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Auto belays have simplified route climbing, but safe use of them relies on us giving our full attention.  © The Climbing Academy

Article When You Forget to Attach to the Autobelay: No-Clip Falls

A new video released by The Climbing Academy (TCA) Glasgow highlights a worrying trend in indoor climbing accidents: people are forgetting to clip into the auto belay tape and are effectively soloing auto belay lines. The more fortunate have realised their mistake and downclimbed, while others have miraculously been spared of serious consequences by a low fall. In a few cases globally, people have fallen to their death.

Crag Notes: Shadowplay  © Andy Moles

Crag Notes: Shadowplay

Katie Ives, Editor-in-Chief of Alpinist magazine.  © Chris Weidner
Katie Ives, Editor-in-Chief of Alpinist magazine.  © Chris Weidner

Reading Between the Lines - Katie Ives

In this series of interviews, prominent climbing writers share their reading habits between—or even during—routes and expeditions, focusing not only on the growing realm of mountain literature, but also on books of other genres that have informed...

Dave MacLeod on the first ascent of Making a Splash E7  © Dark Sky Media
Dave MacLeod on the first ascent of Making a Splash E7  © Dark Sky Media

Interview Undiscovered: Dave MacLeod on New-Routing in Scotland

Open any Scottish guidebook and one name will be credited with some of the hardest lines, typically in hard-to-get-to corners of Scotland, far off the radar of other new-routers. Dave MacLeod is synonymous with Scottish first ascents...

Extreme Basecamp scenes  © KMF
Extreme Basecamp scenes  © KMF

10 People You'll Meet...At Kendal Mountain Festival 2019

Kendal Mountain Festival is on the horizon and another exciting line-up of films, events and...

'Fashions fade, style is eternal.' - Yves Saint Laurent.  © Eddie Gianelloni
'Fashions fade, style is eternal.' - Yves Saint Laurent.  © Eddie Gianelloni

The Height of Fashion - Why Designers are Hyped about Climbing

Natalie Berry examines the increasing emergence of climbing-related clothing and accessories in...

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.  © Marc Langley
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.  © Marc Langley

Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport - A Cautionary Tale

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk writes openly about her recent diagnosis of Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport...


Steve on Malovista pitch 4.  © Pat Littlejohn

Trad Climbing on Mallorca

Mallorca is an island with high limestone mountains and massive sea cliffs. Traditional climbing on Mallorca goes back a very long way. It mostly took place in the mountains, which are like the Eastern Alps on a smaller scale, but unlike the Al...

Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)  © Nikki Clayton
Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)  © Nikki Clayton

Crag Notes: An Eve on Strange Midland Stones (1998 – 2019)

In Crag Notes this month, Mark Goodwin looks at one of Britain's least likely rock pastures: Leicestershire. Beacon Hill sprouts from from a hilltop in an otherwise flat, rural and distinctly un-rocky county. It's vista above the...

Crag Notes - A Grey Seals Memory  © Nick Bullock
Crag Notes - A Grey Seals Memory  © Nick Bullock

Crag Notes: A Grey Seal's Memory

In this month's Crag Note Nick Bullock takes time to reacquaint himself with North Stack Gogarth, a crag he's shared an intimate connection with for over 20 years.

Cities, seas and sit starts.  © Simon Slater
Cities, seas and sit starts.  © Simon Slater

Helsinki Bouldering

Pete Edwards shares the beta on urban bouldering spots in and around Helsinki, Finland... Climbing on a city break these...

Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1.  © JSTaylor
Lenin Peak, North Face: Standard route ascends middle of glacier then trends right and goes on to right ridge line via Camp 1.  © JSTaylor

Lenin Peak 7,134m - The World's easiest Seven Thousander?

Lenin Peak, which sits on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, is widely cited as the...

Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH
Anyone keen for Albarracin now? ;o)  © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Albarracin: Spanish Sandstone Bouldering

Albarracin is an extremely popular bouldering destination in eastern Spain. Easily accessible, abundant in low...

Oli Grounsell and Nathan Lee making the most of the fantastic evening light  © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
Oli Grounsell and Nathan Lee making the most of the fantastic evening light  © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

The Five Best E6 Routes in the UK and Ireland?

Back in 2014 we published a series of articles in/around the five best routes of each grade; however, for...


Tess tethered at Jerry's Roof, Llanberis Pass.  © Pete Edwards

Who Let the Dogs Out: How to be a Responsible Crag Dog Owner

I used to have a theory in the first few years of my climbing career: if you want to climb hard,...

Traverses can be a valuable tool for spotting basic footwork or body position errors, while keeping things fun.  © Ari Schneider
Traverses can be a valuable tool for spotting basic footwork or body position errors, while keeping things fun.  © Ari Schneider

Coaching Kids - 7 ways 7 Year Olds Learn to Climb

Climber and coach Ari Schneider shares some tips and fun exercises to keep young children engaged in climbing...

To avoid locking off on overhanging walls, practice twisting in (either by stepping through and using your outside edge, or doi  © Nick Brown - UKC
To avoid locking off on overhanging walls, practice twisting in (either by stepping through and using your outside edge, or doi  © Nick Brown - UKC

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Posture in Climbing

Climbers surely have enough to think about without adding posture to the mix! With the ever-present concerns of reading sequences, dealing with the pump and avoiding falling off, it's no surprise that posture tends to get thrown to the bottom of the priority list, and...

Tim Neill on Directes des Capucines  © Calum Muskett
Tim Neill on Directes des Capucines  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 4 - Training and Preparation for High-Altitude

In the final part of our four-part series on acclimatisation, Jamie Macdonald (high altitude physiologist at Bangor University) and Calum Muskett (professional climber and mountaineering instructor),...

A typical visit to a sport crag.  © Adam Perrett
A typical visit to a sport crag.  © Adam Perrett

Sport Climbing 10 Things to Do at a Sport Crag

Compared with Himalayan, Alpine or even trad climbing, sport climbing should be a relatively safe affair. But the very fact that it should be relatively safe means that many people don't take it as seriously as they need to. And therein lies the potential...

Correct body position for side-pulls.  © Nick Brown

Neil Gresham Technique and Training Using Undercuts and Sidepulls

Tim enjoying big boot top rope action on Rap.  © Misha Nepogodiev

British Mountain Guide British Mountain Guide Training Scheme Entrance Exams

The classic Entrèves traverse. Despite the ease of access, climbers have been evacuated by helicopter with cases of HAPE.  © Calum Muskett

altitude and acclimatisation High Altitude and Acclimatisation Part 3 - Can we fast-track Acclimatisation?

Fulmar  © Brian

birds How to Identify Common Seabirds


Paul Cox on Right Eliminate, Curbar  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Curbar

Marmot Photography Awards 2018  © UKC

Photo Awards Marmot Photography Awards 2018

Jack Lawdedge on Trail of Dreams E4 6A  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Rhoscolyn

James Ibbertson on The Wall of Horrors, Almscliff  © Mike Hutton

The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Almscliff


El Portrero Chico  © Jacob Roman

El Potrero Chico - Multi-pitch Sport Climbing in Mexico

'The idea of going to El Potrero Chico, Mexico was agreed on. I got in touch with Peter to say I was going to be in North America between February and March. Wanting sunshine and multi-pitch sport climbing El Portrero kept coming up in discussions...

Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach
Big exposure on Riso Patron Sur.  © Silvan Schüpbach

Expedition Riso Patron Sur

In February/March 2018, Matteo Della Bordella (ITA) and Silvan Schüpbach (SUI) climbed the Riso Patron Sur in Chile, establishing King Kong (900m, M7+, 90°). They sent in the following report.

Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner
Benno on pitch 9 of Alexandra Supernova.  © Benno Wagner

New Multi-Pitch in Kyrgyzstan - Alexandra Supernova

"Kyrgyzstan! Wow! Where is that? Can you climb there?" Almost everyone asks me this whenever I start to tell the story of my last summer-holiday. "Yes, you can!" Kyrgyzstan is the home of the Pamir-Alai-Mountains. There are many...

The team on the summit  © GMHM
The team on the summit  © GMHM

New French Route on Baffin Island

In May, a team from the Chamonix-based GMHM (the French mountain military) opened a new route on Baffin Island, Canada....

Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor
Ciaran on approach  © John Proctor

Jiptik Valley 2016

In July of this year, Robert Taylor, John Proctor, Ciaran Mullan and Phil Dawson headed to the Jiptik valley in Southeast Kyrgyzstan....

Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook
Polar Daze on Mount Hannes  © Paul Seabrook

Greenland - New Peaks, New Routes

Can I commit to a trip to Greenland this summer? Can I commit quickly? Can I commit now!? A personal account of...

Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure
Delicate granite slab climbing on The Bad Man of Bodie  © Wil Treasure

The Bad Man from Bodie - Greenland New Routing

Wil Treasure and Duncan Barrack share a trip report from Greenland's Tasermiut Fjord, where they...


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