UKC

Contributed by bergsget 11/Aug/25 - This public ticklist has been seen 111 times

The list is based on the book Im extremen fels (extreme rock routes) initially published 1970. It has been republished 3 times with a slightly changed selection of routes and now there are 120 routes. The beaty with the list is that it spans the whole alps and focuses on rock climbing at the extreme level from the 70-ies so around 6a-6b (some are quite alpine though).

Some of the routes have ceased to exist due to rock fall but are included nevertheless.

(I realize that many routes are not in UKC database, will update this going forward, be patient)

Sunset from Bivi on Walker Spur  © Charles Pickles
Sunset from Bivi on Walker Spur
© Charles Pickles, Jul 2019

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st bergsget 15% 18 Aug
2nd tom.wp6 2% 9 Aug

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Felicity abbing off the summit block of the Salbitchijen after a long day climbing the west ridge © Lankcroft

West Ridge
Felicity abbing off the summit block of the Salbitchijen after a long day climbing the west ridge
© Lankcroft

On the stunning mixed ramp that leads to the upper icefield on the Croz, Grandes Jorasses © Jon Griffith

Croz Spur
On the stunning mixed ramp that leads to the upper icefield on the Croz, Grandes Jorasses
© Jon Griffith

Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable © Hamish Frost

Arête du Diable Traverse
Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable
© Hamish Frost

Cassin Route - Piz Badile! © Kevin Avery

Cassin
Cassin Route - Piz Badile!
© Kevin Avery

On the penultimate ice pitch of the Croz spur, Grandes Jorasses © Jon Griffith

Croz Spur
On the penultimate ice pitch of the Croz spur, Grandes Jorasses
© Jon Griffith

Thomas Gianola & Jacob Harmer on Comici-Dimai, Cima Grande (E3) © JacobHarmer

Comici-Dimai
Thomas Gianola & Jacob Harmer on Comici-Dimai, Cima Grande (E3)
© JacobHarmer

Comici-Dimai © David Coley

Comici-Dimai
Comici-Dimai
© David Coley

Crossing the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey with the wild south side of Mont Blanc in front of us © Hamish Frost

Peutérey Integral
Crossing the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey with the wild south side of Mont Blanc in front of us
© Hamish Frost

Ted hanging around on the South Face finish of the Petit Dru. © Josh Willett

The North Face
Ted hanging around on the South Face finish of the Petit Dru.
© Josh Willett

On the immaculate snow ridge that leads to the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur © Hamish Frost

Peutérey Integral
On the immaculate snow ridge that leads to the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
© Hamish Frost

Comici...... solo.... gulp! © andyinglis

Comici-Dimai
Comici...... solo.... gulp!
© andyinglis

Nearing the finish of the Salbit Westgrat © fibonacci moose

West Ridge
Nearing the finish of the Salbit Westgrat
© fibonacci moose


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
FRANCE
Pilier Central (Devies-Gervasutti Route) ED1 *** 6 1,000m L'Ailefroide
North Face - George Russenberger ED1 - ? Pic Sans Nom
South Pillar TD 5c *** 39 1,100m Barre des Écrins
Pierre-Allain (South Face Direct) TD 5c *** 26 800m • 26 La Meije
North-West Face V - ? L'Olan
Couzy-Demaison ED1 - 300m Mont Aiguille
CHAMONIX
Aiguille Noire de Peutérey TD+ 4 *** 52 1,100m • 42 Mont Blanc
Central Pillar of Freney ED1 5c *** 23 ? Mont Blanc
Arête du Diable Traverse D+ 5c *** 94 600m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Bonatti-Ghigo ED1 7a *** 26 470m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Ratti-Vittali TD+ 5 650m • 25 Mont Blanc
Walker Spur ED1 6a *** 79 1,200m Grandes Jorasses
Croz Spur ED1 *** 16 1,000m Grandes Jorasses
Contamine Route TD 6a ** 56 ? Petites Jorasses
American Direct ED1 6c+ *** 52 1,050m Les Dru
Tournier Spur Direct ED1 5c *** 16 ? Les Droites
Peutérey Integral ED1 4 *** 27 ? Mont Blanc
The North Face TD+ 6a *** 64 850m Les Dru
Swiss Route TD+ 6b+ *** 144 320m • 17 Mont Blanc du Tacul
Bonatti Pillar TD *** 21 ? Les Dru
SWITZERLAND
Southeast Ridge TD- - ? Bietschhorn
North Face Direct ED2 - ? Wetterhorn
Northeast Face (Lüthy-Steuri) (Classic Route) 5c *** 27 500m • 18 Engelhörner
Inwyler-Bielmeier 6a+ *** 4 450m • 14 Tällistock -...
West Ridge ED1 6b *** 106 1,000m • 35 Salbitschijen
Graue Wand (Niedermann) 5c 38 400m • 11 Graue Wand
Cassin TD ** 247 ? Piz Badile
Northwest Pillar (Gaiser-Lehmann) TD *** 7 1,100m • 29 Pizzo Cengalo
Pizzi Gemelli N-ridge TD 6a ** - 850m • 25 Pizzi Gemelli
North West Ridge "Fuorikante" TD- * 4 600m Sciora Dafora
Direkte Nordwand 6a+ 4 450m • 11 Bockmattli
Alte Süd 6b+ 2 ? • 13 Churfirsten
Rot turm & Südverschneidung (South corner route) - Niederman 6a+ - 350m • 13 Hundstein
GERMANY
AUSTRIA
Grundschartner North Ridge (Nordkante) TD- 6a *** 3 750m • 18 Grundschartner
Fußsteinkante V- 6 450m • 12 Fusstein
Schinkoverschneidung VII- *** 1 850m • 22 Dachstein
Nordwand (Diagonale) 6a+ - 350m • 12 Gesause
Südostwand VII - 370m Hochschwab
Westkante (Schartenspitze) VII 2 250m • 8 Hochschwab
Rädlergrat AD 1 850m • 10 Himmelhorn
Feldkopfkante 5c - 800m • 13 Zsigmondyspitze
ITALY
Comici-Dimai VII+ *** 191 550m • 18 Tre Cime
Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete V+ *** 77 400m • 15 Punta Fiames
Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge) VI+ *** 119 350m • 13 Tre Cime
79 stars 1,585 22,110m 441
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