A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html also this - https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGfCg7DbkK/?igshid=4a1o55jwpus2
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
And for those looking for more theoretical background, there's a useful subject index of published research studies on the Beta Angel project. Not sure how actively maintained if is though. https://beta-angel.com/research/research-inventory/
AJM - "whether I can get a regular wall session going with miniAJM" - when I used to go to the bouldering wall with my son it felt like I wasn't getting a whole lot done / couldn't really project anything hard. But looking back over my training logs it seems like that was actually my period of maximum progress. Maybe a large volume of moderate bouldering is the secret of success. How did the first week of school go?
Ally Smith - will be interested to hear how the autumn Ormes projecting goes.
biscuit - any further pre-holiday progress on the current proj? And/or successful pre-holiday taper? If these two things are in any way compatible?
Liam P - hope the limping about on crutches is going reasonably ok?
planetmarshall - shame about not getting on Beast, great route. I recall finding Sergeyenna desperate for the grade (a long time ago)
Ross Barker - as Si already said, an impressively active week. Impressively diverse venues too.
Si dH - "found a way to set up my portable fingerboard to hang from my mum's staircase in a way she was happy with" - when I was (much!) younger our outhouse had a flat concrete roof about four inches thick. My mum was concerned that me doing pull-ups on it was going to cause it to flip over on top of me. Somehow it never did. Good news on the finger.
Somerset swede basher - good effort on the 7C, hope the return to work wasn't too traumatic. Is the 8a accessible (distance & conditions) as an autumn project?
Steve Claw - how's the Lundy preparation going?
the sheep - successful tri day, excellent. I won't ask you about the next set of goals for another week or two.
Tom Green - first 7a is huge, excellent Fit Club team effort.
Tyler - Gordale project sounds promising, what are Autumn conditions typically like there?
AlanLittle - short sharp PE challenges in the Frankenjura (and Boulderwelt!) are all very well, but sooner or later you're going to need some aerocap for Leonidio
STG: Frankenjura: Edelsteine return match. Any or all of Opal, Türkis, Diamentenfieber - rain stopped play
STG: Summer 2021: Fill out my couple-of-goes pyramid around the 6c-ish level before moving back onto harder projects. Fail, see below
MTG: Autumn 2021 sport trip. Ditch the lockdown weightbelt (3 to 5 kgs) beforehand and get fit
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658
M: Rest day. Some light stretching before bed
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Working too late to make my normal Tuesday evening routes session, so put a short session in on my new PE circuit project. Repeated last week's longest link and got a new link through the technical crux: good.
W: Half an hour shoulder mobility/prehab
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Bouldering session, keeping it short/light just in case the weather on Saturday turns out better than forecast.
S: Frankenjura. Drove hopefully to the Edelsteine in the morning with the intention of settling some of last week's scores, only to find that this notoriously slow drying crag was still wet & dismal from rain overnight. Bailed to the Hetzendorfer Wand, Plan B. Home to two excellent looking 6c's that would have fitted ideally in couple-of-goes STG plan. So I ignored those and instead got suckered into the very cool looking X-Wing Fighter (VIII), a thirty degree overhanging arete that my mate onsighted. Totally his style. Totally not my style, so I was quite pleased to one-hang it on my second attempt. But also out of both time and beans for a third go on the day, so frustrated to walk away with yet another addition to the open projects list.
S: Frankenjura. Allersdorfer Wand, Catwalk (VIII), This is a one move wonder 7a that I tried a few years ago. Fancied another look at it but the footholds on the one move have since got really unpleasantly polished - lost interest, crossed permanently off the project/target list. Adjourned to the Zimmerbergwände, where I pottered desultorily on a few easier routes without any successes of note.
STG: Summer 2021: Fill out my couple-of-goes pyramid around the 6c-ish level before moving back onto harder projects.
Ha! This has been a complete failure, largely because I pretty much ignored it and let myself get sucked into projecting instead. In the last two months I have succeeded on exactly ONE of the routes I set out to do on any given day. I'm sure trying hard-for-me things won't do me any harm in the long run, but for the sake of my confidence and self respect I need to start actually gettting up something occasionally.
Pandemic and projecting, and the concomitant lack of mileage, have also completely killed my onsighting ability. The last time I onsighted anything harder than 6a+ was before the second lockdown, almost a year ago now. Need to get my finger out on that too.
M: evening - not a proper session but managed to fit in 3*5 one arm scap pull-ups with theraband assistance.
T: nothing - training plans totally kyboshed by general life and family stuff
W: evening - tried to do a 3/6/9 max hang session but had to cancel early to look after ill family again. Did manage to fit in my usual 3*30 second density hangs after my warm up.
T: morning - tried again to do a max hang session. Managed to do my warm-up, the usual density hangs and then three sets of 3/6/9 on a 27mm edge with bw +20kg (out of a planned 5 sets on two hold types.) Then got pulled in to an early short notice work meeting, grr. Finger was good again.
S: morning - 3*30 second density hangs then a board session. Did some easy problems and then a couple of 7As. This was my best board session since last November. I pulled quite hard and had no pain in the left ring finger DIP which was great (ironically I had felt it slightly during the density hangs, but then it went away.) I actually stopped slightly early because I felt something in another finger (my right middle)... don't think it'll be a problem after a short rest though.
S: sore throat coming on, so rest
A difficult week training-wise: family, work commitments and house problems took almost all my time. The new baby is due in less than a month now and my wife is mostly bed/sofa-ridden with rib pin so I'm having to do all the housework, both school runs etc as well as normal work. Plus our freezer broke. Her parents visited this week, which helped but created it's own set of jobs (I had to build a new bed for them on Tuesday evening). However, I had a good session on the board yesterday morning and the status of my finger seems far more positive. So on balance that's a good week.
Eek, that sounds like some tough circumstances. Keep on keeping on.
Thanks Alan! First week of school went fine. We missed one crucial fact in the reams of information presented to us, but we’ve got round it! He seems to have enjoyed himself so far.
When I go to the wall with him, I think actually it’s quite good for me, oddly. He mostly finds one problem he likes - there’s a topout boulder with a slide descent, usually with a kids problem on it, and he just laps that. I have limited success getting him interested in other walls and the problems on them, for some reason. So it sort of ends up as x-on-x-off where I do a bit somewhere and then he does a few laps on his problem, which is maybe quite good for making me rest properly between goes.
Good week. 3 days outside, one of them on ropes and two above the sea. Got a new dws fr7 done, first time in a while (in fact, given I’ve mostly been bouldering since microAJM was born, I think it might be my first fr7 full stop!), made progress on the project, saw a whole bunch of friends - the local dws gang, Duncan, a couple of ex FC stalwarts, and more.
My skin is in tatters - rough grey rock interspersed with regular dunking in salt water is not a kind combination - but hoping that by the end of the week I should be good to go again.
Monday - nothing. Went to camp on Portland in the evening
Tuesday - first thing in the morning I did an hour or so of bouldering with miniAJM, rushed by the arrival of the sun, not much done. Then onwards to Neddyfields to meet Duncan. Did about half a dozen routes, mostly 6b/+, a few I had done before and a few that were new. I had thought about trying Julie Ocean, which is the obvious ** 6c+ there, but the last route suggested my arms were rather tired! A day roped climbing, particularly if not projecting, is a very different load pattern to the short bouldering sessions I’ve done recently, and I can definitely tell.
Wednesday - more or less nothing, bit achey. I set myself a harder crimp circuit for the board - I need to swap out one hold I think for something slightly nicer, but otherwise I think it’s good. A big step up from the other one, so good variety of options on offer.
Thursday - nothing.
Friday - drive to Portland in the evening
Saturday - Portland dws day. Bunch of warmups, then had to drop in from the top to work out the link sequence again on the project. Then 2 burns - the first was good with a small tactical error but still progress, the second slightly less good but some small learning nevertheless.
Sunday - more dws. A few warmups, then the best go on the project yet - got to the final holds before the sanctuary of easy ground, and got my foot on its way towards the enormous foothold on the easy finish. Decided I didn’t have another go on it in me, so jumped on Water Wings (7a+). Got my left hand onto the flying arête first go but couldn’t figure out the beta of trying to get a knee or toe to purchase on the lip. The second time I just pulled harder on the heel instead, got my other hand on the arête, and managed to get to the good hold at the top. Good tick, punchy little boulder, great fun.
Cheers Alan! Considerably less volume this week (not that I'm complaining!), but two very productive sessions indoors.
I've got Tuesday and Wednesday free, tempted by North Wales as I've got some friends up there this week, but AJM has got me really intrigued about some DWS. Intended to go last year in Portland but tide times and wind didn't allow, and this year I never actually made my way down. Thoughts?
M - Rest.
T - Rest.
W - Started walking into Crag B but was not dressed for the nettles, so sacked it off to the gym. Good session, flashed loads on the wall from V4-6 and even a cheeky V5-7. Finger happy even on some crimpy numbers. Half hour of power on the Moonboard, bashing out another half dozen 6B+/C benchmarks. Had a quick play on the big rungs on the campus board and surprised myself with my first 1-4-7, on both sides as well. Do nettle stings enhance performance?
T - Rest.
F - Rest.
S - Active rest. Lots of food and dancing.
S - Moonboard session. Managed Power Cat and Improvvisazione, both of which I struggled with pre-pandemic, so that's pretty good. Bashed out another 4 benchmarks between 6B+ and 6C+. Productive. Contrast baths and hip stretches before bed.
M - Rest.
T, W - Wales? Portland? Peak?
T, F - Rest, maybe some additional antagonists?
S, S - Busy but hopefully can squeeze in a couple hours somewhere.
Rehabilitate finger (going rather well).
Another 7B would be nice but nothing particularly caught my eye for a short term siege.
> Gordale project sounds promising, what are Autumn conditions typically like there?
S: First day in Portland, very sunny so went to east side assuming shade in the afternoon but still in sun quite late. Resulting in no skin left today! Highlights were Drowning on Dry Land (6c) OS and Rocket from the Crypt (7a+) second go. Both well worth their two stars and both post op PBs for me.
> planetmarshall - shame about not getting on Beast, great route. I recall finding Sergeyenna desperate for the grade (a long time ago)
Cheers Alan, it's not going anywhere ( I don't think! )
More climbing than training this week - not necessarily a bad thing but need to get back on the training wagon I think.
Drive to the Lakes to make the most of a flash warm period. Some kayaking on Coniston
Gimmer Crag. Got slightly lost on the approach from ODG - maybe just try the direct assault next time (though pretty sure where the path goes now)
Last Week's Goals
Depending on conditions, one of
Next Week's Goals
Resume some systematic training. Haven't done any trail runs for a while
Start some systematic training towards climbing this - do some of the finger cracks at Millstone and Lawrencefield.
Thanks Alan - no chance to get to the Orme just yet, but started asking around for potential partners.
M – Lunchtime ride (33km) and evening virtual physio assessment with Biscuit to start sorting out neck and shoulder grumbles.
T – 1st round of physio exercises. 4x 8reps. Good little shoulder quivers at the end so intensity seemed about right.
W – My wife crushed my resolve to train by offering me a beer after work and pointing out it was likely the last hot weather before ’22 = rest.
T – Aero-power. Double lap of my wood circuit + 6C benchmark / 4min rest. 1st and 2nd reps went well. 3rd set dropped the 6C, 4th barely started the 6C, 5th barely finished the woods. Shoulder a bit grumbly, but not too bad. Neck ok too.
F – 25km / 50min flat ride.
S – Peak with old mate from Bristol days. WCJ Cornice. Incapacity Benefit (7a+) OS warm-up. Dogged The Disillusioned Glue Machine (8a). Nasty split pocket felt tweaky so sacked it off. Dogged Rumble in the Jungle (8a+). Lovely route but the pocket traverse put L shoulder in a funny position and I decided to not commit to the move. One to come back for. At Fred’s insistence got on Yorkshire 8b (8a). Eventually we worked it all out and I had a couple of RP efforts but didn’t make it through the short hard bit over the overlap (7A+/B crimp & undercut boulder sequence?)
S – 8km local walk with Squig in rucksack carrier. Physio; more reps and bigger weights than Tuesday. Waiting for the DOMS to hit me sometime later today?
Well done on CRRH!
Yeah Cheyne is fairly south east so hangs onto it for a bit. Neddyfields and Godnor are more pure east but also probably not as good for your grades...
> ... AJM has got me really intrigued about some DWS. Intended to go last year in Portland but tide times and wind didn't allow, and this year I never actually made my way down. Thoughts?
DWS is best
If it was here you were thinking, then Tues/Wed is too much of a neap tide for Portland, but an early afternoon high neap tide could be quite nice for Lulworth if the weather is playing ball. And you can do Conner whenever from a tidal perspective.
Thanks Alan, great effort still on your epic stats run. It was powerplant at the cornice that I looked at. It could get wet this week or be fine for another 2 months, who knows, but once it's gone that'll be it for this year!
Tues. A conditions/logistics shambles saw me try two crags that were both condensed before running to Moat Buttress for a 40min endurance session on the traverse. I only had enough time to work the first 2/3 of it but I'm pretty sure I could do that in one now so just the last section to look at. Very beta dependent but OK with a sequence.
Wed. 6 sets of repeaters, and 5x5 pull ups and some press ups. Elbows a bit grumbly trying to climb/train 2 days in a row but seem so have got away with it despite some grumbles on thurs and Fri. Steady 12km run late eve.
Thurs and Fri. Rest.
Sat. Went for a second session on powerplant. Top roped it in 2 overlapping sections but took me ages to find a way to clip the 3rd bolt so no lead goes. Still don't feel like I've got the best possible sequence yet so potentially needs another working session before trying a lead.
Sun. Was out last night for a friend's birthday so today involved being slow and quiet! Took the kids for a walk in the Peak with one of their friends, generally felt tired.
Cheers for the beta, as a very thoroughbred boulderer (i.e. 0 endurance, get pumped at the sight of a bolt or rope), I was under the impression that Lulworth might be a bit too pumpy or hardcore, and the stuff around Portland Bill was at a more amenable bouldery height, do you think it might be worth waiting for next year or just getting stuck in?
Is it pumpy, or high, that's the main concern?
If it's high, then yeah some of the stuff at Lulworth is higher than Portland. But at the same time a lot of it is steep bucket hauling so kind of friendly - you might gain height but you're also gaining "out" above mostly decent water. For stuff that's lower, you could look to:
There are others, but those are all good and never go particularly high. For higher stuff Animal Magnetism (7a+) is probably the place to start, it's lower than some and you get out above the deep water nice and quickly, plus it's usually chalked since it's very popular.
If you do want to do Portland then tides look good again from about Wed-Sat of next week (i.e. running up to Sat 25th)
> Liam P - hope the limping about on crutches is going reasonably ok?
Cheers Alan. I’m hobbling along ok. I was going to gracefully bow out of FitClub until I could return to meaningful training…but you’ve reeled me back in! That, and Beastmaking dropped through the door this morning and has me psyched to jump on my new Board. I’ll try to keep my home-training posts short. Please don’t feel the need to give any feedback as they’ll be very repetitive and boring - it’s more to keep me on the straight and narrow (and out the fridge!)
Have a good week!
> you’ve reeled me back in! ... it’s more to keep me on the straight and narrow (and out the fridge!)
Providing (virtual) moral support in difficult times is surely a large part of what Fit Club is for.
I made a policy decision a while back to stop absentee shaming as a general practice, but in your case I didn't want you to think we'd forgotten you the moment you got hurt.
AJM made a valiant attempt to sell it to me too. I can see the fun in water level traversing, but I have no interest in going upwards.
You seemed to have mixed views about it...!
But on the other hand you did Ixtlan afterwards, which objectively speaking ought to feel a lot more intimidating given the topout crux!!!
(The first time I went to do proper upwards DWS was probably at Conner cove - I did Troubled Waters, then the Conger, with a view that the blue stuff underneath me was nothing more than blue concrete. You'd have had to hit my fingers with a hammer to make me let go! I topped out the Conger, sat down well back from the edge, and didn't do DWS for several years afterwards!)
I back training this week after a August away, but full on back at work as well so tired come the evenings and hard to get much done.
M - Indoor boulders (and auto belays) Redpoint autos usually have a 5,6a,6b,6c,7a set, and my standard "warm up ladder" is up and down the 5, then up and down the 6a, up 6b, up 6c, up 7a. No resting at the bottom, only rest is either on the top hold of the route I'm on, or a quick shake on the descent. Then max hangs 10s*6 +15kG +planks. Followed by boulder session flashed a V7, which doesn't happen very often.
W - Lots of DOMS from Monday and raining, so Indoor Boulders at Flashpoint. Tried to Max hang, but could tell arms were not into it, so stopped. Made good headway in the V5/V6 sets there.
F - Wanted to train but too tired from work.
Sun - Outdoors with partner going to Lundy with. New Horizons II (E2 5c), Arms Race (E4 5c), Mirage (E3 6a) (rested on the crux as couldn't see vital hold, then saw it and did it, so training but not a clean lead) and finished up on the way home with the old skool Bog Wall Traverse (none 5c)
Lundy on Saturday, so try to squeeze 2 sessions in this week during a mental week at work, which I already feel broken from, and its only Monday.
So the last time I posted was week 713 and for some odd reason I mentioned that my Y Fal walk was 11.5 miles. No idea why I said that, it's 6 miles door to door. Hence the 1h 30m target, which is a bit pie in the sky now, but we'll see.
Anyway, I'm back after a fashion. No idea how long it'll last, but I'm making plans for a regular wall session with a friend, so hopefully some kind of fitness improvements will come soon.
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Y Fal, about 2h 45m
T - Rest
F - Y Fal, about 2h 45m
S - Went to Gower with Just Tintin and my family. Seconded a VS, about 4 miles of trogging and a little swim.
S - Lots of gardening
It has been a really good week. My son started school and they tired him out so well that he slept right up to 0700. Used up the last few days off work to have some time off and was able to get a few nice walks in. Had been planning on meeting up with Just Tintin on Friday, but that didn't plan out, so did more walking. We did however meet up at Three Cliffs. Spent a lovely day on the beach, went for a nice little swim, my son loved playing around on Tintin's paddle board. Then to cap it all off I manage to haul my fat carcass up Scavenger (VS 4c) with a rather tight rope I'll admit. But I did manage it and it was great. Wonderful day with family and friends. Then we did a load of gardening, mostly tidying up for the winter type stuff, lots of lifting, digging and general exercise.
> Anyway, I'm back after a fashion
Good, and as someone who took a long break I know (well, knew already really) that ‘after a fashion’ is better than ‘not at all’.
> You seemed to have mixed views about it...!
As I happened to be in Lulworth today on my rest day I decided to do The Maypole (HVS 5b) which I enjoyed but even this was far more adventurous than other HVS I can remember and anything higher/harder would have definitely veered over into unpleasant.
Good on you for having another go
In reply to mattrm:
Welcome back Matt!
> the sheep - successful tri day, excellent. I won't ask you about the next set of goals for another week or two.
Its fine to ask, the simple answer is i havnt got a clue yet. However it was great to be back in a group participation event. After the groups start for the swim the field did spread out and with a no drafting rule on the bikes you never felt crowded
Monday, 500m swim
Tuesday, training day at work, free lunch so no swim. Nice gentle 8.5km trail run in the evening.
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim, 6km evening run
Thursday, 1km swim and stretch class
Friday, 1km swim
Saturday, celebrations for my eldest daughters 18th birthday. Not sure how that came riound so quick Cooked up a feast and drank fizz and wine
Sunday, chill out!
Hi Alan, thanks as ever for the high quality statting.
It's been a heck of a busy week this week and i've packed my training diary ready to take with me tomorrow and now i can't remember what i did.
Highights - boulder session up to V7, did my legs and S&C work
Lowlights - gave myself whiplash falling off bouldering. Only felt it the next day. Very owchy. AeroPow score was very disappointing. Not sure what that was about.
I gave Super Dupont (7b+) a good go on Saturday (i think) but fell literally one move from a hands off rest before significantly easier climbing. I warmed up, but then got a bit too cold so had a bash up Electric Warrior (7b) as it had a top rope on it (rested at the crux as i didn't want to tweak my wrist) but got the rest OK. Rested a bit and then went up to have a look at the beta. Got a much better sequence for the lower crux and felt i had enough for the upper red point crux as i managed the big slap once.
On my RP go the new beta worked so well i climbed past the clip and had to reverse a couple of the moves to make the clip and then go again. Scraped through the rockover to the rest by the skin of my teeth. Rested what i thought was long enough and set off. 3 moves in i was aware i was tanking fast. I peeled off the crimps trying to get my foot up to the edge. Not too gutted as I tried my hardest and didn't get distracted by falling etc.
Rested a while but knew i didn't have anther bash at that in me. Tried to flash Shades of Mediocrity (7a) but didn't have that in me either. Any small holds just pumped me out.
So i didn't get my mini proj but if the weather holds i'll have it when i'm back.