UKC

UKC FitClub Week 788

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_787-746521

Morning FitClubbers:

A mixed bag this week. The lurgy seems to be doing the rounds but still a lot of hard training getting done. Last one from my phone as my holiday is over this week. I’ll finally be back on the laptop - and back to training myself!

Stats:

Tyler: Good week. 2x Wall Sessions and 2x trips to the hills. You’re chipping away at the Snowdon Half goal. I think it’s 3 weeks until Race Day? Is it worth having a look at Derek’s Weight Loss plan for some last minute sheddage?

SteveJC94: Some epic routes on the wish list and a solid week. Is the 4x 4 Lead Routes your endurance session? Lead the same route 4 times then rest? If so, I bet that gets a bit emotional towards the end! I’m in the Puerto Rican version of San Juan at the minute. Too hot for sunbathing though!

Alan: Glad you enjoyed the last of the ski-season. Time to get psyched on some climbing goals!

Steve Claw: Beast! 4 days hard climbing on the bounce.

JCK: An enjoyable weekend. Hope the back’s on the mend.

SSB: Quality week in Spain and another classic case of no rest days for SSB - very impressed you dragged yourself out again on the Sunday!

Tom Green: Epic session at Windgather! You could probably slow the pace even more to be honest, especially with the days getting longer.

Derek: Thanks for that Derek. I might give it a try as I’ve packed on the holiday pounds. Looking forward to hearing what you get done at Gogarth.

Randy: I suppose a cold is better than the dreaded Delhi Belly. Hope you’re back fit soon.

Ally: Ah bugger. Teasing out the positives. what motor did you go for in the end?

SidH: Sounds like you had a great time in Font. Sad to see you go as you often post stuff that I’ve nicked for my own training and your comments have been genuinely useful. However, I know how difficult it is with nippers as I’m struggling with only the one! Hope you enjoy the days out when you get them and see you back in FitClub soon.

AJM: Looks like you had a good one and some sage advice regarding Difficulty/Mileage. I’m thinking of picking a couple of harder problems and projecting them. More to let my non-climbing Mrs get set up with a picnic (wine).

Ross Barker: Good week. AnCap training for Ramp Up and some good stuff in Northumberland. Fingers crossed for good conditions and the send!

SulkySaluki: Never heard of Zombies, Run! Sounds intense! Conditioning workout sounds good. A 5x 5 routine of 1x Push, Pull, Legs & ‘Picking up something heavy’ exercises can be done really quickly.

The Sheep: Still not a bad week. 3x Swims 2x Runs and more groundwork. You’ll have shoulders like Tommy Walsh soon.

Biscuit: Interested to hear what you’re diet is like if you’re holding that weight easily? My current BMI is flirting with the overweight line so wouldn’t mind shedding some timber. Circuit sessions sound great and nice one on Intern! Hope the LakesFest preps are going well.

Planet Marshal: Top effort getting out despite the lurg. If you’re close enough to Boulder traverses then I’d definitely choose that over pulling on plastic. Jealous.

Have a good week!

A rare training post from myself. I’m still on the holiday weight gain plan but managed a day out to a local bouldering spot (Area 51 - Juncos) which was amazing. Loads of huge granite blocks in the Puerto Rican jungle - looked like giant dinosaur eggs. I didn’t have a guidebook but found some beta online. Climbed around 15 problems up to V5 which were all excellent. Had to be careful putting my hands out of sight as a few blocks had resident Iguanas!

Looks like climbing has really taken off on the island. I had a bimble around and there are some huge blocks still covered in jungle. Would take a machete and a lot of willpower but must be some amazing lines waiting to be found.

More valiant phone statting! I would never dream of trying to type that much without an actual keyboard.

STG: Need to start thinking about climbing plans/targets. 
MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
MTG: Winter 22/23 - do an actual off piste ski tour
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    Easter Monday hillwalk, Herzogstand. Inspired by Tom's activities - and my own ski touring ambitions - went for a training hike with a big rucksack. Also big boots, partly for training value and partly because I didn't know how much snow there would still be at 1500 metres. None, as it turned out. 425 vertical metres per hour - well short of the 500 I regard as baseline hill fitness. Work to do.
T:    
W:    (Pre-)opening day at Elements, the new just-around-the-corner bouldering wall. It's big, it's very new school in the atmosphere & setting. Good but not amazing, and I'm holding off on a season tcket until I see what the not-yet-finished training area looks like when it's finished.
T:    
F:    Bike 1½ hours urban
S:    Bike 3½ hours mtb in the woods. South of Munich there's loads of intricate but fairly flat single track, where my (basically non-existent) mtb technical skills are challenged just as much as my aerobic capacity. Great way to get some Z1/Z2 hours in while also having fun.
S:     Elements. Session #2 at the new bouldering wall. Volume/movement, trying to do as many "Level 3" as possible. Whatever that means - they range from trivial jughauls to utterly perplexing sloper shuffling. Fun, tiring and a good opportunity to work on my clearly deficient sloper shuffling skills

I really should be getting my motivation together for the sport climbing season, but instead my head is still full of the amazing huge glacier bowl that I saw at Easter in the next valley over from the Kaunertal ski area. For which I will need to get a lot better at skiing, not to mention brushing up on my decades out of date crevasse rescue skills. Contemplating signing up for a DAV course in the summer for the latter.
 

Not much positive things to report this week. Over the week my cold got a little bit better, but i was still struggling with it. Did a Corona-self test on friday which was positive

Strange things that i already did a self negative which was negative after i came back from india. So my best explanation is that i got a cold in india and on top on that contracted covid on  my last 1-3 days in india

So i am currently in recovery mode. Hope that i get do some easy training sessions next week but i won't rush it. On the positive side, compared to what i have heard from other people my symptoms were really mild. Basically just a running nose and a cough, so i hope i will be able to get pack in shape quite soon.

Thanks Liam,

Nothing to report this week as been away with the family.

Did manage a day at Sennen with the children doing super easy top ropes. Finished by taking my boys up Church Window (S 4a) which has to be one of the spiciest VDiffs going.

Thanks Liam, and amazing dedication doing stats on a phone. I did it, but only once as it was a right faff! This week I've been gradually recovering from a minor lurgy but still managed to get plenty done.

Mon and Tues. Full lurgy. Had sort of planned to see Derek on Tues but was pretty glad when he couldn't make it as I was undecided whether I was really well enough so glad the decision was taken out of my hands.

Wed. Feeling a little better so banged in the paracetamol and ibuprofen and met Tom at Almscliffe for some classic sideways silliness. I'll let Tom elaborate but we eventually dragged ourselves along North West Girdle (E1 5b) for the Hard Rock tick and up Parson's Chimney (HS 4b) for the Classic Rock tick. I'm keen to head back for the 3 big E3s on a day when I'm feeling full power. Great day out and thanks to Tom for rescuing (one of) my appallingly placed cams!

Thurs. Steady 9km run (white edge, Curbar, Froggatt) with Mrs Swede. Still not feeling 100% but nice to be out in the sunshine.

Fri. Feeling lots better. Walked Mini Swede in to Houndkirk for a play and a boulder. Had less than an hr before she started to get cold and we had to head back but managed to tick off the local classic Made in Sheffield (f7A+) and also Made in Rotherham (f7A+) which was the aim of the visit. I tried these about 5 years ago briefly but didn't get far so it was good to see off sone unfinished business. 7km bike ride in the evening at Chatsworth. Both kids were on the next size bike so we needed somewhere quiet and easy to practice.

Sat. Rest, children's birthday parties, cake fest. 

Sun. 10km ride with the kids round Rother Valley lakes then over to Anston Stones. Managed to tick Dangerous Action Man Wrestling (f7C) (3rd session). After the first hr I was ready to sack it off to try another year, then I found an intermediate hold, then a thumb catch and decided it was worth a 4th session, then I found a better position for the heel toe and suddenly it was done! I think this is harder than the two 7Cs I've done in the woods but maybe it would have gone much quicker if I'd have found the better heel toe two sessions ago. Drove home feeling like a boss!

Back to work tomorrow, boooooo. 

Excellent - glad you got stuff done with Tom. NW girdle is good isn't it?  Funny place though. Sometimes feels desperate and other times quite friendly.  Great bouldering results though

Post holiday week. Some faff, some admin, a good wall session and a nice half day outside today.

Monday - travelling back from Font. Smoother journey than in the other direction!

Tuesday - busy day of post holiday faff

Wednesday - wall with miniAJM. A solid session. I did an easy momentum problem (but I’m so bad at this sort of thing that anything is an achievement). Then I got on a problem that I had written off due to an obvious hard pull on a right heel in the sequence, and did it the hard way with a no heels sequence, focusing on standing tall and pushing hard on a lower right foot instead. I think the top would have been easier with heel clamps too so double extra difficulty. Then I got back on the project that I had made small progress on a fortnight ago, and finally managed to break through the crux move and after a few goes link through from just below the crux (you can pull on from standing at the lip of the initial roof) to the top. One final go starting from the back of the roof and I managed to get through the crux and fell off the last hard move which is move 9 of 12 including the final match. If you hold the crimp that move goes for then it’s jugs from there. Very chuffed, another one I had assumed was probably out of my league and I definitely know I can do it now.

Thursday - nothing

Friday - messed around a little trying to get the right form cues for Romanian deadlift, which at suitably light weight I figure might offer hamstring rehab. Not certain tbh whether I got it right.

Saturday - an exciting day of admin and adulting

Sunday - dancing ledge with a friend plus the family and all the clutter. Decent amount of walking/lugging. A bunch of easier things then second go tick on Mr. Choo Choo (7a). Nice climbing. Far too hot really, but my friend lives in Swanage and had constricted time windows, so we worked with it.

Thanks for the stats as ever Liam. Hope you're enjoying your holiday - I'm very jealous of the Puerto Rican sun you'll be enjoying!

Exactly that. I tend to pick 4 different lead routes and focus on one route per set - it's amazing how much of a pump you get on the fourth set!

A pretty productive week for me with plenty of endurance work and some great routes today.

Monday

1 on 1 off: 7a, 7a, 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6c

S&C: Weighted Dips (8x4), Russian Twists (20x4), Dumbbell Side Bend (10x4), Shoulder Press (8x3), Flexor Curl (10x3), Extensor Curl (10x3), Hanging Leg Raise (10x3), Press Ups (10x4), Bicycle Crunch (20x4)

Tuesday

Mostly some easy indoor routes, but started working a new 7c on the main wall at Parthian. Managed to get 2/3 of the way up on the first go. I'm sure it'll do with a but more work

Wednesday

Lead route 4x4s: 7a, 6c, 6c, 6b+

Thursday

Rest day

Friday

Returned to some easy hangboarding to start ramping up before my strength phase in a few weeks - 20mm edge, 3 finger drag. 6 x 10s hangs (BW, +4kg, +8kg, +8kg, +10kg, +12kg)

Pull-up testing session - 2 rep max = BW+24kg

Aero 4s (4 x 4 laps of the 6b+ circuit board)

Saturday

Rest day

Sunday

A great day out at Stanage with some 3 start routes in the bag: Eliminator (HVS 5b), The Tippler (E1 5b), Providence (E1 5c) and Tip Off Right (E1 5b)

Plan for next week:

M - More easy hangboarding, 50-50 endurance session and Strength & Conditioning

T - Rest dat

W - Routes endurance (4x4s)

T - Rest day

F - Rest day

S/S - Down in Pembroke for the Bank Holiday weekend - hoping for blue skies and crimpy routes 

Arghh, I hadn’t realised it was that close! Hmm, in theory I’m well behind schedule but thanks to your reminder I’ve decided to enter anyway so just done that, so thank you for the kick up the arse….I think!

It absolutely is, I’m currently on an all you can eat holiday so in theory it will be easy for me to stick to a protein heavy diet. Unfortunately (as I found out today) it’s also easy to stick to an cake heavy diet. 
M: Absolutely battered after yesterday’s run so went touristing around Harlech, just walking up the battlements of the castle was hard work (but really enjoyable).

T: Parents came over so nipped out for a run 9.34km, 419m of ascent (although I no longer believe this) 01:02.

W: Headed for PyB but gave in to the good weather and went to Milestone Buttress to boulder but after a look around and a couple of very easy problems I decided it was too risky on my own. Finished with a solo of Direct Route (HVD) which was a bit more exciting than anticipated due to the polish (I didn’t even do the last chimney), amazing positions for the grade.

T: Went to  Caseg Fraith Boulder as the landings looked good only to discover I’m too weak for the steeper problems. Decided to drop a rope down Caseg Fraith Arete which I managed to do on a rope but didn’t dare do it properly as I didn’t have enough margin, managed Pedigree Direct (f6B) first go but failed on Old Specked Hen (think I might be missing a crucial crimp)

F: Chain sawing and moving around new ladders gave my shoulders a good work out.

S: Travel to Tenerife

S: Strangely knackered but forced myself to do 5km on treadmill before showing considerably more enthusiasm for the buffet.

Not sure what I’ll do this week given the impending deadline, I expect it’ll be too hot to do any long runs but we’ll see

Morning Liam, good effort phone starting, those boulders look pretty mint!

An excellent birthday week from me, got outdoors three times and came away with a bunch of good ticks!

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Craig Peniel. Mega birthday session. Highlight was the superb Inkerman (f7A+), absolutely wicked climbing. Did a couple of other very fingery 7As too, so I think the the finger is now almost fully healed!

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F - The Ramp Up (f7B+). It goes! Mega chuffed. Felt easy when it went, as they tend to. Gave City Life (f7C) a few goes but one of the fingerjugs was just caked with crud - fired out and punched myself in the face at one point!

S - Rest.

S - Cheeky evening Churnet trip. Tried Propeller Head (f7A) a few times but wasn't keen to continue due to the intense pebble crimping. Basically did Google Earth (f7A+) but couldn't match the finish eventually found a better body position but was too tired. Tried Amarna Stand-start (f7C) but the crux requires some mad leg tension, might not be back on that for a bit to be honest. 

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - City Life, maybe?

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S, S - A day out on the rock!

Goals:

Bulletproof fingers.

The Ramp Up. Tick!

City Life.

Nice work on Ramp Up. Good things come to those that keep trying! Is Rigpa still on the goal list? 

Cheers! I was talking to some mates about this and the answer is "kinda".

I don't think it's worth me trying it until my fingers are 100% ready for that level of cranking. They're on the way there but as it's also warming up it might just have to be one for next winter. Then again, there is still the occasional cold morning, so I could take those opportunities.

Ha ha!

Just for clarity and in case you are even half-serious, keto replaces carb with fat - protein has to stay at 1.5g per kilo of bodyweight per day.  The body can break down any excess protein into sugars, which then disrupts / prevents nutritional ketosis, so fat burning doesn't take place or doesn't trigger so efficiently.  The usual recommendations are 70% fat, 20% protein and 10% max carbohydrate.  What is interesting is that higher levels of fat are really filling in comparison to things like pasta. rice, bread and cakes!

Bear in mind, ketosis should operate simply because of the nutritional balance being eaten - not enough carb (glucose) to fuel everything means a switch to fat being the primary fuel.  Apparently, even a really lean person will have 30,000 to 50,000 calories available in fat storage, so there is plenty to go at!  Lots of people help the process by also adopting time-restricted eating (I do), because extending the period of no food forces glucose stores to deplete and ensures fat-fuelling will start.  It also means that you don't have to measure carbs as carefully (I don't - just only have them in vegetables and fruit form).  The oddest effect is that I go 16 hours in every 24  (8 pm round to midday) with no food (other than milk in coffee or tea) and usually then have two meals only, but don't ever feel hungry now.  Now I happily go off climbing and don't think to eat anything until mid-afternoon - 19 hours in.

All this needs the usual caveats in that I'm not qualified to offer any dietary advice, but I can report how it has worked brilliantly for us.  Enjoy your break (including the cake bar)!

Cheers Liam, had a good week gone by. One that was inspiring and has shifted my goal focus, more to come later.

Monday and Tuesday, off work so time out in the garden and with the kids.

Wednesday, back at work so 1km swim and 10k evening run whilst the youngest was swimming

Thursday, 2km swim and stretch class

Friday, day out in Edale with the youngest and her run club. Absolutely fantastic day. They did some hill time trials first up and then we all went up and had a walk along part of the Skyline. Essentially we went straight up from Edale Village and round to Grindslow Knoll. Whilst it was sunny the wind was ferocious at the head of the valley. It was in the perfect direction to be funnelled up the valley and concentrated so that you were constantly in high pressure wind. I had to keep hold of my daughter to stop her getting blown over and i was able to lean into it without fear of falling. Which at 6 foot 4 and 16 stones is no mean feat. Anyway we all thought this was great fun

It has however given me a shift of focus away from beating my sprint tri time to wanting to run the skyline when we go camping in Castleton over the summer. A shift towards endurance will also help with the Swim Rutland race im entered into for late summer too. Arrangements around work and kids swim training will ensure i cycle at least once a week too so with all of these factors in place im going to do an Olympic tri as well. Not a specific organised event. I will do the swim with my daughter in one of our local lakes, onto the bike for a ride home around the country lanes and then do the run leg with my wife. Happy days.

Saturday was a rest day

Sunday, gentle 7k run with wife and eldest daughter 

I recall an Autumn camping trip in Edale, many years ago, during which a friend of my brother - small, slightly built guy - actually was blown off his feet on Mam Tor. We managed to catch his ankles before he went too far.

Thanks for the phone drafted stats :-D

Fingers crossed I'm over the worst of the lurg now.

Week 16

M – Nowt.

T – Board. Tried hard for the first time in 3 weeks. Managed a 7C; not too shabby. 5x5 axle sumo-DL @80% ~100kg.

W – Nothing.

T – Warmed up for a board session but left lat felt tweaky. Kept it short and lower intensity than Tuesday. Single 7B benchmark and close on another. 4x8 bench press 50kg. 4x8 EZ bicep curl bar+24kg.  Massage gun later for multiple tender bits.

F – Nothing. Mucho DOMS.

S – Strange combination of driving, pest control at in-laws and collecting the new car (we settled on a Mk7.5 Golf).

S – Return to Harmers Wood. Warmed up, then tried The Dark Ark (f7A+) on TR with a shunt. Better than my previous derisory attempts, but still only managed about half the moves (weirdly the supposed crux into the slot at the top went fine, it’s the middle that shut me down).

Thanks again Liam.  Can't imagine sorting this all on a phone!

A reasonable week where I got two sessions of max hangs, pushups and even a few pull ups done.  Both sessions max hangs six sets at 10 secs with 17kg added.  Feels quite hard after eight or nine weeks of elbow rehab; it probably shouldn't as it is about 15 kg lighter than my norm ( have I mentioned my weight loss 😀).  Even more shocking is pull ups - just did three sets of five as  greasing the groove.

Also had a day at Gigg South - also felt tough after no climbing for three weeks.  I was out with s mate who hasn't done a lot outside so we kept it at 6a+ throughout.

Two days planned at Gogarth this week, but managed to squeeze s route in tonight - sun setting over the Irish sea -glorious.

Thanks for the detail Derek, I’ve no intention of going full keto, even if I had the will power, as I’m told it’s pretty unpleasant whilst you transition so I couldn’t risk that at this juncture. I’m hoping that by cutting down in refined carbs that will help. I’ll also keep low intensity  activity levels up (exploring crags after work). 
As a matter of interest what sort of things make up the bulk of your diet as, other than cheese, I’m struggling to think of fatty foods that don’t also include a lot of protein (i.e. meat) or carbs (chips and cream cakes!).

Enjoy Gogarth, I’ve just checked and it’s exactly 10 years since I last did something there (other than Holyhead mountain) which is something I’ll need to rectify this year. 

Neither of us had any problems with transition, though I guess we were gentle.  No sign of keto flu in any case.

Fats are easy.  Yes to cheese, but you find yourself upping vegetable portions and smothering them in butter or olive oil.  Same with salads and dressing. Olive oil and vinegar (also s short chain fatty acid).  Berries and cream for dessert.  I have lots of cheese.  Eggs of course.  Oily fish.  Keto pastry is basically fat.

Much obliged Liam.

A while ago I worked out how many calories I needed to eat to put on weight. I then used that to extrapolate my maintenance calories. For me that was about 2500 a day. 

To lose weight I increase protein to 2g/kg bodyweight and 2250cal a day.

For maintenance i again find protein is key. If i get that in my training and recovery is good and I don't get as hungry. I was keto years ago and that really worked for me. But I only eat chicken now and think i'd get bored.

This week was a week of not much as predicted.

LakesFest 2022 went really well with my highlight being the evening talk with Mary Jenner, Dave Birkett and the Mathesons, compered by Andy Mitchell. A great laugh and a lot of emotion.

We snuck out for a boulder at the Seathwaite circuit (duddon not borrowdale) on Saturday. Lots of easy problems done and one V6, that was soft. 

Back into it slowly this week with a trip to the Orme on Friday for some sport on Mayfair wall.

Ash are you about on Friday?

Hi everyone. Thanks for the top statting Liam -hope you haven't got thumb tendonitis, it will ruin your thumb-spragging!

Yeah, I was quite chuffed with the Windgather session, until I realised that 45 x 8m routes is only like 8 x 45m routes -much less impressive, especially given the grades! Good fun though.

Week 16:

M: Nowt -decided I was too tired from the weekend so delayed my planned session to Tuesday.

T: Trail run. 7.2km, 240m vert, 7:28/km. Leg rehab. Elbow & shoulder prehab.

W: Climbing at Almscliff. Hilarious/ridiculous misadventure across the high man girdle. Highlighted how off the pace I am with trad at the moment... I was basically a case study from 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes! Poor footwork and gear placement meant I got pumped, the pump meant I got scared, the fear made me climb even worse... classic spiral of doom resulting in a lot of aid climbing practice! Basically showed the obvious that I need much more mileage and a focus on building endurance.

T: Hill run -the Espresso Round. 21.4km, 1066m vert, 9:00/km. Amazing evening to be out on the lakeland fells. Confirmed that my running endurance is good but I've lost a lot of strength for steeper uphill.

F: Climbing at Kern Knotts. Pretty tired from previous day and pretty cold and windy, so took a step back in grade and just got some VS mileage in (and seconded some harder stuff).

S: Rest.

S: Leg rehab. Gentle family walk. FB repeaters, strength sesh, core sesh.

Week 17:

M: Rest.

T: Climbing.

W: Leg rehab. Run.

T: FB, strength, core, prehab.

F: Leg rehab. Run.

S: Climbing.

S: FB, strength, core, prehab. Hill sprints or weighted hill walk.

STG -end June:

Arc en ciel.

Ultra distance hill run. 

Eight of my big mountain day list (at least two on consecutive days). (0/8)

Keep injury free (elbows, hips and knees).

MTG -end Sept:

Two big alpine routes.

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink)

ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 2/3, Almscliff 0/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 2/3.

(For lists see FitClub 772)

Late summer/autumn alpine trip.

That looks unreal! Love the idea of in situ iguanas! 

Strong week! Nice work.

That shiny, soapy top chimney on Direct Route is utterly terrifying on solo... I deeply regretted not taking the right hand finish when I did it! 

Sadly not as it’d be great to hook up, I’m still in Tenerife. The Bloods?

Ah never mind. We'll be back again soon.

I could never do the hard move in the middle of the Bloods. I'm sure i'll give it another go.........

If anyone else is taking advantage of the BH weekend to have Friday off we'll be on Mayfair wall.

Just going to try and sneak in a short update. Managed to tick my trad goals last week with

• Moyer's Buttress (E1 5b)
• Commander Energy (E2 5c)
• Eliminator (HVS 5b)

An attempt on

• Black Hawk Bastion (E3 5c)

But wasn't feeling it. Managed to downclimb from the crux and saved for another day.

Next week

Pembroke. (Here now...drinking coffee in the tent sheltering from the rain. Fingers crossed!)

Cheers. Weather starting to turn a bit so may start doing a bit of training indoors.

Last Week
---------------

Monday

Trail Run Castleton/Mam Tor 8km/360m

Tuesday

Bouldering at  Pex Hill Quarry. Not the most aesthetic of venues but can see its training potential for locals. Probably won't be returning any time soon though. A few laps on the Pex Hill Traverse.

Thursday

Drive to Pembroke

Friday

A handful of routes at  Penally West but was a bit unprepared and didn't have the definitive guide which was a shame. Rusty Slab (VS 4c) was a highlight.

Saturday

Attempt on Keelhaul (E2 5c). Conditions weren't great with humidity on the high side but should still have been able to do it. Bit of a failure to commit to the moves below the overhang. Slightly frustrated with this one but may return later in the year for unfinished business.

Getting on any E3s this trip had gone out the window by this point.

Sunday

Bit of a washout but managed a couple of routes in the afternoon at  Saddle Head

Next Week
---------------

Return to training

• Two AeroPow sessions. One should be laps on the lead wall.
• Max hang session
• A Strength and Conditioning session
• 20km trail running
• At least 2 leads at E1 or above. 1 at E2.