I forget it now I almost feel naked, even on sport!  WIth Shorncliff being well-known for losing bits of crag periodically, it is probably a place to wear one at all times!  Anyway, good effort getting stuff done, even if some was repeats.  It all helps.
Yes, the MTB is probably good cross-training, but my (fairly expert) runner friend says that it needs at least treble the time on the bike for the same training gain.  Mind you, he is talking road cycling and (presumably) without the wonky wheel drag.
A shame to hear that you are still struggling with elbow issues after a period where you felt it was improving.  Still, worth persisting with rehab and I'd assume that changing the rehab stimulus is probably useful.  I think I mentioned the radio peice on joint pain last week in my response to AJM, but worth repeating that the expert said 'nearly all' joint pain is tendon-related and nearly all caused by muscle weakness making the tendon work too hard.  Worth thinking about strengthening?

ExBristolian:  I always think that fingerboard repeaters are quite shoulder intense anyway, so swapping out a board session for them might not have saved your body much?  At plus 21kg, repeaters like that are actually impossible for me regardless!  Not surprised they felt hard.
The analysis of the board session on Thursday made interesting reading and I almost fell off my chair to read that you need 'more strength' to get it over the line.  Clearly this shows that you need to pull your finger out and put the work in!  10% better in one session is good progress really with at the limit bouldering surely?  Strikes me that you get enormous value from your board anyway and I can begin to see how they could become quite addictive.  Good to have a real project to revisit anyway and I see that you intend to go back to the 7C as well.
Yet another virus!  You do seem to have suffered this year, but possibly the long period of stress didn't help.

Ross Barker:  Entertaining to see the start of the week where you were somewhat held back by DOMS.  That will teach you to mess about with weights in a moderately competitive way!  I recollect the slight sense of 'I'm quite impressed with myself' from last week's report, so interesting to see that you were clearly trying hard!  Iti s striking how we can feel quite fit and strong until we start doing something highly focused on a particular muscle.
Excellent flash of a V7+ and MB 'Hard Times', which combined with the OAPU and hangs is a good session recovering from the rigours of the heavy lifting.  Decent session on the Friday as well, though noted that it was unfocused so entered on the spreadsheet under 'junk miles'
A great session out on Cwn Glas bouldering with a few good ticks and other things worked out to some extent at least.  These things sound and look really hard to me, so figuring them out so quickly is very impressive.  At least there was one that I might have managed towards the end of the day!
No mention of finger issues so going well?

BTphonehome:  Thanks for your faith in my writing skills.  So far, Biscuit has not got me involved in any forthcoming editions.  Anyway, if you follow the WhatsApp chat, it seems that I spend much of my time high on drugs, so am probably an unreliable co-author!  This is actually way off the mark as we don't indulge at all in anything harder than alcohol.
Great to see that you got out to Lester Mill.  I have only looked at the place - a quick November tour with Tom when it was absolutely dripping.  I think this was mainly so he could show me his route on the upper tier (which he is keen for someone to repeat).  Evil Crystal must be hard if you had to rest - perhaps a power-endurance thing?  Steve Mac says that this is the least trained thing in most climbers, so it will often surprise us when it hits?  Pagan is almost next to it isn't it?
Great also to see you get over to Anglesey.  Some of those more obscure bits of rock are good fun and have some real quality, though quite different from the usual Anglesey experiences!

the sheep:  Triathlon upcoming then?  Excellent stuff and let us know if there are links so we can track progress - there often are for these things.  Glad to hear that you are reasonably confident that you can get by on the bike if you are run fit.  It always feels like quite a different set of muscle actions to me, but then I'm no good at either!  At least your swimming has been reliable for years and you've had the stroke deconstruction this year, so should be in a good place with that leg at least - this is assuming that there is any water to swim in by then!
The Sunday run sounds fabulous and an uplifting experience.  I do sometimes reflect that going for a run away from my normal canal trails would be a nice thing to do, but somehow don't make those opportunities enough.  I've just had a couple of days in the Lakes climbing, but could easily have gone for a fell run in the evening to make more of the trip.  Instead, I drank wine enjoying the evening sunshine!  Anyway, a good, solid week for you. 

Nothing in from Small Step, msjhes2 or Derek Furze this week!  I shall make sure I give at least one of them a right b*ll*cking!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks as always for the stats Derek! Priority for the next weeks will be on recovery of the left ring finger and getting back some endurance. So be prepared for some rather boring reports for the next weeks.

Mon-Fri: No training, but a lot of work

Sat: Pullups: 4x10 with 2 min rest, Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @17-18kg with 2 min rest; finger is still bothering me a little bit and i felt some pressure during the pullups around the A2 pulley, repeaters luckily were pain free and felt quite easy. I will probably keep the load in that region for the next week but maybe increase the volume depending on how i feel.

Sun: Rest

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi comrades. Great work once more with the stats, Derek. You've put in a marathon stint of very high quality reflections, so you are probably due a break!

With the continued good weather, I'm having a bit of an existential crisis... I'd love to be making every day a climbing day, cramming in quick bouldering sessions or easy soloing missions, but instead I've been trying to stick with the plan and just concentrate on a smaller number of high quality climbing days. However, autobelay aerocap doesn't nourish the soul as much as junk miles soloing mountain v diffs, even if it is more beneficial! Managed to find a balance this week...

Week 19:

M: CARs, Prehab, Board, Aerocap.

T: Trail run. 7.4km, 271m vert, 6:51/km. Still not breaking any distance records but felt good to put some ascent through the legs.

W: Climbing. Good trad day at Rhoscolyn. Chuffed to find The Savage Sunbird (E2 5b) relatively steady -the main challenge was fighting the intimidation from the guidebook description of 'barely adequate gear' (I placed 19 pieces!) Seconded Ian on his brilliant ascent of The Viper -a pretty masterful trad lead.

T: Climbing. Post work solo (I know I said I'm avoiding these junk sessions, but it was technically an 'extra' -active recovery?!) Seven routes on  Barmouth Slabs -four up, three down.

F: CARs, Prehab (postponed the strength sesh until sunday to avoid being tired for Sat).

S: Climbing. Sport at Dinbren. Opened an account on Do Walls Have Ears (7a+) -did all the moves, should go quickly with cooler weather and better skin?

S: Megasesh: CARs, Prehab, Fingers, Board sesh, weighted pull-ups and Aerocap. Wouldn't want too many uber-sessions like this, but felt good to have a thorough beasting, especially as the coming week is likely to be training-light.

Week 20:

M: CARs, Prehab.

T: Run.

W: CARs, Prehab, Core.

T: CARs, Prehab, Fingers, Aerocap.

F: Rest.

S: Climbing.

S: Climbing.

STG (End May):

Five E2s (4/5)

Get on some E3s (Tick x2)

Onsight 6c.

Two aerocap sessions per week.

LTG (Nov 2025):

40 E-points (23/40)

Onsight E4.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, you'll be a hard act to follow on the stats.

I updated my monthly totals in my training spreadsheet, and March and April turnout to be - not intentionally - two of the highest volume months I've ever done. Suddenly having a sore finger looks less surprising.

STG: Recover from suspected A2 pulley sprain
MTG: Summer '25 - Dolomites and/or Swiss granite. Salbit hut booked.
LTG: Autumn '25 - tufa 7a
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823

Poorly finger rehab. Week One: total rest

M:    No-hangs without using the injured finger: left hand crimp, right hand middle 2 & back 2. 

T:    Bike two hours, 20 minutes stretching - hillwalking & biking make for stiff legs

W:    Thalkirchen for a change of scenery. Crimp block pickups without using the sore finger; shoulder & knee (p)rehab stuff in the weights room & half an hour stretching
    Bike 45 minutes

T:    Bike one hour, half an hour stretching

F:    Another Thalkirchen weights room session: fingers (bar one) and shoulders. An injured index finger turns out to be rather easier to train around than the more common ring finger; I can still lift fairly heavy (for me) with back three or middle two.
    Bike 45 minutes

S:    Bike one hour

S:    Hillwalking. Set off in the direction of the Alpspitze via ferrata, easy but a solid 2000 metres of vert from the valley. But there's still too much snow above 2000 metres, so I bailed at the conveniently situated lift station just below the start of the via ferrata. Still a solid 1300 metres on vert and a pleasant day out.

I'm erring on the side of caution with the finger until I know what's actually going on - have an orthopaedist appointment on the 20th. So my UK trip at the end of the month will just be a long weekend visiting family.

In reply to Derek Furze:

I've been severely told off by our current statter, so here is a two-week catch up.

Late April into May

A slightly frustrating no partners week mixed with some work commitments.  

Mon - Windgather bouldering.  It isn't brilliant, but did 18 including a couple of 6A.  Intend to go back to finish off some harder things in cooler conditions.  Lovely though.

Tues - work

Wed - Chose Wolf Edge.  This was a mistake despite going early, as it was really hot.  16 problems, but harder, slopy things were impossible.  Forgot chalk bag.  Lovely though.  Learnt some things.

Thurs -  Harpur Hill short session before heading to Bolton for a bit of theatre.  Enjoyable getting on a rope again.  Nothing special, but good to do a few things.  Nice in the shade.

Weekend mainly dancing.

May week

Front end of week mainly working.  Tuesday evening drive to Lakes.

Wed - Gimmer.  Wonderful conditions.  Mate wanted to do a route in the sun so did Remembrance (HVS 5a) as a first route.  Quite good though crux very mossy.  Got delayed on ab, so more time used than expected.  Dashed around to NW Face, but targets occupied so Detour (VS 4c) and Samaritan Corner (VS 4c) to finish.  Good day, but a bit below expectations.  Wrist okay, though one move tested it badly.

Thurs - lost vote so ended up at Runestone, which is not what I travel to the Lakes to do.  Decided that a mileage day would be of benefit so ten routes to 6a+.  Paranoid (6a+)probably the best, made interesting by missing a bolt at the top.  Despite frustration at choice of crag, I did enjoy the day.  Learnt that I need some stiffer shoes.  Drove home.

Fri - work

Weekend - dancing.

Reflections.  No training!  Don't know where the time has gone.  Got to face up to buying new shoes and heading out to explore options tomorrow.  This is usually a frustrating exercise in that nothing fits.  Slate would be miles easier with a stiffer shoe.  Happy that wrist isn't proving too problematical, but it is a nagging concern  Made a plan to go back to Gimmer for the target routes.  Enjoyed camping in a small tent again.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi Derek. Thanks for stats and observations again. The time and effort you have put into them has been beyond what we should all expect. Much appreciated. 

Training / aims:

Spring 2025 

Return to pre Xmas daily 78.something kg ✓

Possibly aim for 75kg in April onwards???

Keep to training programme and climbing through what will be a full on work year.

Spring / Summer 2025 climbing aims:

Winter climb when available ✓

Redpoint 7b (Straight Tach, Millside Scar)

Headpoint E6 6b (Exequy, Red Wall, Trowbarrow)

Onsighting harder mountain E2s (eg Equus ✓ Astra ✓ Tumbleweed Connection, Fast Burn)

*Maybe E3s (Cruel Sister, Paladin, Air on a Bow String) & E4s that suit me (One Step Beyond, Malice in Wonderland)

*Maybe Needle and Citadel (Shelterstone) in a day as Comici prep?

*Big Alpine rock route – 12 to 24hr cardio & climbing effort – Cassin / Comici? 

*Aspirational goals

Longer term climbing aims: 

Regularly have adventures in great places with good friends & family ✓

Continue Alpine route progression to complete more big classic alpine rock routes.

Continue British winter climbing ✓

Continue climbing Hard Rock type routes outside the Lakes.

Keep Head/Red Point grade in 7s ✓ and E5s

Onsight up to at least E2 & V (winter) each year. ✓

Improve while not getting injured 

M - 5.5.25 - 

W - 78.6kg

40min back & antag exercises

Climbing @ Hodge. 'Road to Malice in Wonderland 5'. Seconded Sky (6b+***) Led RP Hoof Hearted (7a**) Seconded The Cleaver Direct (6c**) Led OS Albert Digby (6c/+**)

T - 6.5.25 - 

W - 78.2kg

40min back & antag exercises

W - 7.5.25 -

W - 78.2kg

am - FB. 4x10sec FC on 10mm edge. 10. 10. 10. 10. 3x2 PUs +15kg. Good session 

pm - Climbing with eldest son @ Castle Rock. Led Gazebo Direct (HVS 5a***) seconded Via Media (S**) Great evening. 

T - 8.5.25 - 

W - 77.7kg

am - 40min back & antag exercises

pm - Kendal Wall training room power endurance. Warm up to V6  then then -

1. 7a+ (Malham board) into half 6b (back board)

2. 7a+ (MB) - half 6b (BB)

3. 7a+ (MB) - half 6b (BB)

4. 7a+ (MB) - half 6b (BB)

5. 7a+ (MB) - half 6b (BB) x

6. 7a+ (MB) - half 6b (BB) x

Failed on 6b on last two. Will live with that.

Weights B - 

Internal shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5 =

External shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5 =

B. Power pull up +0kg 5/5/5 on bar =

A. Bench press with bar 3x50/60/70kg PB

A. Deadlift  3x65/75/85 kg PB 

B. Bent over one arm row 3x30kg/30kg/30kg =

3x3 slow leg raises on bar =

F - 9.5.25 - 

W - 78.0kg

am - 40min back & antag exercises

pm - Nimrod (E1 5c***) on Dow Crag. An excellent evening. 

S - 10.5.25 - 

W - 77.7kg

am - 40min back & antag exercises

S - 11.5.25 - 

W - ?

am - 10min back exercises

Climbing @ High Crag. Led Dry Trim (E1 5b**) and The Philistine (E1 5b***) Seconded Samson / Close Shave combo (E1 5b**) and Gethsemane (E1 5b**)

Reflections - 

Weight - Ok. Keep chipping away. Generally lightest I've been for a while, and (all things being relative!) a little more muscular. 

Routes -

I had been on Hoof Hearted about a month ago so it wasn't onsight, but it certainly wasn't a well rehearsed RP either. (Took some time and a certain amount of freestyling to get up) so pleased with that. Also please with Albert Digby OS. Time to get on Malice in Wonderland, will just need to pick a cooler evening. 

Great to see my son make a very competent job of the gear and belay on Via Media, and introduce him to a crag he loved. 

It took Dom driving up from the deepest darkest South to remind me that you can climb on mountain crags on an evening if you crack on. I have done Nimrod before, but I got to lead the crux pitch this time which was great.

The Philistine. It felt good to get this done having been too intimidated to try it a couple of years ago. I don't really agree with grade creep but I set off up this expecting E2 5b because of it's reputation, and this strategy was a good thing. 

General - Work is ramping up so I do feel (almost physically) that I've got a little less space in my head for pushing it climbing one way or another every time I go out. I feel almost a betrayal saying it, but I've been climbing a lot (almost every opportunity for 11 weeks) and perhaps need to take my foot off the gas a little. So, with the Alps trip coming up I'm going to make an effort to put a little more fell running back into the week alongside the climbing and not stress about some easier (in terms of grade) days out. This should tie up as with certain weekend commitments coming up, and a week on Mull with non climbers, there will be a little less opportunity in the next month or so.

In reply to Derek Furze:

I wasn’t aware top roping was much of a thing. I know about Suicide Wall bit assumed most things prior to that were climbed ground up with the odd bit of aid. Nonetheless my admiration is undimmed.  

Apart from one route I’ve had no problem with the bolts but I know some of the more esoteric routes have been more recently bolted. 

M: Rest

T: Three goes on Perfect Timing at Tramstation including an initial stick clip. Spent most of the time working a new sequence for the easier top half as there holds appear to have broken since I last went on it. Bit surprised as they were all solid. 

W: Day off so I really should have done something but I felt pretty knackered. Later in the week Fi diagnosed I have shingles which may explain my lassitude. 

T: Last minute call for a quick Mayfair wall hit. Thought I’d get some mileage in but only managed three top ropes including having to dog the hell out of Axle Attack which was disappointing but was reminded what a good route this is, genuine three stars. 

F: I’ve been thinking about taking a look at Pretty Girls Make Graves for ages so that’s what I did. Had one ab down the top section before moving the rope to look at the bottom. Didn’t pull on the top half as it looked painful for my swollen finger joints. Pulled on the bottom (crux) and it looks tricky but do able with effort. Will go back. 

S: Very short day with Tom which suited us both. Finally managed to remove something from the unfinished business list rather than adding to it by doing Do Walls Have Ears (7a+), another really good route which feels hard until everything clicks at which point it feels easy. 

S: Active rest watching people kayaking on Afon Tryweryn. Not tempted to switch sports!

This week I’ll see how my illness pans out but I doubt it’ll get worse. I’ve got nothing planned for Wednesday if anyone is looking for a partner in north Wales. 

In reply to Tyler:

Upper or lower Tryweryn? 

The bit around the car parking where the white water ratlfting runs has some tricky bits, but the lower section is a lovely grade II paddle (with a little spicy drop you can portage).

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. 

Unfortunately I can't take over stats at the moment. You have been doing a brilliant job of it and you obviously put a huge amount of effort in. Do not feel guilty about doing a much shorter job of it for the next couple of weeks if you need to, focus on yourself until you hand it over.

My updated goals:

- to make the most of my half-days out (twice a month weather-permitting)

- do some good climbing in Wales on holiday at Whit half term

- fingerboard training twice a week (new goal to be able to train at bodyweight +25kg for 10 s hangs)

- gradually improve my right elbow to the point that I can do weighted pull up training

- keep up the current diet, which has gone well so far (~1900 kcal per day + exercise, LTG is back down to ~75kg from a starting weight of about 84.5kg on 13/04)

This week:

M: another trip to Sheep Pen for Kingdom Of Rain (f7A). After some initial disappointment struggling to get established on the undercut I realised it was possible to try the top by stepping in from a rock to the side, and by doing that I found that the lip was actually a better hold than expected and the top out not too bad. That knowledge gave me some extra oomph and a couple of attempts later I did the whole problem from the ground. I was happy as it's a really good problem and the first time for nearly 3 years that I've done a problem over multiple sessions from home. After that I spent a while trying Gnasher (7A+) and got very close to doing the first move which I think is the crux, but the pocket you go for is really painful and I didn't hold it. Then I spent half an hour on the link of Toe Dragon in to Dog Shooter (7A+). I worked out a sequence but only had time for one attempt from the start, and came up a couple of moves short. It would go with some more time. Pleased to feel like both 7A+s were very much feasible. My elbow was hurting quite a bit by the end, working this last problem didn't really do it any good.

T: rest/elbow rehab (decided to cancel planned fingerboard session).

W: rest/elbow rehab

T: had a long day away with work so took it as another rest day.

F: 5x5 pull-ups in the morning. Bodyweight in evening 80.3 kg.

S: morning session at the Climbing Hangar while son No. 1 was at Rock Club. One of those sessions where you try lots of stuff and do none of it. But it was a decent workout and my elbow seemed fine.

S: fingerboard in evening. 4x10 second hangs with +20kg. 1 with +22kg, I managed about 9 seconds so not quite there yet. Also did some pull-ups. Bodyweight in evening 80.5kg.

A really good Monday morning at Sheep Pen but I definitely had a bit of an elbow problem so decided to just focus on rehab and not too much else for a few days after that. Fortunately it has been ok over the weekend. In hindsight, caused by climbing without enough of a warm up two days on, and not stopping when I should have on two occasions. I need to stay vigilant.

I had a couple of small diet lapses in the week but it's mostly still going well. I'm pleased with the weight loss progress so far, it's better than I expected.

We are staying in Nant Gwynant at half term and I'm hoping to get lots of bouldering done if the weather remains good. I'll probably train this week and up to the following Tuesday, then have a rest for the last few days before we go. I doubt I'll have opportunity to get outside again before that.

Si

In reply to Derek Furze: Derek, injuries are hard and frustrating but they almost always get sorted out, and often people come back stronger. At least you're keeping up a very solid base. Do you have a proper rehab program for your wrist? 

Thanks for your incredible stats stint. Tom and I were discussing how anyone could follow you. We concluded that the next person ought to take a different approach with perhaps a single line per person. We then extrapolated that to a single word, and the that was refined to a single number - with the twist that the statter wouldn't let on wether 2 or 9 was a good week!

MTG - (1-4 months) – Brachiation Dance (7b+)

LTG – 15 grade 7 sport routes (10/15) with 6 at 7a+ or above (2/6)

Mon – Tues - Nothing

Wednesday – Rhoscolyn with Tom. Managed to get a full free day off and a chance to return to my happy place. Started with Cocaine (E2 5b) which felt slightly nervy with less than perfect gear in the first half. Tom then cruised The Savage Sunbird (E2 5b) emptying his whole rack and half of mine ensuring he didn’t leave a placement unfilled After a while considering bottling it, as I felt very tired, I girded my loins and did The Viper (E4 5c). I’d done it before in 1998. This time it proved easier than expected with lots of great gear. Still some growls were required. Finished off a perfect day by introducing Tom to Sea Shanty Cafe ice cream.

Thursday – Saturday -Nothing.

Sunday – Very early start to drive to North Wales and still get home to Sheffield for evening social. I’ve been having FOMO about this good weather in the mountains so it was great to visit Ogwen and The Gribin Facet. Did Trouble with Lichen (E2 5b) in one pitch to start (not too licheny) and then Synapse (E3 5c) (very licheny). These were in our guide at E1 and E2 and felt ‘solid’ at those grades. However it turns out they’ve both gone up a grade. Zippy then persuaded me to try a no star 9m steep hairline crack given E3 but looking like E5. I battled to 2/3rds height on Peglegs (E3 5c) before taking a decent lob, and then never got higher. Zippy top roped it finding it not E3 with a finish that was blind and unobvious with almost no more gear. Glad I ran away. Biggest regret was not introducing myself to the boulderers below the crag, one of whom I had suspicions was Ross, but we were rushing to get down in time.

Reflection - Managed to get two days away, so took the opportunity for some Welsh trad. It had been 7 weeks since I’d done anything but sport and bouldering so I was intrigued how my mind would hold up. I’m glad to say it’s still in place and I felt strong in situations where previously I’d have got very pumped.

In reply to ExBristolian:

Shit, I didn’t give the impression I actually went paddling did I? We were just walk along the bank, mainly upper there were a lot of trees overhanging the river just down from there so looked pretty treacherous.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Good morning everyone, another weekend of nice weather. Even the Welsh bog that I had to cross didn't get my feet too wet - impressive considering I was in knackered holey trainers!

That Durutti wall is quite a nice one! I think locals might have been doing eliminates on it for years, it's just the right sort of size, littered with holds, and a good landing.

Nope, they're all feeling quite good. The occasional creakiness when warming up, but that's about it.

A good week from me. Two good indoor sessions (dropped on OAPU sesh, boohoo!), and a good, albeit fruitless and scorching, session in Ogwen below a particularly handsome trad climber who I didn't get the name of.

Last Week:

Avg weight 77.1kg.

M - Rest.

T - Bouldered for about 30m then felt really sleepy and lethargic. Perhaps poor dietary choices (having ice cream instead of proper lunch) and mental drainage (which may have influenced the ice cream) earlier in the day? Decided to stop being pathetic and at least have a crack at my regimented training, worse case I can sack it off later. 4x2 OAPUs with 13kg assist, 5x5s 13mm F3HC. Didn't expect to get to 13kg, quite pleased.

W - Restful bowling.

T - 1hr bouldering, sucked into trying a well hard boulder with a very tricky ending: stretching a foot a great distance to a shallow volume, difficult when tired! Will try again next time. 5x5s 13mm F3HC, but skipped the OAPUs due to time constraints and trying hard earlier.

F - A nice 3 mile walk in the sun to work up an appetite before big dinner!

S - Rest.

S - AM 1hr skateboarding (low speed wobbling), then PM The Punk SS (V9). Terrible choice conditions-wise: full sun, sheltered from the easterlies! Had a surprisingly good session though, almost caught the crux twice from the deck, I think I could improve the left foot placement but I might not have had to think too much about it if it was 5⁰C...

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing/rehab.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing/rehab.

F - Rest.

S, S - Climbing.

Goals:

Ingrain a "rehab first" approach to climbing sessions.

Rehab right index finger. Considering this complete, it was fine cranking on The Punk pocket, and I haven't really even it much though in ages...

One arm pull-up.

Improve lower body mobility.

Louisville Lip.

The Punk SDS.

Rigpa.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Very much a viral week. I might have overdone it on BHM and made it inevitable that I caught the next nursery bug? I'm hoping to get out later this week, but it's contingent on my wife recovering from the lurgy enough to do an evening of solo parenting.

Week 19

BHM – Lunchtime ride; 32km 74min with lots of cross/gravel sectors. Collected another KOM – blasting along the new bridleway diversion that Wayne Rooney implemented to avoid having the proles riding through his grounds! After lunch, chased Squigg on her bike for 2km then did some max-hangs whilst viral wife and 2y.o. snoozed. Warm-up hangs, then 3x 10s F2 BW+41kg 3x M2 BW+36kg. 4x 6mm 7s BW+8kg.

T – Back and shoulders achy from CX ride and max-hangs the day before. Nothing.

W – Nothing, feeling a bit “off” after work but managed some DIY-club (gloss painting our sole wooden window frame on the garage/boardroom).

T – Viral. Nasty headache.

F – Still lurgied.

S – Post-viral family outing.

S – Recovering. Gardening & DIY clubs. 2 rounds of F2,M2,B2,F3 BW repeaters.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, I think there might have to be some stepping stones between the likes of Right Eliminate/Winking Crack and Rays roof!

Mon. Walk with the kids; Bleaklow Head, Higher Shelf Stones and the aircraft wreck.

Tues. Trad at Millstone. Headpointed White Wall (E5 6b).  Found the crux quite hard, took two tie ins to work it out and even once I knew what to do I still had to pull really hard.  Definitely above my OS or GU abilities and dropping a rope down was the right decision even though its safe.  Those old boys were pretty good back in the day!

Wed. 5km run with the boy.  Steady pace today, he was tired after a school trip.

Thurs. rest

Fri. Nimrod (E1 5c) after work with Exile which was very chill.  Nice to climb with a new fitclubber.  I think we are basically a climbing club now, in all but name.

Sat.  16km walk with 1500m vert with 3 friends.  We scattered a bit of my mates late Dad at the top of Lingmell, Scafell Pike, Great End and Gable.  Some of the more desk bound found it hard and we were out a long time.  However, they were able to put us whippets to shame once in their natural habitat of the pub!  An emotional day all in though.

Sun. A mixture of either tired legs or sore heads lead to a slow cafe based breakfast start and the bravado chat about climbing on Scafell from earlier in the week was quickly downgraded to the lovely Bell Stand - 10mins from the road.  It was roasting by the time we got there so I was glad there was a bit of a breeze.  I did a VS to warm up then Anniversary Waltz (E2 5c) which I found very steady, The Puzzle Book (E2 5c) which had a couple of stiff pulls on it but great climbing and Sideslip (E2 5c) which I thought was by far the hardest of the three with insecure moves and a few bits of fairly uninspiring gear in places.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek and apologies for my absence.   A few days work in London confused things.

Week - 946

No Climbing!   

Mon - A very early start had me in London for 7:30.   As the day progressed the after effects of the Duddon Dash made themselves known.

Tues - London and very stiff

Weds - London but manage to just make it back in time for the Chain Gang to Matlock - 56km 680m.  A few days working in London and too much alcohol made it a real struggle.  Finally cleared up the stiff legs though.

Thurs - Buxworth 5 miler.   Felt tough

Fri - Nothing, stiff legs again.

Sat - Early morning cycling - 91km 1,873m

Sun - Mountain biking with my lad - 21km 600m

Week - 947

A much better week for climbing!

Bank Holiday - Stanage - 6 routes

Tues - Cycled to work in Sheffield - 29km 360m there and 28km 585m back.   The problem of living in Tidza is there is always an extra hill on the way home.

Wed - Chaingang - 56km 680m.  Only 4 people out so bigger turns but felt good.

Thurs - Rest day

Fri - Stanage again - 4 routes highlight being Cave Arete.   Very hot but keen to maximise the grit before the midgies arrive.

Sat - Half a ride with the Saturday morning crew to Belper and then cycled alone to the Derbyshire Track Champs at Mansfield  82km 863m to watch my daughter.

Sun - Mountain Biking 24km 661m, and then evening climbing at Ramshaw.  Success on the Crank after failing to even get off the floor when I tried it a few years ago!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek and totally empathise with your position. Your stats have been exemplary and must take some serious time and effort. Much appreciated.

Sadly (for me) Tom realised he had a much more important appointment that day and selfishly decided spending time with his partner was more important than a day in the quarries.

M - Nothing

T - Esk Buttress Trespasser Groove (E1 5a). Grand day out. Very traddy. Loved it. 

W - Nothing

T - 1/2 hr autobelays at Kentmere

F - Kentmere. Classic warm up becoming the project for the day scenes with a tick of Common Trolls (f6C). The hole will have to wait until next week. 

S - 1/2 hr autobelays at Big Depot

S - Family stuff

No gym as realised we had a big day on Tuesday and I was knackered after it. 

No climbing on Sunday but that's OK. I had a lovely day with my son and daughter and it's not as if I've not been getting out much.

This next week will be bouldering tomorrow, kilnsey on Friday and probably trad on Sunday. 

Long may the weather continue!

I am feeling a slight urge to push on with trad. Maybe have a day off the cracks and do something I am a bit more comfortable with. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Rock and run have a great service where you book an hour with a staff member. They have every shoe available in the UK I believe.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

You obviously didn't drift off onto the E5 then and I'm glad i didn't try Sideslip.

Guidebooks can be unhelpful at times. I was looking for complexity with Anniversary Waltz and it's not when you do it right. That and Tom's comment on the crux being overcoming the guidebook description make me wonder how many routes I've not got on because of what  the guidebook says. But then sometimes they're right...... And I am very appreciative of the work that goes into them.

In reply to biscuit:

The E5 looks great, if I'd have had my skyhooks with me I'd have been tempted to have a go but I didn't and it wasn't really the vibe of the day anyway. The voting on sideslip suggests it's just me that thought it was hard although there are a few comments from people that also found it tough.

In reply to biscuit:

If it’s any consolation, you have contributed to a happy marriage remaining that way!

In reply to biscuit:

And don’t get me started on the Rockfax ‘fluttery heart’ and ‘pumpy’ symbols! The number of routes I’ve put off, only to find that they are much easier than advertised!

In reply to AlanLittle:

Definitely a smart decision. Always remember that the rock is not going anywhere so take the time that the need to recover. I hope the diagnosis won't be too bad and get well soon!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The E5 has also been filed away for future reference for me - and I have skyhooks too so if you ever fancy it give me a shout. I figure that seeing as I've already done the crux why not?

In reply to Tom Green:

Seconded!

In reply to Derek Furze:

I am happy to take over starting June, though it will be very challenging after your brilliant stint!

In reply to biscuit:

We'll get it on the list for the alternate Wednesday crush fest from September. I need to make the most of every one of them to make the salary sacrifice worth it!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Back on the training wagon!  A bit of a shock to a tired system, but he got through my plan!

In reply to Randy:

Thanks Randy for sticking your head above the parapet!  You will bring a lot more training expertise than I could ever deliver!  You might want to set a finishing date before you start?

As I have often remarked, I just do what works for me.  Over the years there have been a lot of different approaches and they all seem to have kept things going perfectly well.  I was amazed to see that in the early days, the starter didn't respond to individuals, but just made a few general comments or highlights!

I get the impression that a few of the group are forming a disorderly queue, so there will likely be someone willing to pick up when you are done 🙂

In reply to biscuit:

Cheers.  I actually had a fairly productive hour in outside yesterday and am pretty close to a decision.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Weight - 14st
STG - 6b

MTG - 6c - 14/100 routes/problems this year

LTG - Western Front Direct (7a) at Navigation Quarry

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest
T - 12.1km 390m asc - MTB ride
W - Wandering round a forest, bit of climbing
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 49k + 1800m asc - BBMC Route A
S - Rest

KMs - 49k

I probably agree with your mate about cycling a bit.  It's probably not as good for the steady CV work that running gives.  Especially as I'm going out on short rides.  But I do think that working the different muscles is good from building up general strength in your legs.  I'm not much of a road rider, so that's probably different.  Still it's great fun and I'm sure it's good fitness in general.

Elbow rehab has been passable this week.  Done a few sessions, but not recorded them.  I've moved up to higher weight and less reps.  I'm hoping this will have the right effect.  I could really do with it getting sorted soon.

The Big Black Mountains Challenge was great.  10h and 19m.  Ended up meeting a club mate and walking around with another chap we met on the way.  Lovely time having a great chat.  I love you have great random convos with people on stuff like this.  There was also free icecream put on by Trekkit ( https://www.trekitt.co.uk/ ) who sponsor the event.  It's basically the fundraising event that keeps Longtown MRT going (https://www.longtownmrt.org.uk/) throughout the year.

Spent some time on Wednesday wandering around a forest failing to find specific routes.  Did a great VS and a so-so Sev.  Well I didn't lead them, I just failed to second them.  I really need to calm my climbing down a bit and look at my footwork.  I was reading John Kettle's book the other day and I need to get back to my good and delicate footwork, as it's just not there at the moment.

Next week should be good.  Got Dyfi Bike park at the end of the week.  Bit of mid-week evening sport climbing.  Hope to get out bouldering at some point with a bit of luck.  Need to keep pushing those route numbers up as 100 is looking a long way away at this rate.  It's May and I'm only on 14.  I guess if I'd made Pembroke when I should have done, I'd be on 20ish.

In reply to Derek Furze:

I went to the physio today. I've got a clear set of rehab exercises to do, some helpful guidance in terms of things I can and shouldn't do climbing wise, and I guess generally it gives me the certainty of a route forwards.

So that's positive - last week I felt very much in limbo and so didn't really do anything climbing wise.

Things I did do last week were a bunch of brisk walking chasing the kids on their bike round the park - about 40 minutes worth - and a walk around Swanage with the family - about 7km.

Yes, seizing the moments of perfect Scottish conditions does require turning up through a lot of imperfect ones!

I don't think it's in any of the big coffee table books, no. But I was introduced to the South West Climbs (the original edition) ticklist, which has given some focus to some of my perma-injured trad bumblings the last few years given it has the sort of lower/mid grade slant that fits. I've now done 30% of it [edit: 30% Led or Alt Led plus more seconded], with a bunch more low hanging fruit still to go. But unsurprisingly I suppose given Littlejohn's interest in the area it includes a reasonable amount from South Devon, and there's a few routes at Chudleigh in particular that I've not done yet.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/south_west_climbs_-_pat_little...

There are also a couple of Chudleigh routes in the hundred greatest limestone climbs book that Ally has mentioned in the past.

In reply to Tyler:

Wrist X-ray on Wednesday, otherwise I would have offered.  Hope you've found someone anyway.  Sorry for slow response.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi Derek,

back from down under, safe & sound…trip was very good, quite relaxed, the mother visits manageable – the latter in part thanks to being able to keep a bit of training going: 4 gym visits with treadmill plods up to 40 minutes and weights, 6 Pilates  classes, really helpful with slight posture adjustments, and swimming in my favourite seawater  pool…hadn’t done so in 13 years…water temp was still 22° degrees…beach was mostly closed because of dangerous currents, so only once in the surf…

Training last week went as follows:
Mon – Wed: arrival, sleep, jetlag…I’d conveniently forgotten what a slog the flight back is…
Thu: wall, Thalkirchen, 12 autobelay routes up to 6b, short stint on the 15° wall, retrying the self-defined boulders. Session really helped to shrug off the heaviness in the jetlagged limbs.
Fri: light weights & stretching
Sat: wall, Thalkirchen, partner had to cancel last minute, so much like Thu, 14 autobelay routes up to 6b+, then tried out a few exercises in the weights room where Alan often goes…found a few things I could do – have a feeling that I should be working my back more – focus on lats…
Sun: light weights & stretching

Thanks for noting my absence…and thanks for your stint…your capacity to engage with all of us is astounding. I greatly appreciate it – no matter what psycho-related stuff I was posting here you always had encouraging words.

Good week to all.

In reply to Small Step:

Welcome back!  Good to hear that you are more or less unscathed!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Very late this week, sorry.

Anyway, we're currently at the club cottage in North Wales, after deciding against Scotland.

Last week was poor. Did all my lymphatics every day, twists etc and also walked at least 5 miles every day across fields with the dog. Which made the legs a bit upset.

Mon - Family

Tue - Felt really dizzy, like fall over dizzy, so no pilates.

Wed - Didn't go to work again. Felt really off 

Thu - nowt

Fri - Family

Sat - Family

Sun - Stupid busy working, then packed the van, including the trad rack I haven't used in years... just in case.

A poor week but my legs felt worked - Jeff the Vizla is always demanding when it comes to walks. I had hoped to get a swim and a sauna in most days but was either feeling too rough or too busy.

Currently in Wales enjoying the spring sunshine and wishing we had a month here. Oh well 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek.

Probably more to with with the climber/punter than the route itself! Steep bulge straight of the floor and just a few sustained moves to a good rest. Just had terrible flash pump. Bit gutted but hey ho. 

- perhaps a power-endurance thing?  .... so it will often surprise us when it hits?  

It was certainly a surprise! Definitely a weaker area for me. You've reminded me that I never posted to the WhatsApp about warming up... 

Pagan is almost next to it isn't it?

Just a couple of routes to the right (looking in). This was also a very hard start involving some horizontal craziness but felt OK with warmer arms. Dislodges a massive blocked from deep in the cleft by some heel hooking madness! Wild moves for E1!

I'll echo what everyone else has said Derek in saying thank you for week on week detailed and motivational feedback that always triggers some thinking. Was always good reading FC each week from the side lines but been great to join at the start of the year. Much appreciated. 

Massive thanks to 'Stark Slimline Randy' for stepping up to take the helm. 

w/c 05.05.2025

Monday

Rhoscolyn on the bank holiday to finish a nice weekend. Started with a lead Fan Fare (HVS 4c), followed a couple of really good VS's on the black slab across the bay then finished on Tetrion (E1 5a). A good finish to the day. 

Tuesday

Bamford Edge. Perhaps I knew there was a change of FC leader coming by starting on Randy's Wall (HVS 5a). Few solos then followed my mate up Gunpowder Crack (VS 5b) which was not what my arms required on day 5!

Wednesday

Rest

Thursday

AM - hip and shoulder mobility

PM - Max hangs 4x10sec @15kg, 4x10 push ups. 

Friday

Drove to Eskdale late afternoon

Saturday

Second FC ascent of the week of the excellent Trespasser Groove (E1 5a). I gave full disclosure to my mate about Andy's feedback on the WhatsApp so he could make an informed choice! Nice dip to finish a great day.

Sunday

Brantrake Crags. A couple of great routes to start on the main slab, following Central Crack (VS 5a) and leading the excellent Right-hand Crack (HVS 5b). Couple of solos and a couple of other routes on the upper crag.

Another week light on training but four days outside withy good variety across sea-cliffs, mountains, grit and valley granite. 

Hope everyone's having a great week.. Enjoy your weekend. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

That sounds like a good idea . I am planning to take care of the stats till end of September.

In reply to Randy:

Excellent!  You will be able to cover your own send of Slimline!