UKC

UKC FitClub 584

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 guy127917 27 May 2018

 

Evening! This weeks thread is brought to you a really interesting article on goal setting I found this week: https://jamesclear.com/goal-setting#Ruthlessly%20Eliminate%20Your%20Goals

 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

 

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_583-685328

 

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

 

Si dH: Thanks for the video- looking super close! Hows it going in the lakes?

AJM: Bad shoes- one of the best climbing excuses

Tyler: You got a film on your prom but you didn’t share it with us!?

MauraLorrissey: Impressed with the deadlifts Did you recovery from the lurgy?

guy127917: You need to get back on the plan!

mrchewy: Seems like I learn something about injury from you every week! Have my fingers crossed you make a speedy recovery. Good work finding ways to train with it as well!

Dandan82: Did you make it to Margalef injury free?

hms: I was impressed with the sweary effort level! Good work on Snaffel Attack too.

AlanLittle: There is quite a lot of positive/growth mindset stuff on http://trainugly.com/ 

Ally Smith: Awesome thanks for the pic/video- good to see the route. Are you going to be taking plenty of slo-mo training videos to splice with the eventual send footage?

Brodes: Great set of goals, plenty to keep you motivated!

Tom Green: The muscular endurance phase just seems like it will be so… tiring! 

the sheep: Do you have a year mileage goal this year?  

Bones: Sort yourself out love

Richard Popp: Hope you enjoy being remote, catch you next week.

Jamming Dodger: No worries- I’m finishing my job next week too and finding it hard to maintain training motivation!

Ardo: Great to hear you had a successful week- did you build on this this week?

Powderpuff: If some simple carbs before training make you feel good then I wouldn’t worry about it- feeling ‘guilty’ probably has a worse effect than snacks!

Rebecca Ting: Is the finger improving week to week?

Mattrm: Ah cool- I think the DQS system is a pretty good method, will be interested to hear how you get on.

TheFasting: Sounds like a great couple of weeks. Glad your first trad fall confirmed rather than denied the quality of your gear placement!

 

AWOL: planetmarshall, cyan, Andy Nelson, Climbthatpitch

 

 Si dH 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I read the goal setting article, nothing revolutionary for me, but makes some sensible points. Sort of tangential but I have always found it helpful to set goals that support each other (ie in the simplest case, goal 1 is a step towards goal 2, rather than being independent of it and needing a completely separate training regimen.) I think this helps reduce the problem of competing goals that he discusses.

STGs (April-June):

7B in Font (tick) 

Eastwood Traverse (tick)

The Mentalist

 

MTGs (July-November):

 

3x7B/+s in North Wales

Caviar 

Powerband (stretch goal...) 

 

LTGs:

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 

 

M: did 4 sets each of IYWs, low rows and reverse flies, plus some leg raises.

T: rest

W: late evening session on the Mentalist. Felt strong again but kept fumbling the bump to the pocket. Walking out through the Churnet late at night is really eerie, lots of owls around.

T: rest

F: ballache journey to the lakes. Packing for a holiday is much harder with a baby...

S: short morning session at the Bowderstone trying Picnic Sarcastic. Harder than I'd expected; it was hot and maybe i suffered a bit from poor conditions. Anyway, got very close but ran out of time to rest enough to be able to do the last move.

S: rest

 

A chilled week this week, which works reasonably well as it's 5 weeks since I started my current training phase, so I'm due a restful week. Planning another climbing session for a couple of hours tomorrow (Monday) morning, probably to Carrock Fell, but it might be too hot to do anything hard. 

 

Si

Post edited at 22:04
 AJM 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy. 

Easy to record my week. Nothing.

Some walking with the pram yesterday but generally just feeling wiped out and lacking in motivation to use what spare energy I had on the fingerboard or whatever. More sleep at home, less busy at work, all these things would help. I also could do with getting a training plan written down for Smith (and booking it, too!) to give me more focus.

- Supposed to be out tomorrow and hopefully midweek.

- London weekend and early the week after then Lakes for a long weekend the following one. 

After that, I need to knuckle down and start doing some training again as well as just (occasionally) climbing.

 

 Cyan 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

So slack! This week has not been very productive.

Mon: Rest.

Tues: Stronghold. Social boulder, lots of (kind of soft) V4-6 circuit.

Wedns: Rest.

Thurs: Drinking.

Fri: Drinking.

Sat: Park run, feeling sick and sorry. Short crap boulder. Crazy hot and humid - spectacular storm later.

Sun: Cycled for about an hour. Made elderflower wine

 mrchewy 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I wish I wasn't forced to know so much about injury - feeling quite good at the moment, well I would if the toe was okay.

 

Mon - Pinnacle 2.5hrs. Autobelay with one ice climbing boot on.

Tue - Mobility stuff, squats and proper stretching session.

Wed - Rest

Thu - Sore toe and a middle finger from work, so bailed on going Paul's.

Fri - Unexpected night out.

Sat - Work.

Sun - 2.5hr session of stretching, weighted shoulder stuff and 200 squats, bodyweight but hey... I weigh 84kgs! Walked 5km too but slowly as the foot wasn't strapped.

 

The week went to plan apart from Thursday, the foot was sore from up and down steps and ladders and I decided a fingerboard session might be wiser. Then spent two hours using a caulking board and that was it, fingers shattered. It's basically a session of crimping constantly and the middle finger takes such a hammering that I have to tape it.

The autobelay session whacked me out too, I think I was overgripping as I was nervous to slip and fall but I was standing on the smallest edges in the boot and it wasn't hurting at all. My shoulders and lats were sore the next day, proper doms.

Not used to working fulltime at all, averaging six days a week since I got back from Swizzy and I haven't done that for over three years and it's taking it's toll in terms of aches and pains. So this mornings proper session of stretching was much needed. I had hatched a plan to do a 1000 squats but the calves got a little tight and that meant the toe started to hurt, so sensibly stopped. I'm learning.

 

Gotta keep doing something this week and hope these bones gel.

 Tyler 27 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> You got a film on your prom but you didn’t share it with us!?

If I get any more footage this week I'll post it up on Instagram so it's there for all three of my followers to watch! 

Poor week due to work pressure but managed to get out on Wednesday evening. Went with my wife for once and I think she even enjoyed it until she tripped over trying to stay warm. I had one bolt to bolt and did the last two bolts together which I've not done on a warm up before. Then did my best link from the sidepull and undercut. Had another go from a bolt lower but for some reason my foot kept skidding off a hold on the easy section so rested and did last three bolts which was my previous best link anyway. 

Friday drove to Arocharr in the evening. The weekend on the Cobbler didn't go to plan. I baled off the traverse on Punster's Crack (Summer) (S) as I thought it was a bit dicey for the wife which led to a proper cluster f*ck and delays to other people. It was waaay too windy for my mate to have a proper go on Dalhirahda so I had a pathetic attempt on TR to replace the thread which is pretty much as high as I got but at least I got the Insta photo! Third objective was Club Crack (E2 5c) but I had a last minute change of heart and sent Adam up first. Glad I did in a way as it felt a bit of a sandbag and a good reminder that, although trad grades seem very benign (I mean, E2 is like 6b French grade) it only tells part of the story. 

Today we walked up Ben Donich which was all my legs could manage after carting a heavy sack up and down the Cobbler yesterday, surprisingly my knees were in a worse state than my hip.

Weight has been good but just pigged out at the motorway services (Truckhaven on the M60 is even better than Tebay services if you like value and the food was pretty good as well). 

Post edited at 23:33
 AlanLittle 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG: Schattenspiele, Konstein - boulder routelet project. Depends on convincing somebody to go to Konstein, not the most fashionable/popular venue. 

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

___________________________________

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Addressing the self-diagnosed aerocap deficit: 15 rounds of easy circuits.

T: Half an hour shoulder & general mobility

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Another bunch of aerocap circuits, mixed in with some minimum edge hangs on the transgression board to maintain my recruitment level (and pain threshold)

T: Half an hour shoulder & general mobility

F: Bike one hour.

Physio appointment to have my right shoulder rearranged.

S: Brauneck. Thirty degrees, too hot for Konstein so went up higher. Didn't help. The crags at Brauneck are at 1,600 metres but in a south facing, wind sheltered bowls. Oops. Had hopes of flashing a 6c+ I had belayed a friend on a while ago, but greased off some flat, dusty  slopers transitioning out of the overhanging start onto the slabby top half on a move that shouldn't even have been hard. Oops. Was too intimidated to try again: transitioning out of steep sections scares me - too  much risk of a belayer thwacking you into the lip instead of letting you drop clear of it. Disappointed with myself.

S: No partner lined up for today. Considered going bouldering but thought better of it given continuing pre-thunderstorm humid heat. Did a lightish aerocap session at the wall in the evening when it was a bit cooler instead: Freimann, nine routes. They had one comp-style thing on big slopy volumes, supposedly "6b" but basically ungradeable weirdness. Great fun.

_______________________________________

Having studied the calendar I've concluded that I have time for two cycles of Eric Hörst's 4-3-2-1 intermediate plan before Kaly. This seems generally sensible: four weeks aerocap/mileage/base, three strength & power, two ancap, taper, crush. I'm interpreting these as "focus on" rather than "do exclusively", for example Eric allows up to 20% trying harder stuff in the base phase so the odd day of outdoor projecting is ok. Seems generally sensible based on what I've read, essentially a less puritanical version of Rock Prodigy / RCTM. Let's see.

Post edited at 07:01
 AJM 28 May 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

4+3+2+1 - it looks like there's a power endurance shaped gap in it somewhere? And I wonder whether 3 weeks of strength training will do much more than get your recruitment up (which helps, in the short term, but there's no long term gains to be made in a 3 week strength block?).

 Powderpuff 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hey Guy,

Easy week last week. 

Monday:at the wall, climbed two of the v3-5 circuit at the end of my warm up. Then made progress on  2 of the new v4-6 circuit and tried a 3rd problem briefly.

Thursday:easy technique session. Climbed 8 of the v2-3 circuit with good form. 3 sets of the usual exercises. Diet ok. Stress high at work though but  going on a family holiday to the lake district this week, it will be good to get some down time and spend some time with the family.  

Post edited at 08:40
 Tom Green 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi All. Thanks for the statting Guy, and thanks also for the article link -timed perfectly for the period where I am losing my way a little bit, with work and life competing with training and making it easier to use things like my sore knee as an excuse for not running. A few useful tips there to get me back on the straight and narrow.

Last Week:

A week of successful small sessions and complete avoidance of big volume sessions. Need to keep reminding myself that Kyrgyzstan is not going to be a success if I don't have the legs and aerobic fitness for it.

M: Shoulder prehab -trying to get back in to this habit now that I'm upping the weighted pull-ups.

T: Core and max strength: upped the progressions on the core and increased pull-up weight to BW+15%

W: Rest/work/life

T: Rest/work/life

F: Core and max strength

S: Rest/work/life

S: Climbing at Ramshaw and Roaches: 110+m up to E1 (STG partial tick! Grit E1)

 

Next Week:

NEED TO GET Z1 VOLUME IN!! Aim for 5 hours in at least 2 sessions.

2 Core Sessions

2 Max strength sessions

1 Hill sprint session -knee permitting

1 Climbing session

 

STG/Q2:

Sandstone trail in <10h (TICK)

E1 on 3+ rock types (2 down)

Boulder 6B in Lofoten 

 

MTG/Q3:

El Cap Nose Day

New routes in Kyrgyzstan

 

LTG/Q4:

Jaz (D8)

North Face Original Route (ED1)

 

BHAG:

Le Coeur (f7A)

The Swine (E3 6a)

Centurion (Winter) (VIII 8)

The Colton-Brooks (ED2 5)

West Ridge (ED1 6b)

 Powderpuff 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I also enjoyed going down a goal setting hole this morning! Thanks Guy. I'll have to try some of these techniques out. Im thinking more at work rather than climbing(sorry Guy) but one allows the other to happen

OP guy127917 28 May 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Glad the article helped. I'm also in a bit of a rut- having an osteo tell me to take a break from running just unleashed the lazy. Coupled with the fact I finish work next week and have no further plans other than "go climbing" it's hard to get back into it! Trying to focus on the fact that my partner in the Bugs is ridiculously fit and will burn me off in an instant if I slack off now...

 hms 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Busy week but indoors now out.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. UCR on way home. Trying hard on chunks of the '7b' circuit. Very tired by the end.
W - cycle commute. 
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Warm-up then several burns on the 7b+. The overlapping links are linking further up the route but just shy of the top. Blasted up 4 6b+ back to back to finish.
F - TCA. Warmed up on circuits. Flashed all the V1-V3 set (except the silly sideways dyno!). Then had a frustrating time on the new V2-V4 set, ticking less than half the ones I tried. Mind you, other people seemed to be struggling too, so maybe TCA have overcooked them (yet again!). 
S - 2 miles urban walking. Core session.
S - cloudburst in the morning. Redpoint. Ticked a 7b after a few goes. Got stuck into an anti-style 7b+ which I've worked out and done in chunks up to the last couple of moves. 8 back-to-back autobelays 6b and below to finish. Rehab in evening cos shoulder started grouching.

this coming week will not be so productive as a work trip (supposed to be last week) will blat Weds & Thurs, then visiting D2 at weekend.

 AlanLittle 28 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the feedback 

Power endurance is the "2". Eric reckons if you really hammer this hard you can make quick gains but they also level off quickly. And I plan to keep up basic strength maintenance at least weekly through the other phases.

I could probably just double the whole thing up & do one big cycle before Kaly, but that would be going down the fully block periodised road and writing off any serious attempt to achieve anything in terms of project ticks in the meantime, which I don't want to do.

Generally interested to see what any structure brings really. Previously I've done phases of "just read on ukb that loads of aerobic mileage is a good idea so I'll do that for a few weeks", "moonboard looks cool so I'll throw myself at that until I plateau" but not really in any kind of scientifically thought through sequence.

 the sheep 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Not a good week, Mum was taken to hospital so spent the early part of the week in Yorkshire, 

managed to fit a couple of 10k Hill runs in between visits 

back at work the end of the week so 2x 1.5k swims

she is Home and on the mend so fingers crossed for no further problems 

 AJM 28 May 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

Fair enough. My personal experience would lead me to disagree with Eric on the point about levelling off - I did 4-3-2-1 years ago, then expanded my power endurance period to 4 weeks, then to 6, (probably moving in fad from Eric to Self Coached Clinber to Lattice) as it became clear that for me the gains were still there to be had.

But I can see why you might not want to go all out on the periodization .

 Dandan 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Did you make it to Margalef injury free?

Thanks as always Guy, yes I did in fact board the plane with no excuses to fall back on whatsoever! 

I'm on my phone so can't be arsed to type too much, but I'm sat in the Casa watching the rain on the windows, so I've got some time on my hands...

M: Rest

T: indoor boulder; half sessions of progressive ancap, board ascending and campus laddering. Probably not ideal to squeeze them all in one session but it seemed to work OK, nearly ticked my new woody proj on the board ascending session.

W: Aero fingerboard, 2x 8 mins of 7/3 at 30% max on AA slot. Also lower body flexibility.

T: Indoor routes;just mooching about doing whatever I wanted, did the nails 7c(8a) in one hang which felt good.

F: aero fingerboard, 8 mins of 7/3 at 40% of max on AA slot, felt hard but not impossible like it did a few months back.

S: Travel to spain

S: Culample for Mrs Dandan to tick her nemesis project La Mia (7a) which she promptly did. Its also 7a+ all day long. I took 2 goes to get A Flash de Gatell (7b+), I misread the crux, but it's still soft, should have got the onsight really, nice route.

After a long afternoon break we went back out to burn some excess energy so I pulled on El Fustigador (8a+) which felt pretty hard. Super steep on reasonable pockets, I just about managed all the moves while dogging but some of them were pretty intense and linking them seemed like another level! To be fair I'd warmed down for 4 hours so wasn't perhaps in the best shape, but I'd certainly get on it again.

We did get out this morning but got seriously rained off and tomorrow is not looking great so who knows how much more climbing we will manage, still, good friends, good food, good wine, I think we'll be OK.  

 Ally Smith 28 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

 

Week 21

M – Still felt a bit ropey, and was in two minds about going out. The it rained and the decision was made for me! Mild bit of core; 100+ weighted sit-ups; 40/20/6 side planks @+5kg. 2x20 OHP@8kg. Wrist curls; 8kg up, 4kg reverse. Might need to invest in a heavier weight vest…

T – Early travel to London. Fun bouldering session with Cyan at Stronghold – by far and away the best wall I’ve been to in London. Didn’t feel like I was going to maim anyone if I fell off, and great quality problems – such a treat to have problems that actually felt like I could project and get after a bit of work, rather than the normal indoor fayre of those I can flash and those I can’t touch. Very late checking into hotel = skipped dinner.

W – Nowt; all day training on “agile”. Breakfast buffet. Lunch buffet. Train snacks. Home cooked dinner – probably over compensating for one missed meal…

T – Got keys to new house. Started cleaning.

F – Moved house. Had the pros this time, so much less box humping than 7 weeks ago.

S – Unpacking.

S – More unpacking, then gardening, then BBQ’ing.

 

 planetmarshall 28 May 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

> W – Nowt; all day training on “agile”. 

I'm so sorry.

 MauraLorrissey 29 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy! I am a little worried my form wasn't the best, but pleased with my effort. Annoyingly the lurgy persisted this week and dropped to my chest, so eased back into it by the end of the week. 
 
STG/Weekly:
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - back to it next week
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - tick
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - tick 36.5km
MTG:
*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered ... coming up to quickly. 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by July
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by July
LTG:
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-roa...
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday:
rest/sick

Tuesday:
T/R session - stuck to greens and some overhangs
 
Wednesday:
rest
 
Thursday:
AM: block run, KB squats, push ups/KB thrusts, burpees, step ups/step overs, push ups, sit ups (5kg plate), leg raises
PM: T/R session - climbed a red/22/6C!! Finger still sore but it wasn't too crimpy. Nearly flashed it but fell off trying to move my hands so I didn't crimp on my left hand. Felt good to be doing harder moves again. 
 
Friday:
AM: "Medina Hill" training. Lots of walking with 8kg KB up a hill continuously
PM: T/R session - more overhangs, attempted a red overhung route. Failed!  
 
Saturday:
Cycle - river loop (anti-clockwise) 36.5km, 387m elevaation gain, 23.1km/hr average speed. 
 
Sunday:
rest/severely hungover from sisters leaving do
 
 AJM 29 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Supposed to be out tomorrow

I'll add that to this week to make it look less rubbish .

Blacknor north to start; ok in the shade. Repeated some classics (reptile smile, slingshot, very sleepy river), onsighted Downtown Julie Brown (6c) which was sweaty and tricky but v good. Brian had unfinished business on Is Vic There? (7a) so with clips in place (handy for 3) and some beta I nipped in for the flash. Tricky with a touch crux section.

Then the shade went and it became like the surface of the sun. We bailed for ice cream, and then kick-started our DWS seasons at Lulworth. Good conditions. Lap on The Maypole (HVS 5b) (~6a) and on The Laws Traverse (E1 6a) (supposedly 6c, I guess because of the 2 cave rests, but a tricky crux and the wall after that, whilst on big holds, is always beyond vertical). Brian went for a swim off this one. Sore toes and skin and sun departing so called time there .I love Lulworth .

A good day. I'm not sure in the UK I ever went past 7a onsight or 7a+ flash so it's nice to be there or thereabouts again. Feeling the fitness a bit more now, so as a quasi-base-fitness boost trying to get some miles on has probably been good for me. A few weekends off coming up but maybe time to try some harder stuff after that?

 hms 29 May 2018
In reply to AJM:

you definitely made the right decision to stay in your own neck of the woods. We went to Ban y Gor yesterday and everything was sopping. The only approximately dry route we found as a single 5+. Sacked off and returned to Bristol for a TCA session instead.

 AJM 29 May 2018
In reply to hms:

It turned out very nice in the end. If we had had the energy we could have been out every day I think. Some thunderstorms Saturday night but Brian was out Sunday and it was fine just scorchio.

 mrchewy 29 May 2018
In reply to the sheep:

> Not a good week, Mum was taken to hospital so spent the early part of the week in Yorkshire, 

> she is Home and on the mend so fingers crossed for no further problems 

 

Good to hear.

 

 Tom Green 29 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Haha! I feel your pain! get some pictures of bugs routes on your wall/fridge door etc!

 Tom Green 29 May 2018
In reply to the sheep:

Sounds rough. Hope things sort themselves soon. 

Jamming Dodger 29 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Work Work Work Work. Van stuff. More work.

This weekend I’m away in t’van celebrating being officially unemployed for two days.

Then back to reality but more riding. 

Mixed bag in Helen world.

Enjoy folks.

 

 Ardo 30 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy and yup, I did manage to build on it. You set for your trip/s?

Mo: General walking, 7.6 miles. Rest day.
Tu: General walking, 6.7 miles. Up/downs * 3 * 3, 3 min rest.5 problems, 2 min rest. Campus, (feet on, 1 min on/2 min off * 5), hangboard, (6s on/4s off * 6)
We: General walking, 6.4 miles. Rest day.
Th: Commuting walking 7.9 miles. 5 problems set * 3, 3 min rest. 3 lead, (6b+)
Fr: General walking. 8.2 miles. Pack for Lakes
Sa: 7.9 miles walking. Reecastle crag: 3 trad routes, E2 onsight. :-D
Su: 8.3 miles walking. Black crag, Pike o’Blisco, 6 trad routes, HVS onsight x 2.

Weight: 10st 7lb/bf 15.9%

Good training, diet ok, flat purchase moving along, 7a project at wall should go on next attempt, E2 onsight and ice cream in t’Lakes cap another successful week.

 biscuit 30 May 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

 Bike psyche seems to have naturally taken a back seat since the Fred. One commute and one 60km ride since. Probs need to make a bit of an effort as I'm off to the Alps in a couple of weeks. But I've got a couple of weeks once there to get some big rides in and acclimatise to never ending uphills rather than short steep UK ones.

On the plus side I've been getting some climbing done with a handful of indoor sessions and I got out over the BH weekend in the Lakes. A day of single pitch in Borrowdale and then a monster day out on Pillar. As my first outdoor climbing since last year it went OK. An HVS and an E2 single pitch done (and one gearless E1 retreated from) and an E1 mountain route was all good. 

Climbing for the Alps is aiming at multi pitch rock routes with no glacial approaches etc. Ailefroide is on the list but any suggestions welcome up to 6c sport and E1 ish trad. No time to be training really so i'll probably continue to grab what I can where I can climbing wise and do some commuting on the bike the week after this one. That's my last week on placement and then it's France the week after. I can't wait.

 

 

 

 Brodes 01 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

 

> Brodes: Great set of goals, plenty to keep you motivated!

Did some real climbing this week.  My first trad climbing since August 2017.  No fingerboarding.  My back suffered a bit.  Nothing awful - but a step backwards nonetheless.  Holding a high step position seems to be the worst.  Still - my back was so much better than it was during my most recent (sport) climbing in Feb 2018. 

Monday. 12 miles bike on farm tracks. 1 mike walk. Total rest day. No physio exercises. I can feel the problem muscle in the background, but no pain or discomfort. Perhaps sitting all day is doing it. 

Tuesday 12 miles bike. Again - I can feel the problem muscle in the background. Sat all day at work. Then went to climbing wall. Led o/s a 5, a 5+, and one or two 6as. Needed a rest on the other approx. three 6a/6a+ routes. Especially weak on overhanging routes. Back felt slightly better afterwards. 10min physio exercises.

Weds. 9 miles bike. Rest.

Thursday. 20 miles bike. 1h physio. 1h 15min CrossFit: weightlifting, 5 rounds of 400m run and 15 front squats with 40kg weight. Exhausting, and actually quite strenuous! Then 10min of work towards front lever.

Friday. 10 miles bike. Drive to Birmingham with family, then to Pembroke for my first trad climbing since Aug 2017.

Saturday. Mother Carey's Kitchen: Led o/s the easier pitch on Inner Space HVS 4c, seconded The Meridian VS 4c, ledRock Idol E1 5a (in the rain).  Back felt 100% fine. Brilliant.

Sunday.  Stennis Head. Led o/s Riders on the Storm HVS 5a, but tweaked my back a little holding a strenuous high step position trying to place gear - I took ages to lead this one (huge thanks to a very patient second).  Seconded o/s Highland Fling HS 4b.

Monday. St Govan's Head.  Led The Arrow E1 5b.  This was my hardest lead to date.  I took one rest on the rope because I essentially bottled the crux and didn't want to take a fall.  I felt my back complaining a little while I was belaying at the top, but not during the route itself.  Brilliant route, and belaying position.  I even saw a shoal of fish in the shallow water of St Govan's.  Lovely place to spend a weekend. then drove to Birmingham, and then back to Cambridge. 

 

Objectives:

So that's 2/20 E1 leads done.  I'll take the Arrow lead as a tick despite the rest on the rope. 

 

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for the stats Guy. Happy last work week and keep focused on the trips!

I'm not sure it's linear with my finger. It really does depend on what particular holds I've been on and it's hard to know what it a new aggravator until I've tried it. On the definitely bad list are jugs, wide pinches, and strong side-pull crimps. While the crimps on the top of Early Doors felt fine a couple of weeks ago, the same crimps hurt last weekend -  so I guess it's just a combination of load over a few days and heat swelling etc.

M - coaching and a couple of boulders

T - T core and not much else

F - Climbing Unit purples and oranges volume

S - AM Early Doors not working for me today. Finger sore and the conditions didn't last long. 

PM swim in Hathersage lido. Terrible idea, as a bit dirty and the laps lane was being used as an 'adult' lane by people who were just chilling at the ends getting in the way. Got pool rage, and then a blocked ear which I've been struggling with since then

S - Unbalanced and odd-feeling with ear so just cruised around on the V3s/4s at Apparent North in the wind and sun. Nice to be out.

 

 mattrm 02 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 6lbs (1 lbs loss)

M - T - Rest

F - 20 routes at the Rec

S - S - Rest

Slowly improving again.  Slightly harder routes this week.  DQS seems to be working just about and I lost another pound.  Hopefully things will keep getting better and I'll get to climb outside again some time soon.  But things are heading in the right direction.

 Bones [:B 03 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Very short and late this week: I went climbing last week. Bouldered two days in a row before my Castle membership ran out. Freedom! I am currently a PAYG climber.

OP guy127917 03 Jun 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I've clearly been putting this off but I can't really not post now can I! It was a bit of a poor week to be honest. 

Monday: nothing

Tuesday: nothing

Wednesday: 48 minutes running, sacked off bouldering for some reason

Thursday: 35 minutes running, work leaving do number 1, got really drunk and ate 1 stone of lebanese food

Friday: Poor bouldering session on the wave, terrible gym session where I did basically nothing

Saturday: 45 minutes running

Sunday: 45 minutes Pilates class, good session on the wave- ~20 quality limit attempts.

 


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...