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My vote goes to Original Route on Old Man of Stoer.
It's an expedition with a swim (and/or Tyrolean traverse), great climbing including a tough initial traverse, sound rock, exposure and continuing interest, followed by an airy ab, and finally the Tyrolean again. A superb day out.
It's an expedition with a swim (and/or Tyrolean traverse), great climbing including a tough initial traverse, sound rock, exposure and continuing interest, followed by an airy ab, and finally the Tyrolean again. A superb day out.
In reply to Trangia: Can't think of just one; so much depends on how you felt about the experience you had at the time. However, for me three rate particularly highly: South Face Direct on Chair Ladder, Eliminate A on Dow and Eagle Front in Buttermere.
T.
T.
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
The one on Cloggy that starts with a layback... can't remember the name. The first time I experienced any real exposure.
The one on Cloggy that starts with a layback... can't remember the name. The first time I experienced any real exposure.
In reply to Bruce Hooker: Curving Bruce?
In reply to Trangia:
The Girdle traverse of Buckstone How, is the one that comes to mind.
The Girdle traverse of Buckstone How, is the one that comes to mind.
In reply to a lakeland climber:
I really want to do that one, is it VS or Scottish VS, it`s one I have fancied for 2 or 3 years now.
> (In reply to Trangia)
>
> Fionn Buttress, Carnmore.
>
> ALC
>
> Fionn Buttress, Carnmore.
>
> ALC
I really want to do that one, is it VS or Scottish VS, it`s one I have fancied for 2 or 3 years now.
In reply to Trangia:
So many...
Probably Haste Not. Although South Ridge Direct, The Emperors New Toes and Chee Tor Girdle are hot on its heals.
So many...
Probably Haste Not. Although South Ridge Direct, The Emperors New Toes and Chee Tor Girdle are hot on its heals.
In reply to Trangia:
Osiris on Lewes Castle in the Gower. Not done many tho, so I'm not able to trot out a list of classics. My first VS was rather memorable, Terry's Crack at Trebanog (in the Valleys) and I like Flight at Symonds Yat.
Osiris on Lewes Castle in the Gower. Not done many tho, so I'm not able to trot out a list of classics. My first VS was rather memorable, Terry's Crack at Trebanog (in the Valleys) and I like Flight at Symonds Yat.
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Good list. I'd add Overhanging Bastion and Engineers Slab into the pot.
Good list. I'd add Overhanging Bastion and Engineers Slab into the pot.
In reply to Trangia: Pretty much all those suggested so far feature on the 100 best VS list I compiled a while back:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52
I got so many suggestions I put together a second list too:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=147
The best VS day I've had was on Dow - we did Eliminate A, Murray's Direct and Eliminate C (14 pitches, three descents and a long walk in and out) just managed to make last orders in Coniston to celebrate.
Benny at Swanage was another memorable experience, and for single pitch Armorican in North Pembs. is exquisite.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52
I got so many suggestions I put together a second list too:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=147
The best VS day I've had was on Dow - we did Eliminate A, Murray's Direct and Eliminate C (14 pitches, three descents and a long walk in and out) just managed to make last orders in Coniston to celebrate.
Benny at Swanage was another memorable experience, and for single pitch Armorican in North Pembs. is exquisite.
In reply to Trangia:
Single pitch it's got to be The Night Watch at Whitestone Cliffe. Even Chris Craggs is on record as saying he couldn't think of a better one
Multi pitch, not done a huge number, but Eliminate A so far.
Single pitch it's got to be The Night Watch at Whitestone Cliffe. Even Chris Craggs is on record as saying he couldn't think of a better one
Multi pitch, not done a huge number, but Eliminate A so far.
In reply to Trangia:
I've not done m(any) of the big, classic Vs's, but ones that have stuck in my memory...
Piggott's Stride, Almscliffe.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=72994
Rob's crack, Fairy Cave.
Nozag at Castle Naze,
Hargreaves' Original Route, though that was probably becasue I on-sight soloed it and it scared the bejesus out of me..
I've not done m(any) of the big, classic Vs's, but ones that have stuck in my memory...
Piggott's Stride, Almscliffe.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=72994
Rob's crack, Fairy Cave.
Nozag at Castle Naze,
Hargreaves' Original Route, though that was probably becasue I on-sight soloed it and it scared the bejesus out of me..
In reply to The Ivanator:
So you did. I've done 23 and 12 respectively, which is rather more than I expected!
So you did. I've done 23 and 12 respectively, which is rather more than I expected!
In reply to sjc:
Fionn Buttress is VS. Scottish VS only exists on a few obscure route nowadays, not a classic like this.
> I really want to do that one, is it VS or Scottish VS, it`s one I have fancied for 2 or 3 years now.
Fionn Buttress is VS. Scottish VS only exists on a few obscure route nowadays, not a classic like this.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
Thanks, it`s a long drive followed by a long walk to be sandbagged
Thanks, it`s a long drive followed by a long walk to be sandbagged
In reply to Trangia: Green Light in Smurf Zawn, South Stack... just ludicrously brilliant!
My vote is for Albion on Lundy. The middle pitch is 40 odd metres of every corner/crack technique you can think of, all well protected and all with the expanse of the Devil's Slide behind you.
In reply to Trangia:
Right Angle (var), Gurnard's Head, Cornwall. Pretty epic, brooding position, especially in a swell. A well-placed hanging belay adds to the experience. A strong climbing memory.
Right Angle (var), Gurnard's Head, Cornwall. Pretty epic, brooding position, especially in a swell. A well-placed hanging belay adds to the experience. A strong climbing memory.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
ALC
I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
ALC
In reply to Trangia: I don't know if this counts as the grade isn't VS but 14.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=645
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=645
In reply to Trangia:
A LOT to pick from, but I think I'd pop for Overhanging Bastion...I just remember climbing that narrowing ramp line and then, once it had got too narrow, committing to the move I really didn't want to do but which was also the only one I *could* do.
A LOT to pick from, but I think I'd pop for Overhanging Bastion...I just remember climbing that narrowing ramp line and then, once it had got too narrow, committing to the move I really didn't want to do but which was also the only one I *could* do.
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Yes, I think that's it, at least I know I did that looking at the photos on ukc albums. There is another VS up there too which was pretty spectacular and would merit being on the list, but the name's too far gone. I remember a pitch on a long fairly narrow slab, would that be Longland's Climb? Either of them are excellent VS routes by any standards.
> (In reply to Bruce Hooker) Curving Bruce?
Yes, I think that's it, at least I know I did that looking at the photos on ukc albums. There is another VS up there too which was pretty spectacular and would merit being on the list, but the name's too far gone. I remember a pitch on a long fairly narrow slab, would that be Longland's Climb? Either of them are excellent VS routes by any standards.
In reply to Trangia: Nightw*tch, whitestone cliffe, is the best single pitch vs in the country.
In reply to a lakeland climber:
It's a long time since I did it myself, but I had several opinions saying 5a for that pitch although I don't remember it being any harder. There were even suggestions that a hold had come off.
>
> I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
>
> ALC
> I thought it was quite pushy in places for VS especially the first real pitch up the slab which you need to keep cool on. The pitch that's graded 5a is actually more intimidating than hard - the pitch beneath (the corner) is harder - I'd say the 5a pitch is 4c tops. Mostly it's just exposed!
>
> ALC
It's a long time since I did it myself, but I had several opinions saying 5a for that pitch although I don't remember it being any harder. There were even suggestions that a hold had come off.
In reply to Trangia: Slip Knot on White Ghyll
In reply to Trangia: we had a great day on south Ridge direct ,company and weather made it one of the best
In reply to Trangia: Another vote for South Ridge Direct. Breaking the ice on the puddle in the bucket hold on the S Crack was a shock and it snowed on the last pitch. A day of endless, excellent granite.
In reply to Trangia:
One in each country - Fionn Buttress, Eliminate A and Mur y Niwl. Each superb and impossible for me to rank any one above the others. South Face Direct (Chair Ladder) and Mousetrap on the Dubh Loch very close behind.
One in each country - Fionn Buttress, Eliminate A and Mur y Niwl. Each superb and impossible for me to rank any one above the others. South Face Direct (Chair Ladder) and Mousetrap on the Dubh Loch very close behind.
In reply to Trangia: Freedom at Wyntour's leap. Lovely climb, one I am happy to repeat I enjoyed it that much.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Mousetrap was nice especially second pitch but I enjoyed Black Mamba even more. Stunning place just to go and chill. The mighty Cyclops has got to be a contendor for greatest HVS ever. Even Bob Durran says so and he's da man!!!!
In reply to the weegy:
Mousetrap and Black Mamba over 2 days with an overnight at the Glas-Allt Sheil has to be my best weekend's climbing ever. Very contrasting routes; one intricate and slabby, the other direct and forceful. Cyclops did look very good indeed.
Mousetrap and Black Mamba over 2 days with an overnight at the Glas-Allt Sheil has to be my best weekend's climbing ever. Very contrasting routes; one intricate and slabby, the other direct and forceful. Cyclops did look very good indeed.
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
I'd say 4c/5a borderline (but strenuous and intimidating) for the Fionn Buttress "crux". I certainly felt more doubt over the sketchily-protected 4c moves on the slab, although there is some ambiguity about the best line. I also think that the short corner is worth 4c.
I'd say 4c/5a borderline (but strenuous and intimidating) for the Fionn Buttress "crux". I certainly felt more doubt over the sketchily-protected 4c moves on the slab, although there is some ambiguity about the best line. I also think that the short corner is worth 4c.
In reply to Trangia:
North West Arete - Gimmer
North West Arete - Gimmer
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: That combo along with the overnighter sounds fantastic. Scottish rock at it's best.
In reply to Trangia:
youtube.com/watch?v=zqyxexVyZgs&
youtube.com/watch?v=qsBck_I2bMA&
Both routes and days out equal to two certain elderly gentleman living in Scotland.
youtube.com/watch?v=zqyxexVyZgs&
youtube.com/watch?v=qsBck_I2bMA&
Both routes and days out equal to two certain elderly gentleman living in Scotland.
In reply to Trangia: A couple of routes spring to mind - whether they are the best or not is neither here nor there!
Bird on a Wire in Range West, Pembroke - finally did it last August and it was brilliant - not difficult but absolutely absorbing climbing all the way up, also taking into consideration the access issues and the abbing into a zawn.
The other one is Necromancer at Goblin Combe which i finally led a couple months ago - yes it is polished, yes it is a b*gger but it was great - i had nearly got to second it twice years ago but both times my leaders had backed off at the going left bit which i found easy. And with a perplexing finish - I know i need to get there, but how do i get there? conundrum.
Just thought of another one - Pink 'un at Saddle Head, Pembroke - lovely lovely climbing.
Also there is Little Sepulcure(?)in The Pass - a bit of an uphill trek to get to but well worth it.
Bird on a Wire in Range West, Pembroke - finally did it last August and it was brilliant - not difficult but absolutely absorbing climbing all the way up, also taking into consideration the access issues and the abbing into a zawn.
The other one is Necromancer at Goblin Combe which i finally led a couple months ago - yes it is polished, yes it is a b*gger but it was great - i had nearly got to second it twice years ago but both times my leaders had backed off at the going left bit which i found easy. And with a perplexing finish - I know i need to get there, but how do i get there? conundrum.
Just thought of another one - Pink 'un at Saddle Head, Pembroke - lovely lovely climbing.
Also there is Little Sepulcure(?)in The Pass - a bit of an uphill trek to get to but well worth it.
In reply to Trangia:
Eliminate A (Dow), Eagle Front (Buttermere), Blue Sky (Pembs), Direct Route (Mot)
Eliminate A (Dow), Eagle Front (Buttermere), Blue Sky (Pembs), Direct Route (Mot)
In reply to Southern Man:
Yes, a brilliant and underrated route, I think the less than inspiring name is one of the reasons its under-rated.
> (In reply to Trangia)
>
> South Face Direct at Chair Ladder for sure.
>
> South Face Direct at Chair Ladder for sure.
Yes, a brilliant and underrated route, I think the less than inspiring name is one of the reasons its under-rated.
In reply to Trangia:
By country,
Scotland: Great Prow (OK not the best but certainly most memorable)
England: Tough call between Diocese, Overhanging Bastion or Engineers Slab. Probably Diocese, just
Wales: Surprised others haven't come up with this yet but probably Lavaredo. Blue Sky runs a close second.
By country,
Scotland: Great Prow (OK not the best but certainly most memorable)
England: Tough call between Diocese, Overhanging Bastion or Engineers Slab. Probably Diocese, just
Wales: Surprised others haven't come up with this yet but probably Lavaredo. Blue Sky runs a close second.
In reply to Mr. Lee:
I'd agree with that. Way, way better than expected.
> (In reply to Trangia)
>
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
>
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
I'd agree with that. Way, way better than expected.
In reply to Trangia: A toss up between Inkerman Groove at Chudliegh (for the struggle) and Lost Horizon at Baggy (for the superb day I climbed it on). Today I'd edge towards Lost Horizon as the best, but it would probably be a different answer tomorrow.
One Step in the Clouds at Tremadog. That's what 3* VS is all about.
In reply to janko440:
That's not even the best VS on White Ghyll! Go and do Haste Not.
> (In reply to Trangia) Slip Knot on White Ghyll
That's not even the best VS on White Ghyll! Go and do Haste Not.
In reply to victim of mathematics: It's not even the second best VS on White Ghyll, after Haste Knot try a little Gordian Knot.
In reply to Trangia:
An interesting point that's shown up in this thread is that factors affect people's perception of what makes a "good" climb are a) the company you do it with, and b) the weather. Thinking about it these are very much part of the reason why we climb, and have as much bearing on the perception of "enjoyment" as does the quality of the actual climb/rock.
An interesting point that's shown up in this thread is that factors affect people's perception of what makes a "good" climb are a) the company you do it with, and b) the weather. Thinking about it these are very much part of the reason why we climb, and have as much bearing on the perception of "enjoyment" as does the quality of the actual climb/rock.
In reply to Trangia: Very true, as I pointed out on another recent thread:
"You can also have a throughly good time on a route that isn't good."
..."Or conversely have a right mare on a route that is good. Can think of occasions when I've bitten off more than I can chew or climbed when hungover when this has been the case.
Sometimes I've been aware of how sharply my experience of a route contrasts with my partner's - I loved getting soaked by waves on Right Angle, brilliant adventure - my partner (probably sensibly) wasn't so enthused!"
"You can also have a throughly good time on a route that isn't good."
..."Or conversely have a right mare on a route that is good. Can think of occasions when I've bitten off more than I can chew or climbed when hungover when this has been the case.
Sometimes I've been aware of how sharply my experience of a route contrasts with my partner's - I loved getting soaked by waves on Right Angle, brilliant adventure - my partner (probably sensibly) wasn't so enthused!"
In reply to Trangia: Little Brown Jug at Bosigran is good but let down a little by the 2nd pitch. I believe that it is being upgraded to HVS in the new CC South West Climbs however as the peg is no longer there and it is now a little bolder so may not count.
Al
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: There is good nut placements near the stump of the old peg, I enjoyed LBJ, but thought it was fairly standard difficulty for a VS (maybe just merits the 5a tech grade), can't see why the adjectival grade would be adjusted.
Grade creep is excusable when it prevents sandbagging, but this is not such a case - but don't get me started on why Tatra at Swanage is still VS.
Grade creep is excusable when it prevents sandbagging, but this is not such a case - but don't get me started on why Tatra at Swanage is still VS.
In reply to The Ivanator: Not sure I agree. VS,5a is for a start one of those idiosyncratic grades so by making the gear placement just a little less straightforward HVS does not seem unreasonable. I did it for the umpteenth time a couple of weeks ago but as I was seconding my judgement could be flawed as I did not pay much attention. My leader got gear in below and above the peg placement but it did seem a little more run-out. I did a couple of HVS's that weekend however that felt considerably harder. Colomen at Trewavas even got VS in my guide and T-Tours at Bosigran felt tough for HVS so perhaps I was just not climbing well. It was cold and damp.
Al
Al
In reply to Trangia: Eliminate A, Dow.
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: Think I agee with Ivanator (although I am going on memory). Never thought this was terribly tough - certainly not the groove which seems to be the source of the tough reputation.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Exactly my memory, and feelings about it.
> (In reply to Al Randall) There is good nut placements near the stump of the old peg, I enjoyed LBJ, but thought it was fairly standard difficulty for a VS (maybe just merits the 5a tech grade), can't see why the adjectival grade would be adjusted.
Exactly my memory, and feelings about it.
In reply to Trangia:
Hard to choose a favourite, but here are a few:
Satan's Slit, June Crack, Hiccup (Buachaille)
Clean Sweep (Hell's Lum Crag)
Shangri-La (Cuillin)
South Ridge Direct, Hammer (Arran)
King Bee (Creag Dubh)
Giant's Cave Buttress (Avon Gorge)
Whither Wether (Cobbler)
The Groove (Dunkeld)
M
Hard to choose a favourite, but here are a few:
Satan's Slit, June Crack, Hiccup (Buachaille)
Clean Sweep (Hell's Lum Crag)
Shangri-La (Cuillin)
South Ridge Direct, Hammer (Arran)
King Bee (Creag Dubh)
Giant's Cave Buttress (Avon Gorge)
Whither Wether (Cobbler)
The Groove (Dunkeld)
M
In reply to Trangia: There was a poll done on it's readers by one of the climbing magazines to find the best VS's in the Uk, I can't remember how many. But I do remember Eliminate A won, and got my vote. I was pleased to see that one of my own routes came number 8!
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
If we're talking Cornwall, Little Brown Jug is nowhere near as good as South Face Direct on Chair Ladder.
> (In reply to Trangia) Little Brown Jug at Bosigran is good but let down a little by the 2nd pitch. I believe that it is being upgraded to HVS in the new CC South West Climbs however as the peg is no longer there and it is now a little bolder so may not count.
>
> Al
>
> Al
If we're talking Cornwall, Little Brown Jug is nowhere near as good as South Face Direct on Chair Ladder.
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Ok, it was Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow
> (In reply to Al Evans) Do share Al, enquiring readers wish to know.
>
> T.
>
> T.
Ok, it was Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow
In reply to Al Evans: Of course, should've guessed but I'm obviously a bit slow this morning. And a fine route it is too, that deserves to be up there.
T.
T.
In reply to Al Evans:
I thought the winner was something bizarre like Suspension Flake? Or was that a different poll.
I thought the winner was something bizarre like Suspension Flake? Or was that a different poll.
In reply to Toreador: Must have been, I'm fairly sure Eliminate A won the readers poll, and as I say it got my vote, can anybody remember what mag it was?
In reply to Trangia: I really enjoyed Tower Face at Laddow top notch!
In reply to Trangia:
I read this thread and then thought 'I've not done any multi-pitch VS routes!'
So, my favourite VS is going to be sinlge pitch grit, probably a toss up between Qien Sabe, Gargoyle Flake and Gunpowder Crack (all at Bamford)
I read this thread and then thought 'I've not done any multi-pitch VS routes!'
So, my favourite VS is going to be sinlge pitch grit, probably a toss up between Qien Sabe, Gargoyle Flake and Gunpowder Crack (all at Bamford)
In reply to Trangia: Diocese,Overhanging bastion and for single pitch nightw*tch all not got any backing yet ;O(
Is botterills slab VS ?
F route and northwest arete is a cracking VS combo !!
Is botterills slab VS ?
F route and northwest arete is a cracking VS combo !!
In reply to jas wood:
I suggested Night Watch within an hour of the original post
Sam Marks suggested it too.
I suggested Night Watch within an hour of the original post
Sam Marks suggested it too.
In reply to Trangia: I loved Diocese, Little Brown Jug and South Face Direct. In that order.
Led p1 of Diocese, flailed my way up the very wet chimney into shit cave. Then seconded the lovely traverse. So good.
LBJ was just continuously perfect climbing the whole way. Nice
South Face Direct felt pretty straight up, but good good climbing
Led p1 of Diocese, flailed my way up the very wet chimney into shit cave. Then seconded the lovely traverse. So good.
LBJ was just continuously perfect climbing the whole way. Nice
South Face Direct felt pretty straight up, but good good climbing
In reply to Trangia: Not the hardest and certainly not the longest but the most satisfying I ever climbed was lorraine at bowden when I was younger and really climbing well. Turned into one of those solos where you carry a rack and drag a rope up for no real reason. Romped up. Nowadays i'd be struggling to get off the ground.
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
I thought Little Brown jug didnt have a 5a move unless you blocked the handhold with an unneccesary runner. Tough but fair VS and utterly brilliant.
I thought Little Brown jug didnt have a 5a move unless you blocked the handhold with an unneccesary runner. Tough but fair VS and utterly brilliant.
In reply to Trangia:
Still no mention of The Edge at Loudon Hill, the best VS I know. You climb up the edge of a flake that sticks out five metres from the face. The exposure is intense and it is a bit bold (but safe,) but it is the rock feature that makes it great.
Still no mention of The Edge at Loudon Hill, the best VS I know. You climb up the edge of a flake that sticks out five metres from the face. The exposure is intense and it is a bit bold (but safe,) but it is the rock feature that makes it great.
In reply to Trangia:
South Ridge Direct of the Rosa Pinnacle. No contest - though I've not done Fionn Buttress!
South Ridge Direct of the Rosa Pinnacle. No contest - though I've not done Fionn Buttress!
In reply to Trangia: Fionn Buttress for me. Though the Old Man of Stoer and South Ridge Direct are close behind. All three combine superb climbing with wonderful locations. They also require a fair bit of effort (in different ways) just to get to the start of the route.
In reply to Trangia: Good thread! Eliminate A is now on the hit list! What about Gimmer Crack - which is top of my list and I can't believe I've never done it!
I think I have to agree with the OP that the Old Man of Stoer is the best VS I've ever done. It took two visits for the weather to permit the sea crossing BECAUSE IT'S AN ISLAND!! You then have 5 pitches of 'grit style' climbing which is the easiest route to the summit of the island and then you've got a wild ab off! All factors in I don't think you can beat it, or not easily anyway!
Regarding best HVS - I did the Cyclops last week and it's pretty damn good, but not a patch on Chequers Buttress!
The Baron
I think I have to agree with the OP that the Old Man of Stoer is the best VS I've ever done. It took two visits for the weather to permit the sea crossing BECAUSE IT'S AN ISLAND!! You then have 5 pitches of 'grit style' climbing which is the easiest route to the summit of the island and then you've got a wild ab off! All factors in I don't think you can beat it, or not easily anyway!
Regarding best HVS - I did the Cyclops last week and it's pretty damn good, but not a patch on Chequers Buttress!
The Baron
In reply to Trangia:
lost horizons - and good value for the grade - more a personal best really but still a brilliant route!
lost horizons - and good value for the grade - more a personal best really but still a brilliant route!
In reply to Trangia:
Can't decide. They were 'best' for different reasons.
Single pitch has to be a toss up between Armorican, Scavenger or Lost Horizon.
Multi pitch, probably Mur y Niwl, with Anvil Chorus coming a close second. Haven't done any multipitch VS in the Lakes yet though.
Can't decide. They were 'best' for different reasons.
Single pitch has to be a toss up between Armorican, Scavenger or Lost Horizon.
Multi pitch, probably Mur y Niwl, with Anvil Chorus coming a close second. Haven't done any multipitch VS in the Lakes yet though.
In reply to AlH:
I agree South Ridge Direct as good long VS and seem to remember a wee fright at the top of either Y or S crack!.
Closer to hand I quite like Citadel too, as a long and committing VS mountaineering route with amazing situations....
I enjoy long multi-pitch VS's on big crags rather than short single pitch routes!
I agree South Ridge Direct as good long VS and seem to remember a wee fright at the top of either Y or S crack!.
Closer to hand I quite like Citadel too, as a long and committing VS mountaineering route with amazing situations....
I enjoy long multi-pitch VS's on big crags rather than short single pitch routes!
In reply to teflonpete:
Single pitch: Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow, Lancs - do before the crack gets any wider!
Multi Pitch: Eliminate C at Dow Crag
Single pitch: Jean Jeanie at Trowbarrow, Lancs - do before the crack gets any wider!
Multi Pitch: Eliminate C at Dow Crag
In reply to Trangia:
Three Pebble Slab at Frogatt
I always thought it was going to be a soft touch E1, then some wag said it's HVS, when I solo'd it I called it VS - but that's 'cos I'm a knobhead
Three Pebble Slab at Frogatt
I always thought it was going to be a soft touch E1, then some wag said it's HVS, when I solo'd it I called it VS - but that's 'cos I'm a knobhead
In reply to Trangia:
Another vote for South Ridge Direct. Friends who have done Fionn Buttress were raving about it too.
Another vote for South Ridge Direct. Friends who have done Fionn Buttress were raving about it too.
In reply to Mike_Watson_99: Every now and again I get a bit jaded with climbing, but any mention of the South Ridge rekindles the fire in me. Must go there soon with No 2 son!
In reply to Mr. Lee:
I'd be inclined to agree with that, it was one of my first outdoor routes having only climbed indoors and about mid way though it dawned on me falling off seconding would be the same as falling of leading it. I must go back and sample it again now that i'm more experienced.
> (In reply to Trangia)
>
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
>
> The Angel's Girdle at Wintours was awesome.
I'd be inclined to agree with that, it was one of my first outdoor routes having only climbed indoors and about mid way though it dawned on me falling off seconding would be the same as falling of leading it. I must go back and sample it again now that i'm more experienced.
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
It looks like its only me that was dissapointed with S.Ridge Direct. I just rememember it as being a bit of a bimble with only one or two very short bits ot climbing interest.
It looks like its only me that was dissapointed with S.Ridge Direct. I just rememember it as being a bit of a bimble with only one or two very short bits ot climbing interest.
In reply to GrahamD: I wasn't overly impressed but since I did it in rain which went from persistent to heavy throughout, I'm prepared to admit that circumstances weren't ideal.
That said, even in rain and with rucksacks we soloed to the S crack and for some of the way after the Y crack, so though it was long, it wasn't sustained.
T.
That said, even in rain and with rucksacks we soloed to the S crack and for some of the way after the Y crack, so though it was long, it wasn't sustained.
T.
In reply to The Ivanator:
In fact it's not even the third, 4th or 5th best VS on White Gill, try White Ghyll Wall, Hitcher and Moss Wall first!
> (In reply to victim of mathematics) It's not even the second best VS on White Ghyll, after Haste Knot try a little Gordian Knot.
In fact it's not even the third, 4th or 5th best VS on White Gill, try White Ghyll Wall, Hitcher and Moss Wall first!
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I did it in the rain too, and we aided the Y Cracks so badly that we had to wave away a rescue helicopter that came in really close because we looked in so much trouble.
In reply to the thread:
Has anyone mentioned Scabbard on Etchachan yet? The best VS I've done in Scotland
I did it in the rain too, and we aided the Y Cracks so badly that we had to wave away a rescue helicopter that came in really close because we looked in so much trouble.
In reply to the thread:
Has anyone mentioned Scabbard on Etchachan yet? The best VS I've done in Scotland
In reply to Trangia: Overhanging Bastion on Castle Crag
Mur-v-Niwl http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29164 is a belter for wales.
Though for a valley route in Wales, Laverado is an unsung Gem. I remember being on the belay stance and having a long and drawn out discussion along the lines of "A VS can't possibly go up there". But it does and it's ace...
Mur-v-Niwl http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=29164 is a belter for wales.
Though for a valley route in Wales, Laverado is an unsung Gem. I remember being on the belay stance and having a long and drawn out discussion along the lines of "A VS can't possibly go up there". But it does and it's ace...
In reply to Trangia:
A few routes spring to mind:
Valkyrie at the Roaches
Little Brown Jug at Bosigran
Freedom at Wintour's Leap
The Angel's Girdle at Wintour's Leap
Curving Crack at Cloggy
Diocese at Chair Ladder
A few routes spring to mind:
Valkyrie at the Roaches
Little Brown Jug at Bosigran
Freedom at Wintour's Leap
The Angel's Girdle at Wintour's Leap
Curving Crack at Cloggy
Diocese at Chair Ladder
In reply to Trangia:
Immediate answer before reading the read. Blue sky, pembroke.
But I like Eliminate A, Eagle front, great slab on cloggy, munich climb on tryfan the shroud on black crag borrowdale and arch slab, gower
Immediate answer before reading the read. Blue sky, pembroke.
But I like Eliminate A, Eagle front, great slab on cloggy, munich climb on tryfan the shroud on black crag borrowdale and arch slab, gower
In reply to chris wyatt: Went and did Eliminate A yesterday, and it was really good - but after all I had heard about it I have to say I don't think it lived up to expectation as the best VS ever - for one thing it felt more like HS.
I did Gimmer Crack at the end of April and for my money that's a far better route. Perfect line, sustained standard of climbing with spicy bit's on each pitch
The Baron
I did Gimmer Crack at the end of April and for my money that's a far better route. Perfect line, sustained standard of climbing with spicy bit's on each pitch
The Baron
Integrity. (Is that a VS? Don't recall, don't really care, it's ace.)
Mousetrap.
The Groove.
Mousetrap.
The Groove.
In reply to Double Knee Bar: yep a great 3 star VS,
and Striptease isn't bad for the price also,
another favourite would be Rap, Gogarth great spot big holds plenty of gear and it's on Gogarth , have a mentioned that
and Striptease isn't bad for the price also,
another favourite would be Rap, Gogarth great spot big holds plenty of gear and it's on Gogarth , have a mentioned that
In reply to all:
Off topic, but the worst 3 star VS i've done is Inkerman Groove at Chudleigh - I don't see what all the fuss is about
Off topic, but the worst 3 star VS i've done is Inkerman Groove at Chudleigh - I don't see what all the fuss is about
In reply to Trangia:
Corrugation Corner, Lovers Leap, California - it's the best VS in the Universe!
Corrugation Corner, Lovers Leap, California - it's the best VS in the Universe!
In reply to Trangia:
One of the best was Mickeldore Grooves on Scafell East and a perfect venue for this weather. Hard start though - I needed to aid it as a second.
One of the best was Mickeldore Grooves on Scafell East and a perfect venue for this weather. Hard start though - I needed to aid it as a second.
In reply to Robert Durran:
I'd say Fionn Buttress blows the tits off South Ridge Direct, and the latter isn't exactly bad.
I'd say Fionn Buttress blows the tits off South Ridge Direct, and the latter isn't exactly bad.
In reply to Trangia:
Same here. In England Botterill's Slab was a superb day out. Can't think of Welsh VS I've done that stands out.
> My vote goes to Original Route on Old Man of Stoer.
Same here. In England Botterill's Slab was a superb day out. Can't think of Welsh VS I've done that stands out.
In reply to Lizard:
Pah! It's not even the best VS in california. The Magician is better in the Needles. Id say some of the better Tuolumne big 5.7s and bold 5.6's would give it a run for its money as well.
Pah! It's not even the best VS in california. The Magician is better in the Needles. Id say some of the better Tuolumne big 5.7s and bold 5.6's would give it a run for its money as well.
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